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Grease monkey bros, gimme the lowdown on grease.
I have some motorex bike grease 2000 I'm running out of, and progold epx cycle grease bellows bottle, which is so hard to squeeze out, everytime i fear it'll burst out.
motorex white grease?
hardware store guy recommended 3in1 lithium (apparently wd40 low-cost brand)
what should I be looking for, for bike bearings grease?
inb4 ky etc.
pic somewhat related
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oops, sorry; meant for /bqg/
mods, please move
anyway, picrel
phil wood grease i like how it smells and its the most expensive
two undisputably undisputable arguments
Use what you got or can get. Supposedly lithium grease ages rubber faster so I don't use it in sensitive areas like suspension.
It's more important that the bearings are clean and packed with fresh grease then having phil wood grease or some other super omega expensive grease.
I have noticed if you live in a hot area grease can weep out of headsets.
So look for dirty spots underneath the headset or BB if a bike has been sitting, and it may need grease
I just just slap on some LM47 and it just works. Don't fall for the grease jew trying to sell you "specialized" greases for every application.
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So, been reading about the stuff, and takeaways so far are:
>lithium is not the actual lub, but the thickener
>some claim it actually potentiates galvanic corrosion rather than prevent it, though
>it's what's overwhelmingly used worldwide, across the board, though, and there's not much alternatives in the market, so
>it's getting expensive, thanks to muh e-brainwashing, and will only get worse, meaning
>there's a mad rush for alternatives, going on:
>bike grease 2000 is actually calcium based, not lithium
>"leet" stuff is an absolute joke, going for hundreds of €/kg; so you probably need a legal douche certificate to get it
Phil Wood is actually about the same price as motorex and other dedicated brands here: 80ish to 100€/kg
LM is about same price as brands above
Cheapest known brand I could find (other than random local brand-names that don't have any actual info available on the stuff) is the Petronas Tutela SP (picrel); it's for chassis (blade suspensions, cv joints and such), but apparently better(?) than ball bearing specific GP
At 10€/kg, at least it won't break the bank, so I'll either try that one next, or just keep going for the motorex.
yesh, it's actually 33€/kg on the same site as the petronas, here:
but since that's 3x the price of that one, I won't even bother
With "specialized" greases I meant shit like picrel. If it's a bearing you slap a decent bearing grease on it no matter where the bearing is.
I literally use the red bearing grease I got in an auction dirt cheap.
Before that I use the yellow stuff the company had before it shut down.
After both of these go out, and I somehow go through other stuff I will go to my local auto parts store and get a tub.
This will probably be in 1-2 decades.
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>237,50 €/kg
do you even mortgage?
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if only this wasn't unavailable (and wrong by an order of magnitude)...
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still 650 €/kg, judging by CK's 350g/l, but nevermind:
we have ourselves a winner...
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industrial maintenance here, we use the same grease for everything, cheap NLG2 Lithium grease. doesn't matter if the bearings are small or the size of my head. for slides and ways, joints and shafts all the same.

Only special stuff maybe gets Li grease with EP additives or Mos2 but then were talking about a few tons of weight on the bearing and >1K RPM. and then tose greases are from big company's like BP, Shell, Dow, Fuchs. and not from who the fuck is Chris king. (he probably buys it from the former company's)

For a bicycle the cheap stuff will work definitely, however industrial stuff all has zerk fittings you just putt new grease in with a grease gun every few weeks the big benefit is it pushes out dirty grease.
if i ever build a custom frame it would get some for the bottom braked.

btw a while ago a guy in a German bicycle forum said he works for a grease manufacturer, and that they collect all the leftover greases from the machines in a big tank and once a year they send everything through a blender and mix in some PTFE and bottle it as bike lube.
This. Cheap, available, good, what else do you need?
Didn't post because it's expensive but because these people are trying to sell a grease specific to headset bearings.

I should get into the biz of selling "bicycle specific" goods at a 10x markup.
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seems all the same to me
I don't think there's really a headset particularity that requires a specific grease.
>btw a while ago a guy in a German bicycle forum said he works for a grease manufacturer, and that they collect all the leftover greases from the machines in a big tank and once a year they send everything through a blender and mix in some PTFE and bottle it as bike lube.
If it's the same type of grease being mixed every time it makes sense, I don't think batch numbers etc really matter for bikes. I don't believe that it'd just be a random mix of greases, consistency has to be somewhat there and I don't think mixing inconsistent amounts of waste chemicals is exactly encouraged.

Plus the whole "I work in a grease factory, trust me bro" element.
Oh really?
Gravel specific grease & lube looks like an untapped goldmine, just dye it OD green/khaki or something and away you go
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that costs the same as picrel here
well, being CK, they're probably magical and bearings hand picked from the sacred bearing trees by elderly priests, and hand polished by virgin maids on their fertile period. maybe...
...so maybe the grease is made with spit from the bicycle gods
you need matching colors for best results. and void warranty if they aren't.
there was this guy who claimed an upscale restaurant he used to work for collected left over bottled wine from customers and resold it as house wine.
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If it's good enough for the Marines, it's good enough for me!

I believe you call that a jewish Cuvée.

I've always stayed away from marine grease because I assume it's a lot thicker and adds a bit more resistance. Does it last longer because of it's water resistance?
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my mum worked at a pub and the boss always had a glass he collected the dripping beer or the first foam from the spigot.

if someone ordered a Shandy or normal beer he would get half the drip glass half fresh beer.
I suppose for racing or club riding it would be better to have "faster" lube in hubs and the like. I use marine grease for my commuters and touring bikes and only notice that the grease stays fresher longer. I use it for seat posts and such on all of my bikes though, I really don't think it's that critical.
This whole thread is a joke.
Been working on bikes for years and haven’t finished my first tub which was 5€ lithium automobile grease. Must have fixed and sold 50 bikes.
Threads, bearings and brake axles use grease.
Oil for the rest.
every penny counts i guess
at least the resto guy was salvaging expensive bottles that probably weren't even half empty, and creating his own, well, "jewish cuvée"
no one's talking about oils though, but great that you that all along
>*wheel axles(?)
i use parktools antiseize because that's what i bought years ago when one seized; don't know if regular grease would do the job just as well, though
No one's talking about running out grease quickly and most people here aren't advocating for buying expensive ones. I don't get what you're on about.

Also what is a brake axle on a bike? You mean the wheel axle with a disc brake?
Read the thread. Some heavy autism itt.
I meant the pivot points of Cantis. Game changer.
Also grease the cables.
>Some heavy autism itt.
Autism on my 4chan? Say it ain't so.
If you have to save money on grease you have more pressing problems than grease
if you like to spend more money than you need, be my guest...
he's a masterrace chad; he uses grease on threads, not threadlock like inferior chuds
also wonder what's left for the oil...
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>wasting energy to shear grease.

oil goes into wheel bearings and bottom bracket. just re apply before every drive, also keeps the chain stays free from rust.

>sorry you snapped your spine slipping on my oil trail
it's indisputible, genius
>cottered cranks
>literal gas pipe
>chain case
>step through frame
"wasting energy" llama my sides
I'm pretty sure what you're pointing at in your pic is a grease nipple. Why would you go through the trouble oiling your bike before every ride for marginal performance gains?

>also keeps the chain stays free from rust
Your bike is already half rust
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pic is not my bike of course im to lazy to go in the garage to take a picture of a oilier.

but this thing is a oilier, with a little helmet to stop dust getting into it. a grease fitting would not work the grease would go into the tubes and not the bearing, the oil flows into the bearings.
I have seen older manuals recommending bone oil.
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same for coaster brakes with brass brake pads till the 60s, they need oil, grease would stick everything together and make it malfunction.
>"wasting energy"
>how many milliwatts?
>do you even wax the chain?
pros will try to save every milliwatt and gram they can, but even them gladly traded the extra drag and weight for the convenience of wider tires and disk brakes.
so don't snap yourself, because me, I'm 100% safe and comfy, here
yes, picture the smell and empty the wallet; the two quality defining parameters, there, Einstein.
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grease gun
you could (should) easily put grease in there for zero "wasted energy" and extra convenience, but whatever floats your... anchor (how much energy does it waste on weight alone?).
anyway, nice relic.
Sir that doesn't fit my bike and it looks more expensive to buy.
A simple square taper bb for BSA threading is damn cheap.

No, I am not drilling my frame for a zirc fitting.
I will just pop the sides and grease it if needed.
a grease gun wont fit on this since its for oil
here the manufactures manual from 1927
no i wont translate it for you but hint oel is oil
>vor jedem langen Gefälle gut durchgeölt werden
For those who can't read German that translates to oil before ever longer stretch going downhill

I'm sure it's a nice historical bike and all but at some point it's just too much to not be a pain in the ass.
>doesn't fit
make it fit; find an adapter or fabricate one.
>just following instructions
manufacturers also tell you to use oil on the chain, yet their teams all use wax now instead
my point is; there's no actual real technical impediment to using grease, so if it's a question of "purism", by all means, be my guest.
and then fill the tubes with grease.?
anyway you can also grease them while disassembled, as you would with cone hubs.
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where do you think the grease will go if you put a grease fitting here and pump grease in .

hint: not in the bearings before the whole frame is full of grease.
so grease would go into tubes, but oil doesn't?...
anyway, like I said, disassemble, grease, reassemble, or just plug the tubes and lube through ports.
btw, that looks like a standard bsa24 bb, for which there's millions of sealed bearing cups to choose from, from as low as 5 bucks (yes), to whatever you can afford and beyond.
I guess excess oil would drip out as opposed to grease. You could get a grease nipple to work if you use a cartridge bb and somehow adapt it in a way that grease gets fed into it. A cup and cone bb wouldn't contain the grease.
if grease has good consistency it will retain it (better than oil, for sure), but, like I said, that bb looks like a run-of-the-mill bsa24, for which there's countless sealed bearing cups available, for pretty much every crank standard possible; heck there's even bsa30 cups that'll fit there.
i still think we should put grease fittings on bike bearings.

on industrial stuff its just the standard thing no matter if sealed or not, if it spins at 2 rpm or 3k rpm if it is used for 1 hour a day or 24, if it carries no weight or tons, they come with grease fittings.

just gif it a squeeze of grease once a year and wipe off the dirty grease that comes out and you would never have to repack the bearing and it would last longer than the frame.
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my point exactly.
>it would last longer than the frame
Oy vey, bike bike doesn't like that
using a small tube with a nozzle is the best because you can apply it cleanly and fast.

grease guns also mostly kinda suck.

also pfte is basically like nuclear waste in how many centuries it lasts for and what kind of crazy shit like cause cancer it does.

but pfte bicycle specific fancy greases in little tubes with nozzles are the absolute king if you want to be fast.

just use a different big thing of grease with no pfte for threads and miscellaneous stuff and janky bikes.
chain waxing is the new thing for pro cycling teams.
besides muh milliseconds/watts gain, the main benefit for everyone else is chain won't get dirty like with chain lube.
In the wet it is ass though and costs way too much watts
haven't read anything to that effect, only that's it's high-maintenance, with suggestions to keep multiple chains ready, though none of
that matters for pro teams
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>A cup and cone bb wouldn't contain the grease.
Suntour did this ~30 years ago. Vented bolts, cross-drilled axle, extra seals.
The large seals go on the innermost axle shoulder, the medium ones go in the holes in the cups, the small ones go under the hex heads of the crank bolts.

New grease goes in the crank bolt w/ a flush type nozzle, old grease oozes out from around the a axle/cup seal. No ball bearing/spring in the bolt, it's mostly protected by the crank dust caps.
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Hubs w/ this system did have balls in the grease fittings.
You had to use a nozzle several inches long, and reach in from the opposite side through the spokes.
Based China
I use that same Motorex, just because it looks like that fuckin expensive Shimano Dura-Ace/"Special Grease".
>all purpose grease for jerking it
>high pressure grease for bearings
>red rubber grease for use around rubber seals
litterally all you need. buying some mega expensive niche use grease is retarded.
EVs will change the culture completely

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