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Not Your Average Bike Edition

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Previous thread >>1945971
>>
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Redpill me buying bikes made by Gravity and Motobecane on BikesDirect.com.

They're significantly cheaper than equivalent spec'ed bikes elsewhere. Why should or shouldn't I buy one?
>>
>>1947256
They aren't equivalent spec'd, they are mix and match bikes containing a brand name RD here and a brand name brifter there and the rest mystery meat

There's nothing super duper fucked up or wrong with BD bikes but they rub some people the wrong way with their "ultegra build (bottom bracket is ultegra), compare with $8000 parlee, motobecane champion yours for the low price $800 LIMITED TIME ORDER NOW" schtick because it's kinda dishonest if you don't know about bikes
>>
>>1947256
top brand bikes like from trek are better engineered for ride quality, accessory mounting points etc and retain their second hand value a lot better than no name or disreputable brand bikes. lots of outdated spec and chinesium on the cheaper bikesdirect bikes
>>
Why do people buy 2 or 3 by drivetrain bikes when 1 by 11/12 wide range drivetrains exist with over 500% gear ratio. 2-3 by drivetrains are heavier, have higher long term costs, and have more points off failure.
>>
>>1947282
why do you care what other people buy? let people enjoy things
>>
>>1947280
This is a bunch of vague and mostly wrong nonsense. Mounting points? Not every bike is a Trek 520. There might be something to be said for resale value but honestly who tf buys a bike for its resale value.

It's low spec bikes for low spec prices spiced up with a bit of PT Barnum sleaze but "disreputable" is a bit extreme, some shitty motobecane misrepresented as a substitute for a Domane is still probably a better bike than an actual BSO from walmart or amazon. Like the disc brakes on the pictured bike, while dogshit by any reasonable standard, are still technically "name brand". I wouldn't touch them with a flaming turdstick but I've seen worse on more expensive bikes from "real" brands.

All I'm saying is considering the competition at that price point you could do worse, but you do need to be picky and expect to replace a few things, as you should be with just about any new bike, even a good one.
>>
>>1947283
I'm asking why. Is there some hidden advantage that I'm not understanding? The only benefit I can see is having 20 or 30 gears gives you smaller jumps between gears at the cost of complexity, weight, cost, and reliability.
>>
>>1947282
Because to achieve that wide gear ratio you have to put up with shit like-
-Huge jumps between cogs
-Ridiculously overweight cassettes causing chain whiplash
-Still a lower gear range than with a 2x

Muh long term costs would be a better argument if you were wondering why $500 commuter bikes come in 2x or 3x and I'd agree with you therer, but let's be honest here we're talking about enthusiast bikes spec'd with $1000+ groupsets, and at that level you'd do better to shave costs by just buying shittier tires.
>>
>>1947287
show me a bike with 20 or 30 gears please
>>
>>1947291
Nta but it was obviously proffered as a range
Just to spite you I will build bikes at 20 and 30 speeds.
>>
so a bolt came out of my front crankset, it's on a 90s MTB and now the lowest front gear is bent to shit and unusable (the hole the bolt came out of is stripped as well), is it easy/economical to replace just the front gears or the entire transmission or is it even worth it with a bike I got for 75 bucks. (good frame but it's nothing special) like should I just leave it and never use the low gear and wait till I can afford a new bike/better used bike?
>>
>>1947256
I'd check all the bearings for grease and rims for true and spokes for tension. a bike shop checks for this stuff but the BD assembly shipped to you should be considered suspect like a Walmart bso.
probably needs brake and shifter tuning, too. I'm just going by things I've heard about their bikes, general internet heresay.
>>
>>1947293
Loles I just called you a retard for not buying an angle grinder
The gear you are referring to is the highest not lowest.
A new bb is like 25 bucks and you can just find some shitty cranks to replace
Also bikes do not have transmissions (or crankshafts) generally just fyi
You can ride on it to loosen it from the spindle.
If it's worth it is up to you. Like how retards pay someone to replace brake pads on their cars for hundreds of dollars when its easier than bicycle brakes. It's worth just paying money because they are retards. Are you retarded? If so just throw money at some one or something
>>
>>1947291
?
every 90s mtb was 3x7, that's 21 right there
>>
>>1947297
>Loles I just called you a retard for not buying an angle grinder
no you didnt, different poster, take meds.
>The gear you are referring to is the highest not lowest.
ok sure, whatever, the smallest one.
>Also bikes do not have transmissions (or crankshafts) generally just fyi
dont have to be a pedantic fag about it. I never even said crankshaft, it is a type of transmission.
>If it's worth it is up to you. Like how retards pay someone to replace brake pads on their cars for hundreds of dollars when its easier than bicycle brakes. It's worth just paying money because they are retards. Are you retarded? If so just throw money at some one or something
ok i'll wait for another poster to tell me about the process instead, faggot.
>>
>>1947297
nta but what is wrong with you?
>>
>>1947291
There are lots of bikes with 2/3 in the front and 10 in the back.
>>
>>1947303
that's 30 speeds but 13 gears on the bike. i want to see a bike with 20 or 30 gears on it.
>>
>>1947297
>ride around on boltless cranks to loosen them from the spindle
lol no, you dumb fuck, no
>>
gonna try to get some cheap steel nitto b123 handlebars on an ebay auction, wish me luck guys
>>
>>1947282
Constant cadence fags shun the 1x and don't want to get in trouble with their pace line butt buddies.
>>
I think I'm sold on getting a high grade steel bike for general city riding, dirt roads, and gravel. Is high end steel really worth it or are the people shilling it just contrarian hipsters?

What's the difference between 520 and 853 Reynolds? Is it worth paying several hundreds of dollars more?
>>
>>1947320
There was an experiment done years ago where some bike magazine commissioned a bunch of identical bikes in different tubings. A bunch of experienced riders could not tell the difference. If you're looking at different builds/geometries, even more reason to completely ignore the tubing.
>>
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2016 Crux E5X1

$1300

Excellent condition, how out of pocket is this price? It seems high, but what would be a good deal? The bike looks dreamy and in good condition.

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/crux-e5-x1/p/107049?color=195798-107049


54cm, I'm 5'11" but as I understand it cyclocross bikes run larger. Plus I have a short torso.
>>
>>1947320
ride a bike and find out for yourself, but in my opinion yes
and yes 853 is worth several hundred more if you actually plan to ride often, the difference is vast
>>
>>1947320
>>1947321
here's the test: https://files.catbox.moe/ckpkm8.pdf
>>
>>1947320
Exotic alloys are truly nice but >>1947321 is right, geometry and design is way more important than frame material.
>>
>>1947299
>>1947300
>>>/diy/2673230
Ooooh I ass umed. Cry about it faggots
Also what do you even need to know about the process ?? It is up to you to decide it it's worth it. If you have an ounce of mechanical capacity and like the bike then yes. If you don't like the bike then no. It's so god damn simple, what do you need your hand held for ?
>>1947311
Yes, you dumb nigger, yes. Lrn2wrench faggot
Come up with a better idea than that or angle grinder
Inb4 dubya dee fordee and watch paint dry lol
>>1947312
Good luck anon
>>1947326
Pls elaborate/nutshell I don't want to click litterbox
>>
Imagine if reynolds never survived brexit and all our tubes were simply “0.9 - 0.7 - 0.9 chromoly” from asia without any marketing or fancy model names
>>
>>1947335
That is currently the situation though, everyone’s using their own “special blend” tubes these days
>>
>>1947334
it's called a crank puller you pathetic welfare retard
>>
>>1947327
this just times out for me.
anyone else?
>>
>>1947351
not defending him because he's an asshole, but the guy said he stripped the threads. then again maybe he meant he stripped the chainring bolt threads, in which case yes, he needs a crank puller
>>
>>1947282
11-12s 2x or 3x drivetrains have 15-20+ effective gears
that's more than 11-12 isn't it?

they also get less chain wear because of a straighter chain line

the main benefit of a 1x is convenience/ease of use, it isn't actually better
>>
>>1947320
all steel used in bikes is very similar except for ultra low-end pot metal and high end shit from the 90s that was way too hard and tended to crack
if you commission a custom frame just tell the builder how you want, they will know which steel to use
>>
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my front derailleur is feeling a little bit grabby so going to clean and lube the cables and hope it fixes it before I readjust everything. Are bike cables anything special or can I go at it like motorcycle ones, so brake cleaner to flush any gunk out then spray some lube like pic attached down the tube
>>
>>1947355
you just buy a shitty chinese crank puller and glue the bottom part in to the fucked up threads, the top part will still move and operate correctly. $3.21 with free shipping on aliexpress
>>
>>1947351
>Pathetic welfare retard
Project harder, smoke moar copium and lrn2read
>>1947364
You haven't done this because it doesn't work and if it did it would be a retarded solution to a simple problem. Are you a future engineer by any chance ?
>>
>>1947362
Don't forget to clean the shifter itself
Can't speak to any "adhesive lubricant" I use plain oil/lube
>>
>>1947368
i've done it and it works, there's no reason why it wouldn't
you don't have to be such a raging cunt every time you speak
this thread is for helping people not sperging out
>>
I've never used road/dropper bars. Why do they exist and why would someone prefer them over flatbars?
>>
>>1947383
Personal preference. They are a do anything bar I guess, in the hoods for most rides, treat it like flats and grab the straight section in the middle for cruising or go full tuck on the drops for downhills. Its also what I've been using for the last 10 years so very biased towards them.
>>
>>1947383
dropper post, drop bars

I prefer drop bars because it gives me different positions to ride in. I feel trapped on flat bars.
>>
>>1947383
it's a completely different feel. for one, long term, your arms should not be rotated the way flat bars force them to be, it will cause wrist pain. having your arms rotated to be closer to the same angle they would be if they were resting at your side allows you to ride for a lot longer with a lot less stress put on your body. flat bars are great for situations where you need to force the bike to go a certain way despite the terrain, which is common off road, but not common at all when you're riding on roads. there are other alternatives that give you better hand positions for longer term road riding too, like bullhorn or pursuit bars
>>
>>1947362
I don't use anything special, I just work lube into the ends of the housing by turning the bike so the end is up, then squirt it in while working the lever. then the other end.
also lube all the pivots on the derailleur.
>>
>>1947377
Bullshit, there are a myriad of reasons it won't work. Glue doesn't stick to metal and glue that does literally costs more than an angle grinder let alone the one use chink puller. Plus one would have to let the glue cure, clean the surface so it might adhere, and just hope it doesnt break removing a seized crankarm. you might as well suggest taping torn clothing. Angle grinder just werks. You're being an obstinate fag about your retarded idea and your widdle feewings are hurted about it. Your idea sucks and is unhelpful compared to a REAL and RELIABLE solution. Try crying, gluesniffer
>>1947383
They exist to have multiple positions
Much as how a butterfly has the wings that it may.
I prefer flat/riser bars with inner and/or outer barends so far. Also biased.
>>
>>1947383
multiple hand positions instead of just one. others have explained what they do but also if you're climbing or just mashing hard out of the saddle, you can grab the bottom ends of the drops and it's really stable and easy to pull against.
>>
on the topic, what is the point of flared drop bars? Picked up a bike with them and they just feel wrong
>>
>>1947391
Fuck, you're just shit posting now
Think for you request denied
>>
>>1947389
cope and seethe my autistic friend, cope and seethe
>>
>>1947393
>S-s-stop flaming dur dur cos I had a rarted idea!!1!111
Also (You):
>Y-youre autistic!!111!1!
Lmao faggot double nigger at least I'm not retarded
Verification not required
>>
>>1947389
>he doesn't keep jb weld on hand at all times
ngmi
>>
>>1947394
cope and seethe some more
>>
>>1947392
I was being genuine. After riding a couple hundred km on it I just dont understand why you would want the flare, it just makes everything feel off. Is there something I'm or is this just a dumb new trend?
>>
>>1947395
I don't use jbweld for anything because I'm not a notools sóy guzzling fagbot
Verification not required
>>
>>1947399
you kinda sound like a onions guzzling fagbot
>vErIfIcAtIoN nOt ReQuIrEd
>>
>>1947400
Ok halfwit nigger
>>1947398
Anything is a dumb new trend. Flared drops included. It's nice to have the wider posture maybe and different bars work differently on different bikes and setups. If you're spending a lot of time in the saddle I'd recommend something more parallel to the frame but different strokes for different folks. As I said earlier retards just throw money so make of it what you will..
>>
>>1947402
flared drops aren't new halfwit nigger
>>
>>1947404
Wipe my cum off your mouth bitch
>>
Why does my shit skip and stutter on the gears when shifting?
>>
>>1947415
if the adjustments are all correct then start looking for worn components. Might be time for a new chain or cassette.
>>
>>1947410
what an incredibly gay thing to say
we talk about bikes here, take your gay sexual fantasies to another board or get b&
>>
>>1947416
What would some of the adjustments be?
>>
>>1947415
cable tension most likely. or a bent derailleur hanger. better off looking it up on youtube than asking 4chan to explain the process.
>>
>>1947383
like the last guy said you get extra leverage in the drops for when you need to sprint to make a green light or something. and hoods/drops looks and feels cooler.
>>
>>1947415
if everything else is ok all it needs is the barrel adjuster to be turned towards the gear it's not catching. only give a half turn then check, repeat.
the other adjustments are the limit screws which set how far the derailleur moves inboard and outward so you don't throw the chain. if they're really off it could affect not just the end gears but even the ones next to them.

could also be:
shifter not working - gummed up, no oil, broken, etc
cable not moving freely
derailleur not moving freely
gearteeth worn
chain worn or seized up
>>
>>1947427
and also what other anon said here >>1947424
>>
>>1947383
Just try a bike with them. If you do road work or want to get more aero for descents/headwinds you will see the positive.
I love them for climbing. The drops being a neutral grip are just awesome.

I prefer flatbars if I need precise control, and I prefer shifting on flat bars.
>>
>>1947220
what if i got a colnago master x lite frame and put sram rival 1 on it instead of campy? would it burst into flame immediately?
>>
>>1947322
>1x 40T crank, 11-32T cassette
Are you going to use it for cyclocross?
>>
>>1947433
It might protest a little but once you put the power down it will be fine.
>>
>>1947434
Nah it just seems like a sick, light, disc brake bike which is what I want
>>
>>1947417
>I'm a retard that doesn't know how to use tools
We know faggot. Go back to redit with the rest of your kind little bitch.
I also did not say flared drops are new. Lrn2read
>>1947433
Dead wops will roll
>>
>>1947436
CX bikes have short wheelbase and are very responsive to handling but also very twitchy. It's optimized for tight turns in mud not long distance cycling.
>>
>>1947428
>>1947427

thanks anons
>>
>>1947437
take your meds
>>
>>1947437
god damn you're still seething lol how pathetic
>>
>>1947442
>>1947443
Samefag
Inb4 fake and gay screenshot of one (You)
Keep sucking my cock little bitch you obviously love being my little incompetent, cityslicking, boot licking, rentoid jerk off wagie with no real skills or contributions to the world. Glutton for pain you are. The kind of failure that ruins his car tires with fix a flat spray. The kind of stubborn stunted retard that suggests using "glue" to stick threads on a one use tool bought straight from chinks as if it isn't a laughably retarded idea. Make a jbweld dildo and fuck yourself bitchboi. Don't post advice anywhere, you don't know what the fuck you're talking about. All you know how to do is suck cock and burn money. Ywnbaw though so may as well make a noose out of glue rope and hang yourself in your little glue apartment because it's not like you were going anywhere greater.
Make a little jbweld plane and take the fuck off
Or make a little jbweld train and ride off a cliff
Shit, put glue in your second hand kia shitpile and see where that takes you
L m f a o
>>
>>1947446
tldr never gonna stop seething lmfao
>>
>>1947446
Holy shit you're a whiny faggot. I'd suggest removing yourself from the gene pool by force but I don't think we ever have to worry about you reproducing, what with all the limp wristed faggotry and womanly bitching.
>>
Hate me cos ya ain't me. I buy tools to reuse because that's what people who can fix things do. Limp wristed faggots buy LE EXXXTRA HARD PLAYDOUGH PRODUCT from the checkout shelf because they are gay plebbitbrain retards. I'm just making the point that there is a real way to fix things; dumb gullible faggots try to cheat repairing in a knowably superior manner because they don't know any better and spread their retarded ideas. Pure cancer. Not my fault the closest thing you had to a father was chuck norris jokes
Do better, learn and admit glue is retardtier advice.
The right way to remove a seized taper crankarm that a traditional tool fails to remove and strips is to cut it. It's the least likely way to damage one's bicycle.
You can side track all you like but my suggested method stands and remains as the best way. You can try a torch and hammer first and tap the crank, or pickle fork/separator wedge between the cup, you can even vice the arm and punch the spindle after threading a bolt/nut, but the most guaranteed way is to cut it off.
An angle grinder costs less, is far more useful, and is overall a better solution than your gaydough. Dilate and stop giving bad advice
Again. You don't know what the fuck you're talking about.
>>
I also jbweld tools into seized bolts it’s standard practice
>>
>>1947456
Your mom's carport isn't the standard sweaty
>>
>>1947454
tldr
you really need to learn how to just let things go and stop being so butthurt
>>
>>1947463
He should angle grind his worries off
>>
Brainless notools fagtard projection #1947463 duly noted and disregarded.
Git gud.
I will also note that with regard to standard practice, easing the seize between arm and spindle by riding it is effective, easy, and FREE.
Buy and learn to use angle grinders kids, don't be like this useless dumb bitch
>>1947465
... It is really soothing. It cuts anything and everything, even the tension in a room. I love my 9.99USD Warrior
>>
>>1947466
angle grind your throat for us
>>
I’ve considered everything that’s going on here and I’ve concluded that I’ll just never get myself into a situation where I’ve let a desirable part get seized
>>
>>1947469
so you're going to buy chromoly cranks so your threads won't get stripped like they do so easily with aluminum cranks?
>>
>>1947470
No I’m gonna keep buying $100 SRAM DUB(tm) 28.99mm spindle cranks and use a torque wrench for the 52Nm bolt
>>
>>1947454
using an angle grinder isn't normal except maybe for dumpster dive type of bikes. if you're not a poorfag you can just use external bearing cranks and install them properly with grease and the right torque spec
>>
this is what happens when you listen to boomers >>>/diy/2674080
>>
>>1947398
a slight flare on a narrower handlebar is normal so that you can be more narrow in the aero hoods position while keeping leverage in the drops for sprinting and cornering. a wider flare is gravel larping as mountain bike retardation
>>
Seat post use one kind of screw, the same as the handlebar and stem, the same as wheel axles but somehow the saddle use another. Fuck syncros. Can't we have some standards here ?
>>
>>1947334
>hey guys, how do I do this?
>Wow you don't know how to do this? You should fucking learn how to do this
>No I won't tell you

Why do you come here?

>>1947293
Anon if you're talking about the chainring bolts, like in picrel, it should be easy to drill out the old one and take the damaged chainring off. For replacing, id either set the front derailleur low limit to prevent shifting of you have a grip shifter. Or id buy a new 2x front shifter and recable it
>>
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>>1947438
I'm not sure what question you're answering.

I already know I want a gravel/cx type bike. Just want to know if the price is worth it.

I already have a heavy steel cx bike and I rip it around the city. But it's a bit big and heavy.
>>
>>1947496
>Just want to know if the price is worth it.
That's entirely up to you, your budget and how much you want the bike, now isn't it?
>>
>>1947322
looks like hy/rd or something, I would avoid. hydro discs or cable rims, not that frankenshit.
>>
>>1947446
>>1947454
singlehandedly ruining /n/
I want you to start larping as RJ the Bike Guy. anytime you're about to reply to a post, just think, what would RJ the Bike Guy do? always remember, WWRJtBGD
>>
>>1947508
he's annoying but I'd gladly take 3 more of him and get rid of the urbanists, at least he doesn't seem to be spamming the catalog
>>
>>1947524
keep advocating the lesser of two evils and you'll find yourself in the time out corner for 15 minutes
>>
I am looking to change a drive on my bike from 2x9 to 2x11. I am considering LTWOO R9.
The thing is that all the aliexpress offerings have cassettes that go only up to 32 teeth. On their website, it says that the max Chain wrap capacity is 37T. Does it mean it will work with an 11-34T cassette?
>>
>>1947527
yes
>>
>>1947526
better than 30 minutes I guess
>>
>>1947468
U first butthurt tard
>>1947469
Good idea
>>1947482
>Every bike that isn't my pretentious hipster famobile is dumpster trash
Whatever. Every week I volunteer my time to fix and build other people's bikes of all kinds. It works. I have never had to angle grind cranks that I installed. I'm angle grinding cranks off of bikes that someone else built. None of those people give a fuck to buy external bbs and also external bbs mess with chain lines and aren't even right for every bike. You don't understand the context.
>>1947495
The question was the worth of installing new hardware. Which is highly personal.
>>1947508
Lmao ecelebs rent free
Go to plebbit faglord
>>
>>1947554
so you're wrenching on other people's bike on basically an industrial scale, your advice that everyone and their mother should own an angle grinder is fucking bullshit
>>
I lose pressiom in my rear tire mid ride, the pressure drop to a point where it noticeable but then stop leaking and stabilize. Any idea on what's happening? I mean if there is a leak the tire will eventually go flat but never does.
>>
>>1947446
>wall of text
holy shit you are mad
>>
>>1947555
Retard I bought mine for 9.99 at harbor freight and have used it many times for years. I'm supplying context to support my point. I know what works best, I've tried it all. My first suggestion was to ride on it to loosen it, and if that fails then angle grinder. Tried and true methods, jewgle it; I am right.
It's a tiny investment for a tool that can do so many things. If someone has a mechanical inclination and a will to fix and build it's a must have tool.
Contrast that with the dumbfucks who said not to ride on cranks to loosen them, or to buy a bunch of one time use materials to MAYBE remove ONE crankarm after waiting a week for supplies and process.
Do you buy a new little hobo stove to cook your cans of beans on every time you want a meal ? No ? Same concept.
I'm giving good advice; you're just a notools ignoramus that doesn't know what you're talking about
>>
>>1947557
sealant clotted in the hole, this is normal
>>
>>1947561
the cheapest one is $14.99 now and it's underpowered for any more serious work, better ones cost $100+. you can very easily cut through aluminium with a hacksaw.
>>
and a heat gun can be used to heat weld TPU tubes, a fucking blowtorch is useless for most people who don't work on hobo trash bikes
>>
>>1947581
The 14.99 one goes on sale very frequently for 9.99
5 dollars is chump change
I've used it for plenty serious enough work and it's still faster and more versatile than a hacksaw
We are just talking about bare bones minimum cheap effective and reliable
Not nice Bosch angle grinders for high end fabrication. You can spend retarded money for any tools. Your points are irrelevant.
>>1947582
A fag like you probably only uses a hair dryer anyway.
>>
>>1947585
you're probably the autist who uses a torch for heat shrink tubing and refuses to buy a heat gun, but you keep shilling angle grinders lol
>>
>>1947585
>>1947589
U 2 gon fuk or naw?
>>
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people get mixed results with glue on patches for TPU inner tubes. heat welding might be a better option. but these days you can get chinese TPU tubes for just a few bucks each and you should rarely get punctures if your tires are of good quality and condition, and if you know how to mount tires properly and keep them inflated to the right pressure etc, so perhaps you might as well just replace the entire inner tube once in a while and not have to worry about any potential slow leaks or degradation over time.
>>
these are cheap and available in 45/65/85mm stem lengths (actually available, not just placeholders in listings). the length refers to just the black plastic part of the stem so 45mm is about equivalent to 48mm in terms of how butyl tubes are usually measured, so it can be used comfortably with at least 32mm deep rims with most pumps. i reinforced the point where the stem attaches to the tube with charcoal powder (from charred willow sticks, the type used for art drawings) and cyanoacrylate glue because an anon mentioned that he had a leak so he pulled off the stem and glued it back on with gorilla brand super glue.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZpGV9soTlU
>>
>>1947595
thanks for sharing this.
looks like the screen part could repair carbon fiber
>>
Not wanting to shit on cycling. Its awesome and I wont stop. But through the last few years of exclusively cycling and sometimes walking and refusing all forms of motorised transport, it seems I have developed PFPS that is much better than it was at its worst but aleays present and incredibly tight quads it seems. Trying to stretch my quads just gives me a lot of pain or discomfort in the knees. I'm not able to move in some ways anymore. What do to get the quads healthy and nor only strong and fatigue resistant ?
>>
>>1947298
I think he means DISTINCT and USEABLE gears. Not no. of chainrings multiplied by no. of cogs, disregarding how much or little sense it makes.
>>
Total bike newbie here: I'm looking to upgrade my wheels and bump up to a 7-speed on an '85 Raleigh Super Course 12-speed, but it looks like all the modern wheels use a cassette vs old freewheel. Will that fuck anything up if I get a modern wheelset and gear?
>>
>>1947605
you should probably see a PT about that instead of asking the internet, but a lot of problems can be solved with boring stability exercises of the sort you see women doing all the time. kettlebell squats on an inverted bosu ball, step downs, single leg squats, planks, and stuff like that. basically your problem could be that you've overtrained your quads and everything else is struggling to support them and you need intensive training on all the small muscles you've ignored for years
>>
>>1947647
Assuming it's a steel frame, the native rear hub spacing will be 126mm, which is close enough to the modern 130mm spacing that you can simply squeeze in a modern road wheel without any complications. You can use any 7 or 8 speed cassette with your original 6 speed drivetrain in friction mode (assuming it even has an indexed option) as long as the largest sprocket isn't too big for your derailer to handle.
>>
>>1947391
It's ultimately a matter of preference, a lot of people find the flared shape comfortable, especially when riding in the drops offroad. Note there's a lot of variation between bars, it may be that the bars you're trying now just have too much flare for the way you like to hold your bars.
>>
>>1947681
what he said. if you want a big sprocket for easy hill climbs and your (presumably) short-cage derailleur can't fit around it (I think SC maxes out at 32 tooth) you can get a long cage derailleur. not especially difficult.
>>
>>1947691
dammit, meant for
>>1947647
>>
>>1947683
It is a steel frame, yes, and it runs downtube friction shifters so I'm imagining it wouldn't be an issue if the spacing works. So I'd need a new cassette and wheels, sounds like?
>>
>>1947696
ya. velomine has good prices for wheels
>>
>>1947605
Go see a PT and next time don't do 1 thing only for exercise.
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>>1947291
i suspect a 2x11 could be pretty close if you have a large enough spread in the front chainring.
Otherwise getting an internal rear drive hub would help a ton.
as a 2x and 3x enthusiast it's worth having the FD to get huge gear changes, and microshift makes 8 speed 12-46 rear cassettes now.
>>
Planning on replacing the default bottom bracket that doesn't even have a name, just the 68mm 127mm size on it. Will shimano 122.5mm fit?
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>>1947737
The frame shell width and spindle length are two independent numbers. You'll need to stick to a 68mm wide BB for this frame regardless of anything else, but the spindle length depends on the crankset you're going to install. If you're not changing cranksets then you do need to stick to 127mm, otherwise the crankset will bottom out against the frame/chainstays if you try to install on it on a too-short spindle.

>>1947282
It really depends on the kind of riding you're doing and also personal preference. I own bikes with all those drivetrains and have ridden older bikes extensively and I have strong preference for closely spaced cassettes for anything that isn't technical trail riding. I don't mind a wide 1x12 for mountain biking because being able to keep your gear ratio/cadence dialed just isn't very important when you're on a trail and shifting your body weight around the bike a lot. But on pavement it does make a big difference for efficiency to be able to get into the exact ratio you want, and I find that same 1x12 is a little frustrating to use when I have to ride on the road to get between trail segments since I'm so accustomed to having that with road and gravel bikes. I would actually prefer to have a 3x8 drivetrain with a tight cassette over a 1x12 for road use, I had that on my do-everything bike for years and years and its was both pleasant to ride and had great range.
>>
>>1947743
I did replace the crankset too, and the left crank so far is like 5mm further than the previous one used to be, while the chainring side fits good
>>
>>1947744
Oh, it says online that BB-UN26 square, 122.5 mm axle is a recommended BB for that crankset, oh well
>>
road bike i just bought has a near silent freehub, how do i make it loud? i dont want to put a bell on it and i find freewheeling to be loud enough to give pedestrians warning.
pretty sure the bloke i picked it up from mentioned something about having just greased the hub but i wasnt paying attention
>>
>>1947752
Trying to pass a 12 year old meme off as a genuine question, here of all places? Go to reddit youll get a rise off of them for sure
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>>1947753
I'm barely getting into cycling. Its a legitimate question faggot
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>>1947754
turn the dial towards the "loud" side
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>>1947756
do i just need to remove the cassette to get to it?
>>
>>1947757
That pro sounding loud click you want is only possible when the freehub resonates against a carbon frame. So you can keep the cassette, just swap the frame for carbon and youll be golden
>>
>>1947758
I'm not that dumb, my shit steel frame bike does it fine. If the wheels werent disc brake on this new one i would just trade wheels
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>>1947752
The noise any freehub makes is a function of its design (typically the number of pawls and/or ratchet stops). For most freehubs you can make them a little quieter by adding thicker grease or make them a little louder by using less grease. But too much or too little grease will result in faster wear, so do this at your own risk.
>>
I have a 27 speed road bike. Is it bad I mainly ride in the middle gear on the front and the top 3-4 gears in the rear? City is mainly flat
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>>1947768
only completely crossed over on either extreme is bad and even there I think recent tests have show no significant increased wear from it. if it doesnt rub then feel free to ride however you want, worst case you might lose some watts from sub optimal gear combinations but who really cares
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>>1947768
It's fine. Running the fastest/smallest gears in the back is actually nice since those tend to be replaceable compared to the larger(slower) gears in the back.
>>1947752
open it up, remove grease and run some light machine oil/tool oil/etc.

Yes, greasing the hub especially with lots of grease will quiet it down. Older road bikes tend to be quiet as well. More modern stuff is louder.
>>
>>1947752
Open it, clean it out with gas / mineral spirits / ether whatever.
Put it back together and run it dry like a moron. Replace when worn or rusted.
Little hint: Loud freewheeling is a sign or poor quality, cheap build and neglected maintenance. It's also embarassing. You have vocal chords for communication. Roll up and say 'excuse me mind me passing ?'
>>
>>1947797
but i like the sound and thats what matters to me.
>>
>>1947752
>assuming pedestrians will pay enough attention to their surroundings to discern the sound of your bike coming up behind them
how naive
>>
>>1947797
>stupid contrarian opinion with no understanding just for the sake of disagreeing with the masses
Yeah, haha, me too.
>>
I went from MTB style tires to some extremely skinny ones. And already on the 2nd set of tubes for the new ones
The MTBs had to be repressurized about once 1-2 months. The stock tubes had to be repressurized once a week, and the replacement every 2-3 weeks.

Is there a way to stop them from leaking so I can just leave them at a reasonable hardness and maybe repressurize in spring?
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>>1947804
Disliking loud freehubs is not contrarian at all. I've never met anyone who wants that shit except for gearhead consoomers. They are gaudy as fuck.
>>
>>1947804
he's right, loud freewheels are generally shitty freewheels. "the masses" are the ones using our vocal cords and bells to alert pedestrians of our presence and not assuming the idiots are going to hear your freewheel and react appropriately. it sounds like the opinion of someone who doesn't ride, someone who doesn't actually have to deal with these people on a daily basis.
>>
>>1947817
>Is there a way to stop them from leaking
not really, no. you can slow it down but you can't stop it.
>>
>>1947804
I do not care about your collective, hivemind, democracy and other degeneracy where you're aiming to deduct legitimacy of the argument from the number of fools that agree.
Besides that, like I've stated, a good quality hub has always been a silent one. It might be true that, thanks to morons, there is a shift in the market where manufacturers start producing otherwise good freehubs that are noisy by design.
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>>1947821
blame p*rtlanders, they are idiots and the entire state of or*g*n should be MIRVed
>>
>>1947817
>>1947820
That begs the second question, what is the best practice for slowing it down?
Smaller rims and ebike tires?
Exotic fluids?
>>
Will an 18mm internal width wheel fit on a bike that originally had 700x25c wheels?
>>
>>1947825
why wouldn't it?
>>
>>1947825
yes
>>
>>1947825
Do you mean the bike in question came with 700x25 tires and you're looking to fit a 18mm rim ? In that case certainly. And the original tire width would even still be in the recommended range for the rim.
Now if your old rim was 25mm wide you would have been running tires 40mm and up, again provided you were sticking to recommended ranges. In that case I do not see why you would want to convert to a rim as slim, it wouldn't be the kind of bike. But sure you could even run 40mm and up tires on the 18mm rim.
>>
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>>1947501
Yes, anon, that is all part of it, but I'm asking if >>1947322, priced at $1300, is a good price. Just looking for opinions from other anons, I've never owned a bike later than 2010 or one with hydro disc brakes.

>>1947504
It's full hydro but why are you people so fucking neurotic about disc brakes
>>
where do you guys keep your locks (U and chain) when riding
>>
>>1947850
in my panniers
>>
>>1947835
nta but I wouldn't call that a good deal
>>
>>1947850
cheap cable lock tightly spiraled around the top tube so the lock's rubbery coating keeps it from moving or making any sound, if i bring a lock at all. most of the time i don't because i have no intention of getting off my bike.
>>
>>1947824
I overpressurize the tire, or just have a nice standing pump and lift weights so it's easy to repressurize.
>>1947850
I don't trust people
>>
I might be retarded but I swear my ancient shimano XT v-brakes work better then these random promax mechanical disk brakes (160mm) that came on a bike.

Is it just the shitty chinese design? I am 90% sure avid bb7's I used on a different bike were solid. Where as these promaxes are just actual garbage.

Anyone have experience with shitty mechanical disk brakes? Thinking about getting a set of magura ct4's off jenson for a good price.
>>
>>1947867
fuck me, I spend all my waking hours warning people about mech dicks and I still see shit like this

and yea promax are no good but bb7s aren't great either. even the 'best' mech dicks are mediocre. go full hydro or stick with legacy breaks

I tried to warn you /n/
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>>1947869
nobody cares about your "i told you so" bs
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>>1947869
I mean it was a DJ bike from 2013 so I wonder if the front brake was a legal thing or what.
Rear shimano unbranded literally brakes harder then the front.... which is a first.
The bike has had some dubious parts selection like a shitty bb and kinda weak rims but I blame my weight for those issues.
I was mainly wondering what other's peoples experience with mech disks were.
>>
Can someone find a road bike off Craigslist / Facebook marketplace for me idk what to look for

6’2 in the Atlanta area
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>>1947874
wrong thread, go here >>1941652 and provide budget
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>>1947220
thoughts on strapping milk crate onto your rear rack?
too trashy or good functionality?
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>>1947850
I Bungie-cord it flat on my rear rack
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>>1947883
It's timeless
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>>1947353
they're having ddos attach apparently
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>>1947867
there are nicer mechanical and cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes on aliexpress these days, some of them cost hundreds but they're good enough to put on high end road bikes
>>
>>1947768
there's nothing wrong with it. it's sort of annoying that you're only going to wear out less than half the gears on the cassette when you need to replace it.
you could shave weight and make something better suited to you and "nicer" if you switched to a double and a 7 speed cassette with tighter range. or even a wheel with a smaller freehub with 5 or 6 on it but that's kind of a lot of work and money to intentionally gimp your bike but you might enjoy it?
>>
>>1947896
* I guess a 5 or 6 would be a freewheel at that point so: weird. but it could be done if you wanted to get autistic about only having useful gears.
>>
>>1947896
Interesting. Yeah i effectively only use about 3 or 4 gears I guess. I can’t imagine a scenario where anyone would use all 27, unless they’re climbing mountains or something
>>
my friend told me in passing that dish soap with water is the best bike cleaner for the cost, thoughts? any areas to avoid?
>>
>>1947883
too trashy for me, get a wire basket or a sanded and properly finished wooden crate.
>>
>>1947953
it's bad for the paint job, same reason you aren't supposed to use dish soap for your car. even though it's soft on your hands it's harsh on the paint. if you're too poor to afford auto soap then just use water.
>>
>>1947953
correct.

>>1947973
never heard of this.
>>
>>1947973
>>1947953

in the Park Tool cleaning video, mustache man uses dish soap
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>>1947977
argument from authority doesn't mean it's the best thing
frequent use of dish soap will cause your paint and gloss to dull and fade much faster
believe me or don't, i don't care, it's your bike not mine lol
>>
how do i stop spending all my money on bike parts?
>>
>>1947983
is that a bad thing?
>>
>>1947984
yes i need money for bills and food too
>>
>>1947983
Sell your bikes
>>
>>1947983
stop riding

or cap the amount of purchases/cost you do a month
>>
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>>1948004
>Sell your bikes
>>1948006
>stop riding
>>
>>1947976
>>1947977
for some reason endurance athletes and bikeniggers have brain damage. dish soap is for cleaning your dishes, for example if you wash your hands with dish soap too often you will fuck up your skin. there are more suitable products like car wash shampoo for paint and citrus degreaser for more heavy duty cleaning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZH2Fe1m1QM
https://www.detailingwiki.org/washing/what-is-a-shampoo/
>>
>>1947220
what's the best, no-nonsense mountainbike I can buy for 1000€?
I own a Giant Revolt at the moment but I want to hit some trails as well and want to buy a mtb now
>>
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this is 4 euros for 500ml in my country, dilute 10:1 or use undiluted for heavy grease removal, or put 5ml in 10 liters of water (2000:1 dilution) for cleaning floors and windows. britbongs have bilt hamber surfex-hd, 1 liter for 8.29 bongbucks
>>
in my country they have surface disinfection, 1 liter for 4 euros with free shipping (the online pharmacies can ship anything for free for some reason, they surely have some kind of bulk deal for shipping like amazon or maybe it's some subsidy since it's just pharmacies idk), with isopropyl alcohol and surfactants, maybe adding orange essential oil to that would turn it into a pretty dank degreaser
>>
>Dish soap
>anionic detergent
>binds fat and water
>surfactants that losen dirt
Which part of the dish soap is eating away at the topcoat of your bike? or the metal itself lmao? Burden of proof is on the bozo with the outlandish claim. Until then, I dish soap
>>
Car soap, ingredients:
>surfactant
>detergents
Oh lawd this stuff is tailor made for cars so will be a better fit for my bike (my bike is kinda like my car)
>>
>>1948063
retard they make similar products for bikes but some bikenigger companies like muc-off are incompetent and bike-specific products are overpriced in general

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZH2Fe1m1QM
>>
>>1948064
>is retarded
>calls others retard
Ok
>>
>>1947867
did you bed them in?
>>
>>1947983
Assemble ONE bike. Ride it and keep doing the things you've envisioned, until its perfect. Do not buy parts for other bikes/ future bikes or whatever. Work on ONE bike only. When done, as in it really is perfect, see what you can get selling it. Consider keeping or selling. Start with the next one. But only once the previous one is really complete. Also stay away from trash. Do not polish turds.
Learned the hard way.
>>
>>1948060
Just buy gasoline for greases, it's better than whatever you can buy in a mall.
>>
>>1948078
just rebed them in case I didn't before. Still worse then some old xt's but the promax mech discs will work for now.
If I was doing mountain bike trails a 203 might do the trick, but I mostly use the front to just get to my jump spot, and then I scrub speed with the rear hydro disc.

I have an old shimano cable brake lever+shifter, might try that out in place of the promax lever.
>>
>>1948106
V brakes have a greater mechanical advantage than discs.
Best mech discs unordered are trp spyre, paul klampers, and avids
More disc more better braking
Fug hydros
I used to have an old gold ano gt lts from 93? 94? On the front it had a ROCKSHOX cnc'd dual actuated disc brake. That's the one thing from any one bike that I voluntarily parted with that I want back.
Might have to have a chat with the guy I traded it to now just to see how well it grabs
Also avid levers all the way. Cheap, clean and sharp, work great
I'll never run hydro
>>
>>1948106
In case you’re allowing yourself to get meme’d, hydraulic disk brakes are fucking amazing and their performance takes all mechanically operated brakes completely out of the argument entirely. Ditch those $20 promax mech discs, get some $40 shimano MT-200
>>
>>1948104
i'm gonna use lamp oil for my chain, 5 euros for 1 liter, the stuff they sell in my country is C10-C13 n-paraffin, similar to kerosene or odorless mineral spirits but smells very little. for cleaning motorcycle chains a lot of people recommend using kerosene, it's also mentioned in the wikipedia article for kerosene, the use of odorless mineral spirits is a bicyclenigger meme
>>
water based degreasers can be used in the household like for cleaning stovetops, windows, mirrors, bathrooms, workrooms
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjkXhGzACZ8
>>
Need a 46T chainring for my bike. Any tips? All I'm seeing is this Deckas stuff on eBay or really expensive stuff. Just looking for something that won't die in a year.
>>
Ok so I've gone back and forth between squirt and squirt with 5% ptfe powder by weight and plain squirt is way better. It might be more that the ptfe is bad. It lasts less than 1/4 as long and you can feel the friction after 20kms of a fresh lubeing.
Anyway I'm not seeing a benefit over plain squirt wax drip lube.
>>
>>1948133
>>1947189
>>
Is it stupid to wear a dark/neutral colored helmet instead of a hi viz one?
>>
>>1948149
no you wont be seen and you will die
>>
>>1948054
dish soap is for cleaning your dishes, not your bikes
you can use it on other things but that doesn't mean it's meant for that
>>
>>1948133
what bcd?
litepro sucks idk why that guy recommended it, i've seen those little arms break
>>
>>1948149
helmet color barely matters, if you want to be seen by blind idiots you can always change your clothes or put lights all over your bike
>>
>>1948120
haven't heard of a single one of these, must be a bunch of britbong products
>>
>>1948134
k
>>
>>1948133
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125456449576
here ya go
>>
My rear derailleur and cassette touch a bit and make noise in the easiest gear. I messed with the b screw and that didn't help. What do?
>>
>>1948176
scold it
bend it back because it's probably bent
failing that, replace it since you sound kindof lost
>>
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do these last longer than normal chains since they say chain stretch happens in the outer plates? or are they just the same as other chains?
>>
>>1948167
>i've seen those little arms break
[citation needed]
>>
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breaking chainrings isn't a thing without under/overtightening chainring bolts or hitting rocks when mountain biking or things like that. any narrow-wide chainring is far more durable than the old weight weenie road stamped aluminium type of chainrings.
>>
I want to spend like $350 on bike lights. What should I get?

Between Aliexpress, Wiggle, and Bike24. Will give them to people for Christmas and ride em. For city riding and unlit riding on tour. I have a Schmidt/Edelux system but only on one bike and otherwise just have some pretty shit rechargeable stuff that only does anything on flashing.
>>
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>>1948179
No because chain stretch is your rollers wearing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWemvEfYoBY
>hey viewers
>>
>>1948185
you know what does break randomly? Chinkshit chainring bolts.
They'd be straight up dangerous if chainring bolts didn't have quite a lot of redundancy.
>>
>>1948191
>>1945063
newboler LIG520 is about $15-20 depending on how savvy you are with grinding for coins in the aliexpress etc
rockbros Q2S rear light is around $10
>>
>>1948194
that's superstition/being retarded not knowing how to lubricate threads and not using a torque wrench
>>
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tighten each bolt gradually in a star pattern until you reach the desired torque
bikeniggers are so fucking stupid
>>
physically breaking things is not something that should happen "randomly" without crashing or abusing your shit. the problem is almost always retardation and not the inherent quality of the material
>>
>>1948184
someone posted a pic here on /n/, not sure if it was in a /bqg/ or not
>>
>>1948196
fuck torque wrenches
me and my homies overtorque everything we touch
>>
>>1948196
i've bought about a dozen packs of chainring bolts from aliexpress and 3-4 have broken atleast 1 bolt, this is with clean and correctly greased threads and well before reaching the correct torque.

Does it really surprise you that the chinese might fuck up making a tiny thin metal thing?

I love chinkshit but you have this idea in your head that it's all fantastic quality and leaves nothing to be desired and you're just delusional.
>>
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>>1948198
>tighten each bolt gradually in a star pattern until you reach the desired torque
>bikeniggers are so fucking stupid

The torque of pic rel chainring bolts have absolutely nothing to do with one another and tightening them in an autistic pattern is for retards.
>>
>>1948215
seems unlikely that it was that specific litepro chainring, it's not very common. any chainring can break under the wrong circumstances, pic related is an expensive absoluteblack chainring. it's more common but still not common to have significant issues with old thinner chainrings.

>>1948217
that's complete bullshit if we're talking litepro, they sell many thousands of sets and have basically no issues, i've seen an anon complain about motsuv chainring bolts though

>>1948219
that's the kind of insufferable boomer attitude that leads you to have problems. it's the same principle as tightening stem bolts in an alternating pattern, it's good practice, it doesn't hurt to be cautious especially if you believe that there's a real risk of things breaking for no good reason.
>>
>>1948217
you can get crmo chainring bolts for like $15-20, last set you'll ever buy
>>1948219
people tighten bolts in a star pattern to keep the chainring from getting pulled out of round. it's such a simple thing to do when you're already in the middle of the job, why wouldn't you do it? single speed and fixed gear bikes really need round chainrings in order to maintain roughly the same amount of chain slack during the rotation of the cranks, on bikes with derailleurs it matters less. some weird fucks even like oval chainrings but that's for another discussion
>>
>>1948220
daaaaamn thing's missing a toof
>>
>>1948192
>No because chain stretch is your rollers wearing.
your video is suggesting that its the inner plates and pins wearing lol
>>
>>1948228
oh yea i just get the terms confused
>>
>>1948220
>that's the kind of insufferable boomer attitude that leads you to have problems
no dude its chinkshit being shit that leads to problems and you think litepro is magically so much better... lmao
>>
>>1948233
M5/M6 bolts in steel/titanium are good enough to hold your saddle etc. M8 bolts x5 are more than enough to hold your chainring if you're not a fucking retarded overgrown toddler who refuses to learn how to install them properly
>>
Can you put 135 mm hub on a 130 mm dropout?
>>
>>1948246
>steel bike with thin stays
probably
People have been shoving 130mm hubs in 126mm dropouts for decades.
If you have the wheel and bike already I would try it out. If you are looking at wheels but have the bike I would see if you can spread the stays on your bike to a little past 135mm without too much pain.
>>
>>1948246
depends on the frame material but usually it's not an issue. it won't slide in but you can wedge it in, or cold set the frame if you have steel or titanium. it's not recommended for aluminum but 5mm isn't a big deal. don't do it with carbon of course.
>>
>>1948179
main problem is the rollers eating though the pins
>>
I have a RD-7800 rear derailleur. The jockey wheels don't spin freely. Should I try to disassemble and lube them or just replace them entirely?
>>
My chain keeps trying to shift itself when I ride. I have no idea what the problem is. I tried to adjust everything I can think of to fix it and it just doesn't work. The beryl adjusters, the height screws, etc. Nothing helps. Infact I even "fixed" it in the sense that riding feels nice and smooth and quiet, but it still tries to "shift" to the next gear but it never even goes anywhere. I honestly tried everything I could think of short of just taking the entire thing apart and doing it again (which I wouldn't even know how to do). So pedalling is basically impossible since as soon as I start to get moving it 'shifts' which fucks with the chain/everything and makes pedaling impossible, then it catches back onto the gears and maybe 100ft later tries to 'shift' again.

Sorry if I'm not describing it well, I have no idea what the problem is.
>>
>>1948326
Well how worn are they? if the teeth have any sharp points just replace them. I'd lean towards replacing them anyways because almost none of them actually have real bearings. i picked up 2 aluminum ones with sealed steel bearings for my derailleur for less than $5 on ebay. avoid the shitty unsealed ceramic bearings for similar prices, they're complete trash because they're unsealed. it makes cyclists seethe when they see my blue aluminum jockey wheels on my shitty shimano tourney derailleur. they can't stand it.
>>
>>1948327
sounds like your derailleur/cage might be bent

op is sexy, my caption said so
>>
>>1948342
*captcha
>>
>>1948341
Not very worn. The bike only has about 3,500 miles on it.
>>
>>1948344
just clean them out if you're cheap
replace them with wheels with bearings if you're a pimp
>>
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>>1948327
>beryl adjusters
damn, dude, you have barrel adjusters made out of beryl?
ballin' out of control my man

too much tension in the cable?
something loose in the shifter?
>>
>>1948344
probably just gummed up. the gearteeth themselves are plastic and therefore a magnet for chain oil that turns into black gunk. put a rag over your thumbnail or screwdriver and scrape them clean. then the inner part doesn't have proper bearings but whatever it's called flush them with solvent and when dry put one or two drops of chain oil there.
>>
>>1948363
*then wipe off the extra
>>
>>1948361
>beryl adjusters
i'd buy them
>>
>>1947983
Start selling bike parts. Our local market is fucking nuts, so I manage to make a slight profit selling old shit when I upgrade. I thought it would end with corona, but hardly anything changed in the last two years. Brand name saddles, seatposts, handlebars, etc. sell for good money if they're still in good condition.
I ought to sell my old pc, random leftovers and my old wheels so I can get some nice ones for the next season, but I just don't have the time
>>
>>1948371
hmm yeah I'm probably sitting on a few hundred bucks worth of parts I don't want or need anymore, I ought to sell this shit and buy stuff I do need
>>
Well, turns out the bar end shifters I ordered cant be set to friction mode. Better get a new 11 speed cassette and rd then
>>
>>1948366
I totally want some now, too. I think what we call green beryl is emerald, could be pricey. but how sweet would oversized barrel adjusters in beryl crystal that matched your frame or tape be?
>>
>>1948383
yes green beryl is emerald, i just bought an emerald last week lol
it's got far too many cracks for it to work out
maybe lab grown sapphire like they do with watch face crystals
>>
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Is there a neat trick to make sure a cable can't slip out of the clamp?
It did during a climb through a forest today, even though I had it clamped pretty well in my opinion. I don't want to use too much force on this old stuff.
>>
>>1948413
From my experience the cable can slip if it's worn out which seems to be the case in your pic. Replacing it should to the trick.
>>
>>1948415
It's not really old, though my early attempts at getting the tension right affected it badly, I guess.
>>
>>1948419
>attempts at getting the tension right affected it badly
I've made the same mistake before. When it gets mushed and flattened it doesn't hold as well. But don't worry about tightening down to hard, I use a lot of force when tightening and have never broken anything.
>>
>>1948421
Thanks, I'll replace it then. Do they stretch in the beginning btw?
>>
>>1948423
>Do they stretch in the beginning btw?
Do you mean the entire cable? If yes no.
>>
>>1948413
clean and lightly grease the thread of the bolt

that's not really a trick though, just standard practice with bolts on bicycles.
>>
>>1948423
'cable stretch' is mostly housing and ferrules seating.
>>
>>1948466
Can I use any grease? I have bearing grease.
Thanks everyone, by the way.
>>
>>1948510
yes, pretty much any grease will work
>>
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I'd like to fix my bike's brakes but I'm not knowledgeable about the subject. I have brakes like the pic and the front left brake isn't moving away from the wheel at all any more and is rubbing against the rim - what exactly should I do to fix that?

Also my brakes have gotten loose in general, I know I'm supposed to undo the silver nut a bit and pull the cable then screw the nut back in, but how do I tell when I've pulled the cable "enough"? I have a brake cable tensioner but never figured out how to use it. Do I do all of this before or after fixing the above problem with the brake pad rubbing against the rim?

Thanks for any help.
>>
>>1948526
Park Tool has good videos on adjusting brakes imo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMa9UqY9obk
>>
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>>1948526
there's a spring mechanism on both sides that allows you to adjust the balance between left and right
the small screw sets the tension of the spring

use your brain please
>>
>>1948526
>the left brake isn't moving away from the wheel at all any more
sounds like you're going to need to take the brake off and regrease the pivot posts they sit on
>>
>>1948529
Thanks, I'll check it out.
>>1948530
>use your brain please
Rude. Things may be obvious to you, but not to somebody who barely touches the mechanical workings of their bike. You don't even say which way to turn it.
>>1948533
Probably way beyond my pay grade.
>>
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>>1948535
>Probably way beyond my pay grade.
Unscrew these, liberally apply grease, make sure you properly align the spring with the holes in the fork and screw it back down.
>>
>>1947883
it's literally the best way to move shit on a bike after a trailer.
>>
>>1948413
try clamping it
>>
>>1948564
looks jank
>>
>>1947888
not aero
>>
Are those cheap $1-300 bikes from walmart/target ok for amateur riding? I just want to get some exercise peddling up and down a nearby bike path every day. 5 miles a day, give or take.
>>
>>1948634
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvranrFFKys
>>
>>1948635
Ok I guess I'm never riding a bike then. I'm not buying a $5k bike.
>>
>>1948636
this is nice enough for proper road cycling and it's a top brand so it will have good resale value

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road-bikes/domane/domane-al/domane-al-2-rim/p/33037/
>>
>>1948637
>muh resale value
again with this shit, is this an inside joke I'm missing out on?
>>
>>1948640
it will feel like a less of a waste of money, if he's not sure if he'll enjoy cycling he'll be able to sell it easily and get a lot of his money back
>>
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>>1948643
It's a trek not a rolexrolexrolex oyster perpetual automatic 1000f / 300m superlative chronometer swissswisswiss officially certified day date (picrelated it's mine shit was so cash)
>>
>>1948637
Fuck you trek fag anyone who shills trek can eat fucking rocks
>>1948636
Get a gravity off of bikes direct and make sure everything is lubed or greased sufficiently, as well as tightened to spec. Excellent value bikes for new bikes, much better than walltrash
Buy a used 80s 90s mtb alternatively, the value is 100x that of Walmart garbage. Do not buy that shit, those are "BSO"
>>
>>1948649
Is that your leg?
>>
>>1948634
there are a lot of great bikes for 1-300 in most used markets, but you have to know what to look for.
we have a thread for such things
>>
>>1948649
I like ham on a sub, but this is a sub on a ham!
>>
>>1948649
>>1948656
>>1948677
old pic is old
that's not his watch
and that's not a chronometer or a day date watch lol
>>
>>1948634
if you want exercise then cheap ass department store bikes are great because they're heavy as fuck. check everything first though, the assemblers aren't qualified and your safety is in your own hands. if you buy one used you can sell it for the same price (or maybe even more) if you don't like it. if you buy one new you can't do that, ever.
>>
>>1948656
i think it's a /biz/ meme to troll with pics like that as if to show off their success with a fancy watch but the wearer is comically fat
>>
Where can I find 104/64 triple chainrings that aren't chinkshit? Is getting lucky with something vintage on ebay my only option?
>>
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lol at bikeniggers running straight paraffin wax without beeswax

i got this white beeswax, it's legit
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32822375382.html
>>
>>
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If you were to build an indestructible, reliable and long lasting steel gravel/touring bike, how would you do it? Here's what I thought:

>thick walled, large diameter Reynolds 853 tubings double diamond frame
>filet braized so it's easier to repair a tube and doesn't heat up the tubing as much as tig welding
>thick zinc phosphate dip + ed coat + paint + ride wrap + framesaver in order to protect the metal from rust
>T47-86mm bottom bracket for stiffer frame and larger bearings
>various gussets to reinforce more fatigue prone areas
>massive tapered head tube for increased stiffness and allowing to use the largest bearings possible for the headset
>belt drive for less maintenance than a normal chain drive (unless you're religious on maintenance)
>36 to 40h wheels like ryde andra

Anything else?
>>
>>1948707
I’d buy a Kona rove or something what kind of question is this
>>
>>1948718
He has posted it a couple times.
>>1948707
used 90'mtb I buy cheap. 3x8, 26in wheels for durability, and vee brakes or hydro's since they haven't failed me yet.
>>1948702
Looks like universal cycles has some. I would look at similar warehouse stores online.

Sad that the 1x obsession has gotten this far. I am still dumbfounded biopace 2.0 exists.
>>
>>1948720
It’s a question that reeks of nobike and poor
>>
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How do I cope with the fact that I'm to stooped and I can't into truing my wheels? I've done every kind of maintenance on my MTB but somehow I get filtered by a slightly woobly rear wheel.
>>
>>1948707
wouldn't that type of retard want the most common possible bearings with a straight 1/8" head tube and BSA bottom bracket, there's only a handful of chinese suppliers for those bearings
>>
>>1948733
more practice, Take a break when you get frusturated, and try again.
>>
>>1948733
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3t36Pe63-0Q

the most important thing to know is that the nipples are clockwise threaded onto the spoke so the direction to tighten them is counterclockwise when looking at the nipple against the rim which may be counter intuitive if you don't know how they're constructed
>>
>>1948745
good point.
one good way to solidify this into your brain is to take the tire and the velox rim strip off and turn the nipples from inside the rim with a thick flathead screwdriver.
then when you use a spoke wrench next, it's orientation may be more intuitive even though it's "backwards," you fundamentally get which way is tighten and loosen
>>
>>1948745
I might be weird but I pluck the spokes too and can get them as accurate as my park tension meter. Helps me identify quickly if the spoke is a little off or not.
>>
>>1948745
I'm to stupid to do that
>>
where do you guys buy parts online? I remember using amazon in the past but holy fuck it is nothing but chinaslop now
>>
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>>1947220
i have an xt m760 rapid rise long cage id like to convert to short cage
these seem to be extremely rare in short cage
but lx m751s come up in short cage often and for very cheap
can i just take the cage off an m751 to put on an m760?
as far as i can tell the cages are exactly the same and the only difference in the bodies besides the reverse spring is just some minor styling
any complications i might run into?
>>
>>1948797
all bike parts are china slop and have been since like the 90s sorry man
if you want better its gotta be second hand vintage parts
>>
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I thought aluminum fatigue was a meme.
this is some guys daily driver of 11 years
>>
>>1948823
forgot link
https://www.reddit.com/r/bikecommuting/comments/16ipbc6/can_this_be_fixed_been_my_daily_driver_for_11/
>>
>>1948797
https://www.performancebike.com
they used to have $2 shipping to canada somehow although it took forever.
>>
>>1948797
I've been using modernbike.com here in the US. they have a huge inventory and the website is stripped down so the pages load fast, and the filters and sorting makes it easy to find things
>>
>>1948810
I mean I'd just put the whole m751 on there but what you suggest sounds like it would work. if you swap them out and it works, great. if not , just put the cage back on the m751 and run that?
>>
How do I cure biketism? How do I stop consuming biketistic content?
>>
>>1948831
i want a short cage rapid rise is the point lol
the m751 isnt rly useful to me if this doesnt work
is there somewhere i can get detailed info on shimano derailleurs
>>
>>1948837
cant im afraide
maybe suffer a health condition that stops you?
thats the only thing i can think of that would stop me
>>
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Who the FUCK is to blame for 15mm bolts on square taper crank arms?
>>
>>1948541
Wtf is going on with those seat stays
>>
My average mountain biking heart rate has been dropping like a brick the last 2 years, it feels like not long ago I was averaging 165-170 and regularly peaking and 185-190 with lots of variation, and nowadays I’m at 150 average with 170 max and it’s super consistent. I’m just getting healthier right? If I do care about getting stronger, does this imply i need to change up my rides at all? I’ve been used to all my rides being 50-90% in zone 4-5 and figured it was just how I’m wired, but it’s weird having a 2 hours sprint through mountain singletrack be almost all zone 3 “aerobic” intensity, is it better to ride at lower HR to get stronger, even if you’re very used to and capable of riding at high HR?
>>
>>1948829
based. can also vouch for modern bike
>>
>>1948734
reliable and long lasting does not imply anything about parts availability, and so what? they're not complicated, the only reason they're made in china is because there's no need to use more expensive labor on a cheap ass item like that.
>>
>>1948797
everything is made in china
even the shit that's not made in china is made with parts that are made in china
get over it, i'm sick of all the whining
you aren't going to start a factory here to just shut the fuck up and cope
>>
>>1948823
>I thought aluminum fatigue was a meme.
Yeah mechanical engineers were just making shit up to fuck with the general population, it was all a ruse, seems reasonable
>>
>>1948871
read the name on your cranks you smooth brained dunce, that's who to blame
>>
>>1948881
we talk about bikes here, I think you want /fit/
there's some overlap but you probably won't get much help from these autists, they can't relate
>>
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is having a regular cadence just a skill you practice and develop or am I just a lazy piece of shit? fatass trying to get some regular cardio in but I notice I tend to coast a lot once I'm at a good speed, feels almost like I'm getting bounced back from my pedals at times. Does that mean I'm in the wrong gear?
>>
How much do you pay to face a BB shell in 2012+11? I would call my local shop a but thought I’d ask online first to see what is reasonable. Most the shops around me seem to charge quite a bit for even basic service even the most clueless rider could handle with few tools (not sure if Burgerstan prices are to blame). Secondly, I’ve found some tips on checking how flat the shell is (feeler gauges is probably what I’ll go with) but nothing for alignment- any ideas how to go about that at home? Ideally I’d like to avoid the expense and pop the external BB right on this afternoon, but if things are really out of whack I will take care of them properly. For what it’s worth it’s a mid 90s Cannondale racing frame. Well built aluminum bikes to my knowledge but the entire line looks to be designed from the beginning for cartridge style BBs where facing wasn’t really necessary AFAIK. Replacing the bearings a bit sooner than necessary isn’t a huge deal (although Power Torque is it’s own can of worms and I’ll have to buy the associates tools) but I’d rather not fuck up the crank spindle too.
>>
>>1948907
yeah none of us actually ride out bikes we dont know anything about fitness
>>
>>1948943
is this in top gear?
if not it could mean your gear steps are too wide and youre stuck in between gears
>>
>>1948954
just buy the tool yourself lol itl probably be cheaper even if you only use it once
>>
>>1948960
You know they’re starting at almost 300 bucks right? Nearly could buy a full Tiagra group for that much, or a decent set of alloy wheels. You also have to know what you’re doing.
>>
>>1948959
not top gear no, but I think perhaps the steps are too wide. Should I just get stronger quads so I handle the higher gear then? is it the higher the gear the harder it feels to push or the other way around?
>>
>>1948965
ok on further investigation youre right why the fuck are these things so expensive
>>1948970
yeah youre gears are probably too wide
what is the gearing on your bike?
you can maybe modify it to suit your terrain better
im guessing youre riding an mtb somewhere relatively flat
you can also just shift up a gear and push harder if you want but youl tire yourself out faster
>>
>>1948954
just check it with your eyes and feel it with your hand for uneven paint and such, that's what the mechanic would do to see if it's necessary to face it at all. wet sand it carefully with fine sandpaper (1200-1500 grit preferably) backed by a flat surface like a piece of glass or a lego brick. use common sense like don't just sand it in one spot because then it will be uneven. don't take off too much material because if the width ends up being significantly less than 68mm then that could be an issue in its own right. having a tiny bit of misalignment is normal, the threads won't line up the bottom brackets cup perfectly so the crank spindle might not slide in through the second bearing without a bit of resistance but the bottom bracket cup will flex to accommodate that.
>>
>>1948999
>lego brick
this would be a bigger one that reaches across the face of the bb shell
>>
>>1948943
yes
>>
>>1948979
I think it's a shimano 8 speed but don't know the details beyond that. I'm guessing my gear is just too low and it's as >>1949043 says, I'm just being lazy and need to practice the skill
>>
Someone on FB marketplace is selling this bike for $170. Anyone know what brand this bike is and if it's worth the price? Anything I should look out for when coming to see it?
Idk shit about bikes but I'm just trying to avoid the awful parking and aids ridden public transportation at my uni campus by getting a bike that I can fit in my car (with this method: https://youtu.be/rjyaXvVXDjk) and parking slightly away from the campus so I can just bike there in a timely manner.
>>
>>1949046
yeah but how big is the 8 speed
and do you have front gears?
if you look closely theres a little number on each gear
if you can tell me what it says on the biggest and smallest gear (you could also count the teeth) i can tell you if thats the problem
of if you post a pic il be able to tell
>>
>>1948943
I literally never coast unless im coming up to a red light or something. even down hill, I feel like im wasting momentum if im not pedaling.
but yeah you should be shifting gears to keep at the right resistance
>>
>>1949050
looks like it's a Shimano Tourney A070 2x7, so a 7 speed actually not an 8 speed. I don't actually see the ratio written anywhere on the cassette
>>
>>1949054
14-28t? does that mean anything
>>
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what do you psycho anti-chink posters have to say about this? most stuff is either mediocre mass produced shimano/sram type stuff or tiny boutique stuff like absoluteblack, wolf tooth, raceface, garbaruk where you pay a premium for what you get like for those multi thousand dollar gravel meme builds. you are a despicable racist if you don't think that some of the larger chinese companies can't come up with some pretty good designs and CNC machine them with good tolerances (virtually any modern narrow-wide chainring outperforms the old stamped sheet metal narrow chainrings) and you are a classist if you think that everyone should piss hundreds of dollars down the drain buying more or less generic and mundane bike components from niche boutique brands.
>>
>>1949058
sellers and consumers of cycling snake oil are all retarded
>>
>>1949058
It’s true, every good idea will have a Chinese company copying it for profit, the problem is the quality is trash
>>
>>1948999
Nice trips

Unfortunately a bit late, was able to get the old crank off finally and the drive side looked very clean, just like the non drive. Definitely machined, no paint overspray, felt very even. The possibility of misalignment still bothers me but if the cups flex as you say to accommodate anything minor that’s reassuring. Past midnight here and I don’t really feel a night ride so it’s first shakedown is tomorrow. Looks so good though as a build now imo, and shifting seems perfect on the stand. I think my old crank was a little too vintage for the 9 speed setup I’m running now- no pins, let alone ramps. No issues with that now though.
>>
>>1949068
should be fine then. you said power torque so maybe you didn't notice the the thing i said about sliding through the second bearing. see 3:40 in the video below, it won't necessarily slide through without resistance but it will work fine, there's a lot of forces involved with the bolts tightened down and your body weight when pedaling etc so this potential misalignment is very minor compared to that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqBtB8Kyl2U
>>
What is the metric for complete gear ratio which accounts for crank length and tire diameter, not just front/rear gear ratio? A calculator or formula would be helpful.
>>
>>1949068
jeez, I've gotta figure running no ramps and pins would affect shifting far more than any minute problems caused by needing the shell chased and faced. I mean, that's a huge difference
>>
does clipless pedals+cleats change the effective crank length vs flats and normal shoes?
>>
>>1949149
longer cranks give you more leverage, bigger wheels give you less leverage. going from 170mm to 175mm cranks requires 3% less pedaling torque.

>>1949181
the stack height will probably be lower so you should adjust your saddle height accordingly. the overall effective crank length should stay roughly the same since the stack height is added to the whole pedal stroke.
>>
>>1949055
hhhmmm i was expecting some big mountain bike cassette its normally those kinds of bikes that have this problem
maybe its because its only a 7 speed
maybe you do just need to push a higher gear
which gears do you normally get stuck between?
>>
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>>1948704
>>1948705
>>
How do I know if my bike is worth repairing or just get a new one? It's fine and works great, but it's only an entry level $500 one, it's from a reputable real bike store, but still entry level. It's a meridia crossway 10.
>>
>>1949186
Bigger power stroke distance tho, distance per pedal is more. Bet you speedwalk to the store too
>>
>>1949049
Hey I'm still kind of thinking about picking up this bike, however it doesn't seem to have a quick release on the front wheel, would it be easy to install one manually?
>>
>>1949186
>longer cranks give you more leverage, bigger wheels give you less leverage.
Ok, thanks. Is there a formula for the wheels?
>>
>>1948823
That shit looks like just picked up from a ditch
>>
>>1949275
it's proportional to the diameter, usually you have a frame of reference like two 700c wheel bikes with similar size tires so it doesn't really matter unless you're trying to find the perfect fixed gear/singlespeed ratio

>I would like to propose a new system, which does take crank length into account. This system is independent of units, being expressed as a pure ratio.

>This ratio would be calculated as follows: divide the wheel radius by the crank length; this will yield a single radius ratio applicable to all of the gears of a given bike. The individual gear ratios are calculated as with gear inches, using this radius ratio instead of the wheel size.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gain.html
>>
>>1949269
shorter cranks are spinnier so the same gear ratio becomes harder to pedal at your preferred cadence for that crank length
>>
>>1949322
So what's the advantage?
>>
>>1949323
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igxPhqs12D4
>>
>>1948958
there's more truth to your sarcasm than you'd like to admit which is why nobody here helped the guy
>>
>>1949049
that's a fixed gear bike so unless that's what you're looking for, it's probably not what you're looking for. nice bike though, i'd probably buy iit up. looks like it was made for tricktrack. fixed gear riding is a lot harder but a lot funner, very addictive. there's lots to look for when going to see a new bike, just watch a couple youtube videos about buying used bikes, it's too much to list here.
>>1949270
quick release isn't the upgrade you think it is. you're talking about being on a university campus dude, there is literally no more likely place to get your bike stolen or parted up. quick release means you're a lot more likely to come back to find your bike missing a wheel or two. if anything you should be looking at some security bolts. you may want to consider getting an extra lock or two so that you can always lock your front and rear wheels to your frame even if the bike rack is shitty. if you want to keep your bike on a university campus you don't have to make it impossible to steal, you just have to make it a lot harder to steal than the next guy's bike. don't be an easy target.
>>
>>1949323
it's great for short people
lots of short fuckers out there that could benefit from shorter cranks
>>
>>1949331
there are probably some weak incel commuters who ride but don't know anything about training and fitness
>>
>>1949270
a whole new wheel with a hollow axle that the quick release skewer slides through? yes, it'll go into your fork dropout the same as the wheel currently on there.

you want to just put a quick release skewer onto the existing wheel? doesn't work until you take the hub apart and replace the axle with a hollow one for the skewer. make sure you get the same length as what's on there.

check what's on there, though. you can put lug nuts on a hollow axle, maybe you get lucky and someone converted from QR to nutted. but it's unlikely.

you can get security skewers instead of QR if you're paranoid about theft, but you still need the hollow axle. or use an extra cable to go through the front wheel when you lock up (ulock through rear wheel, seat tube and stationary object. loop cable around front wheel and both ends into the U, then lock)

>>1949267
it's fine
>>
>>1949388
Hollow and solid axles have different tpi in my experience. If you try to switcharoo the nuts youll ruin it and it wont tighten
>>
>>1949149
gain ratio
https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
takes into account wheel diameter crank length and gear ratio
>>
>>1949324
the thing i still havnt figured out is how to determine my ideal crank length based on my leg measurements
i see 20% of total leg length thrown around but i dont know if this has any actual mathematical basis, feels more like a close enough guess
>>
>>1949436
you don't need to change it if your current crank length feels fine. studies have shown negligible performance differences between different lengths iirc. maybe look at what seems normal like subtract 2.5mm from what comes with stock bike builds, compare to pros with a similar saddle height as you if they have that info posted online.

https://www.applemanbicycles.com/resources/riders-guide-to-crank-length/#crank-length-formulas
>>
https://www.applemanbicycles.com/resources/crank-length-vs-power-cadence/
>>
New thread

>>1949487
>>1949487
>>1949487
>>
>>1947289
I personally don't understand the value of having more then 11 speeds. If you're an old man, fine but if you're fit you just need a fast gear and then an emergency granny ring for the bad days
>>
>>1948067
see >>1950581



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