Shady listing edition.Post here for recommendations on a bicycle purchase. Useful tips: include your height, weight, intended riding and budget. Details and a picture are always best.
>check map to my new job>40 mins by bus>8 mins by car/bike>wtf>know nothing about them >look into scooters>light, fast but shitty control and need charging>look into negro delivery bikes with the fat street tires>mad expensive>bike with speeds only optionShould I look into the used market or get something that would actually fit my manlet stature and speed/tires/suspension?I am new and just got employed so also poor. Looking at $250-300.
$300 can get you a good used bike. An 8 min bike commute is easy, you should do it. Have you ridden a bike before? What's your craigslist?
I'm looking for a road bike in Europe around the 800-1k euro price range. I'm 190 cm roughly. I'd like to use it for sports reasons like 2-3 times a week. Nothing professional. 40 km per session usually, but in the future I'd like to take it on long +100 km rides. I'm looking at this bike in particular right now:https://www.cube.eu/uk-en/cube-attain-deepblue-n-white/676100Giant, Kross, Kellys, these are the brands I'm mostly familiar with and have bikes for this price.Any tips?And for my height would an L or a 60 be ideal?
>>1942312Look at the Rose Pro SL with the Shimano 105 groupset and rim brakes.Its a bit more expensive but the parts are worth it. Size also depends on your inseam. But i would look at something like 58-60 without knowing it.
>>1942198I changed my mind because the buses have GPS.>today>be me at 7am>ye, no I ain't walking>try the bus app>I can see the buses in real time moving>the exact knowledge about when to hit the stop changes everything >goodMore time but at 7am and 5pm things are very different in your mind when you think about walking/biking.
I want to get a gravel bike for less than $1500. Any recommendations? Canyon is basically out of stock.
>>1941652>Useful tips: include your height, weight, intended riding and budgetI need something I can put inside my car for when I come and go90kg183cm$500
>>1942526Some used mountain bike that you pull off the wheels and stick them back on.>car too smallbmx bike, maybe a used folding bike>I need newwalmart>>1942487used cx bike>I need newno idea
Theres some dude in my area thats trying to sell a specalized allez sprint. Hes been lowering the price a fuck ton and im going to check it out, is there anything i should take note of? More worried he crashed the bike dont really care if its stolen.
>>1942542Do the normal stuff like checking it shifts, brakes, etc. Do ride it if ya can.
>>1942487bikesdirect (motobecane) comes to mind -- the frames aren't anything special but they're decently specced, cheap, and reliably in stock .fuji makes a pretty good variety of <1500 gravel bikes (Jari 2.3, Jari 2.5), as does marin (Nicasio, Gestalt) if you're looking for recognizable brands
If I have to choose between two bikes and the only major difference is the breaks, then should I go with mechanical disk breaks or rim breaks?
>>1942562Disc brakes are better than Vs or Cantis for offroad bikes or whenever you want wide tires, but it's usually more complicated than that. What is more important than brake type is getting a good fork, whatever that means. WAY more disc bikes have shit forks. For rim, since the early 90s and on, Ultegra and pretty much all shimano trickle down dual pivot road caliper brakes for tires under 30mm are pretty excellent. But that's road bikes. And on an absolute pieces of shit v brakes are cool because even the total shit ones can easily stop you
>>1942564I forgot to mention that I'm looking for road bikes. So you say for a road bike a rim break is good enough in the entry level category?
>>1941652Ibex road bicycles: good or garbage?
If I'm between two sizes (L-XL, 58-60cm), and I don't have options to actually try out the bike in person, then should I go for bigger or smaller? Size calculator says there's barely a few millimeter difference between the two models, so I don't know).
>>1942575Get the smaller one for a more sporty and compact feel. A longer stem doesnt cost the world if its to small. Setback seatposts also exist.Bigger one for a more stable and relaxed position.
Can anyone tell me the different types of T47 bottom brackets and their advantages? Like internal vs external bearings? 68mm, 85.5, 86, 86.5mm width?
>>1942567Not the other guy, but I've had no problems with rim brakes, even in rain. Just be gentle with how hard you squeeze the lever for the conditions. I recently locked the front wheel going down a wet hill and launched the bike out from under me. I have very limited experience with mech discs, but the one test ride I took it was very hard to stop. Adjusted wrong? Needed a break in period? Maybe, but I do read often of mech discs getting flak.Rim brakes look better anyway.
Giant bikeSells for 90 eurosWorth or not? I just need something to ride around including terrain
>>1942567For a road bike I would go disc if you want more resale or weigh a lot, cantilevers if you weigh less and want more modulation+like the look. Modern rim brakes do okay for me. Ancient single pull canti's aren't strong enough.I do okay with mech discs, but you get a "worse" lever feel then a rim brake.>>1942575I would always go smaller, unless it comes with a crazy long stem already. So if you get a 58 and it feels/seems to be small you can go up 2cm on your stem from a 100 to a 120.if the bike comes with a 120/130/140 then it might be hard to get a longer stem., setback seatposts work but now you are fucking with your pedaling which can be suboptimal.Also take account your body type. I have 33in inseam at 5'11, so a smaller 56 fits me better with a normal stem. I can ride a 57/58 but I need a shorter stem.>>1942580Internal gives smaller bearings with less crank support so IMO external is superior. However your cranks have to be wide enough and the Q factor could be increased depending on factors.68mm/73mm BSA is the standard BB size and the one I have most experience with.Your 85.5/86/86.5 could be modern designs that use a wider tube at the bottom or carbon fiber that theoretically gives better stiffness in that area. So far I like external bb's, and hollowtech cranks. If you want to nerd out watch some hambini videos about BB's.>>1942630Looks fine but the seat is odd and the quill stem indicates a pre 2000's mountain bike
>order a bike>instant regretWhy am I like this? But if I didn't do anything I'd be browsing and searching for another 2-3 months.
>>1942688Too many options and you are worried you choose the wrong bike.Even though the bike is probably perfectly fine for you.I dodge this by buying used bikes at what I consider good prices, and remember the new prices. Plenty of bikes for sale used that cost the same as the wheelset it came with.
What you think about this one for 45€? Apparently one break isn't working (supposedly back one). It will need some love in general like, but it seems like a good deal?Mostly important for me it's alu because having to bring it up stairs everyday.
>>1942688You'll forget once you get it and start riding
>>1942704that rusty steel quill stem is a bit spooky
Are bike prices seasonal?Can I expect to pay less for the same bike during the winter?
>>1942704Why are all the EU bikes posted here so fucking sad looking
>>1942173Get a used bike in good condition. No suspension = less maintenance and less things to fuck up. Also, fewer parts = simpler and cheaper maintenance.Get a single speed if you are lazy and live on flat land.Get an old mtb or hybrid if you want to enjoy cycling to the fullest.>>1942630A lot of cheap boomer garbage on it, but would make for a decent beater. Be ready to do the bearings, cables and housings and check the chain.If you have high hopes for this thing shove them up your ass. It will only make for a beater.>>1942704This will have a lot of problems underneath the surface. Looks too cheap and shitty to bother.
>>1942748Because the yuropoor wants to buy a beater restoration project
Hello. Will a GRX front derailleur work with a 46/34 road crankset? The spec sheet says the GRX chainrings are offset by 2.5mm compared to regular road cranks.My frame isn't exactly made for regular road FDs, it needs the housing to enter the FD.
>>1942753Excuse me for posting this not in /bqg/, I am very sleepy
cheapass bike guy back again. is it worth replacing rims on such a cheap bike or should I just deal with them? tires have gotta go though, I want something better for on road that can still handle coming on and off curbs (bike infra is shit here) and going on gravel/trails, but doesn't need real offroad/mud performance (ability to deal with wet/cold important too), preferably available easily in canada and not that expensive.
Raleigh MT500 for 150-170 eurosworth or not?
>>1942770If the rims are fine or tensionable leave em. If you start having to tension the rims after every ride, or fuck with the hubs then decide to swap them. However this will probably not be an issue since that isn't a walmart bike
>>1942774Picture bro
>>1942746bump
>>1942770>is it worth replacing rimsAs the other guy said no. Unless they are very worn out it's not worth the money.>tires have gotta go thoughI have a very similar bike and I run Continental Racekings. I haven't had them that long so no perfect review but they're good on roads and gravel, can't speak much mud and snow.
are there any grips that I can easily grip at the ends but fit on regular handlebars? I guess like a clamp that just has a handlebar grip on it and affixes vertically to the current handlebars?
>>1942983You mean something like bar end grips?
>>1942997I posted again in the BQG but I think I am looking for a horn grip, if those are meant for resting your hands at the very edge of the handlebars
>>1942998I'm pretty sure both terms refer to more or less the same thing. You can usually adjust the position to be more or less vertical but yes they are meant for you to rest your hands on the edge
>>1942998Yeah those are bar ends. Lizard skins makes some dirt cheap ones. Honestly they are awesome for climbing and for road+xc work. Who doesn't want to put little horns on their bike to ram into things?
>>1942929Thoughts?
>>1943124If you want a stranger on the internet to validate your urge to buy one: Go for it champ!What model year are you looking at?
>>19431342019 comp alloy st one for 1600 bucksAnd yes im looking for validation, I have spasms when thinking about parting with my money
I have clincher tires I want to replace on 584x18 rims with road tires. Can I get some recommendations?
Cop or not? Can't be much harder than fixing up a vintage bike
>>1943179Free, starts, what's not to like?>>>/o/
>>1943174be more specific. There are lots of 650b tires.
>>1943196I bike to get around campus in a city. The frame itself is an older Specialized mountain bike. I'm not really on a budget but I'd prefer to avoid spending above my needs. If you want to know anything else just ask, I'm not really sure what information is relevant.
>>1943200how much tire clearance does it have? What width tire do you want?
>>1943200GP 5000 32mm G-Ones>i'd prefer to avoid spending above my needsI'd recommend you to then look around and buy a tire which is on sale. As a meme size 650b tires are often heavily discounted and a number of fancy nonsense ones were/are made. A basic wire bead city tire, especially a better one (like a wire bead Kojak), might be fine, but man, nice tires, are really nice. Try find some that are discounted.
>>1943205Starting from the rim, around 2 3/4" to the fork and an inch between chain stays. No preference on width but I just don't know enough to be able to say.>>1943206I noticed that the G-Ones are all tubeless but my rims are non-tubeless, should I get an inner tube if I do decide to get tubeless tires?
The boomer who is selling these bikes insists that the bike on the left has a large frame, but I have my doubts. I don't want to drive there to find out that it's 54 centimeters.What size does it look like to you?Thanks.
>>1943466It's not a large frame. I'd say it's in the low 50 range. Ask him if he's a manlet, maybe it's large to him.
>>1943513That confirms. Thanks.
Hey y'all, just pulled the trigger on a Merida Espresso ep-8 edition. Has a Shimano mid engine.It has not yet arrived, and was looking at the Cube Kathmandu hybrid pro, because the easy access frame, and the fact I might get a hip surgery any year now. It would low for ease of access.The cube is 200 more expensive. Thoughts?This is the one I bought
>>1943738And this is the one I might swap for.On account of my shit hips, I am leaning towards the cube.
Any idea what frame this is?Gonna use it as grocery store bike...the chain is rusty as fuck so probably need to check bearings and change the cables. Seems pretty good for 74 burgers
>>1943738>>1943741My standard rec to any prospective e-bike buyer is to test ride extensively before buying. The differences between any two ebikes are much greater than between two comparable bicycles or two comparable cars. This is a relatively new form of transportation and there is no comprehensive body of knowledge and experience to share with new riders; it's all new.
I can get an 80's Miyata with SunTour AR II derailleur for $150, should I do it? They say it has been serviced and it looks good in pics.
>>1943851nice urban attack bike
>>1943860Your mom has been serviced and looks good in pics.
Thoughts? $100 for a city beater
pleb here buying a bike for the first time in a decade. looking for value recommendations for commuting in a flat city. I want a single gear freewheel and minimal extra bullshit. picrel is appealing to me but seems pricey ($700) for what it is (191cm 118kg currently working on losing weight)
>>1944016Looks like a brooks saddle and miche crank.I'd say go for if.
>>1944023>seems pricey ($700) for what it isThat's about what I'd expect for a decent singlespeed new. If you want a better deal you need to get lucky on the second hand market.
Listed for $200. Good deal?
>live in a hilly area>commuting to work and school through mostly roads but some dirt trails >my rim brakes left me pretty sketched out last winter so i'd like disks>north east and planning to use this till the snow makes it impossible so looking support for some decent studded tires>would like something low maintenance >looking for something in the $700 range but i may spurge for $1k, depends on what happens at work >not too interested in getting an e-bikeThe Marin Presidio 2 and the Poseidon X Ambition look good, is there anything else like them?IF I wanted to splurge the Priority Continuum Onyx seems like it ticks everything for me but the price, same thing with the presidio 3 to lesser degree
>>1944135I see some bikes have nexus hubs, flat bars, hydraulic brakes, 7 vs 10 speed, bigger tires, drop bars, carbon forks, belt drive, cvt+hub powered lights.>700 class2 very different bikes. The poseidon is like a road bike with large tires. The presidio 2 is more of a commuter focused with the nexus hub+single speed which should be more maintenaince free. Presidio 2 would be my choice for less maintenaince, lower top speed required, and better brakes. Poseidon has more top end speed(extra 3 speeds for that), comfier tires, comfier bars.For you I would chose the presidio 2.>1000usd classmuch more similar bikes focus. The onyx is interesting with it's powered lights, stock fenders, and CVT transmission.Presidio 3 is just a 2 with 1 more gear for climbing+belt drive which is even lower maintenaince then a single speed chain.Presidio 3 if you want a more proven design, onyx if you want more features and try out the cvt which you should research about.All of them will do you fine. Both cable or hydraulic disk brakes work well in the rain. Cable you have to pull harder but get better modulation. Some people don't like the feel, where as hydraulic you have lots of braking power.When I used to commute to school I used single speed bikes and just adjusted the gear ratio until it worked for the use case. However I had almost no traffic and almost no rain.
Looking to get a new Trail-do it all bike and was looking at the canyon spectral 125. Any experience with that? The shorter travel should be a good thing if im riding a bit further.Not the full spec version but im looking to drop max 5k on the bike.
>>1944171Do you have experience with these types of bikes? Are you riding normal trails, smooth more xc stuff, or is the descents all you care about?It's probably fine. I ride mostly old bikes in that travel range and the biggest things are geometry, dropper posts, wide bars, suspension, and decent tires. Some of that you don't even need if you are skilled enough.
>>1944178Yeah i rode some downhill 5-6 years ago and rode roadbikes since then.But there are a lot of single trails where i live and wanted something light and nimble with long range capability.XC bikes are to mellow and full blown downhill bikes suck.
>>1944218>xc bikes are to mellow and full blown dh bikes suckYeah for normal trails you are right. Something like the canyon, a trek fuel, rocky mountain element, or most trail bikes would do the job.Your call on 27.5 vs 29 choice. Same with carbon, your choice.Spec wise it really depends on what parts you want. I have had good luck with basic shimano deore or lower groupset sram, but getting slx or xt is worth it too.125/140mm travel should be plenty for most harder riding. I would look at multiple bikes and make the choice on geometry+price.Stuff like steeper slacker vs steeper headangle, longer vs shorter chainstays, 27.5 vs 29, longer vs shorter wheelbase, etc.All my bikes are a decade old so I can't say much about the new stuff. Just please get a dropper, and decent width bars. I find XC bikes pretty rowdy but you have to like the "oh shit" feeling you get on some decentsI would probably go with the cf 7 or al 6. Both have nicer forks with a rockshox pike vs fox 36. Better components then the cheaper al 5.Many bikes that sell DTC seem to be on sale, so check out other companies if ya want.Back in the day I had plenty of fun on a 140/140 down normal black DH runs, so a modern trail bike can probably do fine on double blacks and some gnar.
>>1944129Would. If it works that's a fair price
>>1944146Thanks, from the looks of it, I'll be going with the onyx if I can afford it next month, if not then the Presidio 2Unrelated but I found out Yamaha makes e-bikes, are they any good? Coworker is praising e-bikes and wondering if I should save a bit longer for one
>>1941652I'm in the market for a damn good track bike / fixed gearI'm 5'10'' or 178cmI weigh about 190 lbs or 85kg but I'm on a diet and will probably be down to 160 in a few months. I was 280 a year or two ago.I don't have any set budget. Cheap, expensive, idkPlease tell me WHY you would recommend a specific bike
>>1944275Don't know much about e-bikes, but the yamaha cross core is similar to the other bikes you are looking at, just almost 2k more with slightly worse components. If I were you I would see if you can ride your co-workers e-bike in the local area to see how you like it, weigh the choices, and go from there. For commuting I can see the e-bike being nice.
I've been thinking about this bike, currently for $800 US, what do yall think: https://www.lekkerbikes.us/products/jordaan-step-through-bikeI'm looking for something relatively light with a lot of utility for grocery runs, and an upright riding position to chill on. My area is relatively hilly, so light weight and a few gears are important.
>>1944333You will be walking that bike up hills because of that riding position and because it weighs THIRTY-SEVEN POUNDS.Other red flags:>"Rear RimAluminium 32H; Shimano Nexus Internal geared hub"3 speed 36Hthe listing can't even keep the components coherent>quill stemimplies cheapo quality overall>"BrakesPremium Hydraulic Disc brakes"they don't give any name for the brakes it uses>"HeadsetRotation Lock XRS100"apparently this restricts how much the handlebars can turn. I'm now certain this bike is for 50 year old women who will take it out for a flat half mile twice a monthFind a $700-$800 hybrid/fitness/road bike with eyelets to mount racks at a bike shop and you'll be happy.
>>1944467lmao 37lbs for an aluminum bike is a little absurd even accounting for all the shit-tier accessories included with the bike, there's steel klunkers that weigh less than that boat anchor, that's full-sus mtb tier hevy. The locking quill stem is sus af too.
>>1944333Seconding this post, I'm looking for an upright bike, my budget is higher though I don't mind paying ~1500 for a good, comfy bike. I have a fast, almost $2K road/street bike which is great for exercise/speed purposes but I need to wear padded shorts otherwise my perineum gets raped, also I can't really modify it much. I want something more easy on the body which lets me go around grocery shopping and whatnot with baskets and shit. I looked at some omafiet bikes from Amsterdam but I don't want the hassle of international shipments, I'd rather get something from America if possible. Sorry for the vague terminology, I'm a bike noob
>>1944282Build one yourself.Its really not hard and you only need about 100 bucks worth of tools.Get a steamroller frame, its sturdy and versatile, you can try out a lot of different setups.Plan around 1500$ for a decent build.
>>1944282First, good job on that progress with your fitness journey. Now a track bike is a very specific form of cycling where "damn good" becomes less about the bike and more how the bike fits you. You're going to need to study bicycle geometry and what it means to you, how it effects bike fit relative to your body, and finding the dynamics that change over time (your body is always changing, so will your fit). Look at the geometry of your current bike and compare it with the geometry of other bikes, especially ones you want, learn how varying each length and angle changes the bike, and find your acceptable limits of angle sharpness.Now with all that said and done, here are the track bikes my poor ass wish I could buy>Cinelli Vigorelli>Dosnoventa>La Piovra>Leader Carbon>All-City Thunderdome
Selling question if OK. How badly does picrel ruin the resale value of my bike? It was $1500 new 1.5 years ago. Not planning to resell any time soon but yeah.
>>1944290Ya looked pretty expensive for an e bike, I was just wondering since I have a Yamaha motorcycle, so wondering if their e bikes are as goodCoworker was telling me about Aventon if I wanted something more reasonably pricedI think on still go with a non e bike since it can get pretty cold over here and I've heard bad things about batteries and winter
>>1944540Why though? If it that wedge had gotten corroded in place or the bolt was stripped out you could have drilled out the bolt without damaging your frame. Then you'd just need to replace a wedge and those are cheap.But to your question you've definitely rekt whatever resale value that had without putting in some more work. I'd sand away the top few mm of that seattube so that the grooves are gone, that's the best way to make this look decent again.
>>1944577>sand away the top few mm of that seattube so that the grooves are gone, that's the best way to make this look decent again.I guess, but I'd have to repaint it
>>1944467>>1944474lekker poster heretheyre out of stock anyway so i got a trek verve 1 at a good price and added a rack and basket, its like 31 lb now but still much lighter than my previous bike which was 43 lbs
>>1941652 Looking for a comfortable bicycle I can ride around to explore my town's streets. I've only ridden long-term on a beach cruiser with no brakes or gearing, but I am actively looking for those two features on my next bike. I also live in a very hilly area (something the cruiser could never handle). I'm open to e-bikes for this reason, but I partially want to ride a bicycle for the exercise as well. Currently looking at a Giant Cypress 2 or 3 but I'd like a second opinion.>5'7">120 lbs> Budget of <1500$
>>1945146Any bike that isn't a piece of shit or for some hipster that's into fixies will have good brakes and gearing. For $1500 you can get a high quality bike or a mediocre e-bike with a lot of trade-offs. What kind of hills do you expect to be going up? Is it strictly for city riding and light dirt roads? Do you plan to ride on lose gravel? Any mountain biking? How would you rate your physical fitness? Are you in the US? For 5'7" are you proportional (not abnormally long legs or arms, short torso, etc.)?
>>1945151Also your budget is up to $1500, what would you ideally like to spend? The Cypress 2/3 is a lot less than that. Are you okay with buying online and doing some minimal assembly or would you prefer to buy from a local bike shop?
>>1945151>>1945152 I may have to do dirt roads at some point, but I'm mostly considering city street riding. No real interest for gravel or MTB right now. My $1500 price range was made since I knew that any sub $1000 e-bike was probably going to suck. I'd really only spend that much for an e-bike (assuming it's of passing quality). Otherwise I would shoot for a road bike within the sub 1000$ range. I live in America and have a 32" inseam, which I've been told is long for someone my size. I consider myself somewhat fit, I walk alot and have a job where I stand up most of the time. I'd prefer to just buy online and assmble it myself to keep my options. I live near the base of a mountain so there's alot of aggresively steeped hills (I actually have to go up at least one hill to leave my suburb), and long roads with less steep rolling hills. Travel a bit further and it flattens out more, but If I ever want to go 10 miles to or from my house I have to navigate through those hills.
Just ordered a brand-new 2022 KTM Chicago 292 in the oak version for 580 euros. Did I fuck it up?
>>1945157For general cruising I'd recommend an upright, flatbar gravel bike with no front suspension, hydraulic brakes, and a 1x11 or 1x12 SRAM Apex or Eagle wide range drivetrain for simplicity and weight savings with plenty of gearing range for steep inclines. I say gravel because it they're a little heavier duty while still being lightweight so you can tackle light mountain bike trails, put on wider tires if the fork allows it, and ride down stairs and over potholes without breaking something.E-bikes are fun and make hill climbs easy, but if you want something with quality components that isn't excessively heavy and has a quality battery that you don't have to worry about burning your house down then you're gonna need to spend more. I'm of the buy once cry once mentality.Motobecane (French) makes good bikes that are a better value than the major brands you typically find in bike shops.This one for $700 is a better buy than the Cypress 3. Steel frame and forks, Shimano Apex 1x11, 44x11-42T, Shimano MT201 Hydraulic Brakes, 700x42 Kenda Tireshttps://bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/flat-bar-road-bikes/strada-express-1by-commuter-flatbar-road.htmSlight upgrade in components for $900https://bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantomcrosscomp-flatbar-disc.htmSimilar but with a carbon fork, more upgraded components for $1000.https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekickexcomp-discbrake-flatbar.htmFull carbon for $1200. This would be my recommendation if you can afford it.https://bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/gravel-bikes/gravel-cf-express-discbrake-carbon-gravel-bikes.htmI wouldn't bother upgrading the steel bikes, but if you go with the carbon one then later on down the line you can add a titanium seatpost for around $50-100. The weight savings over aluminum is minimal, but it gives a smoother ride.They also have pure road bikes if you don't like the idea of a gravel bike.
>>1945167Then there are options like the Elite Adventure SS12 which an XC bike with 1x12 SRAM Eagle 11-50T, 160mm rotors, and a Manitou Air 100mm Fork for $700. That's an option if you want front suspension. A much better buy than the Cypress 2 imo.
>>1945162You did. For similar money you can get much better at Radon for example.
>>1945184I'm pretty much a newfag in the world of bikes. Should do it's job, also like the aesthetics of this one.
>>1944540I wouldn't buy that. As a potential buyer, if you did that to your bike I can't imagine what else you have done with it.
>>1945167>>1945169 Thank you for the in-depth reccomendations, I will look into these.
>>1945235You're welcome. I'm phone posting so I got the specs wrong, the ones that I said have a steel frame are actually aluminum. You can also look into their premium steel frame bikes labeled as Reynolds/Comfy steel. They're heavy, but surprisingly comfy and will last longer if you take care of them.
What do you guys think of the Surly Bridge Club in 700C, and Surly in general?If I got a second bike, it would be high on my list I think. Are there any alternatives that are trying to hit the same market?Is steel an advantage for tourers? It seems like it would be a detriment and wouldn't provide any useful benefits for a slow tourer trudging through the countryside.
>>1945264>surlyI like that they make ridgid steel bikes and have been for a decade or so since I have known about them.The pros of steel depend on the bike design. That one is probably stiff and strong, so for slow riding it can withstand the heavier load and be easier to repair.For faster racy bikes steel helps "mute" small road vibrations and flexes via tubeset choice or a heavier rider. I have felt this since I weigh 100kg/220lbs and most older road bikes aren't setup for that.
>>1945278>100kg/220kgWould a steel frame make a difference for someone who isn't an American?
>>1945278It's definitely toward the top of my list. I've got a 29 inch hardtail right now, which I bought to attack some of the local (not super intense but some can be challenging) trails and just as a general use bike. I would like to eventually work up to starting to do longer whole-day or multi-day tours, and maybe eventually attempt a cross country trip.
>>1945281>DYEL postinganyways yeah if you carry enough stuff then steel can either give you a more compliant ride, or an easier to repair ride.Aluminum doesn't rust, but harder to repair.Carbon.... well we all know about that.So really the difference for say a 175lb rider is that if your bike is specced for comfort while being steel the ride will be less harsh. If it's specced to carry a lot of weight, or be a track bike(stiff) it will be harsh more like aluminum, but easier to repair.>>1945293I would do your first longer trips on the 29er, and if you enjoy it then look at ridgid bikepacking bikes like the surly.
>>1945264their bikes seem cool.the argument against them that I used to see (and I never checked it out, personally) was that the steel tubes they use are basic and unimpressive yet they charge for them as if they were Reynolds or Columbus.but basically nobody makes steel frames anymore so Surly has the market cornered and can charge accordingly. I guess it makes sense but if steel maters enough to you that you're going to buy it in the 21st century, seems like you ought to get nice tubes in the deal. but where are you going to find them?
>>1945309Surly is butted 4130, made in Taiwan. That's basic cromo but it's not bad. Reynolds and Columbus both make tubesets at that level, 520 and Aelle respectively, plus others. Lots of solid old bikes have a similiar spec, old Diamondbacks are kinda the same. Ride varies from quite good to meh. Then again if you spec 36 spoke wheels and marathons everything is gonna ride meh. Also disc brakes ARE an advantage for a wide tire tourer. So >muh vintage bike, is less valid to say here. I tour on rim though lol. I think the frame is around $600. The price isn't unreasonable, it's just not a brand which is knocking on the door of absolute value. Gunnar sold Ox Platinum / 853 framesets at $1400 before they shut down (rip). That was the low-cost high end for steel. A full built new bridge club is like $1400. >>1945264>Surly Bridge Clubalways thought they looked excellent but would prefer 2x or 3x>Surly in generalUsed to be more prevalent but i've seen a lot of really cool people riding long tours on Long Haul Truckers and Crosschecks and their meme fat tire bikes. I think they're bikes for people who really ride. Surly also has a proper Lineage. Surly and Soma were both offshoots of Breezer which is an OG. The PLP video tour of Soma goes into this history of it. It's quite interesting, including their long pre-war links from San Fran to Japan. >Is steel an advantage for tourers?Yes but then again 'touring' is too vague a term and many good touring bikes are made of other materials. Basically it's more durable. If i could only have 1 bike, it would be sportier. Imo surlies are very good when you spec them for full racks/baskets and load them. On tour, yes, also in town this is useful as a shopping/beater, however, do you want your shopping/beater to cost that much money? That's the real question. Imo the viability depends on how bad the theft is where you live. Also, do you want your heavy basket bike to be an e-bike?
>>1945309>>1945321What do you guys think of the Reynold's 520 and 853 steel frame bikes from Motobecane and Mercier? Also why steel over a good aluminum or carbon frame? Is it just for hipster and nostalgia fags? I just ride bikes, I don't know much about them.$600: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/disc-brake-road-bikes/kilott-gx-t16-gravel-flatbar-bikes.htm$700: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/cafe-strada-4130-discbrake-steel-flatbar.htm$1000: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/cafe-noir-discbrake-steel-flatbar.htm$1000: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/cafe-premio-discbrake-steel-flatbar.htm$1200: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-4130-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm$1200: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-4130-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm
>>1945264>Is steel an advantage for tourers? It seems like it would be a detriment and wouldn't provide any useful benefits for a slow tourer trudging through the countryside.The weight difference is marginal on a loaded tourer or grocery bike, and your aero penalty from panniers will be more significant. >That one is probably stiff and strong, so for slow riding it can withstand the heavier load Aluminium and Carbon as materials are stiffer and stronger than steel for the weight, and most Mtb and Gravel bikes are designed for heavier riders and loads. They're not more likely than steel to break under regular touring use. >and be easier to repair.I've had racks welded on tour. The whole idea of breaking your frame and having it welded somewhere though, is a kind of ridiculous niche that only really applies to people doing some -extreme- touring in the developing world with a particular ethos. It's not a real factor. In most cases it would actually be cost prohibitive or not possible to find the right person, to do a proper repair, so at best you're just putting a bandaid to get you to the next place to buy a different bike anyway, in which case, you could just take a bus or hitch a ride. You can also ireperably crash and wreck any bike, steel or not. it's kinda like how people buy SUVs in the city because of the memes about adventure but they could just as easily go skiing or car camping in a hatchback and then they just have a heavier car for no reason except they thought it was cool. The real advantage is that it fails in a kinder mode and takes damage better, from transportation, crashes and parking it. Also you can clamp things to it. It's not stronger -riding- but it's better suited to damage from extraneous bullshit which makes it both more reliable to live with, and not more capable for any actual riding.
>>1945322Frame building is not a nothing skill and both the ride quality and reliability of a bike does not solely depend on the tubeset used.A surly frame is going to be 'better' at any level of spec, than something from bikesdirect, because the manufacturing and design has more effort, time and money put into it. As for bikesdirect, I still think they can be excellent bikes, but for a skilled mechanic to buy. Not only are you going to want to fully overhaul the bike out of the box, re-true the wheels and repack the bearings, but also not unlikely want to chase some threads, or fix alignment. Where you lose on the high value bikes is a hurried and poor quality assembly. It is not as simple as just putting the wheels on and turning a few bolts like they say. Actually you don't have to be a skilled mechanic, but you have to want to be a skilled mechanic, and be quite diligent about learning things and doing things. Otherwise the value is a false economy. I think buying a bikesdirect bike is much the same as buying a used bike. And if you have a good used market I would also recommend considering that.
>>1945278>>1945305>>1945309>>1945321>>1945323Damn guys nice answers thanks for the info. Maybe in time I'll be riding a bridge club.
>184cm height>80kg weight>will use it in the city to go and come from work>budget is 1k eurodollars
>>1945336Do ithttps://youtu.be/ztpcWUqVpIg
>>1945321>The PLP video tour of Soma goes into this history of it.Link? All I see are his reviews of certain models.
>>1945419https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sE__QreC5Y
>>1945426Awesome. Love the bit about Grant complaining about the friction shifters.
completely new to bikes. want to get one for short home-work commutes about 15km. read about low maintenance bikes and found about fixies and the fact that there is no freewheeling so I'd really like to get one and get in shape. I work at a hospital so if I sweat like a pig I can take a shower when I get there. rec me budget fixies up to 500 bucks. my height is 6'0 and my weight is 170lbs.
>>1945454Buy usedyour settis are same as mine lolWhat's your location, that info is useless without it
>>1945264Surly is QBP. Frames from Maxway. Surly actually does do R+D on some of the weird fat tired lardass bikes they run. QBP wants you to do custom builds at your LBS, so the completes tend to be priced badly. More elegant frames are available from others, but if you wanted elegant you don't want surly in the first place.>Bridge club. Also examine gravel bikes in general, especially if you aren't running a loaded front. This is your n+1, as if you're a dedicated on road rider, you have something lighter and faster. If you're an offroad rider, you probably have something lighter, and with a suspension fork for much less. They call this niche "adventure bikes", but I see very few of them offroad ever. Also good for giant fatasses. That dude who was asking for bikes @ 350 pounds? This would work, at a premium budget.>>1945281If you want more plush than endurance road, and dont' care about weight. Steel has a different ride quality. >>1945322BD uses Maxway as well. They frequently use the same designs as Surly. Their QC is a step lower. BD tends to cheaps out on some of the other parts, and of course there's the whole assembly thing. Surly's price usually includes LBS support from whoever you bought it from. The most famous BD clone is their LHT clone. >>1945454At that commute absolutely anything will work. I wouldn't write off the shitheap entry level hybrids. Compare the entry level Jamis Beatnik, Coda and Allegro at about the same price. You would have to be a dumbass to take the Beatnik over the other two.
>>1942704I don't want to be negative, but I agree with the others, too much rust and bad components going on.
>>1945360Get a used road bike for 200€, mtb clips with shoes for another 200€, lights for 50€ and waterproof cycling clothes for 200€. Anyway, you can't get a new good bike and gears for 1k€. Cycling clothes are often smaller than said size, so you can even get new clothes for 10€.
>>1942704the quill stem is overextended and needs a clean/grease . That's why the rear brake cable has come out of its stops on the frame. I think it's altus. Perfectly fine bike. quick release wheels is good. decent rims As for being light, you can do better. the gripshift kinda sucks
>>1941652>182cm >90kg >budget $850 >location: PolandI need a fast and light bike for commuting to work and any other transportation. Will be riding on paved roads mostly, but sometimes on gravel and very bumpy roads. Honestly as I looked a lot of bikes fit that standard. I have an old cross/mtb bike but its really heavy and doesn't ride smooth. I was thinking about a gravel bike which combines the speediness of a road bike with the ability to take fucked up roads. Pic related something i was thinking about be good
>>1945534just get a road bike. 30-35 is the tire size you want and practically all entry level disc road bikes will fit that now. gravel bike is overkill and only makes sense if you want to actually do gravel riding like really or put front & rear racks for big grocery shops or touring.
>>1945539I have paranoia about the tires. Wondering if such treads will be fine. But well I can just change them they are not expensive.
>>1945545Comfort on gravel and bumpy roads comes from thin sidewalls and tread. The absolute most durable tires, like Marathon Plus, are the least comfortable, and the absolute most comfortable tires, like Veloflex Masters, Challenge, Rene Herse, are the least durable. Saying you want a bike to be fast and good on rough roads and have bombproof tires is completely meaningless. You can try to have relatively high stats across the board by spending money but you're not really being clear about your priorities.It's an irritating thing that most noobs do, they go and think their roads are uniquely rough and the occasional bit of dirt requires some new paradigm with bikes, but comfort and durability for those two things and what they might mean are entirely contradictory. And yes, you can change the tires. What matters is just getting wide enough clearance.
>>1945545Also, if you're worried about grip, pure road tires, especially the more expensive ones, like GP5000, have extremely good grip for their size, on and off road. What -doesn't- have good grip is usually cheaper hybrid/city tires, even ones with tread, which you may think is what you want but which probably isn't.
>>1945534probably the one actual thing that matters for riding on 'rough roads' is that you get a bike with a cromoly steel or carbon fork, not an aluminium one. After tire choice, that impacts ride quality the most, and many entry level bikes will cheap out on that piece of fork spec. It's basically what distinguishes a good frameset from a poor one.
>>1945549Yeah I'm a noob, didn't own many bikes before. Not a road bike for sure. Just wanted to know if it can take a bit of a beating. But well its a bike not a piece of glass. And desu comfort and bike don't really go together, i will feel the bumps either way. Just don't want the thing to break. >>1945550>>1945552Thanks will keep in mind.
>>1945323you know people ride steel for the feel though, right? I mean it absolutely has an advantage in that regard, and may even reduce fatigue on long rides.
>>1945391god damn, wtf is wrong with us?
>>1945454can you elaborate on why a fixie would be an advantage over a single-speed for your commuting?
>>1945464>"settis" outside of ylifirst time I heard this lmao
>>1944129>swept-back handlebars
>>1945565the freewheels cogs that go on track hubs are toy-grade unreliable pieces of shit for bmx bikes
and freewheeling in general is a waste when you're not in a situation that calls for it like taking downhill corners at 70 km/h, it encourages being lazy (so you ride slowly and inefficiently) and sitting with your ass on the saddle without pedaling (so you're less comfortable)
and you waste brake pads when you can't modulate your speed with your legs in city traffic, especially the low quality pads that a singlespeed bike is likely to have get worn out immediately if you ride fast in bad weather or whatever
>>1945360>>1945534this is adequate for most purposes, it has a curved carbon fork and generally good design for endurance comfort by a top brand, 28mm tire clearance is adequate, you might squeeze 30-32mm in if you deflate the tire to get it past the brake calipers. buying used can make sense but it can be a headache to try to find a good value for your money when you factor in replacement parts and the maintenance needed to get the bike to work to its full potential.https://www.trekbikes.com/pl/pl_PL/rowery/rowery-szosowe/rowery-szosowe-wyczynowe/domane/domane-al/domane-al-2-rim/p/33037/
25-26mm is still considered normal for road riding, 23mm was an option just five years ago, now people mostly ride 28mm, high quality 28mm tires are fine even for very poorly maintained roads and typical dirt roads and gravel paths
>>1945579Man I'm a real poorfag if a beginners bike is like 300 dollars more than my budget, which I already inflated. Maybe I should look into used ones. Or is Trek just an expensive brand.
>>1945627this might be a good deal, it's in your size (L)it's not a top brand but looks good enough with a carbon fork, shimano groupset etchttps://www.decathlon.pl/p/rower-szosowy-romet-huragan-1/_/R-p-X8836963?mc=8836963&snrai_campaign=vQdGsDy78g39&snrai_id=4d6ce137-d8dc-4bb1-8101-c0ac6ac196fcbut yeah you could look at used bikes or maybe flat bar hybrid bikes
ah they have goofy size recommendations, but L/56cm is normally the right size for like 175-185cm according to other manufacturers
L is for 178-188cm on the official websitehttps://romet.pl/rower-szosowy-romet-huragan-1-2023-11
>>1941652Looking for a reliable commuter bike. I need to commute 30-40mins(one way) 12KM in the city with mix of good and poor roads.Would like to cycle during winter before being forced to take the bus. I'm around 5ft11 155lbs. Think of a hybrid bike such as Marin Fairfax 2. Anyone have any recommendations or what to look for?
>>1945658just get a road bike
>>1945659will a road bike be reliable as a hybrid? I'll be riding it 5 days a week to work so need reliability. I was reading the hybrid are more durable/reliable but I just wonder since they use larger tires
>>1945660nonsense>will a road bike be reliable as a hybrid?Yes, if not more so. >they use wider tires That Marin has 35mm tyres. Most road bikes now fit that.
>>1945663do you have any recommendations of models to look at? I'll make a list. I want to keep my budget to under 1k
>>1945659I second this.I think surly even makes steel gravel/road frames and sells full bikes.I think the reliability of steel is worth the 2 pounds more weight on a commuter bike.Fit 30-40mm tyres and you're set for every road.
>>1945665>>1945667Found it, surly preamble.Under or around your 1k mark.
>>1945668thanks, I'll look into that one and see if I can get it in leafland. I'll look into steel but would aluminum actual break faster?
>>1945665anything with an aluminium frame, carbon fork and claris or sorathen go on fit and colours you like.
>>1945634https://romet.pl/rower-gravelowy-romet-finale-2023https://romet.pl/rower-gravelowy-romet-aspre-1-2023-13https://romet.pl/rower-szosowy-romet-huragan-1-2023-5How would you rate these 3, one of them is the one you linked. Don't compare the prices and frame sizes for now. Just raw components. Or which ones best. I do enjoy the green one but its almost 4kg heavier than the red one.
>>1945761>I need a fast and light bike for commuting to work and any other transportation. Will be riding on paved roads mostly, but sometimes on gravel and very bumpy roads.>fast and lighti would personally prefer the one i linked by a lot. it will be significantly faster on paved roads and feel lighter and more responsive. the deeper shape of the fork and the downtube will improve stiffness and aerodynamics, at the expensive of some comfort/compliance but with high quality 28mm tires like for example gp 4 season or gp 5000 it will ride like a dream compared to any cheaper bike. professional cyclists ride for many hours on 25-28mm tires so you will be fine on your shorter commutes. the green one is chromoly steel which is good if maybe you're worried about damaging a carbon fork when locking the bike up at a bike rack or something like that, but it will be more sluggish on the road, a bit more like an SUV rather than a race car.
The question is: "Would you?"
>>1945977Yeah guess it will be my final choice, thanks man. It also has a great price on decathlon, the link you sent. Funny enough they state an L size is too big for me, but on every other site, even manufactures, it says L frame is good for my 182cm ass
>>1941652so my shitty old beater bike broke and im considering buying a new one, i live in a rural area and id be doing 50/50 road/trails, should i buy a hybrid or used gravel/cyclocross? as far as i searched, everyone seems to think hybrids are dogshit and not worth the time if you are looking for an all rounder bike, and that the straight handlebars (that most hybrids have) suck, but i dont know shit about bikes. does anyone know any decent gravel bikes that would be around 500 secondhand?
So, I pulled the trigger on this bike (NURIDE HYBRID SLX 750 ALLROAD), on account of my shit hips. They allow me to hop on a normal bike now, but might not do so in a few years time. I should also not really be cycling long distances under fully my own power, which sucks. I hope this bike will allow me to tour with a clear consciousness, knowing well that I won't be destroying my hip replacement too quickly in the process.I love the large battery. I'll be using this bike as a commuter and car replacement to move within the area, and looks pretty perfect to me if a bit overkill.Shit's a bit of a weird bike but all of my bikes tend to be weird. Low entry, mountain bike specs, electric, fenders, and will soon have a rack for functionality.
>>1946463What kind of trails? Just maintained dirt roads and gravel or something more akin to light mountain biking or cross country?If it's just the formed go for a gravel bike with road bars. They're actually the majority of gravel bikes. Can you explain why you like road bars? I hate having to be leaned over so I use flatbars.
>>1946522That thing better have a removable battery with standard 18650 cells or you just bought a piece of eWaste.
>>1946522People with hip replacements aren't supposed to be mobile? I don't understand.
>>1946527The battery is fully removable. It's locked under a key. It apparently has 21700 cells. Nothing e-wasteful about this bike I think. It uses a bosch drive system, and those aren't going out of fashion any time soon. >>1946532When you have a hip replacement and it's fresh, your hip has a reduced range of motion temporarily. When you get revision surgery (replacement of a replacement), the outcome is frequently not as good so there might be recommendations to reduce the range of leg abduction, so hopping on a normal bike could get tricky if you are carrying shit on the rear.On top of it, when you get a hip replacement, you should avoid overusing the joint in order to try and prolong its useful life. At least this is my case as a part of my replacement unfortunately uses polyethilene, due to some complications at the surgery time. Had there been no complications, i would have a ceramic on ceramic hip, which is pretty much friction free and would have allowed me to cycle as much as I want.
>>1946532It's not like we are not mobile, but we have to mind our hip replacement at all times to delay revision surgery. Should not run, should not jog, should not lift as heavy as I want at the gym, and shouldn't do touring where I cycle 70 KM a day. I can, it would just be a terrible idea.Goes double when you get a hip replacement at the age I got it (30), as adults will wear them out faster, whereas elderly will likely die before getting a new one, so they don't get to suffer replacement surgery and it's worse off outcomes.
>>1946536That's good to hear about the battery. I see people buying bikes with batteries that are integrated into the frame and can't be removed without potentially damaging the cells and causing a fire which is retarded. Quality 21700s are easy to find. I saw a bike company that told people to buy a new bike then their batteries wear out, lol.
>>1941652I need a bike to commute, ideally cheap, foldable, and motorized if possible. I doubt all three are possible, but I'll take what I can get. Price point under $1700 since poorfag.>TFW too poor to commute by car
>>1946708More info: 5'7", 160# and dropping, up and down steep hills 15 miles to and from work every day.
>>1946708I don't know much about your criteria/bike types but if you have rolling hills remember to pedal hard on the downslope of the hill to get momentum for the climb. Can help on short rolling hills, on long ones ya just suffer.>t. 230lbs
>>1946711I can eat hills, I've walked this distance in summer heat and I used to bike up and down hills in Florida. I once attempted to tow a trailer with it, and got about 100ft before stopping. I should have just pulled it by hand.
>>1946712So you are riding a shitbike? or are trolling me(hills in florida???? I heard it's flat as a pancake out there)Either way if you are looking for easier riding for commuting on hill you want nice road focused tires, applicable gearing, and probably a road bike.The thing is folding bikes weigh more and have compromises, and e-bikes weigh more and have worse parts.Also 1700 isn't much unless you buy used or a simpler bike.Good luck.
>>1946713I have no bike, I was referring to the past (I used to live in the northern part of Florida, which is basically Alabama extended).I can go with a non-folding bike, that was a consideration for bringing it into my workplace (too many niggers where I work to leave it outside).
>>1946715Ah, okay. I just remember hearing the tallest peak of florida is 800ft above sea level, where as near me we have 8000ft(climbing sucks since the air gets thin).I only know road bikes and mtb bikes, and can say a hybrid/commuter with 700c(road) tires will be the fastest. If you can get an e-bike within that range that would for sure be fast. Cheapest yamaha e-bike I saw was 2300usd, maybe a chinese e-bike might be below.Best stuff you can get per dollar will be used, but you need to educate yourself on what's good or not, maybe do some repairs, and be okay with used.If your commute is hilly look for a 2x or 3x crank with at least 8 speeds in the rear so you can shift to low enough gears to not have to stand/mash all the time.Someone should have info on folding bikes. Generally they are slower(on the flats) since they run smaller tires so you have to put out more effort to keep the same speed, but IDK never rode one.
>Entry level full sus or trail hardtail?>fullMore expensiveMore comfortableMore things that can go wrongVersatile>trail hardtailA bit lighterDecent all rounder but not as capable like fsEasy to maintainNot as comfortable but has plus size tires which helpThought? Used to ride some cheaper ht, rode xc fs anthem which was a blast but was too large and aggressive for me in terms of cockpit position. I mostly do quick blasts around town but also love long rides on weekend. Terrain isn't very difficult to ride to warrent a fs bike but i've loved plush ride of anthem. So in a nutshell, im leaning more towards fs but these "trail" hardtails got me thinking. Any recommendation?
>>1946708That's a tough one. The only option I can think of is a used Brompton or a new Brompton A Line with an after market ebike kit like the ARC or Swytch ones designed for Bromptons or a generic one retrofitted to it.
>>1946827I'll warn you tho, it'll be heavy as shit and lacking in quality. If you're not set on folding and electric you can get a good road or gravel bike for $700 brand new or less used from a decent seller. Be careful buying used, there are a lot of Jews selling used bikes for more than they should cost new when a sale is going on along with a lot of boomers that think their $2000 bike from 10+ years ago is still worth anything close to what they paid new.
Recommendations on a 1987 Trek 1000? I've only ever rode MTBs but lately road bikes have piked my interest. I'd buy the cheapest new Trek but I want to test them first. Price is 100 USD. Is that good? I will probably offer like 80 USD kek.
>>1947015No picture so none of us can say for your case particularly... But yea $80 would be a fair price for a working condition old trek road bike.Old roadie's are pretty different than modern, mainly in skinny tires, shitty brakes, and downtube shifters. They're pretty good bikes though, still. But don't base your opinion of road biking around a bike from the 80's
>>1947016This is the bike.
>>1946708this technically fits what you're asking for but i think you'd be happier with a nice normal bikehttps://www.radpowerbikes.com/collections/electric-bikes/products/radexpand-electric-folding-bike?variant=39442977783904
>>1944474Poster here, I looked around some local bike shops and found this. XDS Explorer CT hybrid bike, one of the shops has it in my size. I'm going to use it as a commuter bike for work/grocery shopping/nearby friend's/family's houses to compliment my speedy Trek ALR Checkpoint 4 gravel bike. Thoughts? It's light weight with 7 speed options
>>1947078Fug forgot the link https://xdsbikeco.com/products/explorer-ct
>>1947017alloy frame, steel fork, briddy good.it even comes with a sky high quill stem.just have to be careful that the end of the handlebars does not swing around and hit the toptube
>>1947017So first up, it's an aluminium frame. I wouldn't really recommend vintage aluminium. The ride is quite harsh compared to steel and it's a bit sketchy after several decades. It does have a steel fork i think though. And US aluminium is sort of cool, less so a Trek, but Klein or Cannondale have their adherents, and that Trek is stepping in some quite large footsteps. It's got a replacement front wheel meaning it's probably had a front end crash (possibly just the brake track wore out). So if you got it, i'd service the headset and carefully inspect the steerer tube of the fork. I would also try to ride it no hands before buying, and see how straight it tracks and really put the ol' eyeball to work on the lines of the frameset, especially how well the fork blades align and if they are parallel and equidistant to one another. I think that is a suntour groupset, so modifying it (putting wider gears or even just replacing them due to wear) is tricky. Either that, or the older 600 SIS set, which is a similiar deal. It's not quite new enough to be easy. The best old roadies imo are usually ones with cassette hubs and 7 speed shimano. The stem is clearly hyper extended and dangerous but that's easy to put right. On the plus side, the mavic rim on that rear wheel is quite nice. Those Dia Compe brake levers are ugly but they have aero routing so they're modern and all the ones of those i've seen had good rubber for some reason. The calipers are single pivot but not awful ones. It's kind of just do you like the red/yellow. I would get it, it's a decent bike, but if you have other options you should consider those instead.
>>1947078Nah dude. You do not want new 7 speed shimano. The parts are just too crappy. It also means you get a crappy nutted rear wheel with a threaded cogset. These are prone to bend axles and are extremely low quality. The decent entry level is 8 or 9 speed with Altus or Acera. Or 9/10 Microshift. Actually at that price point I would strongly consider used. Also consider women's models if they're in your size. Having a mixte frame or some such is a major advantage on a beater because you can run a tall rear basket and not have to swing a leg over it.
>>1947123you might be right there, maybe that is a technomic>>1947017if that is a technomic then the stem alone is worth $20-$30 and nice nitto bars, especially newer ones, can have value too. Value as in you can resell it if they don't fit you, and value as in they're really nice parts for you to use.
>>1947125thanks for the input, i figured the price was too low considering how light it was. I'm not really on a budget that low, I'm willing to go like 1.5K for good quality, that bike was just what was available. I looked up the Fairfax and I don't think it's what I want, need something more upright for riding. In terms of women's bikes I was looking at omafiets from the Netherlands but I don't want to deal with international bullshit.
>>1947128Are you at all handy or interested in wrenching? Post your local craigslist and height. It is quite straightforward and sensible to convert many different bikes to upright cruisers. For a new bike like that look at other Marin or Kona hybrids. The 4130 State cromo bikes, the Linus models with cromo forks, and Surly. As long as it's viable to have your bars somewhat above -correct- saddle height you do not need to go insane acquiring some dutch shitter. If fully upright cycling is really what you want then recognize that is a cruiser which will be uncomfortable to actually cycle much or ride up hills, it's not a real practical bike. I even like such cruisers but they have serious limitations and i prefer them to be charming klunky old beaters rather than new bikes. If that's really what you want then you should build it yourself with a smaller budget. The new ones, like the one you linked, are what novice's gravitate towards, and the experience with them is usually poor.
>>1947128also anon, if you have $1500, and you're a fat lazy cunt, then you may enjoy an ebike
>>1947130not interested in building up my own stuff, but thanks for all the other info. I'll look into my options and see what I really need. >>1947132nah part of the reason why I want a commuter bike is to incorporate exercise into my daily stuff as opposed to only spending extra time for it with my gravel bike. E bike won't accomplish that.
>>1947139I find it slightly strange that you have a gravel bike but you think that normal hybrids are too aggressive for your beater. My guess is that you haven't put any effort into fitting your gravel bike and have a gratuitously aggressive fit on that. Your idea that you can't be comfy in normal clothing or have racks on your gravel bike is just nonsense. It's not to say that having a shopping bike is a bad idea just that i don't understand why you think your practical allrounder is not a practical allrounder or if you do like it being setup really racey why it is that your platonic ideal of a beater is some absurd dutch shitter
>>1947139basically anon roadie logic is to setup your bars so that the hoods are in the lowest tolerable position. I think you should setup a gravel bike so that the drops are high enough to ride technical downhill sections in. That probably means bars at saddle height, or higher. You can achieve this with a 35° stem.
>>1947142I have to wear padded pants with this bike otherwise my perineum gets raped >>1947143I'm too retarded to understand what that is. I also still want my gravel bike functioning how it is for different purposes outside of commuter stuff (longer range biking)
2016 Crux E5X1 $1300Excellent condition, how out of pocket is this price? What would be a good deal? The bike looks dreamy and in good condition.https://www.specialized.com/us/en/crux-e5-x1/p/107049?color=195798-10704954cm, I'm 5'11" but as I understand it cyclocross bikes run larger. Plus I have a short torso.
Should i get the purple one with claris groupset, or the black one with sensah empire groupset? Does anyone use those chink groupset? Both are $400 new
>>1947263>cable discdo I need to say it
>>1947263Purple
>>1947265yes tell us how brainwashed by commercials you are that you think you need hydraulic discs for road riding lol
>>1947323t. buyer's remorse cabledisc victim desperately trying to act like he shouldn't have stuck with rim brakes or saved up for a bike with disc brakes that actually work
>>1947263ive never seen a road bike come with a chain stay protector before. i don't know anything about the bikes, but the black one is ugly and probably has cut some corners to be that cheap. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
>>1947325
I'm looking for a good flatbar steel bike for city, dirt road, and gravel riding for around $1000. I've heard mixed things about Motobecane. Can someone recommended something better? I'm looking at these two right now.https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/cafe-noir-discbrake-steel-flatbar.htmhttps://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/cafe-premio-discbrake-steel-flatbar.htmOr maybe save some money and get one of these.https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/disc-brake-road-bikes/kilott-gx-t16-gravel-flatbar-bikes.htmhttps://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/cafe-strada-4130-discbrake-steel-flatbar.htm
>>1947414It's best if you can go into a bike shop look at some bikes and if you like one just buy it.Being a bike online is like buying clothes online. You don't know if it will fit well, and the bike fitting wrong will matter more then getting better parts for the dollar.If you wanted a deal used is king.Bikesdirect has been selling online for decade+ by now. Most likely they use someone else's designs, and put a paintjob and get deals on parts, then sell it to you for cheaper.Still, it's probably a fine bike.
>>1944540Whatever happened, remove the wedge, cut down the seat tube just enough to remove odd cut. Finish and pain. Also paint the spot on the weld infront of the seattube...
>>1945391This is a weird realization. I never realised US-Americans associate only big cities with walkability and cycleability.
Gotten pretty comfortable on my hybrid and looking for a road bike to go a little faster / longer. Doing pretty well financially so can afford to drop 500-600 or so6’2, in the Atlanta area if anything on Craigslist looks good
Why shouldn't I buy this? 853 Reynolds Steel, Carbon Fork, GRX 810 2x11, GRX 810 Hydraulic Brakes, DT Swiss Wheels, fits up to 50C tires. Looks nice for $1900, is there anything better for the price?https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-853-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm
>>1947960looks alright, you should buy it if you like itif you want other men to want to sit on your lap, a canyon grail has a little more brand prestige, if only because motobecane has like no brand prestige at all and canyon at least has a little. but you'll have to wait for canyon to get your bike in stock, so is it worth it? who knows. also maybe you just like steel for some silly reason.
>>1947967Yeah, I don't care about brand name. I want something with good quality/value for the money. I prefer high quality steel and titanium over aluminum and especially carbon fiber for ride quality and durability reasons. Curious if anyone can recommend anything better.
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/bik/d/lithonia-restored-classic-lemond/7663547864.htmlThoughts?
>>1947995I've never heard of Lemond, but 853 Reynolds for that price looks good. All old components, but good quality. A lot of the components are beaten by newer lower end (for example Old Ultegra vs newer mid range Shimano or 3x9 vs 2x11), but I wouldn't worry about it for the price. Seller seems to know what he's talking about and like he took care of the bike. Inspect it for rust and ensure everything was done properly greased when he rebuilt it (bearings, BB, headset, stem, bolts where necessary) and that he didn't strip anything. Make sure it fits you well.I didn't look around to see what other bikes for sale in your area, but if that's the best you can find and everything checks out them go for it.
>>1947995It's a fantastic old roadie with good components for the time. But baby it's 2023. For the same price you can probably get a much lighter modern bike with 1 &1/8 steerer, carbon fork, current gen Shimano, outboard BB bearings. That's a collectors bike.
>>1947988>ride quality and durabilityYou know what aluminum doesn't do? Rust.
>>1948045you know what aluminium isn't? real.
>>1947960The green is cool.
>>1948046
>>1947960>https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-853-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htmIt seems fair but for some reason bikesdirect frames put me off. Maybe I'm just a consoooomer. But I have no idea the research they put into making a good frame, so my brain just assumes they welded steel together.also, just cuz it's 853 doesn't mean it'll be godly. Likely only the main tubes are 853. And you can still make a dull frame with good material. That being said I've generally heard good things from bikes direct, except that to make margins they cheap out absolutely wherever possible. So keep an eye on bolts, bearings, anything that isn't name-brand.
>>1948088I could understand this attitude if you were buying bleeding edge frames from prestige boutique brands but something tells me you're either buying used frames that were state of the art +25 years ago, or mass produced made in china bikes with a mainstream brand like trek or specialized where they have a handful of low production volume superbike frames but mostly not. I know it's said too much and too often but they're all basically the same shit at that level (and that level is quite good, a new mid tier bike from 2023 (or even 2019) is much better than any superbike from 2001 where they "did the research")not telling anon to buy BD or not to buy BD just calling out the flawed reasoning
2021 polygon d7For sale for $750, the price seems almost too good for a full suspension. Is this brand any good? Any mtb anons got any pro tips for inspecting?Is this a retarded first mtb? I'm a skilled mechanic and decent rider but never really dabbled into real mtb.
For 4k cad, what's the most aggressive carbon bike I can get? Have a bunch of shit roads but I wanna go fast fast faster fastee
>>1948765people who want to faster usually have a requirement in mind, and then they see what hardware is out there that fits the requirementyou are larping, because your requirement is to be able to spend $4k, and do not know why
>>1948787Suck my dick faggot.
>>1948813Only if it’s over 8 inches otherwise it is you who sucks mine
Why does it need to be carbon ? Anyways you can probably get a carbon recumbent or streamline velomobile. Those will be your fastest bike options.
>>1948765Chink carbon frame and build it up yourself?
>>1948765What's the most aggressive riding position you can handle? TT? Sprint tri?
What's up with the retard who never replies to people he's replying to
I always thought it was to not give (you)'s to people
Can this thing be a GT timberline?It's Europe here, so these things are not that common.
>>1948765CAD… that’s going to a be a bit trickier. Assuming you want a somewhat conventional road bike, here’s what I have to say. If it were USD I’d look at a Bianchi Oltre Race (I thought the Aria it replaced looked very pleasing on the eyes- same frame except now internally routed)Maybe you can get it at that price there, not familiar with the Canadian market. Looking at a couple shops depending on spec level you could grab a Specialized Tarmac or Cannondale SuperSix. Basically just pick any carbon aero bike available in a spec that fits your budget. If you really want to get into check out the headtube lengths for a given size on Geometry geeks or 99 spokes and compare them.Additional note on the Aria/Oltre Race, Bianchi intended it to be kind of a gateway into TT/Tris - pop on some clip on aero bars and go. As such the frame reflects that- I’m not going to deny it’s very similar to the entry level Sprint, but it is a little tweaked, outfitted a bit differently and more specific in purpose.
>>1948973GT bikes suck imo, they cut corners by using shitty bottom brackets, hubs and rims.This one looks like it went to war, you're better off buying a new bike rather than investing into this shitter
>>1949089well, it's a size 14" anyway...
>>1942611You've had no problem with rims .... except with brake modulation ... which is was the inspiration for hydro discs
>>1941652Is this Bianchi a good one?Can someone identify what year is it from?
>>1944474>>1947078>>1947079Fuck it, I bought it. Took the advice of the people here and it was good but ultimately decided it was my best option. There were some better hybrid bikes I came across but due to their shape, they wouldn't be as comfortable with cruiser bike handlebars and ultimately I want comfort since I already have a gravel bike for speed/durability. Rode it to a few local farmer's markets and it did the trick. Thanks everyone for the suggestions, if this bike fucks up then I know what to look for next time.
MTB enjoyer here. Recently moved to a more urban area on the outskirts of a city and a MTB, even my hardtail, is just overkillI was thinking a gravel bike would be good because I could just have two sets of wheels/tyres, one for gravel and one for road and then... it's basically a road bike right? I've never used a road bike before though, never even used drop bars or peddle clips so sorry if I'm being monstrously retarded.
>>1949298Well road bikes can be like mountain bikes where the geometry can be suited to different disciplines, and then you have tire clearence, material choice, etc.A gravel bike would be a good choice if you have shit roads, or you can find a used hybrid bike which may have flat bars if you want those more.I used to only be a mountain biker but then did some road work. You have to get used to the stretched out seating position and possibly shit brakes(depending on bike). After that it's easy.
>>1949299definitely want drop bars, if I'm going roadie I wanna lean into it properly even if it's out of my zonewe have excellent roads actually, but there are a number of leisure paths/trails that are gravel and I thought maybe a gravel bike would be a good compromise if I did want to use them some days, then just only roads the next, but I'm not sure how much a gravel bike with road tyres would actually hinder that roadie experience and whether I'd regret not just going full tilt into the roadie life and using the hardtail for leisure rides on the pathways
>>1949301I think it depends on your plans. If you have a 29er hardtail and set it up with 2.0 or smaller xc tires for the pathways that could work, then just get a normal road bike.OTOH I have a cyclocross bike and it's plenty fast on the road, and my road bike is fast too.My favorite road rides are bike trails since I don't have to deal with cars and the trails are more mentally stimulating then a long straight road.
i'm in need of a road bike with a front rack à la https://global.bluelug.com/mash-front-rack-matte-black.html. I already have a giant peloton lite which apparently does not have the right brake bolts to accommodate a rack or something??how do i know if a bike has the right shit for a rack to be installed on it (other than eyelets, which are hard to come by in road bikes).i'm currently eyeing pic related
>>1948046wood is goodbamboo is true
I can get this for $1000AU ($650US, £500) brand new. Bear in mind bikes tend to be more expensive in Aus, do you think it's a good deal? It feels like it's spec'd very well and only really skimping on the brakes compared to bikes with much higher price tags.Would just be a commute/hobbyist roadie-railtrail riding kinda bike for when I can't be arsed going on my MTB. Claris and Tektro is probably 'fine' for that right? I would rarely trust Shimano's bottom tier offerings, nor tektro, on a mountain bike but surely roads are fine with weaker brakes? Not like I'll be racing.
>>1949461>1000au=650usfreaking monopoly money holy moly.Should be fine but personally I don't like mechanical disk.I have ridden deore on mtb trails and it's been fine. Lower tier stuff should be fine on the road. If it goes bad you can always upgrade/sidegrade.
6 ft 190 lbsUnder 1kJust need something for gravel trails like hiking trails and comm tower service roads.
>>1949463gravel bike, hardtail/ridgid bike, hybrid bike.Sorry I don't live where you are so I don't know whats a deal or not.Used tends to have better deals, but new can be fine especially now.
>>1949462I'm considering putting a bit more money down actually cause I've noticed that's an AL fork and we don't have the worst roads around here but they aren't perfect and I'm told carbon forks really help
>>1949464USA
>>1949465I know on older steel bikes carbon forks were stiffer and allowed superior descending prowess.Not sure about newer bikes but a nicer bike is nicer and in that price range you do get benefits upgrading.>>1949479I would go to a local bike shop and check out some bikes. Then either look online for deals on them or just buy at a shop. This is a pretty good dealhttps://www.marinbikes.com/bikes/2023-bobcat-trail-5#buyin large 29eror this in a large or medium/largehttps://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/mountain-bikes/cross-country-mountain-bikes/marlin/marlin-7-gen-2/p/33148/?colorCode=bluedark_greyThe newer trek marlin 7 gen 3 has basically the same parts, just 100usd more since it's newer.The reality is you can get a deal if you look around since companies are flushing out older inventory. I still recommend checking a local shop since then you can see the bikes in person, and if you bring your phone you can see what they cost online from the manufacturer.Also a local shop could be holding onto a slightly older bike for cheap. The things that seem important around that price range are hydraulic disk brakes, non-square taper bottom bracket, and 1x with at least 9 speeds. I recommended these since I don't know how gnarly your tracks are, and they should do everything okay.
>>1949485my first ever bicycle was a 1997 marin bobcat trail that i inherited from my dad when i was 8mad that they're still going with that model name
>>1949485Was looking at this, does this look like a decent deal?
>>1941652I've landed a new job with a 30-40min ride commute so wondering what type of bike I should get. The roads are pretty shit so thinking of a gravel or hybrid. I want to keep it under 1k
>>1949532Seems fine enough. You get hydraulic disc brakes and 24 speeds which means it's a 3x8. Just make sure it doesn't feel too small in person, since we don't know what size it is.
2012 CAAD 10, Full SRAM Red., $900I feel like I've seen people hyping up these old Cannondale frames. I don't know shit about SRAM though so don't know what level Red is on. 105 tiier I assume?
>>1949713I've been a shimano baby my whole life so Im pretty curious about SRAM. Heard their front mechs suck dick tho
>>1949713Internet says it's top of the line sramhttps://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/groupsets/groupset-road/sram-red-2012-group-review/?image=9&type=gallery&gallery=1&embedded_slideshow=1Another clue is the mavic ksyrim wheels. I know those are nice.
>>1949716I have only used their mtb stuff. I found there shifts to be more "snappy" then shimano.... but that's for mountain bikes.Only ever used campagnolo road groupsets.
>>1949717>>1949718Oh damn ok... so $900 probably isn't far off the mark? It seems a lot for a decade old bike but I guess it cost $3k+ back then
what kind of glasses should I buy for night rides? some of these fancy car lights rape my eyes, so I'd like to tune this down a bitand I can't see shit in my daytime photochromic ones
>>1949782https://www.reddit.com/r/whichbike/comments/16mr5fu/2012_cannondale_caad10_full_sram_red_10spd_900_usa/interesting seeing the same bike posted somewhere else.
>Rim brake, full 105 (shifting and brakes) aluminium road bike>Disc brake, tiagra shifting, mechanical tektro brakes, aluminium road bikeBoth are the same price and otherwise identical, just one is mechanical disc and the other is rim. I'm gravitating toward the better spec'd rim brake bike because mechanical discs suck anyway, tektro sucks anyway and it will be a better bike. Yet it will be less upgradable because fancy wheels and shit are almost all disc brake only these days.
>>1949899Better rim brake bike.If you have a more modern bike you should be able to get a disk brake fork, then just get a front disk brake which is worth a lot and when you want a big stop what ya need.Rear as a rim is fine anyways and if you do lots of braking for long periods a rim won't warp/get fucky where as a rotor can.Shitty mechanical disk brakes are bad and don't even stop as good as a good rim brake.I don't think rim brake parts are going anywhere until maybe 20+years from now.
>>1949900Cheers I was having the exact same thoughts as this, have used mech tektro discs on XC bikes and they're shite. I'll grab the better rim brake bike and buy some spare pads at the same time (comes with pic related which /bqg/ told me were good pads)
>>1949902Yeah I chucked some old promax disk brakes and ordered shimano mt200's for 30usd off ebay.
>>1949899There's plenty of solid rim brake wheels for sale new and used. Could even build your own wheels. Everything else is as upgradeable or moreso than the disc bike.Only reason I'd consider a worse spec disc bike was for a gravel/allroad bike situation were I need dat tire clearance. Or if the rim brake bike had cantis. Sorry guys but I've fucking had it with cantis.
Guys what do you think about this bike? Its $330 and it comes with Tiagra groupset. I know that cable disc suck, but i have spare rim brakes
>>1950169Forgot pic
>>1950169>but i have spare rim brakesyou can't just chuck rim brakes on a disc bike
How come groupsets sell for more than bikes that come with the fucking groupsets
>>1950209The manufacturers buy the groupsets for less than you as a consumer can. If they then mark down a model to move stock it can very well be that the bike ends up costing less a new groupset.
>>1950210I'm amazed that I could actually buy this bike that's for sale, a brand new branded good mid range bike, and bastardise the groupset for a new build for less than i could buy the groupset itself off the shelf forand thats not even considering how much i could get selling the frame and wheels on ebay
>>1950209Well, this one is only $480 carbon frame with 105
>>1950211The wonders of globalism continue to bless us every waking day
>>1950209You're not doing a fair comparison. It's also possible to buy groupsets at a lower cost.
>>1950209seems like we had a thread with a discussion going on this a few days ago but it 404'd
>>1950220where's the 105? the shift lever?
I realised I posted in the wrong thread, reposting here:I'm planning to buy a used folding bike. 26", no suspension, aluminium frame. By the pictures it looks to be well maintained if not well ridden, some plastic parts show bleaching but otherwise looks okay. Of course I will test it and look it over before buying.Planning to use it soonish, going to a business trip for a week. Transit takes up an hour and car parking is a nightmare so planning to reduce travel time from hotel to the company.Do you think it is a far fetched idea? The bike has "pininfarina" written on it and price is about $240
Are single speed bikes with mudguard eyelets not a thing or am I not looking hard enough? I'm looking for a reasonably-priced commuter I won't have to cry over if it gets stolen. The simpler the better - I want to minimise maintenance. Mudguards are my only non-negotiable. Decathlon has a single speed bike for €250 that I'd jump on if I could be sure mudguards could be fitted.Any advice?
>>1950240In the USA or EU probably but we aren't all living in large economies with good stock levels and secondhand markets
>>1950318I looked at that decathlon bike and it does not have mudguard mounts in the rear, indeed.If its tire clearance is <= 32mm, you can try looking at SKS raceblade pro XL mudguards.
i have absolute complete and utter decision paralysis over what bike to buy myself
>>1950376Get the one that has the best paintjob, or the best deal. Remember, as the rider what you do is way more important then the bike
>>1950378I'm not even really sure what type of bike I wantI just moved countries and didn't bring my bike with me. My favourite type of riding is gravel riding but where I live now is a good 10-20km+ of road riding from any gravel trails. I don't drive and I don't ever intend to so I figure just getting a roadbike is best but road bikes don't excite me. I want to buy with my heart not my mind, but my mind tells me getting a nice 1x gravel bike will end in disappointment on the roads (where I'll spend the most time), but getting a roadbike will end up in disappointment on the gravel (where I'll have most fun).
>>1950379Get a cyclo-cross bike.
>>1950407I'm not exactly a racer and I kinda didnt pay attention to them cause I thought they were just race bikes, but if I up my budget a little I have found a couple cyclo-cross bikes that look appealing. I'll keep looking, thanks for the idea
>>1950407>>1950413https://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/cyclocross-bikes/2020/vic/kunyung/cx-gravel/117627119How sketchy is buying this likely user-built chinese carbon cyclocross bike? It's AU$1700 aka US$1100 and has some ridiculous components for it's price>Sram force axs drive train.>fulcrum db 500 Carbon WheelsMight try give him a cheeky offer
>>1950414Cyclocross bikes are literally shittier than gravel bikes on tarmac. Forget about that shit
>>1950416how can that be so? surely they have geometry more in line with road bikes, and are typically going to be lighter and run less aggro tyres too? what am i missing
>>1950417The tires are either painful to ride on asphalt or ass on dirt.
>>1950417Geometry is completely different as well
>>1950413>>1950414Don't listen to the faggot talking out of his ass. I own one that's why I gave you the suggestion. It's really nice to ride on tarmac. I run 32mm tires but could go even wider if I wanted to go more in the gravel direction. Regarding used carbon I can't give you any real advice but I'd stick to aluminum especially when buying used. Mine is aluminum and it feels extremely sturdy.>>1950420>The tires are either painful to ride on asphalt or ass on dirt.Wow almost as if the choice of tire has an impact on how you ride on different surfaces. Thank god this isn't an issue on any other type of bike.>>1950422>Geometry is completely different as wellThat's crazy! A different style of bike has a different frame geometry? Shocking!
>>1950424>It's really nice to ride on tarmacCompared to what? Both gravel and normal roadbike are better but you're limiting yourself to a shitty UCI meme from decades ago since you're poor
>>1950420Such is life, huh? What does the bike has to do with it?
>>1950427You have a more upright riding position due to the shorter frame so you're not as aero™. But unlike grabbel bikes cyclo-cross bikes typically run proper road groupsets. If you then run wider road bike tires like I do a cyclo-cross will 100% outperform a gavel bike.
>>1950429>But unlike grabbel bikes cyclo-cross bikes typically run proper road groupsets. They don't?
>>1950429cyclocross bikes traditionally run a FULL retard front cogset of 46-36You could very well have a bigger big boy gear than that on a grabbel machine, hell, the entry level ones mostly spec a 50/34 sora compact or some shit and that is faster in every direction than your traditional cyclocross crankset . And more road-esqueRoad cassettes.... Dura Ace now is 11-30 or 11-34
>>1950446dura ace is at most 11-28 I thought
>>1950448not in the 12 speed era my friendDura Ace by default is now 11-34, Almost like it has received trickle down technology from Sora or Alivio.
>>1950424>That's crazy! A different style of bike has a different frame geometry?Some people need it spelled out to them. Shocking indeed.
>>1950446>50/34 sora compactOfc that's more road-esque because it's a road groupset and not a gravel groupset.
>>1950446The standard for gravel 2x is 46/30, mate
>>1950449how horrible
me over here enjoying my 46/36 like it's the devils crankset on the road.
>>1950497
>>1950427>shitty UCI memearent basically all bikes uci bikes these days (genuine question, not trying to get involved in the argument because im a retard who doesnt know about this stuff)
>>1950446have just checked 12 random gravel bikes online and all the ones with sora came with 46/30 except one giant that did 48/32 and all the higher end gravel specific ones did 46/30 as >>1950453 noted
>>1950446>big boy gearyou averaging 30 mph or somethin ?
Bike I'm looking at has 'small-medium' and 'medium-large' sizes, no mediumthe cross over for these two sizes is exactly my height (172cm, sm/md goes up to 172cm and md/lg goes down to 171cm on the suggested sizing chart)i cannot go to the shop to check it out for myself but its a pretty good deal on a bike that ticks all my other boxes, which would you guys suggest I pick? it's a road bike btw
>>1950546Sounds like trek.Depends on you and your body.If you have a longer torso go for medium long. If you have a shorter torso small-medium, or medium long.Reality is both will work, and until you ride more bikes you won't know what you like.
>>1950549>If you have a longer torso go for medium long. If you have a shorter torso small-mediumI dont know if i have a longer torso or a shorter torso
>>1950546it's often said that it's easier to make a slightly too small bike fit than a slightly too large fit but your ape index can also tilt the decision slightly
>>1950550you probably have an average torso then. don't bother measuring. you'll get it wrong and make a rash decision. if it's never been an issue before, you have an average ape index.t. have a very not average ape index and I've known it for a while
>>1950552>>1950551I just measured my 'wingspan' for an ape index of 1.023 (172 tall 176 span)I have heard my mum joke about my dad having monkey arms and being a good swimmer, but honestly I've never noticed it cause I hate the water and don't swim often
>>1950553You are probably fine with either then. Maybe the medium/long will fit better but it's impossible to know 100%.
>>1950557thanks, takes the edge off, will probably go sm/md because that also includes my fiance's height and maybe it'll be able to be used by us both
Thoughts on Canyon in general and the Canyon Spectral 125 al 5? I have a shitty 27.5" bike with the usual one step above trash Shimano, Tektro parts and a zoom fork that compresses half way when I get on the bike. I don't plan to do anything crazy, just some fast riding on beaten paths with some roots and foot high mounds.Is a fully overkill, or is the comfort worth it? Might also get a hardtail for 400 bucks less but I'm curious and have cash to burn.
Coming here from >>1950619 anons convinced me to waste some money so let's go>Height: 174cm / 5ft8>Weight: 80kg / 176lb>Budget: 7000PLN / 1700USD>Usage: >Getting into the hobby. Already did 100km ride, want to go for 160 (100mi) soon. Don't want to avoid gravely routes. I guess my best bet is some gravel/road plus bike.Currently thinking about: Merida Silex 400 - I love the looks. It's also quite under budget that's cool. Cube Nuroad Race - I think it's the best shit I can get in my budget, it's hard to find though. Also looks dope. Tops up the budget unfortunately.X Road Elite GR - I like the single front cog drivetrain, seems more durable.I'm open for anything else pretty much. I feel like I could go for something more road-oriented like Meridia Scultura Endurance but I have no idea how to decide.
>>1950617>Canyon Spectral 125 al 5?Yeah it looks fine.overkill? probably but if you want both experiences you can always get a ridgid mtb from the 90's. >>1950663They all look pretty similar. The reason to go 1x vs 2x is if you are okay with loosing some cadence efficiency by having larger gaps in your cogs.The cube has a 46/30 with a 34 tooth rear, so you won't get a ton of range there for easier gears compared to the 40/42 superior.The cube will have a higher top end with the 46/11 vs 40/11.merida has the 36 tooth cassette so you will have an even lower gear, that can be swapped out like on the cube incase you like that more.Realistically this would be where I care since all 3 of the bikes have similar parts.Do you want more range+more consistent cadence? Or do you want a lighter+simpler setup?I did just notice the merida is a 10 speed vs the 11 speed cube and superior.11 speed stuff is newer, 10 speed stuff is slightly more durable and parts are cheaper for repair.However that means the merida will have larger gaps in the cassette as a 11-36 10 speed vs the 11-34 11 speed.
>>1950671Thank you anon. Realistically I think going for 1x would be a better option since I'm tech illiterate and don't really have patience to learn.>Realistically this would be where I care since all 3 of the bikes have similar parts.So from what I gather, the differences are marginal enough to the point I can choose what looks the best for me/suits my budget the best?
>>1950663get the cube, there is no reason to get 10 speed at that price level. 1x is cope for smoothbrains who think gimping their bike will somehow make it easier to own
>>1950663I also dig the Cube, more aesthetically pleasing geo, a bit lower front end for Fred needs. However Merida makes okay bikes as far as I know, never heard of superior and your budget comments make me lean away from the Cube. If you have interest in gravel maybe a little more upright isn’t such a bad thing and you could put that money towards a second pair of wheels and tires. Best way to approach one bike for paved and unpaved.
>>19506811x is completely understandable on a gravel bike IF you intend to take it on really heavy single track/mountainbike terrainMost people completely misunderstand gravelbikes, for gravel roads you literally just need a modern road bike with tread-ier tyres in the mid to low 30s width'Gravel bikes' exist for people who are riding that at bare minimum and then end up going off the beaten path or to where literal 90s MTBers were riding and at that point 1x becomes as reasonable on a dropbar bike as it is ubiquitous on MTBs
Is this a good deal?Used Merida Silex 300 for US$580Seems very cheap, and well well well within my budget, could actually just get this (they're like $2000 new here because fuck Australian pricing on imported products) and then buy a road bike as well so the 1x drivetrain won't be an issueBut are tektro mech disc brakes gunna make me kill myself, are they as bad as people say? I've only ever had rim or hydraulic disc
