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File: maxresdefault.jpg (83 KB, 1280x720)
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Isopropyl edition

Prev: >>1863940
>>
what *is* a bike, when you really get down to it
>>
a lot of people ask "what is a fixie" when they should really be asking "why is a fixie"
>>
>>1867741
there are two types of fixie riders: track bike cyclist and fixed gear gooks
>>
>>1867744
there are like over a dozen types of fixiefags
>>
>>1867746
and only one kind of tracchad
>flexes legs
>>
>>1867748
the ridiculous expensive indoor velodrome high preformance program 'could probably compete in multiple sports' tracchad bears little resemblance to the bumps between sections of not very banked concrete outdoor sports park weak poorfag druggo tracchad
>>
>>1867748
How long have you been riding track? How did you get into it? Is there much of a beginners scene outside of young kids who will one day be in the olympics?
>>
>>1867756
Get off that high horse and realize drugs and being poor are part of cycling's subculture that goes as far back as the early 1900s. Some of the hardcunts in the early days of The Tour would snort coke before the hardest climbs on fixed gear single speeds. Even Major Taylor, one of the earliest tracchads in cycling history, was doped. I'm not saying it's ok to be a druggo poorfag but tracchads are no different whether you dress them in rags or medals, as long as they can throw down the watts.
>>
>>1867759
Honestly, not long enough to flex about it however I have been riding since I was 4 and almost every day for the last 30 years. I got into it because at one point I became a fixiefag ripping the streets because I got bored of mountain biking until I found out there's a velodrome 20 miles north from me. There's a scene for all levels of the sport, look at the stats and realize a lot of the world record track holders are in their mid to late 20s and early to mid 30s. You don't have to start as a kid, it's never too late to start, in fact I'd argue you don't develop full power until after 25 with constant training.
>>
>>1867766
What sort of bike did you start with? I really like the idea of a velodrome and I too am a fixiefag
>>
>>1867761
It's not a value judgement at all and I far closer resemble the latter. I've even thought about moving to be near a nice outdoor velodrome so i can go at night and get stoned and ride around in circles. It has an ocean view and nice banking and an unlocked changing room with hot showers.

Just saying that it's not a monoculture.
>>
>>1867771
The fixed gear that I'm used to but dressed up differently to fit the regs, it's not much too, just no brakes, foot retention, and a helmet, and you're ready to ride on the velodrome. Most velodromes have rentals too, the barrier of entry is low compared to many other sports. The only problem is finding a velodrome near you, there's not many and they run limited schedules.
>>
>>1867772
Fair enough, I didn't mean to really call you out I suppose. A velodrome like that would be nice however, the one near me is a nice outdoor one but the view is only trees and the ride up there is a chore. At least it's close enough.
>>
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Is this cross threaded?
>>
>>1867783
Oof, that sure does look cross threaded.
>>
>>1867786
I had an accident with this bike, so I don't know if that pedal is a bit bent or if I've fucked it up.
>>
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>>1867783
If the threads are not completely fucked (but I'm doubting that since it's all the way in) back it out carefully, clean the threads, if you have the proper tap, chase the threads with the tap, then try again. If you can't get it to the pedal's torqued spec after trying that less invasive procedure, you will have to resort to using a thread insert or replacing the crank.
>>
>>1867788
In that case, it's possible only the pedal spindle got bent in the crash... unless you took the pedal off and fucked up reinstalling. Still, spindles are made of very hard steel, they shouldn't bend without anything else weaker around them breaking.
>>
>>1867792
isn't there a way the pedal would bent instead? considering it's aluminium, I'd think this could happen. I've removed the pedal, yes, but it went back in with 0 effort. I'll take it to the lbs tomorrow, I just wanted to be sure.
>>
>>1867794
Maybe, I can't tell from the picture but I'd think if it was the pedal bent and not the spindle then the gap would be between the pedal and spindle and not the spindle and crank. It's also weird it went in without effort being that off center, most of the time you can feel when a thread is being crossed
>>
>>1867795
sorry, it's late at night, I've messed the words around (ESL). I meant the crankarm was bent, not the pedal.
>>
>>1867796
Oh right, that does sound possible with enough force on the pedal pushing against the crank in the crash but if that's the case then, the crank arm needs to be replaced
>>
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>when pedaling, it sporadically gets stuck for like less than 1/4 of a second then makes clunk sound and vibration then pedal moves again
>it's been like that for a couple weeks
>yesterday, it started making weird grinding sound when the I'm not pedaling and the rear wheel is in free spin
>for half the turn it sounds normal then for the rest of the turn it makes grinding sound
>this is a cheapo freewheel not freehub+cassette

Is the hub fucked or the freewheel fucked? If it's latter, should I even bother trying to save it by replacing the bearings inside the freewheel itself? The sprocket teeths still have some life left, but they're far from brand new.
>>
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>>1867798
I'm really not sure. Here's a pic of the crank without it.
>>
>>1867805
Well, now that the pedal is off, does your threads look fucked? Crank arm looks fine but I won't be able to tell since it's a photo anyways.
>>
>>1867803
a freewheel costs like $15, you should absolutely not try to revive it. if it's your hub, then you need a special thin spanner and some grease and new bearings, also very cheap. but if the cones or bearing races are fucked, either you need new cones (they come with it when you buy a new axle for a freewheel hub, like $10.) or if it's the hub races, you need a new hub which basically means you need a new wheel, which is the priciest outcome. however, since you're running a wheel with a freewheel, it's not an expensive wheel. if you wanted to cheap out, a new wheel with a freewheel could be very affordable. or you could use it as an opportunity to upgrade to a better wheel with a freehub.
>>
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>>1867809
I had a spare crank arm (bought it for the chainring). This one fits right.
>>
How many companies still make carbon fiber rim brake road frames? I have a DA 9000 group that I want to migrate to a new frame. Looks like Time still makes a rim frame, any others I should look at?
>>
>>1867842
If you have time money get that but i would unironically consider some name-brand chinacarbon
>>
omg i never realized that shimano 105/ultegra/dura ace rim brakes have symmetric pivot locations more like a direct mount brake. seems like a superior design at least in terms of braking performance and OCD about the pads sitting at equal heights and staying consistent as the pads wear down. but maybe the asymmetry of for example campagnolo brakes is no big deal since they're a bit lighter and require less cleaning/maintenance
>>
>>1867842
Giant tcr if you want to spend 4 grand, winspace if you don't, emonda alr or caad 13 if you want to be sensible.
>>
>>1867773
>The only problem is finding a velodrome near you
Feel you, the nearest is 200km and you have to join a club to use it, no free hours.
I can just keep doing TT on a fixie, it's basically the same, right????
>>
Anyone here knowledgeable on DIY E-bikes? Are there any dangers with backdriving a hub motor? i.e. having the wheel with the motor moving while the controller is enabled and the battery is connected, but not powering the bike? I heard some people fried their controllers and/or batteries doing that for an extended period at high speed. For context, I plan on making a hybrid moped with a front hub motor and rear ICE. It will be able to run on both full electric and full ICE power (as well as a couple of other drive modes) so I have to be able to safely "disable" either of the two powertrains while the vehicle is moving. For the ICE that's as simple as a freewheeling mechanism but the electric motor is literally part of the wheel.
>>
>>1867871
Are you sure that's "backdriving"? Isn't your ICE spinning the wheel in the same direction as the electric motor's natural direction of turning?

Leaving the circuit closed while the electric motor is receiving external torque will definitely create current flow. It depends on whether your circuits attached to it are able to handle that voltage.
DC electronics generally HATE getting the opposite voltage, hence why backdriving is an issue.
But you can also get more voltage out than expected. Remember your motor is normally a load creating a voltage drop. If that motor is not acting as a load anymore, but a supply, then where is that voltage getting dissipated? The answer is hopefully into a component designed to safely dissipate it. After all, e-bikes need to be able to handle "going downhill" and the motor not needing to do work. But those circuits have their intended operating limits.
I'd be particularly concerned if your ICE has more wattage than the electric motor (you can convert horsepower to watts, just a unit change), in which case it can probably generate voltages out of spec for the electric motor (and remember, downhill adds even more external torque).

Note: not an e-bike enthusiast, just a general electronics hobbyist and motors aren't directly my area of interest so extra caveats
>>
Can I get a fair value estimate for this surly straggler? Original price was 1800€ (in 2021), seller wants 1500€ and will switch the seatpost and stem to the original parts.

Need a robust bike for commuting (50km/week) and some tours (200-300km per month)
>>
>>1867892
Yeah I wasn't sure if "backdriving" was the correct term but it would indeed be spinning in the intended direction. I know someone did a similar thing to what I'm planning (although he had a more rudimentary system, little more than an off-the-shelf hub motor E-bike conversion kit bolted to a moped) and his battery or controller (I forget which) had a meltdown once the battery ran out and stopped powering the motor.
>I'd be particularly concerned if your ICE has more wattage than the electric motor (you can convert horsepower to watts, just a unit change), in which case it can probably generate voltages out of spec for the electric motor (and remember, downhill adds even more external torque).
I'm designing it in such a way that both powertrains can on their own get the bike up to 30 mph, as that's the legal speed limit for mopeds in the Netherlands. No isue for the ICE of course as it was designed that way. I'm also limiting it in software to not exceed that speed, but it still needs to be able to reach it under all conditions.
>But you can also get more voltage out than expected. Remember your motor is normally a load creating a voltage drop.
If the electric motor can get the bike up to 30 mph, it shouldn't be able to generate a higher voltage than the batteries since even when running on the ICE it won't exceed that speed.
>>
>>1867922
>$1500 for a bike with BB7z and quick release
tell him that he should have sold it 2 years ago when coronatards were paying top dollar for any old POS

t. sold a gaspipe shitter for a small fortune when the getting was good
>>
>>1867931
Aight, thanks.
I just need a reliable, sturdy and relatively fast bike.. still open for other recs
>>
>>1867939
look at kona and jamis bikes, you can find very similar ones without the hipster markup
marin too
>>
What's a good alternative for Phil Wood Tenacious Oil?
>>
>>1867922
>Can I get a fair value estimate for this surly straggler? Original price was 1800€ (in 2021), seller wants 1500€ and will switch the seatpost and stem to the original parts.

1500€ is delusional unless it has literally been ridden less than 200km.
Btw 'switching the stem and bars back to the original parts' is just reducing the value because those thompson items are expensive. It's not good if you thought it was.

The rack is an expensive surly rack. They are like 150 new.

Imo the fair price is 1/2. 900 + 75. 975€. 500-800€ would be the bargain price. 350€
would be the steal price. 1200€ would be the steep somewhat reasonable if you really want it price. 1500€ is just bullshit. .
>>
>>1867982
singer sewing machine oil
>>
>>1867982
Olive Oil
>>
>>1868024
pls dont
>>
>>1867992
>>1867922

>The rack is an expensive surly rack. They are like 150 new.

I have one on my daily driver and it's awesome
>>
Henlo /bqg/.

I'm rebuilding a cheap Halfords city bike into a European style trekking bike - pic rel (background pic is my custom streetfighter road bike).

I've replaced the rear 7 speed freewheel for an M Part Freehub wheel, fitted 11-36 10s Shimano SLX, replaced the cup and cone bearing BB and steel square taper crankset with Shimano Deore XT T-8000 parts and it's turned into a 3x10 drivetrain.

The step-through frame is aluminium, but the fork is cro-mo, with a 1⅛ threaded steerer. I know the headset standard is EC34/30 and I've been thinking of replacing the fork altogether to turn it into a threadless design.

Only problem is that Ritchey cyclo-cross forks cost more than the bike originally did, road forks like the Brand-X one only accept 28c tyres (I have Schwable Marathon 35c ready to install) and I see no cause to use a suspension fork given the weight it adds.

This leaves me with expensive and impractical cyclo-cross forks and obscenely priced rigid MTB forks. Unless there's an alternative?

Or is replacing a 1⅛ threaded fork with a threadless one a useless endeavour?
>>
>>1868260
lmao
>>
>>1868260
dude just stop
Part of the charm of your retarded project is the frameset, the fork being stock. And I don't see any major practical reason to do it either.
>>
>>1868294
but he needs to slam the stem on that commuter bike
>>
>>1868260
aliexpress carbon fork
>>
>>1868260
Don't fucking do it.
1. Any other fork will look like cancer on that frame.
2. If the fork is 1 inch, the headset is also 1 inch. You'll have one hell of a time searching for a headset that will fit a wide fork steerer and narrow frame tube.
Also, there's nothing wrong with threaded headsets if they are pressed in fully, otherwise they'll get loose until they go all the way in.
The only real downside is that quill stem + threaded headset is somewhat heavier than a threadless system, which is irrelevant in your case, your frame is a boat anchor.
>>
>>1867854
I just googled it and there is a freakin velodrome like 20 minutes drive from my house. In fact there’s a bike path that goes straight there so it’s probably even less on a bike. I could ride my fixie down and remove the brakes and bars and swap them for drops in my backpack and get into her then put them back on for the ride home.
>>
>>1868372
your cranks need to be a certain length to prevent pedal strike. iunno which size, but odds are you don't already have it .
it's not just for your safety, it's so you don't gouge divots into the velodrome .
just build a dedicated track bike. or borrow one or something
>>
>>1868434
you're thinking bottom bracket height. track bikes have a higher bb height than road bikes.
>>
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>>1868294
Well, if I get extraordinarily bored of this bike in a year or two, it least it's going to be worth much more than completely stock.
>>1868295
I'm not looking for something that extreme, but a shorter stem/lower rise would be nice.
>>1868330
Are those safe? White label carbon Chineesium doesn't fill me with confidence. I can't seem to find many alloy options these days either.
>>1868367
>aesthetics
Yes... if I could get an original unthreaded fork, and run that threadless, I would.
>1 inch fork
Fork/steerer is 1-⅛ inch and the headtube is 34mm. This means that the current threaded headset can be replaced with a conventional threadless EC headset.
>boat anchor
The frame is ultimately alloy, not steel.
Replacing the cup & cone BB for Shimano BB-MT800, the 3 piece crankset for Hollowtech II and the rear solid axle freewheel for a QR freehub. Has reduced the weight by about 2-3kg.
With a new front wheel, replaced fork and threadless stem (and alloy handlebars instead of the current steel ones), an additional 2-3kg could be shaved off.

Altogether, these weight savings could turn what was originally a 16kg hybrid city bike, into a 10-12 kg trekking bike.
I know that weight savings that considerable are maybe seen as impossible, but if you're going from engineering standards of the 1890s to ones from the 2020s, surely that's going to give you benefits?
My road bike is 8-9kg, which a lot of people don't believe is possible, but with alloy wheels, alloy frame, rim brakes and a SRAM mechanical groupset, it's been doable. Freds can't believe it's not carbon!
>>
>>1868438
There isn't 2-3 kg in those parts, 1.5 kilo at most if you go for light tires, tubes, light stem, carbon fork, which nevertheless is still plenty. You really goofed on the wheels though, those are the most beneficial thing to upgrade.
The frame isn't light by alloy frame standards. It's also quite weak, so it doesn't make a great platform for upgrades.
Just go to a shop, ask them to knock out the top headset cup and measure the tube. If it fits - go ahead and order stuff.
I've upgraded many bikes and always came to the conclusion that the end result is worse and more expensive than a used bike of the same level.
It only makes sense in very particular cases, like odd frame sizes and run down expensive bikes. Or bikes that have sentimental value, but I found that once you upgrade a low end bike, you start to notice flaws of the frame, which were hidden behind the flaws of shit wheels and other components.
Also fuck Deore 3x10, M5120 2x10 is so much better
>>
>>1867922
>no tasteful gap in the headtube
who's buying this
>>
>>1867892
whoa fucking tesla over here
>>
>>1868447
>Wheels
So, the rear wheel *had* to be replaced to facilitate anything better than a 7 speed freewheel. That solid axle freewheel hub is heavy, from some Chinese facility... Ningbo Shunfeng Bicycle Co Ltd... and of course has imperfect threading that makes the freewheel look crossthreaded.
Carbon wheelsets for 135 OLD unfortunately do not have rim brake surfaces. Building a wheel out of a cheaper carbon road rim and 135mm Shimano freehub would be a very strange creation, and probably not worth it. A prebuilt alloy wheel for "touring" was most certainly an upgrade. Front wheel is left untouched for now.
>end result
I've looked through options for used bikes and so on and I've generally felt disappointed.
Some people want to sell you a Specialized gravel bike that they bought in 2020, rode 3 times and don't want anymore, but are looking about £1k for it... Or you're delving into awkward local bike shops that are trying to make you buy an overpriced white label MTB, but then insist that you buy a brand new Orbea or Cannondale gravel bike instead.
Ultimately, I just started looking at trekking bikes online and eventually found myself looking at Ortler and Gazelle bikes. Ortler was just too meh, but Gazelle had a 3x10 groupset bike with headtube suspension and hydraulic rim brakes.
I got fascinated by this, realised I already had the frame type, and looked up Shimano trekking groupsets, only to find Deore XT T8000.
I started from there, looked into various options and parked my idea, because I thought about just buying something like a Cube Nuroad FE or a Merlin Malt G2X. The former was pricey and the latter was out of stock.
So the idea of fixing up a newish hybrid frame for a fraction of the price became appealing.
>>
>>1868438
>project bike will be worth more

Not to anyone aside from you
>>
>>1868469
Then I guess I'll take off the drivetrain parts and use it for something else!
>>
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Does someone know what is wrong with this wheel? It causes a 10 mm radial difference on the tire's outermost diameter and you can feel it while riding
>>
>>1868499
remove valve nut
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>>1868500
Thanks, I had it loosened while inflating and that fixed it
>>
>>1868438
>Well, if I get extraordinarily bored of this bike in a year or two, it least it's going to be worth much more than completely stock.
LOL
>>
>>1868438
>>1868468
oh you're not doing it ironically...
anon you should have just gotten a beat up nicer rigid 90s mtb it would have been a lot fucking better for this

just the frameset would have been easy to buy for less than $50

jesus christ
>>
>>1868527
Why would I be doing it ironically?
At any rate, rigid MTB from that era never caught on here. What did catch on are full suspension MTB from the late 90s early 00s.
As I mentioned above, the second hand market is pretty abysmal here. You'll find flat pedal road bikes bought in 2020 that are barely used and cheap store brand bikes that have bottom of the barrel components that are heavy and technologically primitive.
Unfortunately, the bike riding population is pretty depressing here. Casual riders will buy top of the range Cube, Nukeproof or Trek DH or XC MTBs and then ride them at 10km/h on pedestrian paths.
Freds will obtain Bianchi, S-Works, Scott and Colnago carbon bikes.
Meanwhile, your average commuter will use Decathlon, Halfords and other store brand bikes, run them into the ground and then replace that.

I just wanted something closer to the trekking bikes you'll see everywhere in the Netherlands or Germany.
>>
>>1868533
>Why would I be doing it ironically?
well it is kinda funny
>>
>>1867922
850 Euro

these are the heaviest fucking bikes ever I swear to christ. the 61cm size was heavier than my MTB.
>>
>>1867939
Marin Lombard will be exactly what you need and costs what you are willing to spend for a inferior bike that is used.

Marin Lombard, Marin Gestalt and Marin Nicasio are all very similar bikes. You will also want to check out the 4 corners by Marin as that's the touring rig.
>>
>>1868533
>here
>>
>>1868548
I just really like working on bikes. I know I wouldn't be able to make a living out of it, so I guess doing up a bike for myself is something I'm perfectly ok with.
I don't really care if it's funny, I just want to make a fun bike and have fun in the process.
>>
>>1868565
It's that you chose an excessively shitty frame to put nice new parts on.
>>
>>1868565
>>1868566

That's what they're trying to tell you. You aren't making a fun bike for yourself. You are taking a perfectly useable 3x7 commuter bike with EZ fire shimano shifters and are wasting those parts and that back wheel.

If you want to do something crazy to this bike paint it with "Chalkboard Paint" which is available at the home store for $20 per 4oz. You can then put neon chalk in a bag or basket and it's an art bike.

(I've been trying to get someone to do a chalkboard bike since I found out chalkboard paint exists. That man needs to be you.)
>>
>>1868567
Why don't you do it yourself
>>
>>1868568
Im currently on an extended CL conversation trying to talk a boomer who knows what he has but doesn't sell any bikes into selling me his 63cm nishiki shitter with stem shifters for a reasonable price.

Im thinking $100-150 should it need no mechanical work?
>>
>>1868566
The frame doesn't perceivably flex. Its main flaw is its weight and maybe the V-brake design.
Why the OEM put a 1-⅛ inch threaded fork on a frame that could very easily accommodate a threadless fork, I will never understand...
>>1868567
I don't live in the city, so it's not really a commuter bike.
The BB creaked all the fucking time, the gearing was shit and the shifting was actually Shimano RevoShift, with 7 speed indexed for the RD and friction for the FD.

Painting the frame is interesting, but I don't think anything other than the downtube would be a useful surface.
Unfortunately, I don't think anyone would do anything other than draw cocks on the bike... kids tend to commute on BMX bikes... that's if they do commute in the first place and adults are carbrained fuckwits who would probably like to murder you for existing on the road.
>>
>>1868567
>that chalkboard paint faggot just won't let it go
>>
>>1868569
>nishiki shitter with stem shifters for a reasonable price.
>Im thinking $100-150 should it need no mechanical work?

It depends on a lot of things but i probably wouldn't want to pay more than $50 for a bike with stem shifters, if that, infact, probably less.

Especially if you're gonna strip it and repaint it, shouldn't you be looking for something with fucked paint that does need mechanical work? 'Need mechanical work' is a misnomer too. You can have a bike where the grease is totally gone/gummed up and the bearing surfaces are damaged and the derailers have a tonne of slop and the cables are all worn out and the tires are cracked and the brake hoods are dried out and the wheels are out of true but it rides and to a layman is in 'great condition'.
>>
the only 'good condition' that actually means anything is when someone has explicitely done all the work recently on a bike and put new consumables on it.
'Original condition' is something else. Usually warrants a full overhaul if it's a nice enough bike, it's just worth doing.
>>
No tractor thread
>>
>>1868574
eh it depends on the mechanicals like I said. I'm not really interested that much in that frame but options are limited in 61cm plus, especially in the old style ergonomics.
>>
>>1868435
so you can run the longest cranks you can get as long as the bb height is for track? that doesn't seem right
>>
>>1868586
yeah but still man just be patient, wait, bikes aren't worth more money in some meme size even if it's rare, they're worth less.
>>
>>1868434
I think mine are 165. Maybe I’ll go along and just ask the club.
>>
>>1868569
I say any bike you like is worth at least what a new Walmart shitter is selling for, and that's over $200 in the US currently
>>
what's an affordable or a DIY way to have a bicycle stand to clean the drivetrain?
i did not expected these to cost over 50€+ and i don't want to accidentally get some cheap brittle stuff
>>
>>1868601
Hang it. 2 ropes to either end of the top tube. Ratchet straps work quite well.
Tie a loop in the middle of each rope and have a hook on the end so you can easily connect them.
>>
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>>1868601
front wheel in sturdy stand and prop up bottom bracket shell on a little stool or something
>>
>>1868499
Bead of the tire or lip of the rim is defective and isn't holding the tire in place. Doesn't seem like it from the picture but check if the rim is bent
>>1868512
>>1868500
I refuse to believe that actually fixed anything but even if it did it's a bandaid.
>>1868601
Just put it upside down on the grass or somewhere else that won't scuff up your saddle and bars.
>>
>>1868608
>I refuse to believe that actually fixed anything but even if it did it's a bandaid.
it happens all the time dude. the thicker rubber around the valve doesn't allow the bead of the tire to get down into the hook of the rim. loosening the nut and pushing the valve in gets that rubber up inside the tire where it needs to be.
>>
>>1868608
Loooooooool Le wise old sage who puts his bike upside down and has never mounted a road tyre ahahahaha
>>
>>1868614
>Loooooooool Le wise old sage who puts his bike upside down
Unless you're taking the fork out there's almost never a reason not to. You can't raise it to eye level but chairs and kneeling are things.
>and has never mounted a road tyre ahahahaha
Probably hundreds, and never once have I had to do anything special to make sure the 15mm wide thick patch by the valve winds up inside the tire.
>>
>>1868596
>I say any bike you like is worth at least what a new Walmart shitter is selling for, and that's over $200 in the US currently

that's generally what I believe. I texted him he started at 160 USD. I don't know I'm not wowed with the bike for the project. I don't like the suicide shifters either. It doesn't particularly wow me and the guy has kept up the original paint...IDK I'm whelmed.

Ideally I'd do this project on something like a 90s cannondale aluminum mtb that has those fuckhuge tubes.
>>
>>1868610
fyi this literally happened to me last flat I changed and yes it was because I forgot to take off the nut.
>>
>>1868615
You don’t have to lie here. There is a place here for people who don’t fix their own flats. I see you.
>>
>>1868620
mald
>>
>>1868619
It’s one of the reasons why I never put those nuts on desu
>>
>>1867700
A vehicle with 2 wheels
>>
>>1868553
thanks, those bikes look really good.
I actually found a Marin Team Titanium frameset from ~1995 which I could possibly use (?)

Seller wants 450€ for the frame oder 1100€ for the full bike in pic related - is that reasonable?
>>
Why don't bikes use a belt instead of a chain
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>>1868632
you can't break a belt so it requires an elevated chainstay frame or some other meme to get through the rear triangle

they do exist though and the common thing i hear is how annoying and frustrating tensioning the chain is from people who only bought it because they don't like anything being annoying or frustrating.
>>
>>1868635
*tensioning the belt
>>
>>1868635
Why don't bikes use a drive shaft
>>
>>1868639
not uci approved.
>>
>>1868641
Why
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>>1868642
>thinks the uci needs a logical reason to ban things
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>>1868601
These go for around 15€. Sometimes on sale at Lidl or Aldi, probably even cheaper from ali
>>
I ordered the elops 500 single speed from decathlon as well as fixed cog and a locking ring. What's the name of the tool I'll need to put that cog on? Or can I without one. Or is there a possible make shift tool or more common tool that Inalready have that can be used?
>>
>>1868667
>cog
chainwhip. You could make a chainwhip out of an old chain. You can also use a rag and some sticks and your mind and levers but you do want to torque it pretty hard. You could also ride it tight.
>lockring
lockring wrench. It's like a hooked wrench that's the same for old bbs. You could use waterpump pliers for this if you have some that open wide enough and don't mind marring your lockring.
>>
>>1868670
You’ll never get a cog anywhere near as tight with a chain whip as you will by riding it. So if you tighten it with a chain whip, your lock ring will be loose as soon as you ride it.
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So this arm of my rear brake is stuck in the out position, if I pull it back it just springs right out again. I tried holding it in the right position and tightening everything I could tighten but nothing works. The other arm is fine and stays wherever I put it. At the moment, the back brakes are impossible to use because the right arm pulls everything to the right, so the left brake pad is always connecting. Is the problem actually in the left arm? Should the left arm also be springing out and they're supposed to be constantly pulling one another?
>>
Just changed some spokes on my new shitbike. Few questions and comments from a motochad to cyclecucks
>how important is that plastic thing behind the sprocket set? I forgot to put it back on and I'm thinking I'm just gonna leave it out
>how the fuck am I supposed to get the bow out of the wheel? I've improved it a fair bit tightening the new spokes but its still shit and makes the rear brake rub. Never had any problems doing dirtbike wheels
>your wheel bearing design is fucking retarded. Why not just use proper bearings like on a motorbike Axel?
>why do I need a fuckin inside out socket to get the sprocket set off? again shit design
>>
>>1868671
So what would you tighten it with?
>>
>>1868674
>Should the left arm also be springing out
yes
>>
>>1868671
True. I'm not a fixiefag and I didn't think it through.
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>>1868676
I would tighten it by riding it, same as the guy would but without the extraneous step of tightening it with a chainwhip
>>
>>1868675
If you’ve never heard of an external spline before seeing one on a bicycle, maybe it’s best you don’t comment on what is and isn’t good mechanical design kek. You need to true the wheel my friend. It’s very far beyond you. Take it to a bike shop.
>>
>>1868674
You're missing a wire m8

>>1868675
>>how important is that plastic thing behind the sprocket set? I forgot to put it back on and I'm thinking I'm just gonna leave it out
Safety thing to keep the chain from destroying your wheel if it falls off the gears. Not needed if you're 100% sure you're derailleur is perfectly set up, but sounds like you should keep it on.

>>how the fuck am I supposed to get the bow out of the wheel? I've improved it a fair bit tightening the new spokes but its still shit and makes the rear brake rub. Never had any problems doing dirtbike wheels
Don't just tighten everything or you'll ruin the wheel. Too much or uneven spoke tension will ruin the rim, either slowly or quickly. Find videos on wheel truing.

>>your wheel bearing design is fucking retarded. Why not just use proper bearings like on a motorbike Axel?
Wheels that cost more than five bucks use cartridge bearings.

>>why do I need a fuckin inside out socket to get the sprocket set off? again shit design
Better than the design it replaced
>>
>>1868675
>how important is that plastic thing behind the sprocket set? I forgot to put it back on and I'm thinking I'm just gonna leave it out
forget about it
>how the fuck am I supposed to get the bow out of the wheel? I've improved it a fair bit tightening the new spokes but its still shit and makes the rear brake rub. Never had any problems doing dirtbike wheels
Are you doing anything special? Here is a general guide https://youtu.be/MFOng1UXn-g
>your wheel bearing design is fucking retarded.
related to how much money you spent on the wheel
>why do I need a fuckin inside out socket to get the sprocket set off?
selling tools is profitable, additionally bicycle parts do have a giant markup for no reason in comparison to general automobile parts
>>
>>1868680
Fuck you if I can do a motorbike I can do your fag machines.
>>1868681
Thx
>>1868682
Thx friendo
>>
>>1868675
kys faggot
>>
How do I calculate speed from gear ratio and rpm? I can't into math
>>
>>1868631
Never buy old shit with shit ancient standards.
Total waste of money garage queen.
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>>1868709
Rpm of crank X ratio X Wheel circumference in metres =metres/min
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>>1868714
Am I doing something wrong? My biggest gear gives me a top speed of 11km/h at 60rpm
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>>1868720
no that guy but I think you have put the diameter and not the circumference
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>>1868723
thats even slower
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>>1868724
in case you are not trolling, here's the solution

it gives you about 34.5 km/h which should be right
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>>1868724
here's the solution with units
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>>1868709
https://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence
>>
Thanks, I confused diameter and circumference
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>>1868631
no that is incredibly overpriced. For that money you can buy a brand new Lombard. Thats just some retard boomer who bought a titanium bike 25 years ago and wants to see something back.
>>
>>1868631
the world has changed in 27 years. don't pay a thousand euros for a buzzword like titanium
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>>1868631
Don't listen to the consoomertards, if that frame is without cracks then it's a bargain buy for 450 euro's, you could easily flip it for 600.

but fuck that, what a lovely platform upon which to build up any kind of bike. Again, do not listen to retarded consoomers who think something has to be new to be good, there's a reason why 90s mtb bikes and parts are highly sought after and you can browse threads on here to find out more. My advice, buy the frame then look for a donor bike, some over spec'd retail number from the early - mid 90s, look for Shimano DX or XT groupset in low mileage condition and just transfer all the bits across. to narrow the search make a not of seat tube diameter and cable routing (top pull/bottom pull) for the FD and headset sizing.

Earlier this year I nabbed a near mint Al Carter with full DX for £120, Al Carter is a second rate catalogue brand that was notoriously over specd. Seen full DX groups going for three time that.
>>
>>1868694
big tuff cbr250
>>
>>1868618
well, if you don't like it you should go less than the walmart price, and his offer of $160 is under, but sure, haggle away. but it sounds like you don't *really* want this bike anyway. just hold out for that Cannondale or similar.
>>
>>1868694
You clearly can’t though? Are you starting to realise that you’ve fucked up all your dirt bike wheels and the hub-based brake systems have meant that you can’t notice, or is that a revelation for next time? Incompetent wanker
>>
>>1868682
>additionally bicycle parts do have a giant markup for no reason in comparison to general automobile parts
in what way? a lot of auto parts costs hundreds or thousands. you could argue price per kg but lighter is better and the pricier parts are generally forged/CNC aluminium/titanium and carbon fiber parts that are suitable for racing or chains with fancy strengthening and anti rust treatments, not just plain steel or cast aluminium
>>
>>1868750
Well it would be a major step up from your bike.
>>1868752
I can tho. Tightening a spoken isn't a very complicated job I'm pretty sure the previous owner has just fucked it too hard which I guess would explain the 3 broken spokes in one area. If your motorcycle wheel had a bow in it you'd feel it straight away but continue to seethe
>>
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the ferrule attached to the shift cable is slipping in my in line barrel adjuster. I cant adjust the tension because it just slips as I turn it. what do? im thinking put a drop of glue on the ferrule before sticking it in. trying to avoid taking the shift cable apart
>>
>>1868788
Yeah glue could work, you're ruining the barrel adjuster though.
You could try jamming shims in to wedge it in there. Just tiny strips out of a beer can.

I would be trying to delete the inline barrel adjuster. Fuck those things. Whether that means getting clamp on stops or changing your shifter or derailer to one that has one.
>>
>>1868796
yeah was hoping to preserve the barrel adjuster. will try beer can shims, thanks.
>>
reminder to lycra warriors if you have an accident and your bike doesn't have legal lights and reflectors, you'll be the one paying for any damage whether its an accident with a car or another bike.
>>
>>1868813
most places don't require lights and reflectors unless it's dark and a nice road bike or fixie is maneuverable with good traction etc so that you can avoid accidents even when riding pretty aggressively
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>>1868813
Wasn't wearing lycra but i got a good insurance payout on my road bike when a cunt pulled infront of me and hit me coming out of a carpark at night.

I had lights but no reflectors, which are 'required' in NZ by law.
I don't think anyone actually gives a shit about that, atleast not here.
>>
>>1868756
>a sram red cassette is worth $400 because it's made from the *good* steel and not the shit they make garden tools and dumpsters out of
no

A car part has to be made much better than a bike part because the loads and speeds are incredibly higher and if it fails the manufacturer has to waste billions and ruin their brand reputation on a recall. Meanwhile bike cucks will just suck it up and buy another one (with a 10% crash replacement discount :^) ) and convince themselves it's their fault because they overtorqued a bolt by 2nm or used the wrong brand of sealant or something.
>>
>>1868819
sour grapes
>>
>>1868821
You're completely delusional If you don't think that that anything bike related comes with massive mark-up. In my local bike shop yesterday brb $15 for some chain lube because it was """specially formulated """ for bike chains
>>
>>1868819
https://www.qa1.net/automotive/driveshafts
>carbon fiber driveshaft
>designed to transmit the full power of a 1,500hp (=1,125,000 watts) race car engine to the wheels
>Price: about $1,500

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road-bikes/madone/madone-slr/madone-slr-frameset-gen-6/p/33044/
>carbon fiber bicycle frame
>capable of surviving a 250 pound guy sitting on it while rolling over some minor road bumps at 20-30 mph while not actually transmitting any power to anything
>Price: $4,500
>>
>>1868813
most cycling specific gear has a reflective strip somewhere, this is enough to comply with the law
as for lights, at least where I live they're only mandatory during night time.
thanks for worry tho!
>>
>>1868826
that's the equivalent of $15+ engine oil in a gas station convenience store
a sram red cassette is a top of the line component that the average person doesn't need, it's just a luxury if you can afford it like a hypercar, you can't even buy most of the latest formula 1 stuff, or it would cost like tens of thousands for some minor component
>>
>>1868788
Like the ferrule on the cable or the adjuster itself? The cable isn't supposed to twist when you turn the adjuster, the adjuster itself is threaded internally and gets longer or shorter when you twist it. How the ferrule is seated isn't important. If it's not adjusting anything when you turn it the threads could be broken internally or maybe you just adjusted it so much it unscrewed all the way and the two halves aren't attached anymore. If it's that then the cable's too slack for the adjuster to fix and you'll have to detach the cable and reattach it with more tension. Don't forget to put the adjuster back together before you reattach it.
>>
>>1868838
With the same rider position and wheels a $15k bike is like 2% faster than a $2k bike, while a 'hypercar' is dramatically faster than a Mustang.

F1 comparisons are meaningless because there's no cycling equivalent. Bike racing is basically what stock car racing was back when they actually used "stock" cars.
>>
>>1868835
>this is enough to comply with the law
Not where I live. Reflectors need to have an approved type rating to count as fulfilling the requirements of the law.
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>>1868844
this kind of autism is only real in real autistic countries like germany
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>>1868845
lol here in the USA our social aid organizations just fit em out with a 90s mtb (extra hobo points for girls bikes and mixte frames) and they become this kind of urban warrior who roams the streets with chisled calves pedaling from underpass to underpass riding in the road, on the sidewalk, on the shoulder yet not dying like some sort of modern day Mad Max.

I think if you're homeless you should just be issued a 90s MTB it makes the city look much more punk rock.
>>
>>1868833
you are comparing one component made to move the car vs the entire bike.

A better comparison would be to compare the price of a Carbon Fiber driveshaft ($2000, IDK where you got the $1500 from) to the price of a Trek Madone frameset which is $2400.

So for these being completely different things made out of a similar amount of material and having similar levels of tooling needed along with raw materials they are shockingly similar in price.

Congrats, you owned yourself.
>>
>>1868813
that's not true in car crashes and it certainly isn't true in bike crashes.

Failure to comply with safety code by the victim is not a defense of the defendant but merely a piece of evidence they can put forward to mitigate their punishment.

It can be used in civil trials to cut the award a bit but it is not a complete bar to any tort recovery in any of the 50 US states.
I don't know why you would say anything like this aside from trying to get shut ins to not leave the house. Becuase FYI all the lycra freds like myself who have professional jobs have all the lights and reflectors and Garmin Varias and all that shit.

It's the autistic shut ins that we're trying to convice to spend $500 and buy themselves a lifeline that you are hurting.
>>
>>1868860
>all the lycra freds like myself who have professional jobs have all the lights and reflectors
a real fred would be hostile towards any form of on bike reflector as it's not pro and it robs his watts.
>>
>>1868863
I think you're just making this up as you go along. At my 8am coffeeshop ride with the rest of the guys who are 15 years older than me and on bikes 5x more expensive (10k vs my 2k) they not only have lights and reflectors and blinkers but REAR FUCKING RADAR.
>>
Are sub-10 speed SRAM chains bad compared to KMC and Shimano?
>>
>>1868843
it's more than 2% and it's better in every way, the handling and feel etc, just that the pure speed is limited since it's human powered

the top pro cyclists get paid millions, almost as much as F1 drivers. there were only 20 rim brake dogma F frames delivered to the US because they had no real interest in commercializing them, they were just meant for the pros. there's also the olympics where some of the teams only do the bare minimum to meet the rules for commercially available equipment.
>>
a hypercar is hardly faster than a mustang in normal use on a public road anyway, like driving a lifted truck it's just an ego thing for most people, you could hate on people for collecting my little pony dolls but what's the point, if people want to ride a nice bike then so be it, and the top of the line bikes are developed for racing performance, it's just coincidental that they're road legal and that people are willing to pay $10k+ to own one
>>
>>1868869
no, i think they're quite good. They have a kmc-esque quicklink too which is nice.

Sram cassettes are also quite good.
>>
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>>1868859
>thinks a trek madone frameset costs $2400
>thinks a trek madone full bike costs $4500
You can barely get an aluminum trek for $2400 (and that's without the upcoming electric-only price hike)
>>
Give it to me straight, boys
Wet-ready or dry-only?
>>
>>1868870
>it's more than 2% and it's better in every way
Wrong. Frame aero is a minimal factor in speed, handling is down to tires and geometry, and frame material makes zero difference in ride quality.
>>1868871
>a hypercar is hardly faster than a mustang in normal use on a public road anyway
And a madone is hardly faster than a walmart cruiser in normal use on a bike path with a 15mph speed limit
>>
>>1868838
OK but millions go into f1 r&d while your cassette is mass produced shit
>>
>>1868883
>>1868886
cope
>>
>>1868890
consoom
>>
>>1868869
I use them all the time, ahead of the two brands you listed & other Jap brands.
I wish SRAM hadn't stopped making their higher spec/finish chains (PC-991, etc), but stuff like PC-971 is still quite a good deal, for the mix of how long they last, how well they perform, resist rust, etc.
>>
>>1868883
>frame material makes zero difference in ride quality.
has never ridden a bamboo bike
>>
>>1868869
t. australian chain autist shimano 8/9 speed and KMC chains are the worst chains on the planet. SRAM will have two or three different options, get the one with the highest part number that costs like two bucks more, it'll have treated bits to last longer.

https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/chainlongevitypg1.pdf
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/chainlongevitypg2.pdf
>>
>>1868897
>needs hollow pin chains for his 25 pound sora bike
>>
>>1868882
that shit is gonna clog with mud in no time
>>
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Should I add cooling fins to my hubs to prevent grease from cooking off?
>>
>>1868949
are you a fast boi?
>>
How much would it cost to get a bike painted in the UK?

Cinelli bikes comes in such DUMB colours.
>>
>>1868927
But this is a ranking of 11/12 speed chains with only two 8/9 speed chains thrown in as points of reference? I don't think I can use an 11 speed chain on my 3x8 hybrid beater.
>>
>>1868960
this would be the easiest, close to factory quality finish
>Its impossible to give a ranging price list as paint schemes vary, but for an idea carbon road frame and fork prices start at £950, hardtail mountain bikes from £ 800 and full suss £975. This includes most metalic, pearlescent and solid colours in a gloss finish.
https://fatcreations.com/

an anon has said he had a frame powder coated (but that's for steel frames) and then convinced an auto paint shop to put leftover clear coat on after they did a car for a small fee

a proper DIY job would cost at least a couple hundred in supplies and you should wear a proper mask and have ventilation if you're going to use 2K clear coat
>>
>>1868960
buying a new bike to repaint it is totally retarded
>>
>>1868978
No reason an 8 speed chain should last a third as long as an 11 speed chain. The opposite if anything.
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>>1869033
>The opposite if anything.
why?
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>>1869038
everything's narrower and thinner
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>>1869038
high end singlespeed chains lasts the longest
pic related is a customer review on rosebikes of the narrow kmc e1 ept, officially rated to 3500+ km on a mid motor e-bike, the wide e101 ept is rated to 10000+ km
i haven't looked into how zero friction has done the tests, like if they take the chain angle in different gears into account or if they're entry level 8/9 speed chains. kmc x8 has been said to last very long for touring with hub gear bikes.
>>
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>buy new fancy wheels 2 years ago
>loud freehub which I hate and lately a slight sandy noise in the freehub that one bike shop said was nothing to worry about and another bike shop said they couldn't hear at all but which has been pissing me off
>shop that wasn't trying to gaslight me tried to charge me $35 for a hub overhaul to fix it
>research online how to fix myself
>literally just pull off the freehub with the cassette still attached, wipe all the gunk out, put on a bit of new grease and reassemble
>sandy noise is now gone and freehub is now even quieter than my other bike which itself is pretty quiet
>total job time about 10 minutes
WHY DIDN'T YOU FUCKS TELL ME IT WAS THIS EASY I'VE BEEN SUFFERING FOR TWO YEARS
>>
>>1869059
>tfw overhauling hub and LBS made me pay $20 for 18 ball bearings
>I paid because I wanted to resume riding as soon as possible
>>
Does anyone have a cup holder on their bike? I want to be able to buy a smoothie to enjoy on my ride to work but idk if the shitty $10 ones on ebay will be good. Pls recommend
>>
>>1869073
Seems like an ok thing to cheap out on, not much that can go wrong as long as you don't buy the ultra-chinkshit. I'd buy from amazog instead so you can read the reviews to check that it's at least functional.
>>
>>1869078
Yeah sorry I'm more asking for advice on designs
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>>1869073
I think that one would work best the plastic ones that wont grip the cup probably rattle.
>>
>>1868949
uh, standard grease is meant to withstand the revolutions of motorized machinery like over 3000rpms sustained and much higher for short bursts so your joke is pretty lame
>>
>>1869084
Problem is its $40
>>
>>1869086
this one is /fa/ with the drawback being that it only holds tapered cups (beer cans and coke cans will fall through).

Bell also makes one in this similar design.
AMAZON SEARCH
Bike Handlebar Cup Holder Aluminum Alloy Bicycle Water Bottle Holder Tea Coffee Cup Mount Clamp Cycling Accessory
>>
>>1869059
Full LBS service price list (excl parts)

Shit you shouldn't be allowed to own a bike if you can't do - $15
Shit any retard can do after watching a youtube video and buying a couple tools - $40
Actually hard shit - $100
>>
>>1869073
Unless you have the smoothie in a sealed container it's going to go everywhere the first time you hit a bump unless you have front shocks.
>>
>>1869123
have you ever been to a smoothie king or you not like fat black mommas
>>
>>1869123
I'm a good rider though and I have front suspension. Shouldn't be an issue
>>
>>1868981
Holy shit, that's extortionate. Maybe I won't then.

I just want to cover the nasty Yellow on the back.
>>
>>1868996
Well there aren't many options with single speed, and Cinelli is fucking good.
>>
>>1869073
Why can you just wait a bit to sit down? Why do some people just have to be sipping something constantly while in a journey. You people get on my nerves.

I hope you spill it all over your Clothes.
>>
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>>1869073
you want a stem bag

>>1869192
look at this ultrafaggot esl getting mad about drinks lmao
>>
>>1869189
you just don't understand italian aesthetics. They're supposed to be garish and ugly and also beautiful. It's your job to make the bike beautiful to justify the ugly. It's wabi sabi.
>>
>>1869189
I think it's gorgeous, anon
maybe cover the seatstays in retroreflective tape?
>>
>>1869200
Hmm I know you're taking the piss a bit but that's surprisingly profound. Should I just ride it with the loud accents (this is actually the most subtle by their standards)? It's a Beast of a Bike.
>>
>>1868927
Used to think it was normal (given my riding patterns) to replace a chain 3 or 4 times a year, until the store was out the usual Shimano 8-speeds and handed me an SRAM.
I keep checking that tenacious bastard every month thinking "surely it's done now" and keep being surprised every time. I might actually have to clean it one more time and put the winter lube on, rather than replace it.
>>
>>1869200
Maybe it'll grow on me if that's how you guys see it.

Ive never seen anything taped up long term that looks good though.
>>
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What's the prevailing opinion on mixing brake standards?
Say you have a frame with V Brake mounts, but then you get a fork with disk brake mounts?
I've seen some bikes with this configuration, but nothing OEM.
>>
>>1869221
disc fork on a canti/v-brake frame is very common. nothing wrong with it really.
>>
>>1869189
i agree that that the yellow is a bit much. you could try putting black vinyl wrap over just the most bulging parts of the seatstays and chainstays to tone it out so that it's more balanced against the yellow on the fork. vinyl wrap doesn't cost much and doesn't mess with the paint but it's tricky and time consuming to get it right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n272u6639wg
>>
>>1869295
This could be an option.
>>
>>1869189
I could live with the yellow, it's the font on the text that pisses me off the most. Plus that dumb "C".
>>
>>1869205
I'm not joking dude. Take the iconic Colnago Master for example. A Colnago was given to the pope. These bikes are hideous in the extreme. Adorned with beautiful campagnolo, they pull off the look.

Modern Cinelli is a little different because their styling moved downmarket in the fixie-era and they are not mega fancy like they once where (old cinellis are grail bikes). The paint on them is flat which is a shame. It is still much the same though.
That cinelli will look very good with a very aesthetic build, and hideous with an ordinary one. It basically means having an expensive deep section wheelset with silver hubs/spokes and expensive tires.

>>1869338
>not liking the cinelli logo
stugotz
>>
>>1869189
You should be able to find a place that would strip, prep and powdercoat it for less than 200. Prices vary wildly though, and you want to get somewhere used to doing bikes that will mask the threads well. So it pays to call around a lot and maybe try ask other cyclists/bike shops in your area.

Plus you're devaluing the bike. It's worth speccing it up and riding it first to make sure it fits you well and you like it. Repainting only makes sense if you really do like it and want to keep it for a long time. Also, it only makes sense if you want to paint it a bright color and do something bold with the graphics, like, pink, or purple, custom decals, etc. If you just want flat black or whatever you're ruining the frame.
>>
My front derailleur skips the middle ring only when downshifting. It moves but the chain does not. Then once you downshift again to the smallest ring it jumps to that ring. I've adjusted everything I can think of. I'm gonna take it to a shop to get them to look at it eventually but it's a bit of a drive and it'll be tough to get there before they close.
>>
>>1869369
alternately you could just buy a cheap friction shifter for it, like, any thumby, or a stem shifter, or a downtube shifter.

you can get a new chink one for peanuts and the right kinda lbs would have old plasticy ones that work perfectly fine in a parts bin for very cheap or free or nice deore/xt ones for maybe not that much. The front ones get orphaned too from 1x setups.
>>
>>1869369
because it's really no guarantee the lbs will even satisfactorily setup your shifting.
indexed front shifting is inherently fucky. I feel like I can set it up reasonably well and I don't hate it, but people who run into problems with it shouldn't rail too hard against it when it's so simple to substitute a bombproof idiotproof superior system in there.
>>
>>1869221
My old man has a CCM with disc brake fork and v brakes on the rear.

It's a Dept store bike so it's kinda heavy for what it is but it's been working well for him for about a decade. I've seen a few other models built like it. Plenty of folks don't like that one thing but they work just fine.

Old (80s) MTB frames sometimes had cantilever brakes on the fork and a bmx style u brake under the chainstays. So it's not *that* uncommon.
>>
What would be the best way to put pads for carbon wheels on a Shimano R451 Front Road Caliper? I have swissstop black prince carbon pads, but idk which shoes to get.
>>
>>1869392
the difference between holders is some have toe adjustment which is sometimes useful but technically should be unnecessary on modern caliper brakes and some extremely cheap ones have chinesium screws that strip out when you look at them, other than that it's aesthetics and price.
>>
>>1869369
Is your cage bent? Is it lined up with the chainrings? Is it too high?
>>
>>1869379
It's only fucky if you have shit parts and/or a triple.
>>
What tool exactly do I need to change an SM-RT10S rotor?
My disk brakes are BR-R7070. My old pads are K02S Resin, but from what I can tell they don't make them anymore. From my research K-05S-RX should work fine, but can anyone confirm?
>>
>>1869415
false
>>
>>1869369
Left ez fire is set to 2x not 3x. The nonshift is it trimming
>>
>>1869340
This makes sense now, it's character. I'm definitely going to get one. How would expensive Tires help though? I don't think they'd even be noticed.
>>
>cycling-related media doing layoffs
>a whole bunch of people fired at CyclingTips and VeloNews
>layoffs due to bicycling manufacturer ad spending falling off the cliff as demand cools

Are bike prices going to go down next year, or will they proactively shut down production lines to artificially maintain scarcity?
>>
>>1869508
Guess
>>
>>1869492
i notice
>>
>>1869448
Anyone?
>>
>>1869508
Prices never go down, but they might introduce a new "even-worse-than-Tourney" groupset and sell bikes with it for what Tourney bikes used to cost.
>>
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>>1869059
>loving new quiet freehub
>read shit online
>"NOOOOO YOU CAN'T JUST USE REGULAR GREASE IN A FREEHUB YOU'LL LITERALLY DIE YOU HAVE TO USE <special fancy bike freehub oil that costs $20/bottle> OR AT LEAST WET CHAIN LUBE"
>take it apart again and clean out all the grease and put on chain lube instead
>sandy noise still gone but it's loud again
>(just saying, what I cleaned out of there originally kinda seemed like grease)
fucking grease autists
>>
>>1869448
>>1869608
>disktranny problems

>can anyone confirm?
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/shimano105-r7000/BR-R7070-R.html
>Pad_Standard 1 K05S-RX Resin (w/o fin)
Will work.

>What tool exactly do I need to change an SM-RT10S rotor?
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/altus-m2000/SM-RT10.html
Looks like two options, either a freehub lockring tool like park tool FR-5.2, which would also be useful to take off your cassette (you'd need a chainwhip and wrench too), or a bottom bracket tool like park tool BBT-9, which would also be useful to work on a threaded bottom bracket and 105 crankset.
>>
>>1869608
>>1869658
>(you'd need a chainwhip and wrench too)
...for the cassette thing, not the rotor thing
>>
...actually you do need the wrench still.
>>
>>1869492
Tires are the first valuable thing noticed on a bike, I use it as a mark of judgement all the time and it’s very accurate
>>
My st-r7000-l died. Unable to shift up to the large chainring, it simply skips. Loud metal-on-metal skipping CLANG. When I disconnect the cable it works as usual, but any kind of load and it skips.
Any help, except for replacing the internal mechanism?
>>
>>1869672
Cable not frayed inside the shifter?
>>
>>1869661
I haven't gone down the Tire Rabbit Hole yet, I didn't even know these was one.

I use Gatorskins and I assume they're decent. Unless you purposely look at them closely you wouldn't notice that they aren't the cheapest Tires.
>>
>>1869660
Why? I tightened the freewheel with my hands and it's fine.
>>
>>1869672
>My st-r7000-l died.
Many such cases, that model's defective. First check the cable and maybe blast the insides with WD40 if you think it might be gunked up to see if that helps (unscrew the plastic cover underneath the lever body to get more access). Warranty is 2 years so get a new one for free if you can, when mine died they replaced both shifters with ultegra.

Otherwise if you don't want to buy a direct replacement you could look for last gen 105 5800 from ebay or some offbrand or chink stuff like microshit or sensah. SRAM Rival is compatible too but not any cheaper.

>replacing the internal mechanism
Not sold separately lol.
>>
>>1869678
If you can undo a cassette or rotor lockring with just the lockring tool and no wrench it was on WAY too fucking loose.
>>
>>1869677
Gatorskins are good for what they are, but they're the "The only thing I care about is never ever getting a flat" tire. Grand Prix 5000 is the gottagofast tire, Ultra Sport III is the gottagofast-on-a-budget tire, and Grand Prix 4 Seasons is the gottagofast-but-with-slightly-more-flat-protection tire.
>>
>>1869689
Really? I had no idea. Tell me more.Does a tire make that much difference to speed? I only got Gator skins because they seemed well made and I like good shit. Are they that much heavier?
>>
>>1869676
no
>>1869686
Yeah I took it off, cleaned the inside. The mechanism itself seemed kinda wobbly, so I tightened the screw seen here at 4:32 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Z6Cfc3kTHE
Looks like the load bearing small metal tabs are worn out. I'm unable to disassemble it completely, because I lack proper tools.
Fuck, I guess I really have to buy another one. And I've got a 1x drivetrain for now
>>
>>1869690
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/continental-grand-prix-5000-2018
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/continental-gatorskin-2015

Switching to grand prix 5000 would save about 20 watts at 18mph t. science, which roughly means it'd be 10% or so less effort to maintain that speed (add latex tubes for a couple more percent if you don't mind pumping them up every day). Weight difference is less than I thought, only a couple ounces over two tires. Also better grip and a little more comfortable because of higher TPI.

For this you sacrifice a huge amount of flat protection, and running over any random pebble has a non-trivial chance of putting a nice cut in your sidewall.
>>
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Can anyone ID this Nishiki frame?
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>>1869699
Tpi?

Holy shit, who has the will to pump their tires every day. That's one upgrade I can rule out straight away.

Possibly getting a flat on a journey is a worrying thought though, I'll have to think for a while and weigh it up. I better bloody feel the quickness difference at that cost.

Which colour tape should I use? The Nude colour looks really nice, but I'm thinking it might clash with the yellow.
>>
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can you?
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>>1869699
Ah tire pressure you must mean. So I'm going to pump them to a higher PSI? But wouldn't that make it less comfortable? Obviously definitely faster.
>>
>>1869719
>>1869724
TPI stands for threads per inch. Tyres carcass are made out of rubber coated thread weave. Conventional wisdom has it that higher thread count gives a more supple, and therefore comfier, tyre.

Although I have also been told by customer support of a tyre manufacturer that higher thread count also makes a tyre less durable because there's less rubber binding the threads together.
>>
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I have a cheap road bike (fyxation pixel), I bent the left pedal and the crank arm thread because it wasn't fully threaded in (shame on me for not checking it). Anyway I replaced the left crank arm with another one, and replaced the pedals and it was fine for another 1.5 months but it just failed again.

This time it's the part of the arm that threads onto the spindle. The right arm / pedal is fine, it's just the left that fucks up. Is this just an inherent problem with square taper cranksets? Should I upgrade to a fancy bike finally because I'm riding this one too hard?
>>
>>1869706
Put it back in the dumpster where you found it.
>>
>>1869817
It's not an inherent problem, but it is a common failure due to poor installation and lack of widely understood conventional wisdom about the system (even bike mechanics will give you different and confusing answers about this subject).

Your pic isn't of a square taper crankset, it's a cottered crank. And square taper cranks don't 'thread' onto the spindle, they have a tapered press-fit.

I suggest you simply buy another left arm and install it correctly. If you want advice about what 'correctly' means i'm happy to give it. If you install it correctly, it won't fail.
Actually all bottom bracket standards are prone to generate some bullshit. It's just a frustrating area. Square taper isn't uniquely frustrating.
>>
>>1869817
When you put the new one on did you do the bolt up really fucking tight like it should be?

>Is this just an inherent problem with square taper cranksets?
Square taper has many inherent problems.

>Should I upgrade to a fancy bike finally because I'm riding this one too hard?
Yes, but not for that reason.
>>
>>1869828
What does "install correctly" mean. It was fully threaded onto the arm, the pedal was fully screwed in.
>>
>>1869706
>nutted wheels
>stamped steel dropouts w claw derailer hanger

it's a gaspipe shitter. I would not bother rehabilitating a bike that shit in that poor condition because the cost of the consumables is not worth it.

I would pick it clean for parts and then junk the frame. Scrap metal dealer pays like 20c/kg for steel, and more for alloy. If you have the space and a car, start metal piles. If not then just cycle there with it on your back so it's recycled properly. It is possibly worth keeping the fork as a crash replacement. Someone could find it useful. Junk the wheels if they are in bad condition (cut the spokes, recycle the rims as alloy).
>>
>>1869829
I made it super fucking tight. I didn't have a torque wrench then but I do now. This is my around town bike / I don't care if it gets stolen bike. I got this arm to replace the old one last time: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Left-Arm-Silver/dp/B000AO9OKS Both times the failure happened while I was standing to pedal cuz no gears + hills. The right arm is always fine which makes me think it's an installation issue like >>1869828 said

I'm going to get another bike soon but still trying to decide what type I want. This was the initial bike to see if I even enjoyed cycling as a hobby and I do.
>>
>>1869832
Even 'fancy' bikes sometimes still come with square taper cranksets at the entry level, so look out for that.
>>
>>1869690
>Does a tire make that much difference to speed?
Tires are the most important part of any vehicle but especially so for bikes. Movement first happens at the tire but so does braking and turning. Your bike's maximum performance is limited by its tires. It should be the first upgrade to seek if you're still on factory or cheapshit plastic like tires but tires are a technology of compromise where you need to find a balance between speed, traction, and durability, increasing one area of the three is usually done at the cost of the other two. Want a high speed, high grip tire? Then it's probably thin as a condom that punctures easily. Want durability and traction? Then it'll probably be a slow rolling heavy tire. Gatorskins are durability and speed at the cost of traction. The difficult part is finding the balance required for your environment's conditions. That's just surface level talk too, there's TPI, PSI, compound, weight, design, volume, size, etc that all factors into the performance of a tire. Tires are the biggest upgrade you can make on your bike, don't just settle for memeskins.
>>
>>1869832
>The right arm is always fine which makes me think it's an installation issue like >>1869828 (You) said

>Loss of crank bolt preload is greater on left than right cranks, because left cranks transmit torque and bending simultaneously while right cranks transmit these forces separately. The left crank transmits driving torque through the spindle to the right crank and chainwheel while the right crank drives the chainwheel directly. Besides that, the right crank transmits torque to the spindle only when standing on both pedals. Doing this with the right foot forward (goofy footed) is the only time the spindle transmits reverse torque.
-Jobst Brandt

>Most often, it is the left crank that suffers. Left cranks are fairly generic, so you can usually buy a replacement left arm for around US $20 at a well stocked bike shop. You don't generally need to worry about matching brand/model, as long as you get the same length.
--Sheldon Brown
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html
>>
>>1869830
>What does "install correctly" mean.
>>1869832
>I made it super fucking tight. I didn't have a torque wrench then but I do now.
Personally I think the calls for a torque wrench to solve the problem is an exercise in gaslighting. With a std 3/8" wrench, the installation torque is basically just 'as hard as you can'. A torque wrench is not helpful or necessary.

There are a few secrets to installation.
Firstly the tapers and the threads of the bolt have to be very clean. And then very lightly greased with a non-teflon grease.
You install very hard. And then here's the real secret:

The crank bolt often loosens, because the crank arm squirms, and walks a little further up the taper.That causes you to lose preload and then the crank will damage the taper by being ridden lose. The bolt is not unscrewing. Brandt has a more detailed explanation in that link above but he doesn't say what to do about it. After an installation of a square taper crank, you should snug the bolt following the next 5 rides (all preferably short-ish). You're not trying to drive the arm on further. You're not using much torque. Just check it's tight. Like with your hand right down by the socket on the ratchet. 90% of the time this is unnecessary with a clean, greased, hard installed crank arm. The rest it stops a failure.

It's exceptionally irritating that bike shops don't (can't) do this nor do they aknowledge it and i've dealt with many many people who have been fucked by this problem. The fact it's not conventional wisdom is astonishing.
It is what Jan Heine (proponent and manufacturer of $1000 square taper cranks) recommends.
>>
>>1869830
you also want to check that your spindle isn't damaged. It should be harder than the crank and usually the crank taper is the only one that deforms when ridden loose, but if the spindle is damaged you should replace the bottom bracket.
>>
>>1869719
>Which colour tape should I use?
Colors that echo a color on the frame usually look best. Failing that just pick white. Never black.
>>
>>1869838
>>1869840
i was taking the arm off right now to inspect the spindle, i'll try that thx
>>
>>1869844
the crank arm is probably junk if you rode it loose
>>
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>>1869846
yeah it looks fucked to me, is there any merit in replacing the whole crankset or is this strictly a left arm / bottom bracket issue like the sheldon brown link implies?
>>
>>1869849
actually i'm not seeing a badly deformed taper there, on the crank arm. Clean it and post another pic? I think it may be useable.
the bottom bracket though is definitely fucked, as it's lost the edges.

This could have been a separate issue. I think you used a crank bolt that should have had a washer, without one. And the taper may have bottomed out meaning the tapers themselves were not compatible. Theoretically practically all common cranks are the same 'standard' (JIS) but in reality they're all different.
>>
>>1869849
actually looking closer that crank arm looks pretty fucked. It's just kinda interesting that the corners of the taper, which is usually what rounds out, look quite sharp.
>>
>>1869855
that arm never had a washer on it, I can get one though if it will help prevent the arm from spontaneously failing, so far I've gathered that I need a 107mm square taper spindle / bottom bracket and another 165mm crank arm. And the tool to remove the bottom bracket (I already have a crank puller).

I enjoy fixing my bike but I like the repairs to actually last, thx for the help.
>>
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I have a shitty Poseidon Triton road bike, but want to develop as a rider (my goal is 3 W/Kg before buying a new bike).

What are my options for a power meter? Bike has shitty Chinese crank (Prowheel Ounce 50/34 Crankset 170mm Crank Arms) and some no name bottom bracket (68 x 110.5 English Threaded Square Tape).

I may have also stripped the threads when installing my new pedals so I'm a little worried about putting expensive power pedals on my current crankset.
>>
>>1869864
Buy a heart rate monitor instead. You can make an educated guess at power that will probably be close enough.
>>
>>1869864
I would wait until you upgrade your bike to get a power meter.
Just pick a segment of road and aim for a certain time, try to hold a certain speed, etc.
>>
Do I need to clean the drivetrain before storing the bike for the winter?
>>
>>1869893
you should clean everything before storing it. what you should more care about is what conditions you'll be storing it in
>>
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trek marlin 5, 2 months and 188 miles into ownership
>>
>>1869834
Ok, I'm willing to spend a bit more to get a good one. If I have to lose one benefit it'll have to be traction since I'll miss it the least. A slight but of durability would be good, as a fast bike isn't fun if you spend half the time changing inner tubes.

You're giving a bit of contradictory information. You said gator skins are tough but slow but you also said they are the option for speed. If there's a model that is an all rounder I'd rather get that then the GP 5000.

By the way I don't know if you're differentiating but I'm after quickness rather that top speed, as I ride in a busy city so I'm never going to maintain speed over distance. Acceleration makes a bike feel fast for me.
>>
>>1869843
I have back now, what's wrong with black? Also for that bike it'd have to be bright Yellow, if not black (or white as you say which will look dirty as fuck).
>>
>>1869843
>white with everything
>never black
>matching flashes of colour
Everything about this post is stupid, just fuck off and go ride your bike
>>
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Holy shit, this thread is the recurring /n/ ghetto.
I would never take advice from here.

Hard pass.
>>
>>1869945
Why don't you give your opinion then, you weirdo.
>>
>>1869940
ok, have fun
>>
>>1869945
>>white with everything
Yes. Unless maybe if the frame is already white then it could be excessive but I'd still consider it.
>>never black
Black is npc tape.
>>matching flashes of colour
Throwing random colors on that don't match or complement existing colors will make it look like clown vomit
>>1869943
>or white as you say which will look dirty as fuck
Don't you people wash your fucking hands? I only change tape once a year and it's never even gets close to looking shitty.
>>
>>1869834
>Gatorskins are...speed
lol

>>1869942
Grand prix 4 seasons is the middle ground, more flat defense but still pretty fast. Rolling resistance hurts acceleration just as much as top speed.
>>
>>1869951
i will not2p
>>
>>1869956
Getting them.
>>
Any tips for hydraulic calipers that won't stay centered when squeezing the lever down and tightening it? The front makes a loud ass turkey gobble grinding noise and the back has a loud squeal that almost sounds like car tires skidding because of it. The rear one is especially dangerous because of that sound. Even tried alternating between the bolts on turning it very slightly every time and it's still off centered in the end. When the caliper bolts are slightly loose the brakes make no sound when riding it so it's definitely a centering issue pushing the rotors to one side.
>>
>>1869961
Yeah, that shit is really annoying. My suggestion is usually what you said you'd already tried: alternately, slowly tightening the bolts.

One thing that drives me fucking nuts is that the frame/fork manufacturers are lazy/cheap and often don't do a good job of facing the brake mounts. It's usually not a huge deal and many, many bikes/brakes are fine even though they're not perfect. But sometimes it's laughably terrible and you just can't get a brake to stop rubbing or squealing unless you face the mounts yourself.
>>
>>1869956
You bad boy, good thing I checked before buying.
>>
>>1869961
when was the last time you bled them
>>
>>1869956
Oops forgot the picture.
>>
>>1869969
so what's the issue? of course they're gonna feel a bit solid and heavy versus something like a GP5k
>>
>>1869970
Well I knew they wouldn't be AS light and fast, but I didn't expect as far a sold and heavy, those are two words that are never going to go down well.

I'm just going to get the 5000.

They might not specialise in being durable, but sounds like they aren't doing bad in that area anyway. So for the ride quality I'd get it's well worth it.
>>
>>1869971
oh well, as long as you're buying a good tire that's all that matters.
though I can't say that "we didn't get any punctures while riding on light gravel" is real evidence of any sort of puncture protection
pls report back with real world evidence when you get them
>>
>>1869947
holy shit, this anon is retarded. i would never care about its opinion.

hard pass.
>>
>>1869972
Nobody wants my report, I'm sure a lot of anons already have them.
>>
>>1869969
>trusting journoshills
lol

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/continental-grand-prix-4-season#weight
>Measured Weight 228 grams
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/continental-grand-prix-5000-2018#weight
>Measured Weight 221 grams
>>
>>1869977
>different tires weigh different amounts
wow
>>
>>1869977
not him but having actually ridden several sets of both of those tires and switched directly between 4 seasons and gp4k on the same bike, 4 seasons are demonstrably more sluggish. Like WAY slower than a good fast tire like gp4k or gp5k.

trusting spinning metal roller retards is peak delusion. they should be treated like a good hot take, not dogma.
>>
>>1869978
>scientific testing using simulated pavement bad
>subjective opinions of journalism majors afraid of pissing off the companies sending them free shit good

>>1869979
7 extra grams doesn't make it "heavy"
>>
>>1869980
>Like WAY slower than a good fast tire like gp4k or gp5k.
#Science says it's ~9w slower at 18mph, no one ever claimed it was as fast as gp5k, just a lot better than gatorskins.
>>
>>1869982
yes that's true and it's a very good tire

I just don't agree that it's light.
>>
>>1869984
7 grams is less than 200 farts, anon.
>>
>>1869654
>>
>>1869658
Thanks for the help!
>>
>>1869981
i don't recall saying it was heavy.
>>
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>>1869947
>working on stuff with dad
Thanks for bringing back comfy memories, anon.
>>
>>1869980
Wow thanks, that's all I need. It's a no Brainer.
>>
>>1869984
You were just criticising them, now they're good tires.
>>
>>1867693
Guys what should I use to clean an old steel frame full of dirt and sticky dust?
Btw is pic rel quality tubing ?
>>
>>1870011
water and dish soap
then wd-40 or similar
>>
>>1869956
>>Gatorskins are...speed
>lol
They are if you compare them to other high durability tires.
>>1869942
Never trade traction for speed IMO, is what makes gatorskins so bad and dangerous. There's a reason people call them gatorslips or memeskins, they're a terrible tire that trades everything for durability.
>>
boys i overtightened my bike's rear through-axle and I can't get it out because I stripped the head

how do I get it out?

I have a spare wheel so destroying the back wheel hub is an option, + I bought a tool-less rear axle
>>
>>1870014
Erm I'm absolutely going to trade speed for traction.
>>
>>1870016
Kek rip
>>
>>1869652
Aren't Specialized and Marin doing that already with Microshift components (that aren't Advent or Advent X) being used on low-end bikes?
>>
>>1870016
find an imperial hex wrench that is ever so slightly bigger than your metric bolt, and hammer it in
>>
>>1870019
>>1870025
ok managed to hammer a bigger hex bit into the screw hole and I have an impact that goes to 140nm, should I try to remove it this way or should I just buy a wrench tomorrow ?
>>
>>1870035
do it faggot
>>
>>1870035
how about just drilling the sucker out !? Just gotta hit the threaded sections. Alternatively weld shit on.
>>
>>1869998
>freewheel
oh nonoonononoono
>>
How would you guys DIY this type of clamp, or would you? The OEM part costs 25 euros with shipping, which seems excessive. Hose clamp sure, but would need a nut that's somehow pointing away from the clamp.

Got a really good deal on the shifters, can't wait to find out what else is missing lol
>>
>>1870058
it works on freehubs the same
>>
best budget winter legwear? i currently have padded shorts and some old outer layer pants (just non stretchy ripstop nylon, not gore-tex and no thermal layer, kind of like a windbreaker jacket but for legs). what should i be looking for to optimize my setup without having to buy full on cycling tights. jogging tights to put over my shorts? leg warmers? base layer to wear under my shorts?
>>
>>1870085
They do make square nuts. They're often employed in slots. For example in the feet of an electric winch. Getbsome of those. For the band a section of tubing of the right diameter. Drill, weld on nut. You're done. Also many ways to skin a cat. Weld sqare stock to band drill and tap if odd nut cant be found ? Or roll with hex nut instead ?
>>
>>1870091
I think it depends what temperatures you're going to be riding in. Legwarmers are great, but if it's too cold your shorts-area may get too chilly since it'll just be a thin layer of lycra.
>>
>>1870091
I got several pairs of polypropylene long underwear the cheapest I could find 20 years ago and they're still good but the elastic waists are blown so I cinched them with safety pins. polypro is supposed to wick moisture best but iunno probably something better is out now. also a friend said putting them in the clothes dryer fucks up the fiber so I always let them air dry but not even sure that's true
>>
What was it like changing your threaded fork to a threadless fork?
I'm thinking about changing the suspension fork of my current bike to a non-suspension one like picrel, the current one has 1-1/8" threaded steerer tube.
>>
>>1870141
>cr-mo steeel
You'd just need a new headset - or at least the upper - and stem.
>>
>>1870144
so theoretically it should all work perfectly if i buy a compatible headset for the bike and a modern stem
>>
>>1870146
Yeah, just remember that if the fork length and offset aren't the same, it may feel a bit different.
>>
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My rear mudguards crooked and hitting the wheel when I ride

I fixed it with some duck tape but how do I actually fix it? It uses 3 screws which are aids to reach but I don't even know how I'd fix it

Can't just bend it either its stiff and wobbly
>>
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>>1870178
I'm not sure what you mean about the 3 screws. Is this one of the mounting points?
>>
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>>1870179
Yes, it has 1 screw at the back which connects to rear light

Other 2 attach to frame at front
Its a big ass cargo ebike
>>
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>>1870179
>>1870181
>>
>get bike with two flat tyres
>both tubes are old and look to have large splits on the
>change tubes
>go for an hour ride all good
>front is flat in the morning with a large hole right on a seam on the side facing the wheel
>replace it again, ride 10mins to the gym, come back out and its completely flat with the same looking hole in the same place losing air as quickly as I can inflate it
I've looked inside the wheel and tyre and there doesn't seem to be any sharp bits and the rim tap doesn't have any holes. What should I look at now? It's seems to be right over a spoke nipple but I've pressed my finger into it hard from every direction and I can't get any remotely sharp feeling from it. Also is it possible to patch a tube when the hole is almost on top of a seam?
>>
>>1870181
>>1870178
Just thought if I bend the metal connector price upwards it should fix
>>
Why does my Pump not work sometimes? It's literally infuriating.

It'll just not inflate the tire and the needle will jump up to 10 for no reason.
>>
>>1870037
>>1870041
ok managed to take it out like this guy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XbGyKFRc6w
>>
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>>1870037
>>1870041
>>1870019
got rid of this fucking piece of shit
>>
>>1870256
I'm the anon that laughed at you. But I've got to say, feels good now doesn't it?
>>
>>1870276
yeah I almost came in my pants when the fucker finally came out
>>
>>1870190
>tube fails in the exact same spot directly over a spoke hole twice in a day
>WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THIS???
Replace the rim tape dummy. If you're too broke for regular rim tape use a few layers of gorilla tape. If you're too broke for *that* and you have a rim strip (not tape) that you can move around you could try taking it off and putting it back on rotated a little so there's fresh material over the spoke holes, then gouge out a new hole for the valve.

>Also is it possible to patch a tube when the hole is almost on top of a seam?
Can't hurt to try. If it holds air overnight it should be fine. The patches with the tube of glue work much better than the ones that are just stickers.
>>
>>1870220
Valve probably isn't open. If it's presta make sure you unscrewed the tip, if it's schrader make sure the pump head is on far enough to push down the thing in the middle. Could also be clogged with mud or something.
>>
>>1870315
Presta, pretty sure I unscrew it, but I'll make a conscious effort next time.
>>
>>1870377
press on it with your finger, make sure it's fully open
>>
>>1870496
and try putting the pump head on at different insertion depths, not too deep
>>
>>1870496
but not literally fully unthreaded, it becomes vulnerable to bending, just open enough to let air through the best it can
>>
>>1870604
>>1870604
>>1870604
v
>>
>>1870190
>Also is it possible to patch a tube when the hole is almost on top of a seam?
yes but sand the seam down there or it won't hold.
>>
>>1870497
Ah maybe that's it, the valve is always definitely open. Why not too deep? I kept thinking maybe it wasn't deep enough and pushing it down harder with no's luck.
>>
What's the best way to build speed? I see a lot of pro cyclists with lateral rocking while peeling hard.

I would've thought it was wasted energy and bad form, but maybe not.
>>
>>1870619
i'm not sure how the pump head works inside. there are different designs. maybe it pushes on the valve core slightly so that it closes. people say that they don't need very long valve stems, maybe like 10-15mm protruding from the rim, so it makes sense that the pump head shouldn't need to "deepthroat" it.
>>
>>1870819
nvm maybe not literally 10-15mm protruding but like your rim total depth + 15mm or so for the recommended valve stem length
>>
>>1870753
Pull up on the bar on the side you're pedaling down on so your feet have something to push against. Much better leverage. This does assume some measurable amount of upper body strength so not applicable for all cyclists.
>>
>>1870820
Rim bed-to-valve hole distance will be way smaller than total rim depth.
>>
>>1870819
Kek got it.
>>
>>1870841
Thanks, I'll try this.
>>
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Which lock is better?

ABUS 9809 Steel-O-Chain Steel Bike Chain Lock
>8mm x 140cm - 3kg - level 12/15 security - $148.36
https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B078MXVYZ2/?

New York Chain Evolution Series-4 1210
>12mm x 100cm - 6kg - 9/10 security - $142.48
https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B001KQ5ZRG/?

using a huge ebike so length is important, want something preferably portable
>>
i let my bike sit in the garage (on the ground) for 7 months when i was in the hospital. any chance the tires dry rotted? they're marathon plus
>>
>>1871189
nah it's more like if you're riding on decades old tires it's not ideal but some neckbeards still do it. 7 months should be fine unless they've become lumpy from having the weight of the bike all on one spot over time.



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