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Scrolling through marketplace edition.

Post here for help buying a bike.

If you want recs off craigslist, post your local site, height, budget, and intended use.

Recommending specific models of new bikes is kinda pointless because of availability. If you want help choosing between real options post for hot takes.

Always buy a bike you like the look of and like the paint of. And that fits you well.
CAAD10 for $600? I dont necesarily need another road/race bike, but it would be nice to have a backup/one to keep on the trainer.
link the old thread, stupid faggot
shit myb forgot. thank you
that takes me back
there was a time on /n/ when caad10s were shilled relentlessly, before the creak happened.

1200 gets you a decent new entry level road bike. The caad is probably nicer but they're roughly equivalent. imo 1/2 the price of a new equivalent is fair for something in very good serviced original or restored condition.
So it would depend on condition. It does look very clean but go scrutinize it, i'd be haggling down to 400-550 if there are problems.
Ah didn't know these were in the cannondale creak era, good to know. Definitely going to haggle him. Probably wont pay more than $500 regardless. But it seems like a good extra bike/something else to tinker with
caad 12 was the creak era
iunno how much truth there is to one or the other commonly creaking or not though

should be an awesome bike. i think it's kinda ugly but a silver post and some black bartape would improve it a lot
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would this caad9 fit me? im 5'3" male.
I couldn't find the height chart for the caad9 but these are the al3 and optimo that are my size (according to their height charts) for reference
try to fall into the 90s mtb meme, but 90s bikes are really expensive in this poorfag country. it literally suits me better to put a few more bucks and buy a new one
I know that feel bro. around here the only cheap bikes are department stores BSOs, any semi-decent chromoly MTB is already being sold as a "gravel conversion" for a ridiculous price.
yea its a classic AFAIC
my first real bike
crazy light
its sort of the last of the 'jackhammer' riding aluminum frames
but it felt so amazing when climbing out of the saddle
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what's a fair offer for this bike?

seems like a fair price desu
new these are like 1800
Advice for beginner aluminum XC bike? Looking for an upgrade from my 2006 GT Avalanche. Something that climbs well and is good for very long distances, possibly even adding a rack if I ever go fishing/camping

Max budget 2.5k$ CAD, Quebec area. Till now my options are Devinci Kobain 11S, BMC AL Four and Roscoe 7. I understand they are not really XC focused but I can't find anything else
BMC AL Four is XC though, get it :)
burgerfag here I never see 90s mtb on sale anywhere. maybe if i lived in park city utah or colorado springs? lol but yeah, big metropolis city and no one is selling them here. its a meme, i promise
No dropper and shit fork though...Devinci Kobain 11 is just 2lbs more
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bros should I start buying up a group or two of mech 105 before they all sell out and I have to buy the meme Di2?
Probably a good investment. The same way that NOS 90s xt and dura ace components are only building in value as they add more and more sprockets and replacement parts are only produced in budget lines so will mechanical be quality mechanical shifting in the future when the only alternative will be some Chinese generic.
Be serious 90s stuff is only wanted for period correct stuff. It’s shit quality.
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Guys should I buy this as my first road bike?
I like the paintjob and it should be my size. It currently has some 3x9 groupset on it but I guess I could go 2x11 sometime in the future (is this possible?) Any caveats I should be mindful of?
okay nobike
For 7/8 sometimes even 9 speed you can't find anything modern that's better. Going 10+ speed modern components will be better but you can't necessarily fit them into old frames.
>For 7/8 sometimes even 9 speed you can't find anything modern that's better. Going 10+ speed modern components will be better but you can't necessarily fit them into old frames.
actually I'm not even sure like old deore dx is just way better build quality than modern slx which would be its equivalent.
modern is only better in terms of features like clutches etc.
It's campagnolo
Many of the consumables are more or much more expensive and harder to find and the tools are meme tools (though still quite cheap and common enough). Atleast it's not 8 speed campag which truely has bullshit compatibility.

You're right you could over time convert away from it but campag is good stuff and it is well worth trying to service and use.

I suggest you only buy it if it actually is in good working condition. A good tell is look at the hoods. They're textured. If they're worn very smooth around the grip area it's a high mileage group, and i'd probably avoid it as a noob, unless it's very cheap.
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The ad says it's Campagnolo Xenon with brakes being Shimano RX 100
Here's the cockpit
is there a reason you haven't told us the price yet?
The price is really really good, I already contacted the seller. 250 euros
I say get it and ride it into the ground. Campy is great but upgrading it is a pain in the ass.
Just out of curiosity - what does make upgrading Campagnolo more challenging than other brands?
not him but you're thinking about this wrong.
If you wanted to improve that bike you'd probably -service- it, not upgrade it.
So new cables, cassette, bottom bracket, chainrings if they wear out.
Wheels if they wear out.

Those consumables are all more expensive and harder to buy and the tools to change them are specific to campagnolo in many cases.
You also won't commonly find reasonable used parts on the market.

Improving bikes is not primarily about upgrading them.
Chink carbon with full ultegra di2 (r8070) for $1450
Frame has a tiny crack on the top tube so it might be unusable
Is the (used) r8070 groupset worth the price if it's in relatively good condition?
are triple cranksets cringe (vs compact)?
They made total sense in the 7/8/9 era because you could have reasonably tight spaced flat gears and climbing gears

The shift pattern isn't as forgiving though, especially if you're not very strong. Going to the granny is an awkward shift you don't want to be doing unless you're actually on a climb and so for most rolling riding you're stuck basically with a tight cassette and a std crank, which is pretty brutal gearing. Or the shifting is annoying.

And they make sense for touring bikes.
So basically they're not very good for beginners. Tight gaps between gears is also not that big a deal for an untrained rider.

Campag triple front shifting was better than shimano though because it's micro ratcheting not indexing.
hm thanks. Im looking at a caad9 and the triple crankset is the only thing that was giving me pause. sounds like it isn't a deal breaker. I think ill get used to it
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just remember that if the front shifting is driving you insane, you can always fix it for cheap by janking a friction shifter for it, lance styles
are rei bikes any good?
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Like all bikes they sell or the REI "co-op" brand? The name brands are obviously fine and just whatever that name brands reputation is. REI bikes are fine for beginners, but lets just say if you go to any road or MTB group rides, no one is riding a co-op bike.
I think that's more of a selection effect though, true bicycle enthusiasts just like the top brands. Weekend casuals who buy co-op bikes don't care enough to go to group rides. From what I can tell they're totally fine, but just lack sex appeal.
Does anyone have a list of sites to purchase a road bike from? I'm leaning towards buying new compared to used.
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This is for sale for 250 euros, is it worth it if I try to talk the seller down to 175? Should be in ridable condition according to seller
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Any experience importing bikes from the US in Canada? I want to buy a Salsa bike but I couldn't find anywhere if it was made in the US or not because if it's the later I gotta pay a shitload more taxes
imo, no. old steel bikes are definitely nice to ride, but they are not worth that much. you will most likely need new tires, tubes, rim tape and chain. and potentially the casette, chainrings, and bottom bracket are worn as well. if it's your size and you haven't found anything better, it might be worth it to you, though.
>i am 5'10
>ride a 56

Get big bike. Go fast.
New to /n/, was pointed here from /bgg/.
Is there like a general buying guide? Lurking here shows there are a shitton of different bike types and frames, there's stuff with low entry, stuff without etc.
Is there like a ressource where you can just read up on the styles and options and their up- and downsides? The tradeoffs you do? Either in text or in a concise video?
I'm asking because I'd love to get a general idea what I am looking for when buying before I ask you anons for specifics.
Looking for a general guide rather than specific product advice, because I am in the EU and the US market is probably somewhat different. Once I understand the options I can do some digging myself before I ask more.

I can of course go into detail into me and what I want, but part of it is I feel like I don't know what I want because I don't know what even the options are.
i'm sure you could find some kind of guide from googling, but it's likely to be paid for / shill certain stuff. if you tell us your country/region, what type of riding you want to do, and your budget, the euroanons will be able to give you suggestions.
I looked around a bit, but it's not as easy as I thought. There are rough guides, but I feel like they are filled with shills or have a very specific "outcome" they are trying to push towards, just like you said. At least it means I didn't miss some sort of /bbg/ guide somewhere. v

I'll give some info for my usecase and general questions, who knows maybe it helps:
EU market, specifically germany.
Budget is variable, though I do not need the most premium of premium items. In general I am a pretty frugal person unless the additional price justifies a large gain in quality. I also don't care about brands, but I do generally dislike items that will break down quickly. Within the city there are some hills and stuff, with a total of around 80m elevation.
As for where I'd ride varies, though I live in a city and would mostly use it there, as well as in surrounding forests. German forests in this case means usually flattened trails, worst it would get is the occasional tree roots or coarse gravel when riding to my fishing spot. No mountainbiking or something like that.
General uses would be transportation within the city, riding to the nearby lake/river for fishing/swimming, maybe short to mid range bike camping (but all that would fit into a backpack). Possibly hauling something from the hardware store to my apartment (obviously with a trailer or something).
I am 184 cm, so 6'0 in american measurements.

Now to the 2 big caveats:
1. I'm considering an e-bike (as in Pedelec, according to EU regulations etc.). If I choose a pedelec over a traditional bike, the battery must be removable. I'd store it in the basement and take the battery to my apartment for charging.
2. The biggest caveat: I am legally considered "severely physically" disabled. Essentially I am like a normal person, but weaker. That's part of why I am considering an pedelec, because I struggle with elevation uphill on my old non powered bike. Everything else I can essentially do like a normal person, though I guess I probably rest a bit more of my weight on the seat than a normal person, and a bit less on my legs/the pedals. As such I think a too sporty, horizontal riding position may not be ideal for me.

As for range, it'd usually be short to midrange, the longest distance I could see riding would be back to my hometown for now, which is 50 km. But honestly if 50km of range is too much to ask, that's reasonable too. That trip would be the exception. (I am assuming range is a faily optimistic number in ecomode anyways).

General questions I have:
- Based on those requirements: Mostly city, some fields and forest, no mountainbiking; what type of frames/styles of bike should I consider?
- What is the tradeoff between a upright sitting position and a forward/horizontal sitting position. I'd use my bike for driving to forest for foraging, fishing and strolls, not extreme sports, since as I said, I am disabled. How could choosing something with a more upright seating position fuck me over?
- What about "easy entry" bikes, those with the lower entry on the side? Does it affect handling or only durability? How much?
Ultimately I suspect I will have to do some test rides at a store nearby to see how horizontal/vertical my sitting position should be, but when I look online I am overwhelmed with the shitton of different bikes I see.

Thanks for any anon having any advice or ressources to point me towards.
Es ist schwer einzuschätzen, wie stark du bist im Vergleich zu einer nicht körperlich beeinträchtigten Person. Für einen gesunden und halbwegs geübten Radfahrer ist möglich auf fast jedem Fahrrad 50km am Stück oder mit kurzen Pausen zu fahren, sofern a) passende Radkleidung getragen wird und b) genügend Kohlenhydrate nachgeschoben werden.

Aerodynamik ist ziemlich wichtig bei höheren Geschwindigkeiten oder bei Gegenwind und Seitenwind. Und die Rolle von Luftwiderstand verstärkt sich quadratisch zur Reisegeschwindigkeit. Das heißt wenn du die 50km schneller bewältigen möchtest, solltest du aerodynamischer sein. Bei sehr niedrigen Geschwindigkeiten spielt Aerodynamik keinen entscheidenden Grund.

Am besten wäre es, in einem Radgeschäft mal verschiedene Radtypen auszuprobieren (idealerweise würde man viele Kilometer fahren, um ein Gefühl zu entwickeln).
Ein E-Gravelbike ist super flexibel, kann Reifen unterschiedlicher größen aufnehmen, hat einen vergleichsweise breiten Lenker und trotzdem kann man auch eine halbwegs aerodynamische Sitzposition einnehmen. Das Problem ist, das dieser Typ von Rad sehr teuer ist, da genau für dieses Segment die Marketingtrommel angeschlagen wird.
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pedelec sounds like the right choice. you will want a somewhat angled riding position, but not even as much as this pic, maybe 70-75 degrees. a fully upright position isn't as comfortable as people think - doesn't engage enough core muscles and makes pedaling with any force more difficult.
what is your disability anon
He mentioned having reduced muscle strength
Ah so he’s American
>Am besten wäre es, in einem Radgeschäft mal verschiedene Radtypen auszuprobieren (idealerweise würde man viele Kilometer fahren, um ein Gefühl zu entwickeln).
Jo das dachte ich mir schon etwas. Dachte nur ich könnte mich schonmal etwas orientieren damit ich in einem Geschäft den Leuten erklären kann was ich grob will.
That sounds about right, the one on my old bike was more horizontal than that, so I wouldn't mind that kind of angle at all.
I don't want to say the specific name, because it's rare enough that it's essentially doxing. It's a form of myopathy that does not progress (or at least that's what doctors guess). The best way I can describe it is that I am like a normal person, but weaker. It affects both my endurance and strength, but not equally as much. My strength is strongly reduced, meaning that I may use the railing when walking up stairs or prefer having a wall or tree or something to get up from the floor. Meanwhile my endurance is also reduced, but far less, to the point where it's really only noticeable in sports rather than everyday life. Like I can almost do a normal hike, though I may get exhausted a little earier, but if you were to do a short sprint I couldn't keep up.
It's severe enough that I have a disability card and cheaper access to public transportation, but not so severe that I wasn't able to go to normal school as a kid or can't do everyday stuff (hiking, swimming, etc) with friends. That being said it influenced my lifestyle a little, since I obviously never got into stuff like team sports, because it feels kind of ass to drag your team down.
As I said I already owned a bike in the past, my issue is just with elevation, on a flat plane I can keep going for a long distance. It's just once it's uphill that I struggle severely.
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Do you guys have any advice on whats could be the best new road bike I can buy for less than 1500?
less thank 10 kg possibly and more of an endurance geometry rather than hardcore racer. (I may just do some randonees, no competitions).
Dont care about frame material as far as its well built.
I would split 500 groupset (11 speed rim brake)
500 frame (chinese branded carbon, or used alloy)
500 wheelset
Sounds like you need the most basic style pedal assisted flat handlebar bike with a relaxed riding position.

I say get this:

1) German made
2) well made respected name but not flashy
3) absolute newest generation bosch mid drive motor
4) made for the road but can tackle any little gravel you throw at it

Cube makes tons of ebikes maybe poke around their website or go to a local dealer and check it out.

Depending on your disability you may want the low step thru frame styles. Cube makes a step thru they call the Easy Entry, a Mixte they call a Trapeze then the normal relaxed geometry top tube bike frame.
Ribble Endurance AL Disc
Specialized Allez Sport
trek domane al3
Canyon Endurance AL6
Cube attain
First of all, thanks for the advice anon. Cube is actually a good company as far as I know, my father used to own a cube bike (non motorized) and whenever I am over and don't have my bike I sometimes use it to ride to my fishign spot in my hometown. I didn't think they'd make e-bikes/pedelecs, then again they are a quickly growing market segment.
One question though: What's the deal with low step thru frame styles? I would assume that the same bike with a low step thru would have less stability than a normal frame and obviously look different, but the stability probably won't matter much unless I did heavy duty shit, like it's not going to break on me. But does it have big effects on handling? From what I remember the two low step thru bikes I ever tried handled like shit in corners, but that may have been coincidence.
I guess what I am asking is what effects does a low step through frame have beyond the ease of access?
>I guess what I am asking is what effects does a low step through frame have beyond the ease of access?

you nailed it. it's heavier and it won't handle as well off road or in general. it is also less stiff but that really wont matter except off road.

If swinging a leg is an issue for you I'd maybe look into that Mixte frame cube they call it the Trapeze style frame.

If you don't have any issues with a standard frame bike and can comfortably throw a leg over I'd just buy the men's frame. But if you have any issues throwing a leg over i'd have absolutely no bones about buying a step thru or mixte/trapeze.

Too bad you're in Europe I'd tell you to get a Rad Runner it would be awesome for you especially with the 20" fat tire wheels. But in europe you have to pedal you can't just throttle when you want so they don't sell very many 20" fat tire bikes.

The rad wagon and rad runner are the most popular ebikes in my neighborhood but those are illegal in the EU
>The rad wagon and rad runner are the most popular ebikes in my neighborhood but those are illegal in the EU
Yeah we are getting kinda cucked with our "anything above 6 km/h must be pedal assist" rules. It is what it is.
Thanks for the clarification on the frames. My old bike had a normal (high) frame and I had no real issues with that, but I guess the safe option is going to a bike store, testing it out, then deciding.
My thought process is basically: As high a frame as possible, as low as necessary.
Thanks again anon, you already helped me a lot.
Triangles are very stiff shapes. If the shape is less stiff this will either lead to more flex which can increase comfort (seatpost, fork are cantilevered dampening blows). However in the frame itself you typically want stiffness and predictability. Therefore step through frames are either less stiff or need to be overbuilt making them much heavier. Because of this no performance oriented bikes are built in that shape and therefore any bike with step through geometry you're likely to find are some omafiets Dutch bikes with upright position, heavy weight, high center of gravity, and cheap "city" tires.

Another option you could try are recumbent bikes. They are really aero allowing you to get the most bang out of wattage. The only thing is that they are not ideal for off road usage but mild gravel roads are fine.
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reminder to buy a good classic groupset NOS before it's too late.

The complete bikes with them are already gone.
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man you should bend that strut so it can be under the rack would look a lot cleaner
the idea of building my own ideal bike sounds fun (I did assemble my own PC), but Im barely able to adjust my current shifter indexing and change a tube. I dont think I will feel safe on a contraption assembled by me.

I struggle to find ribble in my country. All the others seem like solid choices, Ill see what is most convinient and available thanks!
I love how the only difference between these groups is the price. and those RDs are ugly as fuck, my Sora RD3000 is unironically much more sleek. I mean the Tiagra RD4400 it replaced (after I managed to crash and land exactly on, and only on the derailleur and get it completely mangled) was nicer though, shame I couldn't find a good replacement at the time.
i suspect cinelli anon is doing that to avoid tire rub. its an odd setup that puts the entire weight of the rack on one bolt but that bolt does look solid.
Looking for a gravel/drop bar mtb that can fit wide tires, lots of mounting options, can fit a suspension fork if I ever change my mind and not made of carbon. Something like a Salsa Cutthroat
Be sure to take an e-bike. I know someone in a similar situation to you and he owns a low instep one with the most powerful Bosch CX drivetrain and he is perfectly happy with it. In the mode with the highest assisstance he can easily go uphill and even strong headwinds aren't an issue. Standard, non electric bikes will soon be a niche thing because anything electric ist far more comfortable to ride and vastly increases your possible distances.8rxddb
Yeah it's probably the best option. Buying an ebike just feels like something that requires more research as the budget is automatically more, the technology can differ a lot without it being immediately apparent and somehow I mentally consider a bike more of a "hobby thing" and a ebike as an actual utility vehicle
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>(I did assemble my own PC)
assembling a pc is not a skilled task, it's something a 12 year old boy might do as his next step up from playing with legos

Your instinct is absolutely right not to assemble a $$ custom bike with little experience wrenching. Though I do encourage you to learn more about working on bikes, and you could jump in the deep end overhauling an old beater, not assembling a new custom build.

>in my country
you know anon if you're asking advice on what bikes to buy it might be helpful to say what that fucking is
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>in my country
Kona Sutra LTD
I live in shitaly. Mostly all big brands are available here plus some weird small local ones.
>my old shitty heavy mtb that requires 400 yuros in repairs
>cube nuroad
>canyon grail
>rose allroad
>ribble cgr
>a bolt cutter
What should I go for?
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What's a reasonable price to look for in a used bike? Pic related is some Dutch brand touring bike that's about 450 euro.
I did buy this bike, it seems to me that everything was in good condition, even though I could not find this particular model in the Gitane catalogs. This should only have an aluminium fork, but it has a carbon one and the particular paint-job does not match the catalogs either, but the stickers look original. Additional stickers ("MANGO" on the top tube) "CEFAR" on downtube) indicate to me that this might have been an amateur team bike somewhere in its history. The likely model year is 2002, even though the seller thought it was from the late 90s. But they only started the wavy seat stay thing in 2002 http://www.gitaneusa.com/images/catalog/f2002_pg4.jpg, and the shifting cable inserts/stoppers on the steering tube match that year as well. The mystery remains the carbon fork I guess.

Next steps: I need to find a shorter stem (110->90mm) and more narrow handlebars (these are 440mm, I'll go for 380mm). I'm leaving the old campagnolo groupset on there for now, and I'll eventually swap the entire group out. Those shifters are in good condition, but I don't like that you cannot shift down in the drops and the shifting feel is a bit murky desu.
You're not wrong there but if you know what you want to do with it, it's fairly easy to narrow it down. There is a section of e-bikes called SUVs with wider tires, full-suspension and equipped with fenders and bike racks. I call them pensioner's favourite because you can basically do anything with them. The larger brands will have drivetrains by Bosch or Shimano, sometimes Yamaha or Brose. They differ a little in the way the drive e.g. some feel more powerful but it doesn't really matter.
Old mtb

>was faithful until you neglected her 400 euro worth of repairs
>the machine spirit knows you did not so it on purpose, hence will forgive you and grant you many happy rides after you repair her
Your bike most likely does not need 400 euros in repair. for 300 euros you can get a whole slx groupset...
post your bike to let us assess the situation.
Thanks, can't post bike tho it's currently being repaired.
It's actually 300ish just a typo but needs many things. Haven't invested anything for years and just driven it through university time.

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