[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/n/ - Transportation

[Advertise on 4chan]

Name
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 107 posters in this thread.

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]


[Advertise on 4chan]


File: IMG_20201118_213619_01.jpg (1.23 MB, 4032x3024)
1.23 MB
1.23 MB JPG
Damn Anon are you ok edition

sheldonbrown.com
parktool.com/blog/repair-help
yarchive.net/bike/index.html

previous: >>1795360
>>
No pybt so bqg will have to do. New wheel today. It’s 9mm wider. Looks good.
>>
File: 20211006_182045.jpg (476 KB, 1200x961)
476 KB
476 KB JPG
When im peddaling, no matter the gear, i hear a dull snap the kind of snap that happens when there is to much tension in the rear derailleur cable. The tension of the cable is fine the shifting is great and i even replaced the cable but i still hear it almost 2 snap per full crack rotation even if i did not hear it i can feel it, do you ever had this problem? its starting to chip down my motivation away it's so annoying.
>>
>>1797425
Is your chain slipping my lad?
>>
>>1797427
nope its a very dull, non metallic sound like, like cracking your knuckles and it feels like it came form the rear mech/cranks but only if i'm riding it
>>
>>1797425
Last time my bike was doing this, my quick link exploded and I crashed into a tree.

Turn the bike upside down, and slowly pedal until you hear the snap noise. then STOP and go back and forth until you can see where along the drivetrain the snap noise is coming from. I'd bet it's somewhere along the jocket wheels.

The issue could be the quick link needs to be cleaned and reconnected. Or the drivetrain is filthy, or the chain is tight. But since you only hear it twice per crank turn, it's likely a specific segment on the chain
>>
>>1797418
For a CX, has anyone used mini V brakes? My wide-profile canti's are pretty shitty desu. Deciding between these or regular cantis as a replacement.

Are they annoying to set up? Do they give decent rim clearance? Work guud with shimano briifters? etc etc..
>>
>>1797431
The quick link might be it, i tried spinning the drivetrain with the bike upside down but the popping came out only when im riding the bike. I'll keep you posted btw thanks
>>
>>1797425
Sounds like it could be a number of things and it's impossible to nail a single one down without a video. If your chain looks fine my guess is pedal bearings or pedal threads needing grease. Maybe chainring bolts? Perhaps the bottom bracket bearings are knackered or the BB threads need grease? Who knows. Many such causes for noise.
>>
durianrider
>>
>>1797433
at the very least, disconnect the QL, clean your chain, and reconnect it with gusto. Good luck bro
>>
>>1797438
i changed it with a new one i had around, it's raining rn so i cant test it but i will sooner or later
>>
File: Capture.png (117 KB, 110x805)
117 KB
117 KB PNG
yo wtf is this shit? i polished my frame and undid the touch up done by the factory. this decal has this fucked up section. why would it have fucking holes punched through it? looks like it's down to bare metal. i was doing to just do a spot repair fill in the circles at the bottom with black paint and put varnish over the circles but now after looking at it closer with my phone flashlight i'm leaning toward covering up the decal with black vinyl wrap. it's a simple enough shape to do the vinyl with knifeless tape but it's a bit of a pain in the ass to install and there are slight downsides to using vinyl wrap like the edge and mismatch in texture might be somewhat noticeable and it's not very scratch resistant.
>>
i also have an oil-based gloss paint marker that wouldn't need varnish but that's kinda gross if it will tend to rub off later
>>
What's a good way to reduce rolling resistance?
My hybrid bike is like a bastard child between an omafiets and a mountain bike.
Yet, on relatively flat ground, I can never go faster than 20 km/h - the resistance in the pedals are just too hard - sometimes it feels like trying to keep at 20 km/h is as hard as going uphill at 5 km/h.
The frame is aluminium and the heaviest thing on the bike is almost certainly me...

Do you need an aggressively designed carbon bike to maintain higher speeds on flat ground?
>>
>>1797453
it doesn't look all that terrible though, the pic makes it out to be worse than it is. it's mainly the 5 circles at the bottom that are visible. and the 6th circle/chip on top when you shine a light on it so that you get the reflections in the metal. the section is only about 2 inches and it's on the back of the seat tube. maybe i will just touch it up with a water based paint marker and varnish to keep the paint looking as nice as possible from the side and front angles, and not noticeably bad from the rear.
>>
>>1797459
Check your wheel bearings, pedal bearings, bottom bracket.
Likely something is off if you can't go faster than 20 kph.

For going fast it is also very important to be as aero as you can. Slam your stem etc.

For fine tuning you can upgrade to better tires to reduce the actual rolling resistance. But fix the big issues first.
>>
>>1797466
I changed my freewheel gears to help with hill climbing, but when that was being dealt with, the bike mechanic (who's apparently a former semi-pro cyclist) told me that the rear axle was way too tight, and sorted that out.
I have Nukeproof platform pedals which rotate fairly freely... not sure about the bottom bracket and how to check that.

I have these Kenda tires - they're not as wide as MTB tyres, but they're wider than most road tyres. Think they're supposed to be "city" tyres, but they're kinda consistent with cyclo-cross tyre dimensions.
As I said, my bike is like a bastard child of an omafiets and a mountain bike. It is probably more at home in an urban centre rather than on rural country roads, but I like the utility and the fact that it's relatively easy to ride and take your time.

I just don't get how I struggle to go above 32 × 16 in gearing on flat ground - it's almost as hard as 22 × 26 uphill.
>>
File: elmo-shrug.gif (205 KB, 200x114)
205 KB
205 KB GIF
The v-brake brass bushing got stuck on the brake post stud.
same problem with this guy:
>(bikearlingtonforum.com/showthread.php?4700-Cantilever-Bosses)
but the thread has no reply ;_;

I also found another dude with the same problem:
>(bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23825/how-to-remove-cantilever-brake-arm)
but he deformed the brake post stud in his effort to remove the stuck brass bushing

My brake post stud is welded on, so I can't just wrench out the stud with the stuck bushing on it to fix the issue. Anyhow, I managed to jerryrig the brake to work, but I'm just annoyed that I can't replace my rear v-brake with a new set.
>>
File: sc-1402699021.jpg (111 KB, 1800x1800)
111 KB
111 KB JPG
>>1797474
the only way to reduce rolling resistance is the tyres, i guess you're running 26" right now so a good start is to find the narrowest tyres for your wheel size and go as slick as possible. for example the schwalbe One 26x1.00" are as narrow as you can go with 26" tyres
>>
>>1797459
getting a nicer bike really would make a big difference, you can get up to 40 km/h easily. check your saddle height, it should be around 0.883 times your pubic bone height from the bottom bracket or around 1.07-1.09 from the bottom of the pedal stroke to the top of the saddle. get a track pump, the hand pumps are only meant for roadside repairs.
>>
>>1797459
to go faster, you need to be more fit and more aero. you don't need a fancy carbon bike, but something with drop handlebars would certainly help.

>>1797483
slick, sure. narrow, no. there is no benefit to putting a narrower tire on. however, you could potentially gain some watts by putting on nicer (high tpi) tires.
>>
File: 20211201_211939.png (275 KB, 442x565)
275 KB
275 KB PNG
>>1797496
>there is no benefit to putting a narrower tire on
less material=less friction=less resistance wtf are you talking about
>>
>>1797474
Don't worry too much about the gearing ratio. Worry about your heart rate and cadence. As your fitness improves so will your gear ratio increase.
>>
Is it worth putting money into my old MTB or should I buy a new bike?
>need to replace front derailer and front shocks
>possibly need to replace front wheel(pretty rusted) and a seat(currently fixed with tape)
>>
>>1797501
The first equation is wrong. Important that the tire rebounds after compression and that it does actually does compress to soften blows.
>>
>>1797504
Depends on the frame. Everything can be replaced except the frame. If you are sentimental or have a frame that is just perfect for you I would upgrade the old bike. Otherwise get new stuff.
>>
>>1797506
you are out of your mind dude
>>
>>1797501
you can compensate with a different pressure
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-comparison

but yeah fat 26 inch tires are a lame cope, heavy and not aero, the rubber compound and casing aren't as nice either
>>
>>1797504
if you like the frame and it's in good condition, sure. a front mech, fork, and saddle are certainly cheaper than any new bike. but you might want to buy something more modern anyway (27.5, disc brakes)
it really depends on your budget and what you want out of the bike.
>>
>>1797501
narrow contact patch means you need to run higher pressures, which means you lose energy when the tire bounces over imperfections in the road, roots etc instead of deforming around it. if you ride on a perfectly smooth surface like a velodrome narrow high pressure tires make sense, but that's not a real world scenario.
>>
>>1797513
that argument is meant to be used to encourage people to move on from 23mm to 25-28mm tires to use on american and britbong roads which are rough due to lack of maintenance or so that rain water will run off more easily. this was largely driven by the need to make older road frames obsolete and sell bikes with a wider tire clearance to boomers and nerds who are too casual to want a pure race bike. high quality 25-28mm tires are fine on the road, they're not comparable to tires used on velodromes. taking it to 32mm and beyond doesn't make sense if you're looking for road performance, at that point you're emphasizing comfort at the expense of speed. pros still use 25-26mm tires a lot.
>>
you also get more volume for the same tire width on on modern 18-21mm internal width rims rather than like 13-15mm internal width older rims
>>
>>1797501
Stop posting this fat fuck who probably hasn't ridden a bike in 20 years.
>>
>>1797504
>>1797459
Lets see the bike. And your pedaling technique sucks, omahybrid dude.

>>1797420
Don't be a fucking cone wrench on the fastest thread of all of /n/. At least answer some of the noob questions if you're going to do that.
>>
>>1797515
rough roads are the norm everywhere in the world. and any time you ride offroad you would benefit from wider tires.
>boomers and nerds who are too casual to want a pure race bike
pretty sure it's only nerds who ride race bikes when they don't actually race. passing someone on the MUP doesn't count.
>>
>>1797525
when britbong car reviewers go to italy or whatever they comment on how smooth the roads are
>>
>>1797527
and they're always talking about their shitty B-roads like how they prefer softer suspension on their sports cars etc
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaYGanifXsk
10:14
pay attention to the road noise and how bumpy it is like at 10:50-11:05, you can easily imagine having much smoother roads than this
>>
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-secret-to-Netherlands-smooth-and-pothole-free-roads
>>
>>1797418
Damn OP
I don't come around often, but I'm the other guy with a 1987 512, set up as a fixed gear.
Maybe two weeks ago, I had a ~5mph crash into a parking lot curbed island. Rubbernecking, watching some city workers use a CO2 blaster gun to clean fire hydrants.
Front wheel fine, I'm fine. The fork (esp the steerer tube)? Fucking destroyed. The paint chip & ripple pattern was very similar to yours (including the spots on the frame).
>>
File: 1651898487326.jpg (98 KB, 1000x983)
98 KB
98 KB JPG
>>1797425

>>1797479
Sometimes the tip of the canti stud gets mushroomed just a little (over tightening the pivot bolt). I've never seen the bushing get stuck though.
If that was my fork, I would put it in a stand & use a 6" or 8" smooth flat file to go through the wall of the bushing. It's a controlled movement (vs using a set of vise grips, or dremel w/ baby cut off wheel), and even if you 'break through' the brass, you're not going to gouge or deform the stud.
I looked at that Stack Exchange answer, and a bearing knife & puller is a good idea, but I've never seen them that small.
>>
>>1797539
Chief, next time add this
?share=1
to the end of the url, so people can view it without Quora nagging them to sign up.

https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-secret-to-Netherlands-smooth-and-pothole-free-roads?share=1
>>
>>1797570
i think it works without signing in if you copy and paste the link instead of clicking on it. but good tip.
>>
>>1797418
Don't the marks on the top and down tubes, beside the stearing tube, tell you the frame is fucked?
>>
>>1797582
those are lugs anon
>>
File: file.png (282 KB, 657x255)
282 KB
282 KB PNG
>>1797583
these bits
>>
>>1797584
i've seen worse, not worth it for a poorfag to toss the frame
>>
>>1797523
Fuck off tranny I’ve answered lots of questions
>>
>>1797432
Just my singular experience, but I didn't like mine. The pad clearance was pretty tight and they felt way spongier than my cantis. Good power though. And I'm definitely biased and prefer a really solid on/off feel rather than a mushier brake with good modulation.
>>
>>1797474
try 38x18 ez comfie 30 km/h
>>1797459
depends on how smooth the surface is
chipseal is not good to ride on with a light weight aggro bike with pizza cutter tires, it's best to say on asphalt or concrete
>>
File: IMG20220508101322.jpg (3.32 MB, 3000x4000)
3.32 MB
3.32 MB JPG
Why do my valves keep angling outwards like this?
>>
how to lose weight through cycling??
>>
>>1797731
Burn more calories than you consume. Note this advice also works for running, swimming, handstands and even homeostasis.
>>
>>1797731
have fun cycling
feel good about yourself
use that mental boost to eat less, eating being a coping mechanism for feeling bad
>>
>>1797748
Masterfully said.
>>
>>1797698
maybe you're twisting the tube when you install it, try doing it from the other side and see if the valve angles the other way
or maybe it has something to do with the fact that you're running steel rims, what the hell my man
>>
I have a Dutch bike with a Shimano nexus 8 gearingsystem, I was going a bit fast with my son on the front seat on 6th gear, he was playing around and shifted all the way down to 1st. Then I tried increasing the gear and nothing happened, so I had to ride on first gear all the way back home.

Anyone has any idea of what might have happened? Is this normal? I'm not very familiar with hub systems.
>>
>>1797772
Check the basics friend. Does the shifter moving equate to the cable moving at the hub?
>>
File: 20220508_143250_1.gif (2.06 MB, 654x368)
2.06 MB
2.06 MB GIF
>>1797773
On the shifter it works
>>
File: file.jpg (960 KB, 2099x1574)
960 KB
960 KB JPG
>>1797772
However I can't see where it goes to the hub because the cable goes inside the frame
>>
planning to get 105 rim brakes, thoughts? never used rim brakes before
>>
>>1797778
I’m not real familiar with those hubs but I think they must have an arm coming off the rear wheel hub that is moved by a cable. Does that move when you pull the shifter?
>>
>>1797772
Tell the little shit to not fuck your shit up
>>
>>1797431
i tried with another quick link, the odd sound is still there but weakened. The new quick link is the same batch of the older so perhaps the quality isnt there i get them from Decathlon, next im gonna try with another chain with no quick link so at the very least i can write off a thing. I feel like this might be it cause im pretty sure i feel this odd snap coming from the chain.
>>
Cheap but bombproof mtb flat pedals?
>>
>>1797698
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96_2dAQvxvI
>>
Amateur rider interested in commuting to work here. I used to ride my old bike around campus but it sat around for a long time. Now it won't turn left, and the gear shift is messed up, randomly skips between gears and back while I pedal. Is it worth fixing, or are problems this widespread not worth it? It was a hand-me-down from my father so I don't know too much about the bike itself. Sorry for my ignorance.
>>
>>1797787
>>1797778
At your rear wheel look at the drive side underneath the axle. You will see a yellow dot on the outside and one moving around behind some plastic glass. If you move the shifter the one behind the plastic should move.
>>
File: PXL_20201116_191423780.jpg (2.3 MB, 3928x2250)
2.3 MB
2.3 MB JPG
>>1797543
Damn sorry to hear it bro. I was pretty chaffed when my crash happened, I really really liked the bike.

But I put a new chrome fork on and while she's not the same, I'm still riding around town with it. Boomers at the bike shop all agreed they would never sell a bike with that kind of frame damage, but they would probably ride it lol. I'm probably pushing my luck but its been a full year of riding and I'm fine.

Maybe the fact that the fork bent so much is telling of it's compliance, probably why it was so nice to ride.
>>
File: 1650676643788.jpg (34 KB, 235x235)
34 KB
34 KB JPG
>>1797582
>>1797583
>>1797584
>>1797587

Yes any sane person would probably toss the bike, But I found a fork for $40 so I wanted to see if I could suck some extra life out of the bike. Right now she gets me around town as a beater (>>1797826), 6 speed downtube shifters are fucking reliable I have not cleaned the bike in a full year. And I live in upstate NY where winter is WINTER.

>>1797824
Post a pic of the bike. But those two issues are easily fixable with grease and a deep cleaning of the bike. You need to

>disassemble the headtube and degrease the bearings
>Buy a new chain
>clean the rear and front derailleurs
>Probably clean the shifters.

If all that sounds like nonsense, you need to check out sheldonbrown.com and learn about the parts of your bike, what they do, and how to fix them. I don't know how bad your bike issues are, but at a glance they're normal issues that all can be fixed in an evening for a somewhat competent mechanic. It might be a week-long project for you as you learn. But I encourage you to try, bicycles are simple machines and fun to work on.
>>
is it worth spending 50+ on bike lights rather than just getting a set of chinese ones off of amazon? i mostly city ride but might get into some touring this summer where battery life would be a concern.
>>
>>1797853
yes
not just because of battery life but overall build quality, the mounts are the first thing to fail on any light regardless of the system it uses, and then you can't get a spare unless you 3D print it yourself or something
>>
>bike is squeaky
>finally go buy grease instead of oil and redo everything
should have done this sooner, damn its quiet now
>>
so how long does it take you to build a bike, hours wise? i have three (main?) projects but good lord its been one thing after another and ive been rebuilding them all in free time over literally three weeks its driving me mad.
>>
>>1797896
depends on if you have all the parts and tools and how obsessive you are. could be as quick as a couple of hours if you know what you're doing. but then there are non-mandatory things you could be doing such as polishing your frame and fork to get rid of preinstalled scratches and haze in the clear coat which is a ludicrous amount of work. you might think that your frame is immaculate because lighter colors and metallic finishes hide fine scratches very well, but they're there. but maybe you just don't care, a lot of the neckbeards on here are riding old beaters on which you don't care if the paint is flaking off. then there are things like ordering different headset bearings off of aliexpress to tighten up the gaps against the head tube to compensate for the manufacturer's design flaws, the gap isn't visually obvious with the stock dust cover because of the rubber seal but the rubber seal also sits too high so that it's hardly shielding the bearing from water ingress.
>>
>>1797899
and with paint touch ups you have hours of drying time between each coat and there are unexpected things that come up like how they've faced the head tube so that the top surface has bare aluminium exposed which looks like shit so i painted it
>>
>>1797899
i mean (You) specifically.im just curious how much time anons devote to their builds because i feel like a frenetic lunatic scraping around for a t25 at 2200 hours for a bike that ive taken two steps forward and two steps back with build planning, parts making, jumping between bikes. i can usually build a bike frame up 3x all the works minus lacing and suspension in a couple hours at the most but divesting my attention is making me feel like a snail, plus the fabbing parts and trying to figure out how to make shit work that was never meant to do what it is to do is trying my patience. im on the verge of just ordering bulk chinkshit and flipping bikes because making bikes for myself/associates provokes too specific of visions deal with
>>
I have a 3 speed IGH with coaster brake. After not pedaling and just cruising, I have to pedal several crank rotations forward to seemingly catch up before it is ready for me to actually put power down again. A friend said its the coaster brake in the hub that needs adjusting. Does this sound right? I don't even know the term for what I'm trying to describe; its not a loose chain.
>>
>>1797905
sounds like the pawls/ratcheting device inside the IGH have really old grease on them which has hardened and moves really slowly before eventually engaging. if you can open it up and determine which mechanism it is you can target it with penetrating oil until it moves freely and then regrease. if not, look for a port or even the widest gap in the exterior and flush the IGH repeatedly with solvent until it freely ratchets again and then flood it with e.g. motor oil
>>
>>1797698
If it's like that when you first inflate it you fucked up putting it in. If it moves around later you probably have your pressure way too low.
>>
>>1797425
maybe rear derailleur is badly out of alignment and chain keeps trying to climb onto the next bigger gear then falling back down? Is shifting to easier gears snappier than shifting to harder ones?
>>1797784
>noooooooooooo you have to use disc brakes!
>>1797809
Anything from a known brand that costs more than say $40 should survive anything a pedal could be expected to survive.
>>1797824
>won't turn left
wtf? Is there a cable stopping it or is the fork actually not able to turn in the frame? If the latter the headset needs work. Relatively easy to overhaul but if you're a nub probably take it to a shop.
>the gear shift is messed up, randomly skips between gears and back while I pedal
Best case just needs some adjustment. Worst case everything is worn out and needs to be replaced. Try out the steps in this vid and see if it helps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY
>>1797878
You didn't put literal grease on the chain did you...?
>>1797896
A hundred small simple steps + being an OCD perfectionist = a week getting it rideable plus months more fiddling with shit.
>>
>>1797923
I guess I explained it bad, this is actually a newer IGH (though cheap\POS), the coaster brake engages fully and will lock up the wheel as expected. I'm wondering why I have to spin the crank 3 times until the chain is ready to make power again (stop free spinning). My friends explanation was that I need to tighten up the coaster brake so it engages sooner. He says I need to take the chain off, then turn this one lock nut, while turning this other piece that will tighten the amount of play allowed (not the same as tightening a normal chain for play).
>>
>>1797896
months.
do you have a rideable bike? That's the key .

You don't only want projects
>>
File: freewheel_diagram.jpg (52 KB, 640x426)
52 KB
52 KB JPG
>>1797923
Speaking of the ratcheting mechanism in freewheels: I was wondering the other day if wear on the internal pawls/teeth is a thing that happens to bicycles that coast a lot.
Like, if we theoretically consider a situation where someone almost always coasts without pedaling like, let's say, an e-bike/motorized bicycle or someone who takes their bike on the bus to the top of a long descent and only uses it to coast down to work every day or something.
Wouldn't they have to go through freewheels a lot more than normal riders, since the pawls are always smacking into the teeth?
>>
>>1797902
Not him but my personal projects, try to be all my projects, but definately the ones i want to ride, are bikes that i really love. So just spending some time around them is nice. They're nice things. I could just drink a beer and look at them and do nothing.

the frustrating nonsense, problems, and perfectionism, are the most fun parts of working on a bike. You have to appreciate that.

And then just, do the work when you're feeling it. It can take fucking ages. Who cares? The biggest problem is if you start wrenching when you should be riding. Remember. Riding makes you happy. Wrenching lets you ride. Don't become like an audiophile who listens to his stereo rather than his music.
>>
>>1797939
Or not "smacking", I should say "always rubbing against the teeth"
>>
>>1797939
I doubt it. The freewheel is loaded and has a lot of force being applied to it when you're pedalling. That would cause wear.
Also moving the grease around a bit might be good for it.
>>
>>1797930
>You didn't put literal grease on the chain did you...?
no, just pedals, headset. grease would attract to much junk to the chain and cause excessive wearing
>>
>>1797794
Could also be a pedal considering it's rhythmic, and would also cause you to feel it. If you have a spare pair just swap them out, or just try and regrease the pedal bearings if possible.
>>
File: 150016.jpg (3.39 MB, 4160x3120)
3.39 MB
3.39 MB JPG
>>1797939
>>1797942
>wear on the pawls/teeth
It does happen, but even over a long time, the wear from coasting is negligible (just witness marks). This is an old Deore II freehub that I rode for at least a decade. The wear on the freehub body ramps is from when you lay on the power. There was matching wear on the pawl tips, but I don't think I took a picture of them.

I took this apart because I suspected a broken pawl tip. Sometimes the cranks would 'slip' in high torque situations (starting from a dead stop, laying it on at the start of a climb, etc). That is, temporary resistance at the pedals, then suddenly none, the crankarm just drops from 1 to 6 oclock. Pretty jarring sensation.

There's no fixing this kind of wear, replacement is the only option. Shimano freehub bodies are cheap & easy to find though.
>>
>tfw derailleur screws have to adjusted every month
>tfw I have to watch the Park Tools videos to do this every time
>tfw Tourney trash
>>
>>1797998
I know that feel man. Maybe one day we will remember how to set the indexing off the top of our heads and we will become bikepros
>>
>>1797998
righty tighty amirite? lol
>>
>>1798019
limit screw in low gear, then other limit screw in high gear, adjust b-screw on big gear, adjust barrel adjuster to set indexing.
>>
Whats the best place to buy gear/etc online? I need to buy a bew tire and I checked 4 different bike stores in my state and none of them have good tires. Either theyre the size I nees but just plain dog shit rubber or a good tire but not the size I need.
>>
>>1798107
I use performancebike.com and jensonusa.com. Also amazon or ebay are fine as long as you buy from legit sellers.
>>
>>1797939
damm it only hooks at two places?
>>
>>1798107
for tires i've been using biketiresdirect. otherwise nashbar (preferred because i live on east coast) or jensonusa. never ever amazon fuck them
>>
File: Capture.png (491 KB, 833x876)
491 KB
491 KB PNG
>>1798111
>>
Why do no new XC mountain bikes have 3 gears at the front and only a tiny cog? Id like one that i could ride fast without having to spin at 1000 rpm.
>>
>>1798149
Put a smaller rear cog on it then you retard. Do you know how gearing works?
>>
>>1798149
By cog I assume you mean chainring, which is the term for the front gear
Mtb has gone the way of 1x. You can get different sized front chainrings. Or you could get a front shifter, derailleur, and 3x chainring. OR you could buy a used bike.

Though in my mind 2x is pretty much better than 3x in most circumstances, outside of touring with a friction front shifter maybe.
>>
File: smuganimegirl.gif (840 KB, 400x293)
840 KB
840 KB GIF
>>1798128
>the legendary reliability
>DT Swiss
>>
>>1798161
they just had a small hiccup with the initial production of their new ratchet EXP hubs. they've fixed it. cycling enthusiasts love dt swiss hubs, the only downside is the price premium for their higher tier hubs. and maybe some minor nitpicking about weight or spoke bracing angles etc. but they're literally the gold standard for wheel hubs, maybe shimano dura-ace is on the same level if you prefer cup and cone bearings. for example the bitex hubs which have been shilled hard by online wheelbuilders got roasted by hambini for having tiny bearings.
>>
>>1798163
>they've fixed it
You're taking that on faith alone. The reason everyone thought DT Swiss was the "just werx" of hubs was because they had a design that just werked and they had no reason to fuck with it, so cumulatively millions of miles of evidence accumulated that they really were reliable.

Now, only because their patent expired, they fucked with the thing that made them good in the first place, and nobody except cultists will trust them again for 5-10 years until they're proven. Hence why you hear so much more i9 and CK on the fred roads lately. If you care enough about wheels to care about the hubs, you know who to avoid.
>>
>>1797976
I wonder if the the metal being pushed inward and up the tooth to the edge (during forceful engagement) offsets the metal slowly being worn away at the edge?
>>
ever since i got a road bike i countersteer everything even countersteered a car
>>
>>1798154
There is a limit to how small the rear cog can be, and most of these rear cogs have very small rear cogs
>>1798156
Is there a big advantage of 1x? does it save a ton of weight or is it cheaper?
>>
>>1798154
>>1798223
*bikes have very small rear cogs
>>
>>1798149
they have more gears in the back and a wider range so it works fine
>>
>>1798234
do they have a good high gear though?
>>
File: pidcock2.jpg (222 KB, 1400x933)
222 KB
222 KB JPG
>>1798235
yes
but be wary, the heaviest gear on a 1x drivetrain will be a 9t or so cog, which will wear out really fast especially if you're only riding fast on flat
you could always just get a bigger chainring if you don't plan on doing any hardcore climbing
>>
>>1798238
>20 spoke mtb wheels
lel and some anons on here say you need like 32 spokes even on road/gravel bikes with modern rims like for heavier riders
>>
>>1798244
I'm sure those are his only set of wheels, and if something broke he would personally fix it.
>>
>>1798244
you do
>>
>>1797809
Nukeproof - This anon >>1797826 seems to have them. They're plastic, but it's hard plastic, and I've never had any trouble with them.

Anything more durable won't be cheap - it'll be some kind of milled aluminium.
>>
>>1798255
Only if you buy your wheels on aliexpress. Most major brand 18/24-ish spoke wheelsets have weight limits north of 250 or even no limit at all. Might need a touchup with a spoke wrench a little more often but for the most part it'll be fine as long as you don't ride like a retard.

>pic
rider weight isn't the problem here...
>>
>>1797826
>Maybe the fact that the fork bent so much is telling of it's compliance, probably why it was so nice to ride.
yes that's correct
nice steel framesets fold up
>>
>>1798223
So use a bigger front cog.
>>
>>1797425
if it sounds like kuh kuh it's your seatpost. crazy but grease that bitch and tell us
>>
>>1797428
seatpost loose, tighten to appropriate tightness.
>>1797433
>popping came out only when im riding the bike
so clearly seatpost.
>>1797504
>Is it worth putting money into my old MTB or should I buy a new bike?
Slap a "suspension adjusted" steel or aluminum fork on there. see if you like it. if not, flip bike.
>>1797731
ride 90 minutes a day 4 times a week and watch your weight. longer rides are actually counterproductive to weight loss (you will get fitter of course)
>>1797772
go to lbs to fix eine cable
>>1797809
nothing molded plastic if you want bombproof. All pin flats are esssentially the same unless you have big feet. I ride the ISSI stomp xl.
>>1797853
I ended up having to spend $30 for a decent chinese one which was less than the $50 for the bontrager one. My chinky one has a flash time of about 12 hours or more. Battery life on rear lights not really an issue.

For a front headlight I'd probably get a well loved non-chink model because the more expensive ones are set up like headlights and more efficiently use the lumens. Back light just a flasher tho.
>>
>>1797809
>bombproof
if you're not going off drops and getting air then bombproof has a completely different meaning. If that's the case your pedal body will never break and it's all about bearing quality.

so this is a retardedly nonspecific question.
>>
File: 1621621719709.png (154 KB, 512x378)
154 KB
154 KB PNG
>>1798290
>exploding at the first sign of abuse is a sign of quality, akshually
>>
>>1798161
hehehe good one.
>>
File: tiredpp.jpg (84 KB, 904x864)
84 KB
84 KB JPG
>>1798330
>exploding
Bent.
That's what happens with thin-tubed road frames. If you want robust, like a 90s mtb frame, it's going to be heavy.
>>
>>1798289
yeah with quality materials and proper tensioning and stress relieving i wouldn't be worried about them ever breaking, it's just a matter of stiffness depending on spoke thickness and maybe needing to be trued again at some point but not on a regular basis
>>
One of these bolts came out and I have no idea how tight I should do them.

Too tight and it catches the gear chain. Any advice?
>>
>>1798384
ya those are the limit screws. if you set them up incorrectly, shifting will be poor and it's likely you will drop your chain. my advice is to watch a youtube video on how to adjust them
>>
>>1798384
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
see 4: limit screw setting
>>
>>1798255
If you ride on a flat tire at 25 mph over rocks like he did you're going to kill any wheel.
>>
Should i change my chains myself or should i just take it to a shop? Really cant continue cycling with these chains anymore so. If i change them myselves what do i need to buy? some random videos says i need chain cutter but i dont see why i cant use something random
>>
>>1798408
I've tried to use something random myself and it sucks. Just give $5 and buy a chain cutter
>>
>>1798408
>Really cant continue cycling with these chains anymore so.
is it skipping?
probably youre entire drivetrain is fucked then and if you just try to change the chain a new chain will skip even worse
>>
>>1798408
you'll still need a proper chain braker to trim your new chain to length
it's piss easy, just look up some videos and check the links in the OP
>>
>>1798412
no skipping they just fall of all the time
>>
>>1798414
problem ain't the chain m8
>>
>>1798421
ok so what is it then
>>
>>1798434
Derailleur adjustment. Look at Park Tool Repair Blog.
>>
how good are full sized fenders? i mean the ones what go right down the wheel almost to the ground? will they keep me dry in a rain storm?
>>
>>1798486
>>1798434
Or a bend hanger, or if you are riding single speed your chain tension or the length of your chain, hell it could even be a bend chainring. This clown can't possibly tell you what your problem is without seeing a single pic of the drivetrain or at least get some more info on the bike. Could you post a picture so we can give you decent advice?
>>
Is modern low mid range 1x10 better than a decade old entry level 3x7?
>>
>>1798164
cope
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwvyT57v9XY
>>
>>1798507
As any fender they will only keep you safe from water trown up from the wheel spinning.
But yes, they reduce that splash a lot. Mostly its polite for someone riding behind you as you reduce the height of your water splash.
>>
File: Hnet.com-image (1).jpg (740 KB, 1100x825)
740 KB
740 KB JPG
>>1798511
Not really sure which parts im supposed to photograph but here, if you need specific pictures please elaborate
>>
>>1798555
that's just too loose
you have to loosen the rear wheel bolts and jam it back so that the chain is tight (but not too tight), then tighten back the bolts, while making sure the wheel sits straight on the frame
>>
File: 1652032195738.jpg (293 KB, 1456x1092)
293 KB
293 KB JPG
What low budget changes can I make to save some weight, roll smother and overall improve it?
I want to do longer rides and maybe tour on it.
>>
>>1798560
get a better saddle
>>
>>1798560
good slick tires (panaracers)
good platform pedals (fookers)
a stem that's not pointing to the moon
>>
>>1798560
Best thing you can first do adjust your fit as best you can, it's possible to optimize bike fit for comfort, power, and efficiency.
>>
>>1798560
service your bearings
>>
>>1798566
>a stem that's not pointing to the moon
But its so comfy.

>>1798562
It isn't too bad.

>>1798575
All of them?

>>1798568
Yeah I'm working on my legs, not just fixing the bike.
>>
>>1798577
your saddle sucks, you should adjust your saddle position too. your bars are too high, the comfort will be fine with a lower stem for fuck's sake, your core will get stornger, fucking deluded boomer.
>>
>>1798577
>But its so comfy.
it's more comfy to properly distribute your weight between your ass, legs and arms. the way your bike is currently set up right now most of your weight is going on your ass. If you plan on going on a long ride, it'll be really painful.
>>
>>1798580
you're a big guy
>>
>>1798577
It really is. You need a cutout for your taint and one with a better area for your sitbones to go. Long ride with that thing will make you feel awful.
>>
>>1798582
let it go anon it's been 10 fucking years
>>
>>1798264
>>1797809
Those are foolera, Chinese rip offs of chesters.

Certainly not bombproof but excellent for road riding
>>
>>1798384
watch the park tool video. Setting your limit screws is awesome to learn and satisying. It'll fix your chain rub and optimize shifting.

They never used to tell people about limit screws at bike shops because I think they make a lot of money doing a 'tune up" which is basically check the limit screws, make sure it shifts great, grease the hubs, tighten seatpost and seat and denude customer of $100.
>>
>>1798414
>>1798421

excessive chain drop is def a sign of extreme chain wear. but it can also be this>>1798486

Buy a chin stretch measurement tool. Or go into a bike shop and ask them to measure it for you.

+.75%= change the chain
+.1% = after you change the chain you may have to also change the rear casette due to the excessively stretched chain making rear cassette skip.

When normally maintaining bike, switch chain out at .75% religiously your cassette will last a long time. 95% of that damage comes when you are riding on a stretched chain.

Since you have literally no equipment the best thing to do is call around to LBS and ask "how much to purchase and install a new chain" then just go and have them do it.

Then next time, 1000-3000 miles from now later you will have purchased 1) a chain stretch tool 2) a chain breaker tool so you can remove your chain and reatach yourself.

My bike only charges me $10 over the cost of the chain and they get their shimano chains cheap from pull-off freds so in the end I end up paying $5 more than just getting the chain online.

Personally I don't find it is useful but I have the chain checker so that when it is .75% I go in and have it swapped out while I shoot the shit and look at bottles.
>>
>>1798615
1% not .1%
>>
>>1798615
>Personally I don't find it is useful but I have the chain checker so that when it is .75% I go in and have it swapped out while I shoot the shit and look at bottles.
dude. you ARE fred.
>>1798594
hes right you know
>>1798560
repack/grease bearings as said, new lubricated cabling, really the cost only goes up from there....
>>
>>1798615
>Since you have literally no equipment
>anon doesn't know you can measure chain wear with a standard ruler
>>
>>1798517
Is modern low-mid range anything better than decade old low range anything? Yeah probably.
Does that mean you should stop using decade old 3x7 just because newer stuff is better? No, if it works keep using it.
As for 1x10 vs 3x7 that's really preference, some people like 1x because they don't like having to use a front derailleur, but in my opinion 2x or even 3x is better in most situations. The one big advantage of 1x is that on some full suspension mountain bikes, it can be difficult to install and adjust a front derailleur because the shock gets in the way.
>>
Is there a minimum tire width in UCI-sanctioned cyclocross races? (I know there is a maximum)
Is there a minimum and/or maximum width in UCI-sanctioned road races?
>>
>>1798646
I don't believe so. I can't find anything in the regulations.
Also, out of pure curiosity, I've previously confirmed with the UCI that the 6.8kg minimum bike weight limit does not apply to mountain bikes.
>>
>>1798657
Does that mean the UCI would let me a ride 6kg road bike in a mountain bike race? Technically speaking, would a 6kg road bike with 19mm slicks at 150psi be allowed in a downhill mtb race? If so I kind of want to do it just to troll people.
>>
>>1798659
You’re not a good enough cyclist to finish a UCI DH race on a road bike little fella
>>
>>1798660
I said 'ride' I didn't say 'finish' big fella
>>
>>1798659
I mean, maybe? I'm sure nobody would ever do such a thing since their team/sponsors would all be pissed for wasting a race.
>>
>>1797418
My chain just failed the .75 chain wear guide at about 700km... is that good mileage on an 11 speed chain?
>>
File: PXL_20220511_061011497.jpg (2.09 MB, 3024x4032)
2.09 MB
2.09 MB JPG
Bike shop replaced a link on my chain, but not picrel happens because it's too tight and doesn't rotate as well as the others. Wat do
>>
>>1798680
blast it with piss
>>
>>1798680
Spray paint it
>>
>>1798682
Maybe I will -_-
>>
File: IMAG1329.jpg (3.01 MB, 4032x2016)
3.01 MB
3.01 MB JPG
>>1798680
Maybe the masterlink is not the right speed.
>>
>>1798680
Move it slowly siways with your hands to make it less "pressured", it needs to move a bit more freely. I had the same thing happen when I cleaned a chain once.
>>
>>1798680
Downvoted, clean your bike and get a bike fit
>>
>>1798697
My bike fitter comes every Thursday so I can ride Friday afternoon, calm down
>>
File: citizen watch.jpg (63 KB, 1037x873)
63 KB
63 KB JPG
>>1797584
>>1797587
>toss the frame
>>1797583

what am I looking at, are those paint chips supposed to be signs of internal cracking?
>>
>>1798579
There's no need to become aggressive, recommend me a decent stem then?

>>1798580
>>1798593
Gotcha, what saddle to look into?
>>
File: 1642976667574.jpg (16 KB, 400x400)
16 KB
16 KB JPG
>>1798680
Why can you see through the link two above the master link?
>>
>>1798710
ignore the angry retard. not the other guy, but you want a saddle that is firm with a thin padding layer. taint cutout is a cope for retards that can't into proper saddle angle. look at wtb, bontrager, terry, fabric saddles. see if your bike shop will measure your sitbone width, that will save you time and money in trial and error fitting.
>>
>>1798717
>see if your bike shop will measure your sitbone width, that will save you time and money in trial and
Lewd
But thanks fot the recommendation fren
>>
>>1798718
>>1798717
Don't ask strangers to measure your ass for you ffs. Get two pencil erasers (the rectangle kind) and put them on a chair with tape so they don't slide. Move them around until you can sit on them with your ass bones perfectly centered on top of them. Measure the distance between them center-to-center and add 20mm, then get something about that size.

If you're full-anorexia mode you might be able to do the thing where you put aluminum foil on a padded chair, then sit on it and measure the distance between the imprints your ass bones make.
>>
I could not find a battery operated front light for my Tilt bike, but I did find one that's meant to be connected to a dynamo or an ebike battery. I pried it open and found that the plastic has space for batteries. I want to try and DIY this thing to be powered by 2 AAA batteries. What voltage does the light likely take? Is there a standard?Why are there four wires?
>>
>>1798735
Found a video of the ebike this part is for: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYD4Sr5E4fs
Its battery is 24 volts. The big resistor on the PCB is 24 ohms. Iirc, LEDs have basically zero resistance themselves, so if connected directly to the battery, the circuit would pass through 1 ampere and draw 24 watts. That sounds way too much.
>>
>>1798707
it shows the impact was enough to bend the top and down tube , and means it may be weakened and/or out of alignment (stearing tube), I think
>>
why is using both brakes to stop a bad thing? give me the full autistic rundown
>>
>>1798735
the battery itself is 24 volts but it has a lighting port wich only gives 5 volt
>>
I wanna upgrade my triban with a double chainring but how do I know what bottom bracket I need?
>>
>>1798820
SM-BBR60
>>
>>1798820
I assume you are replacing your crankarms as well, such that you are not concerned with spindle interface, only with frame compatibility?
If your bottom bracket is threaded, it is probably either 68mm or 73mm, measure your frame's bottom bracket shell. Then you just have to look or any 68mm or any 73mm threaded bottom bracket (make sure it is compatible with your cankset if you are buying the crankset and bb separately, of course).
With that said, there are rarely other things to watch out for, especially the weird Italian and French bikes that have right hand threading on both sides (whereas pretty much all other bikes with threaded bb has left hand threading on the right side) Sheldon Brown has good pages on threaded bottom brackets if you want to learn more.
If your bottom bracket is threadless, then either read the Park Tool article or wait for someone who knows more about them than myself to post.
>>
>>1797459
slicks at high pressure (as high as tire allows), tightly spoked wheels, correct ass to pedal bottom dead center distance (you should be able to just about lock your knee if you try), good wheel bearings, good bottom bracket. dutchman's top speed is generally limited by spinning out, not by pedalling becoming hard.
>>
>>1798829
>correct ass to pedal bottom dead center distance (you should be able to just about lock your knee if you try),
I believe 30 degree bend at lowest point in pedal rotation is what I have heard. If you can almost lock, that sounds slightly too high.
But other than that I agree with you, fuck the freds and industry shills crying for wide low pressure tires.
>>
>>1797459
Assuming you have no mechanical problems with the bike, get in good shape. Eat a healthy vegan diet and work out regularly.
As for your bike, make sure your bearings are in good shape (do cranks spin smoothly as they should, or rough? pedals? wheels?), and make sure your brakes are not rubbing. And learn to use your shifters and always be in a good gear ratio (high gear ratio for downhill and tailwind, low for uphill and headwind) if you are not already in the habit of doing that.
>>
>>1798808
using both brakes is fine, only on fixies is it acceptable to have a single brake. sheldon brown's opinions should be taken with a grain of salt, the main thing is that you should learn to use the front brake so that you don't rely only on the rear brake.
>>
>use half clips
>now foot is much back on pedal than it used to be
does it mean now i'll develop that over muscular double calf
>>
Why are Surly bikes and framesets almost always out of stock on QBP? Does QBP just not normally keep stock at their warehouse, and instead just send everything off to shops to have on their sales floor? If I want to buy a frameset rather than a complete bike, how the fuck do I do this since QBP is almost always at 0 stock?
>>
>>1797418
is it immoral to take out a pedal from an old beat down bicycle?
>>
>>1798710
>saddle
step one raise saddle as high as you can without locking your knees when you pedal. it will seem weird at first. but at least make it higher than lower.

step two figure out sitbone width. first determine hip tilt according to how you ride -- pic related 1 of 3
>>
>>1798875
use hip tilt to determine additional saddle width
>>
>>1798876
measure your sitbone width and add everything up. you can do the eraser thing anon mentioned. I used corregated cardboard and rocked front and back on a flat surface (stairs are good)

also, buy some slick tires, you're last post you said you were already doing a lot of miles, it will shock you how much better they are on roads compared to those knobbies
>>
>>1798710
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FFwVdVLaSM
>>
>>1798808
Front has more stopping power than the rear, can't remember why exactly. There's nothing "bad" about using the rear, it's just not as effective. For emergency stops using both is best.
>>
>>1798829
>>1798832
correct saddle height is "as high as possible before it starts to feel weird". If you can't tell when it's 'weird' stick to some online rule of thumb or something.
>>1798839
>clips
cringe
>>1798846
blame chinks
>>1798857
it's only immoral if you use old shitty parts on a new good frame that deserves better
>>
>>1798808
when you slam on both breaks, your weight transfers forward, and the rear wheel unweights. That means if the rear brake is on, it's not slowing you down, but it will lock up and skid, which means you have less control while breaking.

Anyone who doesn't understand this has either never emergency braked, or doesn't have brakes that are strong enough.
>>
>>1798810
Stop shilling your shit website
>>
>>1798808
Nerds who post about riding think that every time they pull the brakes they’re executing a perfect stop with notice on perfect surface conditions at their best ever performance. If you ever rode motorcycles, it’s the same people who say never use the clutch for up or downshifts because you should be able to perfectly rev match in the space between gears on your commute in traffic.
>>
>>1798930
It's not a dogmatic position, it's a series of ideas to take account of. It doesn't apply to everything, it applies to a specific circumstance, but it begs thinking about and practicing.

A lot of people do lock up their wheel or go OTB when they get cut infront of by a car at speed. There are a number of things worth learning and practicing including how to bunny hop over an unexpected pothole for when riding in dense traffic.

If you ever rode motorcycles, it's the same as people who say they can just ride and don't put any effort into learning to ride defensively or understand any of how things actually work.
>>
>>1798930
its relevent to people who ride bikes fast on the road

have you really never done a skid or an endo?
>>
I want a front basket on my 90s mtb, I know everyone gets a wald 137 but what else do I need and where do I buy it. I have the eyelets on my fork
>>
>>1798938
It'll be far more stable for heavier loads if you put it on a rack.
most racks, rear racks even, can be adapted to fit on the front.
The best option is finding a better used rack for cheap/free and adapting that.

If you want to buy something you have 3 tiers
a mini rack that fits on your brake studs like a nitto m12 (there are cheap ones), a lightweight fullish size rack like a soma lucas, or a full size rack like a surly front.
Depending on how sturdy you want it.

It also depends on which eyelets you have. It's better if you have the top ones above the forkend. If you have only the lower fender eyelets, and especially if you have bulky fork blades that protrude past it, consider a rack that is designed to mount below like a blackburn outpost.
>>
>>1798924
that doesn't mean it's better to only use the front brake. if you apply too much front brake you'll go over the bars or slide out if it's slippery or in a turn. likewise, of course you modulate the rear brake to avoid skidding. using both brakes in moderation is fine.
>>
>>1798674
no
>>
>>1798930
this. the sheldon brown article is unfortunate in how it's worded and how it promotes a cult-like obsession with overemphasizing using the front brake. it's really only useful advice for some of the absolute beginners/casuals who might overuse the rear brake.
>>
>>1798947
>using both brakes in moderation is fine.
yes and the amount to be using the rear brake in the emergency stop explained very quickly becomes none

>>1798949
you have to understand that sheldon's article is reactionary. He's pushing back against the prevailing US idea that a: the front brake is dangerous because it'll send you over the bars
and b: the rear brake is the main brake, is more effective, seeing as it's on the right side
>>
>>1798949
under emergency braking, what are your experiences skidding, or doing an endo?
>>
>>1798947
>that doesn't mean it's better to only use the front brake.
It doesn't mean it's always better to only use the front brake.

It means there is a specific, and important, situation not to use the rear brake (at maximum braking in an emergency stop, at speed, on the road).
Just like there is a specific, and important, situation not to use the front brake (turning on wet/loose surfaces).
>>
>>1798903
the frame is not new, ive bought an used bike so i guess it's fine
>>
>>1798955
If you’re retarded and have your weight way too high and forward, yeah you’ll do an endo braking, but with proper positioning, you actually get double the tractive surface to brake by using both brakes. Front tire washout has basically replaced OTB for years
>>
>>1798930
you can shift without clutch??? doesn't that make a horrible sound, on cars at least
>>
>>1798931
>>1798932
Hello nerds who don’t ride as much as they post.
>>
File: 1648482464795.png (418 KB, 500x579)
418 KB
418 KB PNG
>suddenly hear rhythmic chirping noise synced up with my pedaling
>ohfuck.webm
>look down to see if anything's wrong
>can't see shit
>stop pedaling
>still there
>stand up
>still there
>stop completely
>still there
>fucking birds
>>
>>1798961
Motorcycle gearboxes aren’t like cars. It’s possible but, like braking only with the front, worse in real life because you aren’t going to be perfect every single time.
>>
>>1798958
that's a very black and white simplification that might work for your pea brain but it's not a universal truth
>>
>>1798985
jesus christ, will you asshole shut the hell up?
>>
>>1798986
>weighing this much and posting on /n/
Very cringe
>>
>>1798960
What types of riding do you even do ?
>>
>>1798987
just shut up.
>>
>>1798985
Universal truths are not a universal truth. Everything has caveats and exceptions. You being pedantic doesn't make me wrong. You're implying it's true by arguing it's an over simplification and nitpicking the conditions, rather than saying that it's wholly wrong or addressing the ways in which it's demonstrably right and how that is wrong.
>>
>>1798674
No, if it is wearing out that fast it's probably because your cassette cogs and/or chainrings are worn out and have fucked teeth. No other reason chain should stretch that fast. Or you used the chain checker tool wrong
>>
>>1798990
holy shit shut up. you two are the reason /bqg/ sucks
>>
>>1798997
both me
>>
>>1798998
Wrong
>>
>>1798810
Chain didn't break, I just lost one of the rollers. I have a 9-gear cassette, I think I might have told the guy I had a 10 though :/
He did it for free anyways so I can't be upset
>>
>>1798949
I use the rear brake because my front squeals too much
>>
>>1799002
>>1798987
Please read the thread and don’t make spam posts
>>
File: 1649324556612.png (1.31 MB, 974x1106)
1.31 MB
1.31 MB PNG
The right crank on my bike felt "loose" whilst riding so I noticed the hub cap had unscrewed itself a bit so I tightened it by hand and that solved the issue.

Problem is, this somehow cause the inner chain ring to rub against the bike frame. How could my action with the hub cap have caused this nissue? Both chain rings are absolutely not bent at at all.
>>
>>1798948
>>1798674
i just clock another 80km and it failed the 1%.
all the parts are brand new so definitely got scammed with fake kmc chain. cheers lads
>>
>>1799030
>ride crank while loose
>damage interior surface of crank
>tighten.jpg
>crank now climbs the spindle due being damaged
>crank sits too close to frame, causes rub
>>
>>1799047
this is correct
>>1799030
The crank will probably never stay tight again and needs to be replaced.
You -might- get away with re-installing it on a bottom bracket with a wider spindle.

Some tips about installing square taper cranks.
Thoroughly clean all the surfaces, and very lightly grease the spindle and bolt threads.
Do not use a grease with teflon.
Install once 'very tight', ie, as tight as you can go with a 3/8" wrench of an L allen key.
Then snug the bolt, not hard at all, just snug it, after every ride for a while. The bolt doesn't loosen, what happens is the crank moves slightly further up the taper, and you want to just move the bolt back up to it, not press it on further, to ensure that it cannot walk back down and ride around loose and get damaged.
>>
>>1799056
Wrong
>>
>>1799030
this is the number 1 reason I ditched square taper for hollowtech II
every time you remove/install them you're whittling some material off
>>
>>1799058
wrong how ?
>>
What would be a good trail bike for a 5'9" woman?

Gf wants to get into bikes with me but I don't know enough about women's bikes.
>>
>>1799062
>women's bikes
they sometimes have slightly shorter reach and are painted blue or purple and come in smaller sizes
shes not a womanlet she does not need a 'womens' bike. Like there's no reason not to get one if that's the one but the difference is practically nothing.

'good trail bike' is meaningless
'trail' can mean a bunch of different things
whats the budget
>>
>>1799062
>Gf wants to get into bikes with me
ooh boy...
>>
>>1799056
So if I remove everything what kind of damage am I looking for? It currently has no play , just that it's hitting hitting the frame.

Also if not teflon grease, what kind instead? Why not teflon? (for education sake)

>>1799059
Has this happened to you too and if so what do you recommend I do? How do I stay away from this like you did?
>>
>>1799070
He changed to a meme bottom bracket standard that eats bearings twice a year and creaks all the time
>>
>>1799074
I've been using the same BB-RS500 for several years now, rainy and dusty conditions, zero creaking, still rolling smooth
fuck your disinfo
>>
>>1799074
fuck off with your dirtbag cope
just get a decent quality modern frame and install the bottom bracket correctly
get an aftermarket bb like from wheels mfg for bonus overkill reliability
>>
>>1799075
>>1799078
BB on your bike stands for ballbag. You ballbag. Square taper for life
>>
File: 1633482262954.png (1019 KB, 1024x768)
1019 KB
1019 KB PNG
I was asked an old mechanic once - 'what are some good signs of a high quality frame?' One thing he mentioned was the frame having a braze-on hanger for the front derailleur. The logic being - if that hanger has lasted on the frame for 20-30+ years without cracking or other damage, then it's a good sign that the frame is high quality.

The logic checks out, but I wonder if anybody here knows whether this is actually substantiated or just his personal opinion?

I have always been curious about it.
>>
>>1799086
his reasoning is nonsense but braze on hangers are exclusively found on nice road frames so hes right
>>
>>1799086
I can’t think of a high end 70s road frame with a braze on but maybe I’m not thinking high enough end
>>
>>1799070
The square hole will have rounded corners.

>what kind instead?
Anything is fine. Any cycle-specific grease without teflon. Marine grease. Auto wheel bearing grease. Lithium, calcium, anything.

>why not teflon
reduces friction too much in press fit parts and fasteners. Be careful too because a lot of bicycle greases do have teflon in them. It's good for packing bearings only.
>>
>>1799093
It's more of an 80s/90s thing

who the hell rides 70s bikes anyway
>>
>>1799092
Thanks anon, I have wondered about that every single time I've looked at the bike he sold me and thought "did this fucker scam me"

turns out he's alright
>>
File: 1640335564117.png (2.46 MB, 1138x1394)
2.46 MB
2.46 MB PNG
I've never noticed these engravings beneath my bike before, anyone know what they mean?
>>
>>1799096
You shut the hell up
>>
>>1799099
serial number which may or may not be random
you might find some boomer autist to tell you more info about your bike for no reason

cable routing is fucked up
see how its dragging
either that thingo has worn through or its positioned wrong or its the wrong size
fine on a friction shifting beater but you could fix that
>>
>>1799064
I think it would only be for riding in the park, forest etc this is in the UK so the weather and terrain are pretty mild.

>>1799065
Yeah I don't want her to buy something shitty and hate it but I also don't want her to spend a load of money

Probably a budget of about £500
>>
>>1799103
WHY IS EVERYTHING ON MY BIKE FUCKED UP. Makes me want to just get a new one but prices are all jacked up.

Would be cool to find out the history of the frame though, so I'll do some digging on the numbers. Will report back if anything interesting.
>>
>>1799105
your gay little braided carrying strap looks like its workin good
>>
>>1799106
lol I put that on years ago and I thought it was the best idea ever. It does do the job though. Wouldn't be able to carry it up through slim stairwells without it bumping into the white walls on either side.
>>
>>1799101
he's right you know
get with the times grandpa
>>
>>1799104
what matters is it fits her and she likes the color

recommending specific models considering bike shortage is kinda retarded. If you actually have real options and want help analysing spec ask then.

also
>90s rigid mtb
>>
>>1799104
trek marlin
>>
>>1799104
>>1799124
wait i didn't read your post
>I think it would only be for riding in the park, forest etc
trek fx or dual sport
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9oazpcN1-g
>>
>>1799125
dual sport 1 doesn't have a lockout fork so go for the 2 if you go this route for more efficiency on the raod

https://www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bikes/hybrid-bikes/dual-sport-bikes/dual-sport/dual-sport-2-womens/p/32890/
>>
anyone here with a kryptonite lock who wanna tell me if the flexframe-u is a good frame mount or not?
>>
I got an old steel 5speed bike with 126mm rear wheel spacing, I want to upgrade to more gears. What's the most gears I could cram in the back and what cassette? Looking for something with the widest range. Ofcourse willing to swap out rear derailleur also. Pic unrelated to draw your attention
>>
>>1799175
Oh yah ofc I will cold set to 130 if I need
>>
I feel like shit, this godamn nose is draiving me crazy. It took all my motivation away and i feel like shit everyday doing my routine with this annoying fucking sound. I did everything to track it down and fix it. I dont want to take the bike to a fucking shop i dont trust them for sure they will try to scam me, i usually a very proficient mecchanic but this time its different somehow i cant do anything i feel helpless the worst thing is not being able to enjoy this very good weather. I cant be happy ever no matter what.
>>
>>1799175
You can probably screw a 7 speed freewheel on the back. Not sure what kind of hub and frame adjustments you'll need to make.

Otherwise you need a new hub entire to move to cassettes. Which is more trouble than it's worth. Just stick on a new freewheel.
>>
File: IMG20220512202916.jpg (2.58 MB, 3000x4000)
2.58 MB
2.58 MB JPG
>>1799185
I know I'd need to swap to a new wheel for a casette. I have this wheel laying around that could work. A lil dirty but the bearing surfaces are great. It's also 130mm. Expensive rim also. Just wondering what kind of casette i could put on it. 9 speed?
>>
>>1799186
Damn dude you worded you question really poorly then lol.

Best way to tell is to find a model number on the hub and look it up. Different brands and different years support different cassettes. But if it's Shimano generally you're good for up to 11 speed. 8spd-11spd cassettes are all the same width, with more gears having skinnier sprockets and skinnier chains.

I can't really tell anything for sure just by looking at that picture, you need a model number or something for a concrete answer. Or take it to a bike shop and see what fits.
>>
>>1799187
Thanks sista
>>
>>1799182
shit mate, if only you could find some great mechanics somewhere who you could just pay to fix it for you!
>>
>>1799202
How much do you think it would cost to get mustache man to fix it for him?
>>
>>1798620
>repack/grease bearings as said, new lubricated cabling, really the cost only goes up from there..
What else? I got the bike for cheap and I like the frame so I may actually put some shekels into it.
I'm considering converting it for a single chainring too.
>>
File: 1633673359905.png (148 KB, 404x236)
148 KB
148 KB PNG
Is there a name for the "dent" in the chainstays on old Cannondales??
>>
>>1799210
Only changes worth making are what you already mentioned and tires. Tires are the single most cost effective change you can make to a bikes ride quality, speed, and overall feel. Next to getting a decent fit on the bike at least

Why the Fuck would you convert it to ss if you want to tour with it?

It sounds like you want to tinker, you should volunteer at a bike shop.
>>
How bad is it to use a tire that is not the same size? I ordered a tire online for a 700c X 37 and they sent me a 700c X 35. With some effort I was able to get the tire on and pump it up and everything. But it is smaller than my front tire, just by a little bit. The tire says 35 but next to it it also says (37) which I don't understand why? I don't know if they sent me the wrong one by accident or something? I made double sure it was the right size online before buying it.
>>
How much difference is there between a 1 gear ratio and a 1.18 one? What kind of steepness is 1 good for?
>>
>>1799225
how about a goddamn picture
in any case it's no big deal
MTBers usually ride with different widths on each tire
>>
>>1799231
The difference is roughly 18%
>>
File: file.png (200 KB, 500x331)
200 KB
200 KB PNG
Is it normally harder to brake when riding on the hoods in a bike with dropbars? shit, i got a bit frightned today, first bike with this kind of handlebar.
>>
>>1799222
>Why the Fuck would you convert it to ss if you want to tour with it?
It would help me to shed some weight on the bike. And yes I want to tour with it, not just want but will be doing so in the summer.
>>
should i cover my pump with plastic bag and strap it to the (garbon) fork semi permanently for emergencies?
>>
>>1799257
strap it with zip ties*
>>
>>1799257
no, strap it behind the seattube instead
>>
>>1799244
yes, you have less leverage than on the drops, but you should still be able to brake properly and even lock both wheels
>>
File: 1628553015924.png (634 KB, 1050x1050)
634 KB
634 KB PNG
>>1799086
That's not a spot on the frame particularly susceptible to cracking. The only time it's under any stress at all is when you're actually doing a shift, and even then barely any. Check literally any other weld on the frame for cracks before that one.
>>1799182
Where it sounds like it's coming from isn't always where it's actually coming from. Clean and lube seatpost and saddle rails, lube and tighten seatpost and saddle clamp bolts, make sure QRs are tight, if spokes are loose they could make noise, if it's synced with your pedaling check that your shoelaces aren't hitting the frame... etc.
>>1799225
no big deal, theoretically you should pump up the smaller one to a slightly higher pressure but the difference would be tiny and not even worth thinking about
>>1799244
Needing to use the drops to get better leverage on the brake levers is cope for having crappy brakes and/or zero hand strength. Two fingers on the lever from the hoods should be plenty to skid if you wanted to. Consider getting better pads.
>>
>>1799044
oh shoot. yeah that's been happening more and more because of the parts shortages. i've seen shops source kmc chains on ebay because they can't get them through their distributors and then they turn out to be fake.
>>
File: kmc.jpg (212 KB, 1451x901)
212 KB
212 KB JPG
>>1799285
yep...
fake kmc is everywhere
prettyy annoying

real kmc is harder to find i buy a lot of sram chains these days. They have the same quicklink system and seem pretty good quality other than that. Sram cassettes are quite good too.

the annoying thing is fake chains aren't even cheaper.
>>
>>1799251
Bro you would shed like a pound or two at most, and lose the ability to change gears. What do you think is more valuable on a bike tour? Do you have any idea what bike touring entails?

You need to go and just ride your bike homie.
>>
>>1799304
I think he means go to 1x not singlespeed

which is still stupid
>>
>>1799282
Wrong
>>
>>1799182
dont worry anon you will figure it out. patience, space, and grace. lots of love
>>1799225
this is a negligible difference and refers to the... rotundity of the tire not the bead seat so its a happy accident perfect setup imho
>>1799234
kek
>>1799291
>fake chains arent even cheaper
such is life in the post industrial
>>
>>1799182
What kind of noise, anon? 2 questions always help me narrow it down a bit. First, is it coinciding with your pedaling cadence? If so, it might be in your pedal, cleat (if using clipless), crank, bottom bracket, or somewhere that may flex with your body movements as you're pedaling, like your saddle, saddle clamp, seatpost, clamp, etc.

Second, does it happen when you stand up? If not, then you can usually rule out the saddle/post/clamp area.
>>
>>1799182
above is right
i'd also try and rule out the bars by getting it to happen no hands.
And 2 other things that often make noise are fd clamps and chainring bolts.
>>
Not a question about a bike itself but what do you do if you get doored?
>>
>>1799346
I think standard procedure is to decelerate rapidly, almost instantly
>>
>>1799346
depends how bad it is. i know a guy who got doored and the upper corner of the door penetrated his skin just under his armpit and i think he broke a bone or two. but i'd say first thing to do is gather yourself and make sure you and your bike are ok. if not, try to get the driver to pay for everything.
>>
>>1799348
>break finger
>collect 100 grand
do you think that's reasonable?

https://www.newyorkbikelawyer.com/bike-crashes/doored-while-cycling-in-n-y-/
>>
>>1799350
god, that's the dream.
>>
File: 1643326900638.jpg (86 KB, 500x504)
86 KB
86 KB JPG
>>1799351
>ghetto lottery, /n/igger edition
>>
>>1799346
>Not a question about a bike itself but what do you do if you get doored?
Same as any time you get hit by a car.

Don't get combative or try to pass it off as fine.
Realize you're in shock. You're not in a state to evaluate anything.
Slow everything down. Sit down.
Make it clear to yourself and them that you're not sure if you're hurt, or if your bike is damaged. Get all their details.

also, you know, don't ride in the door zone, or if you do, slowly, ready to brake, and scanning inside cars.
>>
>>1799363
Things I wished I did when I got hit by a car. I ended up just riding off because I thought I was fine.

Ended up in ER hours later because it turned out I was suffering from a concussion
>>
Is this bike any good for riding in the forest over roots and rocks? I'm not going to be doing any downhill riding

Currently have some 15kg Shimano Tourney hardtail for that purpose and it's just horrible

https://www.canyon.com/en-ee/mountain-bikes/cross-country-bikes/exceed/cf/exceed-cf-6/3127.html
>>
>>1799259
lot of mud splashes there
>>
>>1799182
last year I spent forever trying to fix a click noise that sounded like it came from the front. cleaned the headset and front hub bearings multiple times, then put in new bearings. didn't work. after a long time I noticed the click sometimes happened exactly when I lifted off the seat, so I cleaned the seatpost and that fixed the noise.
>>
>>1799346
gtfo of there before he makes you pay for the door obviously a cagie is going to be some entitled cunt who will make the case about his car being very expensive
>>
>>1799175
>>1799186
Hoshi spokes.
I recently got a nice used set of wheels, old Shimano 600 hubs, and the freehub was 7spd, the kind from uniglide-transition days (lockring threading on the inside & outside). At the base of the splines it had beefy shoulders like that... I think they measured close to 5mm? Later freehubs had a reduced shoulder to fit 8+ cogs.
Anyway, I used that idea on Sheldon Brown's site, "8 of 9 on 7". Bought a $30 Microshift 9spd casette, with a lowest gear I didn't intend on using (28t). Drilled the heads off the rivets, removed that one cog & spacer. Fits fine, works fine.

>>1799221
Most people call it a 'dimple'. Somewhere I have pics of making them w/ an arbor press & smooth oak form tool. Couldn't find them.
>>
>>1799304
This guy >>1799305 is right, it's a 1x drivetrain. And I've been riding regularly, just trying to figure out my shit since I'll be touring more than 1500km tour in August/September.
>>
can you realign a 126 mm steel frame to 135
of course also dropout and hanger realign is expected
>>
Do we ram baby carriages on bike roads or not?
beause I feel like I am being wrong by not ramming them.
>>
>>1799390
of course you can use a 1x.

but you will need a 32t front.
and
11-34 in the back if you are recreational
11-42 if you are recreational fat
11-50 if you are adventurer
>>
I just cold set a steel frame 126 mm to 135 mm with my bare hands, pulling and pushing, didnt even take much effort

what does that say
>>
What is the cheapest wide-range casette? >48 teeth biggest
>>
>>1799371
don't put it on your fork man
>>
>>1799370
Roots actually vary wildly, so it's not enough to know. Pick wheels, suspension, geometry first. However, that thing should blow the holy hell out of your current bike in every way because of the suspension alone. .
>>
>>1799401
I'm recreational trying to become adventurer. Not fat in the slightest.
>>
File: 1647833630904.jpg (43 KB, 480x269)
43 KB
43 KB JPG
>>1799399
only double-wides
>>
>>1799370
https://static.canyon.com/download/manuals/Canyon_MTB_EN_Internet.pdf
Looks like it's 'category 3 (out of 5)' use case, which is sort of explained on page 4 but it sounds vague. Fyi here's a huge gap between a tourney shitter and that if you don't necessarily want to spend $2.5k..
>>
>>1799369
yeah i did the same thing except i rode off with a bent fork not brain. Don't feel bad about it.
Most cyclists i think have to learn that lesson but hopefully someone will take the advice to heart

It's just so instinctual to say you're fine and get away.
>>
>>1799445
why seems like the most convenient place
theres not enough space behind the seattube
>>
yall helped me once like this so maybe id try again
ultegra 6700 dt swiss r1900, its coming from the rear hub area, the chain is pretty stretched out and it and the cassette should be changed out which i was hoping to do next month
the thing is though, this wasn't present a few days ago before i cleaned the bike, i used wd 40 because the chain was quite dirty/greasy and i don't have the tool to remove it, is it possible it got through to the bearing area? i applied oil to it twice already, although i wasn't aiming for the hub really, just the chain and the cassette a bit
front and rear derailleurs were completely reajusted and it shifts very smoothly without any issues
since it could also be heard a bit while coasting, i'm thinking freehub
https://vocaroo.com/147pdBJGrT8D
>>
File: ehrmann.jpg (152 KB, 819x1024)
152 KB
152 KB JPG
>>1797418
Sup /n/.
I have an issue with my rear fender. It has this clip on the seat tube and it's constantly sliding downwards (it's also held by screw on where rear rack would mount, but it's made to be "adjustable"). Just today noticed it had gotten so low it effects the front derailleur movement. Just zip-tied it down for now, but can anyone recommend me a better fender for the rear (rear only or kit, I don't care that much)? I use wide-ish (38 - 42 wide) 622 tires and would rather not fling water and shit to my back while commuting.
>>
>>1799346
When I got doored the guy apologized sincerely then I went home
>>
>>1798828
help me get this straight, yeah the chainrings come with crankarms too
I dont even know how it works, maybe the bottom bracket will already fit the new crankset?
lastly, of the things I gotta buy, am I missing anything?
>shifting lever with cable
>derailleur
and the crankset of course
actually one more question: can I safely use a triple speed derailleur for a double chainring if I just adjust it right and the shifter is just double speed anyway?
plus the derailleur indicates 48 teeth as the max supported ring size, but I might get a 50/34 teeth chainrings, shouldn't be a problem, right?
>>
>>1799541
It makes the noise if you're just rolling without pedaling? Kinda sounds like spokes to me. Got any loose ones, or like your shoelaces hitting them or something?
>>1799567
So the clamp is just slipping? I'd try putting something less slippery than bare metal under the clamp to keep it in place, like a cut off piece from an old inner tube or maybe electric tape. As long as it's not too thick to keep you from tightening it.
>>
>>1799719
It's not really a clamp, just C-shaped plastic clip that has gotten loose. I'd figure it's not long for this world, so I'd rather just replace it and be done with it.
>>
>>1799745
c shaped metal "clip"
>>
>>1799225
https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/umnles/so_are_these_38_or_40_mm_wide/
>>
>>1797418
All I want to do is commute by bike, how much shit do I actually need? Every other resource about this has different info, do I need to carry a full toolkit everywhere I go ?
>>
>>1799898
i commute to work 30+km and the only extra things i bring is an extra set of cloths.
luckily nothing happened so far but ideally i want to bring an extra tube, pump and a small multitool for ease of mind.
>>
>>1799915
>>1799915
>>1799915
>>
>>1798707
Yes, if the paint chipped off like that it means there are massive crackings running way under the in tact paint. That frame is a health hazard, toss it.
>>
>>1798967
The bird was likely watching you and chirping to your pedaling pace to fuck with you. You weren't her first victim and won't be the last either.
>>
>>1799262
>>1799282
If I just need to git gud, then it's fine. I have a decently steep decline near my house (~8%) that I could just bomb through in my old mtb, but the road bike goes way faster, and when I needed to brake I went to the drops just to make sure I wasn't going to blow past the traffic light.
>>
>>1798707
>>1799923
>paint chipped off like that it means there are massive crackings running way under the in tact paint
Not how it works.
Steel has a useful elastic region where you can bend it, and it springs back. That's why it's used to make.... springs. There's a "elastic limit" though, where the behavior changes from 'springs back' to 'permanently bent'.
But in OPs pic, looking at the tubes, we know the steerer tube and upper fork blade are supposed to be straight. The issue isn't "cracks under the paint", but using the fork blades as an example, the steel has been stretched on the front side where they're bent. What 're-bending' would do is stretch the rear to match--you're not really returning the material to the original state.

The paint is less flexible than the steel, so it cracks/flakes. That's it. You can't judge the steel by the paint, you judge the steel by bends, ripples, dimples, etc.
If you're curious, check these things out: the RJ Bike Guy video "Little Brute", the Hydraulic Press video "crushing long steel pipes", and look at Park Tool FFS-2.





Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.