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Post bike questions. Post photos of your issues

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
http://sheldonbrown.com/

previous
>>1749686
>>
how does one determine the best handlebar height for off-road riding?
is higher always better, specifically when going down steep, harsh terrain?
would a shorter stem improve control on tight switchbacks on a 90s rigid MTB, considering the headtube angle is rather steep?
>>
>>1750835
>is higher always better, specifically when going down steep, harsh terrain?
no
>would a shorter stem improve control on tight switchbacks on a 90s rigid MTB, considering the headtube angle is rather steep?
not necessarily
>>
>>1750835
a shorter stem steers faster. a longer stem steers a little slower. usually when people talk about control and mtb, bar-wdith is the determining factor
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1wXyjlUNYM

Is this the most kino movie scene featuring a bicycle?
>>
>>1750849
probably. confirmed kino and comfy - ride that route all the time. they just built a new bike lane on the road deck of the northern side of the bridge; bikes aren't allowed on the now ped only upper deck. not like that stops anyone, but still.
>>
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>>1750820
Got a large nail puncture in my tubeless tire, is it worth relating with a tire plug kit (pic related) or should I just get a new tire (how long will the plug last?). If relating with a tire plug kit, can I use one meant for car tires?
>>
>>1750860
Relating = repairing
>>
>>1750860
I know for motorbikes the strips are an excellent solution, can last very long. But motorbikes tires are much thicker and with lower pressures than bicycles. Id say get the tire fixed by a specialised shop.
>>
what is a bike
>>
>>1750888
best invention
>>
I've got an old shogun trailbreaker MTB. Shimano 200gs(?) but the gear levers are sticky, mushy and don't click. With great effort it will change gear but jump back immediately.
Is frictionless levers a cheap and quick fix? Are they universal?
I'm a poorfag and bikelet btw.
>>
>>1750863
>Id say get the tire fixed by a specialised shop.
If I take it to the shop I might as well replace the tire, the old one isn't that new and I'd like to avoid worrying that the plug might pop out. I was hoping to get a more definite answer.
>>
>>1750892
i would start with new cables before replacing anything else.
>>
>>1750889
even better than the George Foreman Lean Mean Fat-Reducing Grilling Machine??
>>
>>1750892
You could also try spraying wd40 in the shifters to see if you can loosen things up

Rj the bike guy has some vids on this
>>
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Yeah any decent tire is worth plugging. Plug + extra Stan's milk are you're good to go


Do heavier bikes make you more /fit/? Considering higher speeds mean less time in saddle, shorter times between stops
>>
>>1750908
Can I use car tire plugs?
>>
>>1750908
In some ways yes, in other ways no. Sustained light exercise trains your stamina, short intense exercise trains your muscle power, that's why roadies and endurance cyclists are twig boys and velodrome sprinters have t-rex legs. How you have to ride depends on what you want to achieve, but in reality having your bike weigh a kilo more or less or riding for half an hour longer or shorter isn't going to turn you into a twig or a t-rex, any remotely medium weight bike ridden for any remotely medium duration will give you a well rounded workout.
>>
>>1750908
>Do heavier bikes make you more /fit/
Bike weight has been discussed many times.
Its a significant factor during climbs but doesnt have almost any impact on flat roads.
Also many cyclist do home routines with weights to reinforce their legs.
>>
>>1750911
lol no form of cycling gives you big legs. velo sprinters do squats.
>>
>>1750892
The shifters work via a ratchet mechanism. If the teeth of the ratchet wheel get gunned up, they won’t ‘catch’. If the pawl gets gunned up and won’t spring back towards the wheel, it won’t catch.

Either take em apart and clean them with tooth brush and cleaner (and then re oil them). Or just spray we-40 in them like other anon said, and work them around.
>>
>>1750820
>those Indians

God bless the good old days when motorcycles were just bike frames with two-strokes strapped to them from the factory.
>>
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>rear brake housing end points up similar to pic
>water drips inside housing during wet rides
>rear brake cable freezes inside the housing when it's below 0*C outside
how do I fix it, how do I seal this? it's fucking annoying. this is an obvious design flaw
>>
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>>1751004
end caps for the housing. some cheap cables don't come with any. you can get either open or sealed end caps. i imagine your LBS could give you some if your bike didn't come with them.
>>
>>1750951
you know i believe in aliexpress parts, I do, but grips and bartape from them ime while being perfectly serviceable, for 1/4 the price, actually does not feel as good and is not worth cheaping out on except on poverty builds or for other peoples bikes as an alternative to not changing it from fucked old shit

I would be very surprised if cinelli cork doesn't feel better and it is something worth having be the best version of itself

>>1750974
>i just want something that won't fall apart after a single ride and looks decent.
fizik tempo microtex classic is the shit
it's way more durable than most other tape especially cork
and you can re-wrap it multiple times if you change shit up
>>
>>1751047
>fizik tempo microtex classic
ha, that's exactly what i use usually. i was just keen on trying to find a specific color, so i was looking at other tapes. the chinkshit cork tape is also extremely shit, stuff like the sram supercork isn't even that great but it's miles better than the cheap stuff.
>>
what will the schizo post today? maybe he will deny that tape measures need to be calibrated and checked in reply to a post showing clearly that manufacturers are putting whatever markings they please on them
>>
>>1751061
>chinks
>representative
better head outside right now anon, buildings aren't safe to be in either
oh actually the air is so polluted that's not a good idea
maybe uh
>>
>>1751063
are these chinks in the room with us right now you schizo cunt
>>
>>1751067
turn around and see
>>
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>>1751067
How many things within 5 feet of you right now say "Made In China" on them?
>>
>>1750968
+1
>>
>>1751004
this anon is correct:>>1751046
Whack a new end cap on there, you might try a daub of grease inside it first to give a bit of a "seal," which I wouldn't normally recommend except in cases like yours.

>>1750892
You need to take out the rear wheel so you can work the shifter without pedalling.
Use automotive spray degreaser to blast out the old separated grease and crud, working the shifter up and down through the gears until it frees up. If it doesn't free up, you'll need to invert the bike and spray a heap of degreaser in there to leave overnight (put a towel under it to catch the crud.)

When it dries, you can give it a spray with light lubricant: WD40 is ok in a pinch, but inox mx5 or triflow are much better. spray a bit in and work the shifter in the same way you did before.

>>1750835
The well accepted weight distribution for downhill MTB is around 45:55 front to rear.
Measure your distribution on a scale and a even height block of wood or book.
you can adjust your saddle back/up, as well as as spacers to your stem to get more rearward weight.
Unless your bike is a poor fit for you, it shouldn't be too hard to get a good weight distro. Longer/shorter stems, setback seatposts, and changing bar width/sweep can be used as some more advanced techniques for tricky bikes, but obviously cost money.
>>
>>1750908
THAT FUCKING HANDLEBAR!
>>
>trying to make bike more colorful or personalized or whatever
>just end up buying a lot of red shit like headset spacers and top cap and bar plugs because every time I try to be creative with colors it turns out hideous
wat do? Pic related except with white tape.
>>
>>1751180
change the red bits back to black, white is a good color for the bartape though. i'd say consider a white saddle, but that may be too much. sometimes simple is best.
>>
>>1751180
shouldn't have gotten a black/red fredsled in the first place
>>
>>1751180
i like the accents on the fork and seat tube. tan wall tires look pretty good with most color frames, but i wouldn't buy new tires just for the aesthetic. don't overthink it or overspend on it. you can barely see your bike when you're riding it. just spend more time picking a frame when you buy your next bike.
>>
>>1751182
t. the guy with that horrible lane-divider-yellow piece of crap
>>
>>1751175
>tfw 380x120x72mm bars

>>1751180
>wat do? Pic related except with white tape
Actually ride it. You'll then start to care a lot less about its looks.
>>
>What is a good trunk rack for an suv?

I don’t want a roof rack, as my roof rack is full of shit for when I go camping. Found this one on Amazon, $300 cheaper than Thule or Yakima ones. I drive a 2016 Jeep Patriot mommy missile.
>>
>>1750908
a faster bike makes you more confident to ride on roads so your exercise is less interrupted by staying away from cars etc
>>
>>1750908
shitty cable disc brakes will make you less fit because going fast = suicide
>>
>>1751209
hitch rack. 1up, kuat, yakima, thule. the exact type depends on whether or not you have carbon bikes. no scamazon shit, no straps or suction cups unless you don't value your car or your bikes in which case do whatever
>>
got a bike that's been sitting in an attic for years, what needs to be taken apart, cleaned, lubricated? should I just do everything?
>>
>>1751233
post a pic
>>
>>1751227
I don’t have a trailer hitch, but judging off the reviews, I’m better off paying to get a trailer hitch installed than fucking my car up with the trunk rack. Most use metal clips that go directly on the paint, and also seems like a lot of pressure on the trunk, putting 3 racks away like that.

Thanks.
>>
>>1751170
That entire paragraph on mtb bar height is total nonsense
>>
>>1751237
if you have the money to spend, a hitch mounted tray style rack is the best setup. no messing around if your bikes have slanted top tubes etc.
that said, i have a yakima trunk rack on my forester and it's been great, and it was much less expensive than getting a hitch installed. no damage to my car/rear window even when i drove 2000 miles with my bikes.
>>
Question, how can I maximize my mtb climbing hills better other than shifting the gears? Should I consider changing the types of wheels or something or is it a individual problem of training? I squat and run uphill fine if that matters.
>>
>>1751265
it's probably just a matter of training. a lighter bike makes climbing easier, but probably isn't worth the cost if you're not racing. clipless pedals also help with climbing, but you may not need them or like them on the rest of the trail.
>>
>>1751265
All you can really improve on the bike is weight (not worth it) and rolling resistance.

For the latter narrower tires will help but it depends on the terrain you ride. Hill climbing is something you have to practise to improve on
>>
>>1750849
bike looks small
would be better with a roadu biaku no?
>>
>>1751187
rude and also not me also post ur bike. I had a black and red carbon bike before
>>
>>1751290
The road is mostly asphalt with few areas that are mostly dirt but not rock heavy. The tires on my bike are KENDA K1080 Bike Tyre, size 29 x 2.35
>>
>>1750860
put in a tube and just ride it untill it's bald
>>
>>1751237
>>1751264
you can probably just pick a hitch from a junkyard and bolt it on...
you don't need to wire anything for a bike rack and the electrical hookup is probably there anyway.

what kind of fucking car doesn't have a hitch...
an suv even

pathetic

also the better bike racks are often the old ones you get used for like $5
>>
>>1751180
post an actual picture of it
>>
>>1751180
also

gold kmc chain
>>
>>1751265
saddle position and height is major for most.
I'd bet yours is too far back, too high, or a combo of both.

Also, do you run cleats or shoes?

>>1751342
YBN is best chainfu.
>>
is it ok to go one size over manufacturers rec
>>
>>1751478
usually workable
but 1 size under is preferable most times

you might want to check there's ball clearance
>>
>>1751480
you mean standover height?
i've had undersized bike all this while don't want anymore of that
>>
>>1751482
if you want minimal bar drop just buy a bike with that geometary and or fredstack it, rather than sizing up
>>
>>1751483
actually my size isn't available and size down looks ugly
maybe this is a sign that god wants me to get a more expensive gravel bike
>>
>>1751484
don't buy a new bike that isn't the right size
and don't buy a new bike that you don't like the look of

Those 2 things are not worth swaying on, ever
>>
>>1751478
depends.
going one size too big is way better than one size too small from a fit point of view, especially if you have unusual limb lengths or are top heavy etc.
>>1751485
>don't buy a new bike that you don't like the look of
Almost any bike can be fixed with a sick set of wheels n tyres m8, regardless of ugliness
>>
>>1751489
almost any bike will look better if you upgrade it with fancy cool shit but thats true for the bike you loved to begin with as well
>>
>>1751496
wheels and tyres, just wheels and tyres.
They can turn a junker into a nice bike performance-wise.
>>
>>1750908
Someone with better memory may correct me, but above 15km/h the air drag becomes dominating force acting against your wish to go faster.
>>
>>1751498
i thought we were talking about looking cool
>>
>>1751498
also, i disagree
i'd put a nice seat, pedals, and grips/tape ahead of those even
and then atleast better brake pads

then yeah, sure, wheels and tires do the buisiness. Hell, not even wheels, if any cheap hub is adjusted well and the rim is true, it's just tires.
>>
>>1751502
I'm not disputing the importance of contact points at all, but rather that on a bike you fit on well and are comfortable on will benefit hugely from a set of good spinners.
Even just latex tubes alone will buy you comfort, speed, and some watts for little money.
>>
>>1751504
we have strayed far from the original point that you shouldn't buy a bike that doesn't stir something in you
>>
>>1751506
The proof is in the riding lad
>>
>>1751508
no no no the proof is looking at it propped up outside a cafe
>>
>>1751391
I've never had or seen too high a saddle to climb, always too low. a saddle too high to effectively climb will fuck you riding even on the flat but a saddle slightly too low can be tolerable on the flat
>>
>>1751509
this, it's truly all about how cool your bike looks.
>>
is merida speeder a good bike
it doesn't have that comfy sturdy commuter/tourer feel
>>
What is the recommended pedal power meter these days?
I only hear bad things about Garmin
Not comfortable with aliexpress wares
Assioma seem to be shilled a lot, the UNO variant is reasonably "cheap"
I'm an amateur who's autist for numbers, that's my use case
>>
>>1751540
>>>/sp/
>>
>>1751567
surely you mean
>>>/asp/
>>
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What are my options for low-rider racks on a Kona Unit?
It has eyelets in front and behind the axle, and the triple cargo cage holes, but no low-rider mounts, which apparently are on both sides of the fork leg.
Racks with a bow over the wheel won't fit over the plus tire so that rules out Tubus Tara and similar. I've seen two-piece racks that are mounted to the bottom eyelet and to the fork leg with an u-bolt, my only concern is whether they would be wobbly or come loose on rougher terrain. I'd like to avoid monstrosities like the Surly rack or Bontrager Carry Forward, but I will take reliability over aesthetics.
>>
How do I get better at riding? I always get tired and have to get off and walk, this sometimes causes me to show up late to work.

I weigh around 200lbs and ride a full suspension mongoose mountain bike I bought from the local university's impound lot for $20.
>>
>>1751623
>How do I get better at riding?
Ride more, lock out the suspension if you're not full mountain riding and ride even more
>>
>>1751623
first lose weight fatty
adjust your seat
ride at a good cadence over 60 rpm
get slicker tires
>>
>>1751626
>>1751628
Today I paced myself and tried to keep my cadence steady. I didn't go faster but I didn't show up as tired.
>>
>>1751623
a full sus amongus?
>>
>>1751623
Lets see the bike.
>>
>>1751623
buy a trek fx 3 disc
>>
>>1751623
How steep is the climb for making you to step down?
If its just flat riding I have no words for how bad in shape you are.
Good news, you can loose weight and get healty if you want.
>>
>>1751659
Good. Now ride more, faggot!
>>
>>1751596
are you saying none of those fork mounts is a low rider mount? I would assume the middle one should work with a Tubus Duo or similar
>>
>>1751596
the middle cargo cage hole will work perfectly with a low rider rack
not all mid-fork bosses are both sided.

just use some threadlocker if you're worried about it rattling loose but i don't think that's necessary
>>
>>1751732
wait nvm I just realized the duo mounts from both sides, but this >>1751733
>>
>>1751534
>merida speeder
Merida is a top 5 company.
>it doesn't have that comfy sturdy commuter/tourer feel
Because it isn't a commuter. It's a weird 1x11 flat bar road. If you want something comfy or relaxed or for touring, get something else.
Merrida doesn't offer a dedicated tourer right now.
>>
>>1750820
How does bike riding compare to jogging?

I was playing with the kids yesterday and realised I have no stamina after running around for 5 minutes. Can bike riding help me improve my stamina for running around?

I haven't ridden a bike in 10 years
>>
>>1751757
yes bike riding is excellent for improving your cardio/ fitness

but biomechanically they're totally different and the only way to be able to run around is to run around, like, i can easily ride a bike 100km but i struggle to run 1km
>>
what are the best lifts for gaining explosive sprinting power other than stuff like squats, cleans, deadlifts?
>>
>>1751768
squats is literally all you need
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkuIlNAOMPY
>>
>>1751733
But then each side of the rack is only held by 2 bolts, is that enough to keep them rigid? Remember, I won't have the bow going around the wheel.
>>
>>1751776
only one way to find out
do it for us
>>
>>1751775
I am not the same guy but I can't put a barbell on my back due to back injury. Do trap bar squats work as well as back squats?
>>
>>1751778
I've seen someone do that, doesn't exactly fill me with confidence.
>>
>>1751776
there's no functional difference between just the bolt, and a bolt with a nut on the inside of the fork blade

The nylock nut just makes it less likely to loosen, again, use threadlocker if that's a concern.

>Remember, I won't have the bow going around the wheel.
You could though. The most generic lowriders are the blackburn style, like this, which has the bow as a seperate piece. There are multiple ways to attach it and it can be lengthened. Infact if you bought lowriders without a bow you could still add a bow, it's literally just a bent piece of metal, and you can attach is with hose clamps or p-clamps. I would definately do that on a unit as that bike will be thrashed offroad and the bow greatly reduces the chance of your rack breaking
>>
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>>1751780
on that rack for example you could so easily add the bow

just get an appropriate piece of metal
find a circular thing with the right radius to bend it over
then bent it, cut it to length, and hose clamp it on

wa la, rack is now way more stable
>>
>>1751779
you could try front squats...or maybe zercher squats.....
>>
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>>1751782
>there's no functional difference between just the bolt, and a bolt with a nut on the inside of the fork blade

No but 2 piece racks designed for lowrider mounts attach on both sides of the fork leg.
I could possibly make the blackburn one work but it doesn't seem they make it anymore.
I guess I'll look for something similar or that looks like it would be easy to attach a custom made bow.
>>
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So I bought pic related, so far I changed the seat, removed the big chain ring and front derailleur, next I'll change the dropbar for a flat and install mtb or bmx type levers.

Couple questions, the cassette is only a 7 speed and considering I removed the front derailleur how lacking will it be? Should I keep the big chain ring and remove the small one instead?
>>
>>1751800
>removed the big chain ring and front derailleur
why
a couple hundred grams on a bike that's probably 11kg will not make that much of an impact. if you want to lose weight, pick up some cheap 700c wheels assuming those are 27s or get better tires, and i'm sure the saddle that was on it was fairly light as well.
>>
>>1751800
>and install mtb or bmx type levers.
let me warn you about this
bmx type levers all suck because they don't have a return spring
mtb levers need to be short pull so you need ones from the 80s/90s designed for cantilevers
most mtb levers around are for v-brakes

you can measure it to tell, it's the distance between the pivot and the cable anchor point, c-c, should be like 25mm or less for short pull
>>
>>1751789
>No but 2 piece racks designed for lowrider mounts attach on both sides of the fork leg.
i know that's a thing but it's not standard at all
most aren't like that
>>
>>1751803
>why
The shifter was incredibly shitty and I like the cleaner look. This isn't a performance bike so I just want it to be reliable, will the loss of big chain ring make a huge difference when riding?
I definitely need new wheels, these mavic are fairly old and the rear has a slight bent to it, thing I've never learned to fix myself.
Tires are 700x32 which are too wide for that frame, 25 are much better fit but considering I may ride on gravel roads they're staying for now.
Is it too retarded to put a flat bar on it?
>>
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>>1751806
Dude killer advice thanks a lot, I'm new to this bike thing and your input is highly appreciated. I had no idea about the issue with the levers. so much so I pretty much had pic related ready to buy.
>>
>>1751809
>I definitely need new wheels, these mavic are fairly old and the rear has a slight bent to it, thing I've never learned to fix myself.
not him but
old wheels can be improved. any replacement you buy likely needs this as well, unless it's for more than the worth of the bike:
buy some cone spanners, loose balls, and grease, and overhaul the hubs yourself
if they have good cones/cups or you can find replacement cones/cups then you want to try and keep them, but even if the bearing surfaces are damaged and you don't replace them, a clean and fresh grease will make them a lot nicer to use.

I would then just get a shop to true the wheel. It's much harder to do without a stand, and without experience. It's not an expensive job.

>32 is too wide
not unless it rubs

>I just want it to be reliable [so i lost the big ring]
on a beater i think honestly losing your top gears is ok. But you have actually made the bike -less- reliable. The FD acts as a chain keeper. Now if you beat on it offroad you will drop the chain. And the extreme cross chaining you'll run will wear everything quicker. It's not like friction front shifting is 'unreliable', it should be bombproof if you set it up well. I don't mind it as a modificiation to go shitty 1x like you have but it's not as you say it is. The gearing change you actually probably want is a wider cogset in the back.
>>
>>1751810
that would be a terrible idea lol
they won't even be able to lock up the wheels because you lose mechanical advantage.
i suggest you go to a co-op or lbs with a used parts bin, with a ruler. Those nicer canti flat bar levers are common take off parts as people 'upgrade' to v-brakes
>>
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>>1751810
basically the early 90s xt or deore ones, for cantis, are the best levers you can get
don't shy away from STI levers either (ones with the shifter attached). Especially if the shifter is broken those are often cheap/free. And you can most of the time cleanly remove the shifter part with a hacksaw.
This is also something you can often get a decent enough set from the dump

like alivio tier is good even

just as long as they're not plastic and if they're cabled pull them hard and see they don't flex badly
>>
>>1751780
looks pretty sturdy to me
not that you should be hauling a ton of weight on the front anyway
>>
>>1751809
the shifter could probably be taken apart and cleaned, same with the derailleur. i mean try it out for a bit, if it leaves you wanting more then just put the old parts back on. if you have 700c wheels and just want something comfortable to ride, just true the wheel and get some better tubes/tires, and if your tires don't rub then they aren't too wide.
like the other guy says, just try and take this thing as an introduction to service as well. repairing bicycles is piss easy.
flat bar is fine, but i prefer bullhorns. as stupid as it sounds you really can just chop off the drops and flip them around, but don't do that if you may change your mind.
>>
>>1751821
the ol' flop n chop aye anon
don't see that one round too much anymore
>>
>>1751813
The wheels I have currently seem to be ok but yes, they need to be true because as I've said the back has a small but noticeable curve.

>32 issue
It doesn't rub but it's pretty close like a couple mm tops.

See I had no idea removing the derailleur would be an issue, I looked at it and a single ring and no derailleur looked so much cleaner that I didn't think twice... it's all there in the corner so I can easily assemble it back if issues like chain popping off regularly happen.

>>1751815
How does that happen? Isn't the lever essentially doing the same motion by pulling the cable?
Currently the bike has shimano 600 breaks and I really want to change the levers because they feel totally foreign to me riding a road bicycle for the first time.
That said if I can adapt and have the current breaks stopping well without needing to pull the lever against the bar I may keep them.
>>
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>>1751623
>Mongoose
That's a walmart bike that probably weighs 50 pounds and has excess friction in a dozen places, plus even good full sus bikes are slow.

>>1751628
>>1751700
>manlets seething
Depending on height 200 pounds isn't exactly landwhale territory.
>>
>>1751825
>That said if I can adapt and have the current breaks stopping well
lol i have a bike with a 600 groupset and they aren't useless but compared to a dual pivot they are not good. the only issue that would arise is that it will likely reduce your tire clearance, might be time for a pad and cable change as well. setting up single pivots is kind of a pain as well, so expect a tedious process trying to get the perfect balance of lever pull with no rub.
>>
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>>1751817
Thanks I'll check used parts online to see if I can find some.

>>1751821
There's no working with the shifter honestly, it's pic related and absolute plastic garbage. The derailleur on other end albeit old and heavy I kind like it and can work.
I also have a problem with the back shifter, although it's metal and surprisingly smooth and works great it's on the wrong side which is annoying.
>>
>>1751828
>lol i have a bike with a 600 groupset and they aren't useless but compared to a dual pivot they are not good
What would you recommend for replacement, something that works well but not break the bank, specially on a bike that costed less than 100€
>>
>>1751831
new pads. they should be fine, really. don't fall into the pit of upgrading everything when in reality it's not really worth it.
>>
electric bike
>>
>>1751834
Fair enough.
I bought a cheap bike for a reason but now for some stupid reason I'm all excited thinking about ways to upgrade as if spending money on new part would not would be any different than buying a better and more expensive bike to start with.
>>
>>1751825
>How does that happen? Isn't the lever essentially doing the same motion by pulling the cable?
the distance between the pivot point and the cable anchor point on the brake lever determines how much cable is pulled with a certain movement of the lever
So the full lever travel might pull 2cm of cable, or it might pull 4cm of cable depending on that distance.

If it's pulling 2cm, it's pulling twice as hard as if it's pulling 4cm. It's like a pulley. That's called 'mechanical advantage'. If you have a bike with short pull brakes (caliper, cantis) and a long pull lever, the break will get a lot weaker, there is less force. If you do it the other way around, then the pads will need to be set very very close to the rim, because the lever will not move them as far as it should, and, the brake will likely be too strong too readily and will lock up straight away.

short pull vs long pull is not a binary either, it's a spectrum, with some give in mixing and matching systems outside of what is strictly ideal, especially with good components.

Flexy, single pivot long reach old brakes are not good, they're inherently weak, and they will not stand a lever with less mechanical advantage.
>>
>>1751830
>There's no working with the shifter honestly, it's pic related and absolute plastic garbage.

I totally disagree. Those crappy plastic friction shifters work absolutely fine. It's not indexed, it's just pulling cable, what can go wrong? It doesn't matter if it's flexy or even stiff. If you miss those top gears or have trouble dropping chains just put it back, maybe, it needs flushing if it's stiff, that's not hard.
>>
>>1751831
This. GOOD new pads.
Some shimano cartridge ones.
New cables.

change your mindset from 'upgrading' to 'servicing with high quality parts'

the latter is a waste of money, the former is very sensible.
>>
>>1751830
and it probably just needed a new cable
>>
>>1751826
no way a 7 feet hooman bought a non xxl bike
>>
>>1751842
Dude honestly as someone who's a newfag on the chan this has to be one of the best replies I've ever read, thanks a lot for taking the time righting such clear post so I could at least understand the basics.

Now lets see if I'm not being retard, if I were indeed to convert road brakes to flatbar types, this ones would work right? https://www.bike24.com/p2125065.html

>>1751843
I mean you're more than likely right but I really don't want that shifter back, more so when it was previously installed on the stem.

>>1751844
Yeah that makes sense.
>>
>>1751800
depends on the crank-sets Pitch Circle Diameter
>old road bikes, track bikes
130 mm x5 (CC 76.4)
38 to 53 tooth

>late 1980s / early 1990s mtb and some touring bikes
110 mm x5 (CC 64.7)
32 to 53 tooth

common for casual road bikes is 39 48
race bikes often came with 42 52
you could try 39 42 for a giggle, & some free-wheels have a 13 tooth small sprocket

if you remove one chain ring you may have to prioritise chain line
the innermost chain ring works ok with the sprockets 1 to 4 but the chain skew on sprockets 5 to 7 is a bit much and effects the accuracy of shifting
likewise the outermost chain ring has problems with the three largest sprockets

>>1751810
calliper or canter-lever brakes with a low mechanical advantage are not suited to short 2 finger levers, one attempt to remedy this was SLR plus
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site/shimano_bicycle_system_component_-_91_page_51.html
3 or 4 finger levers will work much better such like >>1751817 posted
M732 is the last to come without an integrated shifter
>>
>>1751768
I would type it out, but it's just easier to link:

http://www.aboc.com.au/Members/carl/ais-power-training-for-sprinters

>>1751779
Front bar squats and lunges are superior to all other varieties.

>>1751821
>>1751822
Chop 'n' flops are based, especially in <40cm bars.
>>
>>1751672
I actually am saving up to buy a new bicycle, but you're stupid if you think I already have money for a bike considering I'm riding a bike to work and that said bike cost me $20.

>>1751700
It's not super steep just lots and lots of flat. I am in bad shape but that's why I'm cycling to work instead of taking the bus

>>1751826
>>1751848
I am 5'8" last time I measured my BMI it was 31, I had 26% bf, and 147lbs of muscle mass. This is an old measurement and I'm sure I have improved by then. I will measure myself tomorrow morning and post bike pic >>1751671
>>
>>1751850
>this ones would work right? https://www.bike24.com/p2125065.html
>Compatible with road callipers, canti, road disc and V-brake. Light action and accurate brake control.

um no

well it would work but it's not ideal

when levers say they're compatible with everything they tend to be longish pull
>>
>>1751865
>Chop 'n' flops are based, especially in <40cm bars.
the whole tite gaps thing is kinda retarded when the fixies or old roadies they're on are invariably overgeared and some leverage to mash up hills would actually be quite helpful
>>
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>>1751873
Good on you for committing to losing the weight lad, be sure to fix up your diet while you're at it.
>>
>>1751874
>when levers say they're compatible with everything they tend to be longish pull
Since those are from their road line, I'd be more inclined to believe they're shorter pull.
>>
>>1751876
>Get stronger
>Use a slightly bigger sprocket
2 great solutions, feel free to pick one.
>>
>>1751877
>steel Colnago
>not Campagnolo components
i'm gonna fucking barf
>>
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What's the best way to attach a backpack to a bike?
>just get bike bags
No, it's for going /out/
>>
>>1751886
On a rack, but something bound to go wrong at worst possible time, therefore get panniers
>>
>>1751878
yeah, maybe, maybe not though. If he could find a shop to measure them at that would be ideal
I just measured some
approx:

alivio canti lever 7spd era : 23
alongha bmx lever: 22
other canti lever: 24

avid vs: 33
litepro cnc levers (which say for v and caliper): 35
cheap Shimano V brake integrated: 43

Having experimented with this stuff i think you really don't want anything over 25 for a single pivot caliper brake, or cantis. And I wouldn't trust it without measuring.
>>
>>1751887
If I'm riding to an /out/ location and then going to hike 15 miles or more I need to have a backpack with me, panniers don't work for that.
>>
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>>1751886
zip tie a metal basket on a rack
>>
>>1751889
>riding to an /out/ location and then going to hike 15 miles or more
where would you leave your bike
>>
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>>1751886
tips for you
1: get the industrial big zip ties
2: cinch them down extremely tight by pulling with pliers, and pushing on the head with a big flathead screwdriver. Be careful because 1 in 100 will snap doing this so don't smack yourself in the head or whatever
3: trim with sidecutters
>>
>>1751892
At the trailhead, obviously.
>>
>>1751893
>>1751890
These do work but have a rather large profile, still better than having the backpack on my shoulders.

>>1751892
Where I go there's pretty much no one there and if anything I can lock to a tree.
Also going /out/ can also mean going to the beach.
>>
>>1751897
>have a rather large profile
what? get one as small as it can be to fit your backpack. It might stand up vertically or poke out at an angle

don't see why it has to be any larger than it has to be

it's just an easier more secure version of strapping it to the racktop which is what most people do.

The other good option is probably standing it up vertically on a front rack and strapping it to your handlebars but that won't work with most cabling.

>having the backpack on my shoulders
yeah you know that would be awful right, don't do that
>>
>>1751893
>obscure tip
use the zip ties at a 45 degree angle over each point where the racks horizontal and vertical stays are welded together
this way the zip tie is pulling on both elements at once, thus placing less stress on the weld
>>
>>1751899
lol that sort of makes sense but zip ties are not going to break a rack, if they're actually under strain, which they're usually not, the zip tie would break WAY easier
>>
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>>1751901
this is not such a big problem for the 25 and 30 kg rated racks
15 kg rated racks flex enough to fatigue the welds
steel racks have more resilient welds, so are better for the cheep end of things
>>
>>1751903
hmm is that your rack?
break it with zip ties, fix it with zip ties
>>
>>1751899
Thanks detailsanon.
>>
>>1751540
dcrainmaker is a good source for reviews of bike electronics. besides the favero and garmin there are srm pedal pms. wahoo is going to be coming out with speedplay pm pedals soon
>>
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>>1751905
my old rack yes
>fix it with zip ties
that's much what I did as it slowly fell apart
six 25 kg rated zip ties to hold the rack together, drilled two holes to help anchor the adjustment plate
>>1751911
my wording is not so good for explaining things, but I hope it helps somewhat
I have been working on some info graphics but they need more work to be better than what is already out there
>>
>>1751525
then why does ur bike look like shit
>>
why am I getting awful hip pain on my rigid mtb after 40 or so km of riding? never happened before. recently added a pretty heavy rear rack but surely that wouldn't be enough to make pedalling hard enough to fuck me after so many km?
>>
>>1751933
oh man, diagnosing different pains on a bike can be tough because there can be different causes. Common hip pain causes though can include just overdoing it, so if riding 40km at a time is new for you then maybe cut back a little. Another one is riding in too high of a gear/low cadence since you tend to exert more force on the pedals when doing so. Or sometimes hip muscles that don't get used fully or much at all during cycling can tighten up when you ride such as your hip flexors and piriformis.
>>
>>1751933
where in your hip is it? Need more info.
>>
>>1751886
Panniers with a folding backpack inside if you want to walk around camp.
>>
>>1751937
>>1751939
its about 200 up and 150 to the right of the tip of my penis (fully flaccid)
>>
>>1751954
w-what?
>>
>>1751954
Judging on mine it is more on the thigh, might be actual joint pain due to arthritis, your hip joint is worn/disintegrating
>>
>>1751957
its kind of in the crease between thigh and belly. I am kinda fat
>>
>>1751865
>>1751822
i didn't realize this was a common thing lmao
>>
>>1751933
start by posting the bike
>>
I’m going to experiment with weight distribution this weekend by riding my rigid mtb at the local pedal-to-the-top bike park over and over trying out different combinations of bags on my handlebars, rack, rear panniers and fork legs and see where the weight works best for me and to see what climbing/downhill feels like loaded. I expect to need less than 25lbs of gear at any time
What junk should I put in my bags to test? Clothes?
>>
>>1751974
the fit is the same its been for the last 6 months of weekly 40km rides and daily 10km rides thanks
>>
>>1751975
just do weekend camping trips..
>>
>>1751978
so you've been riding with something wrong in your bike for 6 months and it finally took its toll on your body
post the bike, we won't make fun of you
>>
>>1751981
i ride several bikes of several styles. thanks for the shitposts. I think I've just strained something after being off cycling over the Christmas break
>>
>>1751985
>shitposts
just trying to help
but I guess you already figured it out, eh
>>
Is there any better/cheaper rim than the Pacenti Brevet for 650b rim brakes in the US? I used to think the Pacenti was a premium rim, but everything else I can find, even the shitty VOs are just as expensive. I can't find any ZAC-19s in stock and CR-18s are dead.
>>
>>1751979
Yeah that’s the plan, but it will be through mountain bike and MX trails, lots of blue and up to black technical level, and I want riding quality to be a priority so I’m getting a feel for loaded riding on actual terrain
>>
>>1751992
dude just pick some setup at a guess and then experiment out there and or try a different one next time

don't go and do beta testing at a bike park, the fuck ?

You're gearfagging too hard
>>
>>1751975
load your bike as if you were going to the actual trip, that way you can also figure out where to put what
>>
>>1751992
>riding black trails
>with the level of knowledge that would lead you to testing 20 set ups at a bike park
boring larp
>>
Have there been any scientific studies done on starting out with a balance bike when learning to ride a bicycle, vs. starting out with a pedal bike?
>>
>>1752009
There was a scientific study an anon did using city bikes trying to learn to ride and he failed miserably.
I don't know if that counts.
>>
>>1751975
rocks
if you can haul rocks you can haul anything
>>
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>>1752009
Balance bike will teach countersteering without extra complication, which is the thing that needs to click in your head to be able to ride. Once you've got that pedaling is just spinning your legs.
>>
>>1752009
just git gud
unless you're legitimately disabled or retarded you have no excuse not to learn it pretty easily
bikes don't matter much in the grand scheme of things, a study would be pretty useless and not lead to interesting conclusions
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bikeshedding
>>
if you build a surly bike yourself will it cost significantly less?
>>
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Is picrel and a spanner all I need for bike maintenance?
>>
>>1752071
no you also need
>chain break tool
>chain fix tool
>cone wrench
>degreasing and cleaning substances
>lubing substances of multiple thickness (no you cannot go dry like with your wife)
>bottom bracket tool
>cassette and freewheel tool
>big adjustable wrench
>climbing ladder
>chain whip (for the slaves)
>lycra ironing tool
>dreauiler and rotor alignment tool
>break pad alignment tool
>cock and ball tuck tool
>hydro brake bleed kit (for those times of the month)
>mineral oil
>spoke wrench
>tyre levers
>>
>>1752061
No. Maybe less than the surly prebuilt, but those are just examples, as surly's parent company lives on feeding LBS stores.

>>1752071
No, but it's a good start. Take a look at bike multitools.
>>
>>1752096
>take $600 hipster cromo frame
>take the components of an entry level hybrid and build the bike under $1000
>upgrade it slowly over the years as you're always going to like the frame and it's going to last forever anyway
is this a good poorfag strategy
>>
>>1752090
The sad thing is that as trolly as this reply is written, it is still mostly correct.
>>
>>1752071
you wish lol
>>
>>1752071
no, the average normie doesn't do enough to take care of their bike, they have some shitty walmart tier bike that they barely ride and they wear out the bearings and throw it away or let it sit unused in their garage. to maintain your bike properly you should be able to take pretty much everything apart although you can leave wheelbuilding and truing to a professional if you want.
>>
>>1752000
In 12 years of riding I’ve never put anything on my bike more than water
>>
>>1752090
>>cock and ball tuck tool
>Hi, Calvin Jones here from the park tool company, here to introduce the new CBTT-1"
>>
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recommend some grippy 28 inch tyres, my rear keeps stepping out in sharp turns
>>
>>1752127
>>
>>1752129
road tyres* width doesn't matter I'll change wheels if need be
>>
>>1752127
it's a british invention
>>
how do I know when to replace the crankset? current one has ~13kkm at the moment
>>
>>1752154
when the teeth start looking like shark fins
>>
I've got a collection of old tan wall tyres in condition ranging from OK to amazing, how best to store when not in use? Most are unwired but I have a couple of wired pairs too, especially interested in how to preserve the suppleness and overall condition of the tan walls.
>>
>>1752158
sell them for ridiculous prices before they become unusable
>>
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>>1752158
Keep them in a dry place away from sunlight. Also, don't stick them in the same space as your home heating/cooling system, as ozone and other gasses can break down rubber.

>>1752154
Cranksets last pretty much forever unless damaged, it's bottom brackets (replace when rough) and chainrings (replace when sharkfin profile appears or when chainsuck occurs with a new chain).

>>1752129
Are you over-inflating your tires? To your question though, if you're looking for a pavement tire as I'd guess, I've always been happy with the grip of the GP5000 and earlier versions in the same line.

>>1752101
>>1752061
Depends on you really - are you able to do all your own work, have the tools already, and able to find parts for cheap? If so it can be cheaper to build your own bike, but if not then the prebuilt will be cheaper all things considered.
>>
>>1752129
gp5k
conti 4 season

grip on both those is amazing
>>
>>1752171
>>1752178
underinflating if anything, trying to make the most of what little grip I have. But thanks lads, I'll look into those
>>
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>>1751227
What do I get for carbon bikes?
>>
>>1752181
In that case any hitch rack with wheel trays is going be superior to a trunk rack. But if you must use a trunk rack to carry a bike without a straight toptube, you can do that with a crossbar adapter (pic for reference but there any options from many different brands and they all do the same basic thing).
>>
>>1752154
1: you replace your chain when it measures stretch
2: you replace your cassette when it skips on a new chain
3: you replace your chainrings when they skip on a new chain and a new cassette

many people ignore 1 and 2 and go straight to 3
>>
>>1752203
I'm going to replace cassette and chain soon.
I guess I'll have to test it and decide later on if the chainrings can stay.
>>
>>1752208
that's the way to do it, you can sight it and guess, but even visibly worn/damaged chainrings can work well enough

unless they're badly sharktoothed

Actually often when the chainrings are looking like they're on their last legs, it's a bad idea to replace chain/cassette, and you should just ride it all into the ground together.

Also, when changing chainrings, you either want to source good quality used ones cheaply (plan in advance) or change the entire crankset and take it as an oppurtunity to modify your gearing to something which is better for you. New good chainrings are rarely cost effective.
>>
>>1752101
>is this a good poorfag strategy
kinda
if the hybrid is free

a better strategy would be buying a complete used cromo bike, instead of a new frame. Functionally equivalent, AND cheaper and you get a bunch of quality parts
>>
>>1752071
if the bike is slightly older..
you may also need a #2 Philips Screwdriver
and a small collection of open ended open ended wrench between 7 and 17 mm
>>
>>1752214
>used cromo bike
thats not an option
could go cheaper cromo bike
>>
>>1752218
>thats not an option
Why? Where do you live?
>>
>>1752027
You don't need to countersteer a bicycle because it's so light relative to the rider you can just lean. Countersteer matters for motorcycles because the vehicle is so heavy it's hard to get it to start turning
>>
>>1752179
not them but fwiw i like my michelin power tts more than my gp5ks, i feel like they are a bit more grippy, smoother, and have a bit less rr. little bit cheaper as well.
irrelevant, but they do make a really cool whrrrrrrrrrrrr sound as well, my contis don't do that.
>>
>>1752244
It matters for tricky turning situations and quick reaction time. Just leaning turns slowly and in a large turning circle, countersteering makes quick tight turns possible
>>
>>1752027
This was not what I asked for though.
>>
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>>1752244
You literally HAVE to countersteer a bicycle. You absolutely cannot only turn the handlebar to the right if you're trying to turn right.
>>
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Are there any downsides to ergonomic grips like pic related? I know that they are more comfortable but it seems that when it comes to bikes, more comfortable is ever rarely also faster.

The only downsides I can see in these grips is that it limits at what angles you can grab them at.
>>
>>1752266
>I know that they are more comfortable
I don't think they are. I don't like them at all. 'Ergonomic' doesn't mean more ergonomic it just means differently ergonomic

It's just a preference thing
>>
>>1752263
wrong
>>
>>1752263
last time we had this arguement I told you to go and try doing it. Have you done that yet. Because it's demonstrably possible to steer without countersteering. Like, what do you think happens?

It's so easy to poke holes in this bullshit all you have to do is try to do it.

Though, of course, countersteering is very important and good.
>>
>>1752273
>>1752276
I wasn't involved in any argument. But I have tried it before.
>all you have to do is try to do it.
It's really hard because you instinctively countersteer, even if it's just a little bit.

https://youtu.be/llRkf1fnNDM
https://youtu.be/9cNmUNHSBac
>>
>>1752278
I have also tried it. It's not difficult at all.
>>
>>1752286
I guarantee you countersteered, even a tiny amount, but you don't think you did.
>>
>>1752288
I didn't even touch the bars.
>>
>>1752289
Well then that's completely different.
>>
>>1752291
How is it different?
>>
>>1752273
wrong
>>
>>1752292
Did you watch those videos I posted above? Do you understand physics?
>>
>>1752298
anon just posting videos or articles for someone to read is obnoxious behavior and not an argument

you make your case, and then if you want to provide supporting evidence, you explain it yourself as well. Otherwise it's just nothing.

You are refusing to engage with anything. Like go outside ride now and try to steer without countersteering and tell us how it went. Why won't you do that?
>>
>>1752288
>I guarantee you countersteered, even a tiny amount, but you don't think you did.
What would happen if a robot riding a bicycle was programmed to lean in one direction and turn the bars slightly (or just allow them to be turned by the lean).

It definitely wouldn't be countersteering. Would it turn?
>>
>>1752305
Oh fuck off, all you've said is "I tried it and I didn't have to countersteer." My "case" was that I've also tried it and it's almost impossible. Then I posted evidence. If you don't want to watch it, that's your prerogative, I don't give a shit. And I'm not going outside to try it right now. I've already tried it, as I've said.
>>
I want to buy a bike to put an ebike kit, on it, do I want drum brakes or disc brakes
>>
>>1752309
>My "case" was that I've also tried it and it's almost impossible
You're not being clear though. Are you saying it's not possible to not counter steer when turning, or, if you don't counter steer you can't turn?

Because it's starting to sound like the former and that's not physics that's just your brain being programmed a certain way.

>If you don't want to watch it, that's your prerogative
If you actually explained the content i'd be interested
>>
>>1752309
Also, if i can do it, and you can't do it, all that proves is that you can't do it. Not that it's impossible

me doing it proves that it is possible
>>
>>1752244
>You don't need to countersteer a bicycle
I'll join the chorus and say that you're simply mistaken. It's true that most of the time we ride bikes we don't need to deliberately countersteer since 'just lean' accomplishes the same thing tolerably well - but if you're going to ride at speed down a mountain road with hairpin curves, or ride downhill in a group with other riders, you absolutely do need to countersteer deliberately in order to start steering a specific line and make course corrections once you're already leaned over in the turn.

>>1752266
You already got this one - if you're riding a mountain bike or a bmx bike aggressively you want to be able to position your hands anywhere along the grip at any angle and find a consistent shape and profile, so that's why round grips are used. Ergo grips are for bikes with flat bars where you'll keep the same posture and hand positioning most of the time.
>>
>>1752310
drum brakes are heavy and will overheat and fail on long downhills

their braking power can be good or it can be bad

the advantage is just that they're very low maintenance, under relaxed useage, and they do not suffer in the wet.

They're practically non-existant outside of dutch shitters and I don't think a dutch shitter is an ideal e-bike conversion candidate. If you live somewhere flat with good bicycle infrastructure where such things even exist why do you want an e-bike to begin with?
>>
>>1752312
>If you actually explained the content i'd be interested
Dude I don't know what to tell you. If you don't want to watch the video without me first spoonfeeding you the concept of it, then I don't care.
>>
>>1752313
Well my whole opinion is based on the fact that I don't think you're really doing it. I think that you think you're doing it, but you are in fact countersteering a tiny bit and not realizing it.
>>
>>1752310
drum brake only advantage is higher mechanical braking power. this means they're good for handbrakes on cars because cars are heavy. a bicycle is the wrong use case for a drum brake
>>
>>1752318
My suspicion is the video is explaining what countersteering is and why it's important which I already know and agree with and you'll just be patronizing me and wasting my time. If you want to post a source say what it says. That's not spoonfeeding, it's just not being an obtuse faggot.
>>
>>1752306
>What would happen if a robot riding a bicycle was programmed to lean in one direction and turn the bars slightly (or just allow them to be turned by the lean).
>It definitely wouldn't be countersteering. Would it turn?

>>1752321
why'd you ignore this and what's your answer big boy
>>
>>1752325
ever thought that maybe your suspicions are wrong you absolute fuckhead?
>>
>>1752327
you've certainly done nothing to say so
>>
>>1752326
>why'd you ignore this and what's your answer big boy
because I hate robots.

>>1752325
Fine. The second video features a bike with a mechanism added on that prohibits steering in one direction at the push of a button. So you're riding straight, I lock it via remote to you can only turn left, but in order to turn left, you first need to countersteer to the right. But I've made it so you can't do that. And all the people in the video fall. And die.
>>
>>1752330
Ok I watched 3 minutes I think I get the gist.
>And all the people in the video fall
it's because they're steering at low speeds with their bars

you can easily execute a turn without countersteering, by leaning to turn.
This is how you turn with no hands. Which is obviously possible.
>>
>>1752330
the basic idea

>if you turn your bars the direction you want to turn it shifts your balance the other way and you then either fall over or correct and turn in that direction

that's right
If you're steering with the bars

But if you just lean in one direction, your balance will obviously be going in that direction and then your bars can be turned that way and you turn that way. Why does this not make sense to you? It's just not how people ride a bicycle at low speeds.
>>
>>1752330
Or let me put it more simply

Why can you not initiate a lean, simply by leaning?
>>
>>1752336
You *can* do it, it's just objectively worse in every way so no one ever actually does unless they're doing dumb shit like riding hands-free. Also it's borderline impossible to recover from any balance problems that way, which is what makes it especially bad advice for people who can't ride at all yet.
>>
>>1752263
>You literally HAVE to countersteer a bicycle.

>>1752350
then you admit you were wrong
>>
>>1752373
Those are not both me.
>>
>>1752374
maybe so but that's what we're tlakin about
>>
can't believe all (you) faggots are arguing about the laws of physics, which are constant here on this god forsaken planet. countersteering happens whether it is calculated and initiated by the rider or not. it just happens BECAUSE IT DOES. that is how wheels turn. did you turn your bike? congratufuckinglations, countersteering occurred whether you like it not.
>>
>>1752400
Apparently
>did you ride your bike in a straight line? congratufuckinglations, countersteering occurred
is also true.
>>
>>1752332
>>1752334
>>1752336
leaning while riding hands free still does the countersteering thing. it's explained in the video like how if you balance a stick in your hand or if you ride a unicycle you move in the opposite direction first to initiate a lean to start moving
>>
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>>1752400
Fuck you, you stupid cunt. You are a piece of fucking shit. Do not tell people what they think and insult them in public. Your can tell me what you fucking think you small-minded piece of crap. But don’t tell me what I think and then insult me in public whin you’re fucking wrong… You got your facts wrong: you got your timing wrong; you got your thinking wrong; and you’re a fucking piece of shit.
You should not live in a world with other nice people. Because I have a feeling you’re just as much of a piece of shit when you go home. I bet your family hates your fucking guts behind your back. I guarantee it, with that kind an attitude. The fact that you can come after me with your fucking imaginary problems, put them in mu head, and them blame them for me, means that your family is probably getting the same treatment. I feel sorry for your husband. I hope your husband is watching, because he’s agreeing with me right; he’s nodding with me. Yes, you are an imaginary, shit stirring. Probably a narcissist, piece of shit. That’s what I think of you.
>>
>>1752423
yes, that's how people normally ride

but you can just fucking lean by leaning

If your stick was sentient and could move it would also just be able to fall forward
>>
>>1752440
it countersteers you're just not conscious of it
>>
>>1752441
i'll go back to my robot question
answer it
>>
>>1752442
see
https://youtu.be/9cNmUNHSBac
>>
>>1752445
no no no no no
answer the fucking question
>>
>>1752447
retard
if you're trackstanding on a unicycle you can't just move forward while maintaining your balance without moving the wheel back first
if you try to lean forward the unicycle will lean back accordingly because newton's third law
when standing on the ground you can fall forward because you have feet you're not balancing on a wheel
>>
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>>1752448
>still refusing to give a straight answer to the question
>>
>>1752452
not my problem
>>
>>1752453
what?
>>
>>1752454
why should i spoonfeed you, it's causing butthurt for you but not for me. what does it matter if someone on the internet disagrees with me. if you're reasonably intelligent you should be able to figure it out with the information that has been presented to you already.
>>
>>1752447
>Why can you not initiate a lean, simply by leaning?
I assume this was the question. Going with the stick analog you are on top of the stick, trying to shift your weight to lean also initiates a counter shift and your center of gravity stays the same. You appear to be leaning but the stick (your bike) leans the other way. Actually you don't want the bike or stick lean, you want to move the center of gravity in relation to the touch point on the bottom (the wheels), so you can move the bottom in relation to the CG. Move the bottom of the stick it leans and falls, move the wheels in one direction the bike leans in the other. There.
>>
>>1752455
refusing to answer questions is a tacit admission that you're wrong
>>
>>1752456
>trying to shift your weight to lean also initiates a counter shift and your center of gravity stays the same. You appear to be leaning but your bike leans the other way.

So if you're just riding along and you lean in one direction, your bike is actually leaning the other way?

Lets take a more extreme example. Lets say you wanted to cycle along, in a straight line, and then fall over to one side. You lean to the side you want to fall. You fall. Does the... bicycle fall the other way? What the FUCK are you saying?
>>
>>1752458
Yes, same thing happens when you pedal out of the saddle and swing left to right. You lean left, bike leans right, no turning.
>>
>>1752433
this pasta isn't even good
>>
>>1752458
see
https://youtu.be/9cNmUNHSBac
it's equivalent to your robot scenario
they're allowed to lean and turn the handlebar in one direction but not countersteer
>>
>>1752458
>Lets say you wanted to cycle along, in a straight line, and then fall over to one side. You lean to the side you want to fall. You fall. Does the... bicycle fall the other way? What the FUCK are you saying?
That is a stupid take. You fall because in real world you need active balancing to stay upright at slow speeds, like juggling the stick on your palm. You stop balancing you will fall to one side. That is different from turning and leaning.
>>
>>1752456
I think you're confusing leaning with turning
turning will shift your weight opposite in a lean
leaning will not shift your weight opposite in a lean
leaning will initiate a turn
but if you're leaning already, and then start turning, your weight being shifted opposite in a turn can just mean you're leaning in the direction of the turn less, not that you're leaning in the opposite direction and so not turning
you still turn, just the act of turning makes you turn less
>>
>>1752462
Also RC motorbikes, they have heavy rear wheels that act as gyro to balance, also have skids on the sides for turning. There you have to actively countersteer to start a turn and ending it back upright.
>>
>>1752464
No. This is first semester college physics also medium level highschool stuff. You need to go back to school.
>>
>>1752462
>they're allowed to lean and turn the handlebar in one direction but not countersteer
what they're doing is attempting to turn by turning the bars, not by leaning
doubly, they fall because
>You fall because in real world you need active balancing to stay upright at slow speeds

>You stop balancing you will fall to one side. That is different from turning and leaning.
what is the difference between falling to one side, and leaning to one side until you fall?
>>
>>1752466
>No
no which part?
>>
>>1752468
if he leaned, he would just fall over to the leaning side, because the front wheel would remain straight. the front wheel doesn't want to turn when it's leaned, it wants to go back straight.
>>
>>1752470
what happens if you lean over to the left
and then you turn the front wheel to the left
your lean lessens, right? In an extreme case you would start to lean past upright to the right.

But isn't it possible to have a scenario where you would remain leaning to the left, just less, and turn left?
>>
>>1752471
yea, that happens when you don't shift your weight to compensate for the tighter turn and increased opposite forces.

and yea, that happens too. it's called normal riding.
>>
>>1752471
>what happens if you lean over to the left
You lean the bike right below you and you only move a little bit to the left. If you actually lean to the left means you leaned against the tracktion or touch point of the wheels and you already initiated a countersteer.
Man I always find it funny when nobrain dropouts try to be smart, especially funny if they get angry when they fail
>>
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Hey, need some advice about retro fitting an already retro frame with even older parts.
Frame is a 1999 Specialized Hardrock FS without forks,
Questions:
>It originally came with front suspension but I want rigid forks for this build and if possible straight ones, something like Kona P2's, any reason why that's a bad idea?
>Should I look for forks with threaded or unthreaded steerer tubes?
>It originally had caliper brakes, can I fit cantilever brakes instead?
>It's an aluminium frame, I want to completely strip it back and polish it up, what would be the best way to preserve the raw polished metal?

Thanks bros.
>>
>>1752499
That will work and to your questions:
1. Realistically threadless is your only practical option for replacement forks
2. Your picture shows a frame with v-brakes, these use the same mounting studs as cantilevers, so you can use them as long as you have or can add provisioning for cable stops.
3. There's not a good way to preserve the shine of bare aluminum forever, you just let it oxidize and polish it every few months/years when you want the full shine back
>>
>>1752500
>V-brakes
Yeah, that's what I meant : )
Thanks for the reply, so I'm guessing I'll be looking at an ahead fork/headset combo for this?
>>
>>1752501
threadless headset and threadless fork go together, yep
>>
>>1752502
Nice one, much obliged.
>>
>>1752500
>There's not a good way to preserve the shine of bare aluminum forever, you just let it oxidize and polish it every few months/years when you want the full shine back
not him, but why not just clearcoat it? a can of Eastwood 2k clear is 30 bucks and that should probably be enough for the frame and fork.
>>
>>1752508
Is clear coat OK on bare metal? I assumed it would need something other thasn that to adhere to, but then I know nothing about such things
>>
>>1752508
there was at least one anon here with a raw/polished alu bike. i seem to remember them complaining of polishing every couple weeks? a hand-applied clear coat probably wouldn't offer the best protection anyway.
>>
>>1752508
What about something like linseed oil?
>>
>>1752511
boiled linseed oil can work. you apply several thin coatings and dry it. too thick and it gets sticky though.
>>
>>1752515
OK, thanks for the help lads, I'll be sure to come back with more questions if i get stuck, and will posy pics in future threads
>>
What's a good anime/manga about cycling?
>>
>>1752518
Kurusawa's MaiPei
>>
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>>1752518
The best cycling anime is without a doubt the two Nasu films (Andalusia and Wataridori). There are also a small handful of cycling anime TV series, but they're not great - Yowamushi Pedal is by far the most popular though.

For cycling-related manga, IMHO the best one is probably Aoba Jitensha-ten. Noririn a close second.
>>
>>1752519
>MaiPei
nothing comes up when I google that
>>
>>1752525
you actually googled that? I do hope you have nothing compromising on your machine anon
>>
>>1752263
You can steer without even having your hands on the bars. Ride down the street no hands and lean from side to side just a bit, and you can steer easily
>>
Honestly fuck this board and everyone arguing about countersteering,, you are all so fucking retarded and i hate you all so much
>>
>>1752544
you jerk your body so that your bike countersteers even with your hands off the bars
>>
>>1752545
you should be aware of countersteering or you won't be a good cyclist
dumbasses think they should just lean but then they won't have a tight enough turning radius like if they need to avoid an obstacle or if they try to take turns at a higher speed
>>
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>>1752545
>>
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I'm gradually learning how to dress for extremely cold temps. Went out for a cruise today in ~15-20f and my base layer soaked through pretty quickly. I was warm enough and comfortable as long as I kept cranking, but from what I have read I should be aiming for a base layer that wicks and stays dry? So does that indicate I need a more breathable midlayer? What do?
>>
>>1752584
Merino wool.
>>
>>1752508
Clear coat helps the shine last, but not indefinitely. Also clear coats tend to turn opaque and go matte, so you lose shine, that cannot be easily buffed back.
>>
>>1752510
not him but 2K clearcoat is supposed to be good just that you're supposed to wear proper protection and have good ventilation. people have literally died just from painting model airplanes and such because of how toxic it is.
>>
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>>1752499
you'll have to find out the suspensions fork crown to axle distance
>unthreaded steerer tubes
1 1/8 inch is the most common size for more recent bikes
but some older bikes have thread less 1 inch steerer tubes
>>
>>1752499
>something like Kona P2's, any reason why that's a bad idea?
because it's a hardrock
It's an ok cromo frame but if you do a custom build it should be as cheaply as possible, usually to clear out the lower end stuff in your parts bin.

spending $100 on a fork for it is stupid. You could buy a nicer frameset for that money. The fork should be used for less than $20 and then it's just what you can find.

Stumpy > Rockhopper > Hardrock
>>
>>1752584
Two things: you might need to switch to a more breathable layer that can wick moisture more effectively, or this could be a sign that you're overdressed for the conditions, in which case there's only so much any breathable layer can accomplish. A good rule of thumb to keep in mind is that if you're warm at the start of a ride (before you start generating extra body heat from exertion), you're overdressed.
>>
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are these pads gone?
>>
>>1752650
There's definitely plenty of material left, but considering that they look to be from the early 1990's the rubber is probably so hard as to be near worthless at this point.
>>
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>>1752654
The shimanos are definitely too hard and the rubber is even cracked but these seem in better condition.
>>
What is the failure rate of tubeless?
>>
>>1752694
what do you classify as a failure? like just sitting there and randomly failing?
>>
>>1752499
If yours is exactly as pictured, you'll need a threadless fork that's suited for 26" and corrected for suspension travel of about 45mm/1.8".
Do some browsing online or ask a bike mechanic that's been in the game a long time and you're sure to find something. Be sure to get one that has canti mounts if that's what you want, then get some good old shimano U-brakes and Kool stop salmon pads.

As for stripping the paint: you'll need aircraft grade paint remover (aerosol ones are enough for a few frame strips and are cheap enough.)
You could sand the frame super smooth and buy new decals to put on and clear lacquer over it, but a smart powdercoat job would be much better in my opinion and would look smart.

I hope it all goes well, the speccy hardrock is a nice bike and you should restore it and hang onto it, as they're only getting rarer.
>>
>>1752695
Sure, the equivalent of a flat.
>>
>>1752694
The failure rate and consequences of road tubeless are not great, for MTB it's not a big issue unless you unseat the bead during a ride.

For road, latex tubes is far, far better and safer than tubeless. for MTB, bring a spare tube and patch kit for if you end up taking your tyre off the hook.
>>
>>1752694
I’ve had one total flat in tubeless in 3 years of serious mtb, and 8 years of casual mtb before that (ghetto stans, sliced up 20” tube-style). That flat was caused by a rock punching through my tire and my sealant hadn’t been checked in a year and was totally dry. If I had sealant, it likely would’ve sealed just fine

I’ve pulled out hundreds of thorns on tubeless and I’ve watched each hole instantly seal with basically zero loss of pressure
The problem is that tubeless setups often slowly leak air over the span of one or more weeks, so pumping and checking my psi is part of my pre-ride routine

Oh, and when I cracked my rim by casing a jump really badly, the rim tape punctured as well and the tire started dumping air out those little speed holes in the rim
>>
Does tubeless make you ride slower?
>>
>>1752694
>>1752718
Do it properly with good quality wheels+tires+sealant and it won't spontaneously explode on you, but how many flats you get is a function of the surface you ride on. Less than tubes for sure, but the tradeoff is more expense and hassle to set it up and maintain.
>>1752720
>don't go tubeless, switch to even thinner tubes
tard
>>1752730
All the marketing shills say it saves you 0.00001w by eliminating friction between the tube and tire.
>>
>>1752694
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66KPtappr-c
>>
>>1752613
cheers.

>>1752615
It's actually an aluminium frame and a proper shitter, bit it's for a special project, I have a pair of P2's laying around but they are threaded, when the frame arrives I'll be able to see if they are usable or not, failing that I'll have to scour the internet.
>>1752716
Thanks anon.
>>
there's probably more mechanical advantage to turning a 22-22 vs a 34-34 just because of the smaller radius of the front cog vs the crank length right?
>>
>>1752952
no the gear ratio is the same
>>
>>1752960
yeah but there is a lever turning the gear
>>
>>1752961
the lever is the same
>>
I want to build a basic MTB from frame.
Lenghening and bleed the brake hoses seems to be quite a hassle. I don't have special tools.
Buy pre-confectioned ones will have too long lines guaranteed.

Wat do?
>>
>>1752969
>11 minute video
>quite a hassle
git gud
>>
>>1752979
>edited videos are real time on shown task
>everyone has or wants nieche tools for rare use
git off ur horse
>>
>>1752962
radius of the cogs is different
>>
what do you make of a bike that has bare inner cables placed right under the downtube
>>
>>1752988
The transmission from crank to wheel is the same
>>
>>1752984
bleeding is part of basic maintenance for hydraulic brakes. if you're going to build a bike from frame you're going to have to buy some tools like for the bottom bracket etc as well (and it's good to be able to service your brottom bracket as well if you don't want to rely on going to a bike shop for maintenance)
>>
>>1752996
also it's not exactly rocket science. it might take a lot more than 11 minutes but it's not like it's an impossible thing. you're just not used to lifting a finger or taking responsibility but you're going to have to grow up at some point or you'll be a loser for the rest of your life. minimum wage workers can figure out and so can you.
>>
>>1752988
Ratio of the cogs is the same.

1 crank = 1 wheel rotation whether you’re 30/30 or 50/50
>>
>>1752996
>tools like for the bottom bracket
I can borrow these, I've done BBs before
I also have a 3D printer
Can I 3D Print something to help with cutting brake hoses and insering the plug connector? Or other cheap and dirty methods?
>>
>>1753000
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7649/how-do-i-cut-hydraulic-brake-hose-without-expensive-tools
>>
>>1752989
It's standard and normal and good
the alternative routing is along the top tube but that's for vintage mud bikes and the curves are worse

Full length internal cables are higher friction so the shifting is worse. It's tolerable with modern teflon lined housing and high end bikes don't even have shift cables anymore. But really, exposed cabling between stops is superior on a regular bike. Less housing, less friction, better shifting.
>>
I have an entry-level carbon bike from 2010 that weighs in at 9.9kg total for an XXL/60cm frame size.

How much do carbon road bikes (that don't cost as much as a car or a motorbike) weigh these days?
>>
>>1753032
~8kg is about the sweet spot for a disc brake bike

this guy's bike is 6.3kg including pedals and bottle cages but it's quite high end
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIHuF6f9ky0

see also
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClakuANFBSjqYEze7w1WTDg/videos
>>
>>1753034
and they mentioned that their bikes are about 7.5kg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NHEuSUiDIM
>>
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>>1752996
But /n/ reliably (and angrily) informed me that akshually disk brakes are less maintenance than rim brakes.
>>
>>1753032
Frame weight is only a small part of the total weight, probably other shit on it is heavier than it needs to be. Off the shelf a 105/ultegra carbon bike probably weighs 19-20 pounds. With some investment to upgrade wheels and other stuff maybe down to 17-18. You won't approach 15 without either spending the better part of $10 grand or gambling on aliexpress parts.
>>
>>1753032
Aluminum bikes average 22lbs.
>>
>>1753154
lol how did you arrive at that figure?
>>
>>1753117
just have to stock up on olives and crimps
>>
>>1753154
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road-bikes/émonda/émonda-alr/émonda-alr-5/p/24166/
>19.92 pounds
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road-bikes/émonda/émonda-sl/émonda-sl-5-disc/p/32560/
>20.18 pounds
oh nononono carbonbros
>>
>>1753032
very little of that weight is the frame
>>
>>1753162
listed weight of 56 cm frame
>>
>>1753186
Frame size doesn't change final weight that much. Maybe 100g difference between a 56 and a 60.
>>
>>1753119
>>1753182
the frame still makes a difference if it's some off-brand bike with outdated chinese carbon
>>
what does front derailer capacity mean?
>>
>>1753280
The capacity between the largest and smallest chainrings
>>
how do you makeup for the lack of eyelets on the fork
>>
>>1753335
You get a new fork with eyelets
>>
is rc120 disc a gravel bike in its base form
>>
>>1753384
There is a gravel variant but I would go with the RC520 instead.
>>
what do you make of a bike brand that doesn't have frame geometry specs on the website
they also give me a feeling of baiting people into buying bikes by using higher end drivetrains but seem to cut costs elsewhere
>>
>>1753531
post a link, tard
>>
>>1753563
https://www.firefoxbikes.com/pirate-3-0/
>>
>>1753576
it's not ideal. look at the top brands like trek, cannondale, merida, giant
>>
>>1753531
>>1753576
I don't think any but the high end brands generally list the full measurement details of their frames. That one is meh but could be a lot worse too.
>>
>>1753576
For the price of that one you could buy three "BAD ATTITUDE"s (and maybe one of the three would be functional)

https://www.firefoxbikes.com/bad-attitude-5-27-5-d/
>>
>>1753598
yeah i thought that name was funny too like it's a bike for preteen punks
>>1753594
polygon does it
anyway how do you think the gravel pirate compares with this hybrid from polygon
https://www.polygonbikes.com/product/urban/path-2
it wins in gear range and useful shit on frame like brazeons and eyelets
>>
>>1753631
>>https://www.polygonbikes.com/product/urban/path-2
>it wins in gear range and useful shit on frame like brazeons and eyelets
As shitheap hybrids go it's not terrible. Advantage of more low-end gears will be canceled out by the fact that it's inherently slower than a road bike (but maybe not slower than a shitty road bike)
>>
>>1753631
just spend that bit of extra money and get a much nicer bike all around
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/fx-3-disc/p/35021/

or get a more down to earth bike with rim brakes etc. the steel fork probably rides less harshly than the alloy fork.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/fx-1/p/32769/
>>
>>1753836
hope you can buy a trek bike with that shilling money man





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