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Projects, classic bikes,

all bikes welcome
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new project
I just bought this for US$140
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I can't find any info on this tubing. It's got a 29.4 seatpost, 1 1/8" threaded steerer, and headtube is stamped 1992
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It's hard to photograph or describe but the headtube and the downtube are both ovals, and in the middle of each tube the oval swaps plane
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XT group. Really nice condition. The cables are so old it didn't shift. I think it hasn't really been ridden for ages.
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XT hubs
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dynamo system made in West Germany
the SKS fender carries the current without a cable, it's like a circuit board. Then internal frame routing.
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lots of cool dumb euro crap on it
bike weighs 14.8 kg with all this
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12.81 kg like this
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I'm not really sure what to do with it. I could probably flip the parts and wheels and frame separately and make some money but that seems like a shame.
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It'll fit 42s so could make a cool gravel bike with some tanwall paselas or something

I want to make it look more friendly and less german so maybe scrape the red decals off and try get some more silver parts and do another colour with it
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i've got a cooler 1 1/8" quill for it and some flat bars.

The wedge is currently stuck in the fork and the headset was loose and the quill bolt was bent so i think someone tried to get it and gave up before. Atleast the stem itself was free.
I think i'll try plugging it up with vinegar, let it sit, then smash it out from below with a piece of pipe or something. I reckon it'd just strip the threads wailing on the quill bolt with a hammer.
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what letters should i scrape off
get a gf into biking, the only obvious upgrade is the seat quick release.
that wedge stuck will take some work to get out, but don't try to brute force it out.
yeah i guess i'm filtering girls by their frame size now
>don't brute force it
i'll soak it first but how else do you suggest ? I can't leave it in, it's just below the threaded part of the fork. There's no room above it for another wedge.
penetrating oil and some love taps from the bottom of the fork
Yeah, this. PB blaster seems to work pretty well, just spray it a few times over the course of an hour or so. A few solid thwacks with a punch and a deadblow hammer should be fine, I wouldn't really worry too much about fucking up the insert itself.
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definitely good potential here. picrel is my newest parts bin abomination
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Need to get some fenders on this thing to get it ready for winter commuting
god damn you anon now i'm looking at flexistems on ebay
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Are 80's mountain bikes allowed in here?
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current project
90s mtbs are 82-97
>marin branded cheng shin
lol wut
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My main bike, a GT Talera. I replaced the old shimano index shifters and brake levers with NOS shimano friction thumb shifters, the cantilever brakes with v-brakes and tektro eclipse levers and installed some FOOKERS. Swapped the original GT supersoft saddle with a more firm Vetta SP Tri-shock from ~95 that I found for free at a mission. It's really pleasant to ride and all the work I've put into it makes it feel even better.
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i love this thread theme, please post lots of bikes

pic related is what i'm currently dreaming of
Marin used cheng shin to produce their tyres in the early 90s, they weren't quite as dogshit tier back then
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All the bike you'll ever need
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i like the colours on this one
is it high end? i don't know how to differenciate high end from low end

how are the slick tires in the forest?
apparently none of its Katalogs or supporting documents survived the test of time
priddy light weight for being plain gauge tubing
the rust off those rare brake pivots lmao
A King
A Rekk
Win A Rekk
U King
U Rekk
>high end from low end
for middle end of things there is at least
Campalargo style rear derailleur mount and all steel pivot on the FD
removable chain rings

the lowest end tends towards claw mount RD and FD with Delrin or GFRP inserts as part of the FD pivots
its rare to see on modern bikes but a single piece crank is not desirable as they tend to be weak and heavy
while 51.5x68 bottom bracket has a very durable bearing a BB shell is among the heaviest tubes by bulk on a bike frame

sometimes seat-posts are a give away
the type of saddle rail clamp as seen on purple Peugeot does not have a fine adjustment of angle, and is normally best kept level or one click noise down with most saddles
I dont care much about stems, as its better to have the right size for you
but some are worth allot of money and its easy to spot them

maybe not a big deal but box section wheel rims are a bit old fashioned, the ones on that Peugeot are wide and strong
another common wheel rim profile is seen in >>1728374 single wall and bends easy but still a decent wheel rim
the pentagonal type rims seen in >>1728306 are also farely good
the slightly domed wheel rims in >>1728382 are likely stronger, more deeply domed rims than this are general found to be double walled
besides all this high quality quick release skewers are not normally seen pared with low quality wheels
change R to N then you can be a
winona rider
dude, those bar-ends tho
do you take it surfing?
it's a decent mid range from 1988, which means it's a very good bike by todays standards. Reynolds tubing, top end Sachs group, Sachs were/are more well known for performance road tech so this was their take on making high performance components that were built to take punishment, so yeah, a fairly light (12.5kg) and extremely robust bike that handles really nicely on pretty much any surface. Not a fashionable brand but they are becoming more sought after primarily because of the distinctive colourways and the fact that they were fairly well built. Nowhere near the competition tier bikes for performance but definitely more comfortable and durable, a great all year round commuter.
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Nope, sold it, the new owner lives in London so it's probably been stolen by now.
the autism of this composition and editing
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got the wedge out

now, what the hell is this
solder ??
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>stem 79 g
367 g - 288 g
>bars 110 g
254 - 144
>pedals 104 g
446- 350
>saddle 301 g
619 - 318

can easily weight weenie 600 grams off
now 12.2 kg

>priddy light weight for being plain gauge tubing
Yeah it's not bad. Some of the tubes sound butted though. The fork only weighs 870g. I think because it's a trekking bike the rear triangle is really overbuilt.
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these XT stis are chunky
they barely fit on a 560mm bar

doesn't look great
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they don't fit on this
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thoughts on this bar ?
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there are these 150mm 1 1/8 stems on ebay too for not that much because it's a dumb size.

is a super long stem with a backsweep bar cool passive suspension? Or just dumb and sketchy?
those are definetily not one size fits all, if wrong size it would hurt the wrists
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> upgraded to friction shifting
They're not showing the hideous and lame plastic cap over the top of the hex bolt head.
t. bought one and threw it away
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this instead.
depends on what specifically you're using. most of my bikes have some combo of longish stem and swept bar. klunker bar and massive titec stem on my commuter are solid af without being uncomfortable. surly open bar on a moto ace stem has noticeable damping without being noodly. nitto albatross on long af vintage titanium stem was disgusting pliable and honestly frightening to ride. i think any bar with sweep much more than 45 degrees or with very aggressive grip-to-stem distances can feel too wiggly and also don't offer the most control in the primary hand position.
i'm as big a fan of sweep and rise as any unracer, but i think the full upright position forced by bars like the ones you have on now is a stupid meme. in my personal experience, it seems best to keep the grip area at or ahead of the steer tube, whatever bar and stem combo you use to arrive there.
What slicks would be good for commuting on? Pasela, Marathon?
schwalbe big apple, kojak. continental contact speed.
I don't understand your question but if you're trying to get the dust cap off you can usually make a passable pin-spanner out of a coat hanger. grab the angle and bend down the rest of the hanger with your other hand. then cut the wire a few mm from the bend on both arms
I have a couple of pin spanners
look inside the chainring bolt heads

i think someone has filled them with solder to stop chainring thieves lol
haha what
looks like putty
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>in my personal experience, it seems best to keep the grip area at or ahead of the steer tube, whatever bar and stem combo you use to arrive there.
this is wise and i think i've been learning this and trying to ignore it

thanks man

how heavy are these chromed wald bars ? They look nice but shipping from US is not cheap.
i ordered some of these a while ago
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>Pasela, Marathon
marathons will last longer, maybe roll a bit faster. Paselas are much comfier and look better.
This is what a folding 1.5" pasela looks like on a old velocity 26" mtb rim. It's ~38mm. Relatively good size for commuting imo.
what really doesn't make sense is it seems like a chainring theft protection thing but the wheels and saddle still have quick releases
marathon almotion and supreme are good for commuting. standard marathons are heavy as fuck and not so good. i would choose pasela ever day over standard marathons
looking at tires is such a headfuck
it seems like everything which is conceivably good has a bunch of people who had shitty experiences with it

Thanks for the advice. End up getting Conti Contact Speed since I'm already running Winter Contacts now.
>it seems like everything which is conceivably good has a bunch of people who had shitty experiences with it
That's usually how it goes for everything. It's tough being autistic in a chaotic world.
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Was thinking of picking this up. 130€. What do you think?
If the wheels are true and smooth with relatively even spoke tension, it's an ok deal.

Also, headset no play, smooth
lift the chain off the inner cog and see how smooth the BB is, if there's play in it.
Does it shift/brake smoothly? (ie, does it need recabling)
Tread on the front tire looks very good
I'd also really closely scrutinise the chainrings. Doing a new chain and a cassette is just a good way of freshining up the bike relatively cheaply, and it probably rides fine without them, but if the chainrings are badly worn that's a bit harder/pricier to fix.

i'd put 10 on the rack and lock each if included.

If it's a project and poor condition i'd be looking to haggle down to 100 or 80.

I love the univega graphics. I'm meh on that paint job. It's ok but i don't like it much. 'Sport' for the model and in bicycle terms means 'low end' but like low end of a good thing. Would look 10x better with some tanwall maxxis dth and fookers.
probably heavier than anything similar in alu. definitely not worth it if you aren't u.s. adjacent. those uno bars look good. also make sure you confirm the grip area is long enough whenever you buy cruiser/city style bars. once or twice i've ended up with thumbies pushed right up on the curve, brake levers pushed right up on the shifters, and still didn't have enough room to grip properly.
lol true you can kinda see it in the profile pic
The recessed allen on quill stems is annoying when they're siezed.
that top cap is replaced easy enough, like, just stick a cork in it or something
Has anyone put path racer type of handlebars + riser stem on a 90s memetb? I wonder how it will work and handle with mtb brakes and one shifter.
>how heavy
probably the same thing as my Sunlite northroads bar. it's a great bar but noticably heavy compared to a similar bar in aluminum. but super light compared with, say, a gold ingot.
if you aren't a weight weenie it's a great deal for the Sunlite, only $20on azamon
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>>1729054 (me)
Something like this.
I want to get a steel mtb, but I'm unsure about the sizing. I'm like 5 feet tall or so and charts tell me I would need something like a fucking 14 inch frame? Can I not get away with something larger with cockpit changes?
Also, what should I look for as far as components go? I'm so unfamiliar with 80s-90s mtb groupsets.
ground to top tube distance differs wildly between old 'mtbs' of the same size. Easy enough to ask people to measure that and compare with yours.
as long as you can stand over the top bar without smashing your genitals you can make it fit you for reach with backswept bars. It just might be gratuitously heavy, and stiff (larger bikes use stiffer tubing), and have wierd handling, which suits cruising more than fast trail riding.
>you can make it fit you for reach with backswept bars. It just might be gratuitously heavy, and stiff (larger bikes use stiffer tubing), and have wierd handling, which suits cruising more than fast trail riding.
This would be less than ideal since I do want something that's competent and comfortable enough to take on the trails by me. Should I just schedule some meetups with people on my classifieds? I feel like that would be a fairly obtuse, yet only really precise way of getting something that I'm comfortable riding.
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If you find a decent <16.5" bike you like the look of then go try it out for size to get your head around? That's fine as long as you're interested in buying it. I wouldn't go larger than that, and you don't need to either.

For 91 say, Marin's smaller size for their highest spec bikes was 15.5". Specialized 16.5", and only sized lower on the lower end models. But those both might be able to fit you well.
Relatively small bikes exist.

Really, at 5', ideally what you want for a classic mtb is a Terry mtb or hybrid like this:


It's an interesting brand that pioneered good bikes for smol. I would consider asking that craigslist seller what their local shop is, and call the shop for a qoute on sending that bike to you. It's a very nice example of a classic mtb that's actually smol. And at a very good price for the restored condition. Even if you pay $100 shipping it's worth it imo.
The internal brazing on Peugeots from that era always looks slick.
nice I hope they're good. never heard of them desu
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ayyyy flexstem bros

you mean like picrel? people do this all the time.
Yeah I'll just have to keep an eye on my classifieds, stuff is always popping up but everything generally seems to be around the 18-20" mark.
I don't see why I couldn't ride something around the 16" mark since my most comfortable road bike is a 48cm with an 80mm stem. Just on speculation alone I would imagine a frame two inches smaller with a short stem would be a far more upright ride.
I have heard of terry before, actually. But I have not found anything locally. This actually looks really similar in size to a steel dpt store mtb I had about 7 years ago, which was pretty much perfect for my height. I would ask them like you say, but ~$200ish is really about the top of my budget.

I may just try and check local ebay/cl for a frame and a fork and go from there.
people on this board have the weirdest fucking bikes.

What the fuck is this frankenstein thing
where is (your) bike?
Frankenbikes are fun, Anon.
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My project bike, upgraded the tires to gravity casings so far, and a Vittoria air liner insert in the rear.
Chromag makes good steel mtbs the 2021 stylus is pretty nice. I have seen a few in person. You can also get a steel Kona honzo.
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going to add a wire basket to the front once I find one that doesn't cost a million moneys
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get the sunlite goldtec front rack that mounts to the brake posts, should be about $20usd or equivalent. baskets can be had from any home goods store, no need to import a wald basket or something if you're not in the US. if you can't find that, see if the convenient store has any of the plastic soda/bottled drink delivery trays around. see the front of my bike if you don't know what i mean.
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yup I already have a rack, now I need to get a basket but random wire baskets from home stores I've checked are always 40€+ somehow. My intention is to zip tie the basket to the rack
oh, that's fucked. sounds like it would be more than paying for shipping from wald or similar.
find cheaper home stores lol
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>random wire baskets from home stores I've checked are always 40€+ somehow

yeah they're like $40 NZ at live love laugh sign, wool throws, type stores but $5 at Daiso Japan store or $10 at hardware store or the warehouse. It's the same thing. You will have somewhere that sells these cheap you just need to find it. They aren't expensive to make. They exist.

these baskets all NZ $5 which is 3 euro
do these come with the double threaded bolts to mount em like the nitto rack?
they don't. just the hardware to attach the brake post and fork crown brackets to the rack itself. no bolt to actually go through the fork crown, no replacement brake bolt. fwiw i've put these on a lot of different bikes and never had an issue mounting with the brake bolts already on the bike.
definitely doesn't have those. how would you use them?
one side of the bolt goes on to hold the brake arms, and you can set the bolt as tight as it will go before they bind, like normal.
then it's a spanner flat bit in the middle, then you put the rack on, and hold that on with a nylock nut. That means you can tighten the rack actually tight and remove it a bit easier.

It's a better system but I can see not necessary at all.
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still got to change cranks and chainrings, rear derailleur, a set of brifters and all the little bits to make the callipers fit. but I've only had it a day.
brake and shift cables can get in the way
make sure to use a bracket with plenty of clearance
yellow is a real nice colour for bikes
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always waiting for more parts

just always order more parts so you're also always having parts arraive
I mean I could fit all these parts today and just have no front brake. that's safe right?
You could fit all the parts today and only need to mount the front brake when it arrives. You don't have to do all the building in one go.
also you always end up missing something you didn't think about or didn't expect anyway
order in bulk to save shipping cost
I have to use the bike for work
they came from different places anon
ok yeah this is true lol
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since many 90s mtb were posted in the Vintage bike thread, i post this here.

just picked up a NSU Sport Bicycle from 1961 for 80€.
Haven't taken any pictures jet but pic is the same bike i have.

Its really well build, thin tubing lugged, chrome still in great condition, paint great for its age love the hand painted decals. Dynamo and Lights still work.
its not that heavy either. Wheels have "quick release" wing nuts. Mine has a single speed rear hub but it was also available in 3 speed. bottom bracket and hub have oil nipples since the chain is well oiled the bearings should be in good condition either.

its not worth as much as the pre war models but its not going to depreciate in value either i think i am going to put a nice basket or crate on the back and use it as around town bike for dry days in the summer.
next spring im going to give it a little overhaul clean and oil everything, spray the tubes with some Fluidfilm then i am going to post some pictures.

NSU was once Germany's biggest bike producer, and made bikes from 1886-1963, later they focused on making cars and merged with Auto union, now there known as Audi. So this was made in the same plant that is now building Audi A5-A8. After 63 the brand was sold to ZEG and slapped on various Chinese BSO Bikes.
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rocking this badboy
Great score in well kept condition, will make an excellent townie ride.
if thats your bike it look sick
annoyingly requiring a massive fuckoff frame with the seat up high makes geometry look a bit off so my bikes never look that aesthetic
i did used to have a flexstem on my cockhopper but since i use it for commuting i took it off to make it stand out less
Does having your shifters at this angle feel more ergonomic?
Who needs quick releases if you have big wingnuts
lol nice
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What am I looking at on the back there? Is that... a chain tensioner?
>not having caps on your valve stems
An otherwise perfect bike, RUINED! REEEEEEEE
nah its not, just came up when i googled terry
that smol person was lucky they could have bought it but ~300 i guess is more than nothing moneys

i always try to shill smol onto classic terrys because they're somewhat common and really cool bikes
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How much do you guys typically pay to redo a bike?

I just ordered a bunch of stuff for the stepthrough above
price for 1 bike:

KMC X8 chain $18
Lifeline gear cable $7
Lifeline brake cable $7
2x G-One Tires $80
2x Conti tubes $17
4x Kool Stop pads $34
Ali pedals $15
Ali bar $25
Oury grips $18

So it's ~$220 to redo.
Not including price paid for lube, grease, ball bearings, tools etc

I paid $140 for the bike.

$360 US total.

I could have done it for WAY less (or way more) but this is I think the good medium price before you just start wasting money. More on cables might have made sense but iunno. I think I could sell it quite easily for $300-400 but probably not at a profit.

pic unrel just another cool mixte
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I try to spend less than $1000 and not do any work myself
What's wrong with Schrader?
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some people call me the space cowboy
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went to buy a 6800 silver ultegra hub 32 spoke wheel, true, smooth for $14

ended up going through the guys shed for 30 mins and got all this plus the wheel for 70

2x light cromo rail saddles, specialized woman gel, and charge pink girls, former new
6800 ultegra front and rear mechs
105 front mech
105 5800 brakes
noname dual pivots
compact crank
2x 28mm conti 4 seasons with ok tread and threads coming off the sidewalls that i'm not sure if is sketchy or not.
a bunch of nipples, a homemade nipple driver tool and a book on wheel building lol

I got parts fever. I need none of this. I don't even need the wheel.
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does anyone know how these cranks work?
I think it has a self extracting collar missing, that the bolt normally pushes against when you unthread it, that pushes the crank arm off the spline.

But how are you supposed to set preload on this system? I had something like this before and never understood it.
I have a complete 5510 105 groupset including brifters if you want it
Cut the tube, you don't want to impale yourself
are you a fellow space cowboy?
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why make this post without a pic of your own bike? fucking faggot
so many rude posts here lately wtf
so much willful ignorance here lately wtf.
are you hilarious saddle angle aerobars grill?
what the fuck is wrong with you stalkers
lmfao. you stick out like a glowie.
constant rude posts don't make you a man
posts like yours out yourself as a cunt.
>being polite makes you a cunt
what a sad little world you live in
you might be more comfortable here
cry more nobike. I hope one day you can smile
holy shit you're retarded. the bike on which you couldn't identify a simple part is mine. go level your saddle lil bitch
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I wish I had a pipe cutter. I feel like it really ruins the effect of flash parts when you have stuff like that long stem
hue I am not the anon who thought you had a chain tensioner. maybe I don't glow as much as you think. embarrassing.
copepost 101
uh oh
it can photoshop a screencap, shocking.
wew settle down
i posted a lot of pics of it at the start of the thread
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it sits really nice on that rigid fork though

pipe cutter works but the correct tool is a hacksaw and guide
you can bodge the guide by just clamping 2 hose clamps on either side of the cut, and making sure the fork is supported easily and preferably clamped down or held by someone else while you focus on cutting straight.
totally agree honestly what is the jannie for if not to delete these pointless content free insult posts that litter the board. if you're posting something worthwhile you can be as rude as you want but if your post is "wow I hate your post you suck" then it is really only reflecting on you and is spam
better start reporting posts like a good little girl.
shitposting is fairly innocuous really
it's a choice to engage and bicker over it. you don't need it to be deleted to not do that.
Hey thanks buddy. You'd be surprised what a cunt it was to find a fork properly suspension corrected for the minuscule travel I had on my old fork and my little 27.5" wheels. Feels much springier than the locked out suspension fork. Much more pronounced than I expected. I was going to use a pipe cutter because I'll be working on it with a file anyway so it doesn't matter if the cut is a bit rough as long as it's straight.
yeah pipe cutter > hose clamps just a suggestion if you cbf buying a pipe cutter

nice that it makes a difference
it's probably around 1kg lighter too right
I think its a little over 1kg but close enough. The old fork is a Suntour XCM 30. The new one is a Salsa Firestarter. Now to purchase all the cages and such
It's 1490 grams lighter
you need one of those 80s bmx pads for the toptube to wrap your spacer stack lol
Can I mount 650B wheels onto 26" rigid mtb? Only thing I need to worry about is finding suitable brakes, right? Will it improve speed and/or comfort compared to stock 26" wheels?
I have done it before, the speed and comfort is up to the tires rather than the wheels (there are more good 650b slicks than in 26"), and you're gonna need V-brakes because they have more vertical adjustability and most cantis will have the pads too low for the larger rim.
Also about overall wheel size, a 650bx42mm is about a 26x2.1" and a 32mm is about a 1.75" so it won't really alter the geometry or BB height if you stick to that range.

Unless you already have the wheels knocking about like I did it's not really worth it, there are already a handful of supple fast slicks/semi-slicks in 26" like the DTH, a bunch of Schwalbes, gravelkings, etc., and 650b stuff generally has a gravel hipster tax of sorts compared to 26" and 700c. But if you do there are some nice inexpensive ones on Planet-X, they sell the Panaracer-Rivendell tires for far less than Grant did.
Okay, then please advise. Currently I'm rocking 26x1.9 kendas from a better vanished times, what model and size should I switch them for more comfort and/or speed?
>a handful of supple fast slicks/semi-slicks in 26" like the DTH, a bunch of Schwalbes, gravelkings,
Oh sorry, disregard that, guess I'm too druk on cheap wine. Well, gravelkings it is, I think.
2.1 maxxis DTH tanwall folders

for sure
extremely based tire

or 1.75 paselas if you mostly ride on streets
dth has no puncture protection. schwalbe big apple is where its at for streets
Rigid MTB turned commuting cruiser is peak bike
big apple is a great tire but he said speed and comfort
dth will be speedier and comfier.

'for streets' is meaningless. All weather high mile commuting, flat tire fucks your day up? Ok. Going for fun rides when you have free time in the sun? Different. Both can be 'streets'.
lol okay? i don't want flats on my commute or my fun ride. big apple is plenty supple with much thinner sidewalls than expected. i get all the speed and comfort i need. dth is discontinued it lmao.
I don't see why you feel the need to say one similar tire is better than another just because you have it, and have never ridden the other, and chose that arbitrary point for being tough enough. You could still get a puncture and you could take your 'i never want a puncture' logic much further.
i don't see why (you) feel the need to say one similar tire is better than the other just because (you) have it. keep coping and recommending a discontinued, puncture prone tire just because (you) got memed into buying it.
it's not better it's just faster and comfier.

>recently discontinued
all i'm reading is might be on sale
I bought a mains power grinder with a grinding disc, an additional cutting disc and some wet and dry emery cloth for 25 dollars all up and just cut and chamfered with the grinder then used the emery cloth to smooth all the edges out a bit. came out beaut.
how'd you align the cut? Just by eye/hand? lol
>>recently discontinued
>all i'm reading is might be on sale
all I'm reading is 100 euros per tyre on ebay.

I don't think they are discontinued anyways. They are immensely popular and I've never seen them on sale as the stock sells out quick, not much cool tanwall 26 tyres around. I doubt they are any faster than other semi slick tyres.
If it's lighter it's faster
If it's not lighter it's not more fragile

simple as

you choose which one it is
Never thought dth were that light. I think billy bonkers should be noticeably lighter and cheaper. Speedking or rene herse for weight weenies.
Well then if you don't think they're that light and you think they're expensive then I don't know why you think they're too fragile to run? Doesn't make sense.
dth was developed for BMX racing at the olympics in 2008
it's a high performance tire.
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I already had the fork fitted with that ridiculous spacer stack so I removed the top cap and most of the spacers down to the height I wanted (a little above the stem so I had wiggle room) and then used a screwdriver to score the mark around the steerer against a spacer. once the mark was there, cutting and chamfering is very easy as is the clean up. this is before I did the chamfer and clean.
>simple as
ah, it's retarded.
what 8 speed chain is good?
KMC X8 or X8-93
there's a gold one too which is pimp
not the Z8, that's the cheap one.
what about wippermann connex ?

they only make chains, for industrial stuff so i guess they got their processes right.
lately I'm trying to buy more made in Germany.
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>looks like putty
You were right. It's something like that. I stuck a soldering iron in and it kinda melted like plastic does.

This is gonna be an absolute cunt to get out
yeah i had one on campag record once. seemed preddy good. A bit loud though.
Just ordered 25.4mm carbon flatbar for my memetb. I'm a bit afraid the diameter for the shifters will be wrong but I think I'll jury-rig something.
what're you worried about? grip size for mtb shifters is basically all 22.2 and road bars are all 23.8
it's been extremely standardized for basically ever

>25.4 aliexpress carbon
wew lol
how light are they?
Seller claims 140gr, I will weigh it myself when it arrives.
>grip size for mtb shifters is basically all 22.2 and road bars are all 23.8
Thanks, that's the info I was looking for. My bike is from 1990 so I wasn't sure it corresponded to modern standards.
yeah dude grip size is like pedals
it's just not a compatibility issue post true vintage bikes (pre 70s)
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Looks like some kind of plug. Good news is I can see the hex head inside that plastic, so they're removable.

Maybe try putting a small Allen wrench in from the back side, through the hole in the fastener, to push whatever that plug is out the front?
>in from the back side
why didn't i think of this

>I can see the hex head inside that plastic, so they're removable.
well yeah, it's an XT crank
love this build
the paint is gorgeous and the setup is very sensible
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god those chainstay u-brakes are so fucking stupid
WHY did they do that

the roller cam in the front is sick though
the limp dick stem is absolutely hideous too
err. really?
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Not really a "project" but just slapped a new seatpost, bars and grips on this 91? Diamondback Apex. Just waiting on pedals. She's gonna be my winter bike.
>QR seatpost
>"broken" fork
>drop bars are high as fuck
i don't think so chief
Is that yours? And the Cunningham too?

Steve Potts was a master and that bike has about £5000k of components alone, I hate to think what the frame, forks and goose neck stem would go for, an actual unicorn.
>drop bars are high as fuck
Go back to sleep retard, dirt drops are meant to be high, it's not for going fast on asphalt, it's for going fast down rubble and tree root strewn mountainsides.
Love DB's from that era, perfect as winter riders, durable as fuck but still light enough to be a blast, among the best of the mid-top end consumer bikes from that time in my opinion, had an Ascent EX and loved it, still regret selling it desu.
They really are great, and like you said very durable. I feel like if I took my Stumpjumper out this winter it wouldn't manage as well as this one would. I'd love to find an Ascent in my size some day, hard to come by where I'm at though.
what tyres have you got on there?
Both are Panaracer Smokes, these have been on there since it was purchased new and admittedly I'm not a huge fan. I've got WTB Velociraptor comps on the way to replace them
They look in great shape for their age, you should be able to get a decent price on fleabay if they are as good as they look. WTB's are superior though, of course.
I'm going to assume previous owner filled the bolt holes with hot glue or etc to prevent it being stripped while it was locked up.
if you find ball bearings in the glue, then that's exactly what it is.
eh, the drop section is below the saddle and the tops are parallel. I thought that's sort of what you want for MTB drops.

that fucking stem is so goddamn ugly, though.
>"broken" fork
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recent CL find. the seller bought it to ride around the base when he was stationed in Korea. it's absolutely cherry, he barely rode it. the decal got scratched on the way home, though.

unfortunately, it has exage and 200cx stuff on it. the crank is riveted rings but I'll ride them until they wear out. but these shifters are fucking garbage. the brakes are flexy but when I pull the levers it stops the bike so eh. been procrastinating on stripping the cables/housings, flushing and lubing the shift/brake levers and setting it back up. it needs doing before I can really ride it, so maybe they'll work passably after that but very interested in cheap shifter solutions for 3x7. Last mtb had LX and it was dope.

on the plus side: miyata triple butted lugged steel in my rare size in perfect condition. came with the manual and better, the shimano set-up manuals for the brakes and derailleurs.
This dude gotta be at least 9 feet tall
haha I'm 6'3", but the frame looks bigger because -- even though it's a 1990 model -- it has a sloping top tube. weird. there's probably a fair deal of lens distortion, too. I took it really close to the bike
a fork that doesn't follow the line of the steering tube and then bends, ugly as sin.

thanks m8, went with the X8.
now i got rid of the last shitty part of the drivetrain the IG51 i had was kind of great dishonor coming from Japan.
Nice find m8. How much did you pay for that?
read em and weep, boys.

I'm guessing the picture he used filtered everyone before I checked it out
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>very interested in cheap shifter solutions for 3x7
If you can find deore or XT thumbies used, those are the best by far.

these, or, this styles atleast (maybe a different listing), are an ok cheap friction alternative
this for indexing
these are the cheapest new production high quality thumbies you can buy (dia compe, paul, vo, all do more expensive ones), which you'd have to run in friction mode being 7 spd
heres a slightly left field idea. These are reasonable quality stem shifters. Indexed 7 spd. Put them on your bars. Maybe with a shim. Being stem not DT shifters they have a cable stop. Maybe even remove one lever and find a seperate clamp for it.
make sure you overhaul the hubs, put fresh grease in there and new balls if they're dull or pitted at all.

bike that old, practically unridden, will have mint bearings but dried out grease.
>but these shifters are fucking garbage.
its hard to get rapid fire shifters working again, compared to shift triggers at least

>stripping the cables/housings
in the mean time apply a little oil to the ends of the cable housings,
surface tension along with cable movement is enough to lubricate the first and last inch of cable without having to take anything apart.
check spiral wound cable housings for any kinks or stiffness by gently flexing them, your bike likely does not have this problem

>flushing and lubing the shift/brake levers
a small flat screw driver can be used to wiggle the pawls about and clear up their pivots,
also good for poking out grime that builds up in the valley of the ratchet wheels,

>the brakes
the full metal versions of exage brakes are briddy good, eg BR-M450 and BR-M454 (same shape as Deore LX BR-M550)
even the partly plastic ones like BR-M350 work surprisingly well with 3 or 4 finger brake levers

>cheap shifter solutions for 3x7
I like Shimano SL-TY37 the detents are light and have a nice snap to them
Shimano SL-TZ20 are a common type with a slightly heavy notchy action, not great not terrible

>Last mtb had LX and it was dope
ashame those are more or less collectors items now, and that the manuals say not to take them apart
something arcane here that Ive yet to really mess around with
but some rapid-fire shifters use the same mounting plate as used on the older Deore and XT thumb shifters (all be it upside down)
this style of mount is also present on other thumb shifters
when I got all the way the fuck up to Acworth and I saw that it had exage that wouldn't shift right, I still couldn't bring myself to haggle.

man, you really came through but I hesitate to tell you that I was looking for underbar style; I'm not clear on the difference between rapifire and triggers, but like that.. sorry. also, my definition of cheap is not as strict as your prices, I can spend a little more. I found a set of chinkshit based on probably an expired shimano patent for only $12 on azamon that I think I'm going to roll the dice on. 2 day shipping and all.

good looking out. I've ridden it around the block and they were smooth, I probably wouldn't have fucked with it but you made the right call

>its hard to get rapid fire shifters working again, compared to shift triggers
can I get a qrd on the difference between them? I thought the terms were interchangeable
>a small flat screw driver can be used
I see what you mean, there's a video of this on my exact model I watched after I read your reply, it can be a real bear of a job
>partly plastic ones like BR-M350
mine are BR M201, part metal part plastic. seem cheap but they stop the bike so I'm good, I think

>I like Shimano SL-TY37
I'm gonna try some cheap chinkshit trigger/rapifire joints as I said, but if they aspolde, any recs for tried and true of that style?

thanks everyone for the great input
>they were smooth
the real test isnt spinning them on the bike, its turning them holding the axle in your fingers with the wheel out
if -that- is smooth they don't need servicing. For a wheel to not be smooth in the frame probably means the bearings are not just requiring grease but damaged/pitted.

this autistic level of bearing care can be ignored but on the other hand, that's why almost all cheap wheels have shot bearings and if you are vaguely dilligent about them you can have smooth rolling past the life of the rims and smooth rolling hubs imo is noticeable.
>can I get a qrd on the difference between them? I thought the terms were interchangeable
My bad, they are all shift triggers due to the prefix Being ST
it an force of habit of mine to call the newer ones as shift triggers because the marketing for "rapid fire" became less overt over time

older RapidFire levers have the cable tension release actuated by the thumb (ST-M090 (1990)
slightly newer RapidFire + levers have the tension release actuated by the index finger (ST-M900 (1992)
1996 brings RapidFire SL Trigger shifters, a major improvement, but still slightly fragile

the most reliable and easy to fix type I have seen are ST-EF20
ST EF-29 (EZ-FIRE) is also very good mechanically, but its viewing window thing is not uv stable and goes yellow and cracks over time letting water in
modern cheepo ST are more like the EF-29 but the action is not so smooth and the surfaces less well finished, personal preference

a problem I have run into is that many newer ST are for V brake or if they are a cantilever version only have 2 or 2.5 finger length
the 3 and 4 finger ST levers are slightly less common, and the lever length is not implicit in their product code more of a foot note in most documents
>BR M201
low profile type best paired with 3 finger lever, not really a favourite geometry of mine, I've broken a few straddle wires and hand levers of this kind of brake
medium profile cantilevers are for sure a nicer experience, I read in some old MTB magazines that 4 finger levers are used to "reduce hand fatigue on long decent"
but shorter hand levers are fine if you have rest of the brakes set up perfectly

>any recs for tried and true of that style?
I cant really recommend anything in the Rapid Fire or Rapid Fire + range, hard to find in good condition
and their Rachet and Pawl mechanism is very compact on old such old models (same problem as most Brifters iirc)
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here's my new build. it's a long haul trucker, 10 speed 44x11-34 with another iteration of my "suicide" or jockey shifter idea. kinda wanted a long/low land yacht type bike for winter season. after riding it as is this week, i've decided to switch out the nitto and smol basket for a soma lucas rack and large basket. probably going replace the altus derailleur with something that can be indexed for 10 speed. friction works fine for now but its easy to overshoot the shift.
Man, imagine all the red lights and stop signs you could cruise through on that bad boy.
so hard to find a threadless 1" fork for a 26er with canti bosses. It's literally all I need to finally complete my build
Sweet shifter idea and nice build. Mind if I save the picture?
Just finished restoring a 90s GT mountain bike. Replaced practically everything but the wheels with low/middle tier Shimano part. Costs me about $200 and I picked up the bike for $40 at a thrift store. It really depends on what tier parts you use and if you are buying new or have an existing parts bin.
no. this is an nft. saving it is theft.
what is this shifter and why? Is it pleasant to use?
because mtbs went to 1 1/8" before they went to threadless.
I have 2 mtb/trekking bikes with 1 1/8" and quill stems. 25.4 quills (22.2 is the norm) are actually pretty common.

road was the other way around. 1" threadless exists more for road and you won't find 1 1/8" threaded road forks.

Just suck it up and use a quill stem. Quills stems are cool. Especially if you have a canti brake setup, and have one with a cable roller, or cable stop. Threadless stems with those are very very rare.
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really nice build
how do you like those kool stop mtb pads? I tried setting some up on a neighbors beater recently and found them like, too strong, and grabby, and it was making her fork chatter worse, even with toe.
whereas I have them on my marin that I actually ride trails on and when they're a bit muddy/wet or on a really steep offroad hill they go from being a bit unpleasant to great and reliable.
As opposed to most rim brake pads that go from being nice to scary in those conditions.

it got me thinking the kool stop mtb pads, especially salmon or dual ones, are overkill for beaters, and that thinline or supra or even road pads might be better, even on v-brakes, because they're all smaller, and also, maybe just black or the other regular colors.
In that case, may I screenshot it please?
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new aliexpress cranks with used raceface NW chainring

this bike was supposed to not cost anything but oh well
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le bicycle

cruising through all red lights while not usurping ped ROW like a good boi

ty. as said, it is an nft but you may save and steal it

the idea is based on a jockey shifter (sometimes called suicide shifter) from motorcycles. this is a microshift 10 speed dt shifter with a japanese-style knife handle sleeved over it. just so happens that the fit was almost perfect and it looks like a real, purchased product. it's pretty based desu - feels cool af to reach for the lever and make the shift. definitely something for a chill bike though, wouldn't want it for harder, faster riding or if missing a shift could really fuck me up.

ty! and i have the dual compound pads on 4 of my bikes - 1 is for dirt/gravel/allroad, the others see urban mixed use with a decent amount of artificial dirt.
i've had the strength/grab/shudder issue a few times in the past:
-pads too flat, not enough toe
-vertical angle off - make the bottom of the pad contact just before the rest of it
-brake track dirty, worn, or otherwise not quite right
-rim too narrow/brake arms moving past peak force angle to make pad contact (shudder)
-brakes arms/springs old and not acting right
-sometimes they need to be bedded in to feel right, but check everything else first

i think dual compound is probably overkill for a beater/commute/road-only type bike
Just got this thing on the road again. Threw in a new bottom bracket, crank, chain, and rear derailleur. Tossed out the front derailleur and went with 7 speeds.
damn that's a short ass reach
Yeah, I felt that on my test ride. Going to adjust the seat and if that’s not enough, I’ll need an angled seat post.
or a more sane stem
I like it but those cranks will look a lot better once they’re scuffed and worn a bit more.
seat is all the way forward in pic
and the chain is a bit short, P pivot spring wears out slightly more quickly
its a pretty dank steam desu
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24-32-38 is such a useless meme chainring combo gdi
but at least I found a home for those garish golden bars i had at home
it is the precursor to the ratios of the modern MTBs that are completly useless outside the trail
it's a reasonable range for offroad riding and it shifts quickly
and having it means cheap chain retention.

38 should be 42 though
My gripe is not really with the overall range of the crankset, more the fact that the 32 and 38 are literally one gear's worth apart when paired with the usual cassette with odd tooth counts (11-13-15...), so out of the whole big ring you get just the top gear and the rest that aren't crosschained are duplicates, not like 2 gear inches from what's in another ring, but exact duplicates. In practice you end up using either the 32 or the 38 exclusively unless you're climbing.

Additionally it doesn't make much sense to me how the casual, more "rugged commuter" models like the 800 and the 820 got that crankset combo and the "proper mtb" all got either 24-34-42 or 22-32-42 which would've made more sense on a bike expected to see more pavement (the fuck do you want a 100in gear on the trail for anyway?)

In any case I changed the cassette since for one with 11-12-14-16-18-21-26-32 and it feels way less stupid even if the top gear is still too low for paved descents. Still stuck with the crankset for a while because it's got an E-type as if it weren't memey enough.
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>(the fuck do you want a 100in gear on the trail for anyway?)
this has a 50t big ring on the XT crank.

it's kinda comfy just mashing a big gear along sometimes
I saw this bike on NYC craigslist somewhat recently
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I use her daily
Are the ratios fucked if you have a 11-32t and a 26/36/48 alivio crank?
no that is pretty standard nice gearing

what part of it are you thinking might be fucked?

The only part of that I don't like is I would probably try to change the 26 granny to a 22 or 24 to make it a true bailout gear for really steep hills.
It just feels like the power transfer isn't proportionate to how much I need to pedal. Feels way harder to pedal compared to my old bike and it takes more force to go as fast
If your bike is less efficient, what has that got to do with wide generic gearing?
I can't figure out why the bike would be less efficient
there are a lot of reasons why one bike might be more efficient than another bike
Post bike pic and we'll be able to tell you pretty quickly.
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I don't think i will be able to get this back together lol

god i wish they were thumbies
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this is chrome under the paint
yes you did. i was trying to sell it before the cold hit. guess i'll wait til spring and gouge some hipster lol
>some hipster
we're all hipsters here friend
Hello newfriend!
what price would you want for this? $500?
I'm curious about the market

the challenging thing is bike people generally don't want another man's custom bike. Feels wrong. And non-bike people don't value fancy components.
i listed for $650, expected to get $500. and you're right about the buyer dilemma.

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