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Pink edition.

https://www.youtube.com/c/parktool/videos
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
http://sheldonbrown.com/

Previous: >>1717667
>>
>>1719421
Pedo pedaler
>>
>>1719179
>>1719140
thank you my buddy I put an order in for a new axle. We'll see how replacement goes once it arrives
>>
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>>1719421
what are some good bikes that can ride through snow and ice?
>>
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According to the seller, this is a 'Marin Bear Valley' in good condition (except for the tubing obv.).
I tried googling this specific type of Bear Valley but the Marin logo on most other bikes looks very different compared to the one in pic rel. Is this just some shitty paint job/cheap replica?
Is this even a Bear Valley? When did the Marin logo change to the one in pic rel? Does anyone have more infos?

It's 100 bucks. Should I cop or not?
>>
>>1719478
fat bikes
>>
>>1719478
Check these posts from last thread they have some really good information

>>1718904
>>1718912
>>1718915
>>
>>1719482
>>1719483
thanks
>>
>>1719481
It's 100% real.
look through these to find it:
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufacturer+Archive/Marin/Catalogues/

yes you should 100% buy it. It's a very solid bike.

For marin, it's like, the best low end bike of theirs. All old chromoly marins were good though.
And STX, the groupset and hubs for the wheels, was also like the best low end stuff for shimano.

It's well worth putting a bit of love/money into whether you want a chill trail bike or a utility beater or a cheap tourer.
>>
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>>1719486
>It's 100% real.
Are you sure? Because...
>look through these to find it:
>https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufacturer+Archive/Marin/Catalogues/
...I can't find it. The logo looks very different to the one(s) from the catalogues, especially the letter spacing, the 2nd logo on the rear of the frame is kinda weird/unusual too and the sticker looks like it was glued later on.

Thanks for the link though, such a nice blast from the past. Wish I could turn back time and be a 90s kid again.
>>
>>1719508
>Wish I could turn back time and be a 90s kid again.
buy that bike and you can
>>
im buying a mtb and its coming with quickrelease idc really but im just wondering if it's going to be hard to find replacement mtb wheels that use QR in the future i guess
>>
>>1719640
nah, QR hubs are plenty and easy to come by
>>
>>1719642
thx
>>
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>>1719421
What is a good small folding ebike capable of holding ~200lbs? rider included/

Tires on current bike deflate a bit much while it is in storage, no noticeable defects. Had the bike for years, could it just be age?
[Not looking to replace my current bike with an ebike]
>>
Trying a new seat and get it level to start, but as I tighten the two bolts the nose starts to tip a couple degrees off level.
Is that fine or am I screwing something up here?
>>
>>1719655
Rubber is porous, so it's normal for air to leak slowly out of perfectly good tubes over extended periods of time (more than a couple of weeks).

>>1719656
If it's a typical two-bolt adjustment mechanism you adjust your saddle's tilt angle by loosening one bolt and tightening the other, but if this is one where the bolts are in parallel then you're probably flexing the clamp or rails slightly which should be fine, just take that into account when setting the angle before you start torquing the bolts down.
>>
>>1719666
Well it was an easier fix than I thought, had put the seatpost the wrong way. Ended up stripping further one of the bolts so will have to replace, thanks for the help.
>>
>>1719676
had you greased the bolts and were the rails clamp?
>>
>>1719677
Yeah but it was already sketchy before this so already was having trouble taking the bolt off and on. Seat is secure for now.
>>
>>1719680
>>1719676
Protip: 3/16" and 5mm aren't the same thing. Use the right tool next time.
>>
>>1719681
I've been screwing up here and there with my bike maintenance. Will keep in mind.
>>
>>1719421
>reposting from previous thread

any websites that catalog good areas to ride bikes near you or is that just something you need to figure out yourself?
>>
>>1719693
https://www.strava.com/heatmap
>>
is there an /n/ discord, im lonely and have no friends
>>
It's the resident hateboner cagie making these gay bqgs isn't it.
>>1719477
I looked it up and there are mainly two almost identical solid axle thread standards: 3/8"(~9.5mm) x 26 tpi and M10 x 1.0 (so 25.4 tpi), nut on one will thread onto the other but not vice versa. Ive only encountered one style (I think, I've worked on a lot of cheap bikes and the nuts all seemed compatible). Hopefully you got the right one or it doesnt matter. You will also need a cone wrench. This guide should help. parktool com /blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment
>>
How can I carry a muffler on a bicycle? Mine doesn't have any cargo racks or anything.
>>
>>1719758
bungee it to a backpack if it wont fit in a bag
>>
>>1719760
Hmm, that's probably the best way. Thanks.
>>
>>1719741
Protip: Go with the metric one
>>
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I have a 90s mtb that I believe it was designed to have picrel type of seatpost clamp. What type of non-qr type of bolt can I replace it with? I bought a road type hex bolt but it's too thick and they come in just one size, at least what I could find in my country.
>>
>>1719797
it's either QR or those ugly bolt and nut ones
you could also risk it and just widen the hole
>>
>>1719727
fren potential in here
>https://discord.gg/6MGe55pb
>>
>>1719797
you could just get a nice stainless allen bolt and nut, with washers, of the correct size.
>>
Bought some cheap Lutu forks for my mountain bike after the original spring fork crapped out. I like it as a full rigid, but pretty sure these things will fail and kill me.

Are there decent alu forks out there for $100-200? 1-1/8 threadless, 9mm qr, disc, wheels are 26s but 29er fork seems to keep the right geometry.

Bike is an 00s Jamis Xtrail 2.0 with chunky aluminum frame so I don't want to put thin steel forks on it for dumb vanity reasons.
>>
>>1719816
>decent alu forks
this is an oxymoron
>>
>>1719816
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/23011-soma-fork-crmo-mtb-disc-black-440mm-80mm-3474
>>
>>1719817
Are they really all shit? Dang.
>>
>>1719816
those are perfectly fine, nothing's gonna happen to them. I have a friend who competes in CX with a chink alu fork, years with no issues.
but yes all alu forks are shit, though there's no point in getting anything better for a cheap jamis frame
>>
>>1719840
steel is king
>but muh weight
get more endurance for climbs you sissie
>>
where the fuck can I buy a cheap bike frame that:
>700c wheels and preferably at least 28mm tires
>calipers
>can mount rear rack
>able to mount mud guards is a plus
>can take 10speed gears

I have all the items, I just need a fucking frame
>>
>>1719953
surly cross check
>>
>>1719954
can those take regular caliper brakes? looks like v-brake
>>
>>1719873
They're pretty shit with discs. The axle slots don't have recesses, so I have to crank the shit out of the skewers or else they pop out under hard braking. Also the caliper mounts aren't square to the rotor.

>>1719880
Pure vain aesthetics of not wanting slim steel forks on a chunky alu frame.

If alu isn't an option I'll just get some low end Rock Shox and call it good.
>>
>>1719955
o i read that as cantis, uh idk just get some v-brakes 8) cross check is a dank bike
idk of any company selling frame only utility rim brake bikes anymore, prolly have to check second hand market
>>
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>>1719421
Which downtube shifters will fit this badboy?
It has 3x7 altus a10 derailleurs
>>
>>1719693
Ride with gps has lots of public routes and a decent search engine
>>
>>1719801
I've been in the discord a while but haven't posted it just seems like one or two guys posting all the time and nothing else going on
>>
>>1720012
That doesn't have dt shifter bosses so you'd have to use a clamp if you want to put dt shifters on it. I think sunrace makes a cheap shitty set of clamp on dt shifters that would work. I would recommend that you just get some cheap bar mount friction shifters, that bike is crying out for thumbies
>>
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>>1720012
Clamping dt shifters on that would be a crime.
>>
>>1720050
you're not wrong. a ton of people left awhile ago because certain posters were always fighting/shitposting. last time i saw someone post the invite link, they got shouted down lol.
>>
>>1720065
I stopped posting the strava club and I just lurk. We had people who would just bicker over and over and frankly kind of soured it on me.

Hopefully this place will be fun again.
>>
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I'm probably stupid but Is it fine to remove these bolts at the bottom so that I can get a lower minimum seat height? They're just for bottle mounts, right?
>>
>>1720105
yea but if you need it that short you probably have the wrong size frame, I think in situations like that people cut their seatpost if they are sure they have everything they want.
>>
>>1720107
yeah I'm kind of an awkward in between height and the only dealer we have in town is a single trek shop so my options were limited, but the medium size frames felt the best out of my options. I think the current minimum is perfect for seated pedaling up hill but it kinda just gets in the way when doing downhill.

Didn't think about just cutting the seatpost itself though.
>>
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>>1720105
I think even with the bolts removed, there will be a bit of hardware still inside (like a rivnut).
>>
>>1720105
>>1720112
This. You'll have to trim your seatpost. And if it puts your mind at ease at all, a lot of brands (Trek has been especially bad) have been putting absurdly long posts in a lot of their bikes and trimming them down a bit it is not uncommon.

Most shops can do it quickly and neatly for you, or you can use a pipecutter yourself for a clean, square cut.
>>
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Too much mud gets sprayed on my back when I ride after a rain shower. What 26" mudguards do you recommend?
>>
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I'm retarded and don't know much beyond maintenance basics and a bit more.

I've been wanting to get a new bicycle, but ive been wondering first if its possible to upgrade my current one instead of buying a brand new bike.
I currently have a Norco FBR3 (ill post link below) its an aluminium flat bar road bike with a Claris Groupset-ish. I was thinking of upgrading to drop bars with some Shimano 105 bits mainly the drive train.

So my question is when I come to upgrading my bike, can I treat it a bit like a PC, where you can just easily upgrade whatever you want in it, or will I be memed by some bracket or some such, where I dont know enough to tell you what could stop me from doing this.

Heres my bike If that can give you some insights to my question.
www.norco.com/bike-archives/2015/fbr-3/

Furthermore, if I get a carbon fork, will it absorb most of the vibration or is that just a meme to shill carbon? My current aluminium one rattles my bones a good bit depending on terrain, cloud be something to get if the price is not too steep after the first two.
P.S - I mostly use my bike for sports/fitness and just enjoying the countryside if that matters.
>>
>>1720135
Does your bike have all the mounting points for full-coverage fenders?
>>
>>1720141
you can upgrade/service/improve your bike but those are not the parts you should upgrade and I would not recommend a drop bar conversion

If you want a better ride, or to go faster, upgrade your tires. If you want better shifting, replace your chain and cassette and recable the bike and check the hanger is straight. If you want the bike to work better service any loose/rough bearings. I would also upgrade pedals, saddle, maybe change fit if it isn't good for you. Brakes could be a good upgrade, certainly better pads would be. Change the gearing ratios if those are an issue.

Upgrading your drivetrain/fork/group is stupid.
>>
>>1720141
>will I be memed by some bracket or some such
Bikes ARE modular but not everything is universally compatible.
>>
>>1720141
For a lot of reasons, it's usually a bad idea.

>unlike with pcs its just not cost efficient, buying a bike is always cheaper
>not only do you have to spend the money on the parts but also the tools, theres a lot of tools youd have to buy to upgrade the drive train, for removing things like cranks, bottom brackets, cassttes
>if you dont know shit about mechanics it will be a huge pain in the ass to do this work
>compatibility is limited, 11 speed 105 wont work with anything thats not 11 speed. new shifters means you need a new derailleur, which means a new cassette, new chain, etc
>at the end of the day your new fancy nice parts will be on a shitty frame


the cost of new wheels, 105 groupset, handlebars, fork, buying a new bike from scratch will be cheaper, easier,and better results
used bikes are going for a lot now anyway. sell it and put the money twords a new bike
>>
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>>1720141
carbon forks absorbing vibration is a giant meme to shill carbon, I can't believe people believe this when they look at the thing. Most gains for that type of stuff will be made in tyres, if you are finding you are riding in places where its bumpy and uncomfortable maybe get a bike with bigger tyre clearances.

I say that last point because no don't do massive overhaul upgrades to bikes, it's not cost effective, in your case I would just try to find a new bike if you are really set on replacing your old one.
>>
what do you do for sunnies anons? I only have one pair of sunglasses, my ray bans chromance polarised. and they're great until I step on a bike. for some reason they seem to pool sweat in a way that runs down into my mouth. and then when my nose starts running the sweat delivers it directly into my mouth and usually at a point where I am trying to concentrate on what I'm doing. so I have to ride without sunnies and it's impossible
>>
>>1720151
the difference between a good rigid fork and an overbuilt shitty allum one, or a locked out suspension fork is very noticable.
>>
>>1720155
idk I have some scott ones and some oakleys and theyre both great, one for overcast and one for super sunny days. I've never had a problem with sweat with them but also theyre designed with cycling in mind.
>>
>>1720135
if you can mount fenders and your bikes has mounts for them thats is cozy if not you can get just some clip on ones and they work pretty good, I think topeak makes some decent ones but im sure w/e ur bike shop has is fine too.
>>
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>>1720159
these are the ones I mean. very clearly not cycling oriented. what Oakley's do you have? I used to wear the crankshaft at work and they were good but I left them on a plane years ago.
>>
>>1720162
sutras, they have like 3 different versions of them nowadays
>>
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I mainly just want to go fast (er) + I already have to change my chain ring soon since its getting worn probably... looks like it at least.
Furthermore about the fork question, it was just an question, I don't really intend to change that if I don't have to

>>1720147
>I would not recommend a drop bar conversion
Why not,
I prefer them, though I am a bit afraid that with my skill set switching this shit could very possibly get me killed while riding since it could pop out or something.

I already changed the pedals and tire to something that suits me better. As far as I know my bike fit its pretty decent, I'm never in pain where I shouldn't be and I dish out the proper power from my legs and what not.
I don't even know what my gear ratio or really understand it the numbers, I don't have enough fingers to count that high :) But the extra 3 gears a 105 give would surely help on steep ass climbs we have here + the long flats, no? Anyhow, I like the current size I have right now, when using other peoples bikes with small Chainrings, it just feels like you can't dish out power as much as I do on mine, theirs feels like it offer no resistance.

>>1720149
II Mean with the covid meme bike prices are retarded + I don't live In a big city so most of bike shops here have been emptied out their stock that isn't in the 6000$ range or higher, that or they only have E-Bikes left. And the local craiglist equivalent here, is flooded with Walmart tier bso, or bikes made for manlets with 50-53cm frames.

I've seen bikes bought from the net and they have been insanely shit nearly 7.5/10 times so I don't really feel like playing Russian roulette with that. Unless you can suggest me a good site for that.

So that's kinda why id upgrades my Groupset, from what I'm seeing it should only be around 700$-900$ for those upgrades, I could be wrong... not a clue

>>1720151
It's not as bad as I made it out to be 95% of the time I don't notice the vibrations I should just ride less like a kamikaze.
>>
>>1720167
extra gears dont magically give you better climbing options, its the range, this is something A LOT of people don't understand.They hear 9 speed to 11 speed and go "dude I can climb so much easier now and go so fast". It just evens out the middles. You need to look at the range.

Post your local bike shop's website. Maybe I can help you, also for local listings, its something you just have to keep checking on daily to find sweet deals.
>>
>>1720166
damn look gay as hell
>>
>>1720167
post a pic of your bike
>>
>>1720177
Its 3am and im undressed and my bike is sleeping in the shed right now. I can get you an irl pic tomorrow if you want.
It is a great shame to say but my retarded monke strenght had me snapped 2 front deraileurs, (2nd one I bought used) on that bike so chances are the rest isnt too healthy either

You can get dealer pic here+specs under the link >>>1720141

>>1720170
>Post your local bike shop's website
All 3 of them, they literally dont have any.
as said buying used online too is a lost cause I searched in a 150km radius, the largest frame I saw was 54cm I dont want to bend my spine like a pretzel to fit on one of those.
>>
>>1720135
Diy ass saver
>>1719953
Was going to say wilier montegrappa on Merlin but no rack mounts. I guess you could p clamp it. There's also soma pescadero but not so cheap. Fucking hate it everything's going disc.
>>
>>1720051
>>1720058
>dt shifter boss
can you elaborate? why can't i put a downtube on this together with some 3x7 compatible downtube shifters (or 1x7 if as a last resort)
>>
>>1720189
I'm sorry I'm retarded I didn't mean to say downtube i meant to say drop handlebar shifters, freudian slip. So I want to use brifters on this bike but it currently has a 3x7 MTB configuration so what's the cheapest option for me?
I know that I can buy a new groupset and shifters for $300 but that's just too expensive
>>
>>1720167
Get the drop bar conversion, the more aerodynamic riding position alone will get you go faster.
For the drop bar you will need new brake levers/shifters, you can go with Claris brifters and keep everything else, this would be the budget option. If you want to also upgrade your drivetrain then going with the 105 you have to go with cable brake levers or you will have to have disc brakes to go with hydro, you have to keep in mind the proper version (like 105 5700) or go with FUCKING SRAM, also cable bake version.
I don't think your front derailleur really needs to be replaced so you can reduce costs by shopping part by part. It will mostly be from used articles as well.
I'd say the Claris caliper brakes are good as they are so no need to replace them as well either.
Don't listen to no drop bars anon, he is a resident drop bar hater schizo.
>>
>>1720155
$20 wraparounds from the fishing department at walmart. They aight.
>>
>>1720191
If you want a drop bar conversion or really to do many modifications or much of a project at all, don't buy that. Buy something higher end and in worse condition.
>>
>>1720223
nooo don't tell me that the market is so limited where I live and I need an XL frame size as well
>>
>>1720235
Anon that's a great bike you want to buy and you can have a ton of fun on it but it isn't necessarily suited for trying to convert it to drops, and definitely would be very wrong to try to put downtube shifters on it. I'd buy it, get cheap thumb shifters, new grips and some semi slick tires and just go ride it. It'll be good for utility use with a rack on it, or you can take it on gravel or singletrack. Just have fun with it before you try to rebuild it so you have a better understanding of what you want to do. If you do want a more aggressive position you can get bar ends that clamp onto those bars and curve forward
>>
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can someone tell me what this is ? (that iv highlighted in red)
>>
>>1720283
Is it a lock?
>>
>>1719421
MORE LIKE /BIKE QUEER GENERAL/, AMIRITE???
>>
>>1720283
It's a lock, there's the key in it as well
>>
>>1720283
AP mine
>>
>>1720273
what should I look out for if I want a bike that is worth to get converted to dropbars? XT groupset at least?
>>
>>1720311
Road shifters and MTB derailleurs are mainly incompatible because of different pull ratios, also brakes for same reason. With a few exceptions.
>>
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can you guys stop telling this guy to buy a 105 groupset for his 200 dollar mountain bike, I know you like to troll noobs but this is going too far
>>
>>1720326
Yeah I'm sorry, really tiagra 4700 would be more entertaining for compatibility reasons of course
>>
>>1720191
>I know that I can buy a new groupset and shifters for $300 but that's just too expensive
you can't and it's not
stick to your current setup until you can actually afford something better
>>
>>1720311
Just buy an old road bike
>>
>>1720342
Bro trust me ignore the groupset just buy a $300 carbon wheelset off aliexpress
>>
>>1720345
funnily enough a $300 wheelset would be a much better purchase than a $300 groupset
>>
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I want to try clipless on my bicycle.
I'd like to try mountain bike clips as I often need to walk around after parking the bike.
Any reccomendation for a good quality pedal that will detach easily for a noob?
>>
Is a chain guide as necessary as people make it out to be on a 1x conversion? How common are dropped chains really if you're just riding on good surfaces anyway? Would really like to avoid keeping that ugly front derailleur on.
>>
>>1720326
>105
yeah no, I'm a noob but not a retard I know it's not worth it
I was more thinking about aliexpress chink brifters and keeping the 3x7 configuration but I'm hoping for a better suggestion
>>
>>1720141
Don't bother with 105 for a drop bar conversion, it'll break compatibility with all your parts. If you can hunt down a used set of 8 speed road shifters you'll be sweet. Maybe roll the dice and get some chinese Sensah reflex 2x8 shifters if you can't (should be Shimano compatible).
>>
>>1720377
What's wrong with these for example? https://youtu.be/kj8Y4bMj9OY

And I'm not this guy btw >>1720141 I'm this guy >>1720191
>>
>>1720359
Just get m520 SPDs. They're the cheapest clipless pedals you can get, very reliable, last forever, and they're easy to use because they're double sided. I've been riding with them for years and never really saw the point in trying fancier roadie pedals like SPD-SLs
>>
>>1720383
>never really saw the point in trying fancier roadie pedals like SPD-SLs
Because they look cooler.

>>1720377
Chinkshit is never an upgrade. Tourney 3x7 STI levers exist (for $120 on amazon) and I believe at 7 speed everything's compatible with everything else. While you're at it since you'll have to recable everything anyway drop an extra $10 for Tourney derailleurs instead of whatever walmart garbage might be on there now.
>>
Why is it so important to get the right frame height when buying a bike?? You can easily adjust the height of the seat post if it doesn’t fit
>>
>>1720398
What feels right is the right frame height for you, these size charts aren't set in stone.
>>
>>1720398
reach is a big factor. flat footing it in traffic. being cramped and bent up
>>
>>1720398
Other things are important too, like seat setback or reach or your toes hitting the wheels. Frame size determines the range of possible adjustments.

Also you don't want to whack your balls on the top tube every time you get off.
>>
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Should I leave one or more spacers on top if I want to slam my stem or can I leave it at the cap? Ideally I want it flush, I know a guy who would cut the steering tube for cheap.
>>
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Why the fuck do bib manufacturers not make the chamois just slightly taller on the front side so I don't have to walk around with my dick poking out half the time? I don't have the wrong size bib do I? They're all like this? Everything seems to fit quite well otherwise.
>>
Accidentally crashed into another rider
>>
>>1720407
If you do cut it, remember that the steerer tube should be a few millimeters shorter than flush with the stem.
>>
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>>1720409
>wear embarrassing clothing
>be embarrassed of how you look
>>
>>1720414
Just seen the gcn video on it, looks like I'll have to deal with the star fangled nut as well.
>>
>>1720155
aliexpress is making exquisite fakes of the oakley kato right now. YOU ARE A ROBOT
>>
>>1720409
Pro Tip: Just tuck your dick down bro.
>>
>>1720428
I do sometimes, but my dick doesn't work like that. It's uncomfortable.
>>
>>1720430
How big are you?
>>
>>1720431
Average enough (for a white dude anyway) that I don't even know off the top of my head. Didn't think it was really a size problem though.
>>
>>1720359
set the retention rate to the easiest settings on the pedals when you do get it and practice the motion of clipping out a few times before you actually start riding. any shimano clipless pedal will do as far as mtb goes, shimano makes some really shitty entry level ones for road but I think all the normal spds work pretty good.
>>
>>1720430
You can always just get the like underwear version of cycling shorts and wear them as you would underwear underneath a pair of sports shorts or whatever pants you feel most comfortable cycling in.
It's all the benefits of wearing chamois with none of the disadvantages of looking like a faggot.
>>
>>1720418
Just stick a big socket on it and tap it down a bit
>>
>>1720439
It's not so much of an issue that I'd go that far. It's just inexplicable to me why manufacturers wouldn't add an extra few cm of foam, it would cost them basically nothing.

I guess it's just because nobody cares about it and I'm the odd one out.
>>
>>1720439
it's not as comfy
>>
>>1720409
It's a feature, not a bug.
>>
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>>1720433
>Average enough (for a white dude anyway)
So 4 inches.
>>
If there's a tubeless ready sticker on a rim does it only apply to the rim itself or to the tape as well?
>>
>>1720480
Could be both but assume it's just the rim until proven otherwise.
>>
>>1720481
>until proven otherwise.
So I pretty much have to potentially be covered in sealant to find out.
>>
you guys are getting erect while riding?
>>
>>1720482
I meant like showing a shop guy or something. Not-tubeless might just be a plastic strip that can be slid around or a piece of cloth tape just wide enough to cover the holes. Tubeless will be plastic or thicker tape and stretch from bead to bead.
>>
>>1720482
It isn't hard to tell the difference between tubeless tape and a regular plastic rim strip. Post a picture if you really can't tell.
>>
>>1720488
>>1720489
I haven't actually removed the tyre yet, I was just asking in case that it only applied to the rim and not to the tape in which case I would need to buy some. So yeah, I'll just take a look.
>>
>>1720409
Wear black, it will mostly cover your cock
Mine is noticable but that color offer decent concealment
Also you can just buy loose cycling shorts if its embarassing for you, I did for a long time it was nice to have pockets
>>
>>1720483
Yeah, but only when my mind wanders off
Never from female cyclist since these niggers are too slow to even bother hogging their brappy draft.
>>
If I’m drilling painted forks for recessed brakes should I go straight in with the 8mm or start at 6mm etc? I don’t know which option would potentially chip more paint, but I assume using 2 sized drills would give better results?
>>
>>1720600
if it is a handdrill take it slow, you will have to lubricate the drill bit
>>
Wat bike stand(s) should I buy so I don't have to lean my (two) bikes against the wall anymore?
>>
Looking for a steel rim brake frame with larger clearance
>skinny tubes make me happy
>32mm tire clearance at least
>not super aggressive geometry, riding “in” the bike as opposed to “on”
>lighter is better, Reynolds 832 or columbus spirit

Can any of you /n/ips recommend me something? Fairly large budget but don’t mind looking for vintage and restoration frames
>>
>>1720629
>>not super aggressive geometry, riding “in” the bike as opposed to “on”
Wat?
>>
>>1720610
X2
>>
Why does no one sell step-through bike frames?
I mean frames, with nothing else.

You can buy a whole bike, but then it comes with a mediocre saddle, cheap brakes and sometimes a drivetrain you just want to get rid of and put something else on.
Like... you could look into some sort of step through hybrid bike that could be great for urban cycling, but then you end up with a drivetrain that's geared for mountain biking, and you're looking at all sorts of cheap parts on it for reasons that just astound me.

You can easily obtain road and touring frames. Heck, full suspension MTB frames and BMX frames are also easily obtained. But if you're looking for a step-through frame? Forget about it.
>>
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>>1720629
>>skinny tubes make me happy
>>lighter is better, Reynolds 832 or columbus spirit

um, what? Presumably you mean 853. 853 and Spirit are both oversized tubesets. They're not skinny.

anyway I recommend a Gunnar Sport. It's a similiar high-spec OS steel frame. ~35mm clearance. Mega comfy. Not classic aesthetics but the quality is really there. Get one with a curved steel fork.
$1500
>>
>>1720640
Because in the US market this are women's bikes and for women only, usually old, fat, or both. No market profit in good mechs and Karen isn't doing a frame build up.
>>
>>1720640
rivendell and velo orange both sell/sold step through framesets. not as extreme-invalid friendly as that one in your pic but tubes meeting basically at the bb is a terrible design unless your shits all fucked up in which case are you really going to build an expensive custom bike
>>
>>1720643
Dat bash guard doe.
Been waiting for them to come back in stock for months. Might have to give up and just go drillium on a cheap flat one.
>>
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>>1720646
lmao are you really trying to buy one ?
this (also unavailable unless you want a 62cm disc one) would be cooler imo being actually a mixte

that line from the top tube to the mixte-y tube on the riv not being straight/continuous triggers me hard.
>>
>>1720642
I live in Europe, and often this style of bike isn't seen as so much a women's bike, but as a "Dutch bike". Similar styles are also common in Japan.
Anywhere that cycling in urban areas is normal and not seen as a hobby for maniacs.
What if you wanted to build a bike that's got hub gears at the rear, step through for ease and also has well performing rim brakes or even disc brakes?
>>1720643
Do either of those brands even sell in Europe?
I just prefer an upright position, and most mountain bikes are geared for high cadence cycling.
Why isn't there something that's about as fast as a touring bike, that's comfortable like a city bike?
If I wanted something like that, I'd have to build my own bike, and while that seems ok, I just find it frustrating that only a limited number of frame designs are available frame only.
Isn't the whole idea of the bicycle that you can make it your own?
>>
>>1720650
No, just the bash guard lol. I like running one on my 1x for aesthetics and to conceal my pathetically tiny chainring.

>>1720651
Yeah EU they're more common unisex, but still have a hard disconnect from serious riding.

What makes throwing a leg over so hard for you? A little yoga/stretching work can do wonders.
>>
Why are pedal based power meters so much more expensive (3x) than crank arm based ones?

I could get a crank arm one for around 200 bucks, should I do it or is it waste of money and one should immediately go for a pedal one?

The problem is not only the price though, I use SPD cleats on my road bike, don't like those SPD-L shoes.
>>
>>1720653
lol i thought you meant you'd buy a hiten shitter mixte and drill holes in it so you can have a riv
>>
>>1720651
>step through frame (heavy)
>upright riding position (un-aero)
>hub gears (in-efficient, heavy, narrow-range)
>but fast

Want it to be cheap too?
>>
>>1720656
I have a mixte Nishiki and I'm the boss of the road on that thing. It is light, has somewhat aggressive riding position and it was cheap.
No internal gears mind you
>>
>>1720610
make something out of pvc tubing or lead piping, don't go the wood route that shit is too expensive now
>>
>>1720392
>Chinkshit is never an upgrade
it currently has old school 80s/90s Altus A10 3x7 and I need the cheapest way to make it work with drop bars
>>
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wtf I'm I looking at?
>>
>>1720653
>serious riding
What does this mean, exactly?
Do you mean competitive road racing or time trialing?
For me, cycling is about leisure and being active. Going somewhere, maybe somewhere fun, enjoying the day and enjoying the ride.
Having a bike that is comfortable for shorter distance riding, practical at doing medium distances, and can even do longer distances every now and then would be great.

I prefer a step through at least because mounting and dismounting is easy. It's not like I can't mount and dismount a more traditional design, but I often swing my leg over the rear wheel in that situation, and if I had a pannier rack with something on that... well that's a good way to damage luggage.
>>1720656
Depends on what you define as "cheap". I'm not going to go out and buy some UCI certified bike that costs €20k.
If you think a typical eBike is cheap... I don't. Even at €2-3k, that's pricey.
A €600-800 bike is typically the higher end of hybrid bikes, but most of them are often very scarce on features, and are some carbon frame design.
I just want a comfortable bike with fenders, a pannier, and gearing that's for climbing hills, but also for when I want to feel the wind on my face.
>>
>>1720704
A flip-flop hub with a 3 cog freewheel installed
>>
>>1720704
Some wheels designed for fixie bikes have two sprockets of slightly different sizes, one on each side. I guess someone somehow managed to add a few extra on one of the sides. Or perhaps the single sprocket is somehow installed on bolts intended for a disc brake? I'm also confused.
>>
>>1720705
Serious riding is when you start giving a crap about drivetrain components.

It sounds like a traditional frame can cover all your needs, except for tall rear rack loads. In which case, work on your flexibility so you can step forward over the top tube to mount the bike, and this solves what sounds like a minor, rare issue.
>>
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>>1719421
My wife
>>
Need to get me some suspension forks, what 27.5 forks have clearance for a x 3.00 tyre???
>>
Why the fuck are all used bike made for literal manlets, im not even freakishly tall either and I cant find shit above 53cm.
>>
Looking to fix up some rust spots and paint chips on steel frame 90s mtb. I heard nail polish works pretty good, should I do anything beyond soapy scrub to prep it? Anything in particular besides color to look out for as far as nail polish quality? And clear coat nail polish to finish or anything else?
>>
>>1720717
Many forks that can take 29 wheels can also take 27.5+, my fox 36 rhythm can.
>>
>>1720718
Because sellers sell you bicycle smaller than your ideal to get rid of the stock. I got fucked this way too as I bought my current bike just because I wanted a bike without doing too much research. Next year I'll probably be the seller of one of those small frame bike on Craigslist
>>
Chain or U lock. How much is worth spending locing up an 800e bike. How portable are chain locks compared to u locks? would regularly need to cycles with it for an hour.
>>
>>1720718
Because dorks fell for the tiny frame horsecock stem meme only to realize that they aren't 20 year old 140lb peak athletes and riding a tiny frame like that is suffering.
>>
>>1720720
I'd use a little brake cleaner on a rag after you wash it and right before applying whatever iy is.
That stuff melts grease and oils like nothing else.
>>1720731
Personal preference.
For me chains all the way. Much easier to get around oddly shaped objects. Much easier to wrap around bike frame to carry, some are even designed to be locked around your waist as a belt. I bought a really expensive kryptonite Ulock years ago and it came with a really shitty and flimsy bike mount that broke. After that you have to find a place to carry it which SUCKS. Some people shove them down their pants, or in their backpacks which is not ideal.
Cable locks are like chain locks but easier to cut and more of a pain in the ass to wrap around your bike because they like to unwrap themselves.
Chain is as good as it gets imo, just get a nice meaty one.

Oh. One great thing about U locks is that they make great weapons, so there's that.
>>
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>>1720731
U lock especially if you are just locking to standard bike stands
My bike mount i use hasnt broken or anything and for leaving my bike for a few hours im not worried about anyone stealing my wheels but you can get a separate cable for front wheel if you are worried
also don't get the long u locks there's no point its just extra weight i have one i got off my dad and 10cm of it is just wasted when i lock my bike
>>
>>1720745
good thinkin on brake cleaner

>>1720731

I find chains are annoying to store on a bike, if you have a rack you can probably find a suitable way to store the ulock on it. Else lock it through back belt loops works great
>>
>>1720745
>One great thing about U locks is that they make great weapons

Calm down antifag
>>
>>1720748
Ooh, locking it through your belt loops is a good idea. I'll have to try
>>
>>1720748
>>1720757
It sounds like a good idea until you try it. It's really not.
>>
>>1720149
Currently experiencing this. Picked up a 90s triple triangle GT bike from the thrift store for $40. At the time I was considering spending like $500 on a new bike. I figured I could fix this GT up and have something a little more unique. So far I've spent about $100 on just tools. I'm estimating that once I start buying new parts for it, they'll probably run me about $600.

Unless you enjoy wrenching in your garage and willing to spend the extra money on what is essentially a second hobby, then it can be worth it. Otherwise, just buying something off the shelf will be the cheapest and quickest way to get on the road.
>>
Is upgrading from a square taper bottom bracket to hollotech worth it or is it just a meme?
>>
>>1720784
Square taper is far superior. You'd be downgrading in any case.
>>
>>1720641
Sorry, I’m new to steel (only had alu before) and I’m still learning. looks like a great frame, shame about the aesthetics
If I can’t find a vintage frame I’ll go for the Gunnar,
but I’m essentially looking for a
>rim
>endurance/audax/touring geo
>good clearance for fenders and 35mm tires
In as light steel as is reasonable, with skinny tubes/vintage looks as a bonus. I’ll slap a carbon fork on a vintage as I’ve seen a few grabons with 1” steerers
>>
why aren't silicone inner tubes a thing
>>
>>1720784
Ignore the other retard. Hollowtech is a huge fucking improvement from an ease of maintenance perspective and a good shimano crankset is going to be a massive improvement over whatever ancient and/or walmart shit you have that's still using square taper.
>>
does hambini approve of hollowtech
>>
>>1720654
Crank arm ones are usually $400-$500 for stages or 4iii I think. $200 (new) sounds fishy.
>>
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>>1720802
yes
>>
>Wheel was coming loose on axle
>Know nothing about wheel bearings
>Order new 1/4" bearings and replace the old ones
>Wheel now doesn't sit straight on the axle
Should I just bring it in to the shop? I think I've fucked it up.
>>
>>1720801
>ease of maintenance
well, if that's your argument st requires no maintenance whatsoever
>>
>>1720754
Pardon? Nice mental gymnastics, queer
>>
>>1720810
You should have learned how to adjust bearing first of all, since all it probably was was loose bearings that didn't even need to be replaced.
>Wheel now doesn't sit straight on the axle
No idea how that's even possible. Yes you should take it to a shop if you're too retarded.
>>
>>1720819
What bike locks are the cultural weapons of antifa trannies. It is hardly mental gymnastics.
>>
>>1720828
That's like saying if you own a firearm it means you're a nazi redneck.
You'll be happy to have a ulock when you get jumped in an alley by "youths"
>>
>>1720814
>bb goes bad
>threads inside crank strip when you try to remove it
>have to cut the axle with a hacksaw to get them off
>TIME TO BUY NEW CRANKS LOL
>try to remove bb
>threads seized because it hasn't been touched in a decade because "ZERO MAINTENANCE LOL"
>dig out the breaker bar
>splines inside bb cups strip
>TIME TO BUY A NEW FRAME LOL
>>
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>>1720831
Remind me again which demographic commits the most gun violence?
>>
I've got a weird one: a headset that feels notchy and 'indexes' when the bike is in the workstand. This is on an old road bike with a threaded headset that's been ridden hard offroad for years (and occasionally comes loose no matter what I do), but it turns smoothly and freely, and when I pulled it and cleaned all the grease out the races look fine and the bearings too. Repacked with fresh grease and the bike rides fine, but still notchy in the stand. I know the fix is to replace the old headset and I'll do that when the issue actually effects the riding performance, just curious if anyone else has experienced such a thing?

>>1720784
Square taper is perfectly fine, but the difference in stiffness with a larger spindle and wider bracing angle for the bearings is definitely noticeable. Whether it's worth upgrading depends on what you're looking to achieve, and also whether you're on a frame that's stiff enough for such an upgrade to matter.
>>
>>1720831
I have better accuracy punching someone than hitting them with a u-lock, your point is retarded
>>
>>1720836
>Notched bearings
I've had a few motorcycles with the same, and it's mostly invisible when you pull the bearings. At worst, I saw a tiny shadow if a ball-bearing on the inner race and that was it. I'm guessing the micro tolerances are amplified into perceptible movement by the time they travel all the way to the end of a handlebar.
>>
>>1720720
you should sand it and sand a small area of paint around it to overlap onto and then clean it with wax and grease remover
not brake cleaner, which would leave behind residue.

you also might consider doing a rust converter underneath or primer.

I wouldn't clear it with nail polish. It's not a bad idea but you could do better if you wanted.
Tamiya paints are better than nail polish. If you have a hobbyist store near you they might stock those or be good in general to talk to. A good auto-paint supply store would also mix you a custom aerosol.
>>
>>1720783
DONT SPEND $600 ON PARTS FOR YOUR MINT LOW END BIKE JESUS CHRIST
>>
>>1720836
you could try replacing the caged bearings for more loose bearings of the same size. That should improve it.


It's a fiddly job but you just put in fully packed, minus two
>>
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>>1720833
>>splines inside bb cups strip
impossible with a breaker bar and a correctly seated tool
>>
>>1720846
>$40 from the thrift store
>mint
>>
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>>1720855
>needing a breaker bar for routine bike maintenance
>>
>>1720859
oh sorry i thought it was another GT that was posted here the other day

post a pic of yours
>>
>>1720860
servicing a square taper bb isn't routine maintenance because they last 10 times as long as external bearing bbs
>>
>>1720862
Removing an installed, non-permanent component is "routine maintenance". If you don't ride enough to wear them out faster than once every 20 years that's your own problem.
>>
>>1720863
how often do you change your bb?
>>
>>1720833
kek "sealed" bearings are always super rusty and dry when I extract them from a bike copse
>>1720855
the tools are weaker than the spines and get thinned out quickly
best to use a new tool and maybe a G clamp if things are rusted in place
>>1720784
>worth it
only for weight weeny purposes
outboard bearings are a bit of a cludge, but its not a bad solution
>just a meme ?
yea its mindless coomsooming
may as well convert to 1x and Boost hubs while you are at it
>>
>>1720867
>G clamp
anon... you're supposed to bolt the tool to the bb spindle
>>
>>1720863
this is the gayest thing iv ever read on this board and that includes when the yowa pedal yaoi threads were up
>>
>>1720868
depends what tool is in use
needs must when the devil drives
>>
>>1720846
Maybe I’m overestimating, but it adds up. Everything but the frame and seat post is being replaced. New bottom bracket, new crankset, new chain, etc. Even if I get low to mid tier parts, it all adds up. Maybe it’ll be closer to $300-400 in parts.
>>
>>1720872
post a pic anon
>>
>>1720872
>it all adds up
yeah it all adds up even when you're just servicing/restoring a complete bike and not trying to change it. Good consumables add up for sure.

Doing a frame up custom build on something only makes sense imo if:
>It's a bike you've already ridden into the ground and love
>it's a VERY nice frame
>you have a big parts bin, acquired from scrapping/ fixing other old bikes and so you're not buying parts

Just getting some meh old moneypit then trying to completely change it from nothing is dumb as fuck. Are the current parts really unusable?
>>
>>1720873
It’s a work in progress.
>>
>>1720874
Parts are readily available for it. I acknowledge that from a purely economical standpoint it doesn’t make sense, mostly doing it so I learn how to work on bikes. So I can better maintain my other bike without fucking it up.
>>
>>1720881
that's a decent 4130 frame but why don't you re-use the parts that came on it?
>>
>>1720874
>>1720883
Misread your question. The cables were rusty, the bottom bracket was not smooth at all, the chainrings and sprockets were clearly worn, the brakes did a shit job at actually stopping the bike. Only thing I felt I could salvage was the shifters and the wheels.
>>
>>1720881
that's a handsome frame
>>
>>1720886
the cantis would work well if you just put kool stops and new cables
they're highly dependent on good setup and consumable parts

replacing cassette and chainrings if worn definately makes sense

make sure you also open up the hubs on the wheels and put new balls and grease in and make sure the cups/cones aren't worn.
>>
>>1720888
Thanks for the tips. Forgot to mention the derailleurs, those still look good and will be going back on the bike.
>>
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Is this good? I need a bike for commuting. Is it worth $200?
>>
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>>1720891
>fixie
>>
>>1720891
Looked into the brand, appears to be some German brand. Never heard of them, but I’m an Amerilard, maybe some Eurofag can chime in. Looks like new they go for about $250 to $400 USD. I wouldn’t pay $200 for a used one. https://www.kcp-bikes.de/en/bikes/fixed-gear-single-speed/
>>
>>1720893
https://www.kcp-bikes.de/28-zoll-rennrad-single-speed-kcp-fg-1-flat-fixed-gear-gold-1764?c=42
That exact model in a different color, $200 is a tad bit much for that. Plenty of people commute with fixed gears, but you may want to tweak your gear ratio depending on the roads you use.
>>
>>1720891
seems a bit expensive
but its specification looks ok
id make sure it has a decent free-wheel
and also check if the chain line is strait
>>
>>1720891
prolly ok see if the guy will take 100 or 150 fixies are ok if u dont have hills and its relatively short for the most part.
>>
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>>1720891
$200 is slightly too much but yes, it is good. As a fixiechad you will enjoy such perks as being faster and more skillful than 99% of cyclists (/n/ included). Although you might not get much riding done since you'll be literally drowning in pussy. Hope you like the smell of moist female muck pits, because that's all you'll get when cycle qts sees you overtaking.

Picture related. Take it, king.
>>
>>1720906
thats not a king crown, this is jewelry made for women
based subversive anon memeing others into looking like complete fruity queers
>>
>>1720798
I don't know. But why are you asking? Why aren't tubes made out of any number of other elastomers?
>>
>>1720640
Because most step-through bikes, like the one you posted, are cheap hybrids. They don't sell framesets of the non-step-through versions of those bikes either because they're cheap.
>>
>>1720651
>Why isn't there something that's about as fast as a touring bike, that's comfortable like a city bike?
Because those are two different types of bike with two different body positions.
>>
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Hi guys.
I'm a fat retard and want to not be such a fat retard.
I'm planning on doing a several state journey on a bike and know next to nothing.
Would this bike do the job? Seem like a decent deal?
>>
>>1720928
Forgot link
https://columbus.craigslist.org/bik/d/columbus-gary-fisher-trek-mountain/7389436390.html
>>
>>1720930
Hello, ohiobro. I'm maybe not the best person to give an opinion on the price, but it's a cool bike nonetheless. If you're the type of person who wants to buy new gear to haul your supplies and stuff, this might not be the best bike as it won't fit a lot of the newfangled bikepacking bags and shit like that. If you're the type of person who might stick a rear rack on it and pack up a backpack and dive in, then I think it would be cool, as long as it's comfy for you for long rides. It's a good old 90s mountain bike.
>>
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>>1720928
26 inch wheels have a decent spoke bracing angle
2 inch tires can support alot of weight even at only 40 psi, but I would not run such tires at 60 psi
Freehubs have better axle support, so they are preferable
freewheels tend to get bent on the drive side
the wheel rims have a shallow a flat section, so I suspect they will bend easily, plus side is that they are also easyer to straiten
double walled deep section rims are hard to bend but they also tend to crack
that geometery of canterlever does not have very high mechanical advantage, they are a bit more diffcult to get working well

only thing bothering me about this bike is that step down adapter holding the handle bars looks funky
frame is likely under sized for the person who owns it, this makes the seat post and handle bars less well secured
>>
>>1720869
this is the gayest thing iv ever read on this board and that includes when the yowa pedal yaoi threads were up
>>
>>1720939
What the fuck are you talking about?
>>1720928
Anon, it might seem like that doofus is bringing up a lot of negative points about that bike, but he's full of shit. If that bike fits you well and the consumable parts aren't all worn out (tires, brake pads, cables, chain/drivetrain), then it'll be a cool bike. Maybe try to haggle a little lower price. Seems a but high to me, but I don't know how covid has influenced the used market in your area.
>>
>>1720944
quick run down is that a 90s mtb can handle 200 kg for a while but dont expect the hubs to last
>>
>>1720938
>>1720939
>>1720944
Thanks guys. I'll see if I can pick it up today.
>>
>>1720948
hope it goes well
the bikes condition looks good
>>
Anyone converted a rigid 90s mtb from 26'' to 650b?
Considering doing this, would like to know how to find out if it's doable with my particular frameset and what other details I'll need to take into account., also - cantilever brakes, they are usually height adjustable so I'm hoping there's no problems there.
>>
What should I look for to find a really lightweight 90s mtb frame? The one I have feels like it’s made of gas pipes and lead
>>
why are straight handlebars getting longer and longer
are they deliberately trying to make us look like dorks
>>
>>1720977
You do it to yourself
Besides
>what is a hacksaw
>>
>>1720963
for what purpose?
>>1720975
vertical dropouts are usually a good sign, also look for tubing stickers on the seat tube, good quality frames advertise their tubing
>>1720977
for improved control, allegedly. also you're supposed to cut down new handlebars to your desired width
also they're called flat bars, not straight bars
>>
>look for a rigid 90s mtb
>they can only fit shit-tier 26” wheels
Why are these recommended so often?
>>
>>1720980
because 26" is god-tier and you're an idiot
>>
>>1720981
Maybe if you’re 5’6”
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>>1720975
bikes marketed towards Professional MTB riders, they normally have something like Comp or Team in their name and weigh 10 kg or less, good luck lol
there are many more 13 kg bikes on the market, anything at that weight or lighter is good compared to the majority of bikes
15 kg and above is normal but dont get too caught up, most of a bikes weight is its wheels and drive train
>>
>>1720982
nah, they're great for all heights
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>>1720979
>for what purpose?
A few reasons, as a hedge against the severe shortage of decent 90's rubber, and because I never did it before and fancy having a go. Got a really nice frame that I think will be ideal for it, plus I was gifted a 650b wheelset and need a use for it.
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>>1720981
26 inch rims wheels and tires are getting more scarce now
they are even starting to disappear from walmart tier bikes
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>>1720986
>I was gifted a 650b wheelset
coulda just said that
just measure the diameter difference and see if your brake pads can be moved enough to reach
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>>1720984
>>1720979
Thanks anons, I’ve gone down the rabbit hole a bit, as it’s a touring/audax build in a hilly cuntry
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>>1720986
tis possible but not advisable
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>>1720991
here in the frame part of the rabbit hole
looking only at the main triangle 9-6-9 is about where touring bikes start, and is on the light side of things for an MTB
Columbus SL and some grades of Reynolds 531 (BB122) are somewhat like this as is the top end of Tange MTB tubes
but most tube sets are available in many different Outer diameters and profiles, so you have to dig a bit to see what you are looking at

to my eye the weight difference between the lightest and heaviest tube set does not look like much
and the weight changes again depending on what lugs and drop-outs are used
>>
if the boomer memes are true you might like Reynolds 531 ST (super tourist)
maybe 520 for a Tig welded frame (its 725 without heat treatment)
tho it might be heavier than what you are looking for (same kind of mind set as carrying spare spokes)
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>>1720928
fine depending on condition but a similar bike, but rigid fork, would be much better for cycle touring
>>
I want to start cycling around the 'burbs to get in shape, mostly have sidewalks and is all residential, what should I look for if I want to get a bike at a thrift shop?
>>
>>1721001
>>1720996
Wew fuck that’s a cool bit of knowledge, thank you anon, I appreciate you sharing it

To be frank I’m not impressed by those weights, I’m trying to build a total weenie bike, and my touring gear is similarly weenie - tent, bag and mat are all handmade in featherweight materials, I’d likely never carry more than 6kg in luggage including pump, spares, water and food, and even though I’m 6’2” and ride 58cm frames I’m not a heavy rider or sprinter and won’t be bombing off road

>http://ultralightcycling.blogspot.com/2010/05/packing-list.html
Is a great resource

Jan heine’s audax bikes are another spectacular resource, I believe he had a fully dressed winterised steel audax bike for 15lb

I’ll stop looking at old MTB frames and have a dig into retro/vintage steel audax and cyclocross
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>>1721110
care to make that question a little more vague please
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>>1721110
Get one with at least two wheels
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>>1721110
That's a big ask, could you even find one for under 1K?
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>>1721110
Well, for fitness you absolutely cannot afford to go without aero, otherwise it’s like using the pink 2lb dumbbells to build muscles - how can you work up a sweat at low speed? Therefore a good aero tri rig is probably the best bet, commonly used by healthy people like triathletes to stay in shape.

One beginner mistake which can be really serious is choosing a heavy bike. Heavy bikes are for skinny people who don’t have much weight on their bodies, and poor people who don’t have a choice but to ruin their knees and elbows cycling a heavy bike around. If you want to be healthy and lose some weight, you want the least amount of strain on your already-taxed joints, so a lightweight bike is a must. I recommend carbon fibre on as many components as possible, especially the cranks and wheels - it’s the best, you often see fitness coaches recommending it, don’t listen to the salty skinnyfags at /n/, lots of people have become very fit riding carbon.
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>>1719711
>>1720049

these is awesome, thanks
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>>1721110
Dont get a full suspension mountain bike that costs 250 dollars. Get the bike with a water bottle holder, two is better.
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>>1721138
>thrift shop
>carbon TT bike
His best bet is buying some entry level road bike then slapping aero bars on it.
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>>1721138
Can we not give people bad advice as le funny meme here? You could do 100, 200, 300 watts sitting straight up wearing a windcatcher parka. The only thing aero would do is make you go faster at the same amount of effort. If anything, aero stuff is the 2lb dumbells because you have to do less effort to go fast.
>>
a small basic overview, there is alot of kruft to sort though
my lightest bike says for people over 68 kg not to ride it
its more towards the 0.7-0.4-0.7 side of things, not great not terrable but its an ancient boat anchor

some old bike weights from the 1970s
typical track bike 8 kg
alloy track bike 5.58 kg
eddy merckx hour record bike 6 kg

even with more modern tubesets Jan heine bikes are surely pared to the bone
an impressive attention to detail to fly so close to the sun

>vintage steel audax and cyclocross
immidiately after ww2 people in europe were buying touring bikes instead of cars but this only lasted a couple of decades
almost like the disspearance of bubble cars
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>>1720979
>supposed to cut down new handlebars
this is such a lie surely lol
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>>1721206
Why would that be a lie? You trim flat bars to your preferred width.
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>>1721207
>pick up brand new bike from LBS
>spent a lot of money, really excited
>admiring the shiny paint and fresh components
>bike shop owner approaches me with a rusty hacksaw blade
>don't forget to remove all the levers that we just set up and the grips and take this hacksaw to your brand new bike
>>
>>1721215
ok? I'm not sure what you're getting at.
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>>1721215
…yes? What’s so difficult to understand?
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>>1721216
I just can't see it. I'm not calling you a liar, not really. just seems bizarre. wouldn't you just buy the dimensions you want?
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>>1721195
>>1721177
>/n/ misleads a newbie into hating cycling forever
>>1721110
Get the carbon aero tri rig anon, it’s a great starter bike before you build up to more specialist gear like a 90s rigid mtb
>>
>>1721218
Because it's easier to sell one wide handlebar and have people cut it if they want to than to make 6 different widths. But you typically see it happening on higher end bikes. The person riding a hybrid or a $800 mountain bike usually isn't worrying about it.
>>
>>1721221
>>1721218
And also, it's not like people are just going at it with a hacksaw. You use either a cutting guide with a hacksaw or a pipe-cutter to make sure you're getting a nice clean, square cut.
>>
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>>1721220
>more specialist gear like a 90s rigid mtb
this surely is educational
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>>1721220
my tt pissbike was my second bicycle as an adult and purchase, full service, new cables, new rear wheel, new tubes was less than a thousand dollars. I really think people are sleeping on the value proposition of these bicycles. they're fast enough that 4chan pros riding their 90s mtbs aren't going to be overtaking you, look cool, good conversation starter and conversely if you like being left alone people will assume you're some sort of weird fitness obsessive so you can just act weird and they'll leave you alone. ave commuters.
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>>1721226
tt bikes are cool but if you live in hilly terrain you might be better off with a regular road bike for practical reasons
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>>1721232
yeah I have some very steep but very short hills on my commute and they do suck for that yeah
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>>1721226
Getting a tt bike for anything other than racing or training to race in a tt or triathlon is retarded.
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>>1721234
I've got my commute time down to 20 minutes in the pitch black. tt bikes are just for going fast which is what I need to do when I drink 16 beers and oversleep and vomit on my work shirt and it makes me late
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>>1721226
if you have to ride on another man's piss to defeat some autists, i'd say you defeated yourself
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>>1721236
you do not have the will of the warrior
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>>1721235
Sounds like you've got it all figured out.





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