[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/n/ - Transportation

[Advertise on 4chan]

Name
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 93 posters in this thread.

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]


Happy 18th Birthday, 4chan!

Janitor acceptance emails will be sent out over the coming weeks. Make sure to check your spam box!


[Advertise on 4chan]


File: BQG.jpg (109 KB, 760x760)
109 KB
109 KB JPG
Fatbike edition

https://www.youtube.com/c/parktool/videos
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
http://sheldonbrown.com/

Previous: >>1716062
>>
pissbike anon here

I pick up my bike tomorrow. I am nervous about whether I will like the new wheel. I am glad I have friends here who give me good advice and calm my nerves (I am autistic). it will cost me a lot of money for the service and new wheel and I'm sure it's well spend thanks to you all.
>>
>2021
>imagine there are cucks out there buying Specialized bikes

How pitiful
>>
>>1717675
I have a bmx its fun :3
>>
>>1717675
My bike is specialized for gravel riding and I bought it this year
>>
>>1717681
>>1717683

Nice, the cucks are already reporting in.
>>
>>1717683
>>1717687
It's a Cannondale though
>>
File: 116061343957671.jpg (47 KB, 597x596)
47 KB
47 KB JPG
pls help me
>>
I have Merida Scultura 400 with disk brakes, also the Japanese version. Need a new front rim, so can you help me picking up something relevantly of the same class (equal or a bit better durability/weight). Not working with dollars, but let's imagine around 100-150 dollars?
https://www.merida.jp/lineup/road_bike/scultura_400.html
MERIDA Expert SL; 17 IWR; 22 HRI - is what the rims are, it says.
First thought to leave it to the bike shop, just to see in general how much it will end up costing through them and they were giving descent estimates, but then just couldn't deliver, because they are trying to get new rims directly from merida or shimano, but shortages or something, I guess, so they kept delaying it and last time said maybe next year, so time to just order something online myself.
>>
>>1717695
just get a new wheel dude.
custom wheel builds aren't really cost effective most of the time.

where you're even prepared to buy that wheel from dictates what you might even buy but like shimano wheels are always a solid choice.
>>
Reporting this thread for homophobia.
>>
>>1717698
Actually you are right, I do want to buy a new wheel, cause the whole thing is fucked one way or another. The terminology run away from me for a moment there and got confused, it seems. Still a newbie.
But would be good if I can get any recommendations and help.
Basically any 700c wheel will fit or?
>>
>>1717711
>>1717698
>>1717695
Maybe I don't have that much choice in that price range. For shimano at least there is only the WH-RX010-CL-F. Nothing even for 100 dollars more.
Any chance I could somehow fuck up ordering that? Like the quick release not fitting? Surely the discs should fit as they would be standardized sizes, I imagine?
>>
>>1717692
*helps u*
Np anon
>>
>>1717675
>I can only afford one bike the post
>>
>>1717669
sure, keep us posted.
I'm fairly sure you will not even notice any difference but now you can more-confidently drop off of curbs at speed and etc.
>>
File: 1616772197021.jpg (994 KB, 1458x1256)
994 KB
994 KB JPG
>>1717722
>Surely the discs should fit as they would be standardized sizes
>>
>>1717675
the price of the new crux made you mad huh
>>
can someone give an overview of cycling shoes

everytime I google "cycling shoes explained" I get articles that only really go into clipless options, is there really nothing else?
>>
>>1717841
They have flat-specific mountain bike shoes - I think made to work well with pinned flats. Most cycling enthusiasts go with clipless nowadays, mainly to keep your foot in the optimal pedal position. If you don't want clipless then basically any normal shoe becomes your cycling shoe. Go pick a random running or cross training shoe and tuck the laces in so they don't get caught in the chain.
>>
>>1717845
I don't wanna use clipless because 1/4the of my daily commute is through the town centre and I have to stop and start quite often

but holy fuck trying to keep my Dr Martins in the right place is fucking AWFUL

thanks anyway
>>
File: tektro_brake.jpg (25 KB, 463x741)
25 KB
25 KB JPG
What are the real advantages of dual pull over v brakes?
I can't seem to find any objective benefits when searching. Is it just that dual pull brakes look more premium?
>>
>>1717841
There are flat pedal specific shoes like Addias five tens, but they're overpriced memes. All you really need is some trainers with flat, semi-soft soles that will grip well to the pins on your flat pedals.
I've been using some cheap trainers almost identical to these as my cycling shoes for years, and my feet never slip off the pedals:
https://www.sportsdirect.com/adidas-adidas-vl-court-20-mens-trainers-163038#colcode=16303802
>>
>>1717858
I've been told all modern rim brakes work similarly well, but theoretically speaking from my understanding dual pivot caliper brakes eliminate force exerted on the seatstays or fork due to their center bolt attachment, whereas other brake designs (V-brakes, U-brakes, cantilever brakes) that are attached on either side will induce a slight amount of flex in surrounding parts that may reduce braking power. In return I think dual pivot brakes are primilarly designed and sold for road bikes and as such may have issues clearing the tire and/or reaching the braking surface on other bike designs, as well as performing particularly badly in terms of mud buildup in gravel and mountain biking.
>>
File: s-l1000.jpg (63 KB, 1000x1000)
63 KB
63 KB JPG
>>1717853
When the air started freezing my toes I switched to boots + half clips, worked fucking great except for them striking the ground sometimes.
>>
Anon who was planning a 45km first road trip here

There is no way I'm doing that any soon. The bike arrived, I just sat on it and I don't remember bike saddles being this uncomfortable lmao
I'll get used to it tho
>>
>>1717870
They're meant to be hard so you don't sink into them and put pressure in the wrong places. They're also not comfy when sitting still or coasting for a long time, when you pedal you put some of your weight on your feet. You will be sore the first few rides you do, but after a couple weeks it should feel comfy
>>
>>1717870
yeah, thats why most people wear cyclying shorts or have a padded saddle
Also adjust it not to ram fit your ass well
>>
I ride 20 miles 5 days a week as part of my weekly commute
I wanna do some long fun rides (50 miles+ ) on the week but I have no idea how to fit it into my schedule

is recovery something that's really important to manage or can I just do it? I remember pushing myself too hard when I was a runner and well I can't run anymore...
>>
File: FJIMG_20211009_090101.jpg (2.07 MB, 4032x3024)
2.07 MB
2.07 MB JPG
>>1717769
well. picking it up.
>>
>>1717883
Yeah recovery matters for cycling as well, you can definitely overdo it. In my experience eating then going to sleep immediately after work (asleep by 7) then waking up at midnight and riding for 5 hours then eating and getting a small nap in before work goes well.
>>
>>1717667
Bought a Surly Wednesday frame a while back. Can’t decide if I want to build it up or not for winter riding, mostly groomed singletrack.

Wheelsets are so fucking expensive for fat bike.
>>
File: IMG_20211009_130927.jpg (2.68 MB, 4160x2000)
2.68 MB
2.68 MB JPG
>>1717886
Right so I scavenged the old wheels off this while I wait for shit to arrive from overseas and now I am thinking about throwing the front caliper on the gt since it is straight forward, whats the worst shit that could happen from making a bracket for the rear caliper on a bike not designed for a disk brake on the rear?
>>
File: IMG_20211009_132749.jpg (1.84 MB, 2000x4160)
1.84 MB
1.84 MB JPG
>>1717904
Using these 2 holes? Because either way the disk is staying unless I drill the Allen key bolts out.
>>
File: Nishiki Tamarack.png (1.95 MB, 1806x935)
1.95 MB
1.95 MB PNG
Hello /n/ :DD
I'm a poorfag from the third world and my bicycle is a Nishiki Tamarack 20"(manufactured in 2016) that I bought used for approximately €170. This is the only bike that I own and I would love to know your opinion on my plan to upgrade my bike. I usually only buy parts when I break them but now I'm thinking about investing on upgrading my bike. The parts I'm planning to buy are:
>26" Wheelset (rim brakes, cassette hub on the rear wheel)
>Shimano CS-HG200-7 cassette
>Shimano CN-HG40 chain
>Shimano BB-UN101 square type bottom bracket
>Shimano FC-TY501 crankset (48/38/28T)
>Shimano FD-TY710-TS6 front derailleur
>Shimano SL-RS35-L left indexed shifter for f.d.
>Brake and Shifter Cables
This would cost around €140.
*I also never changed the chain and a year also passed since I lubricated it. My current issue is that the front wheel slightly wobbles a bit horizontally but it doesn't get it the way of the brake pads so whatever
¯\_(ツ)_/¯. I should get a new bike seat but I'm comfortable with the old one, maybe when the leather gets ripped I might get a better one.
>>
>>1717923
Don't do any of that. I know it is a easy urge to 'upgrade' a bike but even with those

Get a 'chain checker tool' and learn how to measure your chain. get some chain lube (not wd40) and apply it every 50 miles.

That's a capable comfort commuter and should serve you well many years in the future.

When the gripshifts get gummed up you can replace them with EZ fire thumbies
>>
>>1717923
those are just replacements, not upgrades. no point in getting them if the ones you have now still work
if you want an actual upgrade, get good tires
also get your front wheel trued
>>
>>1717853
Pinned flats are a significant increase in foot retention from norm flats. I recommend some fookers in your favorite color off Amazon
>>
>>1717938
They will also scuff up the soles of anons Docs.
>>
>>1717904
>whats the worst shit that could happen from making a bracket for the rear caliper on a bike not designed for a disk brake on the rear?
I don't know, but definitely keep us posted so I can have a good laugh at whatever you come up with.
>>
>>1717906
Aren’t those holes for the old style of disk brakes?
Even if not, it’ll be fine, they are on the leading edge of travel, so will be structurally sound (as the caliper has directed force into the dropout)
>>
>>1717692
Hello, I would like to try.
>>
>>1717923
honestly if u want to ride a bicycle u NEED about 5k to spend on a bike. if u then want to ride a different discipline u can then buy another bike for that discipline.
>>
File: dream bike.jpg (246 KB, 1582x1000)
246 KB
246 KB JPG
>>1717944
lol xD
if i could i would buy a GIANT PROPEL ADVANCED PRO 1 in a heartbeat
>>
Ok my girls, what is your opinion on old fashioned standard road gearing? You know the 52/42 chainrings and 11-28 cogs. I use more modern gearing with a much smaller 34t inner chainring and a 32t big cog on my main bike, but I'm building up a classic road bike as a faster ride (25c tires instead of 32c, no rack, much lighter frame), and I'm considering whether or not to keep the original ratios. The crankset it has is beautiful and i want to keep that, buy i could use a mtb cassette on my new rear wheel in order to get a reasonably low 42-34 low ratio. I just don't know if it would be too tacky to do that or not. What sort of gearing do the roadies here prefer for their try hard bike
>>
>>1717959
The common road chainring combinations are 53/39, 52/36, and 50/34. It used to be just 53/39 and before that it was 52/42 like you noted. I got into road bikes when 53/39 was the only option and I stuck to that until my last road bike from 2017. If I were building another road bike I would definitely go 52/36 or 50/34. But if the older crank you want to use for this bike comes 52/42, I'd leave that because it would probably look out of place if you put modern rings on it. Old cranks are so sexy. I just started working at a small community bike shop and there are some real gems buried in our used parts bins.
>>
>>1717923
Fuck all that and just buy some chain lube and a spoke wrench lmao.

What do you think you'll fix/improve by buying all that?
>>
>>1717923
Bike looks like the frame is too small for you; that seat shouldn't be nearly that far back, and it looks like you're trying to send those bars into orbit. Might be better to put that money towards a better fitting bike.

Also something has gone horribly wrong with your front brake cable setup.
>>
>>1717841
I ride in flats cause Im not rrally bothered by clipless and I have these big pinned mtb pedals. I ride in just normal 5tens that were suggested to me by /n/ actually and they are great or i put on my trail running shoes if i think my ride might get a little muddy
I notice basically no difference between them while riding. I choose the shoe based on where I will be walking during my ride (i,e if im gunna stop to go to a cafe or shop and just need normal trainers or am i gunna go down a gravel road and stop in a field for lunch etc)
Clipless is superior for power and control, you can get stiffer shoes that put across more of your power down more and you have greater control of the bike which is why even many trail bike riders use them, but if you cant be fucked with clipless just get something comfortable and suited to your terrain.
>>
>>1717959
>52/42 chainrings and 11-28 cogs
lol
how classic are we talking?
Because weekend warrior type roadies have always had straight gears at the top, so in the 7spd era, your common cassette was 12-23. 11-23 was 8spd, 11-25 was 9spd and 11-28 was 10spd.

In the 7/8spd era, roadies who rode real climbs favored a ~53/39/30 triple.

you'd be pushing 30x23 up a climb.
>>
>>1717967
To make the drivetrain of my bike feel brand new and get new wheels.The current wheels has spokes corroding and my current rear wheel has a threaded solid axle freewheel hub, which I heard that freewheel axles are more prone to bending compared to cassette hubs axles. Also my current front derailleur is bent and no matter what adjustment I do it just wont shift properly and when I took it to my local bike-shop they basically told me that it's hopeless. Basically my current front derailleur can't shift to a higher gear. I would love to get an indexed shifter for my front derailleur. I just don't like using friction shifters it's just too complicated for me to use.

I should have known better and maintain my bike properly but I didn't because I remained ignorant at the time. My mistakes that I realized are:
>putting grease on my chain
>never bothered about chain wear and still using the same chain for three years of daily use.
The things that I replaced because it broke or worn out:
>Crankset and Pedal (the pedal popped out of the crank while I was riding and the threads went kaput when that happened rendering both parts useless)
>The rear derailleur (also went kaput during midride, prolly because of metal fatigue). I basically bought the same part when it broke (Shimano TY300 7 speed R.D.)
>a pair of size 54-559 tires and inner tubes


>>1717969
Yeah the front brake cable is to long, idk why it is set up like that.
>>
>>1717977
>>1717979
>>1717982
Dude.
>>
>>1717982
Replacing worn/malfunctioning parts vs. upgrading are two different things. Post your chainrings and freewheel sprockets up close and we can judge wear.
Freewheel is fine unless you're super heavy or do jumps (or the axle is THAT cheap). I have thousands of miles on 7 and 8 speed freewheels and I'm about 190 lbs. You can remove your rear axle with a cone wrench to inspect for bending, and you can service your bearings too. If the races are pitted THEN that would justify a new wheel.
Bottom end components (tourney) will generally behave like trash. You might want to see if there's an altus/acera/claris/microshift R8 triple FD you can try. Your might have fucked up your crankset chainline too if the new crankset doesn't match your bottom bracket length, making the big ring too far from the FD, thus unable to shift into it. Check the distance from the middle ring to the center of the bike. I think it should be something like 43-44 mm but there are guides online.
>>
>>1717972
Classic enough it had a 6 speed freewheel in back, not a cassette lol. There's a lot of 8+% climbs where i live, and i can do most of them on my main bike in 34x25 just fine, but I'm a bit nervous to try with 42x28. If I were to go up to 32t in back it would work out to the same ratio, but I'm worried that I'll look like a fucking pansy for having a 32t cog on a roadbike. I would get a new inner chainring for this crankset but it has a weird BCD that apparently only stronglight ever used. I'm kinda hoping the narrower tires + lighter build make up for the difference between 34x25 that I'm used to and 42x28, but i may just be a retard
>>
>>1717940
Will do bud in all honesty I'm half expecting the green carbon bike of mine to split like the titanic when I do a sick jump or something. I used to do bmx racing when I was a youngling and then did park bmx in my teens so I am fully used to eating shit while biking.

>>1717942
Maybe? I doubt it though way too close compared to what are on the forks and the fact that there are identical holes on the other side.
>>
>>1717942
>>1717991
Those are rack/fender holes.
>>
File: $_59.jpg (158 KB, 960x636)
158 KB
158 KB JPG
5'3" turbomanlet here. Found pic rel on local eBay for 100€. It's a 26" Univega Alpina 501 in great condition but according to the seller, the frame size is around 14/15" (~40cm) - would this be too small for me?

I recently road a Specialized Stumpjumper from 2004 with a frame size of 19" which was much too big for me.
>>
>>1717959
11-28 wasn't a thing, I don't think. Wide range freewheels were 14-32 or 13-32, but the jumps sucked ass, and shifting was terrible unless you had Suntour. More racing-oriented stuff would be 13-19, 12-21, that sort of thing, often with a 54 or 55 up front. Way way back in the day people would have something like 50/47 so that they could manage the jumps a bit better. Some people would have a triple with a 24t small chainring to bail them out on climbs, then they'd have to get off and reset the chain when they were done climbing.

I have a bunch of different setups, from 6sp to 12sp with everything in between. The 6sp is 52/42 x 13-26 Suntour Sprint and it's nice but my knees appreciate lower gearing on some of the big hills around here. 52/36 x 11-32 12sp is ideal except that it gets out of whack a little too often. Not a big deal because a twist of the barrel adjuster fixes it, but I think that it's just a little too far past the envelope of what mechanical shifting can do. 9sp rear is a happy medium, I really like my 53/39 x 12-27 Shimergo setup, though I will move to a subcompact 48/32 up front as I get older and more useless.
>>
Ok, someone explain shimano (possibly all shifters but I've only looked at shimano) groupsets to me. Unless I'm missing something they're all the same min/max teeth limits (except possibly the top end components but even the lower ones seem to be getting options for those teeth numbers) so what exactly is the difference. How is it worth hundreds more to have an extra cog mixed into your cassette that you're not going to notice.
>>
>>1718008
It's mostly not. If you are that good then you have better control of your cadence with every speed but most people aren't. Shifts are faster/"crisper" (subjective) with the nicer groupsets. Main other advantage is weight. It feels like they could build derailleurs etc lighter in the lower groupsets but they put extra weight there so it follows the hierarchy. Kind of like how Canon/Nikon leave out the most basic features that cost nothing for them to add at the lowest level of DSLR.
>>
>>1718008
Lets you keep your cadence more consistent. If you've already got a bike with less speeds and you never feel like you wish you had gears in between the ones you have, then don't worry about it.

Also higher tiers are lighter and work a little better (quicker shifting, grabbier brakes)
>>
>>1718001
Frame "size" isn't really standardized, especially across brands and years, so it's hard to say but it's probably in the ballpark at least. Can you go over and take a test ride?
>>
File: univega4chan.jpg (863 KB, 1873x1269)
863 KB
863 KB JPG
>>1718015
>Can you go over and take a test ride?
Yep, gonna give it a spin in a couple of hours, seller lives pretty close to me. Kinda excited tbdesu, looks like a fun ride and worth the money. I just hope it's not gonna look/fit like a kid's bike.
>>
>>1718021
Oh, anon, I wanna give you a hug,
>>
File: 1631197822409.png (565 KB, 639x480)
565 KB
565 KB PNG
>>1718001
>>1718015
>manlet bonding
>>
>>1717860
I like Converse/Vans for when I ride fixed in the straps. Otherwise trail running shoes are nice when off-roading as some anon mentioned.
>>
>>1717952
You don't need 5k to get a decent new bike, anything with Sora or even Tiagra and alloy frame(+carbon fork) will be relatively cheap
>>
Browsing /n/ has given me an unhealthy penchant for cheap comfort bikes and/or hybrids and/or BSO and/or commuter bikes.
Something about them makes me want them. Makes me want to ride them daily. Make me want to beat the shit out of them in all manner of foul weather and not even caring.

I should be salivating over carbon road rockets and ultra expensive gravel tourers but instead I'm saving pics like this in my computer.
What's wrong with me? How do I fix this?
>>
>>1718045
That's how it starts anon and then before you know it you're paying 11 grand to murder some top end Trek and bury its corpse out back.
>>
Speaking of comfort bikes, what does /n/ think of picrel?
Having the cranks forward seems like a way to have your cake and eat it too.
>proper leg extension
>while having low saddle height
>easy on/off
>ability to go down steep descents without adjusting saddle height
>ability to go off jumps/do wheelies without adjusting saddle height

Seems like a win/win
>>
>>1718045
>What's wrong with me? How do I fix this?
I don't know, but that's weird and you should feel bad.
>>
>>1718049
Those bikes handle like shit if you're trying to do anything other than leisurely cruise around.
>>
File: LOW RIDER FREERIDE.jpg (364 KB, 1280x720)
364 KB
364 KB JPG
>>1718049
>can't stand on the pedals without having to balance your weight virtually over the handlebar, therefore can't even mount a curb, much less go down bumpy descents standing up or go off jumps
The more recumbent you are, the more barriers appear in the world.
>>
>>1718052
Ach, there was a catch after all.
Good thing Sam Pilgrim made a video of it.
>>
>>1718061
I mean, maybe it would work better if the bottom bracket was at the end of the seat tube and the handlebar was further forward, not all that way forward, but even then I'm still not entirely sure about it.
>>
File deleted.
>>1718008
Road is more or less like that. As it goes past 9 cogs, it loses features, too.
>Tourney
7sp BSO crap. Shifters have asstastic thumb buttons instead of STI.
>Claris R2000
8sp, similar design as 11sp, pull ratio compatible with 8sp MTB and all other Shimano 8sp ever, has STI, trigger shifters, downtube shifters, short & medium cage RDs, available triple.
>Sora R3000
Same as Claris but 9sp. Officially no downtube or barcon shifters but you can use 9sp Dura Ace components for that or 3rd party stuff. Shimano 9sp may still be the most widespread so there are lots of quality 3rd party components and parts.
>Tiagra 4700
10sp, not compatible with any other Shimano 10sp groupset, including old 105/Ultegra/DA, because 4700 uses the 11sp pull ratio. But it's not compatible with 11sp stuff. Has available hydraulic disc brakes. No downtubies.
>105 R7000, Ultegra R8000, Dura Ace R9000/R9100
11sp. Drops trigger shifters and triple, still has barcons. 105 left shifter has reliability issues due to cheaper materials. Ultegra/DA has Di2 electronic option. Dura Ace is more expensive than Ultegra because lighter materials save you half as much weight as having a good hard piss. Mainly, DA is bling for high-end builds.
>Ultegra R8100 and Dura Ace R9200
12sp, electronic only. Shimano thinks mechanical is dead for racing, but they're hedging by continuing to manufacture R8000. Or at least trying to.

MTB is a clusterfuck:
>Tourney
MTB flavored shit. There are even lower grades of Tourney that go onto BSOs so Shimano can slap their logo on Shart*Mart turds to make them seem more legit.
>Alivo/Acera/Altus
7-9sp. Generally reliable.
>Deore/SLX/XT/XTR
10-12 speed. There are lots of nuances but the main thing is that as you go up in price, weight goes down. XT/XTR shifters change the shifting action a bit to where the shift happens right as you click the shifter, not when you release. They also add an electronic option.
>Zee/Saint
10sp, downhill-specific.
>>
I can't find tyres that are 29x2.25
>>
>>1718069
zee germans have tires:
https://www.bike24.com/mtb-tires-29-inch.html?menu=1000%2C1868%2C1951%2C103%2C212&__qf_form-filter=&pgc%5B177%5D%5B841%5D=1
>>
>>1718045
Watched a lot of Kev Central shilling walmart bikes lately and I'd have thought it would at least put some ideas in my head, but I still can't understand why anyone would voluntarily spend money on something where absolutely every part lies somewhere between "barely functional" and "actually broken".
>>
>>1718045
idk I wish I could go that direction because every time I go to spec out my n+1 for next year it inevitably tops $10k, not that it matters because there will be no parts or frames or anything and I'll be too busy defending my canned tuna from raiders to care about bikes
>>
New janny is doing just great.
>>
>>1717866
>other brake designs (V-brakes, U-brakes, cantilever brakes) that are attached on either side will induce a slight amount of flex in surrounding parts
That makes sense, maybe that's why they're not used on bikes with carbon forks.
Also the tiny holes for cantilever/vbrake bosses seem like they would difficult to make out of carbon, perhaps that's another reason why dual pivot brakes with their single large mounting bolt is preferred by road bike manufacturers.
>>
i dunno what to look for in tyres and what ones to get broskis
>>
File: 1617471825545.jpg (61 KB, 1000x800)
61 KB
61 KB JPG
>>1718083
Get ones made of rubber.
>>
>>1718084
pepe pls
>>
>>1718068
What do you think, is 9spd Deore compatible with 9spd road shifter (Sora)? Is 9spd Alivio as well?
Both RD are shadow design
>>
File: pgak0.jpg (53 KB, 1366x768)
53 KB
53 KB JPG
>>1718086
Get ones that are round
>>
alright tyrebros, Maxxis Crossmark 2s, are they good? I won't be racing, just going along pretty shit pavement with cracks and rocks and debris, some road and mostly hills.
>>
Also do I get the same tyre for the front as the back?
>>
>>1718094
Oh, no, you should never do that
>>
>>1718095
Then how do I determine my front and rear tyres? I'm half tempted to go into a shop and ask them.
>>
File: manlet_bikefit_res.jpg (3.76 MB, 4000x1849)
3.76 MB
3.76 MB JPG
>>1718015
>>1718023
>>1718026
Lads, I got it. Feels very comfy, super sturdy, fun to ride and much much safer than the Stumpjumper I tried a couple of days ago.

I'm too retarded to take proper photos, but from the looks, it seems to fit just right.

Waddya think?
>>
>>1718103
>those shoes
oh nonononono hahaaha no one tell him
>>
File: fragekatze.jpg (46 KB, 500x375)
46 KB
46 KB JPG
>>1718104
*ahem* What is wrong with my shoes Anon?
>>
>>1718103
>Rear reflector completely blocked by fender
Take those off, the dork disc, and the retard leg, and you got yourself a handsome bike.
>>
>>1717990
28 already looks wrong
don't worry about it
the real issue is losing your close steps at the top end.
the ideal solution for classic gearing as i said is to run a triple.
>>
>>1718105
>he doesn't know
>>
>>1717885
are you riding a tt bike with chink platforms?
>>
>>1717990
also, 42x28 is still a tall gear. it's not about 'fine'. Ideally you have fucking low as fuck gears, and that's standard shit serious riders ride now too so you don't need to feel like a bitch about the want for it.

I think a road bike should be geared to do ftp up 10% and that's not for a leglet, if you don't want it you're a topographylet.
>>
>>1718103
I like that color.
>>
File: 1633788867559.jpg (100 KB, 1200x800)
100 KB
100 KB JPG
What’s a decent bike helmet that also isn’t ugly?

I tried looking online but they only have really dorky ones (pic related with the light lmao) or extremely expensive ones
>>
>>1718113
for comfort and how it proportionally looks on your head and being caught between sizes it's really something you have to try on in person
>>
>>1718113
Specialized Align II. Very high safety rating for the price.
>>
>>1718114
Then any good brands to look out for / Bad ones to avoid?
>>
>>1718116
for me, it's the Giro Savant, but thats probably not your level
>>
>>1718113
helmets are only for retards that pay no attention to their surroundings
>>
File: 1633793218106.jpg (119 KB, 1024x849)
119 KB
119 KB JPG
>wearing a helmet
>>
>>1717959
on my daily driver city build in hilly-ass Atlanta, my bike came stock with classic 144 bcd 52/42 crank and a 6 speed freewheel. it wasn't a straight block though, it was like 14-28?
I tinkered with the gearing and finally ended up with compact 50/34 crank and 14-34 cassette, perfect for climbs while hauling 3 weeks worth of groceries.

that said, if I was trying to build a fast bike, I don't think I would have touched the gearing. 52/14 was fast, and 52/11 would be really fast but I wouldn't ever use it in the stop-start, 90° turns city
>>
>>1718068
it is crazy to me that people know this shit off the top of their head.
I salute you, anon
>>
>>1718049
you just can't put down your max power when you want it. this is the source of all the "recumbents can't climb" bantz
but, if you don't care about that, then so what; go for it
>>
>>1718083
he's trolling you since there is no way to answer your question without you supplying the type of bike you have and the type of terrain you ride, and wheel size
>>
>>1718103
cool
>>
>>1718151
I have an MTB, wheel size is 29".
I ride along my city paths mostly and some grassy/bumpy tree areas, although my city paths are kind of shit and have holes and rocks.
>>
>>1718155
Go on the continental website, use the categories at the top to select your riding style, and then just either buy the ones it gives you or look for ones with a similar tread pattern from a different manufacturer
https://www.continental-tires.com/bicycle/tires
>>
>>1718133
but those guys are wearing helmets
>>
>>1717667
Bro that bike looks sick where do I buy one? Wait why is the seat so far back. Wtf
>>
>>1718045
You escaped from the jewish marketing and realised that your masculine spirit craves sturdy tools that can be thrown around, not plastic toys that snap in half.
Welcome home.
>>
File: file.png (598 KB, 1500x750)
598 KB
598 KB PNG
>>1717871
>>1717879
I already own one of these grandma saddles and have some Decathlon cycling pants but it still hurts like I'm getting impaled. I'm extremely heavy though, currently working hard on losing weight. Does it ever stop hurting this much?
>>
is width 2.25 the same as 2.5 for practical purposes
>>
>>1718171
Mountain bike tires?
>>
>>1718175
yea
>>
>>1718167
the granny saddle is the problem
>>
>>1717675
>>1717804
Not him but Specialized and Trek are all way overpriced for what you get. Giant and Cannondale are both a better value and I would defy you to explain the tangible improvement for the premium price.
>>
How much money do people here spend on cycling? I feel reckless for spending almost $1.5k this year on building up a couple bikes and buying more jerseys and shit, but I'm a richfag so that's only about 1/100th my income. Am i a retard for spending that much or should i stop worrying about it? I have basically no other hobbies that cost money other than drinking, and I don't travel so really i guess its maybe ok to spend that much on my only real hobby?
>>
>>1718083
>>1718093
Get Kenda tires and you'll be set for 10,000 km
>>
Restoring a thrift shop bike. The crank bolt on there seems to have been tightened by Satan himself. Is there a way to bypass removing the crank and remove the bottom bracket?
>>
Just got a new road bike after not really riding for a long time. Is it standard to have to really wrench the front derailleur shifter over to get it to work properly. I've tried it several times and if I just click it normally like the rear one, it'll shift over but the chain will start rubbing. I've gone over adjusting the derailleurs for a straight hour and no matter how I position it the chain rubs unless I really crank that shifter.
>>
>>1718204
no
just use a long pipe for extra leverage
>>
>>1718206
Tried that, still couldn’t get it off. I even went at it with an impact driver.
>>
>>1718208
It's not some retarded left hand threaded thing is it? Post pics.
>>
>>1718205
a lot of front derailleurs require multiple clicks to shift the big ring, usually two, sometimes three. this is to allow small adjustments depending on where the chain is sitting on the cassette, to avoid rubbing, usually on the big-big or big-small combinations
>>1718208
heat it up? soak in penetrating oil?
other than that just angle grind the sucker off
>>
>>1718208
if you're willing to sacrifice the bottom bracket and crank then take a hacksaw and cut the bb spindle
>>
>>1717870
>>1718167
you’re not meant to lay your weight on it, you stupid retard, you keep the pressure off the saddle by pushing on the pedals
ride in proper cadence and gear, cycling is not a sedentary activity
>>
>>1718218
two different people you're quoting
>>
>>1718218
I'm trying but I'm like 320lbs and broke my leg 3 months ago, but thanks anyway
>>
>>1718113
I'd never buy a helmet online. Gotta go try those on in person and look in a mirror.
>>
>>1718220
*retards
>>
How do I know that a 9 or 10 gear cassette will fit onto my diy trekking ebike that currently has a 7 gear cassette and is it worth it upgrading?
Other question: what is the difference between a chain for 7 vs 9 gears, is the latter thinner? I need a very very solid chain that can last a long time
>>
>>1718232
go with 8 speeds: cheaper cassetes, cheaper chains too, also indexed shifting is a meme, you are not a racer.
>>
>>1718232
somebody else will probably answer definitively, but the spacing between the rear dropouts changes at a certain point. it gets wider at 8 or 9. if your frame is steel you can widen it safely but alu or garbon no way.
>>
>>1718241
>indexed shifting
as opposed to?

I currently have shimano Altus shifters / derailleur on it, it feels a bit too plasticky for the power that it is confronted with, no idea what to upgrade to though...

>>1718242
it looks like it could fit some more gears in the back but I'm not sure how I can find out for sure. it's alu afaik so no widening possible
>>
>>1718223
>I'd never buy a helmet online. Gotta go try those on in person and look in a mirror.

or you do the more based thing go in during covid try on all the helmets tell them you need to think about it then save 20 percent ordering it online. get fucked boomer lbs
>>
>>1718205
yes you have to push it a farther distance. unless your shifters or cables are gummed it shouldn't take any extra force per se. When you click it over you will need to use "trim" to adjust the derailleur depending on where on your rear cassette it is. "trim" is that little half click you hear when you push over the left STI but the chain doesnt move.

2x front deraileurs are better than 3x because they have 'trim'. while electronic shifting is cool because it automatically does the 'trim'.
>>
>>1718202
I've probably spent $3000 in cycling over 3 years, but sold parts and used bikes for about $1800. While that is less than you I am a poor fag, and that cost is not spread even over 3 years. But even as a poor fag that's not that much money on something you like to do.

$1500 over a year on your hobby isn't that much, money is a tool and it sounds like you used it to bromg yourself pleasure. Just be mindful of not being a consumerist. Are you using the things you buy? Or are you just enjoying buying them?

I recommend trying to flip we.bikes if you've got a big parts collection, it's very fulfilling almost not very profitable.
>>
>>1718202
How do you have the mental capacity to have a job that makes $150,000 a year yet you don't understand how to budget your personal finances?
>>
File: 20211008_172207.jpg (2.22 MB, 3264x2448)
2.22 MB
2.22 MB JPG
Can anyone help me ID these brakes? Pulled from an early 90s Marin but they may be a later addition. Ritchey Logic pads with no branding on the actual cantilevers
>>
>>1717722
>>1717698
>>1717695
Anon, the key thing you need to look for is a disc wheel with a 100x12 hub (100mm width for 12mm thru-axle) for centerlock disc rotor mounting. The other standard kind of rotor mount is '6-bolt' and that would work on your bike without any issues if you also got a 6-bolt rotor to match (note that if you do go this route, you'd also need to match the rotor diameter, either 160mm or 140mm, and this will be stamped on your stock rotor). Essentially any 700c wheel with that standard hub spacing will work as long as it's advertised as being a road bike wheel - the potential incompatibility that you probably don't need to worry about is that there are 700c wheels sold for gravel and mountain bikes ("29er") that will have wider rims, and so while they have the same diameter they won't be a good match for your narrower road bike tires.
>>
.>1717959
>>1717990
Old fashioned road gearing is still fine if you're a rider with a good power to weight ratio. That's really all it comes down to: either you have the strength and weight to be happy with a 42x25 low gear or you don't and you'll be straining yourself and at an increased risk of injury as a result. If you only have one bike, ignore looks and install whatever gearing is appropriate for your strength and terrain. If keeping a bike original is a priority for you then your best option may be to have 2 fast bikes, one classic machine that you save for special or flatter riders, and one newer that you don't feel bad about sticking low, low modern gears on.

>>1718049
If you charted bikes on a spectrum with TT bikes on one end (rider weight directly over the cranks) and recumbents on the other, that kind of comfort bike would be placed next to the beach cruisers, just one small step closer to hybrids and mountain bikes. The weight distribution of the rider means they're never going to be good at anything but leisurely cruising.
>>
>>1718088
up until 10 speed, Shimano's road and mountain groups (except for DA 7400) used the same cable pull ratios, so you can use those shifters and derailers interchangeably.

>>1718094
Yes, same tires front and back outside of some mountain biking applications where it makes sense to have more traction in the front, or exceptions like Conti's Force/Attack f/r specific tires.
>>
>>1718264
they're the stock Marin Lite meme brakes which apparently used to crack quite often.

pretty cool, i'd re-use
>>
>>1718167
Like first anon said, the granny saddle is likely the problem. I wouldn't expect anyone at 300lb pounds to be totally comfortable because you're simply putting a lot of pressure on a small area, but if that saddle is either too narrow or too wide for your hipbones then it's going to be uncomfortable regardless of your weight. That said, there's not a simple answer to say which saddle is going to work best for you, but if you imagine different shaped saddles as triangles, ones that are more acute are better for riding when leaning forward, while broad saddles (think tractor seat) are good for sitting bolt upright. Once you know what shape you need, you'll want to try out different widths of saddle to find the right one for you.
>>
>>1718204
soak it for a while, but until you strip the bolt or your socket explodes you're simply not applying enough torque.

get good
>>
>>1718088
be careful about deleting the barrell adjuster from your system. road has them on the mech, mtb on the shifter. If you don't have one on your frame then you want to look for a 9spd mtb mech with a barrell adjuster, because the add on ones are finnickity.
>>
>>1718255
I ride a lot, and i am not buying consoomer stuff, just rebuilding a lot of old road bikes. I could probably sell one or two of them at a profit since I bought one of them at a thrift shop for nothing and got the other from a relative who had it rotting in a garage for 30 years. Mainly i just spent money on nice wheels, tires, redoing gearing,nice cranks and all. A lot of my expenses were also tools so thats a one time cost really. I have been riding almost daily for years but it was always cheap alu hybrids that I'd ride into the ground and then replace, it wasn't until this year that I started doing rides longer than 50 miles and rebuilding bikes myself. I guess it really isn't that much money to have spent, especially not for putting together 2 really nice bikes and a beater, but i just have a phobia of spending money so i end up just investing a ton and stacking gold and silver. I should probably reevaluate my life but the truth is I'm a poorfag at heart i just happen to be very very good at data analysis and i lucked out on my job
>>
>>1718285
>i just happen to be very very good at data analysis
What does that actually involve? I'm very visual and hands-on and it's hard for me to imagine what a job like that actually entails.
>>
>>1718262
I mean i live in a trailer park and spend about $20k a year i never intended to be rich it just kinda happened and i don't know how to live like a rich person, my family is poor and i give them some money but i never really knew what to do if I got rich. It's like i could buy fancy cars or something, it just seems so wasteful
>>
>>1718287
That's cool, anon. I respect that.
>>
>>1718171
Depends on how particular you are - do you think 57mm and 63mm are close enough to be considered the same for practical purposes?

>>1718202
You're fine, and if you're making that much income why are you stressing about spending that's clearly within your means? Also, cost is relative - for a long time I spent a much larger percentage of my income in absolute terms on bikes than you do, but I also didn't own a car and was in the habit of acquiring tools and other bikes to flip and resell so it made sense at the time. Also, the expense of cycling as a hobby naturally tends to vary from year to year unless you're buying new bikes and expensive kit on a regular basis since quality stuff tends to last. My own personal spending numbers are not very useful to mention here because I work in the industry, but I think if I'd paid full retail last year I would have spent about $1,250, mainly on tires, pedals, and real fancy shoes that I expect to last for 5+ years, and that was a relatively expensive year by my standards.
>>
>>1718286
I work with data scientists at a company that does consulting work and basically i help determine what feature engineering approaches will work well for them and to understand how much noise is in a dataset, are there systematic biases in any direction for certain features, and if it's high dimensionality data are there any features that are highly correlated so we can do PCA. Sometimes doing PCA to reduce feature space also helps a lot with noise so i investigate that too. We have a bunch of python libraries we maintain that are built on top of pandas/numpy/scipy and I do a bunch of work to keep those working and then i build jupyter notebooks to actually investigate things and generate plots and those notebooks are my main output. I also sometimes work with our ETL guys when they need help. Sometimes I help put together plots for evaluating model performance, like PDP and the like. Usually the data "scientists" like to do that though so they can bullshit more
>>
>>1718293
Haha, I appreciate you taking the time to explain, but that's all still Greek to me.
>>
>>1718232
Measure the width of your hub from locknut to locknut - if it's 126mm then you're limited to 7-sp only unless you swap the freehub body and respace the hub. If it's 130mm then it will take 8, 9, and 10 speed cassettes (plus some 11-sp and also 7-sp cassettes with an extra spacer). If you want to know ALL the details read this page:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html
>>
>>1718298
Basically if you want to try to do what I do learn basic scripting in python, then learn the py data stack (pandas, numpy, scipy, sklearn, etc.). The best way to get all that on your computer is to use conda, if you download miniconda and then use it to manage everything things work out. Fuck trying to use any of the other python dependency management tooling and especially fuck pipenv. Also learn how to make plots. You can do that easily interactively in jupyter. I like altair for plotting if it's s smaller amount of data. Lots of data and you're better off with seaborn. I'd recommend focusing mainly on the fundamentals of what sorts of things to plot, worry less about the actual tool, just get used to reading documentation and searching for help on stackoverflow. You don't have to be w great programmer or know a lot about computers,just don't get frustrated when things don't work and get good at searching the internet for help.
>>
I think I need a new bike. I keep crushing my balls on the top bar and seat. Maybe it’s too tall. I think I’ve smashed my sack more times in the past month than I have in the remainder of my life. I hope I can still have children.
>>
>>1718308
if you lean over slightly you reduce the distance between yourself and the ground when you step off
>>
>>1718278
Thank you, based boomer. I kneel
>>
>>1718308
>I keep crushing my balls on the top bar and seat.
equating the two means you probably just don't know how to ride
>>
>>1718188
I think Spesh & Rekt are fairly competitive at every price point. For instance, if you're looking for a hybrid, there's the Escape, FX, Quick, and Sirrus. At around the $1k price point, you get a decent Shimano drivetrain and decent Shimano or Tektro hydraulic disc brakes. I think that Terk has the best value at $899 for the FX3 with Deore, while the Giant Escape 3 is $930, Quick 3 is $1k, and Spesh trails the pack in value at $1100 for the Sirrus 3. Amazing how they're all 3s. No collusion there, nope.

Looking at the "entry level" $4,200 Crux vs the $4,000 Super Six Evo CX, they're pretty samey in spec. The Crux has Rival instead of Force, but it has a proper BSA bottom bracket and can use normal wheels instead of Cdale AI. The Giant TCX Advanced Pro 1 and Kert Boone are similar, with GRX-810 for $4k, tho the Boone uses T47 and a round seatpost. So, the Crux uses components one tier down from the rest, but the value prop is "no proprietary shit." It's odd, though, my n+1 is going to be something like one of those, and the Crux ticks every box in my requirements, but I want a Colnago G3-X way more.

The bigger problem is that it seems like a good mid-tier bike that is nicely equipped is now $4000. Since they're easily selling every one they can make, they will bump the prices up even more, regardless of how the Great Shortage of Everything plays out. Entry level bikes are expensive as it is for someone who just wants to get some rubber underneath them, but when a bike that's a proper step up from entry level is such a giant leap in price, it's pretty disheartening. It makes me wonder if the industry is going to see real growth in ridership, or if their quest to drain the wallets of current Freds is going to wind up turning away potential Freds.
>>
File: nuts.gif (355 KB, 220x220)
355 KB
355 KB GIF
>>1718308
learn ancient chinese art of drawing balls into body. circulate your qi properly! your merdians jammed with shit
>>
>>1718316
>It makes me wonder if the industry is going to see real growth in ridership, or if their quest to drain the wallets of current Freds
The future is even bleaker than you imagine. Are you ready to see bike shops competing with motorcycle dealers who are carrying e-bikes?
>>
>>1718320
Yeah, and the motorcycle dealerships will fail because they're not equipped to handle the sort of stupidity and autism that walks through the doors of LBSes day in and day out.
>>
>>1718323
motorcycle dealers get it worse I'd imagine. the kind of people who want to go fast and are probably half drunk are way more annoying than meek weirdos who just want to get to work
>>
why is there so little info on removing the branding from brake cable housing? i got some shimano m-system which was cut from a bulk roll and the logo is repeated excessively. i saw one comment on a different brand of cable housing which mentioned removing them with acetone but do you have any info to add to this, will the acetone partially eat through the black part as well and make it look fucked up?
>>
>>1718340
It might dull the area but shouldn't fuck it up unless you fuck it up.
>>
>>1718341
ok and maybe i can polish the whole housing to solve the dulling and maybe it will integrate better with the rest of my bike if the cable is glossier
>>
>>1718342
I would try simply scraping it off with a new razorblade.
>>
>>1718325
>meek weirdos who just want to get to work
you must not be a burger
>>
>>1718349
cyclists are meek lad
>>
>>1718282
Yes, that is part of my dilemma, Alivio has barrel adjuster, Deore needs an addon
>>
File: Capture.png (926 KB, 802x762)
926 KB
926 KB PNG
OH NONONONO ABSOLUTEBROS, IT'S ALL OVER NOW
>>
>>1718340
Every time I've bought cable, including shimano, I've had to go out of my way to cut it so there'd be a visible logo somewhere (so I'd remember what kind it was next time) . Just live with it, it's not like cables are attractive in the first place.
>>
>>1718366
but this one is crazy like literally once every 6 inches
>>
File: 1399257608440.jpg (44 KB, 306x328)
44 KB
44 KB JPG
>>1718350
>he thinks american bike shops cater to cyclists
>>
>>1718316
Always been a Specialized guy but as it stands I've been priced out of buying anything in the future. The price of the Crux went from 3k to 4 k within one year, ridiculous. The entry level e-MTB is now almost 6k. Who is supposed to afford this? The differences to other brands are negilible in my opinion.

That said the shortage claims are mostly bullshit. I know three guys who wanted new bikes this year an each of them got what he wanted after calling a dozen dealers. Nothing fancy just mid-level stuff.

In general the industry doesn't really know where it wants to go. Anything electric is obviously the future but looking at the pricing most people can't and will not afford this unless they make owing a car even more epensive.
>>
>>1718352
the alivio shadow mechs are good
the difference is the jockey wheels don't have bearings and the cage will develop slop quicker

they're well worth using and if you want something really good look out for a good cond older non-shadow XT or XTR mech with a barrell adjuster
>>
File: 1602738304590.jpg (16 KB, 399x400)
16 KB
16 KB JPG
not really a question but a blog
I bought my first set of lycra despite being a commuter because I was getting really sweaty cycling to my job
I'm kinda embarrased now, every single person who overtakes me is going to think "ahahaha what a loser" and every wagie is going to think "what a cunt"
>>
>>1718437
what did u do before the Lycra anon? I ride to work in the tropics and its HOT but luckily I leave home at 5am so it's not too bad.
>>
>>1718441
my work clothes
yeah I don't want to be a stinky bastard and I don't want to go so slow that I don't sweat either
>I ride to work in the tropics and its HOT but luckily I leave home at 5am so it's not too bad.
Thankfully the UK is pretty chill which makes cycling in normal clothes not a problem, but there's only so much the environment can do
>>
>>1718443
yeah going in work clothes doesn't seem real smart. I go in board shorts and a casual shirt and then change at work but I'm not bashful so I literally do it on the street outside. I hate wearing a backpack for the shirt and trousers though
>>
>>1718437
they already think that, dumb frogposter
might as well be comfortable
>>
File: 1632640074496.gif (7 KB, 317x246)
7 KB
7 KB GIF
>>1718167
>>
>>1718167
>>
>>1718167
>>
>>1718491
>>
>>1718455
you know what
that has made me feel much better about the situation, thanks anon
>>
>>1718287
you're definitely gonna make it.
the "real" old money rich people I know don't spend a lot above just having things that aren't cheap. their stuff is nice and live in a nice neighborhood but nothing showy, normal sized house. the lawyer is expected to look a certain way so he has a rolex and a bmw for the office but his wife (who has her own old money wealth) just drives a station wagon and made her idiot son take the bmw he bought with her money back to the dealership
>>
>>1718308
if you can't stand flat-footed over the bike without the top tube crowding or crushing your balls, your bike is definitely too big. if you crush your balls on a bike that fits you then you're just clumsy?
>>
Are expensive tires a meme?
I could get a set for 15 off some guy, or ardents for 90 off ebay
>>
>>1718513
no. good tires are one of the best upgrades you can give your bike. the difference is very noticeable.
>>
File: 61K5u5gTjAS._AC_SL1200_.jpg (80 KB, 1200x800)
80 KB
80 KB JPG
Is there any downside to putting fenders on a bike besides weight? I was thinking of getting a ZiZZO Via as a do-it-all trunk bike because it comes with fenders.
>>
>>1718567
ugly if it doesn't match frame or accents
>>
>>1718570
>>1718567
Would rocks/mud getting stuck between the tire and the fender be a problem if riding on dirt roads?
>>
hydraulic brakes in the rear basically have no stopping power, and sqeak at low speeds. doesn't sound like metallic squeaking. are my pads glazed or does this sound like something else?
>>
>>1718573
Might be glazed, might be contaminated.
>>
>>1718490
My wife has banned me from saying "sit bones" anymore, now that she has a correctly built saddle instead of her old 5lb bean bag made of gel.
>>
>>1717906
>>
>>1716994
This was my post in the prior BQG. I took my bike (Trek Checkpoint) to the trek shop I bought it from since I didn't feel like messing with it. They insisted I needed a new headset which for whatever genius reason is a fucking Madone headset. So they ordered a Madone headset upper ($80) and lower bearings ($30). My buddy told me its pretty much impossible to damage the cups and I probably just need bearings.

This is the $80 part.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-components/factory-overstock/trek-madone-factory-overstock-top-half-headset/p/24615/

Should I go back and tell them I just want the bearings? What are the odds I need new everything?
>>
>>1718605
It wouldn't hurt to ask, but they're probably just selling you what they have available currently since lots of bearing sizes are hard to find these days.
>>
File: 1623651497185.jpg (42 KB, 640x633)
42 KB
42 KB JPG
>>1718437
On the plus side, some worthless anonymous degenerates on the internet like you more now
>>
File: Coffee.jpg (8 KB, 226x166)
8 KB
8 KB JPG
New to bikes other than riding a lot when younger. Need something I can jump along mountain trails and dirt parks.

Not broke, but don't want to spend too much either.
>>
>>1718594
Based. No more lycranigger euphemisms.

sit bones -> ass bones
soft tissues -> benis
>>
>>1718619
>don't want to spend too much either.
That's super vague. How much is too much for you? Be more specific and try /bbg/.
>>
>>1718619
Trek Marlin 5 or 6 (not 4). $700-$800.
>>
>>1718625
Thanks, that looks perfect.
>>
>>1718621
>no more euphemisms
>benis
>>
File: 1611675473321.jpg (8 KB, 199x169)
8 KB
8 KB JPG
>>1718631
That's the correct medical term.
>>
>>1718596
Neat so my plan isn't super retarded.
>>
>>1718695
Yes it is. That brake mount adapter is nicely machined and probably puts the brake precisely where it needs to be in relation to the rotor. Good luck making that.
>>
>>1718567
Having a trunk bike is based as fuck.
The only major downside of fenders are that they tend to be the first to get mangled when you inevitably crash your bike or when you stuff shit on top of it in the trunk.
The benefits of them far outweigh the negatives though.
>>
Question on toe overlap. I've had road bikes with it and it's been fine. But now I have a CX bike I take on singletrack and while I don't kill myself I would be more at ease without toe overlap.

Is there anything practical I can do to fix this? I was planning on first smaller tires, then shorter cranks. But what about a new fork? Assuming I take the time to measure out what I need, would a fork that puts the wheel father forward ruin my handling much? (Sorry I don't know the correct terms, I think I mean a fork with more rake?)
>>
File: file.png (1.73 MB, 1280x720)
1.73 MB
1.73 MB PNG
So I've added one of these shift sensors (that cuts the motor power) with the goal to reduce chain wear on my diy ebike but I kind of fucked up my shifting cable housing during the process and now my derailleur won't shift at all. I have a 7-gear shimano altus shifter and derailleur, and the derailleur only starts moving up on the 4th click or so, even though the tension is high.

This sensor takes in the housing from one side, measures cable movements on the inside and in that case cuts power for a small amount of time. The second piece of housing goes into the rear of the sensor towards the rear derailleur.
For me the only explanation why the shifting is completely fucked up is that the added friction of a slightly pinched housing and the inner friction of the sensor itself makes it impossible for the tension adjustment at the shifter to reach the rear derailleur.
It feels like even a slight gap in the cable housing makes it impossible for the tension to travel all the way back. All of this trouble also led to the cable housing to start splitting and biting itself into my shifter

My plan is to install a new cable housing now, cut it with quality cable cutters this time to avoid pinching, use metal end caps and try again?
I'm a newbie btw so any help is appreciated
>>
>>1718770
after you cut, file the end
hold the file still, and grip the cable and rub it flat on the file for a bit

then get an awl or awl-like thing, and open up the end

then test it's low friction with an inner or a scrap bit of cable.
>>
>>1717675
https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/specialized-set-to-issue-stop-ride-and-recall-on-tarmac-sl7/
>>
I mounted a front rack like pic and on top of that a 40L crate.
Now the bicycle stands barely on the kickstand, especially when the crate is loaded. It is really easy to tip the bicycle over.
Any suggestions on how to make the stand more stable? Maybe replacing it with a double legged stand?
The bicycle stand's stability was not great without the front carrier either btw
>>
>>1718798
Double legged stand is the way to go for cargo, anon. I live in the NL and get to see plenty of cargo bikes on a daily basis. All of them have that sort of stand.
>>
File: 1633007649824.jpg (33 KB, 640x640)
33 KB
33 KB JPG
>>1718804
Shut up fantasy. Fucking fatbrained RETARD.
>>
File: ceramic_wet_lube.jpg (67 KB, 481x1150)
67 KB
67 KB JPG
Is this any good?
>>
>>1718798
just lean it against something bro
>>1718817
yes, for wet climate
>>
>>1718818
>yes, for wet climate
Good. I'd hate for it to be shit in wet climate.
>>
I wanna cycle 60 miles to visit my family over the weekend

is this something I need to build up or can I just go out and do it? I already cycle 80-100 miles spread across a week
>>
>>1718771
Thanks for this advice, I managed to fix it by using a special cable cutting tool and by really pushing in the endcaps and the housing multiple times all the way towards the shifter. In the end there was maybe a centimeter of gap between the two parts of housing and the sensor but that was enough for the tension to get lost on the way.
Now I'm having difficulties shifting into the lowest gear (largest sprocket) even though the screw for adjusting that is all the way out already, so I will have to fine tune it a little bit more, but it's a huge relief that I was able to fix it because it was COMPLETELY AND UTTERLY FUCKED

Btw, can you recommend a better rear derailleur than my Altus that will still work with my 7-gear altus shifter and cassette? I need a smoother shifting experience this is just slow and unprecise...
>>
Holy fucking shit my wife is so slow. We did like 60 km togheter last sunday and she was going superslow and her heartbeat was even high (150 bpm sometimes).

How do I get my wife fit fast? Beatings?
>>
>>1718835
If you're already riding regularly you can probably just hop on and do it. Bring granola bars or something like that with lots of carbs, and bring plenty of water, and you should be fine. Remember to ride slower than normal at the start of the ride. It's tempting to haul ass on the first 20 miles when you have fresh legs and lots of energy but you will be faster overall if you pace yourself
>>
>>1718842
She will never be as fast as you anon. I'm slow for a guy but i check my times on segments against the woman's QOM list on strava sometimes for shits and giggles and apparently I'd be in the top 10 on a bunch of them if i was a woman. Nowhere near the top 10 usually for a guy
>>
>>1718835
eat before the ride also hidrate, keep your potassium up or you will get bonked
>>
>>1718842
most married relationships iv seen the man has a regular bike and the wife has an e-bike
i almost wanna say its like 85% or more like this so get her an e-bike
>>
>>1718842
>modern huMAN realizes he has been lied to all his life
there is a reason people get happy when it is a boy and fathers had to pay a lot of money to get rid of them
>>
>>1718851
Guess thats hows is gonna end up in the end if we want to enjoy the road togheter. Going slow is a pain in the ass (literally, my ass was hurting due to being sit too much on the saddle rather than pedalling).

>>1718844
I dont want her to be fast as me but man the gap is huge. I keep pushing her anyway because her ass is getting nicer.

>>1718852
Lol whut. Do I need to pay a lot of money to get rid of a boy?
>>
>>1718842
>How do I get my wife fit fast? Beatings?

Yes, just avoid the legs or you'll be working against yourself.
>>
>>1718842
Riding with slow people is very frustrating. An option you could consider might be a tandem bike. That way you'd be in charge of how fast you're going and even if she tired out and you wanted to pump hard, you'd have that ability to do so.

Cons: Not sure how enjoyable it is for the woman to not get to steer/brake and stare at your back the whole time.
>>
Is a 52cm / 20" 90s MTB frame too small for me 191cm / 6'3"?
I found a nice deal online and I'm wondering if I should buy it
>>
>>1718842
Slow yourself down. Get some blocky panniers and bring lunch, or just some jugs of extra water. 60km with an extra 10-15 kilos and shitty aero will unlock rocketship mode next solo ride.

Or get a stiff bungee and tow her ass up the hills.
>>
>>1718842
just spin
>>
>>1717667
How well do fixed gear bikes do on slush and snow?
>>
>>1718842
get a tandem
>>
do entry-level speed bikes also have higher acceleration compared to mtb? something about the geometry, body position?
or are they just faster when aero comes into play?
>>
>>1718764
Tires and cranks are definitely the things to look at first - a fork with more rake will give quicker steering, and if you already have fairly sensitive steering (as you probably do with the stock fork on your cx bike) it can make your bike uncomfortably twitchy and unstable. It's something you can definitely play around with, but save that for the last, thing to try since it can have a seriously negative impact on the way your bike handles.

>>1718901
depends on your tires, but fixed gear on slick surfaces has the advantage of giving you direct feedback from the rear wheel

>>1718903
The basic difference between bike types is where the rider's center of mass goes - on a racing bike more of that mass is over the cranks so that it can be directly more efficiently into the pedals, while bikes meant for riding on rough surfaces tend to be slower rider weight is shifted rearward and downwards because this improves stability.
>>
>>1718903
knobby tires have really noticable drag compared with slicks.

acceleration (outside of racing or the like) as in 0 to 2mph, 2 to 5mph, 5 to 10mph and etc might be close enough to not be too noticeable given the same rider and gear ratios if the mtb is on slicks but I'm just speculating based on personal feeling. but a road bike is definitely going to feel faster overall even before aero kicks in at 25mph or whatever it starts at. maybe geometry, maybe easier to maintain speed?
>>
>>1718904
>The basic difference between bike types is where the rider's center of mass goes - on a racing bike more of that mass is over the cranks so that it can be directly more efficiently into the pedals, while bikes meant for riding on rough surfaces tend to be slower rider weight is shifted rearward and downwards because this improves stability.
Cool. I took my new gravel bike (basically an entry speed with 40-622 tires) around the block today, having only cycled on a BMX and a MTB years ago, and I was surprised at the acceleration. Couldn't tell if it's because I'm stronger, but now that you said it, weight distribution must play a big part.
>>
>>1718901
I've researched this subject myself and found that a lot of people swear by them. In winter riding the simpler the bike, the better. All those exposed drivetrain components really take a beating from the road salt, sand and debris.
However it goes without saying that you'd probably need a dedicated gearing for winter riding on a fixie, and fenders and winter tires. So either a dedicated bike or swapping the rear cog and front chainring each time.
A singlespeed freewheel with a rear coaster brake would also be good in winter.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/winter.html
>>
>>1718901
Oh yeah, here's a good article about a winter build and an accompanying motivational video.
https://gearjunkie.com/biking/fixed-gear-winter-bike

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Db-t6g2g9Fc
>>
File: 1575830157194.gif (3.99 MB, 600x338)
3.99 MB
3.99 MB GIF
im looking to build up like the ultimate commuter for the winter apocalypse, racks, fenders, big tires the works.
trying to decide between kona unit x, velo orange polyvalent, surly bridge club/ogre/wednesday

any input would be cool thanks, also planning on making a dynamohub wheel, can I just throw the hub on the stock wheels that come with the bike or do I need new spokes.
>>
>>1718919
Why would you want to build a nice bike for winter commuting (assuming you're not just LARPing)? Get a beater.
>>
>>1718925
not just for winter but i want it to do well in winter, sorry if i phrased it wrong, main kind of do it all bike
>>
>>1718919
It would depend on how different the dimensions (flange diameter and distance from center to flange) are between the stock hub and the dynamo hub. Worst case scenario, you need new spokes and you get them online for like $40.
>>
>>1718919
>>1718930
And as for which bike to go with, that's tough. Are there any other specific features that are important to you? Like maybe some of those bikes have easy internal wire routing for the dynamo. That can be a lot nicer than just zip tying or taping the wire to the outside of the fork leg. I personally don't like Surly's horizontal dropouts unless I plan on going singlespeed or using an IGH.
>>
>>1718919
you will likely need new spokes as the flange of a dynamo hub is going to be bigger than a standard hub
if you're looking for something maximally sturdy, get new beefy rims, double or triple butted spokes, and brass polyax nipples
>>
>>1718857
other way round, you had to pay to get rid of a woman with a marriage dowry.
>>
>>1718838
>Btw, can you recommend a better rear derailleur than my Altus that will still work with my 7-gear altus shifter and cassette? I need a smoother shifting experience this is just slow and unprecise...

Those altus derailers are excellent. Unless it is worn with a lot of slop in the cage (even then it will work ok) the issue will be with the setup, the cabling, or that your derailer hanger is bent.
The only good upgrade too, is an older used higher end derailer, in good condition, and you'll have to look hard to find that. Basically, 7 or 8 speed XT, from the 90s. Anything higher end new will be for more spds and will not work well.

BTW, set your limit screws with the cable unclamped, and shift the derailer by hand to eyeball precisely where they should be set. THEN tune the cable and indexing.
You want to do all this with the bike off the ground, so you can pedal and shift and watch the drivetrain. Find a place to hang the bike from ropes, a tree or a rafter, 2 points on the top tube. I do not recommend a cheap bike stand for an e-bike because it is probably too heavy. Hanging is actually better. If you cannot work that out you are an idiot.
>>
>>1718886
Well that's a large and you are an extra large man.
It depends on the specific bike, the use, and how you want to set it up and ride it but generally 1 size too small is workable. You can easily add bars with a fuckload of rise to compensate and undersized bikes are quite fun.
>>
>>1717982
Anything you think you fucked up is salvagable for 60 bucks worth of new parts. I bet his chain is stretched. I dont think a shimano freewheel would wear down after a year.

Does it shift? Do you ride this only on paved paths and roads?
>>
pissbikeanon here. just hit a pothole around 30lmh on my TT bike. pressures were 80-90psi this morning (7pm time of impact) but now both wheels are flat. I hit the pothole (a gap in the pavement where a brick has been stolen) and immediately felt bizarre handling, stopped and heard both wheels hissing. then I walked an hour home wheeling pissbike. reckon my wheels are fucked? one is brand new. so annoying.
>>
>>1718979
>gets flat tire
>"OH GOD MY WHEELS ARE RUINED"
bruh

Most likely pinch flats, probably won't really be patchable. Get new tubes and tire levers (~$20 US total) then go home and learn how to change a tube before anyone finds out you own a bike that cost upwards of $10k new and don't know how to fix a fucking flat.

Your rims are probably fine, but if you want to check just look them over for dents or cracks or anything, then spin them and see if they're wobbly or have a flat spot. 99% chance the worst you'd need is a quick truing if they're wobbly, 90% chance you don't even need that.
>>
>>1718979
Also when the michelin airstop idiot shows up just ignore him.
>>
>>1718986
pinch flat at 90psi? really?
>>
>>1718986
I've also changed heaps of flats on my mtb but I don't carry tubes on this thing. I definitely wasn't carrying 2 tubes and a pump
>>
>>1718989
If you hit a pothole, sure. 90 psi on road tires doesn't give you the protection 90 psi on fatter tires would.
>>
>>1718991
fair I thought pinch flat instantly but pinch flat on that high a pressure seems absurd. 3rd ride since spending a heap of money on it and 2 flats because someone stole a brick out of the pavement. love it.
>>
>>1718992
What size are the tires and how much do you weigh?
>>
>>1718992
>that high a pressur
90psi is chronically low pressure for road tires
120psi is manpressure, 110 psi is compromise pressure and 100 psi is cope pressure
>>
>>1719024
Based 700x20c anon
>>
>>1718979
>30lmh
what is a lmh
>>
>>1718979
don't listen to anon saying pinch flats can't be patched. of course they can.
you can patch pinch flats but the reach on a single patch probably won't reach both holes (looks like a "snakebite") with enough extra buffer around them so you may have to use two patches. I have successfully patched snakebites with a single long patch on a small-circumference tube before, though
>>
>>1718949
It's much harder to find an XL, I just want to cruise on it anyway but most of my sizes comes from my legs and that is kind of concerning
>>
>>1718770
A secret I do when I install new cables, is after cutting the housing (with quality clippers), I apply a light smear of JB Weld to the end to lightly coat the internal metal sheath and then put the ferrule on. It keeps the sheath wires together and from eventually digging through the ferrule.
Also sharp quality cutters, lightly file the ends so no sharp edges, and poke the end hole round so it isn’t crushed.
>>
>>1717939
>>
>>1718933
>>1718930
thanks, damn almost sounds like I should just built my own wheel if im planning to do a dynamo hub lol.
>>
>>1717667
I got back into biking over the summer and picked up a diamondback hybrid and a child trailer from SportsChek. The trailer mounted to the stud on the rear wheel and the force of the trailer flattened the teeth on the stud to the point where I can't thread the nut on anymore.
My question is do I replace the stud or do I have to replace the whole back tire?
>>
>>1719128
Do you mean axle and axle threads instead of stud and stud teeth? They sell replacement axles, since it sounds like a solid nutted axle you can just go scavenging and take one off of some abandoned/dumpster bike, with a cone wrench and a crescent wrench. You'll need to be careful not to lose your bearing balls when you take the axle out, and make sure you put them all back in the right place when you reassemble. Shit you might have to take the cone and nut off the other end, meaning you'd need to take off the freewheel too assuming it's freewheel style.
>>
dumb question but how do I into cadence and pedaling at a regular speed? Unless I'm going uphill, I'll pedal for a few seconds, reach the speed I want, then lose all tension, so I coast.
>>
>>1719143
...upshift
>>
>>1719148
then I'd go faster
>>
>>1719140
is there anything special to sizing a replacement axle or are they all pretty standard?
>>
>>1719158
that's the idea
>>
>>1719158
>>1719143
Instead of coasting just follow with your pedal strokes. It will be much lighter than accelerating and will help you build your endurance further.
I did rides where I limited myself to no more than 20km/h, forced my cadence lower and kept the pedal strokes. It helped me tremendously to be able to go long distances with less hydration and without draining my energy reserves.
>>
>>1719165
They used to be pretty standard, except for BMX and high end mountain bikes. Now everything is going thru axle and disc. If your axle attaches with nuts on each side, something like this will most likely work. Amazon com /HUB-AXLE-SET-8x26x126x175-Wdust/dp/B0012ZOTQ8/
If you're in an area with junk bikes laying around or have a bike coop or something nearby (or even a very friendly bike shop as they all should be making a killing right now) you should be able to get one for free.
>>
>>1719143
Speed (without coasting) = wheel circumference x gear ratio x cadence. Shift into whatever gear lets you spin your legs at <X> rpm and maintain the speed you want. If the amount of effort required seems too small, go faster.
>>
File: 1633781383089.jpg (6 KB, 319x319)
6 KB
6 KB JPG
>new schwinn bike out of the box
>buy tension meter and sw-42 spoke wrench
>firsttime.jpg
>watch jewtube and read some first about it
>try to evenly distribute tension across all spokes on front wheel
>meter shows all spokes are around '25', a few around '27'
>goodEnough?.png
>18 spokes each side of hub, 2mm diameter, 26" rim
>put front wheel on bicycle without tire, spin it
>multiple large wobbles left to right
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
>>
>>1719196
Go watch some jewtube videos on how to true it. Shit was probably trued or at least closer to trued out of the box.
>>
>>1719196
git gud
>>
File: 1633838974044.png (339 KB, 670x503)
339 KB
339 KB PNG
>>1719198
doin that now, looks like I can use zip ties as gauges.
Out of box the spoke tension across wheel was around 25 per spoke except some outliers at 28ish and about two or three at 20-19.
Thought that I could use tension meter to ensure all spokes are close to same range
Guess it doesnt work like that
>>
>>1719024
I normally run 100 but I wasn't about to pump them up at 5am
>>
>>1719021
idk it's a giant trinity elite tt bike. pretty narrow. I'm 80-85kg
>>
>>1719204
>Guess it doesnt work like that
Yeah, it's kind of a mix of truing and tensioning at the same time. You'll get better.
>>
>>1719206
Oh, piss bike guy.
>>
why did durianrider make like 48 videos bashing the sl7, I think its a retarded bike but like wtf is he doing
>>
>>1719196
Even tension doesn't necessarily mean it will be true. Tension it properly, then true it. It's not usable if it's not straight, so that has to take priority.
>>
>>1719209
>why did durianrider
At this point it's just not worth the trouble to ask.
>>
File: goyim.jpg (94 KB, 677x995)
94 KB
94 KB JPG
>>1719209
>growing jewtube channel of 200k+ subs
>website durianrider.com
>5,500+ videos
Anon, have you heard the term "shill"?
That explains his actions
>>
>>1719208
>>1718979
>pissbikeanon here
?
>>
>>1719228
you expect me to have actually read the whole post chain? what do you think i am, smart?
>>
>schwinn noob who took new front wheel outta true (>>1719196)
I put two zip ties on the forks.
Shot a short video showing how much I fucked up
Assuming the vid is good enough to relay the situation: is this amount of wobble going to be fixable without fancy true stand?
https://streamable.com/772497
>>
>>1719237
I'm sure ur very smart anon. have a great day.
>>
File: 1603519165703.png (199 KB, 427x381)
199 KB
199 KB PNG
>>1719225
>200k subs
really drives home how fukken niche cycling is lmao. I think there's some lawn care tubers who have more than that
>>
>>1719240
>walmart rim quality
luhmow

Truing stand isn't necessary. Just keep making it slowly better until it's straight and make sure you end with the rim centered in the frame.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xz6nM6SY-aY
>>
>>1719209
recalled because of the fork/headset thing

>>1719206
At around 160 lbs, I rode 23s at 105/110 and 25s at 95/100. More pressure, duh.
>>
>>1719251
yeah walmart sucks but didnt want to spend 900+ for trike for elderly dad to exercise round neighborhood with
Im startin to suck less, eliminated quite a bit of wobble will keep messing with it. https://streamable.com/j4qi3i
The axle is dropped square in the forks, is it more complicated than that? Will I still need to angle the wheel a bit to make sure its centered in forks once true?
thanks anon(s)
>>1719249
kek yes channels that revolve around landcapers driving around lawns in circles or go pros attached to shaft of string trimmer has more subs
>>
>>1719249
Who the fuck would sub to dickbaitrider
Use gcn subs as a general cyclist normie n value
>>
>>1719093
the stock seatpost will very likely get the saddle high enough for you.
>>
>>1719253
It should be straight and centered when the axle is all the way in the dropout. If it wasn't like that before you started you'd have needed to fix it anyway.
>>
>>1719252
well I'm 10kg heavier than u were, what do u reckon then? 120psi?
>>
>>1719261
https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure

this recommends lower pressures than most people run, but since your problem is pinch flats, clearly 80 or whatever isn't enough
also make certain that you're checking pressure every time you ride
>>
>>1719093
just get some 25.4 bars with 60mm rise
like: BW Riser Handlebar

or some swept rising meme bars
>>
>>1719262
I think you might be overreacting desu. I'm not getting pinch flats. I got one set of pinch flats from a large drop at a reasonably high speed.
>>
>>1719261
Just stop hitting shit, tard.

90 psi is probably low for 23mm, ok but on the low side for 25mm, and on the high side for 28mm. If you have 23mm then replace them with fatter tires and save your spine.
>>
I want an ebike that will do 30+ mph, and has a range of at least 20 miles so I can commute to work on it
does such a thing exist for cheap?
>>
>>1719284
Yes, it's called a motorcycle.

Ebikes are for when you want to present a thin, ridiculous facade of exercising.
>>
>>1718989
>>1718992
I've got pinch flats on 100-110 psi on 700 x 23s
Hit a sharp 90 degree angle curb protruding about 3 inches from the road at top speed. Also destroyed one of the tires by doing that.
On the bright side that event convinced me to switch to 32 touring tires and quality of life has improved since then.
>>
>>1719284
No. over 28 mph puts it in a legal area of needing a license, so they dont make ebikes that do that.
also you don't want cheap ebikes. especially not ones of that high classification. They have cheap components that were never designed with a motor or that weight in mind. They're unreliable garbage that fall apart and are a bitch to repair at best, deathtraps at worst.

literally just get a cheap used moped off craigslist. thats what you want.
>>
>>1719286
I don't think touring tyres will fit for me but yeah ty for confirming you can pinch flat at high pressures. interesting.
>>1719274
damn if only u were there to point out the single missing brick in the pitch black or beat up the policemen with your big strong arms so they wouldn't close half the road off and force me onto the pavement to begin with :) very tough
>>
>>1719285
I already ride a motorcycle to work
it's great
but I want something else so I can put miles on something I give zero shits about and save miles on my bike for fun trips.
>>
>>1719143
Get a fixed gear to train you out of your retard habits.
This is a non-ironic post.
>>1719206
Look on the side of your tires and read the magic numbers, you fucking retard.
>>1719240
>>1719253
Truing strand is only be necessary if you're building a wheel from scratch or dealing with something *really* fucked up or something. It's definitely overkill for most people.
You can even use your brake pads as guides and true a wheel with a high degree of success.

Anyway, you should have bought a nice old bike for the same money instead of a walmart POS. or found something else on the internet for a little bit more. you fucked up big time.
>>
>>1719284
There are kits online that you can put on a normal bike and many of them claim 35mph+. But of course then you're stuck with a piece of shit ebike kit.
>>
>>1719294
>>1719287
>>1719285
alright lads, I changed my mind. fuck e bikes. pedals are for pussies. What's the least shit electric motorcycle conversion I can get? something like ryan f9's
>>
File: platypus.jpg (593 KB, 1920x1920)
593 KB
593 KB JPG
>>1719196
perfect spoke tension is a lie
all you did was fuck your wheel

nice job idiot
>>
>>1719290
what kind of shit motor do you have that you need to "save miles on it"?
>>1719296
lel I was about to ask why he's fucking around with the spoke tension on a brand new bike. anon thinks he's heading for the tour de france with that thing
>>
>>1719295
Well now this isn't the right thread for you anymore, is it?
>>
>>1719293
I'm at work you retard. do you think I rode here with 2 flat tyres?
>>
>>1719295
what motorcycle do you have that isn't suitable for riding to work?
>inb4 250cc learner licence or losing his licence for drink driving soon
>>
>>1719318
Why are your tires still flat 24 hours later?
>>
>>1719322
I work 12h days which overlap with bicycle shop opening hours
>>
>>1719323
Are you saying you don't change your own flats?
>>
>>1719324
I have no tubes bud
>>
>>1719330
Absolutely disgusting.
>>
>>1719332
might pay the bike shop to fix my flats just to piss off larpers like you, cheers
>>
>>1719337
>larpers like you
I'm literally a professional bike mechanic. Good luck, nerd.
>>
>>1719339
can you even get a qualification to be a bike mechanic or is it a 6 hour classroom thing?
>>
>>1719340
Ackshually it's a prison work-release thing.
>>
>>1719342
based sex offender. I was a mechanic for 10 years, but on cars. left because the money was shit. I will lend you $20 anon.
>>
>>1719340
Yeah, just one 6 hour class and you have all the experience needed.
>>
>>1718989
depends on tire width and weight. something like 120 psi could be called for if you're a big guy, 80-90 psi would be severely underinflated.
>>
Anyone know what this guy is riding? Some kind of ebike? It seems so smooth.
https://mobile.twitter.com/_dmoser/status/1447453823941947392
>>
>>1719382
Sounds like a regular commuter/hybrid possible BSO
>>
>>1719392
Really? The way he speeds up from a stop seems really fast and smooth. Maybe i’m just a shit rider.
>>
>>1719406
He's on flat road and you can hear him shifting down on a stop then shifting up gradually during acceleration
>>
>>1719382
it's a road bike, you can see the hood in the corner
>>
File: 1633311194617.jpg (21 KB, 597x559)
21 KB
21 KB JPG
>>1719382
>this guy exists meanwhile half of /n/ is terrified of riding on the street through the suburbs
>>
>>1719421
>>1719421
>>1719421
>>
>>1719419
/n/ cheapskates have unreasonably low quality/low performance bikes, with a road bike guess what, you can ride on the road without being pig clumsy with sloppy handling and weak brakes and not trusting the bike not to suddenly fall apart
>>
File: bike.jpg (74 KB, 800x617)
74 KB
74 KB JPG
>>1717667
what are some good bikes that can ride through snow and ice?
>>
>>1719476
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/winter.html
>>
>>1719240
Damn, those bearing suck, it should spin a lot more than a couple of revolutions on one push
>>
>>1719531
kekd, it does, the zip ties are stiff ones and were acting like brakes due to such big and constant wobbles
Now that I straightened it out, it spins for minutes after a fotceful spin via hand
>>
File: file.png (1.98 MB, 737x1143)
1.98 MB
1.98 MB PNG
>>1718948
I had to move the shifting sensor again as it was fucking up the cable tension every 10km. I did hang it from the ceiling which helped a lot. Now it seems to be fixed for good, finally.
>>
>>1718340
i got off my ass and tried the acetone on a test piece and it came off with no problem, it doesn't get noticeably duller than the rest of the housing. it still leaves a really subtle black on black logo but that doesn't matter. no point in polishing it since the dulling isn't noticeable. going the polishing route and getting all the scratches out would be a pain anyway even with a machine since there are some kinda deep scratches. but it doesn't matter, you don't notice small imperfections in real use, it doesn't affect the performance, this build has been such a shitshow that i won't be a total perfectionist about it and cables are a wear item anyway.
>>
>>1718915
that's by far and away the most faggy snow riding video I ever saw, 2 mph wobbly coward cycling which includes pavement pedalling ffs, AND the twat put his face to it like he was proud or something, what a complete dick.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_7gkhSjSjY
>>
>>1718912
>hat, ski goggles, face mask
i thought i was being oversensitive/getting old for wanting to cover my face with a buff? people where i live just wear a hat and maybe a scarf around their neck but they're casuals who wouldn't know buffs even exist
>>
>>1720299
Balaclavas are great, but at the end of the day you either cover your mouth and nose and suffocate yourself or leave them open and rapidly suck in freezing air while doing heavy cardio and die of hypothermia from the inside out.

Bottom line: get a car and a trainer.
>>
>>1720299
I have a whole set of gear designed for maximum bike comfort. I have
>Gloves with rain liners (work for temps above 35F)
>Face mask or covering cause fuck having a cold face
>Rain pants/jacket keep dry and amazing wind barrier
>Inner layering or electronic vest to heat me up
>Wool socks with chucks for my street to pedal





Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.