>>1706806How do you know when a wheelset is done?I have a 15 year old set of aluminum wheels (350g rims). I can't get the wheel true while keeping the spokes within tension spec (90-120 kgf). I have alternating spokes at the very end of the spec range. I plan on selling these wheels, but I can't morally do that unless I'm sure they are safe and reliable. There is also a small amount of deformation around some of the spoke holes to the rims on some of the spokes, but not extending to the brake track.What do I do? Here are my options:1) Just get the wheels radially and laterally true and as long as the spokes are all between 60 and 130 kg, don't worry about it. 2) Take all the spokes off, try to rebend the rims somehow, and rebuild the wheels with different spokes (I have never built wheels before and I'm not real eager about doing this)3) Bring it to a wheel builder and try to get him to do it, and just eat the cost4) Pitch the wheels and sell the associated bike with a cheapo wheelset
>>1706806two questions. background: I have a bike with an IGH, nexus8, and I fucking hate that cunt, it is fucking unreliable. bike is a marin muirwoods rc '211) can I replace the IGH with a casette?2) if not, can I replace the IGH with a rohloff? money is not an issue
>>1706810Do they go out of true when ridden? If so then don't sell them, if they're still rideable then just be upfront with any potential buyer about their less-than-ideal condition.>>1706823Of course, that's just a wheelswap.
>>1706824of course to the cassette or the rohloff?
>>1706825You can't put a cassette on that IGH hub you have now, if that's what you're asking, so either way you'd just be looking at swapping wheels. Note that to go the cassette route will require a different shifter and installing a derailer too.
>>1706829ok thanks anon <3
>>1706810I wouldn’t use rims if the nipple holes are beginning to deform around the nipples OR if there is clear separating in the seem. Wobble (even severe wobble) and all that can be dealt with using patience and good tools. You have calculated spoke tension and dish for drive-side/non drive-side?
Here's my plan:>Buy a shitty single speed BSO cruiser for the frame>swap out the rear wheel for a hub motor w/ gears> replace the front fork with something that can fit brakes> add rear derailleur so I have gears nowAre there any problems with this plan (besides the lack of rear brake)?
How fucked am I if I buy a bike that's too large for me compared to if I buy a bike that's too small for me?
>>1706857too large & too small you will have back pain and not the most effective position on pedal. However, you will perfectly ride for miiiiiiiiiiles with such a bike.
>>1706856Why bother with a derailer at all? I'd say that if you can keep things as simple as possible that's for the best. Aside from that, just be aware you'll probably need to respace your cheapo SS frame to 135mm from 120mm.
>>1706857A slightly too small bike is better than a slightly too large. But really you shouldn't be buying it if it's not right for you.
>>1706857height or length?not tall enough >>>>> too tallnot long enough >> too long
>>1706856Nowhere to mount the derailleur.>>1706857Too small = Probably will be able to make it work if it's not too severe but might need to buy a longer stem and/or longer seatpost with more setback to get your fit right.Too big = Can't do much and you'll look like an idiot on it.
>>1706810New rims, spokes, and nipples. You can keep the hubs if they're nice, but it's probably better and easier to just get everything new and manually check the spoke tension yourself.>>1706856The new wheel will not fit your frame. The hub is too wide. Are you too fucking weak to pedal a real bike?
I need to replace an old bottom bracket but I can't seem to find any replacement that is exactly the same.My current one is a screw in to fit a 73mm shell, and has a square tapered 124.5mm axel.The closest thing I can find here is something with a 122.5mm axel.Is the 1mm difference on each side going to matter at all or do you think I can get away with it?
>>1707008if the distance between cones changes it won't work.if it is the distance between the cranks, it depends if your chainring (with chain) has enough clearence, if it does your chainlines will change and you will have to adjust te screws on your front deraileur.
>>1707013What do you mean by cone?For reference, I should have posted a pic of my current BB >pic relatedI've also gotten rid of the front derailleur and gone to a single chainring.
I've got an old Raleigh road bike. My best guess is some variant of a record. I figure I could take the thing apart and refinish the frame (previous owner painted it grey very half assedly) and overhaul all the bearings. Would that be a good donor frame for a fixed gear? Drop the old derailleurs and tune up the brakes, find a cheap hub and sprocket for the rear wheel, maybe get new tires. Shouldn't be out too much money all things considered.
>>1707017Yep, old Raleighs are good candidates for doing whatever you want with - just beware that some older Raleighs, especially the more basic ones, had unique thread sizes, so keep the original headset and BB. See:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html>>1707008OEM spec Prowheel cranks I assume? Go for a 127mm spindle BB to be safe, or keep an eye on Ebay, those oddball 124.5mm BBs do show up on occassion. Or just replace the crankset with something nicer...
>>1707016fuck by old i tought it was really old. install gentoocheck for chainring clearence then (you will have to put the BB back in)if not enough you can try to fix that one, if not broken axle, find a non destructive way to open it, if nothing is broken or heavily corroded, grab one of the bearings measure it and round it up to nearest x/32 of an inch, buy the balls, place the balls and reseal
>>1707008https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney-a070/BB-UN300.htmlthat's the current gen shimano part I would try and buy. A bike shop should be able to order it for you. Or, better yet, one of the discontinued un-55s floating around. They have 123. That should be fine. 125.5 should also be fine. But you might check with your old crank if the arms are getting close on chainstay clearance, and if your FD can move 1mm in more. Also anon, you can, in a pinch, use a 68mm bottom bracket, with a 2.5mm spacer on each side. That works fine.
>>1707008the other thing about the bb anon is, how do you know what's in there is even right now? Tapers are not standard either. They pretend to be but they are really not. So how far a certain crank sits on a taper will change. And cranks bore out. The whole thing is imprecise. You shouldn't fret over mm. Although, it is possible and worth gauging if you're at either extreme for a bb not working and going in the other direction if you're replacing it.
will campagnolo shifters work with shimano derailleurs?it's the only 11 speed shifter i found that still uses mechanical braking
>>1707073Sometimes they can be made to work together with a jtek shiftmate, but with 11sp it's impossible. By mechanical braking do you mean rim brakes or cable disc brakes? Because Ultegra R8000 rim brake shifters are still readily available.
>>1707083cable disc.what now, cable disc is incompatible with cable caliper as well? dammit it's fucking impossible to upgrade this bike frame
I've been buying 18'' - 19'' bikes for the past year or so and they all fitted nicely, but I just measured a couple of them from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the top tube (measuring along the seat tube) and they are 17.5'' frames, from centre of Bottom bracket to top of seat tube they are 19''.So what size are they? Planning on selling a couple and want to list the right size in the descriptions
>>1707086Levers that work for rim will work for cable disc. Sorry, should have worded that better and said R8000 cable brake shifters.
Are there still /n/ jersey's I can buy?
>>1707089You'll have to fact check me on this one, but I've been told that frame sizes are usually measured from center of bottom bracket to an imaginary horizontal top tube, i.e. where the top tube would be if it didn't slope.Except Bianchi who apparently measure from bottom of bottom bracket.
>>1707089measure from the centre of the crank spindle to the centre of the seat post bolt
>>1707008Depends how close chainrings are to the frame. But you should be fine.
>>1707090thank you.can't find them available, but at least they're *listed* and seem to come back
>>1707096c-c = center off bb to center of where the top tube meets the seat tubec-t = center off bb to top of seat tubec-t is the standard because c-c means literally nothing with a slacker geometrythe closest thing to what you’re describing is stack, which is measured from center of bb vertically to a horizontal line drawn from the top of the head tube
>>1707090found a set of 105 R7000s on clearance, woo!11spd here i comecranky old 12-30 Tiagra to 11-32
can I put bullhorns on an mtb used mainly on the road if I also use it for medium rated trails or will that just be fucked
Hello /n/, absolute bicycle newfag here. My cousin gave me his old roadie (picrel w/ some specs) after buying a new one, and while I've been enjoying finally riding a bicycle around town I'm worried about getting the fit right (or if it fits me at all.)I feel kinda iffy about splurging on a proper fitting session considering I'm a total newbie and I got the bike itself for only around $200. I know there are already a ton of resources online about DIY fitting but I'd like to know what the best order to adjust things would be. Saddle height and layback seem pretty straightforward but I'm more concerned about my reach/drop. I'm still getting used to being on a bicycle again so I know I won't feel completely comfortable yet but sometimes I feel like I want the hoods and tops closer to me, which I find weird considering the bike has an 18" TT (about 46cm?), which seems really small. A few years ago when I would just window shop bikes I put my measurements into the competitivecyclist.com fitting calculator for shits and while I can't find the screenshot anymore it did recommend me a 53cm TT iirc.Which part should I start a DIY fit with and what new parts might I need? I know I wanna experiment with a shorter raised stem since the steerer is kinda short and the spacers are maxed out.For reference I am a manlet at around 167cm.
>>1707141You don't do a DIY fit by buying random parts. How much do you currently (or aspire to) ride, in terms of distance per week or hours per week? When you say "sometimes I want" is that because something hurts, or you feel like you're not in control? If something hurts, what is it? If you feel out of control, in what way does it feel like reducing the reach would help?
>>1707141The size is theoretically the seattube length, not top tube, but if it is top tube it should be "effective" top tube, not literal, which is middle of the headtube at the junction with the top tube to the middle of the seattube/post measured parallel to the ground.Here's Trek's size chart with some frame measurements you can use to get a better idea of the 'real' size, but anything with an 18 inch seattube shouldn't be too big for anyone who isn't a literal midget. In the drops with your forearms parallel to the ground your elbows should be roughly 90 degrees.Also why do I have to do a contour integral to know the fork size?
>>1707152Ah, I coulda phrased that better I guess. re: DIY fit my question is which part should I start adjusting first, and what new parts if necessary might I need to buy to achieve a better fit.>How much do you currently (or aspire to) ride, in terms of distance per week or hours per week?I've only had the bike for a couple days so it's just been half hour rides around my suburb. I do want to progress to longer rides around 20km one way or just riding more in general, maybe 8-10hrs/week.>is that because something hurts, or you feel like you're not in control?Both. I feel like there's too much pressure on my hands, and my lower back feels kinda strained after riding around town for a bit, but I feel like that's partly due to me not being on a bike for a long time. Basically I don't know what feels "right" yet.>in what way does it feel like reducing the reach would help?I think it'd make the bars feel lighter in my hands, in turn giving me more control by not feeling so stretched out. I know increasing bar height might be the way to go instead of just decreasing the reach overall, but as I said the spacers look to be maxed out, which is why I brought up a raised stem.I do know I just need way more time in the saddle, but if there are things I can start adjusting on my own for a better experience I'd like to get that done.
>>1707155Thanks anon, I'll have a go over with a measuring tape tomorrow to get a better idea of the bike's size.I haven't even been on the drops yet since I've just been doing some really light riding but I appreciate the reference.>Also why do I have to do a contour integral to know the fork size?Kek the whole website's an equation itself to make sense of anon. The company's based in indonesia from what I can tell, and it's hard to get more information than the parts list let alone a geo chart.
>>1707162I think you're right. If you're riding a bike that's way undersized for you, then excessive drop is likely the issue, not excessive reach. I would suggest you try a stem with a steeper angle, and angling up your bars a little.
but also anon, fitting your bike for you online is impossible. Post a square pic of you on it against a wall for advice. Or go ask for advice at a shop. You don't have to pay for a fit to get a little advice. Many shops especially community type ones will be happy to spend 5-10 mins on it for free especially if you buy something minor/ are nice and you pick your moment.
>>1707162Just get some gel gloves for your hand pressure and continue riding for at least several weeks before you start making random adjustments.
Hello /n/,I would like to convert a Cannondale Topstone Carbon bike from chain to belt-driven.Do you think it should be possible to fit the belt through the opening at the top of the rear triangle (E,D,F points)?
>>1707171my guess is no
>>1707171>>1707173Actually, maybe!Sauce: https://www.cannondale.com/-/media/files/manual-uploads/manuals/019_134949%20oms%20my20%20topstone%20carbon_en.pdf
Hey /n/, looking for some all black 26 x 1.5 - 2.0 slicks for my 90s mtb, priorities in order of importance are...1 - Lightweight2 - Rolling resistance3 - Cost4 - Puncture protectionSo a balance bewteen comfort and speed is the main focus, don't want to pay top dollar for them and wouldn't mind at least a little puncture protection but couldn't care less what they look like as long as they're black.Looking forward to hearing your recommendations.
>>1707140>>1707132You can but not advised. It was meant for touring purposes and on trails it causes more harm than any kind of benefit
>>1707221schwalbe kojak, big apple, or big ben.continental contact speed.
>>1707171You really need a bike with either an elevated chainstay or one that's designed to be broken to get a belt in. Also if you don't have horizontal dropouts you won't be able to tension. This is a stupid idea and you should feel stupid
>>1707221panaracer pasela pt + a can of spraypaint for the sidewalls
Is WD-40 good enough to give the chain a quick degreasing every now and then? I know it's not enough to lube it, but will it mess up with the factory grease inside the rollers?
>>1707284>>1707286cheers ladsNarrowed it down to Continental Contact speeds and Panaracer pasela pt, also added Vittoria Voyager hypers to the shortlist
>>1707292You should remove the factory grease as soon as possible, it is for conservation not for active use. Also no, WD-40 will evaporate quickly. Use proper chain lube, it doesn't take long time to properly lube your chain.
>>1707380I didn't mean the grease coating the whole chain when it's brand new, but the one inside of each roller, which is a different one. And I explicitly specified that I don't want to use it as lube, my question is only about how convenient it is as a degreaser.
Which supposedly hybrid bike would be better for smooth gravel and not the smooth asphalt1. Merida Silex 400https://www.merida-bikes.com/en/bike/138/silex-4002. Cube Nuroad EXhttps://www.cube.eu/en/2022/bikes/road/gravel/nuroad/cube-nuroad-ex-flashstonenorange/3. Merida Crossway XT-Editionhttps://www.merida-bikes.com/en/bike/63/crossway-xt-editionFirst two should be gravel bikes the last one is weird
I bought a good quality stationary bike. It has a system for recording KM , time,calories burned etcwhats a pro-level KM per hour pace? I need to git gud, im on nofap and want to be excellent even at something seemingly silly like stationary bike riding.
>>1707382No such thing, the rollers are just plain simple rings.
>>1707382>degreaserYou just need denatured alcohol, water some dishwasher and baking powder. Alcohol and water 50-50%, add some dishwasher and baking powder, boom you have DIY chain degreaser.
>>1707393>Never use aggressive degreasers - these will loosen the factory applied grease from the pins. This allows dirt to penetrate and drastically reduces the service life of your chain!https://www.kmcchain.eu/Maintenance>>1707394Interesting, but why baking power? What does it do?
>>1706810the spoke tension should be at least within +/-10%. did you crash them or something? maybe your truing technique is just way off. the wheelbuild is done when the tension and trueness is within spec and doesn't change after stress relieving.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_A6YzjcpBM>I have alternating spokes at the very end of the spec rangethen just even them out
>>1707382The chains are rinsed with a high pressure silicone coating to prevent rust while shipping. This coating is thick and viscous and does not help efficiency, but it prevents rustThere is no such thing as “factory lube”
>>1707398>why baking power? What does it do?It makes the solution (the water part actually) alkaline and helps cutting the grease. Dishwasher seals up the small blobs so they don't get smeared all over everything again.
>>1707398Have you ever taken a chain apart? if only at the quicklink? There is no such thing as factory applied grease in the rollers, they are simple rings on pins. If there was some crevice dirt would go in there and accelerate the wear.
>>1707382The shelbroco chain lube article was intended as a joke. Not the shit for brains zoomer "joke" like, "ha ha I was just joking when I said gas the kikes, I can tell from your negative reaction that I wasn't being serious, lighten up snowflake". I mean like an actual joke that's funny.
>>1707392Like an exercise bike? The "speed" on an exercise bike is a completely fictional number with absolutely zero relation to IRL speed on a normal bike. Just remember what you did this week and try to do a little better next week.It's a different story if it has a Power metric. If it does, then 200W average for an hour or so would be decent for a noob, and 350-400 would be "pro-level".
What's the general name of this part?
>>1707421rail clamp, probablythough there's hundreds of different ones, in case you're looking for a replacement
>seat tube>seat post>seat stays>saddle
>>1707421a bike seat
>>1707424some designs have compatible parts between different brands, like this type seen on pinarello/elita one/aero fixie seatposts
>>1707392sorry anon but this sounds utterly normie tier. to really git gud you should be doing something like this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4zHFv8_MZU
>>1707418You're saying that this section of the whole "Chain Maintenance" article is just a joke?Factory LubeNew chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain. The chain and this lubricant need to be warmed during application.This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact -- well, unless...see below.Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.
>>1707221Rene Herse Naches Pass, 26 x 1.8. Extralight casing (all black). The Standard casing would be a little cheaper and still light and supple, have a little more protection, but only comes with tan sidewalls.
>>1707443Funny, the thumbnail is missing the "AD" in the corner.
so finally went out on a bike a bought almost 4 months ago, but after riding i ended up with a pain in my thumb muscle, dunno if its a problem with the shifters shape (old model sora) or that i am grabbing them wrongi am also thinking that as it was the first time on it and the handling was quite sensitive I could have been too tense while grabbing the drop-bars
>>1707476The old lever shape always made my hands numb more often than the new ones. The real problem is jamming the soft part between your thumb and forefinger into the lever, so if you get grippier tape it'll keep you from sliding forward as much and make it easier to keep the pressure off that specific spot. Other than that just do what you can to take weight off your hands (don't have saddle too forward or tilted too much) and move them around to other positions when they're getting numb.
>>1707110Weird, I can find them available at every US retailer I looked at, including Colorado Cycles, Competitive Cyclist, and Universal Cycles (QBP). They seem to be completely out over in Germany, though. I should get some for myself while I can, because Shimano's manufacturing is fucked beyond belief. >>1707127Lucky find. Those are usually a bitch to get a hold of, which is why I didn't even mention them.
How do i attach a new bicycle tube to my wheel without puncturing it every time i reattach the tire?
>>1707520By not being an idiot?
>>1707520Well I don't know every single thing you're doing, therefore I can't tell you what you're doing wrong. Just youtube it.
>>1707542This video sucks. How they managed to stretch it to over 8 minutes and leave out actual important tips is mind-boggling.
>>1707520>Clean the inside of the rim, pay attention to the rim walls and ensure the rim tape is in good order>Check the inside of the tyre, run your fingers around it feeling for any foreign bodies or other imperfections, wipe it out with a clean damp cloth and allow to dry>Partially inflate the tube just enough so it can be easily handled, run it through a clean damp cloth, inspect the area around the valve, allow to dry.When everything is dry and ready to fit give it one more check, then fit the tyre (one side), take the partially inflated tube and push gently into the tyre cavity lining up the valve with the hole. Push the valve through the hole and then begin the process of fitting the rest of the tyre onto the rim. Take care to ensure you aren't pinching the tube between tyre and rim.Ehen the tyre is completely fitted just check all around on both sides for any sign that the tube may be pinched, also ensure the valve is properly pushed through the hole and nicely aligned, not off centre of crokked in any way.Inflate.
>>1707545You seem to be under the impression that video was made to help people install a tire, instead of to advertise Zipp, Continental, Park Tool, and Canyon.
>>1707545coulda just posted a better video instead of just whining about it
Does anyone have experience of these cheap v-brake levers from aliexpress? 66g sounds almost too light so I am a bit worried if there's a chance they would crack under heavy pressure. DiaCompe has 88g levers that I would get any day over these as they are solid quality but they are only for cantilever...
>>1707571They look nice, but yeah, never trust cheap chink shit with your life. I realize there's a premium on certain brands that make lightweight high performance parts but generally you do get what you pay for with bike components.If saving weight is that important to you you're going to have to pay for it anon, or steal it, buying tat from china is only going to backfire.
>>1707561touché>>1707564also touché, but also fuck you, it's easier to complain about stuff than it is to help
>>1707571They're copies of Extralight's levers. Like other anon said, I wouldn't trust aliexpress "ultralight" levers with something as vital as braking.
I have a bike with an aluminum frame with a carbon fork. I've seen that people believe this is a meme. What are the actual disadvantages of this combo? Should I invest in a new fork?
>>1707571Those will work just fine but they wont feel anywhere near as good as some basic Tektro brake levers.
>>1707571I have some the CNCing is very nice. I like the ergonomics a lot. The return spring is pretty damn flimsy, works, but i can see it breaking. The bolts are tiny. Also can see those breaking. And there's flex. But not as much as you might expect. All cheap levers have some flex. This degrades braking but not badly. It's definitely long pull, for v-brakes or mech discs even though they don't say so. The use case imo, is folding bike, or otherwise slowish speed weight weenie beater. 1 brake lever breaking shouldn't be a catastrophic failure. You have 2 brakes after all. But not good for a more serious bike, if only because of the flex. For a serious bike i'd get some avid levers instead, from the US, that cost more than $20 (or they'll be fake), or some deore/xt long pull levers used.
>>1707572>If saving weight is that important to you you're going to have to pay for it anonthey're not that cheap. They cost enough to be good. The real issue is just that they're too light >>1707576I wouldn't trust this either. >>1707588nah both will flex. brake feels probably about the same. And the CNC metal lever on the chink ones is pretty nice.
>>1707571Just buy some good quality levers ffs, you don't have to spoend fortunes but for the love of God get something that you know isn't going to fail at any moment. Riding cheap chinese carbon bikes is obviously retarded, the science on that is in, it's universally agreed and nobody sane argues against it, this is on the very same level, in some ways it's even worse because decent brake levers can be bought for less than than the prices of a round of drinks, you have to be of a particularly special class of retard to even consider buying cheap Chinese brake levers, it's out there on its own in the retard stakes.
>>1707598Those aren't unreliable because they're cheap. They're not that cheap. They're unreliable because they're extremely light. And a brake lever snapping, for a lot of bikes, wouldn't really matter. A fork, saddle, seatpost, or a stem, or a handlebar snapping, is a different story.If a brake lever snaps on a certain kind of bike it's just meh and you have another brake.
>>1707604Cheap means low grade materials, low grade design, low grade manufacturing, low grade quality control etc. They are literally designed to LOOK like something that works, do you have any idea how stupid it is to buy something that your safety depends upon that was designed to look like something it isn't?Use whatever little brain you have, you utter halfwit.
>>1707606Cheap means money.They cost $20. A cheap pair of brake levers on aliexpress is $5. Most of that is shipping. So it's really more like $16 vs $1They cost enough for the materials and workmanship to be not bad. >low grade designum, what? They're very well designed. The design is just stolen. How does that make them bad? Intellectual property theft isn't good in and of itself but it doesn't make ripoffs badly designed, infact it's the opposite. For complex things it's difficult because the design is often only superficially the same, but these CNCd brake levers are very simple. It's like Raceface Chesters vs Fookers. That's the most common bicycle example. You have a lot of evidence and anecdotal reporting to weigh up on those. At less than half the price, Is the chinese knockoff as good? Of course not. Is it good? Yes.
>>1707606>something that your safety depends uponyour safety doesn't necessarily depend on both brake levers workingCan you not imagine a bicycle where a small chance of only having one brake is fine? brake cables themselves can already snap. It's already a thing.
>>1707571i haven't tried those in particular but after my experience with cheap TRP RRL knockoffs i would stay away from them. the real TRP RRL and even tektro RL340 were much better quality with smooth non-creaking lever action etc and the knockoff levers came with deep scratches in them so they look messed up as well
>>1707630good to know about thosetbf though they are half the price and far more complicated than the lightpro levers we're talking abouthave you got some real trps? i've thought about getting some for ages
>>1707631yeah i got like 4 pairs lol of TRP RRL carbon from theurbanbike in singapore. the shipping fee is expensive at least to my country so it's best if you can find them from another store but at the time they had free international shipping over like $200 and i used a coupon code they had for the new year or something. i probably would have gotten the alloy ones though if they had been available for the right price but they were hard to find in europe at least.
>>1707633lol why'd you get 4 pairs.
>>1707636to qualify for free shipping
>>1707613This was my mentality as I asked the question. >>1707604>>1707595I think I will then look for something a bit more traditional like Avid SD7. Building up a retro mtb so it would not have to be downhill stuff, just some easy XC trails at most. Definitely don't want to sacrifice performance for weight, I've thought that every lever is basically the same but it does make sense that lighter means flex.The 88g DiaCompe BMX levers have held up well so far, but I harvested a pair of nice V-brakes which I will swap in and thus need new levers. Everything in my parts bin has been like half a pound for a pair.
>>1707643anon us weight weenies don't use pounds we use gramz
>>1707520If you are using levers, don’t, then use soapy water to make tires easier to put on.
>>1707545that video was perfect for me, better than any other guide i saw. what tips are you missing? e.g. tying the tire to the rim with a belt is just silly and unnecessary.
>>1707701I mean I guess I'm biased because I think GCN is a bit over the top sometimes and I also think they spoon-feed people with their informational vids like that one. I specifically don't like that he didn't at all discuss the concept of pinching the bead of the tire down into the rim well to gain as much slack as possible. Once you learn how to do that, you'll need to use tire levers far less often. He just jumped straight to tire levers and taught you how to pry it off. I sincerely think that the ubiquitousness of tire levers leads inexperienced riders to believe that they're an absolute necessity and tires must be stretched on/off of rims with significant force.
>>1707742well he did emphasize not needing tire levers to put the tires *on*. the method of removing the tires with tire levers works really well imo. for tight fitting tires like gp 5000 i'm not sure i would want to try to remove them without tire levers. carrying tire levers along with your spare inner tube and multitool seems standard so i don't think it's bad advice to tell people to use tire levers to take the tire off.
>>1707744Yeah, I still carry levers just in case, but I just think the concept is good to learn, rather than just how to use tire levers. Better than the other way around though; JUST teaching how to do it with your hands and not discussing levers at all though.
>>1707744I’m not either of you guys, but putting the bead of the tire into the dip in the middle of your rim is like, step fucking oneLike without even asking, that’s the first thing you tell someone who’s having troubles mounting tires
anyne knows what width conti tires i can fit in pre cursa (2014) rear chainstays? thinking about winter mode for ice and snow, would be interesting to try conti contact 240 winter 32c on fixed. are open pros ust rims good for this? also any good fork to swap with alpina? i was thinking maybe some 29er carbon, not sure how not to butcher frame geo tho
>>1707748he does it when putting it on at 5:30i never had a problem with taking the tire off with tire levers, he also says to do it at the opposite of the valve hole so that the tire will naturally go a bit slack
>>1707750I'd honestly rather put on CX knobbies than that fine treaded tire. Even trekking or touring tires like the Conti Ride Tour would have better treads than that """winter""" tire. Snow can get packed into those small crevices and you lose traction pretty quick
>>1707754i guess you're right, maybe i was just excited to try something spiked, god i wish i could fit something like schwalbe ice spiker pro evo. don't have any experience with cx tires, do you have anything to recommend for my situation? in the summer i usually ride something impractical like gatorskins so weight is not my biggest concern
>>1707613>chinkshills think it's normal and acceptable to use components that could randomly fail with no reason or warning
>>1707760anything like gp 4 season will improve grip over gatorskins. not sure if you really need winter specific tires since a fixie naturally gives you traction feedback through the drivetrain and encourages you to corner smoothly so that you don't get pedal strikes or lose traction in a turn. the traffic authority in my country actually recommends narrow bike tires because they cut through the snow to make contact with the asphalt underneath..
This is my shitbag bikeWhats a good hybrid or road bike for $1,000 Canadian
>>1707780t. has never experienced winter
>>1707788t. thinks you need the bike equivalent of a monster truck to ride on plowed city streets which middle aged women and schoolchildren ride on effortlessly without spending any money on studded tires or even giving it a second thought
>>1707793>which middle aged women and schoolchildren ride on effortlesslyYeah no. Only deliveristas and people with an axe to grind (i.e. people like me) ride when there's a 3 foot black and grey snowbank in the bike lane and all the potholes are camouflaged with slush. Middle aged women on their Moots hybrids don't ride between November and late April, and schoolchildren on their Big Rippers don't ride outside of the summer months.
>>1707795>netherlandsOpinion disregarded, get a trip so I can filter you
>>1707796i guarantee you the dolan pre cursa anon is from some european country so your burger opinion is less relevant than mine
Can I add a-c by going from a ZS bottom cup to an EC bottom cup? I replaced my fork and it went from 395 a-c to 385, 43 rake to 45. I thought it wouldn't be that big a deal but the bike is so damn twitchy now.
Raised my seat and now when I finish rides every part of my legs are sore (in a good way). Does that mean I finally found the perfect spot?
>>1707810You might just be working harder for no benefit, if you have a power meter and hr meter you can see if you have a higher heart rate for a given output. If not, and nothing hurts in a bad way, then eh stick with it. The soreness might go away when you get used to it.
>>1707768it's weight weenies not chinkshitersthese are the people who drill holes in things those levers are not chinkshit
>>1707571you could trim some weight by using a two finger lever
>>1707841wew that's a chinky fake avid if i ever seen one
>>1707844kek, it has D4 cast into its under sideit has the appearance and weight of an Avid FR5
I need new tyres for road bike, either 24 or 25mm (bigger wont fit). I am riding in dry conditions and and i am not rich
>>1707892https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/soma-tire-supple-vitesse-ex-700c-kv-2598?category=984https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/soma-tire-shikoro-700c-steel-bead-2596?category=984high end Japanese tires $15-20 each, normally $45 or $70 each. because the 23mm size is completely undesirable for the target unracer market. big bargainbig
>>1707892>am not richPut some layers of latex on your old tires
>>1707892ah sorry the shikoro is the only one available, for $20and it's a wire bead tirestill i think it's a pretty good buy.
Good wheel set for a light gravel / adventure bike used mainly on gravel roads and tarmac? I'm going to run 35-40mm 700c tyres, and would like something light and racy but still suitable for bigger loads like light bikepacking. I've taken a look at DT Swiss CR1400, DT Swiss G1800 and Mavic Allroad. Budget under 800€ preferable (continental Europe).
XIAMEN (where all the carbon frames are made) is under lockdown.Enjoy your evermore bike parts shortage and increasing prices.
>>1707893>>1707895I need something from EU because shipping&customs would be too much.
>>1707909If you go into any local LBS they will most definitely be able to get you one, be sure the rim is 20mm wide, it is the best for 37/40C up to 45/47C
>>1707909why didn't you fucking say that folding conti ultrasports off bike24 then
>>1707909but anon that general advice appliesyou can often get 23mm tires now for heavy discounts because no one wants themand i would rather ride expensive 23s than poorfag 25s, especially if we're talking about a supple poorfag steel bike
>>1707909https://www.bike24.com/p2305160.htmlhttps://www.bike24.com/p2305147.htmlhttps://www.bike24.com/p2428.html>>1707915only the 23mm wire bead version is in stock on bike24https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Continental-Ultra-Sport-Folding-28700x25/dp/B082VNGXDZ/
>>1707915>>1707919Continental sucks. My brother has gp5000 it started tearing on sides after 1 year & 2000 km. Others report simmilar problems as well, just asked in a local biking group. I will probably go with Vittoria Corsa Graphene 2.0>>1707917The difference in price (23mm vs 25mm) is negligible.
>>1707920>The difference in price (23mm vs 25mm) is negligible.you're not listening. Sometimes they have HEAVY discounts. The difference in price is typically negligible. >sidewall tearingyeah welcome to good road tires lol. that happens.
>>1707920gp 5000 is popular for a reasonhttps://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=158854https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-endurance-testget gp 4 season if you want durability without compromising too much performance
complaints about sidewall tears were a lot more common like 5 years ago when people were running like 120+ psi and this was across different brands not just continental. with how popular these tires are there will always be someone who has had issues, maybe runs the tire pressure too high or rides in the gutter or just got unlucky etc.
Can somebody help me in finding out what kind of aluminium alloy were strida 3 bikes made of? I found information that they were either 7000 series alloy or 7005 or just 7005 described as 7000 alloy, since the frame is clearly welded so it has to be one of the weldable alloys anyway
>>1707972this says 7005 in the specs at the bottom7005 is part of 7000 seriesbest to ask the company if you need to know about a specific model/yearhttps://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/folding-bikes/strida-3-stick-folder-review/
>>1707978yeah I came across that article tooI did look for strida's own spec sheets but it appears they don't provide that anywhere in the manuals etc since being repair friendly apparently isn't a goal they have
>>1707961Maybe but my Conti Ultrasport 2 which are like 5yo are still in good condition (apart from rear tyre lacking profile) and i ride on shitty roads. Tyres are not supposed to crack on sides, especially if they cost 50+ bucks.
>>1707988it's not a common issuethis guy has done 5000 km so far without even a punctureother samples sent in to him was one tire that wore faster than expected (1800 km with 7 flats) but with the previous set lasting 8500 km with 2-3 flats for that rider, and another sample set that lasted 9000 km with 0 flatshttps://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-endurance-test#othersamples
Why are cheap (yet still overpriced) carbon wheels a thing?They aren't any lighter than alloy wheels, and they surely are more unreliable, have worse braking performance as well.The only advantage I can see going carbon is when you want deep rims, otherwise alloy wheels are in almost all aspects superior.
>>1708031The main advantage of carbon (frames and rims) is the stiffness - more energy gets transferred from pedals into rims into the ground, and less energy gets wasted into the heat.Carbon wheels are still are lighter and more aerodynamic though.
>>1708031most people have babby tier 2kg wheels that came with their bike and think $400+ for higher tier aluminium wheels is too much money for not enough benefit, going from aluminium to carbon would represent a bigger change at least in their mind. i don't think that many people are actually buying the cheapest carbon wheels though, i think most people realize that they aren't that good if you can't get them from a decent brand that builds them properly with dt swiss or similarly good hubs like maybe farsports/winspace but not no-name ebay/aliexpress or prime wheels.
>>1708032Lol, noCarbon wheel rims usually are less stiff than alloy rims, especially when torsional forces apply.
>>1708084what are you smoking?
i fucked the chain tension thing on one side of my bike by being stupid and stripping the threads on the frame if i took my bike to a bike shop will they be able to fix it i need my bike for my job,also no i cant buy a new one.
>>1707920HOW DARE YOU, GP5KS ARE PERFECT AND INDESTRUCTIBLE
>>1708101It's tough to say without seeing it. But at least know that it's not absolutely necessary to have the tensioner. It's really nice and convenient, but not vital. So don't sweat it too much. At a shop, they would probably try running a tap through the threads to make sure they're all cleaned up. If you really dicked it and stripped the threads out totally, then there won't be enough material in there to do that and the only option would really be to enlarge the hole and thread it to a bigger diameter.
>>1708101Not required at all but nice to have. Must've been a decent track frame you fucked if yours came with one. Quit being a hamfisted /o/tist, you don't need as much wrenching torque on bikes as you would on a car.
>>1708032"Stiff" wheels has fuck-all to do with power transfer.https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunking_Wheel_Stiffness_3449.html
Can you go fast on a 7-speed Cruiser?
>>1708118depends how steep the hill is
>>1707988>Tyres are not supposed to crack on sides, especially if they cost 50+ bucks.wrongthe way to get the absolute best ride feel (suppleness) and light weight (speed accelerating) is to have very thin sidewalls which are by their very nature prone to be cut up. This is mostly an expensive road tire thing.
>>1708101Here's an idea for you anonInstead of having a bolt through the thread in your dropoutsjust have a bolt, slightly undersized, that passes through, and doesn't interact with your dropouts, and a nut on either side of it to hold it there.
>>1708101Drill and helicoil. Get someone who does automotive thread restoration to do it.>>170791723mm clincher tyres are good for track, sometimes you can get really nice ones for cheap.>>1707810For now, yes. Things may change so keep an eye on your flexibility and look out for imbalances.
>>1708165yeah this, maybe with a bit of tubing to keep it tracking straight.
>>1708089not him but don't underestimate a good aluminium rim like dt swiss rr 511. carbon rims probably tend to be stiffer although i'm not so sure about the weight weenie and the cheapest chinese carbon rims. the stiffness of the wheel as a whole can be fucked though as people tend to build them with thin spokes with a low spoke count and lightweight hubs.
Should I buy this? https://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/banff-canmore/classic-1995-rocky-mountain-hammer-mountain-bike/1585213529Not sure about those grip shifters; Every one I've ever had has been trash.
>>1708184the Grip Shift branded ones are okthose ones are Gripshift SRT600-80 FFS ?could be replaced with SL-RS45-8R8 speed thumb shifters are a bit of a rare thing .eg SunRace SLM96 R8, maybe Microshift or old suntour parts work its a little hit and missso its easier to get Shift Triggers or Shimano Altus SL-M310 if you are you keep the old brake levers
>>1708164>>1708103>>1707994Been reading about this very issue and i came to a conclusion:GP5000 are very good on perfect tarmac, but get torn quickly on bumpy roads with pebbles lying everywhere. I live in eastern EU so i will buy tougher tyres.
>>1708197don't go full meme though like with gatorskins or marathonsmaybe gp 4 season or an equivalent from another brand
>>1708197It cuts both ways, Supple tires (ones with thin sidewalls) are prone to cuts on rough roads, but for the exact same reason they also offer the most comfortable ride on rough roads, so in another way they're ideally suited to that terrain. I've ridden a lot of actual gravel routes on gp5k and they're excellent. Also that those expensive supple road tires tend to be the ones for their size with the absolute best grip too. And when you think about it the other way around, a tougher tire with thicker sidewalls, which will be uncomfy to ride, is more forgiving on a perfectly smooth road with no bumps. But yeah, for something quite good but on the tougher side, 4 seasons is a good rec.
>>1708184Not a bad buy, but I would much rather a similiar rigid bike.
>>1707905I think this is really too niche a question to get consumer preferences here man. I would just advise you consider/ price a custom wheel build if you have a good wheelbuilder in a shop or independant, locally to you. Which would probably be the most bombproof option and achievable within your budget. I'd also suggest pricing a front dynamo hub. You lose like 6 watts but it's so awesome for touring with.
>>1708232If I eyeball correctly that's RockShox Quadra suspension. It is a terrible fork but actually fairly lightweight at 1.3kg. A new Surly rigid fork weighs almost the same.
>>1708235wow ok that's pretty impressive. Although it is still about 500 grams, (significant) over a rigid fork from an equivalent bike from that era. weight aside it's more an issue of ride quality for me. I think good rigid 90s mtbs are just far more fun.
>>1708184just get off the meme that is indexed shifters, and get some chink friction shifters (until you find some nice ones on a flea market)
>>1708241yeah this you feel your way into gears and shifts are a bit slow and the thing is fucking plastic but other than that it just werksez fix
>>1707958Vittoria Lion has been having delamination problems with their cotton tires like the Corsa, and with the stuff they manufacture for Wolfpack (Race Cotton), Specialized (Turbo Cotton), Terk (R320), etc. It's been going on for a couple of years now. I dunno what the problem is, maybe they switched up the adhesive they use to glue the rubber tread to the cotton casing to something that loses adhesion in certain conditions? I have GP5ks on one of my bikes, 700x25. Good rolling, okay puncture resistance, pretty comfy, but sidewalls feel squishy on hard cornering even when I have the tires inflated rather high. I wouldn't push them anywhere near as hard into corners as Turbo Cottons or Veloflex open tubbies or even Pasela PTs. The TLR versions with the reinforced sidewalls may be a different story but I haven't tried those.
What's a good, mid-level, full-suspension bike these days? Not looking to do trials-type riding anymore, just want to be able to ride over roots while staying seated. I'll be riding with clipless pedals this time around.For comparison, my current bike is an old 1999 Gary Fisher hardtail.
>>1708244>just want to be able to ride over roots while staying seated
>>1708089Not the marketing shill semen you do, obviously.Same retards who eat up the lies that you can both have stiffness and comfort.I guess the average "GCN" cycling video consumer is double digit IQ.
What gear am I supposed to keep my chain in when not in use
>>1708253cling film works fine to recirculate evaporated lubricant
>>1708239Yeah. I agree. It's a shame there's no reasonably priced triple-butted rigid forks available anymore. Every reasonably priced steel fork on the market weighs almost as much as 90s suspension
>>1707905dt swiss is legit
>>1708244>want to be able to ride over roots while staying seated. That's not a thing. The purpose of suspension is to keep the tires in traction, not to cushion you. When you ride over shit with a bike, you do it in attack position. If you can't or won't, you'll eventually endo or washout and damage the bike and/or injure yourself.
>>1708244Why are full suspension bikes 3 times more expensive than hardtails? Because of that 1 extra spring?
>>1708302a high spec hardtail can cost a bunch too
>>1706806https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyBjChjLGAIhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOsxgzlK1-YI have the same chain and I see these guys installing without tools. I have no idea how they're doing it.
>>1707141I know this may perhaps be your first roadie with sti shifters but your default position is the hoods you should be in the hoods 95 percent of the time
>>1707808looks like I'm gonna find out, this is the cheapest EC44/30 cup I could find, wish I could just buy the lower.
Guys the bike was new and the more I ride it the more i see the black paint getting chipped.I suspect is the chain hitting the frame. How do I stop this from happening?Also Im thinking about wrapping that part of the frame as a temporary solution
>>1708341Chainstay protectors are a thing, go buy one
>>1708314Why would you even need tools, anon? Thats the point of chainlink.
>>1708344Cool I dont need to wrap ugly ducktape.
>>1708168>>1708165>>1708104thanks for the responses bros /n/ is the best board on 4chan. >>1708105>Must've been a decent track frame you fucked if yours came with oneit was a budget fixie(golden cycles co bike i got for $260)
>>1708349a lot of people wrap an old inner tube, looks ok I guess, does the job
>>1708314It's a cunt but it's possible. You literally bend the chain hard until the link flexes enough that the pin can fit into the slot. You do basically the same thing with the special pliers except with a little more control. Every time I do I struggle for 10 minutes until I'm 99% sure it will never ever fucking work, then it magically just randomly decides to click in even though I didn't do anything different.
>>1707021>older Raleighs had their own measurements.Man, Sheldon brown knows everything about bikes it seems, thanks anon, guess I haven't gotten to that one yet.
i think my compression plug fell through. how do i get it out?
Would going from a 26x2.00 front tire to a 26x2.50 tire (with appropriate PSI) be noticeably more comfortable on the road?I currently have two 26x2.00 tires on my heavy rigid "touring" bike that weighs 80lbs. My rear chainstays won't allow for a wider tire but my front fork has room for going from 2.00 to 2.50. Is it worth it for $40? Maxxis Hookworm is the only 2.50 inch 559mm tire I can find. Or should I replace the front fork with a new one that can fit a 26x3.00+ tire? Comfort is my main concern here, this bike is heavy as shit and I put thousands of miles on it, 90% on the road 10% light hardpack trails.
>>1708461you should focus on getting a supple tire thenprobably not maxxis hookwormget DTH tanwall folder in 2.3yes it will be comfier
>>1708461like the other anon said, get better tires instead of wideralternatively, just let some air out
This bike has been rotting in my garage for 10 years. What do i have to do to make it as functional as possible? I have so far>lubed bearing on both weels>replaced chain&casette.>will buy new tiresWhat about bottom bracket and suspension?
>>17086041) look in the following link, under Tire Wear - it'll let you know if you really need new tires. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html2) I'd definitely overhaul the bottom bracket, take that system apart, clean out all the old grease and dirt and replace it with new grease. I'd do the same with the headset (the part where your fork and handlebars are connected to your frame. The suspension fork could probably use checking up on but my bike is rigid so I couldn't tell you.3) check up on the brakes - lube the cables in the tubing, see if they brake just fine or if you need new pads.4) true up the wheels if they need it.
>>1708459... Flip bike upside down?>>1708604If it's a coil suspension fork it's probably fine, bottom bracket grease may have hardened up a bit but also may be fine, just spin the cranks without the chain to feel it.If it were just sitting and not used your chain and cassette may have been fine, just needed a good cleaning and re-lube.The worst part of a bike sitting that long other than the rubber rotting imo is the cables, braking might be fine but the shifters will shift sluggishly and imprecisely until you recable. You should do the brake cables also for safety purposes.
>>1708461>80lbsHow? Is that with panniers?Anyhow - you don't need to buy anything, just lower the pressure of what you already have or invest in a suspension fork.
>>1708604check chainrings for wearchange wires and housingsdish true and balance the wheels (last one is optional and only if you intend to travel far)overhaul the pedals
>>1707892I use vittoria zaffiro pro on my daily bike. It's cheap and works for me.
>>1708374>It's a cunt but it's possible. You literally bend the chain hard until the link flexes enough that the pin can fit into the slot. You do basically the same thing with the special pliers except with a little more control. Every time I do I struggle for 10 minutes until I'm 99% sure it will never ever fucking work, then it magically just randomly decides to click in even though I didn't do anything different.Fuck me man. I've been struggling for 2 days on this. Literally hours and hours. Nothing works. Supposedly this takes less than a minute? Fuck.
what tires won't slip on sand?
>>1708637After another 15 minutes of struggling I got it. The key was I stopped looking at it and trying to very specifically thread it, but instead just bend the chain.
>>1708638Lower the tire pressure and put on a faster gear, to lower your pedaling cadence. That's how cyclocross riders do it.
Why is a tapered head tube gud?
>>1708714Increases overall rigidity of the front-end by quite a bit which has a variety of positive effects like reducing bearing wear but it is mainly of tremendous importance to MTB handling. An extremely stiff front end is crucial to not dying.
>>1708638high volume, low pressure, and possibly also add some water to your tubes
>>1708611i got it out with a coat hanger and reinstalled my compression plug
what seatpost do u guys recommend
>>1708738For what style of bike? What diameter? What length?
>>170873927.2gravelidk im just replacing my previous one because the saddle bolt is stripped and i can't remove the saddle
>>1708738depends on your budget>>1708756>replacing a seatpost for a stripped boltbruhTake it to a shop and have them drill it out, replace it with a new bolt from home depot, then don't be a retard and use the correct hex wrench next time (and no, the closest SAE size isn't 'close enough' for a metric size bolt)
>>1708757>and no, the closest SAE size isn't 'close enough' for a metric size boltIt's basically fine 99% of the time and customers are stupid so fuck them just grab whatever's closest
>>1708738thomson elite<tune starkes<tune leichtes
>>1708768>tune leichtes>$300 for a seatpost>$300 for an aluminum seatpost>any amount of money at all for a 170g aluminum seatpost
>>1708757yeah but my current seatpost isn't a 2 bolt it's that ghetto kind with ridges and that metal cylinder at the top
>>1708771Well still take it to a shop so you at least don't have to buy a new saddle too.
>>1708774but i bought a new saddle already and I definitely want to replace my current one
>>1708778Well then we're back to >depends on your budgetI have this one on my gravel bike and it's aight. Looks like only 400mm in stock but too long is better than too short.https://www.jensonusa.com/Whisky-No7-Carbon-Seatpost
>>1708723>add some water to your tubesu wot
>>1708770more like 200, but yes, it's a fancy seatpost, maybe anon has a fancy cx>any amount of money at all for a 170g alu seatpostwhat's wrong with lightweight alu components? i see it as a nice option if you don't want to go carbon
>>1708760this is why you get stupid customers while smart customers try to be self reliant
Got new shifters but the sides of the levers have hard corners and it's a little annoying. Maybe it'll wear down over time, but anything else I can do to round them off or something without disfiguring them?
>>1708788try to get used to it? you shouldn't touch the back of the lever much while riding. you could take a fine grit sandpaper to them very gently but it might ruin the finish.
>>1708607>overhaul a cheap cartridge bottom bracketwhy do you keep saying this
>>1708788I have the same in Sora, never bothered me during riding. You simply don't touch them.
going to buy a used carbon bike tomorrow (giant trinity elite). never had anything to do with carbon. how do I make sure it's not going to fall apart and kill me on my commute?
>>1708838really closely scrutinize the whole frame for cracks and abrasions shallow scratches and peeling clearcoat are probably fine but really not greati'd also try put some watts down pushing a big gear up a hill and see if the bb creaks, could be an easy fix but also might not be.
>>1708838also worth checking there isn't rash on any of the components, indicating a crash.
>>1708838Inspect the frame by knocking on it with a coin. The dull knocks will reveal the hidden cracks.
>>1708840>>1708841>>1708843I'll definitely be looking for crash damage and test riding it under load. luckily there are heaps of horrible brutal hills here. gonna do the coin trick too. if I take it to a LBS longer term will they inspect it for me?
Hate bike industry, simple.
>>1708798That bike looks like old enough that it could be a cup and cone.
>>1708846>if I take it to a LBS longer term will they inspect it for me?maybe one you're friendly with, on a specifically informal basisbike shops will be very wary though of taking on liability for anything that might possible go wrong with the bike though, for next to no reason.
that's what I was thinking, are bike shops going to tell me to jog on when I ask them if a carbon bike is still good or am I going to find someone who can give me an answer?
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/tourney.htmlWhy are there 16 different Tourney derailleurs but only one from other lines?
>>1708884Nah dude. It has V-brakesNOTHING with v-brakes will have cup and cone. Even early 90s mtbs would almost never had cup and cone. Cartridge came in then and it stayed.
>>1708890what are you actually asking
>>1708898My bike has Vs and cup-and-cone BB.
>>1708903ok no you're actually right below a certain level of shitness which that bike is possibly below.
>>1708908Honestly, it could be a sealed bearing, in which case, yeah, just ride it until the cranks don't spin freely when the chain is taken off, then just replace the bearings. You *COULD* overhaul them, but it's better not to.That bike just looks cheap enough that it could go either way I've never even seen that brand before. My commuter has Vs and a cup and cone, my dad's commuter I think has a front disc brake and a cup and cone bb and headset. Cheap bikes be all kinds of wacky.
>>1708892becauseYOU WILL OWN NOTHING AND YOU WILL BE HAPPY
>>1708908It's definitely a cheap bike, but I don't know what brand it is, it could easily have a cartridge, in which case don't overhaul it, just ride it until the cranks don't turn freely with the chain removed.Department store bikes be weird, I don't know if that brand makes good bikes or not, but I haven't seen it. My bike is old as heck and has V brakes and cup and cone BB, my dad's bike is a bit old and has a front disc brake, rear V brake, and cup and cone BB.
>>1708898Almost every box store bike ever from 2000-2010 has both vbrakes and cup&cone.
>>1708920>>1708925Fuck me, sorry for double posting. The first post didn't show up.
>>1708892there aren’t, there are at least two per group (not counting DI2)dura ace and ultegra are new, hence them not even having mechanical options yet, previuos ultegra had like 4-5 mechanical rds
>>1708890in the UK they have shops that can scan them, they're used for insurance claims like if a car ran into them