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File: 1601426534053.gif (1 MB, 238x190)
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>https://www.youtube.com/c/parktool/videos
>https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
>http://sheldonbrown.com/

Previous: >>1704537
>>
>>1706806
How do you know when a wheelset is done?
I have a 15 year old set of aluminum wheels (350g rims). I can't get the wheel true while keeping the spokes within tension spec (90-120 kgf). I have alternating spokes at the very end of the spec range. I plan on selling these wheels, but I can't morally do that unless I'm sure they are safe and reliable. There is also a small amount of deformation around some of the spoke holes to the rims on some of the spokes, but not extending to the brake track.

What do I do? Here are my options:

1) Just get the wheels radially and laterally true and as long as the spokes are all between 60 and 130 kg, don't worry about it.
2) Take all the spokes off, try to rebend the rims somehow, and rebuild the wheels with different spokes (I have never built wheels before and I'm not real eager about doing this)
3) Bring it to a wheel builder and try to get him to do it, and just eat the cost
4) Pitch the wheels and sell the associated bike with a cheapo wheelset
>>
>>1706806
two questions. background: I have a bike with an IGH, nexus8, and I fucking hate that cunt, it is fucking unreliable. bike is a marin muirwoods rc '21

1) can I replace the IGH with a casette?
2) if not, can I replace the IGH with a rohloff? money is not an issue
>>
>>1706810
Do they go out of true when ridden? If so then don't sell them, if they're still rideable then just be upfront with any potential buyer about their less-than-ideal condition.

>>1706823
Of course, that's just a wheelswap.
>>
>>1706824
of course to the cassette or the rohloff?
>>
>>1706825
You can't put a cassette on that IGH hub you have now, if that's what you're asking, so either way you'd just be looking at swapping wheels. Note that to go the cassette route will require a different shifter and installing a derailer too.
>>
>>1706829
ok thanks anon <3
>>
>>1706810
I wouldn’t use rims if the nipple holes are beginning to deform around the nipples OR if there is clear separating in the seem. Wobble (even severe wobble) and all that can be dealt with using patience and good tools. You have calculated spoke tension and dish for drive-side/non drive-side?
>>
Here's my plan:
>Buy a shitty single speed BSO cruiser for the frame
>swap out the rear wheel for a hub motor w/ gears
> replace the front fork with something that can fit brakes
> add rear derailleur so I have gears now
Are there any problems with this plan (besides the lack of rear brake)?
>>
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How fucked am I if I buy a bike that's too large for me compared to if I buy a bike that's too small for me?
>>
>>1706857
too large & too small you will have back pain and not the most effective position on pedal. However, you will perfectly ride for miiiiiiiiiiles with such a bike.
>>
>>1706856
Why bother with a derailer at all? I'd say that if you can keep things as simple as possible that's for the best. Aside from that, just be aware you'll probably need to respace your cheapo SS frame to 135mm from 120mm.
>>
>>1706857
A slightly too small bike is better than a slightly too large. But really you shouldn't be buying it if it's not right for you.
>>
>>1706857
height or length?
not tall enough >>>>> too tall
not long enough >> too long
>>
>>1706856
Nowhere to mount the derailleur.

>>1706857
Too small = Probably will be able to make it work if it's not too severe but might need to buy a longer stem and/or longer seatpost with more setback to get your fit right.

Too big = Can't do much and you'll look like an idiot on it.
>>
>>1706810
New rims, spokes, and nipples. You can keep the hubs if they're nice, but it's probably better and easier to just get everything new and manually check the spoke tension yourself.

>>1706856
The new wheel will not fit your frame. The hub is too wide. Are you too fucking weak to pedal a real bike?
>>
I need to replace an old bottom bracket but I can't seem to find any replacement that is exactly the same.

My current one is a screw in to fit a 73mm shell, and has a square tapered 124.5mm axel.

The closest thing I can find here is something with a 122.5mm axel.

Is the 1mm difference on each side going to matter at all or do you think I can get away with it?
>>
>>1707008
if the distance between cones changes it won't work.
if it is the distance between the cranks, it depends if your chainring (with chain) has enough clearence, if it does your chainlines will change and you will have to adjust te screws on your front deraileur.
>>
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>>1707013
What do you mean by cone?

For reference, I should have posted a pic of my current BB >pic related

I've also gotten rid of the front derailleur and gone to a single chainring.
>>
I've got an old Raleigh road bike. My best guess is some variant of a record. I figure I could take the thing apart and refinish the frame (previous owner painted it grey very half assedly) and overhaul all the bearings. Would that be a good donor frame for a fixed gear? Drop the old derailleurs and tune up the brakes, find a cheap hub and sprocket for the rear wheel, maybe get new tires. Shouldn't be out too much money all things considered.
>>
>>1707017
Yep, old Raleighs are good candidates for doing whatever you want with - just beware that some older Raleighs, especially the more basic ones, had unique thread sizes, so keep the original headset and BB. See:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html

>>1707008
OEM spec Prowheel cranks I assume? Go for a 127mm spindle BB to be safe, or keep an eye on Ebay, those oddball 124.5mm BBs do show up on occassion. Or just replace the crankset with something nicer...
>>
>>1707016
fuck by old i tought it was really old. install gentoo

check for chainring clearence then (you will have to put the BB back in)

if not enough you can try to fix that one, if not broken axle, find a non destructive way to open it, if nothing is broken or heavily corroded, grab one of the bearings measure it and round it up to nearest x/32 of an inch, buy the balls, place the balls and reseal
>>
>>1707008
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney-a070/BB-UN300.html

that's the current gen shimano part I would try and buy. A bike shop should be able to order it for you. Or, better yet, one of the discontinued un-55s floating around.

They have 123. That should be fine. 125.5 should also be fine. But you might check with your old crank if the arms are getting close on chainstay clearance, and if your FD can move 1mm in more.
Also anon, you can, in a pinch, use a 68mm bottom bracket, with a 2.5mm spacer on each side. That works fine.
>>
>>1707008
the other thing about the bb anon is, how do you know what's in there is even right now?
Tapers are not standard either. They pretend to be but they are really not. So how far a certain crank sits on a taper will change. And cranks bore out. The whole thing is imprecise. You shouldn't fret over mm. Although, it is possible and worth gauging if you're at either extreme for a bb not working and going in the other direction if you're replacing it.
>>
will campagnolo shifters work with shimano derailleurs?
it's the only 11 speed shifter i found that still uses mechanical braking
>>
>>1707073
Sometimes they can be made to work together with a jtek shiftmate, but with 11sp it's impossible. By mechanical braking do you mean rim brakes or cable disc brakes? Because Ultegra R8000 rim brake shifters are still readily available.
>>
>>1707083
cable disc.
what now, cable disc is incompatible with cable caliper as well? dammit it's fucking impossible to upgrade this bike frame
>>
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I've been buying 18'' - 19'' bikes for the past year or so and they all fitted nicely, but I just measured a couple of them from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the top tube (measuring along the seat tube) and they are 17.5'' frames, from centre of Bottom bracket to top of seat tube they are 19''.

So what size are they? Planning on selling a couple and want to list the right size in the descriptions
>>
>>1707086
Levers that work for rim will work for cable disc. Sorry, should have worded that better and said R8000 cable brake shifters.
>>
Are there still /n/ jersey's I can buy?
>>
>>1707089
You'll have to fact check me on this one, but I've been told that frame sizes are usually measured from center of bottom bracket to an imaginary horizontal top tube, i.e. where the top tube would be if it didn't slope.
Except Bianchi who apparently measure from bottom of bottom bracket.
>>
>>1707089
measure from the centre of the crank spindle to the centre of the seat post bolt
>>
>>1707008
Depends how close chainrings are to the frame. But you should be fine.
>>
>>1707090
thank you.
can't find them available, but at least they're *listed* and seem to come back
>>
>>1707096
c-c = center off bb to center of where the top tube meets the seat tube
c-t = center off bb to top of seat tube
c-t is the standard because c-c means literally nothing with a slacker geometry
the closest thing to what you’re describing is stack, which is measured from center of bb vertically to a horizontal line drawn from the top of the head tube
>>
>>1707090
found a set of 105 R7000s on clearance, woo!
11spd here i come
cranky old 12-30 Tiagra to 11-32
>>
can I put bullhorns on an mtb used mainly on the road if I also use it for medium rated trails or will that just be fucked
>>
>>1707132
don't.
>>
>>1707135
ok
>>
>>1707132
do
>>
>>1707137
conflict :(
>>
Hello /n/, absolute bicycle newfag here. My cousin gave me his old roadie (picrel w/ some specs) after buying a new one, and while I've been enjoying finally riding a bicycle around town I'm worried about getting the fit right (or if it fits me at all.)

I feel kinda iffy about splurging on a proper fitting session considering I'm a total newbie and I got the bike itself for only around $200. I know there are already a ton of resources online about DIY fitting but I'd like to know what the best order to adjust things would be.

Saddle height and layback seem pretty straightforward but I'm more concerned about my reach/drop. I'm still getting used to being on a bicycle again so I know I won't feel completely comfortable yet but sometimes I feel like I want the hoods and tops closer to me, which I find weird considering the bike has an 18" TT (about 46cm?), which seems really small. A few years ago when I would just window shop bikes I put my measurements into the competitivecyclist.com fitting calculator for shits and while I can't find the screenshot anymore it did recommend me a 53cm TT iirc.

Which part should I start a DIY fit with and what new parts might I need? I know I wanna experiment with a shorter raised stem since the steerer is kinda short and the spacers are maxed out.

For reference I am a manlet at around 167cm.
>>
>>1707141
You don't do a DIY fit by buying random parts. How much do you currently (or aspire to) ride, in terms of distance per week or hours per week? When you say "sometimes I want" is that because something hurts, or you feel like you're not in control? If something hurts, what is it? If you feel out of control, in what way does it feel like reducing the reach would help?
>>
>>1707141
The size is theoretically the seattube length, not top tube, but if it is top tube it should be "effective" top tube, not literal, which is middle of the headtube at the junction with the top tube to the middle of the seattube/post measured parallel to the ground.

Here's Trek's size chart with some frame measurements you can use to get a better idea of the 'real' size, but anything with an 18 inch seattube shouldn't be too big for anyone who isn't a literal midget. In the drops with your forearms parallel to the ground your elbows should be roughly 90 degrees.

Also why do I have to do a contour integral to know the fork size?
>>
>>1707152
Ah, I coulda phrased that better I guess. re: DIY fit my question is which part should I start adjusting first, and what new parts if necessary might I need to buy to achieve a better fit.

>How much do you currently (or aspire to) ride, in terms of distance per week or hours per week?
I've only had the bike for a couple days so it's just been half hour rides around my suburb. I do want to progress to longer rides around 20km one way or just riding more in general, maybe 8-10hrs/week.

>is that because something hurts, or you feel like you're not in control?
Both. I feel like there's too much pressure on my hands, and my lower back feels kinda strained after riding around town for a bit, but I feel like that's partly due to me not being on a bike for a long time. Basically I don't know what feels "right" yet.

>in what way does it feel like reducing the reach would help?
I think it'd make the bars feel lighter in my hands, in turn giving me more control by not feeling so stretched out. I know increasing bar height might be the way to go instead of just decreasing the reach overall, but as I said the spacers look to be maxed out, which is why I brought up a raised stem.

I do know I just need way more time in the saddle, but if there are things I can start adjusting on my own for a better experience I'd like to get that done.
>>
>>1707155
Thanks anon, I'll have a go over with a measuring tape tomorrow to get a better idea of the bike's size.

I haven't even been on the drops yet since I've just been doing some really light riding but I appreciate the reference.

>Also why do I have to do a contour integral to know the fork size?
Kek the whole website's an equation itself to make sense of anon. The company's based in indonesia from what I can tell, and it's hard to get more information than the parts list let alone a geo chart.
>>
>>1707162
I think you're right. If you're riding a bike that's way undersized for you, then excessive drop is likely the issue, not excessive reach.

I would suggest you try a stem with a steeper angle, and angling up your bars a little.
>>
but also anon, fitting your bike for you online is impossible. Post a square pic of you on it against a wall for advice. Or go ask for advice at a shop. You don't have to pay for a fit to get a little advice. Many shops especially community type ones will be happy to spend 5-10 mins on it for free especially if you buy something minor/ are nice and you pick your moment.
>>
>>1707162
Just get some gel gloves for your hand pressure and continue riding for at least several weeks before you start making random adjustments.
>>
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Hello /n/,
I would like to convert a Cannondale Topstone Carbon bike from chain to belt-driven.
Do you think it should be possible to fit the belt through the opening at the top of the rear triangle (E,D,F points)?
>>
>>1707171
my guess is no
>>
>>1707171
>>1707173
Actually, maybe!
Sauce: https://www.cannondale.com/-/media/files/manual-uploads/manuals/019_134949%20oms%20my20%20topstone%20carbon_en.pdf
>>
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Hey /n/, looking for some all black 26 x 1.5 - 2.0 slicks for my 90s mtb, priorities in order of importance are...
1 - Lightweight
2 - Rolling resistance
3 - Cost
4 - Puncture protection

So a balance bewteen comfort and speed is the main focus, don't want to pay top dollar for them and wouldn't mind at least a little puncture protection but couldn't care less what they look like as long as they're black.
Looking forward to hearing your recommendations.
>>
>>1707140
>>1707132
You can but not advised. It was meant for touring purposes and on trails it causes more harm than any kind of benefit
>>
>>1707221
schwalbe kojak, big apple, or big ben.
continental contact speed.
>>
>>1707171
You really need a bike with either an elevated chainstay or one that's designed to be broken to get a belt in. Also if you don't have horizontal dropouts you won't be able to tension. This is a stupid idea and you should feel stupid
>>
>>1707221
panaracer pasela pt + a can of spraypaint for the sidewalls
>>
Is WD-40 good enough to give the chain a quick degreasing every now and then? I know it's not enough to lube it, but will it mess up with the factory grease inside the rollers?
>>
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>>1707284
>>1707286
cheers lads
Narrowed it down to Continental Contact speeds and Panaracer pasela pt, also added Vittoria Voyager hypers to the shortlist
>>
>>1707292
You should remove the factory grease as soon as possible, it is for conservation not for active use. Also no, WD-40 will evaporate quickly.
Use proper chain lube, it doesn't take long time to properly lube your chain.
>>
>>1707380
I didn't mean the grease coating the whole chain when it's brand new, but the one inside of each roller, which is a different one. And I explicitly specified that I don't want to use it as lube, my question is only about how convenient it is as a degreaser.
>>
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Which supposedly hybrid bike would be better for smooth gravel and not the smooth asphalt

1. Merida Silex 400
https://www.merida-bikes.com/en/bike/138/silex-400
2. Cube Nuroad EX
https://www.cube.eu/en/2022/bikes/road/gravel/nuroad/cube-nuroad-ex-flashstonenorange/
3. Merida Crossway XT-Edition
https://www.merida-bikes.com/en/bike/63/crossway-xt-edition

First two should be gravel bikes the last one is weird
>>
I bought a good quality stationary bike. It has a system for recording KM , time,calories burned etc
whats a pro-level KM per hour pace? I need to git gud, im on nofap and want to be excellent even at something seemingly silly like stationary bike riding.
>>
>>1707382
No such thing, the rollers are just plain simple rings.
>>
>>1707382
>degreaser
You just need denatured alcohol, water some dishwasher and baking powder. Alcohol and water 50-50%, add some dishwasher and baking powder, boom you have DIY chain degreaser.
>>
>>1707393
>Never use aggressive degreasers - these will loosen the factory applied grease from the pins. This allows dirt to penetrate and drastically reduces the service life of your chain!
https://www.kmcchain.eu/Maintenance

>>1707394
Interesting, but why baking power? What does it do?
>>
>>1706810
the spoke tension should be at least within +/-10%. did you crash them or something? maybe your truing technique is just way off. the wheelbuild is done when the tension and trueness is within spec and doesn't change after stress relieving.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_A6YzjcpBM

>I have alternating spokes at the very end of the spec range
then just even them out
>>
>>1707382
The chains are rinsed with a high pressure silicone coating to prevent rust while shipping. This coating is thick and viscous and does not help efficiency, but it prevents rust
There is no such thing as “factory lube”
>>
>>1707398
>why baking power? What does it do?
It makes the solution (the water part actually) alkaline and helps cutting the grease. Dishwasher seals up the small blobs so they don't get smeared all over everything again.
>>
>>1707398
Have you ever taken a chain apart? if only at the quicklink? There is no such thing as factory applied grease in the rollers, they are simple rings on pins. If there was some crevice dirt would go in there and accelerate the wear.
>>
>>1707382
The shelbroco chain lube article was intended as a joke. Not the shit for brains zoomer "joke" like, "ha ha I was just joking when I said gas the kikes, I can tell from your negative reaction that I wasn't being serious, lighten up snowflake". I mean like an actual joke that's funny.
>>
>>1707392
Like an exercise bike? The "speed" on an exercise bike is a completely fictional number with absolutely zero relation to IRL speed on a normal bike. Just remember what you did this week and try to do a little better next week.

It's a different story if it has a Power metric. If it does, then 200W average for an hour or so would be decent for a noob, and 350-400 would be "pro-level".
>>
What's the general name of this part?
>>
>>1707421
rail clamp, probably
though there's hundreds of different ones, in case you're looking for a replacement
>>
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>seat tube
>seat post
>seat stays
>saddle
>>
>>1707421
a bike seat
>>
>>1707424
some designs have compatible parts between different brands, like this type seen on pinarello/elita one/aero fixie seatposts
>>
>>1707392
sorry anon but this sounds utterly normie tier. to really git gud you should be doing something like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4zHFv8_MZU
>>
>>1707418
You're saying that this section of the whole "Chain Maintenance" article is just a joke?

Factory Lube
New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain. The chain and this lubricant need to be warmed during application.

This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact -- well, unless...see below.

Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!

The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.
>>
>>1707221
Rene Herse Naches Pass, 26 x 1.8. Extralight casing (all black). The Standard casing would be a little cheaper and still light and supple, have a little more protection, but only comes with tan sidewalls.
>>
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>>1707443
Funny, the thumbnail is missing the "AD" in the corner.
>>
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so finally went out on a bike a bought almost 4 months ago, but after riding i ended up with a pain in my thumb muscle, dunno if its a problem with the shifters shape (old model sora) or that i am grabbing them wrong
i am also thinking that as it was the first time on it and the handling was quite sensitive I could have been too tense while grabbing the drop-bars
>>
>>1707476
The old lever shape always made my hands numb more often than the new ones. The real problem is jamming the soft part between your thumb and forefinger into the lever, so if you get grippier tape it'll keep you from sliding forward as much and make it easier to keep the pressure off that specific spot. Other than that just do what you can to take weight off your hands (don't have saddle too forward or tilted too much) and move them around to other positions when they're getting numb.
>>
>>1707110
Weird, I can find them available at every US retailer I looked at, including Colorado Cycles, Competitive Cyclist, and Universal Cycles (QBP). They seem to be completely out over in Germany, though. I should get some for myself while I can, because Shimano's manufacturing is fucked beyond belief.
>>1707127
Lucky find. Those are usually a bitch to get a hold of, which is why I didn't even mention them.
>>
How do i attach a new bicycle tube to my wheel without puncturing it every time i reattach the tire?
>>
>>1707520
By not being an idiot?
>>
>>1707520
Well I don't know every single thing you're doing, therefore I can't tell you what you're doing wrong. Just youtube it.
>>
>>1707520
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96_2dAQvxvI
>>
>>1707542
This video sucks. How they managed to stretch it to over 8 minutes and leave out actual important tips is mind-boggling.
>>
>>1707520
>Clean the inside of the rim, pay attention to the rim walls and ensure the rim tape is in good order
>Check the inside of the tyre, run your fingers around it feeling for any foreign bodies or other imperfections, wipe it out with a clean damp cloth and allow to dry
>Partially inflate the tube just enough so it can be easily handled, run it through a clean damp cloth, inspect the area around the valve, allow to dry.

When everything is dry and ready to fit give it one more check, then fit the tyre (one side), take the partially inflated tube and push gently into the tyre cavity lining up the valve with the hole. Push the valve through the hole and then begin the process of fitting the rest of the tyre onto the rim. Take care to ensure you aren't pinching the tube between tyre and rim.

Ehen the tyre is completely fitted just check all around on both sides for any sign that the tube may be pinched, also ensure the valve is properly pushed through the hole and nicely aligned, not off centre of crokked in any way.

Inflate.
>>
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>>1707421
mfw
>>
>>1707545
You seem to be under the impression that video was made to help people install a tire, instead of to advertise Zipp, Continental, Park Tool, and Canyon.
>>
>>1707545
coulda just posted a better video instead of just whining about it
>>
Does anyone have experience of these cheap v-brake levers from aliexpress? 66g sounds almost too light so I am a bit worried if there's a chance they would crack under heavy pressure. DiaCompe has 88g levers that I would get any day over these as they are solid quality but they are only for cantilever...
>>
>>1707571
They look nice, but yeah, never trust cheap chink shit with your life. I realize there's a premium on certain brands that make lightweight high performance parts but generally you do get what you pay for with bike components.

If saving weight is that important to you you're going to have to pay for it anon, or steal it, buying tat from china is only going to backfire.
>>
>>1707561
touché
>>1707564
also touché, but also fuck you, it's easier to complain about stuff than it is to help
>>
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>>1707571
They're copies of Extralight's levers. Like other anon said, I wouldn't trust aliexpress "ultralight" levers with something as vital as braking.
>>
I have a bike with an aluminum frame with a carbon fork. I've seen that people believe this is a meme. What are the actual disadvantages of this combo? Should I invest in a new fork?
>>
>>1707571
Those will work just fine but they wont feel anywhere near as good as some basic Tektro brake levers.
>>
>>1707571
I have some
the CNCing is very nice. I like the ergonomics a lot. The return spring is pretty damn flimsy, works, but i can see it breaking. The bolts are tiny. Also can see those breaking.
And there's flex. But not as much as you might expect. All cheap levers have some flex. This degrades braking but not badly.

It's definitely long pull, for v-brakes or mech discs even though they don't say so.
The use case imo, is folding bike, or otherwise slowish speed weight weenie beater. 1 brake lever breaking shouldn't be a catastrophic failure. You have 2 brakes after all. But not good for a more serious bike, if only because of the flex. For a serious bike i'd get some avid levers instead, from the US, that cost more than $20 (or they'll be fake), or some deore/xt long pull levers used.
>>
>>1707572
>If saving weight is that important to you you're going to have to pay for it anon
they're not that cheap. They cost enough to be good. The real issue is just that they're too light

>>1707576
I wouldn't trust this either.

>>1707588
nah both will flex. brake feels probably about the same. And the CNC metal lever on the chink ones is pretty nice.
>>
>>1707571
Just buy some good quality levers ffs, you don't have to spoend fortunes but for the love of God get something that you know isn't going to fail at any moment. Riding cheap chinese carbon bikes is obviously retarded, the science on that is in, it's universally agreed and nobody sane argues against it, this is on the very same level, in some ways it's even worse because decent brake levers can be bought for less than than the prices of a round of drinks, you have to be of a particularly special class of retard to even consider buying cheap Chinese brake levers, it's out there on its own in the retard stakes.
>>
>>1707598
Those aren't unreliable because they're cheap. They're not that cheap. They're unreliable because they're extremely light.

And a brake lever snapping, for a lot of bikes, wouldn't really matter. A fork, saddle, seatpost, or a stem, or a handlebar snapping, is a different story.

If a brake lever snaps on a certain kind of bike it's just meh and you have another brake.
>>
>>1707604
Cheap means low grade materials, low grade design, low grade manufacturing, low grade quality control etc. They are literally designed to LOOK like something that works, do you have any idea how stupid it is to buy something that your safety depends upon that was designed to look like something it isn't?

Use whatever little brain you have, you utter halfwit.
>>
>>1707606
Cheap means money.
They cost $20.
A cheap pair of brake levers on aliexpress is $5. Most of that is shipping.
So it's really more like $16 vs $1
They cost enough for the materials and workmanship to be not bad.

>low grade design
um, what? They're very well designed. The design is just stolen. How does that make them bad? Intellectual property theft isn't good in and of itself but it doesn't make ripoffs badly designed, infact it's the opposite. For complex things it's difficult because the design is often only superficially the same, but these CNCd brake levers are very simple.

It's like Raceface Chesters vs Fookers. That's the most common bicycle example. You have a lot of evidence and anecdotal reporting to weigh up on those. At less than half the price, Is the chinese knockoff as good? Of course not. Is it good? Yes.
>>
>>1707606
>something that your safety depends upon
your safety doesn't necessarily depend on both brake levers working
Can you not imagine a bicycle where a small chance of only having one brake is fine?

brake cables themselves can already snap. It's already a thing.
>>
>>1707571
i haven't tried those in particular but after my experience with cheap TRP RRL knockoffs i would stay away from them. the real TRP RRL and even tektro RL340 were much better quality with smooth non-creaking lever action etc and the knockoff levers came with deep scratches in them so they look messed up as well
>>
>>1707630
good to know about those
tbf though they are half the price and far more complicated than the lightpro levers we're talking about

have you got some real trps? i've thought about getting some for ages
>>
>>1707631
yeah i got like 4 pairs lol of TRP RRL carbon from theurbanbike in singapore. the shipping fee is expensive at least to my country so it's best if you can find them from another store but at the time they had free international shipping over like $200 and i used a coupon code they had for the new year or something. i probably would have gotten the alloy ones though if they had been available for the right price but they were hard to find in europe at least.
>>
>>1707633
lol why'd you get 4 pairs.
>>
>>1707636
to qualify for free shipping
>>
>>1707613
This was my mentality as I asked the question.

>>1707604
>>1707595
I think I will then look for something a bit more traditional like Avid SD7. Building up a retro mtb so it would not have to be downhill stuff, just some easy XC trails at most. Definitely don't want to sacrifice performance for weight, I've thought that every lever is basically the same but it does make sense that lighter means flex.

The 88g DiaCompe BMX levers have held up well so far, but I harvested a pair of nice V-brakes which I will swap in and thus need new levers. Everything in my parts bin has been like half a pound for a pair.
>>
>>1707643
anon us weight weenies don't use pounds we use gramz
>>
>>1707520
If you are using levers, don’t, then use soapy water to make tires easier to put on.
>>
>>1707545
that video was perfect for me, better than any other guide i saw. what tips are you missing? e.g. tying the tire to the rim with a belt is just silly and unnecessary.
>>
>>1707701
I mean I guess I'm biased because I think GCN is a bit over the top sometimes and I also think they spoon-feed people with their informational vids like that one. I specifically don't like that he didn't at all discuss the concept of pinching the bead of the tire down into the rim well to gain as much slack as possible. Once you learn how to do that, you'll need to use tire levers far less often. He just jumped straight to tire levers and taught you how to pry it off. I sincerely think that the ubiquitousness of tire levers leads inexperienced riders to believe that they're an absolute necessity and tires must be stretched on/off of rims with significant force.
>>
>>1707742
well he did emphasize not needing tire levers to put the tires *on*. the method of removing the tires with tire levers works really well imo. for tight fitting tires like gp 5000 i'm not sure i would want to try to remove them without tire levers. carrying tire levers along with your spare inner tube and multitool seems standard so i don't think it's bad advice to tell people to use tire levers to take the tire off.
>>
>>1707744
Yeah, I still carry levers just in case, but I just think the concept is good to learn, rather than just how to use tire levers. Better than the other way around though; JUST teaching how to do it with your hands and not discussing levers at all though.
>>
>>1707744
I’m not either of you guys, but putting the bead of the tire into the dip in the middle of your rim is like, step fucking one
Like without even asking, that’s the first thing you tell someone who’s having troubles mounting tires
>>
anyne knows what width conti tires i can fit in pre cursa (2014) rear chainstays? thinking about winter mode for ice and snow, would be interesting to try conti contact 240 winter 32c on fixed. are open pros ust rims good for this? also any good fork to swap with alpina? i was thinking maybe some 29er carbon, not sure how not to butcher frame geo tho
>>
>>1707748
he does it when putting it on at 5:30
i never had a problem with taking the tire off with tire levers, he also says to do it at the opposite of the valve hole so that the tire will naturally go a bit slack
>>
>>1707750
I'd honestly rather put on CX knobbies than that fine treaded tire. Even trekking or touring tires like the Conti Ride Tour would have better treads than that """winter""" tire. Snow can get packed into those small crevices and you lose traction pretty quick
>>
>>1707754
i guess you're right, maybe i was just excited to try something spiked, god i wish i could fit something like schwalbe ice spiker pro evo. don't have any experience with cx tires, do you have anything to recommend for my situation? in the summer i usually ride something impractical like gatorskins so weight is not my biggest concern
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>>1707613
>chinkshills think it's normal and acceptable to use components that could randomly fail with no reason or warning
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>>1707760
anything like gp 4 season will improve grip over gatorskins. not sure if you really need winter specific tires since a fixie naturally gives you traction feedback through the drivetrain and encourages you to corner smoothly so that you don't get pedal strikes or lose traction in a turn. the traffic authority in my country actually recommends narrow bike tires because they cut through the snow to make contact with the asphalt underneath..
>>
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This is my shitbag bike
Whats a good hybrid or road bike for $1,000 Canadian
>>
>>1707780
t. has never experienced winter
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>>1707788
t. thinks you need the bike equivalent of a monster truck to ride on plowed city streets which middle aged women and schoolchildren ride on effortlessly without spending any money on studded tires or even giving it a second thought
>>
>>1707793
>which middle aged women and schoolchildren ride on effortlessly
Yeah no. Only deliveristas and people with an axe to grind (i.e. people like me) ride when there's a 3 foot black and grey snowbank in the bike lane and all the potholes are camouflaged with slush. Middle aged women on their Moots hybrids don't ride between November and late April, and schoolchildren on their Big Rippers don't ride outside of the summer months.
>>
>>1707794
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kA_9Mtqk_Gg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rETLfzQrIw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMv3OB6XHvQ
>>
>>1707795
>netherlands
Opinion disregarded, get a trip so I can filter you
>>
>>1707796
i guarantee you the dolan pre cursa anon is from some european country so your burger opinion is less relevant than mine
>>
Can I add a-c by going from a ZS bottom cup to an EC bottom cup? I replaced my fork and it went from 395 a-c to 385, 43 rake to 45. I thought it wouldn't be that big a deal but the bike is so damn twitchy now.
>>
Raised my seat and now when I finish rides every part of my legs are sore (in a good way). Does that mean I finally found the perfect spot?
>>
>>1707810
You might just be working harder for no benefit, if you have a power meter and hr meter you can see if you have a higher heart rate for a given output. If not, and nothing hurts in a bad way, then eh stick with it. The soreness might go away when you get used to it.
>>
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>>1707768
it's weight weenies not chinkshiters
these are the people who drill holes in things

those levers are not chinkshit
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>>1707571
you could trim some weight by using a two finger lever
>>
>>1707841
wew that's a chinky fake avid if i ever seen one
>>
>>1707844
kek, it has D4 cast into its under side
it has the appearance and weight of an Avid FR5
>>
I need new tyres for road bike, either 24 or 25mm (bigger wont fit). I am riding in dry conditions and and i am not rich
>>
>>1707892
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/soma-tire-supple-vitesse-ex-700c-kv-2598?category=984
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/soma-tire-shikoro-700c-steel-bead-2596?category=984

high end Japanese tires $15-20 each, normally $45 or $70 each.
because the 23mm size is completely undesirable for the target unracer market.

big bargain
big
>>
>>1707892
>am not rich
Put some layers of latex on your old tires
>>
>>1707892
ah sorry the shikoro is the only one available, for $20
and it's a wire bead tire
still i think it's a pretty good buy.
>>
Good wheel set for a light gravel / adventure bike used mainly on gravel roads and tarmac? I'm going to run 35-40mm 700c tyres, and would like something light and racy but still suitable for bigger loads like light bikepacking. I've taken a look at DT Swiss CR1400, DT Swiss G1800 and Mavic Allroad. Budget under 800€ preferable (continental Europe).
>>
XIAMEN (where all the carbon frames are made) is under lockdown.

Enjoy your evermore bike parts shortage and increasing prices.
>>
>>1707893
>>1707895
I need something from EU because shipping&customs would be too much.
>>
>>1707909
If you go into any local LBS they will most definitely be able to get you one, be sure the rim is 20mm wide, it is the best for 37/40C up to 45/47C
>>
>>1707909
why didn't you fucking say that
folding conti ultrasports off bike24 then
>>
>>1707909
but anon that general advice applies
you can often get 23mm tires now for heavy discounts because no one wants them
and i would rather ride expensive 23s than poorfag 25s, especially if we're talking about a supple poorfag steel bike
>>
>>1707909
https://www.bike24.com/p2305160.html
https://www.bike24.com/p2305147.html
https://www.bike24.com/p2428.html

>>1707915
only the 23mm wire bead version is in stock on bike24
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Continental-Ultra-Sport-Folding-28700x25/dp/B082VNGXDZ/
>>
>>1707915
>>1707919
Continental sucks. My brother has gp5000 it started tearing on sides after 1 year & 2000 km. Others report simmilar problems as well, just asked in a local biking group. I will probably go with Vittoria Corsa Graphene 2.0

>>1707917
The difference in price (23mm vs 25mm) is negligible.
>>
>>1707920
>The difference in price (23mm vs 25mm) is negligible.
you're not listening. Sometimes they have HEAVY discounts. The difference in price is typically negligible.

>sidewall tearing
yeah welcome to good road tires lol. that happens.
>>
>>1707920
gp 5000 is popular for a reason
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=158854
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-endurance-test

get gp 4 season if you want durability without compromising too much performance
>>
complaints about sidewall tears were a lot more common like 5 years ago when people were running like 120+ psi and this was across different brands not just continental. with how popular these tires are there will always be someone who has had issues, maybe runs the tire pressure too high or rides in the gutter or just got unlucky etc.
>>
Can somebody help me in finding out what kind of aluminium alloy were strida 3 bikes made of?
I found information that they were either 7000 series alloy or 7005 or just 7005 described as 7000 alloy, since the frame is clearly welded so it has to be one of the weldable alloys anyway
>>
>>1707972
this says 7005 in the specs at the bottom
7005 is part of 7000 series
best to ask the company if you need to know about a specific model/year
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/folding-bikes/strida-3-stick-folder-review/
>>
>>1707978
yeah I came across that article too
I did look for strida's own spec sheets but it appears they don't provide that anywhere in the manuals etc since being repair friendly apparently isn't a goal they have
>>
>>1707961
Maybe but my Conti Ultrasport 2 which are like 5yo are still in good condition (apart from rear tyre lacking profile) and i ride on shitty roads. Tyres are not supposed to crack on sides, especially if they cost 50+ bucks.
>>
>>1707988
it's not a common issue
this guy has done 5000 km so far without even a puncture
other samples sent in to him was one tire that wore faster than expected (1800 km with 7 flats) but with the previous set lasting 8500 km with 2-3 flats for that rider, and another sample set that lasted 9000 km with 0 flats
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-endurance-test#othersamples
>>
Why are cheap (yet still overpriced) carbon wheels a thing?

They aren't any lighter than alloy wheels, and they surely are more unreliable, have worse braking performance as well.

The only advantage I can see going carbon is when you want deep rims, otherwise alloy wheels are in almost all aspects superior.
>>
>>1708031
The main advantage of carbon (frames and rims) is the stiffness - more energy gets transferred from pedals into rims into the ground, and less energy gets wasted into the heat.
Carbon wheels are still are lighter and more aerodynamic though.
>>
>>1708031
most people have babby tier 2kg wheels that came with their bike and think $400+ for higher tier aluminium wheels is too much money for not enough benefit, going from aluminium to carbon would represent a bigger change at least in their mind. i don't think that many people are actually buying the cheapest carbon wheels though, i think most people realize that they aren't that good if you can't get them from a decent brand that builds them properly with dt swiss or similarly good hubs like maybe farsports/winspace but not no-name ebay/aliexpress or prime wheels.
>>
>>1708032
Lol, no

Carbon wheel rims usually are less stiff than alloy rims, especially when torsional forces apply.
>>
>>1708084
what are you smoking?
>>
i fucked the chain tension thing on one side of my bike by being stupid and stripping the threads on the frame if i took my bike to a bike shop will they be able to fix it i need my bike for my job,also no i cant buy a new one.
>>
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>>1707920
HOW DARE YOU, GP5KS ARE PERFECT AND INDESTRUCTIBLE
>>
>>1708101
It's tough to say without seeing it. But at least know that it's not absolutely necessary to have the tensioner. It's really nice and convenient, but not vital. So don't sweat it too much.
At a shop, they would probably try running a tap through the threads to make sure they're all cleaned up. If you really dicked it and stripped the threads out totally, then there won't be enough material in there to do that and the only option would really be to enlarge the hole and thread it to a bigger diameter.
>>
>>1708101
Not required at all but nice to have. Must've been a decent track frame you fucked if yours came with one. Quit being a hamfisted /o/tist, you don't need as much wrenching torque on bikes as you would on a car.
>>
>>1708032
"Stiff" wheels has fuck-all to do with power transfer.

https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunking_Wheel_Stiffness_3449.html
>>
Can you go fast on a 7-speed Cruiser?
>>
>>1708118
depends how steep the hill is
>>
>>1707988
>Tyres are not supposed to crack on sides, especially if they cost 50+ bucks.
wrong
the way to get the absolute best ride feel (suppleness) and light weight (speed accelerating) is to have very thin sidewalls which are by their very nature prone to be cut up.

This is mostly an expensive road tire thing.
>>
>>1708101
Here's an idea for you anon
Instead of having a bolt through the thread in your dropouts
just have a bolt, slightly undersized, that passes through, and doesn't interact with your dropouts, and a nut on either side of it to hold it there.
>>
>>1708101
Drill and helicoil. Get someone who does automotive thread restoration to do it.
>>1707917
23mm clincher tyres are good for track, sometimes you can get really nice ones for cheap.
>>1707810
For now, yes. Things may change so keep an eye on your flexibility and look out for imbalances.
>>
>>1708165
yeah this, maybe with a bit of tubing to keep it tracking straight.
>>
>>1708089
not him but don't underestimate a good aluminium rim like dt swiss rr 511. carbon rims probably tend to be stiffer although i'm not so sure about the weight weenie and the cheapest chinese carbon rims. the stiffness of the wheel as a whole can be fucked though as people tend to build them with thin spokes with a low spoke count and lightweight hubs.
>>
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Should I buy this?
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/banff-canmore/classic-1995-rocky-mountain-hammer-mountain-bike/1585213529

Not sure about those grip shifters; Every one I've ever had has been trash.
>>
>>1708184
the Grip Shift branded ones are ok
those ones are Gripshift SRT600-80 FFS ?
could be replaced with SL-RS45-8R
8 speed thumb shifters are a bit of a rare thing .eg SunRace SLM96 R8, maybe Microshift or old suntour parts work its a little hit and miss
so its easier to get Shift Triggers or Shimano Altus SL-M310 if you are you keep the old brake levers
>>
>>1708164
>>1708103
>>1707994
Been reading about this very issue and i came to a conclusion:
GP5000 are very good on perfect tarmac, but get torn quickly on bumpy roads with pebbles lying everywhere. I live in eastern EU so i will buy tougher tyres.
>>
>>1708197
don't go full meme though like with gatorskins or marathons
maybe gp 4 season or an equivalent from another brand
>>
>>1707905
Please respond
>>
>>1708197
It cuts both ways, Supple tires (ones with thin sidewalls) are prone to cuts on rough roads, but for the exact same reason they also offer the most comfortable ride on rough roads, so in another way they're ideally suited to that terrain.
I've ridden a lot of actual gravel routes on gp5k and they're excellent. Also that those expensive supple road tires tend to be the ones for their size with the absolute best grip too.

And when you think about it the other way around, a tougher tire with thicker sidewalls, which will be uncomfy to ride, is more forgiving on a perfectly smooth road with no bumps.

But yeah, for something quite good but on the tougher side, 4 seasons is a good rec.
>>
>>1708184
Not a bad buy, but I would much rather a similiar rigid bike.
>>
>>1707905
I think this is really too niche a question to get consumer preferences here man. I would just advise you consider/ price a custom wheel build if you have a good wheelbuilder in a shop or independant, locally to you.

Which would probably be the most bombproof option and achievable within your budget. I'd also suggest pricing a front dynamo hub. You lose like 6 watts but it's so awesome for touring with.
>>
>>1708232
If I eyeball correctly that's RockShox Quadra suspension. It is a terrible fork but actually fairly lightweight at 1.3kg. A new Surly rigid fork weighs almost the same.
>>
>>1708235
wow ok that's pretty impressive. Although it is still about 500 grams, (significant) over a rigid fork from an equivalent bike from that era.
weight aside it's more an issue of ride quality for me. I think good rigid 90s mtbs are just far more fun.
>>
>>1708184
just get off the meme that is indexed shifters, and get some chink friction shifters (until you find some nice ones on a flea market)
>>
>>1708241
yeah this
you feel your way into gears and shifts are a bit slow and the thing is fucking plastic but other than that it just werks
ez fix
>>
>>1707958
Vittoria Lion has been having delamination problems with their cotton tires like the Corsa, and with the stuff they manufacture for Wolfpack (Race Cotton), Specialized (Turbo Cotton), Terk (R320), etc. It's been going on for a couple of years now. I dunno what the problem is, maybe they switched up the adhesive they use to glue the rubber tread to the cotton casing to something that loses adhesion in certain conditions?

I have GP5ks on one of my bikes, 700x25. Good rolling, okay puncture resistance, pretty comfy, but sidewalls feel squishy on hard cornering even when I have the tires inflated rather high. I wouldn't push them anywhere near as hard into corners as Turbo Cottons or Veloflex open tubbies or even Pasela PTs. The TLR versions with the reinforced sidewalls may be a different story but I haven't tried those.
>>
What's a good, mid-level, full-suspension bike these days? Not looking to do trials-type riding anymore, just want to be able to ride over roots while staying seated. I'll be riding with clipless pedals this time around.
For comparison, my current bike is an old 1999 Gary Fisher hardtail.
>>
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>>1708244
>just want to be able to ride over roots while staying seated
>>
>>1708089
Not the marketing shill semen you do, obviously.
Same retards who eat up the lies that you can both have stiffness and comfort.

I guess the average "GCN" cycling video consumer is double digit IQ.
>>
What gear am I supposed to keep my chain in when not in use
>>
>>1708253
cling film works fine to recirculate evaporated lubricant
>>
>>1708239
Yeah. I agree. It's a shame there's no reasonably priced triple-butted rigid forks available anymore. Every reasonably priced steel fork on the market weighs almost as much as 90s suspension
>>
>>1707905
dt swiss is legit
>>
>>1708244
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiwP-hyRAxw
>>
>>1708244
>want to be able to ride over roots while staying seated.

That's not a thing. The purpose of suspension is to keep the tires in traction, not to cushion you. When you ride over shit with a bike, you do it in attack position. If you can't or won't, you'll eventually endo or washout and damage the bike and/or injure yourself.
>>
>>1708244
Why are full suspension bikes 3 times more expensive than hardtails? Because of that 1 extra spring?
>>
>>1708302
a high spec hardtail can cost a bunch too
>>
>>1708302

Normie tax
>>
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>>1706806
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyBjChjLGAI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOsxgzlK1-Y


I have the same chain and I see these guys installing without tools. I have no idea how they're doing it.
>>
>>1707141
I know this may perhaps be your first roadie with sti shifters but your default position is the hoods you should be in the hoods 95 percent of the time
>>
>>1708208
Make me
>>
>>1707808
looks like I'm gonna find out, this is the cheapest EC44/30 cup I could find, wish I could just buy the lower.
>>
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Guys the bike was new and the more I ride it the more i see the black paint getting chipped.
I suspect is the chain hitting the frame.
How do I stop this from happening?
Also Im thinking about wrapping that part of the frame as a temporary solution
>>
>>1708341
Chainstay protectors are a thing, go buy one
>>
>>1708314
Why would you even need tools, anon? Thats the point of chainlink.
>>
>>1708344
Cool I dont need to wrap ugly ducktape.
>>
>>1708168
>>1708165
>>1708104
thanks for the responses bros /n/ is the best board on 4chan.
>>1708105
>Must've been a decent track frame you fucked if yours came with one
it was a budget fixie(golden cycles co bike i got for $260)
>>
>>1708349
a lot of people wrap an old inner tube, looks ok I guess, does the job
>>
>>1708314
It's a cunt but it's possible. You literally bend the chain hard until the link flexes enough that the pin can fit into the slot. You do basically the same thing with the special pliers except with a little more control. Every time I do I struggle for 10 minutes until I'm 99% sure it will never ever fucking work, then it magically just randomly decides to click in even though I didn't do anything different.
>>
>>1707021
>older Raleighs had their own measurements.

Man, Sheldon brown knows everything about bikes it seems, thanks anon, guess I haven't gotten to that one yet.
>>
i think my compression plug fell through. how do i get it out?
>>
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Would going from a 26x2.00 front tire to a 26x2.50 tire (with appropriate PSI) be noticeably more comfortable on the road?

I currently have two 26x2.00 tires on my heavy rigid "touring" bike that weighs 80lbs. My rear chainstays won't allow for a wider tire but my front fork has room for going from 2.00 to 2.50. Is it worth it for $40? Maxxis Hookworm is the only 2.50 inch 559mm tire I can find. Or should I replace the front fork with a new one that can fit a 26x3.00+ tire? Comfort is my main concern here, this bike is heavy as shit and I put thousands of miles on it, 90% on the road 10% light hardpack trails.
>>
>>1708461
you should focus on getting a supple tire then
probably not maxxis hookworm
get DTH tanwall folder in 2.3

yes it will be comfier
>>
>>1708461
like the other anon said, get better tires instead of wider
alternatively, just let some air out
>>
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This bike has been rotting in my garage for 10 years. What do i have to do to make it as functional as possible? I have so far
>lubed bearing on both weels
>replaced chain&casette.
>will buy new tires
What about bottom bracket and suspension?
>>
>>1708604
1) look in the following link, under Tire Wear - it'll let you know if you really need new tires. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html

2) I'd definitely overhaul the bottom bracket, take that system apart, clean out all the old grease and dirt and replace it with new grease. I'd do the same with the headset (the part where your fork and handlebars are connected to your frame. The suspension fork could probably use checking up on but my bike is rigid so I couldn't tell you.

3) check up on the brakes - lube the cables in the tubing, see if they brake just fine or if you need new pads.

4) true up the wheels if they need it.
>>
>>1708459
... Flip bike upside down?
>>1708604
If it's a coil suspension fork it's probably fine, bottom bracket grease may have hardened up a bit but also may be fine, just spin the cranks without the chain to feel it.
If it were just sitting and not used your chain and cassette may have been fine, just needed a good cleaning and re-lube.
The worst part of a bike sitting that long other than the rubber rotting imo is the cables, braking might be fine but the shifters will shift sluggishly and imprecisely until you recable. You should do the brake cables also for safety purposes.
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>>1708461
>80lbs
How? Is that with panniers?
Anyhow - you don't need to buy anything, just lower the pressure of what you already have or invest in a suspension fork.
>>
>>1708604
check chainrings for wear
change wires and housings
dish true and balance the wheels (last one is optional and only if you intend to travel far)
overhaul the pedals
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>>1707892
I use vittoria zaffiro pro on my daily bike. It's cheap and works for me.
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>>1708374
>It's a cunt but it's possible. You literally bend the chain hard until the link flexes enough that the pin can fit into the slot. You do basically the same thing with the special pliers except with a little more control. Every time I do I struggle for 10 minutes until I'm 99% sure it will never ever fucking work, then it magically just randomly decides to click in even though I didn't do anything different.

Fuck me man. I've been struggling for 2 days on this. Literally hours and hours. Nothing works. Supposedly this takes less than a minute? Fuck.
>>
what tires won't slip on sand?
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>>1708637
After another 15 minutes of struggling I got it. The key was I stopped looking at it and trying to very specifically thread it, but instead just bend the chain.
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>>1708638
Lower the tire pressure and put on a faster gear, to lower your pedaling cadence. That's how cyclocross riders do it.
>>
Why is a tapered head tube gud?
>>
>>1708714

Increases overall rigidity of the front-end by quite a bit which has a variety of positive effects like reducing bearing wear but it is mainly of tremendous importance to MTB handling. An extremely stiff front end is crucial to not dying.
>>
>>1708638

high volume, low pressure, and possibly also add some water to your tubes
>>
>>1708611
i got it out with a coat hanger and reinstalled my compression plug
>>
what seatpost do u guys recommend
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>>1708738
For what style of bike? What diameter? What length?
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>>1708738
Elita one
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>>1708739
27.2
gravel
idk im just replacing my previous one because the saddle bolt is stripped and i can't remove the saddle
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>>1708738
depends on your budget

>>1708756
>replacing a seatpost for a stripped bolt
bruh
Take it to a shop and have them drill it out, replace it with a new bolt from home depot, then don't be a retard and use the correct hex wrench next time (and no, the closest SAE size isn't 'close enough' for a metric size bolt)
>>
>>1708757
>and no, the closest SAE size isn't 'close enough' for a metric size bolt
It's basically fine 99% of the time and customers are stupid so fuck them just grab whatever's closest
>>
>>1708738
thomson elite<tune starkes<tune leichtes
>>
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>>1708768
>tune leichtes

>$300 for a seatpost
>$300 for an aluminum seatpost
>any amount of money at all for a 170g aluminum seatpost
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>>1708757
yeah but my current seatpost isn't a 2 bolt it's that ghetto kind with ridges and that metal cylinder at the top
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>>1708771
Well still take it to a shop so you at least don't have to buy a new saddle too.
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>>1708774
but i bought a new saddle already and I definitely want to replace my current one
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>>1708778
Well then we're back to
>depends on your budget

I have this one on my gravel bike and it's aight. Looks like only 400mm in stock but too long is better than too short.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Whisky-No7-Carbon-Seatpost
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>>1708723
>add some water to your tubes
u wot
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>>1708770
more like 200, but yes, it's a fancy seatpost, maybe anon has a fancy cx

>any amount of money at all for a 170g alu seatpost
what's wrong with lightweight alu components? i see it as a nice option if you don't want to go carbon
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>>1708760
this is why you get stupid customers while smart customers try to be self reliant
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Got new shifters but the sides of the levers have hard corners and it's a little annoying. Maybe it'll wear down over time, but anything else I can do to round them off or something without disfiguring them?
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>>1708738
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000225740992.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32969142304.html
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>>1708788
try to get used to it? you shouldn't touch the back of the lever much while riding. you could take a fine grit sandpaper to them very gently but it might ruin the finish.
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>>1708788
no lol
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>>1708607
>overhaul a cheap cartridge bottom bracket
why do you keep saying this
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>>1708788
I have the same in Sora, never bothered me during riding. You simply don't touch them.
>>
going to buy a used carbon bike tomorrow (giant trinity elite). never had anything to do with carbon. how do I make sure it's not going to fall apart and kill me on my commute?
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>>1708838
really closely scrutinize the whole frame for cracks and abrasions

shallow scratches and peeling clearcoat are probably fine but really not great

i'd also try put some watts down pushing a big gear up a hill and see if the bb creaks, could be an easy fix but also might not be.
>>
>>1708838
also worth checking there isn't rash on any of the components, indicating a crash.
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>>1708838
Inspect the frame by knocking on it with a coin. The dull knocks will reveal the hidden cracks.
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>>1708840
>>1708841
>>1708843
I'll definitely be looking for crash damage and test riding it under load. luckily there are heaps of horrible brutal hills here. gonna do the coin trick too. if I take it to a LBS longer term will they inspect it for me?
>>
Hate bike industry, simple.
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>>1708798
That bike looks like old enough that it could be a cup and cone.
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>>1708846
>if I take it to a LBS longer term will they inspect it for me?
maybe one you're friendly with, on a specifically informal basis
bike shops will be very wary though of taking on liability for anything that might possible go wrong with the bike though, for next to no reason.
>>
that's what I was thinking, are bike shops going to tell me to jog on when I ask them if a carbon bike is still good or am I going to find someone who can give me an answer?
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https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/tourney.html
Why are there 16 different Tourney derailleurs but only one from other lines?
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>>1708884
Nah dude. It has V-brakes
NOTHING with v-brakes will have cup and cone. Even early 90s mtbs would almost never had cup and cone. Cartridge came in then and it stayed.
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>>1708890
what are you actually asking
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>>1708898
My bike has Vs and cup-and-cone BB.
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>>1708903
ok no you're actually right below a certain level of shitness which that bike is possibly below.
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>>1708908
Honestly, it could be a sealed bearing, in which case, yeah, just ride it until the cranks don't spin freely when the chain is taken off, then just replace the bearings. You *COULD* overhaul them, but it's better not to.

That bike just looks cheap enough that it could go either way I've never even seen that brand before. My commuter has Vs and a cup and cone, my dad's commuter I think has a front disc brake and a cup and cone bb and headset. Cheap bikes be all kinds of wacky.
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>>1708892
because
YOU WILL OWN NOTHING AND YOU WILL BE HAPPY
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>>1708908
It's definitely a cheap bike, but I don't know what brand it is, it could easily have a cartridge, in which case don't overhaul it, just ride it until the cranks don't turn freely with the chain removed.

Department store bikes be weird, I don't know if that brand makes good bikes or not, but I haven't seen it. My bike is old as heck and has V brakes and cup and cone BB, my dad's bike is a bit old and has a front disc brake, rear V brake, and cup and cone BB.
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>>1708898
Almost every box store bike ever from 2000-2010 has both vbrakes and cup&cone.
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>>1708920
>>1708925
Fuck me, sorry for double posting. The first post didn't show up.
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>>1708892
there aren’t, there are at least two per group (not counting DI2)
dura ace and ultegra are new, hence them not even having mechanical options yet, previuos ultegra had like 4-5 mechanical rds
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>>1708890
in the UK they have shops that can scan them, they're used for insurance claims like if a car ran into them
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>>1708900
is it likely a bike shop will undertake to check a carbon bike or is it too great a liability for them
>>1709065
interesting. is it expensive?
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>>1709107
>is it expensive?
You can buy a new bike for the price
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Are identification questions okay? Can delete if not.
I have this single-speed Dawes bicycle and I don't know the model. It's third-hand, and must have left the original owner before 2013. It looks similar to e.g. the Kalahari or Mirage here https://thebikelist.co.uk/dawes , but the curvature of the frame above the front wheel is in the same direction as the front wheel, so it looks more like (0. I've checked Dawes catalogues up to 1994 and they have nothing like it, but I can't find more recent catalogues. I've also tried searching for physical descriptions like `Dawes cycle oval frame fixed gear' and looking through eBay, but with no luck. Only have this one old photo because I'm not at university right now and it is. Also means I don't have physical access right now.
I'd appreciate any pointers to other sources I could check through.
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>>1709135
Its a shitty but probably mostly functional single speed utility bike, why do you care what the specific model is?
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>>1709160
maybe he's looking for specs so he can buy parts to repair it
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>>1709160
autism
>>
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did I buy an appropriate bicycle for a paved/hilly commute with some fast roads?
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>>1709107
Well that's a false dichotomy.
Because, it depends.
Can you get an informal opinion from an informed set of eyes? Yes

Will they want to give you a guarantee, and be responsible if anything goes wrong (lots of things can go wrong by chance on a bike). No they won't.

You might also get two different versions of 'fuck off', that it isn't fine when it is fine, or that it is fine when it isn't fine. You're also stuck in the odd zone of giving them money where if you give them money it does imply they're liable for it which they won't want to be unless you give them a lot of money and you might coerce a very very conservative opinion by doing so but if you don't give them money they probably won't be that thorough. Or that a bike shop might be inherently against the idea of giving opinions on used bikes, because they want to sell you a new bike.

I think it's really a favour from a specific mechanic at a bike shop who you have a friendly relationship with. I think i already explained this to you but that was the long version.
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>>1709193
No. You're massively overgeared by not having a compact crank, and riding roller hills will be akward as fuck because of where those shifters are.

You could convert it to drop bars, and put the bar-end shifters on the ends of the drop bars. Just need some straight drop bar brake levers. Or try get some STI shifters for it, preferably used because new they're quite pricey. It might actually ride quite well with drop bars although you'll have to finesse the fit and i hope your roads are smooth because it will always be harsh as fuck. I'd also de-sticker the wheels so it looks a bit cleaner.
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>>1709196
damn u managed to type all that while I was passing u impressive
>>
>>1709193
Hope you like piss
>>
>>1709198
It's pretty funny that it has cheap tires as well
you've got this bike that is ostensibly hyper focused on speed and then it shits the bed and cucks you on rolling resistance
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>>1709199
in what way anon
>>1709201
honestly I don't know anything about bikes I bought it cause it looks cool. I ride a mountain bike to work in a single gear in a t shirt and shorts then drive a truck all day mate
>>
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>>1709202
Basically anon, it's a triathalon/time trial bike
they're extremely fast because of aero, but they're designed to be ridden solo on closed courses, and the bike control you have is terrible. They're also not good at climbing because the leverage and riding position is bad. So much so that people racing time trials, often eat ~10 secs to change bikes for hills.

Now the wheel base of that bike will always be short, making it handle fast/twitchy, which can be good, but you can convert it to a road steering setup with drop bars which I would do for a commuter. Just my 2c. It's sketchy as fuck.

But yeah it looks cool. Also triatheletes piss themselves.
>>
>>1709202
>in what way anon
The stereotype about triathletes is that they piss on their bikes so they don't have to stop and lose time while racing. And the tryhard casuals that wish they were good racers just do it while training to make themselves feel cool.

Also, what that other anon said. Bikes like that are good at going fast in straight lines but are pretty shit at most everything else. It's like a road bike but more specialized.
>>
>>1709204
its a 30 minute commute, be right as long as I look cool
>>
>>1709204
>>1709209
is it OK if I don't piss myself
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>>1709211
i'm not saying don't piss yourself
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>>1709212
I don't think I want to
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>>1709204
also I can't get the lowest 2 or 3 gears
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>>1709211
Sorry anon, you made this bed and now you're gonna piss in it.
>>
>>1706806
Is there a legitimate reason I can't take my bicycle through a fast-food drive-thru.
I keep getting told to fuck off.
>>
>>1709219
Just rules and regulations coming from the top. Probably some liability/safety reasons like they don't want you to get hit by a car if you're walking or riding your bike in the drive thru. But also for their safety. It's easier for someone to grab the employee or try to get into the drive-thru window if they aren't in a car.
>>
>>1709221
Thanks anon
>>
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>>1709209
>The stereotype about triathletes is that they piss on their bikes
>>1709193
>rusty chain and saddle rails
Checks out.
>>
>>1709229
>>rusty chain and saddle rails
The saddle rails are carbon, they don't rust. Carbon rails look like this after you ride 10km in dusty conditions when the dust sticks to the dried piss.
>>
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>>1706806
I'm going to start riding to work, the bike i'm going to use has a standard ultegra 6800 road chainring. Since i'm not racing to work, should I swap it out for a sub compact? picrel, from 52/36 to 41/33 and 11-25 to 14-28. I've got 52-36 11-23 on another bike, figured I could give compact a go. is this a dumb ratio?
>>
>>1709250
Why don't you just ride it and get a feel for what's right for you yourself?
>>
>>1709250
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/ultegra-6800/FD-6800-F.html
>Top gear teeth 46-53T
Don't think you're supposed to use a big ring smaller than 46T. And having a top 90rpm speed of 21mph on a road bike is just embarrassing.
>>
>>1709250
can't you just ride to work on your current small chainring?
>>
>>1709229
>>1709240
my bike isn't covered in piss u fuck wits
>>
>>1709215
sheldon brown
rj the bike guy
>>
in the lowest gears my chain chaps the front derailleur. I've adjusted the stop screws to the point I'm worried they're going to fall out and it still doesn't seem to be enough clearance to cease this relentless chapping. is something bent? surely if it was a rear derailleur problem it wouldn't chap the front derailleur because the chain line is direct from rear cog to front cog
>>
>>1706857
Most pros size down their bike but no-one sizes up. Downsides to too small is that the riding position will be very aggressive without goofy stem risers and having too much seatpost out just looks wrong. The latter is fine and cool though if you are actually so big that there is no sizes for you.

No experience on too big but it might be quite difficult to handle a roadie with a mtb stem.
>>
>>1709265
It's not something silly like you adjusting the limit screw but forgetting to adjust cable tension to match?
>>
>>1709267
it may well be but to me it looks like the derailleur physically can't move any further towards the centre line of the bike. does that sound dumb?
>>
>>1709265
>>1709270
by "chap" you mean rub, right?
maybe it's the front derailleur angle, on the lowest gears the chain is not straight, so if your front derailleur is slightly angled outwards it would rub against the chain on the lowest gears
it could also be that your bottom bracket spindle is a bit too short, which would make the crankset sit closer to the frame, closer than the front derailleur is capable of
>>
>>1709274
interesting, I'll check tomorrow.
>>1709267
wait do I need to do more than disconnect cable to relax the tension?
>>
>>1709274
by chap I mean bang, I can hear it clicking and don't want to ride it til it's fixed lest I fuck it permanently
>>
>>1709262
You sure about that?
https://www.amazon.com/Flashlight-Vansky-Ultraviolet-Blacklight-Eliminator/dp/B01A5KLUG2/
>>
>>1709276
>wait do I need to do more than disconnect cable to relax the tension?
That plus the limit screws. If you look at the perfect angle you'll hopefully be able to see the inside end of the screw and verify that it's loose enough that it's not touching anything.

>>1709277
Chain rubbing on the derailleur won't break anything, just be annoying. Maybe if you rode it that way for years you'd wear a path on the inside of the derailleur, but all that'd do is reduce the problem.
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>>1709283
thanks so much anon I'll bring it back to totally detensioned and align it right tomorrow
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>>1709240
Those are not carbon rails. The seatpost is carbon, the rails are clearly not the same material.

>>1709262
keep telling yourself that anon
>>
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>>1709210
gotta wear an aero helmet tho
>>
>>1709160
Well, it's some of
>>1709162
and some of
>>1709182
It's been bothering me that I don't know the specific model, and now I need to do some minor repairs. Won't have physical access for another couple of weeks, so I've been looking for specs
>>
Wrap-around shades that'll fit over prescription glasses - any budget recommendations? From what I've read, prescription cycling shades are either expensive, rubbish, or both
>>
>>1709213
It is no longer up to you
>>
>>1709369
Wear contacts
>>
>>1709369
This prescription pair from Zenni worked pretty well for me, the curve fit my face well enough to block most of the wind and I had it made with what ever knockoff of transitions Zenni uses so it worked great in all types of weather. I crashed and broke it and now it's discontinued, I don't know how well their current sport offerings work, might just roll the dice again and order the closest looking thing. Beware as some of them are just prescription inserts attached to normal sunglasses.
>>
>>1706806
Is replacing my chinesium 7-speed cassette with a fixed gear a retarded idea?
I don't want to go buy another bike
>>
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>shifter can only go from 1 to 2, can't go to 3rd gear
Can this be fixed or is the shifter broken? I remember having the full range a while ago
>>
>>1706806
My chain skips ahead when pedaling hard, usually when accelerating after a stop. Not every revolution, but it's reliable enough that I can replicate it in seconds when I try.

How do I determine if the problem is in the chain itself or cassette, or the freehub is fucked, or the hub itself is skipping in the wheel?

I just got the bike in June, I'm really pissed off that I'm already having this problem.
>>
>>1709449
Hub spacing of the frame will be too wide for a fixed gear hub, and even if it wasn't you'd need an entire new wheel. If you don't want gears just don't shift.

>>1709464
Are you sure the lever itself is messed up or maybe it's just the derailleur out of adjustment? If it's the shifter you could open it and see if anything's gunking it up or if the cable's frayed or bent inside or something, but I wouldn't get my hopes too high. If it's the derailleur you should be able to readjust it - with luck just fiddling that knob on the right there will be sufficient.

>>1709470
Chain's fucked m8. Probably the freewheel too. Not too hard to replace but will be a few bucks plus some tools if you want to DIY...
>>
>>1709464
cable is too tense, use the barrel thingy there to release some tension,
if barrel thingy is already at most loose... welcome to 3 by hell
you will have to release the cable from the deraulier and thinker with the tensions for an eternity to get it right
read more on the lbs 3 by genocide conspiracy theory
>>
been trying to piss myself on my triathlon commuter bike and can't manage it because of shyness. any tips?
>>
What shorts should I wear when riding
>>
>>1709540
Make sure it is perforated so it doesn't hold too much of the piss
>>
>>1709540
Polyester. Ideally the type of material that doesn't look different when it gets wet so no one can see your ass sweat/piss.
>>
>>1709502
can't find anything on this genocide
>>
>>1709559
Shimano is covering it up until they can sell off their stock of triple cranksets.
>>
what are the flashiest most stickertastic wanker tyres available in 700x23(ish)
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>>1709540
cycling shorts
the non-bib kind is fine but you should have the chamois
>>
should i freeball when cycling?
>>
>>1709585
in padded cycling shorts yes
>>
>>1709572
>>1709601
Fuck off diaperjew.
>>
>>1709602
pathetic
refusing to wear a helmet, cycling shorts, use clipless pedals etc is ridiculous noob incel tier
you think you're smart but you're really dumb or at best a midwit
grow the fuck up
>>
>>1709606
>BUY WHAT I TELL YOU OR I'LL CALL YOU NAMES
compelling
>>
>>1709606
clipless pedals are memes aren't they in street riding? make it harder to put your feet down and the meme about powering your up strokes isn't true? did u just come out as a moron? kek
>>
>>1709619
SPD pedals and shoes are fine'
>did u just come out as a moron?
yeah you
fucking midwit
kys
>>
>>1709823
>>1709823
>>1709823
>>
>>1709464
is it actually not clicking 3 times? or is the top plate with the indicator just not spinning
the latter doesn't really matter
>>
>>1709619
spds are well worth it
whenever someone says they are not, i immeditaly know then don't ride a bike so their opinion is completely irrelevant
>>
>>1709997
>buy this thing because I'm right and everyone who disagrees is stupid
Stop, you already convinced me the first time.
>>
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>me no like gcn
>me no afford good pedals
>me no consoom
>>
>>1706806
bump
>>
bomp





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