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/BBG/- catch all thread for questions regading the purchase of new or used bicycles.

places where you can get new bikes RIGHT NOW:
playtri
wiggle
ribble
canyon
poseidon

Old bikes:
Facebook marketplace
craigslist.org
your local bike co-op

REMEMBER: Nobody ever regretted spending too much to get a cool bike.
>>
>>1684541
don't just look at online retailers, check with the top brands like trek, cannondale, specialized, giant
>>
>>1684541
>nobody ever regretted spending too much to get a cool bike
pls stop
>>
>>1684569
That is true, however Trek is backed up about 6 months and I haven't seen a CAAD since before covid.
>>
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>>1684541
>REMEMBER: Nobody ever regretted spending too much to get a cool bike.
wrong
>>
>>1684576
he didnt buy that bike though
>>
>>1684571
>>1684576
Here come the poors shitting up another /bbg/ thread.

>REMEMBER: Nobody ever regretted spending too much to get a cool bike

This is also generally true with cars.

In the end that $300 (bike)or $3000 (car) difference between 2 different bikes or cars doesnt matter. Buy the one you like better. Bang for the buck doesnt matter. A bike or car lasts 15 years. Any price differences are negligible over the life of the product.

In conclusion- shoot your shot, buy the red bike, don't let growing up in uncertain times make you have cheapness/money neurosis like the depression era generation.
>>
>>1684569
At least by me, playtri is brick n mortar
>>
>>1684580
this. anything below $3000 is well below the point of diminishing returns. if you live in a first world country your budget is completely arbitrary, if you have $600 you can come up with $1000 and get a bike that's on a whole other level. you will spend money on accessories, maintenance, upgrades, food etc over the course of your bike ownership that the few hundred bucks spent up front makes fuck all of a difference in the long run.
>>
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I'm considering getting into bike riding around my city and was wondering if you could recommend me a dependable bicycle?
>>
>>1684602
cannondale quick 3
>>
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>>1684584
friendly reminder that this poster literally does not even have a bike
>>
>>1684541
>Nobody ever regretted spending too much to get a cool bike.
Wat bullshit is this
>>
>>1684584
ignore this dumbass, he is poor and doesn't ride. having money left to get a good bike computer, saddle, pedals, bottle cages, saddlebag, lights, basic tools, and kit is far more important than the difference between ultegra and 105. even the difference between generic alexrims or vision crap and good entry level wheels is way more important than 105 vs dura ace di2.
>>
>>1684632
did you ever?
>>
are there any brands that sell steel road/touring framesets and SHIP WORLDWIDE?
>>
>>1684653
steel is poorfag cope memery. if you can afford to ship a frame from the other side of the earth you can afford a good frame made of carbon
>>
>>1684654
lmao, garbone retards are all the same
>>
>>1684654
and yet I don't want carbon
hard to believe huh?
>>
>>1684653
of course
for how much moneys ?
>>
>>1684676
If I could get a quality one for around $1k shipped that would be fantastic but I doubt that's realistic
size 54 btw
>>
I current ride a 90's rigid mtb on firetrails, what's a good hardtail upgrade? I was looking at the giant talon 1, cannondale trail 4, and scott scale 970, but I kind of picked the $1000 price point arbitrarily. Is there a good "best value" sort of price point, analogous to 105 for road?
>>
>>1684602
I would check your craigslist for a mountain bike you could convert into a commuter. Failing that, something LIKE but not necessarily the Jamis Coda.

See also mamacharis and commuter bikes. Heavy but reliable.

>>1684653
Each country has fucked up shipping regulations. 90 percent of those frames are from Maxway anyways.

>>1684781
Deore is about tiagra. Look at the suspension and get the RIGHT one for you, and the right geometry. All three of those are solid choices. At that price, I would hope to get out of Suntor crap range, have good hydraulic brakes AND be able to fit a dropper post in the budget, but that last is a stretch I think.
>>
>>1684781
$1500-$1700 is the sweet spot, same as road. That gets you a hardtail trail bike like a Kona Honzo or Specialized Fuze with Deore, a decent air fork (RockShox owns this segment for OEMs), and a dropper post. $1k bikes are okay if you can find one with Deore or even Advent (SRAM at this price point sucks) and a RockShox air fork. Suntour's air forks like the Raidon are good but they never appear on OEM bikes, while their XC* forks are varying degrees of sucky. Then upgrade the seatpost with a dropper like the PNW Bachelor.
>>
>>1684792
>At that price, I would hope to get out of Suntor crap range
sorry to break it to you but 1000 burgers (or equivalent) in 2020+1 barely gets you 3x7 tourney and a suntour pogo stick. And that's if you're lucky and can find anything in stock.
>>
>>1684602
Post your craigslist, budget and where you want to ride
>>
>>1684653
Fairdale? Salsa? All city? Merin usa? Marin?

>>1684828
Not the op but I was curious about this. I have a road bike and wanted an xc mtb. Didnt know if an air shock was necessary. Im not going over to the mtb park much. Whats the Marin one step better than bobcat trail? And should I go steel or AL?
>>
>>1684857
>Didnt know if an air shock was necessary
it isn't.
>>
>>1684683
ribble
>>
>>1684781
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/biking/best-hardtail-mountain-bike
>>
>>1684859
i know everyone says theyre shit and im still rolling around on a coil spring fork from 2014 on my diamondback sorrento beater.

I had heard the suntour xc line of forks were better.

How much more resistance to shocks does a basic rockshox provide compared to the top of the line suntour xc coil biatches?

I see there is a Scott Scale 970 Sram Sx here in 23" xxl frame....I might just impulse buy it this weekend

https://www.bikeexchange.com/a/hardtail-mountain-bikes/scott/mo/kansas-city/scott-scale-970-sram-sx-red-2021/211475717
>>
>>1684857
at the crazy high end of things, coil vs air is still a big debate and there are some great coilover forks and shocks that fuel the fire. At entry level and midrange I think the only coil forks left are the crappy Suntours, so air is the best choice. if you want to go rigid that's cool too but on the trails I ride in Oregon and Washington, anything more than green starts to suck on a rigid, at least on my oldass 26er. Too many roots and rocks and I just skitter everywhere. Although I haven't tried the Jones truss bike, which is supposed to be a great trail bike because of how crazy rigid it is.
>>
>>1684541
Grail AL 7 or CF SL 8?
>>
>>1685026
grizl
>>
>>1684908
stop thinking about it. Just ride.
>>
>>1685196
tech specs matter especially for mountain bikes
that scott scale looks alright, no dropper post though
set the tires up as tubeless
>>
>>1684908
I replaced my shitcoil fork for a RST First air fork.
I was pretty happy with it and the price isn't that high xompared to other air forks
I also weigh 100 kg so they're robust.
>>
>>1685215
I'll probably get the scott scale and add a dropper post later if needed. I don't really do down steep hills here so we'll see if I need it after a few hundred miles on it
>>
>>1684908
MSRP on that bike is $1199, so that bike store is gouging, the fuckers. The SX derailleur is garbage, constantly breaks. Upgrade it to GX, preferably with the shifters. But honestly I'd look for a better deal, overpaying by $300 is bullshit. The $1500 range is when dropper posts start appearing on complete bikes.
>>
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holy shit bros is riding a road bike really like growing wings and flying
>>
>>1685857
yes
>>
>>1685857
yes but it will not make you into a cute girl
>>
>>1685866
hinako doesn't have an ass that fat
>>
>get the latest rivbike email
>maxway has delayed their 2h22 frames to 2023 because of lack of material and backorders
steelbros, not like this...
>>
>>1685867
but she does have a chest that flat
>>
>>1685341
Fuck those guys I have a strict notover msrp policy whether it is a mtb or an xbox. We are in heat advisory season anyway (ride and finish before 11am or you heatstroke)
>>
Good deal or not? Been out of the game for 5+ years and riding a terrible steel clunker atm but not wanting to spend over a grand.8RJP0
>>
>>1686922
i would value it at more like $400 tops pre-covid, but it's probably hard to find a better deal than that. looks like it has some nasty scuffs in the paint. everything is at an older spec so you might lose out on resale value when it becomes old enough to be considered fully outdated. keep in mind you may or may not need to replace some things like the brake pads, cables, tires, inner tubes, chain, cassette, saddle and bar tape.
>>
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Need a tourer. Is this a good deal for £325? Should the slight rust on the chainrings worry me?
>>
So I’m 6’5 and about 350 lbs, looking for a bike in the range of 200 dollars for me to get around a little better. Im hoping someone can help out, not sure how to post the Facebook market place but my zip code is 18503

https://scranton.craigslist.org/
>>
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Looking for a trail bike for about 3000 bong dollars, I have too many bikes already so need one MTB to do all disciplines

Local trail centre is selling rental fleet 2021 Rekt Fuel EX8 XTs and I'm first on the list for one in my size

Has anyone bought an ex rental before? Any alternatives I can get before 2023?
>>
>>1686926
seems a little high to me - that's what, maybe 10 years old ?
lightly rusted chain is fine - make sure it shifts thru all the gears though as replacing those levers would be a pita / expensive.
>>
>>1686922
the new equivalent is pic related for $1000 which is better because of the newer gen groupset. A new claris Allez is also $1000.

I think 1/2 the price of a vaguely equivalent new bike is a very generous price for something several years old like that. Over $500 is ridiculous. I'd suggest saving a bit more and waiting for a deal on something new if its gonna be $680
>>
>>1686922
like yeah anon, if you have $1000, get a new claris rim brake bike with a carbon fork. It should be doable.
Things to angle for would be in-series (shimano) brake calipers, in-series crank, wheel/tire spec, or sora over claris, and paint you like.

Personally I would not want that cannondale unless it was a very good deal (~$300) because I don't like the colourscheme.
>>
>>1686926
It's the cheaper aluminium frame one. I wouldn't buy it (at that price). To me it's not desirable for that reason. Not to mention with a very cheap groupset.
A steel rim brake dawes galaxy on the other hand, would be an excellent buy, and would be a very good example of a dying breed of bike. I think they made fancy 653 tubeset ones even.
>>
>>1686955
https://allentown.craigslist.org/bik/d/harleysville-nishiki-maricopa-large-21/7357164003.html

the frame is a bit small for you and the stem is tiny, you would want to replace it with maybe a 130mm stem. need pedals and bar tape too. you're a big guy but the owner probably didn't cut the seatpost so it might still have enough adjustment range for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8FyZWpUvFM
>>
Is a used Giant Defy good for £575? Listed as being in good condition.

I think it's a Defy 2 or 3 2013, judging from the pattern on the saddle.
>>
>>1687104
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/value-guide/product/3045078/
>>
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Here's my Specialized Allez Comp I bought for cheap (1150€) back in 2017. It is an ok ride, but I think it's rather ugly and would like to upgrade to a 2000-3000€ bike. Anything besides Canyon Endurance CF SL 8.0 I should be looking at? Carbon frame / ultegra parts preferred, but I'm fine with other options as well. I prefer a not-too-aggressive geometry, so was thinking that endurance would be the way to go.
>>
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>>1687106
the claimed weight on the canyon is pretty low, but the other color options than the stealth might add a couple of hundred grams. some of the weight difference could be in the tires, inner tubes, saddle, seatpost, not impossible to upgrade later. it's not all about the weight anyway. you could look at emonda ALR 6 or emonda SL 5/6.
>>
>>1687116
also the ultimate might be better if you don't mind the integrated bar and stem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GE-02ndJxI
>>
>>1687105
Thanks. Might just stick with my shitter for now.
>>
>>1687116
Thanks for the input. I have also looked at the Emonda, but was curious if it were on par with Canyon. I think I slightly prefer the Canyon's geometry with its straighter top tube.
Is there any real difference with how the ultimate feels vs the endurance? I'm not a racer, just like to do 50-100km rides a couple times a week, and I was worried the ultimate might be too aggressive. The Di2 Ultimate version does look lovely though, amazing colour and the geometry looks great
>>
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>>1686964
>>1687000
Thanks bros, what about this for the same price (325)? It's 653 and Deore all over, looks a better deal to me.
>>
>have the money for a new bike
>want a new bike
>started a new job in another country where they have a good cycle to work scheme
>Office is still closed due to covid so I can't justify buying anything
>pain
>>
>>1687134
Yes
I dislike several things about that build.
Whether it's a good deal or not depends on condition, but it is a fantastic bike at heart. I would go for that for sure. Lovely colour too.
>>
>>1687145
Thanks for the review, I think I want this one.

For me, I'd probably put a more upright stem on, raise the saddle and sort out the wonky rack/fenders.

What about the build don't you like?
>>
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>>1687150
the cockpit. The cheap STI shifters, the interrupter levers, the ergo shape bars. With a triple I would rather have a friction shifter. So seeing as that bike has downtube shifter bosses, I would put a front downtube shifter on the left and replace that lever with a regular brake lever. Lance styles.
I would delete the interrupter levers.

the pedals are shit, but that's not really a piece of spec. I don't like marathon tires either. I also would get a smaller granny chainring on that crank. 22 rather than [28?].

Aesthetically a silver stem and seatpost would look better but that's whatever. I'd also rather have better metal fenders, but that's just money. The rack atleast, is a great design, with the twin rails allowing panniers and use of the rack top.

>put a more upright stem on
depends on if you're going to be raising the saddle much, no? do you really want the bars much higher than the saddle?
>>
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>>1687150
If you do want a taller stem, I suggest you get one that points up, like the dirt-drop style on the left, rather than the trad 7 shape like a technomic.
I think they look better with a lot of rise, and it's more efficient, and removes a sharp bump from right there.

You could also look for a stem that has a canti brake stop in it. Those are very cool.
>>
>>1687152
I may well go full bar ends depending on how beat up the STIs are.

I like my saddle quite high as I get bad knees otherwise, so the bars probably have to come up to match.

Personally don't mind those pedals - nice if I need to nip anywhere in normal shoes, good if I want to clip in for actual touring
>>
How well do old bikes compare to new ones? Someone in my area is selling an '08 Giant Defy Advanced Team, which reportedly detailed for $5.5k, for just under a grand.
>>
>>1687330
Retailed*
>>
>>1687330
Newer bikes usually have disc brakes, additional tire clearance, and meme aero tube shapes. The main thing is tire clearance. That bike probably has a max clearance of 700x23 if you're running c13 or c15 (13 or 15 mm internal rim width) wheels. I'm not sure if it even has enough for 700x23 on a c17 wheel. Newer bikes can easily clear 700x28 (and often 32), which makes a big difference in comfort and only a small difference in speed, except for rough roads where 28 is faster. Otherwise, great bike if there isn't any damage. Problem is telling if there's damage. Used carbon is risky like that.
>>
>>1687330
I don't agree that tire clearance, for road riding, is a big issue on a road bike, outside of certain niches like if you actually have gravel sections on your route or live in the country. Older road bikes will almost all fit 25mm tires, if not 28s, and that's absolutely fine for road riding, if not ideal.

The real distinction will be the standard crank vs a compact or semi-compact you'd get today. You don't get as low hill gears. Personally I think that's very bad. If you live somewhere flat maybe it's tolerable. You can change it of course but cranks aren't cheap.

And the real issue, isn't age, it's condition. A nice road bike from 2008, sold cheap, probably has all the parts quite well worn. It's not going to work as well as a new bike simply because it's very worn. And if you did buy it there would probably be quite a lot of work you'd want to do bringing it back to spec. If you're uninterested in doing work on it, i'd put the $1000 towards a NEW entry level claris/sora bike with a carbon fork, which will be a bit heavier, but actually will give you lower gears, and function smoother simply from being new.
>>
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$85 from an lady.

Yep it's a Mercian and yep it's worth $GGGGG's
>>
>>1687430
ahem could we see a large picture please sir
>>
>>1687342
>>1687397
Thanks for the insight.
>>
Is this a good deal?
Bought this bike off an old lady with about 250 miles on the frame - parted it out and built up as follows. Added the Look full carbon fork (NOS) and a fun 1x drivetrain.

- Reynolds 853 Frame (very, very clean - no dents)
- SRAM build (Rival RD, Force shifters, Force brakes - all less than 100 miles)
- Thomson seatpost/stem
- Fizik handlebars
- Fabrik saddle
- NOS FSA SLK Carbon crankset w/44T ring
- Ultegra R8000 rear cassette (new)
- Mavic Cosmic UST wheels (50 miles, a few scratches in brake track that have been professionally sanded down - zero issues)
- Brand new Gatorskin tires (10 miles)
- Gold bling KMC chain
>>
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>>1687578
That absolute fucking moron ruined the bike. Pic related is what it started out as. He turned a really nice bike into a monstrosity. He somehow managed to replace every part with something worse. It is worth nothing.
>>
>>1687578
>>1687631
Wait, it's possible to replace a threaded for with a threadless?
>>
>>1687635
As long as the steerer tube is the right diameter and you replace the headset, it's doable.
>>
>>1687636
>it's doable
but...?
>>
https://www.raleigh.co.uk/gb/en/
is anything this site sells worth getting? i know absolutely 0 about bikes but they look like a style over substance company to me
>>
>>1687631
Wow. That looks significantly better.
>>
>>1687635
He's probably using an adapter, they look decent but i kinda don't like the idea of them. I like quills
>>
>>1687647
Once upon a time they were a good bike company but looking through that website is just depressing. Buy something cheap from ribble if you are a bong looking for an entry level bike that's solid
>>
>>1687631
that is super nice but in truth his fucked up version does probably ride better. looks really shit tho.
>>
>>1687647
don't buy a raleigh this side of the millenium. what is your budget and what sort of riding do you intend to do?
>>
>>1687647
they're very low end. most of this applies to raleigh as well:
https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a20049269/6-reasons-to-avoid-walmart-bikes/

to get into cycling as an adult you should be prepared to spend a bit more money on a more serious bike from a top brand. it will feel much nicer to ride and you'll also be spending money on accessories and maintenance so you don't want the bike to be so cheap that you end up thinking you should just run it into the ground rather than keeping up with the maintenance.
>>
>>1687673
i don't want to say general riding and get laughed at by the anons/recommended a gravel bike, but i live in a mostly roaded area with occasional bits of rough terrain i'd like to visit. budget: completely new so i've no clue of the price ranges
>>
>>1687578
for $1250, hell no. compared to brand new bikes it might be decent in terms of pure spec but it's an unaesthetic hodgepodge build that won't hold its value after covid is done. the other week there were a couple of really nice modern bikes listed for $600 each on craigslist. for $1000+ used i imagine there would be better options out there if you're patient.
>>
>>1687687
>bike from a top brand
I've always been told, for as long as I've been hanging around /n/, that brand doesn't matter; it's all about the components.
>>
>>1687698
it's poorfag cope. even with aluminium frames there are many ways they could be inferior. the build quality of wheels can vary a lot as well, the top brand wheels don't go out of true or break spokes unless you abuse them. they can also cut corners with the components, you have to look closely at the spec sheet. don't sell your soul just to save a few hundred bucks at most for a bike that might be a kg heavier, have a misaligned frame, quick release disc brake wheels instead of thru axle, etc.
>>
>>1687698
also the brand doesn't matter as much if you're choosing between trek and cannondale for example, but if it's a cynical cheapskate boomer brand like bikesdirect whose only selling point is the price then it matters a lot.
>>
>>1687690
so the general spectrum for bikes is this:


<--- road oriented offroad oriented -->
road bike | cx bike | gravel bike | hardtail

If you're mostly riding roads a hardtail (front-suspension mountain bike) is a stupid decision because it will be slow and feel shit.

So assuming you want a suspensionless bike with drop bars, your choice is between road, cx, and gravel.

If you intend to do a substantial amount of riding on seriously rough / borderline mountainbike paths and trails you probably want a gravel bike. I doubt this is the case.

Now the decision between CX and road basically hinges on two factors -- how much will you ride off-road and how 'rough' is rough terrain? If you're on sustrans/national cycle network type routes then you may not need a CX bike. I ride my road bike (which has thinner tyres than most road bikes have today) on some woodland paths and old railway lines without too much trouble. It can be a bit sketchy at times but it makes you a better cyclist. However if you really feel you need the offroad capabilities a CX bike will handle better on rough and loose ground and the higher bottom bracket will stop you slamming your pedals into tree roots and ending up eating dirt.

Don't fall into the meme of buying an off-roady bike for 'flexibility' if 95% of the time you're going to be riding on roads. CX bikes are not terrible on road but nothing is quite like a true road bike which will be faster, handle better, and make you enjoy your cycling more. Best to get a road bike and borrow your mate's mountain bike once a year than buy a gravel bike that will be lethargic on tarmac.

I would say that about 500 quid is a good amount of money to get a very respectable entry-level road or cx bike (depending on what you choose). You can spend less than this and still get a good bike but as other anons have said it really is better to spend a bit more money to get something you're proud of and are going to look after.
>>
>>1687712
anon you're a guru. you've actually just saved me 10 hours of dumb question asking and lurking when you didn't have to at all. thank you very much
>>
>>1687712
There is absolutely no reason for anyone, and particularly a newbie, to get a CX bike unless they are planning on riding cyclocross.
>>
>>1687714
no problem at all if you're starting to have a better idea of what sort of bike would suit you and how much you're willing to spend myself or other folks here can perhaps point you in the direction of some specific bikes that might suit you.

although i suggested 500 quid as an entry level price point you should not treat this as gospel.

in the current market if you spend much less on a new bike you will probably get a shitbox unfortunately, unless you find a cracking deal. a few years ago you could get a fantastic new bike from a serious brand for as little as £350 so long as you were prepared to put up with last gen components, but that just doesn't seem possible these days. so if 500 is too much of a stretch you should look into buying second hand. a bit of a minefield for a new cyclist but you can get lovely bikes for very little money if you're prepared to plough hours of your life into eBay. when you're buying second hand you should also be willing to learn bike maintenance because more likely than not things will break or need adjustment. I bought a '97 steel bianchi a couple years ago for about 280 quid and while i adore it and ride it most days owning it has definitely made me a better mechanic :-)

on the other hand, if you've got more money to spend, every hundred quid more as far as £2000 or so will get you a significantly better bike. For not much more than a grand you can get a bottom-spec Ribble or a Canyon Endurace which is a fantastic bike and for a grand and a half you can get an Allez Sprint which I'm pretty sure people have won professional bike races on.
>>
>>1687718
they ride pretty well on road, are super versatile off road and can even handle tame singletrack, and are normally priced fairly sensibly. in my opinion if every normie who bought a halfords 'hybrid' hardtail went and got a CX bike instead cycling would be much more popular.
>>
>>1687723
CX is for CX racing, it comes with compromise from strict UCI rules and only intended for riding a single CX heat at once with supporting staff and team around you.
What you are talking about are actually the gravel bikes that ride well on road as well on singletrack, they have bosses for bottle holders and racks, have the option to use fenders.
Know this, racing bikes are for racing, they are shit for everyday use. CX is for CX racing, gravel bike is for everyday use.
>>
>>1687724
gravel bikes have bad geometry for road riding
>>
>>1687725
you have bad geometry for thinking
>>
>>1687727
would you seriously suggest a gravel bike to a new cyclist who probably is going to spend 80-90% of the time on roads?
>>
>>1687728
Yes. I do as well.
They are great for new cyclists, good on climbs, take potholes, large cracks and curbs like champs and can be fitted to carry a lot.
>>
>>1687730
i recommend that new cyclists learn to cycle around potholes. if you want to slam into potholes go buy a carrera vengence from gary in the pub.
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>>1687731
And you expect a newbie to perfectly avoid everything in an instant? How stupid are you?
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>>1687733
I think it's patronising to recommend that new cyclists buy a bike that 'goes easy' on them. I'm sure anon knows how to ride a bike and is sensible enough to ride cautiously while they get to grips with things. In any case, a CX bike can definitely eat the odd pothole without too much trouble, though it's not something to make a habit of.
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>>1687723
>cyclocross bikes are normally priced fairly sensibly

>>1687722
Please show me where the fuck you find a decent road/cx/gravel bike for £500.

>>1687725
>>gravel bikes have bad geometry for road riding
>recommends a cyclocross bike instead
Honestly, this anon doesn't know what they're talking about. Be wary of anything they say.
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>>1687735
> Please show me where the fuck you find a decent road/cx/gravel bike for £500.

Most online retailers have their entry level 'real' road bike for sale for about 500 quid. I believe it is still possible to find last-gen entry-level CX bikes for similar money.

A CX bike is objectively better for road riding than a gravel bike. I'm astonished this is a contentious point.





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