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doinitwrong edition

Posting pictures of your issues helps.

https://www.youtube.com/c/parktool/videos
>>
Frame - Scultura lite-single PF86
Fork - Scultura CF2 disc
Crank - Shimano RS510 50-34
Derailleurs - Shimano 105
Shifters - Shimano 105
Brakes - Shimano R7070
Tyres - Maxxis Dolemites 25 fold
For 1050 dollars (converted from other currency). The bicycle is new. I am a newbie, so I am not too sure, but I think it is a pretty good deal, right?
Any opinions about the tyres specifically? Was thinking of switching to Gaterskins or some sort of Schwalbes (maybe even Marathon Plus) no matter what I buy, but maybe these are not bad? Found some Frenchman saying online that they are bad for wet conditions, though, especially climbing.
>>
>>1574690
Maybe I should have just said that it is a Merida Scultura Disc 400, 2019 model.
>>
>>1574690
Don't switch til you wear 'em out
>>
>>1574690
just use gp5000s lmao
>>
>>1574690
I would literally rather ride a 70s road bike with nice tyres than a new road bike with marathon plus
>>
>>1574702
>>1574701
>>1574699
Though I might get laughed at about the tyre ideas.
Still, is it a good deal?
>>
>>1574705
looks reasonable, just fyi the crankset is not FC-R7000 but maybe it won't bother you, it's very common especially on american brand bikes to skimp on the crankset and the brakes, it's no big deal but i know merida makes higher models with full shimano 105 and nicer wheels with double butted spokes, you could look at those as well

i recommend gp 5000 or gp 4 season tires
>>
>>1574690
>>1574698
seems like a decent deal, I don't know anything about the brand
>>
>>1574705
>>1574706
or maybe check if it's really RS510 or FC-R7000, i'm not finding much on google, maybe it's a mistake in the description
>>
>>1574709
found the japanese version with RS510, so there are regional differences with the same bike model name
>>
>>1574710
Yep. You found me out, I am in Japan.
>>
Should I sell my commuter road and around town SS and just ride my meme 90s mtb everywhere? My apt is cluttered with bikes.
>>
What size 90's mtb size is right for 5'8" and 33" inseam?
>>
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>>1574643
What tool do I need to remove dust caps properly without mangling them anons?

Pic very much not related.
>>
>>1574730
If possible, I like to stick a long punch through the hub from the opposite side and tap the dust cap out. That way I don't smoosh it by using it as a fulcrum like in your pic.
>>
>>1574730
Do that but put something like the handle of another screwdriver between the flathead and the hub, and work it out gradually going around instead of trying to pop it off from one place. Also try to use a plastic tool to do the prying.
>>
Whats worse, looking dorky to cagers by wearing lycra or looking dorky to cyclists by wearing cotton shirt + gym shorts on a nice road bike?
>>
>>1574742
Depends on what type of bike you're riding anon.
>>
>>1574742
in the city lycra looks and is silly
80km out on a serious route, casual spec looks and is silly
>>
>>1574746
Its a new Allez, looks very road like. Before I was riding an older steel bike which looked more low profile to wear with cotton shirts.
>>1574747
My usual 55km route is in the hills but to get there I have to go through 15km of city each way. I'll probably just bite the bullet and buy a bib, just don't want to get laughed at.
>>
>>1574748
If you're not riding hard and sweating it up, then casual clothes are fine, especially if you're getting off the bike and need to walk around.
If you're properly going for a hard ride, proper kit will serve you well, cotton shirts drenched in sweat and underwear seams on long rides are not fun.
>>
>>1574742
worrying about it
>>
>>1574718
no, you should come up with a storage solution instead, like hanging it on a wall or something
>>1574723
17"-18"
>>
How steep of a climb can I climb with my road bike? It's a heavy old ten-speed frame with a modern 105 GS (lowest chainring/cog = 34 front/32 rear), MTB pedals, and 700 x 32 tires. I'm also a fat fuck at 186 lbs. I can climb 26% grades all day long tho due to living in the mountains, but some climbs here go up to 50%+ and I'm not sure if I should try them.

Also, what is the ideal hand position for climbing? Tops or hoods?
>>
>>1574760
>I can climb 26% grades all day long tho due to living in the mountains, but some climbs here go up to 50%+
I think your math is off bro
>>
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>>1574760
>some climbs here go up to 50%+
>>
at least you admit to living in the mountains, i apparently live in one of the flattest places on earth judging by the climbs anons say they do
>>
next to the road there might be some lumpy undeveloped bullshit but the actual road is very close to flat
>>
>>1574764
>>1574765
>>1574768


I-I mean it, bros!

https://www.strava.com/segments/9535194
>>
>>1574772
riding a 6km 15% climb with 26% switchbacks doesn't qualify as "climbing 26% grades all day long"
that being said, that is one hell of a climb. if you're fat and you're riding up that thing on a steel bike, congratulations. that's impressive.
for climbs that steep definitely stay on the hoods, you'll need the leverage.
>>
>>1574777

Fine, bro. You're right. My point is, I don't know if I should be saving up for lower gearing or something, because many switchbacks around here max out at 50%+. To my knowledge, climbs like that one are almost always done by people on MTBs with granny gears. The few road bikes I see around here usually belong to skinny older folk, who put triple chainrings on them.
>>
>>1574760
lol anon 'ten-speed' means 5x2 not 10x2

personally i like to have really extremely low gears so i can still just stay seated and spin up extreme gradients.

if you want to modify your gearing to be lower, you could either add a 9 speed mtb derailer and a 11-36 cassette, or, a subcompact double like 46-30 or 44-28, or both. I would highly recommend doing that if you live in a mountains and like climbing. I suffered for too long living in mountains on regular road gearing. I highly regret it.
>>
>>1574781

It originally had vintage 5x2, someone just handed me down the modern kit.

Looks like it's time to save up my brown people wages for one of them super compact cranksets.
>>
>>1574783
post a pic
>>
>>1574780
if your speed is already as low as 3 km/h, i wouldn't bother with even steeper climbs than that
>>
Can anyone recommend a Chinese no-padding saddle worth trying out? I want to experiment with the no-pad, taint-hole style since I suffer from taint pressure.
Basically any saddle you can recommend, ideally without carbon rails. Similar to the romin is a plus (pic related)
>>
>>1574742
>My outfit!
The most important aspect of cycling.
>>
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>>1574760
>>
>>1574706
>gp 5000
i picked these up a couple months ago, along with a set of trail kings for my full-sus bike. they're both really, really nice.
>>
>>1574860
selle SiMP
>>
>>1574888
Sry mate I am specifically looking for chinkshit $20-30 saddles. I should've made that clearer
>>
>>1574780
Assuming you have a double crankset, you could replace it with a sub-compact one. You can also replace your cassette for a bigger one, though this depends on how big a cassette your rear derailleur will allow.
But as the other anon said, you're already crawling up that hill, so either train yourself to ride faster on the same gears, or go look for some other hills that aren't absolute slowmo torture.
>>
>>1574860
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32805433543.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32630430220.html
>>
>>1574918
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32787508902.html
>>
>>1574918
>>1574920
Ty friend. You ever use these?
>>
>>1574947
i have the one with carbon rails for my fixie build, i haven't used it yet but it's a very good shape that's ripped off from specialized, there are more variants than the ones i linked but keep in mind some of them might not be the standard 143mm width

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhgyDpXfzm8
>>
Seized and rounded disc rotor T25 bolt. I have tried a manual hand impact driver, wacking away with a rubber mallet and it just isn't budging. Any other suggestions? It was probably a bad idea trying the mallet, I hope I did not fuck up my hub or really throw my wheel out of true.
>>
>>1574969
Drill it and extract it.
>>
i just want to leave a ty to you smart bike anons for helping us out.
got a lot of issued solved on this thread, it's really nice to have you frens.
>>
>>1574977
we're all gonna make it bro
>>
test
>>
I need a bike for getting around uni next fall. The campus is average size and not in a big city. Should I get a fixie like this: https://www.statebicycle.com/collections/bicycles/products/rigby-core-line
>inb4 just buy a used one online
I live in the middle of fucking nowhere in the south US. There is nothing.
>>
>>1575045
yeah sure whatever
campuses often have a shitton of abandoned bikes though, might wanna inquire first about it, you could get one for free
>>
>>1575045
that bike will work, cycling enthusiasts would rather have a different frame material than hi ten steel but it's a capable bike for the price, much nicer than a dutch bike

this would be a fast and fun ride if you can afford it:
https://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/pavement/urban/feather/feather
>>
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>>1574888
>Recommends a $300+ saddle that feels like sitting on an axe blade
7/10, good one.

>>1574969
Use a screw extractor if possible, you don't want to damage the spider in any way.

>>1574977
/n/ is a place for frens m8.

>>1575045
As long as it has brakes and you're not in a hilly area, a fixie or singlespeed would fit the bill and cost little to maintain
>>
>>1575045
Get literally any bike that you can get your hands on. I don't know if you WANT a nice bike, or you want a "uni bike", aka a rusty shitter leave it in the rain ride it till it dies.

I wouldn't spend more than $150 on a "uni bike" by my definition. It would be a old friction shifter road bike, only upgrade would be tires from this decade. Or maybe a shitty 90's mtb. Post your craigslist bro I don't believe there is literally nothing.

I guess that state bike is fine, but it'll feel like riding potmetal. But yea its dead simple I bet it will last you years.
>>
Do I buy a cheap road bike or buy new wheels/tires for my $3000 hardtail mountain bike? The fork can stiffen up to inside rigidity and I don’t plan on leaving my bike locked for over 20 minutes (very white city btw)
>>
>>1575139
road bike, it's an entirely different bike, everything from the drop bars to the geometry to the aero etc adds up to make it feel at home on the road
>>
>>1575139
Any bike that costs the same as a set of tires is going to be a complete piece of shit.
>>
>>1575142
with the cost of a decent set of wheels he could get a used road bike
and if he can afford a $3k mtb maybe he can afford a $1-3k road bike
>>
>>1575141
I don’t feel at home on the road though, 10 years ago I commuted for a few years and I’ve been mountain biking for 13 years but I don’t literally don’t road bike at all. I owned a $100 used Stehyr (?) road bike for like 6 months and other than that I’ve never ridden a bike with less than 140mm front suspension. Would it even be worth it to get a good road bike for someone like me who probably can’t appreciate everything on it? When I could buy a new pair of wheels (which then I have a spare if my mtb-only wheels break) and big fat slicks and still get most of the efficiency from a cheaper road bike?
>>
>>1575142
Price isn’t in issue, bike stuff is the only thing I spend money on anyways, I just don’t want to spend more than I have to for what is essentially my first real road cycling
>>
>>1575148
>most of the efficiency
no
i know some anons ride mtb with slicks but it's really not the same thing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNNm0OTTjGU
on a real road bike you can achieve much higher speeds, you can pedal with more power and have a lower center of gravity, much better control in corners etc
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yO_5GqDlE7Q
>>
>>1575045
State focuses more on paint jobs than wheel quality. If you’re going that route consider the bikes direct models. Same price range, chromolly frames, better wheels. Also consider shitheap hybrids.

>>1575139
N+1
>>
>>1575139
Sounds like you want a beater, a used roadbike would be cheaper than a new set of wheels. Additionally, you can beat the shit out of it, and can lock it outside without fear of losing your expensive mtb.
>>
>>1574969
cut a slot in the head with a dremel or a hacksaw and then remove it with a large flat blade or a junk chisel

soak the thread first.
>>
>>1575164
kilo tt is $470 nowadays so the value is more debatable than when it was $400
>>
>>1575139
>>1575045
>alloy frame (preferably 7000 series alloy) road bike from the 2010s with 105 groupset
>get an old rigid in rideable condition and do the cables/outers, chain, and put some fat kojak sliccs on it.

The choice is yours anon
>>
How do I safely salvage an old hub from a wheel with a dud rim?
Should i undo all the nipples, or is it cool to just snip the spokes off near the hub?
>>
>>1575257
It doesn't hurt to at least loosen the spokes first, but just cutting them is usually fine.
>>
>>1575260
Thanks baby. X
>>
Assuming a chain is waxed every 250 miles or so; what would I need to clean a MTB? Just degreaser on the cassette & chain, and pressured water? There's a myriad of cleaning products but I want to do this the High IQ 4chan way, not the Low IQ plebian way.
>>
>>1575269
Rinse whole bike with garden hose water, get wax emulsion lube so you can just apply more when you need to instead of degreasing and rewaxing the chain.
Keep the stanchions and dropper post wiped off and rub silicone grease on the dropper shaft
>>
>>1575269
plain water and toothbrush.
>>
So I can't seem to go faster than about 45kmph/28mph on this downhill section along one of my most frequent routes, using both a hardtail MTB and a drop bar road bike.

Looking on strava it seems all the top 10 all time times in that segment have managed to get a top speed of about 60-65kmph/37-40mph.

So it mustn't have much to do with my bike or aero or whatever, it's just coming down to my raw power in my legs, right?

I've been riding on and off for a few years, slowly increasing my average speed on my routes, but what else can I do to increase my downhill top speed?
>>
>>1575276
Dude. You should easily be able to push 45 kmph on flats. People top out at 60-65 only because they run out of gears. Htfu, you'll do it
>>
>>1575277
That's just my limit dude, always has been.

Is there some certain type of training I can do? Do I need to hit the gym and strengthen my legs?
>>
>>1575294
if your hubs aren't smooth or you're riding slow rolling tyres it might be hard to cross that threshold. Most of it is aero though. On a road bike you shouldn't require much power at all to spin above 50km/h on a steep hill. It's mostly about how aero you can get at those speeds.

you don't need gym work to cycle either. go ride up some steep hills if you're weak.
>>
>>1575277
>You should easily be able to push 45 kmph on flats. People top out at 60-65 only because they run out of gears
bruh, no more larping please. pushing 45km/h for anything more than a few seconds is quite a feat for a casual rider. pro riders ride at around 60km only on the last few kms of a race, and that's with aero assist.
>>1575294
squats certainly help. pedaling technique is also important, work on your cadence. also since you're going downhill, aero becomes a huge factor, so work on your aero tuck too.
>>
>>1575299
but more importantly, stop concerning yourself with speeds so much. you're not racing anyone. enjoy your ride.
>>
>>1575299
>pushing 45km/h for anything more than a few seconds is quite a feat for a casual rider.
maybe if you're a vegan lmao
on an actual nice bike it's really easy, this guy went faster than that on a slight incline, downhill it should be no problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9NMi0Td1XA
>>
>>1575327
I think you missed the part where that dude's riding in a 30mph tailwind. Not to mention the extreme aerofaggotry.
>>
Anyone here have experience with the Marlin Trek 7, is it good?
>>
In hearing some crack noises around pic related since i bought my bike but im scared to open up that piece because i have no experience.
Any ideas what could the problem be?
It also feels like its just a little bit loose on the crankset
>>
>>1575347
i don't understand what you're saying
what feels loose ?

and post a picture of your actual crank.
>>
>>1575342
Not personally but Trek's a good brand if you don't mind the price, and the components on a Marlin 7 look solid. Plus there are Trek dealers every 3 blocks so you'll never have to go far for any service-type shit.
>>
>>1575347
If the pedal arms can move in any direction other than in a circle something's loose or possibly damaged and should be fixed before it causes more problems. If it's a new bike take it back where you bought it and make them sort it out. (Or if that somewhere is walmart, either return it or take it to a friendly looking bike shop; the stuck-up shops don't like to work on walmart bikes)
>>
>>1575342
Yeah. I mean, most bike shop brands are going to be pretty comparable in quality and have similar parts specs for similar price points. If there's a certain feature or brand of component that you're really particular about, then you can do more research and look for a brand of bike that fits the bill.
>>
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>>1575269
Tie rope to bike
Throw bike in lake
Pull bike from lake
Untie rope
>>
>>1575363
Problem is that i have been using it for around 3 months idk if the warranty covers that much time, sorry i didnt explain myself well i cant find the name of the pieces in english
>>
>>1575276
Whats the gradient? I feel like if its too steep, aero would matter more than pedaling. At least for novices like us.
There was one hill by me, between 10-15% and reaaaally long. I used just ride down on my road bike, no brakes, and hit like 35mph. Then I tried an aero tuck for the meme, and that bumped it up to 45mph. No pedaling until the end of the hill.
>>
>>1575327
You're delusional. This dude is a professional athlete, maximum aerofagging, and in a tailwind. Not that 45km/h is hard for a trained cyclist. But it is for a casual cyclist.
>>
>>1575376
>Not that 45km/h is hard for a trained cyclist.
at ftp on a regular road bike with no advantages? it's pretty fucking hard unless you're stupidly good
>>
>>1575351
>>1575363
Ok sorry ill try to explain now, sometimes it sounds like a crack from this place, when i pedal too hard , idk what the problem could be.
>>
>>1575391
it could actually be a lot of things. Bicycles are mysterious like that.

shift to the inner chainring then lift the chain off the cogs and place it inside.
spin the crank. Is the bearing rough?
is there play in the crank arms?
if you grip a crank arm against the chainstay and pull it tight, does it click?
>>
>>1575391
Could be that the bb has some dirt in the bearings. However, I've notices that more often than not a "cracking" noise comes from shitty pedals that have filthy loose bearings.

Either way, if you're nervous a bike shop should be able to open and clean it for like $25.
>>
>>1575391
>cannondale
>bb creaking
Very common. The problem is usually bearing migration. Here's one fix: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=101576
And another that uses retaining compound rather than anti-seize:
https://www.bbinfinite.com/blogs/news/how-to-fix-a-creaking-bb30-bottom-bracket
>>
>>1575404
His frame isn't a BB30.
>>
>>1575269
>pressured water?
no.
no pressure. you don't want water forced into hubs, BB, headset, cable housing etc washing the grease off the bearings and without a lot of air exchange to evaporate it and rusting everything.
just use low tap pressure for a flowing rinse
>>
>>1575391
Possibly:
>Crank arms loose
Likely:
>Shitty pedals
Unlikely, but possible
>BB bearings

Tighten your crank bolts and check for play in your pedals.
>>
>>1575405
Oh yeah, that doesn't even look like any kind of press fit. I just saw CAAD and my brain farted.
>>
>>1575391
>>1575412
>Tighten your crank bolts and check for play in your pedals
this and also tighten the bolt where seatpost goes into frame and bolt(s) that hold saddle to post. those and the chainring bolts and pedal noises sound like it comes from the bottom bracket.
if there is play in the crank/BB then it really is problems inside. you need a special tool to get in there so either buy tool, match new set of bearings to old ones, clean regrease and reinstall, or just pay a shop. if the bearing-holding parts are also fucked then you need new ones, too, but usually it's just the bearings.
>>
>>1575377
ftp is for a full hour, we're talking about seconds...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVO5ILQfx0Y
>>
>>1575416
>>1575413
>>1575412
>>1575404
>>1575399
>>1575395
Thanks guys gonna check tomorrow!
>>
Can I use sram quick links on a shimano chain?
>>
>>1575496
Yes, as long you're not mixing the real high bits like Dura Ace or Eagle that have special chain plate shaping they're interchangeable since the chains are the same widths.
>>
I got a new road bike and the insides of my palms really started to hurt while on the hoods after 2 hours of riding. I also seem to be sliding forward on the seat, however it looks level. What should I do?

Also the bike (Allez Elite) uses tektro calipers and they seem to really suck braking downhill, would replacing it with 105 brakes help?
>>
>>1575497
It's a simple alivio or deore (can't remember) 9 speed chain, I guess it'll be fine then.
>>
>>1575500
try shimano r55c4 pads, should cost less than $10 for two pairs
>>
>>1575500
What's your saddle look like? From your description is sounds like you should tilt it up slightly. Take a picture of your bike
>>
>>1575500
Yeah, I had a bike with TRP Spyres and they weren't great. When I upgraded to 105 I was a lot happier
>>
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>>1575510
Here's a pic, upon closer view it does look like it's tilting forward by a hair. I'll try tilting it up to see if it works tomorrow.
>>1575511
>>1575507
Thanks, maybe I'll do both, I've read that oem pads aren't the greatest.
>>
>>1575517
shimano r55c4 are the oem pads on the newest shimano 105 rim brakes i think but they're good, it's the older ones that aren't as good
>>
>>1575517
It does look level. Maybe try nose up just a tad. Without moving the saddle forward or back, inch the front up little by little, going on a test ride every time. Otherwise you will never know what is the best fit.
Other potential cause is you might be stretched out too much? But again these are things you gotta feel.
Or maybe you're just new to cycling? And your body is adjusting.
Good luck bud. Its a tedious process but it happens with every new bike.
>>
Should I buy a different bike that's my size? I'm 5'4" and I've been riding on a rigid 17" cockhopper. My friend tells me I should be more comfortable on a 15" bike, but I don't experience any pain on my rides, although the longest rides I do are 30 miles. Does bike fit matter if nothing hurts?
>>
>>1575524
If you enjoy riding your bike and don't feel the need to upgrade why upgrade? If covid was not a thing I would say try out a 15" demo bike but doubt that is available where you live now.
>>
>>1575404
>>1575413
>"Cannondale rolls out square taper BB with press fit bearing shells, combining the best of one technology with the worst of another"
Sounds about right for them really.

>>1575500
Bring your saddle back in increments until you fell less pressure on your hands. try about 10mm at a time and test ride for a while, repeat until you're more comfy.
>>
>>1575478
>velodrome
>aerofaggotry
In the real world 440w doesn't get you to 30mph.
>>
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>>1575542
>>
>>1575543
This is about as accurate as online IQ tests
>>
>>1575544
cope
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IA1feWnn9sw
>>
>>1575545
>peloton
Riding with 50 people in front of you to block the headwind is probably even less impressive than riding a tt bike on a track.
>>
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>>1575548
there are parts where he isn't drafting
those stravas >>1575276 is talking about with higher top speeds downhill aren't unbelievable
>>
>>1575544
those calculators are really accurate going up hills and at low speed though.
>>
>>1575549
>High grade crit rider
>Tailwind
>In a breakaway
It's not a hard speed to get to, but holding it for a long time is a different story. Best I've done is holding an average of 62 for just under 30 secs and I wouldn't consider myself much of a rider.
>>
>>1575375
Maybe 10% at most? It's not very long, maybe about 30 seconds worth.

>>1575298
>>1575299
I did the most aero tuck I could and my top speed on strava comes back as 45kmph again
>>
>>1575616
How much do you weigh and what bike are you riding?
>>
>>1575616
it could be a lot of things, your saddle height, your pedaling technique, your mind muscle connection, push hard before the downhill section and continue to pedal down it, weightlifting and nutrition and hydration would help train for it, clipless pedals and cycling kit could help too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bg4q-54u9Bg
>>
>>1575629
also check your cadence, your power output might benefit from a higher cadence even though it feels like there is less resistance
>>
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what da fuk i cannot walk in these shoes

i am also destroying my tiles

do i return it?
>>
>>1575639
>SPD cleats on SPD-SL shoes
omg lol
>>
>>1575624
95kg and a giant revolt 2

>>1575629
>>1575633
yeah I hate mtb pedals because I can't quite afford new pedals and shoes yet.

I think i'm just more equipped for endurance rather than burst speed/strength?

Do I need a bike computer for cadence?
>>
>>1575643
you need to unrace yourself.
>>
>>1575656
what does that even mean
>>
do you have experience with rainproofing your jacket? i walked outside for a 5 minute errand and i got fucking soaked. it's exceptionally rainy, my mom warned of a storm, she probably heard it from the local news. it's a thin ripstop nylon jacket that i got from a thrift sore. i never got soaked like this in the past. maybe the rainproofing diminished from washing it, or maybe i just didn't expose myself to the rain as much before. i don't think i will ride my bike in such heavy rain but as a general precaution i might be interested in rainproofing my jacket.
>>
or is there no point in using a water repellent product if you don't have a modern breathable memebrane jacket?
>>
haha wtf how can a 400-500ml bottle only last for 1 or 2 jacket applications, and some of them cost up to 17 euros wtf, there's one for 3 euros but they complain about the smell
>>
>>1575663
You'll see if it's actually waterproof there'll be like a clear strip of lining in all the seams and zippers and stuff inside the jacket

You probs just got a wind breaker jacket that's not rated for actually keeping the water out
>>
>>1575679
>You probs just got a wind breaker jacket that's not rated for actually keeping the water out
yeah, didn't expect it to get thoroughly soaked though
>>
Does anyone know if someone makes an adaptor that would let me use this oval chainring with an FSA comet crankset?
>>
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>>1575669
>reusing bottles
gross
>>
How big a deal is wearing lycra to improve your speed?

I normally ride in baggy shorts and shirt, would I expect to see much difference going with lycra?
>>
>>1575721
pushing hard on the flat it's like 1 free gear of speed
it's honestly surprising how much of a difference it makes
it's more significant than any aero thing you could do to your bike itself

aero doesn't really matter if you're not going fast though.
>>
>>1575663
I dunno if you got that wet, it sounds like the jacket wasn't waterproof to begin with. Definitely buy an actual waterproof coat. I'd recommend the marmot precip, but only if you can find it on sale. It's not worth $60
>>
For whatever reason, I can't get my front derailleur to slip properly between gears. I can get it up from 2nd to 3rd, but when I slip it down it won't move unless I slip it all the way down to 1st, and even then it just moves back to 2nd. I also have trouble slipping from 2nd to 1st, though going from 1st to 2nd isn't so bad.

Am I stupid and have my derailleur adjusted wrong because I can't understand the various guides online to doing so, or is it my bike that's the problem?
>>
>>1575721
Over flappy loose clothing, probably noticeable.

Over reasonably tight athletic clothing, marginal gains.

The primary reasons to go full-lycra if you're not literally racing are because you need the diaper to protect you from the 50 gram aliexpress carbon saddle that internet retards told you would be comfortable and because the neon pink jersey covered in giant brand logos makes you more visible to cars.
>>
>>1575752
be sure the cable isn't stuck/rusted in the housing or something is frozen/broken in the shifter before you drive yourself crazy trying to fix the derailleur. you can take the derailleur out of the equation by unclamping the cable to check for that stuff.
also make sure the axle is straight in the dropouts and tight.
then use the parktool.com pages for derailleurs to reattach the cable and do the adjustment. there are videos embedded in the pages, so you can watch, then use the text to guide you through while doing it as a reminder.
>>
>>1575752
use an allen wrench to make sure the cogs are lined up, try making a huge adjustment to the barrel adjuster from one extreme to the other, shift while not pedaling and watch the derailleur movement
>>
I need to stop making excuses and continue my cycling for fitness during the cold and dark parts of the year.

I'm not particularly sensitive to the cold weather since I live in Scandinavia but my problem is that whenever I start my rides I get really warm and sweaty and when I cool off I get incredibly cold.

Is a base layer underneath my regular cycling clothes enough to prevent that issue as long as it's not freezing cold? It rarely gets colder than like -5 to 10C / 23-14F where I live.
>>
>>1575721
the rider is the biggest source of drag, baggy clothes definitely slow you down

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNqYgnnudx0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hd0fXhDkH84
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mJ06mro5fw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_2SM30kI-4
>>
>>1575718
everybody does that, refill and chunk in freezer till next ride...
>>
>>1575835
get a real bottle that doesn't leak estrogen
>>
>>1575812
Merino wool base layer is great.
>>
>>1575812
Yeah, a good base layer can help because it's wicking the moisture away from your skin. Nothing is worse than being cold AND wet
>>
>>1575714
I'm curious about this too, anon. At my shop, we don't deal with FSA a ton, but a recent customer's project bike had an FSA crank and we were trying to figure out a weird compatibility issue.

Anyway, yeah, a lot of manufacturers that are using a direct mount interface for their cranks/rings also offer a direct mount spider that you can install and then bolt on a "normal" chainring like your Absolute Black. I don't see any parts like that offered by FSA, which sucks, but I may be missing something.
>>
>>1575812
layers bro, layers. it's normal to start out cold and get hotter as you ride, the trick is using thin layers that you can easily peel off and store. For me it's bib shorts, leg warmers, top base layer, jersey, and a wind breaker. And if it's gonna be way too cold, a light jacket instead of the wind breaker. Also choosing proper gloves is important.
>>
>>1575721
Lycra is more for managing heat and sweat anon, with the chamois reducing chafing and sores from constant hours in the saddle.

The performance benefit comes from the fit of clothes (lycra or not) and not having lots of wrinkles or excess fabric that essentially act as mini parachutes that slow you down.
>>
shimano 105, 52/36 crank, chain sometimes fails to shift from the small ring to the big ring. 700km in, what do
>>
>>1576018
>700km in
Like from being brand new?
If it was shifting well to begin with, but is now having issues, you probably just need more cable tension for the front derailleur.
>>
>>1576018
If you have hex keys and want to diy, there's a little hex bolt on the derailleur that you can tighten to add cable tension. It's easier to turn when the lever is shifted down into the small ring. Otherwise take it to where you bought it and they'll hopefully touch up the adjustment for free.
>>
>pic related wireless cable-actuated shifting gets bought by sram
It’s such a fucking simple design why didn’t I think of it I’d be rich
>>
>>1576047
meh, what's the point? Go all or nothing.
>>
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Are chamber pumps worth it? I did a tubeless setup just using a Chinese battery car inflator

I dunno whether to get a chamber pump, or just an ordinary pump with a decent, visible gauge
>>
OK ge/n/iuses, riddle me this one
>"tock" noise coming from drivetrain, starts randomly, usually when I'm pushing a bit (not even sprinting or standing on the pedals)
>almost same rhythm as pedal stroke but not quite, it's actually a little faster
>sound persists while pedaling, both sat down and standing, goes away when freewheeling, then comes back when I pedal again
>as randomly as it appears it goes away after a couple of minutes, specially if I freewheel or pedal backwards for a long while
>sounds on all gears, but becomes worse the heavier the gear I'm in (in fact in some gears it goes from a "tock" to an even worse "to-tock"
>can't reproduce it off the bike, pedaling by hand
>seems to come from the BB, I even feel it on my feet, but I know this can be misleading and it could come from anywhere
Thoughts? Any similar experiences?
>>
>>1576018
turn the front shifter barrel adjuster half a turn counterclockwise
>>
Other than just throwing it in the shower - anyone have any helpful tips on cleaning a bike in an apartment? I'm to the dirty/damp fall roads and my bike is starting to look a different color from the neglect I've been giving it since moving into an apartment without hose access.
>>
>>1576141
you're not even supposed to use a hose
use a bucket of soapy water and a rag
that is less likely to drive water into bearings and flush out grease

just fucking take a bucket of soapy water outside
>>
>>1576053
It's cool because you can turn your regular mech into a wireless mech with that little adapter. Ideally it'd be hackable so you could use, say, a Shimano mech with SRAM shifters. Or maybe a similar box for up front to translate cable pull at the shifter into a wireless signal.

>>1576058
Less necessary nowadays that tires and rim profiles are made to work better with tubeless. They are pretty cool though.

>>1576141
The only time I tried washing my bike in the shower it didn't get very clean and there was bullshit all over the bottom of the tub that wouldn't come off until I got some of that gritty orange cleaner stuff.
>>
>>1576141
Take a bucket outside. You shouldn't need more than two buckets of water, one soapy to clean and one with just water to rinse.
>>
>>1576141
How I do it (once a year)
>remove chain and cables and handlebar tape to be replaced
>clean handlebars and check for corrosion, including moving shifters to get the area under the clamp
>remove crankset and disassemble, degrease and scrub everything
>remove cassette and degrease/scrub unless replacing that too
>take top cap and stem off and slide the steerer out a bit to get all the gunk between the bottom of the headtube and fork
>wipe derailleurs and brakes with wet rag then use wet paintbrush to get into all the impossible-to-reach places
>disassemble and clean jockey wheels if you want
>wipe frame and wheels with a rag now that all the hard-to-reach spots are exposed
>put everything back together and replace chain/cables/tape, then wait 4 months until spring to find out what you put together wrong
>>
>>1576190
>Ideally it'd be hackable so you could use, say, a Shimano mech with SRAM shifters.
I thought you had to use the little wireless "shifter".
>>
>>1576053
The point is your fragile derailleur at the most dangerous point on a bicycle suddenly doesn’t need to be $800
>>
>>1576079
What is this, car talk?
>>
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They said to make sure the spokes are tight when wheel building...
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>>1576309
>>
>>1576309
I mean there's a reason wheel building is a more advanced practice but at the same time that rim looks shit, the machining and engraving, the paint, at least you didn't fuck up a good rim
>>
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>>1574643
Bought pic rel (TRIBAN GRAVEL 120) from Decathlon for 600 euros.
How much did I fuck up?

aluminium frame, "carbon" fork, 1X drivetrain with 10-speed microshit, cheap disc breaks
>>
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>>1576079
loose crank arm or pedal. my money is on crank arm
>>
>>1576355
I'm not 100% sure from the pic but is that an integrated derailleur hanger? If so you kind of fucked up anon.
>>
>>1575849
>Follow anon's advice and get glass bottle
>In a team training ride
>Leading the train for sprint training
>Go to grab my Nalgene™ glass bottle to keep fuelled up
>Fumble bottle
>It smashes, the glass shards taking out the tyres and causing a pileup and untold injuries to the rest of the team
>Season cancelled
>Team goes bankrupt forever
T-thanks anon, at least I don't have gyno now I guess.

>>1576018
1.Cable tension too low
2. Limit screws improperly set
3. Derailleur not mounted straight / close enough to chainring
try these fixes first.

>>1576309
>Using garbage rims
you're lucky you didn't die

>>1576355
The wheels and crankset look to be pretty low spec, but otherwise it's a rideable looking bike.
An immediate huge upgrade would be some pasela PTs and vittoria latex tubes, it won't cost that much either for what you're getting.
>>
>>1576309
Jesus, what rim is that?
>>
>>1576079
Does the bike have a cassette or a freewheel? My first thought would be BB, then freewheel if the bike has one.
>>
>>1576365
it might be a steel dorpout in which case it's fine
>>
>>1576382
>TRIBAN GRAVEL 120
Why would an aluminum frame have steel dropouts? Bike manufacturers literally never do that.
>>
>>1576079
>almost same rhythm as pedal stroke but not quite, it's actually a little faster
So if you make a big gear change but keep the same speed so you're pedaling a lot faster/slower the rhythm changes along with the pedaling cadence ?
>>
>>1576355
It looks fun, anon. If you hate it you can always get rid of it, and if you love the kind of riding you're doing with it, you can upgrade some parts or save for a new gravel bike in the future.
>>
>>1576384
>Bike manufacturers literally never do that.
They did when they had glued aluminum frames.
>>
>>1576079
chainring bolts, fd clamp, seatpost clamp and bar/stem bolts could all be causing that
>>
>>1576079
RD or something with the rear cog is not quite aligned properly so the chain doesn't always land smoothly on the teeth. It's close to, but not a factor of the number of teeth on the chainring, so a gear like 53/17 which is why it seems related to crank rotation but not quite. It only happens sometimes because it's in a gear that you use when you're pushing "a bit."
>>
>>1576366
>pasela PTs and vittoria latex tubes
thanks for recs, ill look into that
>>
>>1576365
lol and some anons shilled decathlon bikes in an earlier thread just to rile me up, and the bike that anon recommended cost like $1k in the US anyway so i wasn't even wrong about my price estimate of around $1000-1500 or more for a proper brand new road bike
>>
>>1576415
someone even shilled a $100 walmart singlespeed bike, for an OP who wanted as bike for /fit/ purposes, absolutely ridiculous, even that clueless OP probably had in mind to spend at least a few hundred
>>
>>1576384
Apart from alloy track bikes, yeah it's uncommon.

>>1576393
>Lugged and glued alloy frames
As cool as they were (read: alan, vitus), they would usually fail at the intersection of downtube and BB.
Thankfully they would usually just start squeaking like crazy while pedalling and not catastrophically fail. The forks were rumored to fail completely but I've never heard of a legit instance of it happening.
Pic related was pretty cool though.

>>1576404
You're welcome anon. Be sure to talc up the inside of your tyres and shake the tubes in a ziploc of talc before installing them for even more cloudlike ride smoothness and efficiency.
>>
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>>1576366
>Fumble bottle
git gud
>>
>first world problems
i have an amazon coupon on my business account with 200 euros minimum spend
the pricey items that i would have wanted are unavailable or overpriced
i have like 99% of my bike shit already but i want some things like an unbranded conical headset spacer (FUCK logo spam, especially on the top cap which is difficult to line to line up perfectly straight)
not sure if i should buy a 20-30 euro wera screwdriver set, seems like a bit of a meme when i hardly ever need to use a screwdriver, but i tried buying a cheap screwdriver set which was a complete joke with pozidriv instead of phillips
>>
>>1576469
Wera makes nice tools for sure.
>>
>>1576436
People make up all sorts of myths about the forks. The forks are actually really flexy but you have idiots who claim they were harsh because aluminum=harsh, then they claim they actually know from experience when you call them out on their bullshit.
>>
>>1576483
Depends on the fork. I once had a 'touring' aluminium fork that came with a matching frame. That thing was massively overbuilt and stiff AF.
>>
>>1576483
I have an old alu fork on one of my bikes, it's actually pretty comfy if not a little flexier than I like.
>>
>>1576484
Shut up idiot I was talking about the lugged aluminum frames anon was talking about, and any disc steel fork is going to be just as overbuilt.
>>
>>1576484
>have fat tires
>care about fork/frame flex
bruh
>>
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>>1576484
Dude, bro, mate. Chill.
'Myths' about aluminium fork of today arose, well, today. What aluminium forks were 30 years ago is a different issue.

>>1576492
Pic related - modern aluminium road fork. Stiff AF.
>>
>>1576493
Sigh. Meant to reply to: >>1576488
>>
>>1576493
>'Myths' about aluminium fork of today arose, well, today. What aluminium forks were 30 years ago is a different issue.
doesn't prevent people from having shit wrong assumptions about ALAN frames

>Pic related - modern aluminium road fork. Stiff AF.
Funny how people say carbon is so great because it's stiff and compliant because none of this shit really matters. The stiffness of forks only kicks in when you hit major potholes, everything that can be considered road buzz is mostly the tires
>>
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ride quality of frames and forks is impossible to quantify so either you accept that meme opinions are a collation of actual experience and are real or that they are simply memes and everything is meaningless because there's really little else to go off
>>
>>1576495
>>1576507
carbon seems to dampen vibrations
you wouldn't choose to ride a hiten steel frame, because it just sucks to ride, and not just because of the weight
>>
>>1576365
>integrated derailleur hanger
per model per year per brand derailleur hangers ?
sure just let my check my stash
>>
>>1576509
I would ride a hiten frame with good tires over an anything else with shitty tires.
>>
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>>1576515
>>
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>>1575849
they dont flex enough for most bottle holders
something with a ratchet strap would be nice
>>1576438
>tfw no hydrapak
>>
>>1576518
I do ride both, I'm just saying autism about frame material pales in comparison to tire quality. Tires are a big deal. Frame material isn't.
>>
>>1576524
$80-100 gets you top of the line tires, they're not a big thing to worry about if you aren't an extreme cheapskate
>>
>>1576526
That's not my point. My point is frame material doesn't really matter that much. I had frames of all materials, and yes, they feel a little different, but nothing is a gamechanger, dealbreaker, or really all that important compared to tires. In in the frame of it doesn't really matter much.
>>
>>1576529
all reputable brands use carbon forks on their aluminium bikes, high end steel bikes use carbon forks as well, and most road cyclists would choose a full carbon bike if price wasn't the issue, it's not just a marketing meme
>>
>>1574643
>Bike Questions General
aren't you worried about your balls?
breathing car exhaust all day?
getting run over by inattentive drivers?
reinforcing a car-centered system of transportation by using roadways?

bikes honestly strike me as just total trash.
change my mind.
>>
>>1576530
>high end steel bikes use carbon forks as well
No, steel memebikes do.
>most road cyclists would choose a full carbon bike if price wasn't the issue
Of course, it's light and more aero. Ride quality is negligible though.
>it's not just a marketing meme
I didn't say it was a marketing meme, I said it doesn't matter much. Dura-Ace is better than 105, but the actual difference in use is negligible.
>>
>>1576535
>aren't you worried about your balls?
a looser like me ?

>breathing car exhaust all day?
everyone does that, cabin air filters are nice tho

>getting run over by inattentive drivers?
mostly this, but surely the car driver had somewhere important to be ?

>reinforcing a car-centered system of transportation by using roadways?
the roads are for the trucks, cars are the guests
and its not worth building anything that's not next to an air or sea port

>bikes honestly strike me as just total trash.
they are if you want to be anywhere on time in good condition or carrying anything with you
na I ant bout to change your mind
everything has its best use case but a lot of things are misused
>>
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>>1576469
You can always use more tools.
>>
>>1576538
surprisingly fair and balanced answer.
i was expecting screeching.

however
>the roads are for the trucks
i disagree...
most heavy freight is hauled on trains
trucks are mostly just for last mile delivery.
...and in terms of total traffic, the miles driven by cars dwarfs the miles driven by trucks on any roadway except maybe interstates in flyover territory
>>
>>1576563
over the years I gotten used to being incorrect, so I try to keep authoritative statements to a minimum
>heavy freight
milk trains are priddy dank, each one has the same capacity as 32 milk trucks
I have not seen them come by in a while tho, I think they are now going somewhere else for the milk to be powdered

>trucks are mostly just for last mile delivery.
kek there used to be a law that limited trucks to delivery within a 30 mile radius
https://teara.govt.nz/en/freight-and-warehousing/page-5

its the truck depots I dont quite understand the purpose of, it struck me as the sort of thing that trucks were meant to bypass
some of the old rail trunk network is left but most of the branch lines are dead
most of the products that would have been handled by rail are either out of demand or moved by trucks instead
there are a shit load of empty wool stores around and the lines for them pass right by supermarkets that are supplied by trucks, and also past meat works and boat builders
trucks are want to cause a mini traffic jam every time they pull into a super market and they do so maybe two or three times a day

one thing here are "roads of national significance" they are rated to handle 55 ton trucks, where as most of the roads are for 44 ton trucks
and are between major city's with deep ports and the satellite city's that provide some of the work force
>>
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>>1576535
>aren't you worried about your balls?
You're sitting on it wrong.
>breathing car exhaust all day?
I only ride out in the country
>getting run over by inattentive drivers?
...with rumble strips on the edge of the shoulder
>reinforcing a car-centered system of transportation by using roadways?
Cars are transportation. Bikes are a toy.
>bikes honestly strike me as just total trash.
Only if you're a povertyfag who uses them to commute.

>>1576538
>the roads are for the trucks,
LOL, fuck off seminigger. Even when you *do* stay in your containment lane you're slowing traffic flow leading to additional delays, jams, and accidents. No one gives a fuck that the trailer full of frisbees you're hauling to the Shartmart in Tuscon needs to be there by midnight.
>>
>>1576597
I'm more interested in trains
but the government favors trucks, and can sell idea of improved roads to car owners, if anything rails are in opposition to cars
any road that once had significant changes in grade and heading has been smoothed out to suit trucks, or has been closed due to damage from trucks and slips
>bikes are a toy
agreed, there is a good reason they are only on the road en mass two months a year in summer
not even china retains the wide spread use of bikes, every third world country is now moving to ape first world commodities
>>
>>1576469
You should buy some rope
>>
Hi. Does TPI make a big difference? I'm looking at two different semi-slick tires to convert my 26" XC hardtail to more of a road/gravel bike.

Michelin Country Rock:
>30 TPI
>weight 560g
>26" x 1.75"

Continental Double Fighter III
>180 TPI
>weight 800g
>26" x 1.9"

The tires on the bike right now are generic (innova ia-2549) 26" x 2". I've seen most innova tires come around 60TPI, but I don't know the exact TPI or weight. Will the 30 TPI tires feel worse? Will the 180 TPI tires feel better? I want the bike to go faster and ride smoother on paved surfaces, gravel, and hardpack trails. I've heard higher TPI is also more comfortable. Is this true?
Honestly after writing all this down is it even worth upgrading in the first place? Will 0.1" - 0.25" less width make much of a difference when it comes to rolling resistance? I've already worn down much of the center nobs on the stock tires so they're basically semi-slick anyways. Just a matter of width and TPI now. Inner rim width is 20mm if that matters. Thanks in advance for any advice.
>>
>>1576676
I don't really know too much about how much of a difference tpi makes as an individual factor. But I can tell you that upgrading to those double fighters would be fucking huge. They're solid tires.
Its not the size difference as much as the compliance of the tires and the grip of the rubber.
It'll feel like a new bike compare to the innova's, which are literally bottom tier. And what, it'll cost $40-50? I recommend upgrading highly. Hold on to the innova's as backups incase something terrible happens.

Side note, tire pressure is a huge deal. There is a sweet spot where the pressure is low enough to roll over bumps and shit easily without feeling squirrelly. Hint, its probably lower than you think it is.
>>
>>1576535
>aren't you worried about your balls?
I know how to size and adjust my saddle
>breathing car exhaust all day?
as anon said, that's everyone.
>getting run over by inattentive drivers?
fear is the mind-killer
>reinforcing a car-centered system of transportation by using roadways?
roads predate cars. in fact, the first widescale demand for paved roads was from the cycling boom of the 1900s. bikes literally paved the way for cars. nobody believes it anymore, but it's the truth. also, the automobile lobbyists invented jaywalking laws. traditionally, foot traffic shared the road with horses and horse-drawn vehicles. later, bikes shared the road but bike wheels of the time were poor on dirt roads, and brick or cobblestone paving would violently rattle a bike. so cyclists lobbied for modern paving materials and everyone shared until automobiles kicked everyone else off.
>>
>>1576676
iirc the higher tpi tires generate less heat as they flex, so in this way they provide lower rolling resistance
but for this to work your puncture resistance will be lower, and you risk pinch flats at pressures below 30 psi
>1.9
sufficient but not excellent
it carry's much of the weight and slop of a larger tire but not many of its benefits
you'll only really notice the utility of such large tires when you are dealing with 1" rocks or fine sand or riding in the wet and mud
>1.75
good all rounder, thick enough to provide some comfort but also provides a good amount of grip

consider that many of the meme 700c gravel and hybrid bike tires are 38 mm this is very close to 1.5 inch tires
1.5 tires are good for speed but its a simple matter of ground pressure that they will be slightly uncomfortable (and also more vulnerable to punctures)
if your biking above 30 kph rolling resistance starts to be less significant than aerodynamic drag caused by the tire, this is part of the reason 23 and 19 mm tires were popular
etrto 32-597 is a nice size but its unlikely you'll find one

if your bike is near 13 kg you can use thinner tires
if your bike is closer to 17 kg thick tires do help
this also apply's to rider / luggage weight
each rubber compound has an ideal amount of weight for it to achieve maximum grip
and since air is a spring different volumes of it will dampen different vibrations
>>
please help me with my new cassette /n/
I own a franken road bike made up of shimano 9 speed stuff and wanted to change my cassette to a steeper one. Already bought one and changed it, but it turns out my rear derailleur touches the cassette in the biggest gear, so i swapped it back for now.
Could it generally be possible to change just the derailleur to a larger one without having too many issues? If yes I'd search for and post the modell names tomorrow
>>
>>1576712
>Could it generally be possible to change just the derailleur to a larger one without having too many issues?
Yes, in fact that's exactly what you should do.
That being said, did you try tightening the B screw on your current derailleur? It helps clearing cassettes bigger than what the derailleur was designed for, at the cost of reduced shifting performance
>>
>>1576676
Conti multiplies their TPI by 3 because they're top dog and they can get away with bullshittery. 180TPI by conti is 60TPI by anyone else because the count the threads in all 3 layers of casing. Literally no one else does this.
>>
>>1576721
>Literally no one else does this.
of course they do
>>
>>1576712
>steeper
>Biggest
uhh what.. you described this strangely, I cant really tell what problem you have
but if you look up the model number of your rear derailleur you may be able to find its total capacity along with the minimum and maximum cog sizes its made to shift between
front derailleurs also have similar specification and are often meant to be paired with a given capacity of rear derailleur

Determine Maximum Chaining Difference by subtracting the number of teeth in the smallest chainring from the number of teeth in the largest chainring
Determine Maximum Cassette Cog Difference by subtracting the number of teeth on the smallest cassette cog from the number of teeth on the largest cassette cog
Determine Total Drive train Capacity by adding Maximum Chaining Difference to the Maximum Cassette Cog Difference
Record the Maximum Cassette Cog (the number of teeth on the largest Cassette Cog)


if smaller diameter cogs have been placed on the chain ring or the cassette your chain may now be slightly too long, not really a big deal
https://youtu.be/O0YibMDWBAw?t=241

if you now have a larger diameter rear sprocket you may need a derailleur hanger extender
or to replace the derailleur with one that has a longer distance between the jockey wheel and tension wheel

For typical Shimano
SS - Short Cage Road Double - Maximum Cassette Cog is 27 and Total Capacity is 29
GS - Medium Cage MTB/Road Triple - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34(MTB)/27(Road) and Total Capacity is 33(MTB)/37(Road)
SGS - Long MTB - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34 and Total Capacity is 45
>>
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Does this look out of true or am I going crazy? I got a new bike about a week ago and changed the brake calipers cause the old ones sucked. When I was adjusting them, I might have put too much pressure on the rims to damage them, or is that just me stressing out? Does it look okay?
>>
>>1576753
that's definitely out of true. not damaged though, just needs truing.
>>
>>1576753
Unrideable. I had a friend die in a similar situation, just not worth the risk.
>>
>>1576753
Compared to my bike that wheel turns like a well oiled swiss army clock. I wouldn't worry about it
>>
>>1576719
Not sure if thats the name of the screw but the guy who was helping me tightened/loosened a screw but to no avail

>>1576729
>steeper
14-25 cassette is currently installed and i wanted to change it to one with a bigger range (CS-HG50-9 with 11-30T)

>uhh what.. you described this strangely, I cant really tell what problem you have
The plastic crank of the derailleur hugged the cassette and i couldnt really shift into the highest and lowest gear, not sure if that makes it clear, sorry

So i tried figuring out the components on my drivetrain:
RD-4400 rear derailleur
FC-440S Crank
SG A52, SG A42(?), SG A30 chainrings
some 105 front derailleur, but i didnt find the modell number yet
ST-4400 breaks/shifters if that matters

>smallest chainring-largest chainring
A52-A30 = 22
>smallest cassette cog - largest cassette cog
11-30T=19
>Maximum Chaining Difference + Maximum Cassette Cog Difference
19+22=41
>Record the Maximum Cassette Cog (the number of teeth on the largest Cassette Cog)
30

>GS - Medium Cage MTB/Road Triple - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34(MTB)/27(Road) and Total Capacity is 33(MTB)/37(Road)
Should be this since i have 3 cranks, found a datasheet for the RD-4400 where it says this for the GS:
>Total capacity 37 teeth or less
>Largest sprocket 27T
>Smallest sprocket 11T
>Front chainwheel tooth difference 22T
So in other words i fucked up i guess

>or to replace the derailleur with one that has a longer distance between the jockey wheel and tension wheel
Found the RD-R3000-GS which seems to be the only still sold 9 speed RD
>Low sprocket 28-34T
>Max. front difference 20T
>Top sprocket 11-14T
>Total capacity 43T
So this i cant use since i have a front difference of 22T, right? So extender or buy a used RD are my two options? Sorry im a little lost
>>
>>1575045
lower end trek or specialized hybrid for $400 is a great deal. get one with v brakes not disc
>>
>>1576762
get your wheels trued, anon
>>
>>1576538
>>1576600
>sidewalks are wheelchair-friendly
>therefore sidewalks are for cripples and pedestrians are the guests
>>
>>1576683
>>breathing car exhaust all day?
>as anon said, that's everyone.
No, that's basically just bikeniggers and retards who are too dumb to close the windows and turn on recirculate in a traffic jam.
>>
>>1576753
>When I was adjusting them, I might have put too much pressure on the rims to damage them
Nothing you could do to the wheel in the process of adjusting the brakes is going to be 1% as stressful to it as your fat ass riding on it is.
>>
>>1576766
Max front difference is meaningless for the rear derailleur, it's just a crutch to stop retards trying things they don't understand. Look at the total capacity and the easiest sprocket size, that's what limits the rear derailleur.

If you buy a modern 8/9 speed mountain derailleur, you'll be fine. They have more capacity than sora 3000 so you can get a bigger cassette later on if you want.
>>
>>1576753
a custom wheelbuilder would probably not give this to a customer but it looks pretty normal for stock wheels
i'm not sure but it might just be a fraction of a millimeter of lateral runout (in each direction), it just looks bad when it's zoomed in
>>
Guy with the weird ticking sound here, sorry for the late response
>>1576364
>>1576397
not any of these, since as I mentioned the sound is actually a bit faster than the actual pedaling rhythm
>>1576373
it has a freewheel, which is also one of my prime suspects, along with the BB (which I was about to replace but my current one is fucking stuck, gonna have to get a vice to get it off)
>>1576387
it speeds up and slows down along with pedaling cadence, yes, but it's always a bit faster, as in at first it's almost the same as pedaling, but just a tad faster so that eventually it goes out of sync
>>1576398
also something I considered, since it's an old steel frame, with a hanger that has been straightened quite a few times. chainline seems pretty nice though, and while the sound is going on I can't see anything weird happening. Still, I'll probably get a new freewheel and chain since they're dirt cheap, probably new pulley wheels too.
Also, I noticed my rear wheel hub wasn't rotating as smoothly as you'd expect from sealed bearings, it seems the axle was way too tight, so I'm starting to think that is the culprit. Loosened the "cones" a bit with a cone wrench, let's see how it goes.
Thanks everyone.
>>
>>1576861
So the Sora would be fine actually? 11-30T is the biggest cassette they offer so i don't think I'll need more capacity in the future. Would there be any other reasons for going with one of the 5 or so 9 speed mtb derailleurs?
Thanks anons
>>
>>1576949
Spray some wd-40 into the freewheel from behind...
Look up an RJ the bike guy video on it. Something along the lines of "regressing a free wheel"
>>
>>1576972
>spray a non-lubricating solvent into a moving, lubricated part
kys
>>
I converted a freewheel from 6 speed to single speed. It took a few goes getting the tightness right but I’m pretty sure I couldn’t feel any resistance while it rotates.

Yet when I ride the bike I feel a refurb going up to the seat post on every rotation (It’s not related with peddling). I can’t feel anything whilst it’s in a stand it’s only while I’m riding it.

I noticed that the tyre had a bulge but I got rid of that and didn’t understand how that could create a refurb if it wasn’t hitting anything.

Could it just be the frame as it’s an old steel one that has been cold pressed recently?
>>
>>1577000
Reverb***
>>
>>1576998
If you watch the video, you re-apply a thick oil the same way you spray the wd-40.
Sure I could of mentioned that, but you could have looked up the video.
>>
>>1577006
>i'm wrong but you could have-
no.
>>
>>1576972
Will look into it, thanks. I'm not the other asshole replying to you btw.
>>
>>1577009
you're definitely some kind of asshole.
>>
>>1577010
go for a ride, breathe some fresh air
>>
>>1576969
HG-400 has a 9 speed 11-36, which works with a Tourney 'mountain' derailleur on one of my bikes. HG201 is the same cassette but cheaper.

Not sure why you're dead set on the 11-30t cassette.
>>
>>1577017
because I'm dumb and already bought one thinking it would work with my current setup
>>
>>1577000
Gears aren't perfectly round, once you take the derailleur off you can feel the tension coming and going if the chain is tight enough.
>>
>clean cassette
>clean chainrings
>spend 10 minutes spraying chain with degreaser and wiping it off
>spin the cranks once
>the chain is instantly covered in shit
How is this possible?
>>
>>1577024
Probably is the case. After comparing it to my other 7 speed bike the hub definitely doesn’t feel or look pristine.

I was just happy to get it It working as before I could hear and feel a large clunk when I put some force through the drive chain even in a stand. That was when the hub was too loose. It might just be that it even needs to be tighter as if I push one the break pads against the rim it still slightly moves the other way.
>>
>>1576949
loose crank arms don't always tick at the same frequency as pedal strokes. tighten the fucking bolts
>>
Do 26x2.3 full mudguards exist?
All i can find is shit "mtb" ones that look trashy
>>
>>1577034
your chain will always retain some dirt inside, unless you take it off and submerge it in mineral spirits then shake the shit out of it, just gotta come to terms with it
>>1577070
look for beach cruiser fenders
>>
>>1577009
Stay happy friend :)
>>
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Looking to buy my first bike that isn't total garbage, torn between the FX-1 and the FX-2 from Trek, also don't know if I want disc brakes or not, I know the FX-2 has hydraulic brakes so if I wanted disc brakes I'd probably just get the FX-2.

I've read that the maintenance on disc brakes can be annoying, but I will only be using the bike for like 30 mins of daily exercise, how soon will they need adjustments or replacements? Should I just get the FX-1 with regular brakes so I can adjust/replace them myself?

Also is there anything I need to know about using bike during winter (live where it snows) to avoid rust or damage?
>>
>>1577109
There's not a huge difference in rim vs. disc brakes when it comes to maintenance, the difference is that your average cyclist probably already has many years of experience with rim brakes so discs get a reputation for being more difficult. The tools needed to service hydraulic brakes are slightly more expensive at the outset.

For winter rust prevention, just make sure to store your bike where it will dry between rides. If you live someplace where the roads get salted it's a good idea to wash your bike when the opportunity presents itself as salt will accelerate rust potential.
>>
>>1577023
It does work doesn't it?

I swapped a long cage onto a Tiagra 4400 SS and it shifts a 7 speed 12-32 with 28/38/48 up front.
>>
>>1577156
Sadly it didnt and i switched back to the old cassette for now, but not sure for how many kms it will last

>>1576766
>The plastic crank of the derailleur hugged the cassette and i couldnt really shift into the highest and lowest gear, not sure if that makes it clear, sorry

Thats why i asked if replacing the rear derailleur makes sense, worst case i'll buy the same sized cassette as im currently using and sell the 11-30
>>
>>1577158
Last thing to check, you screwed the b screw all the way in right?
>>
>>1577161
Pretty sure we did, the guy who helped me swap the cassette tried to adjust some screw but it didnt help, although he never did that before either so it might have been the wrong screw. Looked around a little on the internet and found some people saying that the rd-4400 should work up to 30 too so i might want to borrow the tools again and try it one more time
>>
>>1576355
You got nearly the cheapest specs in it's class. It's a new, meme build with no track record. Should be good enough to start with, as long as you don't run out of gears. Probably a solid commuter.

Nothing on that is worth upgrading. If things fail, cobble together cheap replacements and use it as a beater.

>>1577109
For base shitheap hybrid, you might as well go with the fx1, in your specific case, disc brakes keep your braking surfaces out of snow, water, and slush, so the fx2 is probably the better choice. Consider making or buying cheap plastic fenders.

Simply gently rinsing off salt water, and wiping off excess water in general near the sensitive areas of the drivetrain, hubs, bottom bracket will make a huge difference. You can use WD 40 to displace water, but be careful to not wash the grease out of your hubs and bottom bracket. Proper lubrication for your conditions also makes a big difference.

Pay attention to tire choice. If you have serious snow, spike tires, and possibly a second winter wheelset might be a good idea. As a blanket rule, you probably want to go wide.

>>1577158
RD's are cheap, and frequently available off of crashed bikes. As anon notes, calculate your capacity.

>>1577070
The mamacharis, beach cruisers and dutch bikes in 26 have them . Not that common, but still out there.

>>1576753
I would check tension, and true if needed, because it will only get worse under your fat ass. I don't think it's emergency stop riding this second, but I certainly wouldn't be going on a tour with that wheel.
>>
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>>1577109
>I've read that the maintenance on disc brakes can be annoying

Nah, just need like a hundred bucks' worth of hoses and syringes and funnels.
>>
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how come my rear tyre punctures and I taco my rim when I ride full speed and pop a wheelie up a gutter?
>>
>>1577195
Have you tried not being fat?
>>
>>1577195
A pneumatic tire is just an armored balloon, if you compress it sufficiently at a point you'll force all the air out of the way and into the remainder of the tube. When that happens because you have an impact with a blunt edge, or have insufficient pressure in the tube to support the weight being held up, or both, then there's essentially nothing left between your rim and the ground surface but a layer of rubber, so a hard enough impact can damage a rim.

But as anon said, you can minimize the risk of damaging your rim by doing a couple different things:
1. make sure your tires are properly inflated before every ride
2. don't smash your wheel into gutters, learn to bunny hop
3. if you can't bunny hop, you can at least shift your weight to the front of the bike
4. use tires that are wider to increase the amount of compressible volume
>>
Is there a recommended amount of cleat float for someone new to clipless? I'm trying to get away without a professional bike fit, but I've heard too many horror stories of irreversible knee damage from poorly fitted cleats. Pic related, thinking of getting a pair from aliexpress for starters.
>>
>>1577244
don't buy shoes online
fit is more important than specs
go to a shop were you can try them on
>>
>>1577245
Most of the reviews say it's true to size, I tried a pair of van-rysels at decathlon and I like to run a size bigger. Black Friday is coming and I might nab a pair of Fizik R5's if it goes under 100 GBP
>>
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>>1577244
Start with pic related anon.

No seriously, go with blue unless you have knee problems. Yellow is pure garbage.
>>
>>1577244
>aliexpress
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IePUTxyV2XM
>>
>>1577237
Thanks for the advice. I tried running 120psi and 20psi to see if that made a difference. Both damaged my rim
>>
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>>1577229
i'm not fat though
>>
>>1577259
The stamped metal nut is completely normal even in name brand shoes though
>>
>>1576766
>i fucked up i guess
yea kind of, people often have a small stash of parts left over from various things that did not work out, maybe someone near by or someone you know has a part you can try out
and those specifications are just what shimano recommends as an ideal range of operations
components can be forced to operate outside of that range to some extent, and you are not going for anything too extreme

the cheep hack is the derailleur hanger extender... but its a risky gamble
there are expensive ones https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink
and the cheaper versions https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000176844429.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32868361390.html (lol at that product name)
so there are some wide differences in the cost and quality of the hanger extensions and the idea in its self is a little on the edge
mostly it helps with the larger cogs, but it may make down shifting slightly worse

as other anon have say it maybe best to wait for a good opportunity to snag a slightly more modern high capacity RD that is purported to work with your old shifters
>>1577161
I have looked it up and some say that an extra long non standard B screw may have some effect
this might work with his set up as he is only trying to go from a 33 to a 41 tooth capacity
>>
>>1577277
Just out of curiosity, do those extenders increase capacity or just the max cog that the derailleur can clear?
>>
>>1576753
if you had v brakes I would worry a little, but side pull calipers are a bit more forgiving
you braking will be slightly un even, sort of pulceing on and off, this is more noticeable when its raining or you are on slippery surfaces, I would not worry about it

strange it may sound I dont think how true the wheel is matters as much as having an even spoke tension all round (esp with diskbrakes)
I can "quickly" straiten a wheel down to within 0.1 of a mm +- but I really suck at evening out the spoke tensions
so long term some spokes take more load than others and suffer from fatigue and break at the J bend (or half way up the spoke if they are stainless steel and had too much chrome)

>protip ignore everything below this > take it to a bike shop you trust, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FIX THIS BY YOUR SELF get real help
in your webm (assuming the back left brake pad is shown)
as the wheel moves towards that brake pad the spokes on the (right Drive side) of the wheel will be tighter (spokes can be plucked like a string)(or just use a spoke tension meter)
if you find overly tight spokes on the (left non drive side) of the wheel and loosen them the wheel should bend towards the tight spokes on the (right Drive side)
as the wheel bends towards the (right Drive side) spokes on that side that were once tight are now loose, and loose spokes are even looser
the flip side being that spokes on the (left non drive side) are now also more tight (aside from the ones that were loosened by hand earlier)

using this method I do a rough truing of the wheel
then spend a bunch of time after that letting the spokes settle by riding the bike or gently bending the wheel by hand
and after each settling in going around again to check if any spokes are too tight (ie doing too much work) or too loose (doing almost nothing at all)
>>
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>>1577282
I'm sure its only the max cog that the derailleur can clear that is improved
I suspect they are often used in 1x setups for reason because its much simpler that way
the web sight for the wolf tooth road link shows it can be used with a 2x system, but there are specifics (such as a compact chainring(50/34t ???)

the parallelogram still has to follow the curve of the cassette cog
and the distance between the jockey wheel and tension wheel (along with how far the lower knuckle spring can rotate) is what maintains the chain tension
so the max difference between smallest and largest chain ring comes into play for chain tension
and the length and droop of the FD cage may not work well with some combinations of gear due to the angle of the chain

to give some examples from old 34 tooth SGS Derailleurs
shimano rd-ty23 and shimano rd-mr40 have very long hangers and the old style of parallelogram
the later shimano RD-TX51 GS and shimano RD-TX71 GS have shorter hangers and the newer slant parallelogram
shimano rd m340 has bigger jockey wheels and a shorter GS length cage but still manages the wrap and capacity
>>
My eyes are very bad in dark and I need to get a light.
How many lumens/lux strength should I be looking for? I want to see decent amount of what's on front of me.
>>
>>1577309
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxn5OnmXfwA
>>
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so far as I can tell something at least above 400 lumen
around 800 lumen seems good in terms of being able to power the light
most of the modern bike likes use lithium cells anyway so may as well nut up and get a 18650 powered one
the problem being that alto 18650 is standard the managed cells with a safety cutoff built in are a little expensive
>>
Are there any 1 inch threadless forks on the market. For a roadbike.
>>
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>>1577309
In my experience 400-ish was just about adequate on a (paved) path with no other light, though I wished I had more.

>>1577314
>the tard who responds to every question with a GCN video
>>
>>1577321
yeah, this
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Columbus/Minimal-Carbon-Fork-p54409/
well regarded.
soma has some steel ones.
or you could chance your arm on aliexpress/ebay carbon chinkshit and report back because i too have been tempted to do that.

you can get a 1" threadless cane creek 40 too.
>>
>>1575305
Blessed post.
>>
>>1575276
Tri bikes are legit faster for strava type stuff, I mean it's literally a time trial... you gotta start juicing or simply go to the dark side
>>
>>1577180
>>1577277
>>1577288

Okay, thanks a lot anons, I'll try again with my current setup and if it still won't work I'll look around for a used RD who can support it
Once I'll make any progress I'll report back here
>>
>>1575616
the hill that I go down most days its only 50 kph due to the wind
60 kph is possible on a good day if I tuck
I wanted to go faster so one way I got extra speed is by lowering the seat so far that when I'm pedaling my knees get really close to my shoulders
I found that I can spin my legs at 200 rpm but I'm not generating enough torque to push the bikes tallest gear (if I could it would be something like 80 kph)
by not using the tallest gear I was able to reach 70 kph but then cars started getting in the way and it got harder to stay in my lane though the corners

I was not using clip less or pinned pedals, so it was hard to keep my feet in place
if your legs are stronger I would say its best not to exceed 170 rpm by very much, and you should have taller gears than me anyway
you need to figure out at what rpm your body is putting out the most power, for me its 130 rpm
>>
>>1577180
>You got nearly the cheapest specs in it's class. It's a new, meme build with no track record. Should be good enough to start with, as long as you don't run out of gears. Probably a solid commuter.
>
>Nothing on that is worth upgrading. If things fail, cobble together cheap replacements and use it as a beater.

that's what i thought
I already feel like the toughest gear is not tough enough, I could ride faster, oh well

the bike it's meant to be a city bike for me, one which i wont regret losing/damaging
>>
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Bike retard here, need some advice on bike chain lubing. What I remember last reading is that you want to apply a drop on each link from the inside of the chain; the side that actually rolls over sprockets and such. Afterwards spin the pedals backwards with a clean rag over the chain for 5-10 minutes to absorb most of the excess lube. Is this anywhere close to proper?
>>
>>1577359
Apply the drop to the roller, not the link. Doing it from the inside is fine, but autism. 5-10 min is overkill, it just needs to be wiped until sufficiently dry which varies on lube and preference
>>
>>1577359
yes its best to go from the inside of the chain
no need to lube each pin by its self
just oil as you clean grime and wipe excess

up to three rags can be employed - but most of the time its not needed
the first pass rag gets covered in grime - so can be a dark colored and low quality fabric
second pass rag is just to wipe off anything missed in the first - gray fabric is good for this
third pass rag has to be light in color so that it becomes apparent when the rag is too dirty to use for on a third pass

as the rags age you can downgrade them as to what pass they get used on
the rag needs to be cleaner than what you are trying to clean
so when a rag gets dirty just find something even more dirty than it to clean
>>
What do I need to ride in the cold? Say 30-40 degrees. I just got my first bike and I’m bummed about the winter weather. I have a mountain bike and will be riding around 2 miles of pavement to a 7 mile trail system near my house.
>>
>>1577373
There aren't enough rags in the world to clean my vanta black chain by rolling alone. Altho now it's lightly dark steel color and leaves dark lines in a rag/finger only after a few rotations. I'll go for a test ride tomorrow.
>>
>>1577378
You need warm clothes... Haven't you ever gone outside in the cold before? Just ride your bike and see how you feel. Was I too warm or too cold?
>>
>>1577359
I'm with this anon. No matter how long i run my chain through a rag it always stays dirty. I still lube it reguarly, but I've given up on it not getting my right shin filthy.
>>
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>>1577378
>Fahrenheit ?
anyway layers are good, they can be added and subtracted as needed, and do not take up so much bulk as heavy clothing
but you do not want to over heat as sweating will just make you colder, a little bit of ventilation goes a long way
wind chill also hits different parts of the body first
roughly in order of when numbness sets in
ears then nose then cheek bones
hands then forearms - by this point you should take a rest, dry out and slowly warm up, if you get any colder its gonna be a bad time

if your pedaling all the time your legs do get warm so they need less protection from the cold, I sometimes bike in shorts or thin leggings but with everything else thickly covered
however when ever you slow down or stop biking you will need leg insulation so carry thick trousers with you
else you might be able to find some trousers that can be folded or converted to shorts then back again

in the extreme of cold or speed you may want to get some ski goggles, anything not alike to this fogs up
and face coverings, tho a full balaclava is not always needed
https://bekogear.com/face-masks/
>>
>>1577378
buff
>>
>>1577378
I vote for buff too, just got one a few weeks ago, it’s fucking mint
Gloves too but that should be obvious, long sleeve shirt (I’ve been using an old navy thermal with a wind proof jersey on top)
>>
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Just noticed this gap on the rim joint while messing about with my bike in the basement. I think there was a piece of tape once covering it.
Is this normal lol
>>
>>1577479
>just buy a used bike they said
>>
Sold my old bike, gonna drop about 3.5k on a used enduro bike. What do you guys recommend as the best bike for my buck? I really want a Hightower, but I’ll take anything that’s a 29 and around 150mm of travel
>>
>>1577481
ackshually it's a $300 (new) bike I got off the internetz a long time ago.
Decent frame, goes fast but everything on it is shit - as one would expect from a $300 piece
>>
>>1577437
a quality tactical balaclava is probably cheaper and works better imo.
I got this really sick one at Costco that's been making my dome sweat
>>
>>1577479
on cheap bikes yeah
>>
>>1576760
>Died when MIR crashed into him
>>
>>1577479
Nope, they always machine rims from a single, solid piece of metal. lol lol lol lol lol lol lol lol
>>
is there any point in buying spare hoods while you're at it
the original hoods might last for decades? tens of thousands, hundreds of thousands of miles? if i drop the bike, i reckon the lever blades might also get rekt, so meh
would you get spare hoods for peace of mind if the levers are an older model and seem to be prone to availability issues (hope it's just because covid but they could end up being ultra rare like some older campag levers)
or even just for resale value so the buyer can have clean and unworn hoods
>>
>>1577516

Levers wear out a lot sooner than hoods. If it's sram or bad shimano, the ratchets too probably. I would never consider stocking spare hoods against need, that's crazy.
>>
>>1577315

giant recon
best headlight by price on the market by a wide margin
>>
>>1577070
SKS longboard P65 26"
insanely long, best coverage. rated up to 2.35"
>>
>>1577109
I would avoid disc on anything but a mountain bike. v-brakes are the easiest things in the world to maintain and disc isn't even "good" unless it's hydraulic. your fork will be stiffer with disc as well, slightly less comfy
>>
>>1577180
>disc brakes keep your braking surfaces out of snow, water, and slush, so the fx2 is probably the better choice. Consider making or buying cheap plastic fenders
have you actually run fenders with disc? in the rear, fenders drop dirt and grime directly into the brake pads. disc is a joke with fenders but hipsters still do it
>>
>>1577516
>should I buy spare parts for my old outdated shit while I have the chance even if I don't need them right now?
always

>>1577532
Hoods on my claris shifters were stretched out and didn't fit quite right after a few years. Levers themselves are still working great.
>>
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>>1577266
lel wat.
how much do you weigh, what width tyres are you running and how much does your bike weigh?

>>1577359
The main place you need oil on the chain is inside the rollers where they act on the bushings (pins), everywhere else is a waste really and you should be wiping off all outer excess once the solvent in the oil dries off.

>>1577479
I-is that light showing through that gap?
If so, throw that wheel away before you end up losing half of your front teeth.

>>1577516
Do you mean the rubber hood covers, the plastic shifter body, or the ratchet? Replacement hood covers are easy to get, but if the other parts fail then you just need a new shifter with the same amount of speeds and cable pull ratio see this site for more info:
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Gear-changing_Dimensions#Rear_Shift_Ratios

>>1577555
Side pull cantis are GOAT if they have good adjustment on them, though I do have discs on my roadie and like them.
Only issue is entry level hydraulic disc road bikes usually have resin pads and resin pad specific rotors, so if you do any kinda of hard braking and descending you'll need to upgrade both for metallic compound brakes.
Resin is pure garbage unless you're a timid greyhound who gets dropped on descents.
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>>1577495
>>1577510
what's the worse that could happen fuggg ittt XDDDDD
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>>1577582
I'm 80kg, I run 700x23 gator contis on a carbon giant tcr
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>>1577583
I had to get expensive forged rims because I kept making tacos out of my rear wheels when I'd bunnyhop into a gutter
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>>1577533
I assume the battery is entombed ?
lithium cells only seem to last between 5 and 8 years, so I usually focus on how easy they are to replace
other than that and giants light mounts being a bit fragile it seems like a nice light for its automatic features
>>
what's a good portable pump for roadbike ie 100psi?
>>
>>1577644
i got one from aldi but it's shit, doesn't hold pressure
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>>1577644
rennkompressor
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>>1577644
Go to whatever bike shop or sporting goods store (*not* walmart etc.) is close to you and buy whatever's cheapest and has a built in pressure gauge. Buying unknown brands from amazon is a dice roll and buying from a bike website won't be any cheaper.
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>>1577660
then I have to interact with people
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>>1577619
These are your rough tyre pressures you'll need (assuming your tyres actually measure 23mm width.)
Going for 25c/28c would signifcantly reduce the pressure needed for the same rolling resistance, but go try these pressures and see how they feel.
subtract a few psi if the roads are particularly terrible.
>>
>>1577716
Thanks. Hey this may be a dumb question, but I've always ran 23 tyres, just because I've never tried different sizes, but I could easily get a pair of 700x25's or something and then the appropriate tubes?
Also, when I rode bmx I used to often use fatter 20inch tubes with thinner tyres and it made no difference, is it the same with racers? I just assumed larger tubes would have to fill that space anyway.
>>
>>1577737
Depends on how much you weigh, but it's almost a rule that 25c is the norm now.
I like really supple 28's, they're the sweet spot and are comfortable on all but the very worst pothole riddled roads.
>>
>>1577266
you should have like 80-100 psi minimum, going to high end 25mm tires could improve the ride quality but it won't make or break your wheel durability, just don't slam into curbs like a retard, and maybe you just need better wheels, people don't realize the difference between cheap shit wheels with floppy rims and low spoke tension and high end wheels
>>
Is this a good solution for 18km work rides? I need to put things on my backpack like tower, because I shower before work and I don't think it gets 6kg heavy.

Anyone have any experience on them?

Also I'd be able to use on future old Full suspension bikes.
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>>1578316
>The bots are learning
>>
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>>1578403
? It was a genuine question. I also have an gold gt idrive where I'd like to be able to carry stuff arround on the bike and not on my back
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>>1579025
>I need to put things on my backpack like tower, because I shower before work and I don't think it gets 6kg heavy.
Huh?
>>
>>1579068
>tower
didn't see.. was suppose to see towel, as well as second clothes and other things as I take shower before work, so the backpack gets a bit heavy for 18km rides.
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>>1579025
that bike is blue not gold
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>>1579132
Good Lord, another error.. "got" not gold, and the gt I have is red actually, same system though.
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>>1579025
I see you have some unused v brake bosses on the rear triangle
>>
and racks can be grafted to the lower slider
this is easier if the cross brace has the hole that is normally used for front reflectors or to attach mud guards, or cantilever straddle wire catchers
>>
and P clamps are always an option
main problem being that quick release axles are not an ideal place to support weight
,esp when combined with disk brakes
>>
last spam post just to show the front rack with v brake bosses in use
this rack is also adaptable to p clips
and there is also a rear version of this rack
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>>1579212
the idrive I have has disc breaks behind so I can't mount some things on it, though on my other gt, a sensor one, I wish for one day make pic related, but for now I'm just looking for the easier/more affordable option to go on other bikes if needed.
>>
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>>1579213
btw, I was descending a dirt road with my buddy and he was on a 29 2020 gt hard tail and couldn't keep with me because of the control idrive rear suspension offered. Even being such an old bike and a bit heavier too, the FS offers so much more comfort/control, wish more people looked into fs for gravel/long rides.
>>
>>1579303
It was a quality bike at the time, though. You have to stop the mindset of:
>It's old, therefore it's automatically bad
Yes, bike tech has progressed a lot, but people compare bikes of 10 - 20 years ago as driving a Model T on the road today.
>>
>>1579413
>You have to stop the mindset of:
>>It's old, therefore it's automatically bad
it's not me that had that but my friend that spend much more on a new bike instead of buying a good full suspension 26 one.



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