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/k/ - Weapons

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Talk about 3D printed and DIY guns.

previous >>50747505
>>
What's the current state of the art regarding barrel manufacture? Is everyone still ECMing out chink airgun barrels, or is there a better way yet?
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THREAD REMINDER
>DON'T reply to tripfags
>DON'T reply to obvious trolls
>DO hide all tripfags including mrcrummy and sieg
>DO download all 3d printing files from the gatalog
>DO go to /3dpg/ on /diy/ for 3dprinting basics and faq's
>>
>>50800322
Are 3d printed gun accessories welcome in these threads?
Have an Ender 3 pro and am thinking of buying a parafal. Kinda wonder if I can add some drip to it
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>>50800462
Entirely welcome friend. It prints, it machines, it's/k/ related, it's here.
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>>50800322
I have a Prusa I3 MK3S and a spool of PLA+ and was wondering, would an FMDA Glock frame with the Poly 80 style frame rails be a reliable enough gun to trust my life to?
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>>50800583
Any weapon > no weapon. But yes, the frame is actually rather reliable.
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>>50800594
Do you have any evidence? I printed an FMDA G19 frame with the old style rails with the frame down and installed all my parts only for the trigger not to work so I just gave up, printed a few frames with the frames up so I wouldn't have to dig out so much support material but I've given up, I just want something I can trust my life to, might give it another try with the Poly 80 style frame rails.
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Rip in Peice JStark. LIVIN' FREE!
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I'd pay money for someone to develop a 20 rnd mas 49 magazine and mas 36 rear sights.
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>>50800322
Anyone got the sumac stl?
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https://www.mediafire.com/file/j6yba8ickyle6tk/Gun_Plans_2019.zip/file
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>>50800400
THREAD REMINDER
>DO disregard ignorant faggot niggers that don't know what they're talking about
>DO NOT glow any harder than you all already are.
>>
I dont really care about guns(yea get it out of your system) but i came across this and thought it was cool project to take up, how strong is PLA really? you guys temper your PLA? Also, this device is completely illegal in my country, yea I know its basically a toy, how much should I be concerned about that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khtjkzfqMY8&ab_channel=JoergSprave
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>>50800867
filtered :^)
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>>50800867
thanks for posting, added you to the filter
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>>50800665
heard the news just right now, RIP JStark
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>>50800867
>seething about being filtered
>cringe ass tripcode
Yup that's another one to the filter.
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>>50800614
It can take a little work to fine tune things and make one that is reliable. Don't expect your first try to be perfect unless you have significant experience with tricky 3d printed projects.
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How hard is it to modify an already made model? Let's say I wanted something really retarded like a Glock frame that flush fits pic related. How much time am I looking at spending to make that work from square 1? I'm about to get into 3d modeling and have some pretty cool ideas.
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>>50801591
Maybe 10mins at most if the model isn't made by a retarded retard.
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>>50801591
that is pretty impossible to quantify, but if you are totally new to 3d modeling it might be a weekend or 4. Really depends on you more than anything else. Dont start with .stl files, get the step files or fusion 360 files and go from there. An stl is going to be a lot more of a pain in the ass to modify for someone totally green.
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>>50800339
>is everyone still ECMing out chink airgun barrels
I'm not aware of anyone ever having done that. Peope ECM Chinese Chromoly tubing
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>>50801987
Yeah, that's about as fine of an estimate as I was looking for. I was just hoping it wasn't a "you'll need at least a year of modelling experience to even attempt this" situation.
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>>50802120
I dont know for sure, but it would be my guess that most of the people making models in the 3d printed gun community started with no experience whatsoever. I cant think of anyone who had any previous engineering, drafting or 3d modeling experience. Its just software, its really not a big deal. You put in time you get better. Chairmanmeow or whatever he calls himself does everything in free software and he seems to be getting by fine.

For what its worth If all you really want to do is stretch a grip to change the mag length there is probably a stretch or scale command in the software you are using that will do it all in one operation. Cut the model at the point you want to stretch it (3 parts), stretch the middle part, and rejoin everything into a manifold object. It should be pretty trivial.
>>
Today at 4:40PM DD Rocketchat admin DR._Death announced a beta for the "c0ld d8rk h8nd" DIY ECM CNC machine.
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So steel core AP ammo is legal as long as it can't fit in a pistol, right?
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>>50800322
https://youtu.be/ZTUOGalknUM
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>>50800583
It's very hard to have that kind of trust for a 3d printed piece. What if there was a flaw in your curing process that results in it failing after x rounds? You can't do a batch test like a gun manufacturer can, and 3d printing is notoriously easy to fuck up
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This yeah is for you jstark
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Everything looks cooler with a buncha money and a blacklight.
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>>50803683
>a bunch of money
where?
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>>50803691
Its a bunch for me senpai, I only immigrated here from europe a few years ago :'(

Anyways, heres some dumb shit I made in my garage that works surprisingly well for how little effort I put into it.
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>>50803524
> He asks about PLA+
> you start talking about a curing process

You pretty clearly dont know wtf yer talking about.

>>50800583
I made one on my ender 3 V2 in PLA+ as a dimensional accuracy shakedown test. It turned out pretty gud. I did not assemble and fire it, as I couldn't get glock parts at the time due to covid panic. I think my toddler has it in her room and plays with it now.

So, I can't tell you "yeah I've run 10,000 rounds through mine and it still works great" or anything like that. Just that I didn't see any reason the frame I ran off couldn't be serviceable.
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>>50800867
fuck off newfag
>>
What are the relevant laws on electronic triggers and electronic priming? Will the ATF come buttrape you if you build one?
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>>50801591
If all you've got is an STL, then it's straight up impossible, you gonna have to redo the entire thing from scratch. If you've got the CAD file, then it's a toss-up between an easy mod and having to redo the entire thing from scratch, there's no fucking middle ground. That's because when you have to change dimensions and shit it will only be tweakable to the extent that the model geometry allows it, anything beyond that will cause manifold errors and FUBAR the model completely.
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>>50804147
One trigger pull = one shot fired. Past that the ATFE does not care.
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>>50804163
What about """"readily convertible""""?
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>>50804154
>>50801591
Also. The amount of time it takes to do shit really depends on how much prior experience you had (you'd just navigate faster) and whether or not you're copying existing design (you probably will be on account of making compatible hardware).
>>
>>50804177
Most semi auto weapons are readily convertible to full auto. In any case you can rig up an electric circuit that is not self repeating, for example a capacitor and a coil - it will DISCHARGE for as long as you hold the trigger, meaning once you pulled it, it will never be able to fire again until you release it and let it CHARGE.
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>>50804147
>>50804177
Depends on the mechanism of action. If you just have to change the termination of a wire to make it full-auto, it may be considered NFA. You need it to work in a way that makes it fundamentally impossible to send a constant current.

If you're just making it for personal use and aren't worried about being raided by the ATF for anything else, >>50804163 is good enough. Don't give anybody a reason to suspect you're breaking a rule and nobody will try to find out you're breaking a rule.
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>>50804147
>>50804163
>>50804228
>>50804230
I want to make something that's not reliant on chemical primers, because that's been by far the biggest bottleneck during the current ammo shortage. Currently I'm thinking about polymer cases + an internal spark gap, with contacts on the outside of the case. There would be 3-4 9V batteries (like you would get at the grocery store) wired in series in the stock. Then the trigger would be a simple contactor, but the contact would get mechanically reset by the action after each shot, requiring a second trigger pull.

So overall, hopefully easy to assemble and source the components for. Would that pass the ATF sniff test?
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>>50804263
Forgot to add: theoretically you could make it go FA by bypassing the trigger mechanism entirely and just hard wiring the circuit closed, but would that fall under "readily convertible"? I would like to eventually distribute the design.
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>>50804263
Your contactor gonna get welded on the first trigger pull, then your battery bank gonna catch fire. Also you really underestimate just how much voltage (and current!) is needed to create and sustain an arc discharge. You gonna need a capacitor bank and a booster coil. Depending on desired rate of fire, it can be powered off a single 9v cell.
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>>50804279
Would it? I've seen similar contactors used in the trigger mechs for airsoft guns. Ideally I want to keep it as simple as possible and avoid any specialty components like capacitors or booster coils, since that would take away somewhat from avoiding a primer shortage.
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>>50804287
At the point where it can produce an arc, it would. Hint: a car spark plug uses upwards of 10 000V to generate a tiny spark, and a welder machine uses upwards of 50A to sustain the arc.
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>>50804300
I mean, airsoft guns get arcing on their trigger contacts and they're only running around 12V. Is the motor just acting as a giant inductor, causing arcing?
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>>50800322
Dont forget your pokey poke
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>>50804313
When you jam conductors into each other, you don't need much voltage to make sparks. When you have a fixed spark gap, it's a different story.
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>>50804324
Would a hybrid approach, that mechanically closes the spark gap inside the case, make sense?
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>>50804324
>>50804336
What about fine gauge nichrome at 36-48V?
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>>50804263
Electrical engineer here, but I don't do much circuit design. Best way to do this would probably be fancy switching stuff with an inductor/transformer, though I think it isn't a viable idea compared to something like the Remmington etronx.
First thought is to use a small high winding ratio transformer in series with a switching FET. Add a zener diode in reverse bias in parallel with the FET. This may be overly large, no idea what sort of transformers are available or what you could wind yourself. Probably pretty poor from a power usage standpoint.
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>>50800867
Kek based
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>>50804599
Probably will get blown up by the gunpowder.
>>50804336
How will it move in a chamber full of gunpowder?
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>>50804997
>Probably will get blown up by the gunpowder.
Who cares? It's just an expendable ignitor integrated into the case. I did some experiments a few years ago where short ~1 inch strands of 36AWG will burn up almost instantly at 12V. I think that should be perfect.
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>>50805078
You don't need 12 volts, a single cr123 would be plenty to get the wire to glow red hot
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>>50800665
rest in extreme peace :(((
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>>50805094
The prob isn't getting the wire hot, its getting it hot quickly enough to ignite the propellant without producing a delay between trigger pull and firing.
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>>50806115
If you use a fine nichrome it would be fine
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>>50806155
I'm still not sure the split second contact of a trigger pull would be enough. In order for a weapon to be accurate you need the delay between the trigger pull and the firing to be somewhere within the human reaction time of 250ms. Preferably shorter.

Another issue is gonna be ignition, a primer or some sort of priming compound is extremely efficient at starting ignition both quickly, and evenly. I think just a hot wire is going to provide a messy ignition and inconsistent burn rate, and am inclined to agree that a pretty powerful arc is necesarry to be able to adequately replace the role of a primer without undue performance loss.

If we just want it to technically work, a hot wire is fine, but functionally you'd be looking at having a weapon that uses modern powder with the same issues as a matchlock or flintlock. (delay between trigger pull and firing, slower ignition, inconsistent powder burn rates)

I think the reason electronic ignition isn't a thing in small arms is prob due to these factors and that overcoming them increases the complexity and fragility of a firearm's action by a pretty large margin.

Would be really neat to see somebody try to overcome them though. Its a difficult but not impossible problem.
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>>50800322
Could he just not have named the gun like an edgy teenager?
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>>50806466
>I'm still not sure the split second contact of a trigger pull would be enough.
>what is a debounce
>powerful arc
There is no arc, it's strictly resistive heating of a resistive element (nichrome)
That's how commercial ematches and electronically fired detonators work (excluding slapper and exploding bridge wire detonators which are an entirely different concept and mechanism)
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>>50806568
No, tacky gun names are an honored tradition in the 3d printing community
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>>50801591
>Let's say I wanted something really retarded like a Glock frame that flush fits pic related
I gotchu mang
https://www.origamifaceshield.com/
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>>50802573
Oh it's on now since they figured out how to print and copper plate ECM tooling.
https://youtu.be/CtM7xQWHMTw
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Why are there no 3d printable drum mags? are they just too hard for poor ol' pla+?
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>>50802483
That isn't quite true, I use blender for some texturing applications but I primarily work in Solid Edge with some model cleanup in Solid Works.

And I have been a professional industrial designer for the past like 8-9 years or so but that is absolutely atypical. Most people in the community learned to model for making guns.
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>>50806692
FYI I haven't tested the dickus frames with any drum mags, i suspect they may be too long but if you measure it out and just drop the grip below the build plate in cura to get the right size you should get decent results
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>>50800322
Where do I put the PS Move controller in?
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>>50806912
Your ass.
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>>50802859
Try the Cutie-Dot thread.
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>>50806863
I don't understand how these are made with multicolors. Are they custom printers that have multiple heads? Or the spool swapped out and a second run done?
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>>50808406
the multiple extruder one. Theres 2, 4, even 6 extruder printers that can be configured to run from separate spools print things different colors.
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>>50808406
They are just painted. I have videos on my channel on how to do it properly
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>>50800886
>>50801298
>>50801376
Yawn. I'd call the Wambulance, but you aren't worth the effort.

>>50804070
Lurk moar retard
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>>50804952
>>50800867
>two namefaggots sucking each others cock
Yep this is going into my filter
>>
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>>50809170
>Tripfags are attention whores! REEEE!
>Im filtering you and letting everybody know I am!
What is a contradicting hypocrite, Alex?
Do you retards feel some sort of satisfaction announcing to the world that you filtered a trip? That's being an attention seeking bitch just like you guys accuse us tripfags of being. Oh the irony. Keep on doing you though anon, never ceases to make me smile.
>>
Has anyone here ever tried a 3d printed muzzle break?
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>>50804263
Take a look at the Boltor, I think it's the only model around that works with this electrical starter concept.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VormyM4gp0k
>>
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>>50809697
You have to be 18 to post here noguns
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>>50808973
youve been a tripfag since april, youre a fucking newfag
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>>50808203
What?
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>>50809815
>implying I'm a newfag because I used this trip for six months
Go ask BunkBedGuy how long I've used this name, not the trip because I CHANGED THE PASSWORD you absolute stupid nigger. And I've been around long before I started tripping. Jfc you newfags are fucking insufferable, miserable, cock gobbling, cum guzzling, nigger loving, cucks.
>>
>>50808973
>>50809378
>>50809750
>>50810221
filtered
>>
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>>50810227
Another one of these>>50809378 cry some more, your tears taste delicious
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>>50810221
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>>50810318
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>>50810221
It's not a password. It's a secure tripcode. You fucking newfaggot drama queen.
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>>50810372
>>50810318
>>50810170
>>50809815
>>50809170
stop responding to these faggots, you even bigger faggots.
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>>50810407
Replying to what faggots? I don't see any posts. :^)
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>>50810407
This. Just ignore and they'll go back
>>
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>>50810372
>It's not a password. It's a secure tripcode.
>Cum guzzler noguns doesn't understand how that works and defines the tripcode.
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>>50810372
Holy shit, you're retarded not just for replying, but for not knowing how tripcodes work. You absolute autist.
>>
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It seems like the main bottlenecks preventing us from using intermediate and full power cartridges is that those kinds of chamber pressures require steel that has either been cold worked or heat treated or both. Additionally, our only source of barrels isn't rated for those kinds of pressures. How do we fix this, /k/?
>>
>>50810526
The main bottleneck is the lack of a DIY locking system and Bottleneck cartridge ECM
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>>50800322
is the FMDA DD17.2 V1.4 G5Spring Frame a gen 5 glock frame, idk how to tell
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>>50810645
I think I've found a way around that by using a simplified version of the Textron NGSW's rising chamber block and push-through CT ammo, but in both cases you still run into the material limits of the raw, unprocessed steel.
>>
>>50810526
>>50810645
>>50810681
And I mean, you can always do guerrilla heat treating with some charcoal and a well trained eye, but the risk is that if you do it wrong, you get a face full of shrapnel.
>>
>>50810681
>the raw, unprocessed steel.
iirc, the barrel material most commonly used for FGC-9 ECM barrels is rated for around 50k PSI sellers have other "explosion proof pipes" in other bore diameters and probably with higher ratings.
>>
>>50804263
What you could try is a revolver-style gun. Each trigger pull rolls the cylinder, so one bullet per trigger pull. The circuit can just be a simple open circuit all the way to the hammer, which will strike somewhere that'll close the circuit and prime the cartridge.
>>
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>>50810707
>heat treating with some charcoal and a well trained eye
Anon...I promise almost nobody on /k/ is capable of that. Even using a propane forge like picrel, the majority would fail.
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I'm thinking about getting a Prussia Mini as my first 3D printer. I like that it's preassembled, made in the Czech Republic (rather than Chinkland), and the smaller size is nice, as I don't have much living space atm. My question is: is it *too* small to do any cool gun related printing? Firearms aren't the entire reason I want a 3D printer, but they are a significant part.
>>
>>50810965
Prusa Mini*
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>>50810965
well you can always adapt larger frame afterwards. but for current 100x100x100 size you are limited to small parts like girps and etc.
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>>50810965
>I like that it's preassembled
don't let this affect your purchase decision, literally all it's gonna do is put off learning until you want a larger printer or some upgrades, and it isn't that hard
>>
>>50810526
>>50810645
>>50810681
>>50810707
EDM
D
M
>>
>>50811015
Unless I'm missing something, I believe the print volume for the Prusa Mini is 180x180x180mm. Still small, but considerably bigger than 100x100x100mm.
>>50811043
I understand that. It's not the actual assembly that worries me, but the setup and work to get decent prints. I thought it might be nice to start out with something that "just werks" and actually has customer support.
>>
>>50811057
EDM is limited by ridiculously slow material removal rates. Also you still have the same problem as before with most steels as-sold not being strong enough without additional treatments.
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>>50811189
>EDM is limited by ridiculously slow material removal rates
I know it's not ideal, but given 3dfags can wait up to 2 days for their print to finish, I don't think this is something we should worry about too much.
>Also you still have the same problem as before with most steels as-sold not being strong enough without additional treatments.
Yeah, that's the real problem.
>>
>>50800583
No. ALL 3d printed pistol frames will fail. Its just a matter of when. They simply don't compare to injection molded polymer when it comes to resistance to shear forces
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>>50811170
>the setup and work to get decent prints.
My first print out of my ender 3 pro was pretty good. Of course, you can ALWAYS optimize (and I did), but it was as out-of-the-box as I hoped for. definitely could get an FGC-9 with the default configuration.
>>
>>50810919
>a propane forge like picrel
Intredasting, that one looks like it might actually be long enough to heat treat a barrel without costing a fortune.
>>
>>50810919
>>50811843
Wow, only $140. This might actually be doable.

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Propane-Double-Blacksmith-Farrier/dp/B08DMPHF61/
>>
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Alright, /k/: help me figure this out and in return I will make you a 3D printed NGSW. How do I bore out a 24" long piece of solid round bar stock and turn it into a barrel blank cheaply using only a 3D printer, a $75 benchtop drill press, and other miscellaneous low cost tooling?

Current ideas are mounting some bar stock in a drill press chuck and turning it into some sort of makeshift vertical lathe, or possibly attempting some sort of ECM deep boring using brass tubing as an electrode. The current challenge is figuring out how to bore a very long, very straight hole with only makeshift tools. I need ideas.

I have pretty much everything else figured out, including an easy-to-build action, high strength heat treated parts, and high pressure electrically primed CT ammo. I'm just stuck on how to easily make a barrel blank.
>>
>>50812661
3D print a sexy lady pixie figurine and a live capture mousetrap, then epoxy a few carbide cutters onto matchsticks. Once you've captured at least 4 pixies send them down the barrel mines in 3 shifts.
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>>50810965
It's a pretty solid printer and you usually don't have to tinker and try around so much with it as with chink printers. But i don't know how well it is to print ABS, ASA or (carbon or glass fiber infused) Nylon with it, which is kinda interesting when it comes to weapon parts.
And on the size issue, don't forget you can place stuff diagonally on the bed for something long but not to wide you can place something with a length of 230mm on it. Some people just forget that.
If you want something to just make stuff and not cheap out or spend a lot of time and money on tinkering and upgrading, it's a solid choice.
>>
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what is your go to recommended filament? is strong PLA all you need? or should I get some petg? ideally something I can easily get off amazon, im too lazy to try to get niche filaments
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Does anyone have any information on these weldable ar lowers? I know the company making them stopped selling them but I was wondering if a drawing packaged existed for the cutouts. Would be a bit more accessible than a 3d printed lower since the only tooling needed is a grinder and a cheep harbor freight welder
>>
>>50813266
eSUN PLA+ is recommended in the vast majority of plans that I have seen, and generally has superior properties to PETG thanks to its improved plasticizers (hence the +).
>>
>>50813445
A quality 3D printer + filament is under $200 and all you have to do is click "print". Cutting out those pieces with a coping saw looks extremely laborious, and you would probably end up needing a 3D printed jig to keep them aligned during welding anyway.
>>
>>50813266
Pla+ but only because everyone designs for pla+. It's kind of a shit material, but it's easy to print on unupgraded chink printers. I'd recommend CFPC but good luck finding a file that uses it. If you make your own files it's not a concern though.
>>
>>50813555
what about esuns PLA super tough?
>>
just saw this thread on the main page, idk anything about gun printing, but had this thought: What about plating your prints in copper or other material to enhance the durability? All it takes is some copper or other metallic spray to coat the print and then electroplate it like anything else.
>>
>>50800583
>a reliable enough gun to trust my life to?
It all depends on the settings, filament quality, fitment and polishing, and of course plenty of testing.
No gun should be considered reliable enough to trust your life with without testing it out. Used, factory new, self-built, it doesn't matter how you acquire it, unless you have it in your hands and can confirm it works with the exact ammo and magazine it will be using the gun cannot be trusted with your life. New guns may act weird while they're still being broken in, used guns may develop unique glitches, and of course homemade guns have an even larger number of failure points when compared to machines and workers who have manufactured thousands of known good guns. Hell, even some known good guns may not play nicely with certain magazines and ammo from certain manufacturers and this factor is multiplied with homemade weapons as they may have a myriad of unknown defects and unique factors.
Sure you'll probably be fine 99% of the time with a gun from a good manufacturer but if you're going to be relying on it to save your life just get a few hundred rounds of ammo and some mags and test it out. Yeah ammo costs a fuckton right now, no it won't matter. A gun that's confirmed to be known good is worth more than anything you'd save by cheaping out and just hoping your shit works.
>>
Has anyone experimented with PVDF fishing line as a filament? It's a thermoplastic fluoropolymer, sort of like a remeltable version of Teflon. It's mechanically temperature stable up to 150 C and chemically stable far beyond that. It also has an extremely low coefficient of friction. I could see it being useful for slide rails and other moving parts, as well as for areas of the gun exposed to high temperatures.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinylidene_fluoride
>>
>>50813652
Poor adhesion to the plastic.

t. actually did this, but for other reasons
>>
>>50800322
Quick reminder

/ \ > / /
>>
>>50812661
You dont.
>>
>>50813744
Just use nylon.
>>
>>50812661
Unless you can get a 24" drill, you gonna have to go pre-industrial and use musket making methods. If you're willing to use shotgun ammo, you can just use plumbing pipes - sch80 3/4" pipe is almost exactly correct inner diameter and is pretty strong.
>>
>>50811189
>most steels as-sold not being strong enough without additional treatments.
4140 & 4150 are everywhere dude.
>>
>>50813566
You don't cut anything, those kits are laser cut steel and require no cutting, you just assemble it and weld it.
>>
>>50812661
I was writing out a long answer but this guy gave a better explanation. >>50813915
>>
UK anon here. Can any of you recommend me a 3D printer for this kind of thing? Looking for something actually good, preferably enclosed.
>>
>>50814967
Anything is enclosed if you put it in a box. Proper printers are not cheap though, ultimakers are a meme but they're pretty much the standard in terms of consumer high end.
>>
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Can I use the ''Creality Ender 3'' 3d printer to have some juice gun related printing? The plate is 220x220x250 mm, is it too small? Pic related, it's the Creality Ender 3.
>>
>>50815314
This is the standard.
>>
>>50814026
They're sold in an unhardened state. A barrel with a 60 ksi yield strength would just blow up.
>>
>>50815751
Barrels aren't hardened dude
>>
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>>50813266
>Pla
I unironically print mostly pei.
>>
>>50815746
Oh, I did not know. Pretty sweet, thanks!
>>
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>>50815314
This is a 90% sized print of the build volume. It's a lot bigger than you think.
>>
>>50815314
the ender 3 series is THE hobbyist printer, if you do get it, its worth it to get the v2 model over the others for an increased price.
>>
>>50815840
Oh damn, I see

>>50815913
What's the difference between the v1 model and v2 model? I'm rather new to printing in general.
>>
>>50815762
You don't understand failure mechanics. Filtered.
>>
>>50815964
Barrels aren't hardened, please try again
>>
@50815968
The chamber is cold worked over a mandrel, work hardening the steel in the region subjected to the most stress, as well as leaving residual compressive stresses that help cancel out the chamber pressure. You are a retard and should gtfo
>>
>>50813566
It would be very laborious with a coping saw that's why you use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. If its a bunch of staked plates you would only need a couple c-clamp to hold it together while welding. The welded lower would probably be a bit stronger as well
>>
>>50816069
>The chamber is cold worked over a mandrel
in a cold forged barrel it is, not all barrels are cold forged, in fact, most aren't
most are just turned on a lathe from a steel rod.
cold forged barrels are a high end item and it's not the normal.
>>
@50816217
>hurr durr I'm soooo retarded!!!
CHF is a different process
>>
>>50800322
Where do I get the FGC files?
>>
>>50816274
You literally just said the chamber is cold worked over a mandrel, that's exactly what cold hammer forging is
>>
@50816290
CHF is similar to rotary swaging. In this case, the barrel blank is rammed longitudinally to open up the chamber. Totally different processes.
>>
>>50816312
Bro are you retarded?
You literally described cold hammer forging and now you're saying it's not CHF
If the barrel is forged when red hot it's hammer forged, if it's forged at room temp it's cold hammer forged, if it's cut on a lathe at room temp it's just a standard barrel.
Most barrels are produced via machining from bars of steel, on a lathe.
I've had gunsmiths make barrels for me out of regular steel rod, nothing was hammer forged lol.
(galil barrels are very hard to get and you have to have them custom made if you want a new one)
>>
>>50800872
Australia? I believe it's technically a slingshot, is it still illegal then? I'm gonna build one as soon as hardware kits are available.
>>
>>50816607
im in canada, and i dont foresee the creator making any hardware kits anytime soon, he has 2 other projects thats been out for a year that never got them.
But the hardware needed isnt too complex or hard to get
>>
>>50815934
Only briefly used the v2 but it has a glass bed by default and the firmware is nicer (but you can upgrade that on the v1 of course).
>>
>>50816642
There are kits out there for the legolini. I assumed it was only a matter of time before someone made on for the adderini. It's not the creator himself who's making the kits, he links to third parties from his website.
>>
>>50815934
I've got a v2. Works great for PLA right out of the box. Glass bed is nice, but the coating on it is a bit strange, just use glue stick. I almost immediately threw a direct drive on it, but it doesn't need it unless you are going to print TPU.
>>
>>50812661
I don't think you'll be able to get precise enough with traditional drilling methods. I don't know much about the ecm process but that would probably be the best direction to go. maybe it would be better to develop your CT cartridge to be fired out of a shorter barrel so you can feasibly machine it at home. Having a proof of concept for an electrically primed CT cartridge would be groundbreaking enough, I think trying to jump to full power rifle cartridges wouldn't be a good idea. you gotta walk before your run as they say.
>>
The fgc9 mkii pdf mentions ordering primers online. I don’t see a problem ordering the nail gun blanks but ordering 9mm primers in Europe is gonna get me put on a list, no? Best way to obtain them other than straight up ordering? Can I buy them in a store with cash?
>>
>>50818710
You can make the primers yourself.
>>
>>50818721
Can you point me to how? Sry for being stupid. Ammo just seems like the main concern
>>
>>50800808
Anymore download links?
>>
>>50803716
>Would take to war with.
8 outta ten anon, out fucking standing performance.
>>
>>50818115
>Having a proof of concept for an electrically primed CT cartridge would be groundbreaking enough, I think trying to jump to full power rifle cartridges wouldn't be a good idea. you gotta walk before your run as they say.
Yeah, that's probably a good idea.

>>50818755
CT cases + electric primers
>>
>>50818755
Do a google search. It's documented in several books.
>>
>>50820779
>just search for keywords that are highly monitored in restricted countries :^)
Not him, but fuck you, you're full of shit. If it really were that easy, you could describe a foolproof version of the process in a few simple sentences.
>>
>>50821443
Someone else already did. CT cases. Stop asking everyone to dripfeed you semen. Go do your fucking homework.
>>
>>50806863
Was this printed on a 3D printer? The plastic (green) looks to be high quality molded.
>>
>>50818755
Reloading primers.You can use priming compound or matches. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQI2bvkE7ic
>>
>>50822092
That's great but I think he was asking how to make them, to reload them you first have to have them, and he doesn't have them, and he can't get them, so I don't see how linking him a video on how to reload what he doesn't have is going to help him.
>>
ran out of money for parts ;(

-g43 build , unfinished
-g17 build , unfinished
-g19 build , unfinished
-10/22 build , unfinished
-SG/22 build , partially complete,

I'm missing a barrel. I might make an insert for it but i want an ar barrel.
>>
>>50813602
I heard it's a bit less flexible than PLA+ and has some negative reviews on Amazon but the couple of people that I talked to on FB have said it is quite easy to print without needing to change settings from PLA+ and it has a bit higher of temp resistance if you leave it in a hot car.
>>
>>50816283
Deterrence dispensed on odysee
>>
>>50818710
See if you can buy once fired brass, if it isn't regulated where you are at
>>
>>50800462
Drip?
>>
>>50822009
The fuck are you talking about? It bears all of the hallmarks of a 3D printed part. you can see the layer lines right there in the image. The layer height is probably just smaller than what you're accustomed to seeing.
>>
>>50800867
>post snake
>glows
target acuired
>>
>>50810170
QTDDTOT
Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread
Often called a Cutie-Dot thread.
>>
>>50825471
But is it legal to make your own DIY steel core ammo?
>>
>>50800322
Rip jstark, i was really sad when i heard the news
>>
>>50813789
i dont get it
>>
>>50826007
it's loss bro
>>
>>50826114
Damn, i gotta get off pol for a while, the first thing that came to my mind was the happy merchant
>>
>>50800322
Where can I find the files for a Gen 5 G17 frame? I'm not sure how to tell them apart.
>>
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iirc the textron ct's lower is polymer, how viable do you guys think it is for 3d printing?
it's a bit large, but I think it should still be possible
>>
>>50803524
shut up you fat retard
>>
>>50808744
which channel? id like to see that, thanks
>>
hey anons, i want to buy a printer and start with this, what type do you reccomend? is there a starters guide?

>inb4 lurk more
>>
>>50827696
lurk more
>>
>>50827696
lurk more
>>
>>50827696
There is a guide, and it tells you which to use as well
>>
>>50827727
>>50827840
fuck you i already called it
>>
>>50826473
The receiver is under almost no mechanical stress. The action, however, will fucking explode if you try to run it at full 100 ksi chamber pressures without strengthening the steel first. A lower pressure PCC would probably be feasible if you don't want to heat treat.
>>
>>50827696
Lurk moar and go to reddit.
I'm not memeing by the way they've got countless guides for absolute beginners and will also be willing to spoonfeed you til you make it.
>>
>>50800614
You're having dimensional accuracy issues with a prusa mk3s+?
>>
>>50827696
I'll get back to you once the offer is over I don't want to be accused of shilling
>>
>>50810965
>auto leveling
>$300
IMO that is worth it. Even with the small footprint. Its not THAT much smaller than other printers.
>>
>>50803888
What's your settings?
What heat do you print at?
I can't get mine to print the overhangs and not look like stringy garbage. And if raise the heat to get it to properly adhere it starts warping
>>
>>50817040
Redpill me on direct drive.
>>
>>50810965
i have one i also have several of the mk3s+ printers and i also have several ender 3's

i don't like the 5s for a reason
>>
>>50811170
Creality fags always brag about "building their printers"

but realistically they're just assembling the printers exactly as you would when buying an assembled prusa.

building an ender 3 pro is actually exactly 4 steps, psu, up rights, and z gantry just as a prusa mini is
>>
>>50800322
Am I just retarded or have seriously zero fully homemade semi-auto rifles been devised yet?
>>
>>50825522
Fucking retard.
>>
How much does it cost to make a FGC-9? Excluding the price of a printer.
>>
>>50830402
There's the FGC-9, but its technically a PCC. The big hurdles are getting steel that's strong enough to handle rifle rounds, and then machining a bottlenecked chamber with some sort of delayed blowback or locking mechanism.
>>
>>50813956
>Unless you can get a 24" drill
Harbor freight. But there's no way that shit will stay straight.
>>
>>50812661
>>50812969
>>50813915
>>50813956
>>50831410
>>50814307
>>50818115
EDM
D
M
>>
Maybe I'm being retarded, but wouldn't a gyrojet-style gun mesh pretty well with 3d printing?
>low pressures
>no need for a rifled barrel
>solid propellent is easier to make than smokeless
Don't get me wrong, the usual problems definitely still apply, and it'd probably have to be a full-length rifle to avoid the inaccuracy issues the original gyrojet pistol had. Still, kind of an interesting idea.
>>
>>50831869
It would, and you're not the first one to suggest it either. But so far nobody has attempted to build one yet.
>>
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>>50806820
>chairmanwon is in the thread
>>
>>50813266
PLA+ is fine, just keep in mind it's not something you leave in a hot car. If you don't want to worry about possible warping from temperature extremes look into PET, Nylon, and PC.
>>
How well does 3d printing work in a place that's hot and humid like florida? Would PLA+ survive in that environment?
>>
>>50831869
Gyrojet sux because rockets are inherently unstable
>>
>>50833754
It would work fine. Just don't leave it in a hot car.
>>
>>50833927
How about actually printing it? Does the humidity affect the adhesion?
>>
>>50833771
Anything spin-stabilized about its major or minor axis is stable. Gyroget spins fast as shit, it is perfectly stable in flight. The issue is that the muzzle velocity is piss low and the recoil plus grip pressure severely affects flight direction.
>>
>>50833937
No but it fucks up printability, makes it stringier, more anisotropic, more brittle, and at a certain point you get internal micro cavities everywhere from expanding steam during printing, which completely destroys its mechanical properties.
>>
>>50833999
So any room I want to print in, I should dehumidify first. Thanks for the info.
>>
>>50833937
From what I know (take this with a grain of salt, I don't have to deal with that sort of climate) PLA shouldn't really absorb enough moisture during the print process to cause problems, however it is still hydroscopic so leaving PLA out for extended periods of time probably isn't a good idea, so either put it in a dry place when the roll isn't in use and/or buy a small food dehydrator.
>>
>>50834043
>small food dehydrator
This spaghetti tastes like shit
>>
>>50831869
yes but then you have all the problems of gyrojet AND the problem of making your own ammo for it .

Like if you could just buy 13mm GJ for $10 for 20 box it would make sense

What's the minimum lethal range for those again ?
>>
>>50834026
No you should dehumidify your spools. You can leave them overnight in a food drier at 50C. Alternatively you can keep them in an airtight box with 3" of desiccant (use the one with colored pellets, they indicate when it gets full of water).
>>
how does the fgc9 compare to the Scz0rpion
>>
>>50835875
because its frequently made/used by slavs that shit themselves every time putin breaths out.
>>
>>50836001
>because
what
>>
>>50836001
How exactly slavs are supposed to use those when you can't buy handgun ammo unless you already own an SMG and therefore is on the FSB record?
>>
>>50818755
Man,read the "but what about ammo" part of the fgc package,everything is explained there

Also: buying an unregulated part like primer doesn't put you on any list if you don't order 20k of em
>>
>>50829382
It's a waste of money in the end since it is too small to print anything of value

>buy ender3v2 for ~230bucks
>buy BLTouch kit for E3v2 ~40bucks
>buy springsteel fleximat coated in PEI for ~20bucks, fuck printing on glass lol
>buy esun PLA+ for another 20

There,all you need for your first adventure for 300 wingwangs and pocket change. Download and flash Jyers Ender 3 v2 firmware 3x3 BLTouch and you are on the same level as prusa-fags while saving 400bucks
>>
>>50831054
A bit more than $200
>>
>>50809378
I've decided to learn how to filter just because of you.
>>
>>50809697
Maybe a steel washer or two would help with that, I know aluminum suppressor baffles get chewed up by little bits of bullet jacket and unburnt powder.
>>
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>>50810526
>>50810645
>How to intermediate cartridge?
Ball lock pins for a locking mechanism.
I think 7.62x39 produces like 3600lbs of bolt thrust, these pins can affordably get you 5000+lbs pullout strength. Lets you do something like the Heym SR30: https://www.forgottenweapons.com/heym-sr30-straight-pull-ball-bearing-lock/
>>
>>50836001
based stroke poster
>>
>>50800400
>that picture
kek
>>
>>50836635
That's really cool. Never heard of those before.
>>
electric gun anon, consider looking into what alternative primers can be found that can be ignited with more compact and simpler circuits than an in-case spark gap requires.

personally I think electric strikers or electric solenoid actuated sears (like cheap paintball guns use) are cool.
>>
>>50836635
That's an interesting mechanism, but you still have to figure out how to accommodate a bottlenecked chamber.
>>
>>50836689
I'm currently looking at using a very short strand of fine nichrome resistance wire as an ignitor. Chemical primers are really hard to get in restricted countries.
>>
>>50812661
Firstly, you'll want "gun drill" bits, https://www.mcmaster.com/drills/extended-length-carbide-tipped-drill-bits-with-coolant-holes/
The thing that makes a "gunsmithing lathe" different than a regular lathe is higher precision bearings, don't expect good accuracy from your jerry-rigged setup unless you do something weird and troublesome to add rigidity and precision. Your drill press probably doesn't have 24" of vertical stroke, and doing increments and repositioning the bar is bound to lead to inconsistencies (but maybe not worse than the bearings were already going to give you).

If you want to make a vertical mill out of a drill press, I'd make a barrel fixture where the top and bottom are screw-adjustable in position. First use an adapter to hold the blank in the lathe, spin the spindle by hand a little, and incrementally position the top and bottom clamps to get the barrel eyeball straight. Then add just a little bit of ink or chalk and slowly turn the bar until it rubs material on the clamp, keep readjusting until the blank is concentric with the spindle and then tighten clamps.
>>
>>50836689
Speaking of electric guns, has anyone made a 3D printed Taser yet?
>>
Lmao I print glock mags for my guns, in a rounds limited state, you only need to print the two sets of files, one for the body of the mag, the other for the follower and locking tab and baseplate, and then you literally only have to buy a ~$2 magazine spring, and there you go, a $5ish non-cucked mag for anything that takes glock mags
>>
>>50836930
That could be a real game changer for all the old guns with expensive, hard to find proprietary mags.
>>
>>50836839
With the ball lock pins, you're going to need to a ring-shaped cutout in your receiver for the balls to go into. Probably going to need a lathe for that. If you have a lathe, that also lets you cut out the chamber shape close enough to finish it with a chamber reamer.
>>
>>50836954
Yea desu we need way more people who actually own oddball guns and hardware to let people model it so we can do exactly that
>>
>>50836954
some of my printed mags have 1,000+ rounds through them, they are solid and reliable dare I say "just as good" as market mags, if you print them correctly
>>
Does anyone know what the twist rate is on the Textron NGSW?
>>
>>50833754
so I live in arizona where it is really dry most of the year, but wet and warm as shit for two months or so during monsoon season. I dont remove my filament from the sealed packages until I am ready to print with it, and I plan my prints such that I dont have open half used spools sitting around. If I have a half used spool I stick it in a foil lined bag with desiccant packs. Having a dry box is probably the way to go (CNC kitchen has videos about it), but I have yet to bother with one. Humidity definitely effects the prints even when you are just evaluating aesthetics. Structurally it has even more dramatic effects. Some spools will also come badly sealed (no hiss) and a wet out of the package. I have a suspicion this is the root of a lot of the poor reviews and performance of some filaments. N00bs print with wet shit and sperg when it doesnt behave flawlessly.

I dont really know how it effects things if you print dry and then let the part sit around for a few months and absorb moisture. All memes aside heat can have a pretty dramatic effect as well. Ive left prints in sunlight in a south facing window for only a few hours and had them warp before. Again this is phoenix AZ sun. You really dont want to leave any kind of plastic that is structural exposed to UV light and heat. Doubly so with PLA.

(pic unrelated but cool)
>>
>>50836266
ender 3 v2 is not a good printer and the bltouch is nothing like PINDA
>>
>>50800462
Same on the ender 3 front. I've got an air rifle and want to make it look more tacticool
>>
>>50836879
why even bother with a drill press?

>not tight enough clearance bearings

CNC mills run the x-y off a leadball just like the x-axis of a ender

the problem with the ender is that they surface grind the threads in THEN chrome it which is why their tolerance is fucking shit

but if you buy a spare leadball off a prusa mk3s+

then it's to tolerance

and packing angular contact bal bearings is no different than packing bearings for a 3d printer.
>>
>>50837490
fuck off prusa shill
>>
>>50837534
Not him, but the drill press is needed for other parts of the build, so it would be good to reuse it. Also, yes, I am aware of gundrills, but the issue is mounting and aligning them, as well as running coolant.
>>
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hot fuckin damn these are looking good
>>
>>50838792
what do the big threads do???
>>
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>>50838906
you haven't suppressed your suppressor before? pleb.
>>
>>50838906
https://www.ftfindustries.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RP-M102SFS-G2
>>
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>>50838921
>suppressed your suppressor
>>
>>50836266
>Download and flash Jyers Ender 3 v2 firmware 3x3 BLTouch and you are on the same level as prusa-fags while saving 400bucks
monumental fucking LOL
>>
>>50815840
4 u
>>
>>50831828
Yes, good music, anon.
>>
>>50834437
>>50831869
>make stupid gun that takes model rocket motors
I've wanted to ever since I heard about Gyrojets. What the fuck would that even be, legally speaking, though? Especially if you're still lighting green fuse or using those resistor igniters, is it anything other than a handheld, potentially dangerous launch pad? Also a reminder that sometimes cheap rocket motors just fucking explode; don't forget that, keep all your fingers, anons.
>>
>>50836689
Look up electric igniters for model rocket motors. May be what you're looking for.
>>
>>50836954
>would finally be able to get Mohawk 12c mags that aren't $30 for a mag that can't be cleaned
Please, I beg you!
>>
>>50836977
It works with the Glock because the magwell in a Glock grip is made for a magazine with thick polymer walls. In guns that require a mag with thin steel walls it may not be so easy. If it's a double stack mag the thicker walls would mean reduced capacity. Not a deal-breaker, but inconvenient. However, if it's a single-stack mag, like most antique guns you're likely to run across with missing mags, there probably isn't room in the grip for a mag that has thicker plastic walls and still be able to fit the ammo in there. Maybe on some guns, but I bet not on most.
>>
>>50837490
its the best in that pricerange. Shut up josef tschechski
>>
>>50815934
or get an Elegoo Neptune 2, and change the springs for silicone spacers made for ender 3.

its a really well built ender 3 v2 clone for $170. I've printed a lot with it, and its pretty good. learning to properly tram the bed is tricky at first, but once you follow some good instructions like CRANK THE BED ALL THE WAY DOWN BEFORE LEVELING/TRAMMING using a preheated to operating temp bed and hotend.
that way you wont fuck up your nozzle and you can really get it good and even for a deliciously flat first layer. hot shit swells, a cold reading on a bed level is going ot be skewed as fuck compared to hot reading.

get ESUN PLA+ the blue is really nice.
>>50818710
get shit in serbia while on "holiday"
>>
>>50839045
>löl
>iksdee

Good argument, i bet you will argue with the mailman, drool after farting and count that as a won debate
>>
>>50840190
i have a e3 v2 BL touch with flat yellow springs, is silicone spacers that much better?
>>
>>50821443
get a VPN and set it for an east coast USA server.
>>50836992
there is a guy who has 5K rounds on his menendez magazine. he also has a mag with designs on it for his sk0rpion
>>50840213
I prefer them because it makes keeping the bed level over a lot of prints much easier for me. most people that try them like them. it makes tiny fractional adjustments to get your prints stuck like hell to the build plate so much easier. that primo adhesion layer you get is gorgeous. follow the guide and things will be fine.

a hint for newbies is this, get a few rolls through it to learn the machine, and to get the sillies out of you. and when printing ammo containers, print the lids upside down to save on a half a roll of infill.
>>
>>50833984
>muzzle velocity is piss low and the recoil plus grip pressure severely affects flight direction.
afaik this is because it takes time to get up to speed as it leaves the barrel...it would make things way more complicated, but I do wonder about an initial charge of powder to get it up to handgun velocities before the rocket fuel starts burning? That would complicate things a lot I'm sure, and isn't a great solution, but I can't think of a better way to get the round up to speed more quickly.
>>
>>50840190
glad to pop into this thread, i was thinking about buying a 3d printer.
i want one with pretty good precision, what determines that?
what makes the "neptune 2" better or worse than the "ender 3 pro"?
>>
>>50840953
If you're after right fdm tolerances you're going to be chasing an expensive dragon that likely will end in you with an ultimaker in a clean room

An ender 3 is not a tight tolerance.
They literally tell you to "just team it with a piece of paper"

What kind of paper. What tolerances on the paper?

Paper isn't 100% flat and the same thickness. It's an organic material and not a precision clearance tool
>>
>>50840213
All my enders still run the virgin springs. Most of the ender fags are 100% new to 3d printing and use shit like silicone spacers, yellow springs to fix "problems" that aren't there with the machine.

Tramming is usually 100% user error.

Yes I'm aware ender 3 beds are not prusa beds and creality beds come heavily warped from the factory.....but you can mitigate those issues.

It's an ender 3 you're not printing high dollar filaments on it's warped ass bed make a few adjustments to your design with this in mind. Or print with a raft because it's an ender 3 until your bed flattens out from the heat cycles.

Or do what I do and just live level by sight.

It's an ender3 not prusa just get it close enough
>>
>>50836266
>Download and flash Jyers Ender 3 v2 firmware 3x3 BLTouch and you are on the same level as prusa-fags while saving 400bucks

Just slap an eBay turbo an any Honda with vtec bro! You'll be on the level with Ferrari fags while Saving 400k bucks
>>
>>50836959
>you're going to need to a ring-shaped cutout in your receiver for the balls to go into
A ring shaped cutout can be easily done with ECM, the bolt would need to be made first (the recoil spring could push onto a separate insert inside of the hollow rear section of the bolt to act on the plunger mechanism) and then cut a little at a time until the ball bearings lock the bolt into a barrel receiver extension. You could get it to unlock by having a floating gas key that pushes back against the plunger but its all about the timing.
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>>50840189
Voxelabs is even better and cheaper than Ender 3
>>
>>50841725
>>50841740
F I L T E R E D
>>
>>50840947
Why would you do that anyway? Gyroget reaches terminal velocity at like 20 yards, you might as well just use the entire propellant to push it out of the barrel and have top speed right at the muzzle. 20 extra yards of range is basically nothing, but not having sub 10 yard lethality is a big deal, nevermind the whole accuracy issue. If you want to make a recoilless weapon just use a beefy enough muzzle brake, but really recoil isn't an issue unless you're firing a cannon.
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>>50836030
CZ is Czech, not Russian.
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>>50840189
for $100 a walmart bicycle is the best in the price range.

doesn't mean that it's a good bike
>>
>>50810491
well he's right, you can't 'change' a tripcode. using a different one is not the same as changing it like a password
>>
>>50841725
>>50841740
clearly seething that a $400 machine runs just as well as your $1200 plus tip machine aernt ya?
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>>50842311
i have multiple ender if they were as good as prusas i wouldn't own any prusas anymore would i?

just as guuuud oorfag
>>
reminder:
IGNORE all tripfag posts
DO NOT REPLY to tripfags (even to tell them they're filtered they love that)
>>
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>>50839866
worst case it may be possible to print some forms to help bend new sheet metal mags
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>>50841967
I'm not really concerned about recoil as much as barrel pressures and rifling, those were the big advantages I mentioned in my first post about it. Low chamber+barrel pressure and no need for rifling would make 3D printing guns almost trivial, since (to my knowledge) those are the areas with the most challenges right now. If you could have a ".308 equivalent" rifle with a barrel made of untreated steel pipe and a printed receiver, that can hit 1 MOA, no ECM or machining needed, that would really be something.
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>>50841696
>What kind of paper. What tolerances on the paper?
I actually know this one: all sheets of 20lb paper are exactly 100 microns thick.
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>>50843069
Paper thickness is measured in microns (mic) and are subject to manufacturing tolerances of ±10% between batches.

that's a fucking lot
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>>50840953
its $170 and not over $200.


its nice how the mods let tripfags ban evade like hell.
>>
Do you guys use the glock lowers from deterrence dispensed? I recall reading those had some fatal flaws, but anything else I'm seeing doesn't mention gen I need for lower parts.
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>>50843196
±0.01 mm tolerances (about ±0.0004 inches) are pretty sweet. That variance probably won't be a problem for a printer, as you've said they're not the most precise tools in the world.
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>>50843346
the old FMDA lowers had some issues with the back rails but the new FMDA rail spec is good.
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>>50804314
would it be feasable to create a 3d printed bayonet lug? or would the plastic melt too easily if it was against the barrel?
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>>50846027
for funsies or for stabbing? It would melt if you fired it any way
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>>50845712
>but in he real world a fast car is something 10 seconds or less
You don't know anything about cars, you fat retard.
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>>50800322

I'm tryin to figure out the best mounting method for swappable 3d printed magwells/grips on a MAC-type gun (normal sheet metal frame). Does anyone have a good method in mind? It would be best if it's relatively QD but still very solid.
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>>50846099
you mean like brass threaded inserts and screws?
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>>50846092
what if I hypothetically wanted to mount an M7 bayonet on a bubba'd .22lr? would a baby cartrige generate enough heat in the barrel to fuck with the plastic?
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>>50846095
anything with a quarter mile time over 10 seconds isn't a fast car. period.

>but what about....
>the marketing says

yeah ricers will tell you a 15 second subaru wrx is a sports car....it's not
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>>50846180
>anything with a quarter mile time over 10 seconds isn't a fast car. period.
Yeah bro, mclarens, ferraris, lambos, dodge hellcats, corvettes, lol slow ass cars amirite.
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>>50846168
take a heat gun or idk a thermometer. Fire your expected number of rounds through it and take the temp of the barrel. If its over whatever the yield temp (? whatever engineerds call it) of your plastic then its fucked. Maybe you could wrap the barrel in some of that fiberglass fabric shit they wrap motorcycle exhausts in and save if from melting but ehhh
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>>50846206
slower than a tesla yeah, marketing
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>>50846180

You are a fucking idiot.

Do the math you chimpanzee and you'll figure out why you are a fucking idiot retard.
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>>50846220
So if it isnt the numbah one fastest car, then its not a fast car? You are a massive retard.
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>>50843196
Got sick of paper myself. Got a feeler gague and have done better since.
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>>50845692
Where do you get the new stls?
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>>50845712
>.01mm is pretty significant in he 3d printing world
People stopped chasing the 10-20 micron layer height dragon years ago. Normal people, that is.
It's a neat parlor trick if you can pull it off, but it's pointless obsessiveness for FDM printers. If you need to print at that resolution, you get an SLS or DLP printer that can do it out of the box.
>>
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>>50846180
>>50846220
>when the tripfag deletes his embarrassing posts
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>>50843069
>>50845529
And that's not even mentioning that (if I'm reading the, what I assume is a mis-spelled quote right) using paper to level a bed has been the standard for non commercial printers for as long as I can remember. All the way back to the earliest modern home printers AFAIK.
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>>50847439
>(if I'm reading the, what I assume is a mis-spelled quote right)
wow I butchered that.
>(if I'm reading what I assume is a mis-spelled quote correctly)
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Stupid, slightly off-topic question: What's the name of that nude female torso that was really commonly 3D printed a few years ago? It was one of the typical "first print" kind of things. I tried searching for it but it comes up with a million other nude female 3D prints.
>>
>>50847578
pink panther woman



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