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Fa/tg/uy here needing some advice.
Just for fun I have been wanting to take pictures of miniatures and then digitally edit them to appear as though they are in combat firing guns.
I just plan on taking this up as a little side-hobby.

I have GIMP installed and plan on using the PhotoGIMP addon:
>https://github.com/Diolinux/PhotoGIMP

I know that photoshopping miniatures to appear in combat requires more than filters and effects copy and pasted onwards.

Any advice is appreciated.

>image source
https://www.deviantart.com/arkurion/art/8th-Valhallan-Armoured-Regiment-on-the-Advance-846858409
There is more stuff from this DA to hopefully show the kind of editing I am interested.
>>
>>429055
Does anybody at the very least know what kind of art media this is called? Does such a style have a name?
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>>429055
Hey bud, try to work along the real thing, check slow motion footage and actual war photography. Understand the process, just like painters study human anatomy, you gotta understand what's going on in your setting. You probably want gun shots and explosions going off, so check slowmo footage of those.

Depending on the resolution you might be able to take screenshots and overlay them in your picture or just use them as reference to create your own. GIMP also has the ability to create custom brushes.

Play around with opacity of a layer, the color settings (hue is color, saturation is how grey / colored it appears, lightness is how black / dark it appears), also color levels and curve, drag that curve around to see how light/dark areas change in your picture.

One filter you might use a lot is the blur/gaussian blur one. Also check tutorials on YouTube. If you have example pictures I might give it a try.
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File: 1650771901848.pdf (1.12 MB, PDF)
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>>429168
Thanks for the explanations! Much appreciated, anon.
Yeah I think blurring and hues really ties things together.
>ey bud, try to work along the real thing, check slow motion footage and actual war photography.
Oh I know that a lot of it comes down to positioning the miniatures and hiding the base.

Anyways I stumbled on a fanbase collective around "Inq28" where they make deliberately bizarre and grotesque miniatures.
One of their digital magazines has a section about the process.
>I used GIMP to extract the specific pages and save them as a PDF and an online PDF compressor.
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>>429168
>If you have example pictures I might give it a try.
I found this. No round bases either.
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>>429055
Take pictures with full knowledge of what you will edit.
Pose the characters apropreatly. Adjust lighting and make the layout good.
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File: ForgeWorld.png (648 KB, 759x753)
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>>429055
Found this on Behance.
A before and after some photo editing. I hope it helps!
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>>429055
>>429279
>>429368
Some Gunpla fans have been doing this for a while now.
This website uses the term "Digirama" for the style.
https://www.gundamkitscollection.com/2013/02/photoshop-tutorial-digirama-via-aemedia.html

Hope it helps.
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>>429365
When doing backgrounds figure out the layers.
Foreground, background and whatever is inbetween.
Make a basic sketch (and i mean basic) and edit over it.
It's not that hard. It's just mashing images together until it looks good
>>
>>429379
>Make a basic sketch
I can try something like that.
>It's not that hard. It's just mashing images together until it looks good
Fair enough then I just have to learn how to use GIMP some more and get some practice in.
Thank you.
>>
>>429279
>>429282
The bases are the least of your problem. You can remove them when editing, either manually or with scripts/filters.

>>429365
You don't need backgrounds, only one greenscreen/similar so you have it easier to remove the background in editing. I'd go with photographs you pull off the internet as backgrounds, just like in the pdf you posted.

When editing a background, just do it as a collage with different layers. Make sure the values of each layer approximate each other. Those being:

>dimension (width x height)
>resolution
>color temperature
>hue, lightness & saturation
>light & shadows

It's simpler than you might think. You pull up two images in GIMP and work your way through the sliders. Check that the dimensions and resolutions fit together, you can make up for differences with a bit of editing but it's more difficult to work wonders here. Then go to Colors > Color Temperature and make it warm/cold, you will see this has the most effect on the colors in your image and it's easy to approximate different layers to each other. Then you might want to (de)saturate your layers, taking the color out or increasing it. As for light, the lightness slider is somewhat sub par to the curves/levels menu, where you can increase or decrease the brightness of all steps across the image individually, i.e. dark, medium and light colors. Maybe adjust the hue of your layers to fit a certain color scheme if a colored light is dominant. Moving the slider left/right a bit will generally result in a more reddish/yellowish result, but this will most often already be fixed by the color temperature manipulation at the beginning.

Another great way is to always duplicate your layers and work each step on a fresh layer. This way you can apply effects and try shit out. Putting multiple identical layers over each other allows you to work the transparency slider so the effects merge in the final collage. If you fuck something up, you always have your previous layer intact.
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>>429368
Not shitting on the guy, but the lighting is way off in the final design. I'd reduce the overall light in the image, as well as the transparency of the fog, making the chruch in the background darker and less visible. It should get some reflection of the light coming from the gun and explosion in the background, these two have almost no luminescence in the image. Light always has a source and the only two lightsources we can see in the image are not shining at all.

Just noticed I'd be better to show you what I mean instead of describing it. Note, I am not a professional photo editor, I'm just a hobbyist and did this in 2 minutes. First turn down the brightness and saturation, then with a low opacity rubber remove the area around the light sources so the brighter background shines through. Select with lasso areas that you want to change the saturation/color of, as indicated by light sources. That's basically it.
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>>429411
>the final design
That's an example of the end work wanted by FW/GW, the company. Note that those images are mean to work also as ads for the minitures, so usually they make sure the tanks and characters are well lit to draw attention to them, even if it's technically innacurate.
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>>429411
These are the layers. As I said, it's nowhere near a clean job, I just shit this together in 2 minutes to show you what I mean. If you take your time and work out the distances for the light, make it nice, bright up all the surfaces it hits, fine tune the colors etc. you will have a much nicer result. Basically reduce the overall luminosity of the "sun"/camera light to make it diffused as fuck (especially when taking pictures, same goes for textures in video games you photograph, make sure it's a cloudy day so you don't have bright/dark spots on the result you have to edit out later, which is a pain in the ass). Then figure out your light sources, make them shine by removing the "darker" layer on top and give them some color. If your image is not bright to begin with, then you can do the same for shadows. Add shadows opposite of light sources, darkening all areas that are not hit by light. Work in smooth transitions, use the opacity slider! Wide soft brushes with low opacity (5-20%) are your friend. It takes many many strokes, but the result is much finer and thus more realistic.

Imo your sharpness/blur can be off, the paintjob on your models can be rough, but as long as the lighting is on point it will still look good.
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>>429412
I see. I'd supplement the scenery with some form of believable light source then though, such as an arch with lamps on it where the models stand/move under. The example given is just overall too bright.

https://youtu.be/cZc6cr6G2E4?t=105
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>>429414
>believable light source
it's a common trick in art, videogames and cinema to add light to the faces of characters/important objects to make they stand over the background. The idea is that an image tells a story, so the eyes must be drawn to what's important. The realism of it is secondary (unless you're Kubrick doing Barry Lindon or something), and even a dark image must have contrast or becomes just confusing.
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>>429415
You can highlight faces, yes. But overlighting the whole image as in the reference is just bad work.
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>>429415
Really you only need the contrast and saturation to look consistent, you could straight up have something be lit from the wrong direction relative to the rest and if everything else is right you hardly notice
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>>429055
I use photoshop instead of gimp but looking at the interface, it looks very similar in structure. I don't know how knowledgeable you are in gimp, so start from the fundamentals. How layers work, what are the differences between blending changes like opacity and fill, how to cut desired shapes out of an object (hair for example). If gimp brushes are anything like photoshop brushes, definitely pay attention, because an unique brush can solve many of your problems. Start with small things and progress into filters and masks, curves, balance, transform modes.

How I would approach this: take a photo in a desired pose and angle against contrasting background (striking blue, white) in a well lit room with additional light source (lamp) pointed at the figure. It's easy to remove a single color that's not part of the object. Then I would add my background and alter it with filters very slightly to match the same style the figures have. Then I would create a layer between the figure on top layer and background on bottom layer, eyedrop skin color or other prominent color from the figure and paint the layer with it, then do a blending change of the layer to alter the bottom background color very slightly to match it to the figure. Then I would paint with soft edges and maybe with asymmetrical brush around the figure in a new layer and do a blending change to make the painting barely visible (unnoticeable for anyone who doesn't know it's there). Do the same thing for explosions. Then I would merge all layers as a new layer while keeping all the layers intact, the new merged layer on top, apply filters to it to again transform the style of the picture slightly but now with everything, including the figure.

Youtube is your friend.
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>>429409
>>429413
>>429414
>>429434
>>429512
Thanks anons!
This has been very helpful.
I do believe that the process is more simpler than I am overthinking it to really be.
>but
Sometimes simplicity can also be more labor taxing than complexity due to having less room for error when it comes to simplistic designs.
>LGS still hasn't opened up. So I can't use their battlefield terrains.
I've dicked around with GIMP before but this is the first time I've ever tried something "challenging" to turn a picture of a tabletop game in progress into one of those ForgeWorld diorama pictures.
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>>429592
The work will be properly cutting out explosions and objects and doing correction of color balance/exposure/vibrance/saturation/brightness/sharpness or blur to match the plastics with the background. This is really basic stuff so don't worry, you'll get it in no time. Look for something like "image" in the top menu, everything should be there. Always make layer copies and hide them so you can go back even if your history goes past the limit.

After getting used to it start renaming layers and organizing them into groups. Familiarize yourself with adjustment layers (pic related). Same function as the above list (color balance, etc.) but faster and nondestructive.
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>>429650
Thanks! I'll look into installing a modded GIMP with the Photogimp addon to get ready for using PS or PS Elements I overcome being afraid viruses from pirating.

I am aware of naming layers and copying to the point of it looking a bit excessive. I think I had one gimp file reach a gigabyte of data due to it. I am going to guess that functions such as "layers" have been an industry standard in photographic manipulation so has the industry learned of a tried and tested technique for layer naming?

Or is it just better to have a set of names based on preference and what the layer's purpose is and have a notepad in the same folder the file is saved in to sort of remind one of what each layer is like I did when I was using photoshop when concerned about grades instead of dicking around with the software back when I was in high school?
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>>429806
I don't name every layer, just key points and the layers under it typically have something to do with that layer. Or I put them all in a group. I don't know about industry standards, maybe within inhouse projects they use keywords to navigate the work more quickly. I use literal descriptions on my projects, e.g. "head shadow left" or "correction right eye" or "truck window reflection".

1GB? I don't think it's because of layer names, even layer 1, layer 2 etc. are unique names. That's a huge resolution, many channels, many many layers thing, but I have no idea about gimp's file system. Also why don't you just get photoshop? CS whatever or CC22 depending on your PC? Remember, pirating adobe products is not morally wrong ever since they started fucking everyone with forced subscription. They are making huge profits on the pro scene anyway. You can always go back to gimp whenever you want, by the looks of it they are very similar.
>>
>>429806
https://rutracker.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6189971
>>
>>429858
Seems like a glowie post.
If it isn't a glowie link how many layers of protection besides common sense do I need to prevent my PC getting digital aids?
>>
>>430558
I heard virtual machines are easy to set up and use and will protect you from almost everything if you do it right
>>
>>429055
Does anybody by any chance know what this kind of kino style is called?
Is there even a term for this kind of editing so I can find tutorials for it besides asking here?

This style of editing miniatures and by proxy scale models (can't quite find scale model pics photoshopped to look like combat photos) is very kino.
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>>431069
One content creator calls it a "paintover"
https://twitter.com/artistsempire
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okWM-A9ThSQ
Not a Warhammer work but still the same idea and similar style.
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>>429093
No idea, I call it 'wee guy battle photos'. I had an interview for an illustrator job with forge world which I got by photobashing photos of models they sent me. I think I thought a bit too much outside the box for my portfolio though and it occurred to me after I should have at least done a few more of what they set me in the first place instead of zero, but to be fair as you say this literally doesn't even have a name so it's not like I'd ever thought of doing it before. Been thinking about doing it for fun now too though
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>>429368
This was the task I was set to get the interview, I did two that I don't have to hand. One on a burning battlefield with a warhound behind them and one on an ocean world with moons behind them. I just used samsung sketchbook for everything and passed that stage.

The effects in that one you've shown look like they were done with MS paint and he didn't even get rid of the bases
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>>431614
>samsung sketchbook
Can you break down the process and the effects/filters you used in samsung sketchbook so I can take a look over at GIMP or Krita in replicating them then?
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>>429093
>>431069
>>431538
I think the better term is photobashing like >>431613 says. Essentially it seems to me that it is just taking multiple photos and merging them together to make a new kind of photo. I guess the simulated lighting and blurring along with merging the pictures together in getting it right then smoke, explosions, fire, and embers come in.
>>431613
What was the general process of making such images? Was there a company given PDF like an anon alleged existed and was leaked?
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>>429055
/toy/ might be helpful. There's a such a thing as "Toy photography" and some of the stuff is pretty good.
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>>429377
>>431886
Just remembered this thread when browsing Gunpla.

It might be properly spelled "dejirama" or at the very least that's what I've seen on pixiv. Search "#dejirama" and you'll see a lot more examples of toy photography heavily photoshopped to make the toys look like they are in action and part of the scenery.
https://www.pixiv.net/en/artworks/86989913
I wish I knew what filters or effects were used for this one.



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