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>>2683175
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Debating an flsun3d superracer, coming from an ender 3 v2

Is this a good choice? Neither i nor anyone i personally know is experienced with delta printers, what issues should i be aware of that are specific to them?

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>>2683172
Ok, and? Looking up some wrong bend radius can happen. However multiple times and posting about it? That's some "why bother" level and should be laughed at.

>>2683175
>got three images in the OP
heh

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>>2683175
Anycubic Mega S anon here, got an unexpected Mega (without S, but apparently there's not much difference) donor board, otherwise just a new Meanwell PSU. Pic rel first print, prototype Gravitron. Honestly, i expected way worse. Not much, but mine.

>>2683190
i have 3 as well

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Born to print
Forced to sand

Am I being overly paranoid in not printing overnight? I feel like at the end of the day it's still a machine imported from china with god knows what kind of quality control.

>>2683195
Based
Anycubic Mega should have been kept in the OP under destitute tier

>buy a printer
>print inserts for a boardgame
>no idea what else to print

>>2679762
No yeah I understand why they're printed at a mild distance but prusaslicer's now raising them so high they're not adhering at all

is PIR insulation supposed to look like styrofoam? I'm a retard who knows fuckall about insulating materials and when I tried asking the workers at the shop they all had no idea what PIR even was so I just grabbed a slab of it from the pallet labeled as it
I'm just concerned about it gassing when printing PETG

>>2683503
print mildly useful shit like clamp-on cupholders for your board game room
that's what I do

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>>2683448
You need to do the quality control nigga, if you bought a Chinese printer and haven't gone through and reviewed it, it may well be a fire hazard. Simple stuff like ferrules on connectors, big mistakes like not having thermal runaway protection enabled, fire safety with printers is a big deal and there are shitloads of resources that'll help you make sure your printer isn't a fucking tinderbox.

>>2683506
Yup, looks like a white or off-white fine grain foam, almost always with a backing/liner on one or both sides.

bought more filament to fix my hideous pokeball

>>2683517
Bought more filament just so it can sit in a box for weeks now without me printing anything.

>>2683503
there is so much boardgame shit you can design and print. I finally made a market stack/container for Village. I print a lot of first player markers as the game provided ones are usually shit. Made a few card/deck boxes but generally I just use cardstock. Making custom meeple/resources like the bullets and bulldozers from 51st state. I could spend a year just going through my games and making and printing QoL shit for each.

>>2683519
And then you got to print and you have X color in Y filament but not in what you need? I've been loving ABS shit but I'm down to two rolls of black, some doll/skin peach and teal ASA. idk whether to get more white or just print a ton of mostly black shit to burn it out so I can switch back to PLA.

Thingiverse seems like a shithole lately, if I want to get paid nickles and dimes occasionally for my utility stls where should I designfag these days?

>>2683528
Printables, enter every contest with low effort remixes, earn free filament. Cults steals money from creators and bans you when you ask where your money is, so they're hot garbage. Thingiverse has always been garbage, the recent injection of effort did nothing to change that. Thangs also does contests, sort of, and their rewards program is generous.

>>2683528
>lately
it's been shit for like 4+ years now, ever since they did away with the old format, started jewing extra hard with advertising, and putting it on life support mode with next to no moderation/technical support.

Maybe a bit outside printing, but do any of y'all have any good learning resources on properly measuring out real world objects and converting them into models? I have a fairly odd shaped bracket that I'd like to replicate/modify.

Never used calipers before or anything, but it's more than a simple box, got curves and the like.

>>2683546
post pic. I measure and guess then print a 1.2mm silhouette or test cross section and adjust as needed. It's often 6 generations or more to refine, but I keep shit simple and quick to print until putting it all together.

The other method I know of is to take a pic with a ruler then basically trace the shit and scale it.

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>>2683175
>Curious about Prusa XL and its 5head system
>Find some videos about it
>Looks pretty cool. Decide to see what others think in the comments
>People can't shut the fuck up about Bambu instead of discussing the actual machine
I have an X1C too and it's a nice machine but Jesus, people weren't joking when they were saying they will become 3D printing Apple.

>>2683570
thank fuck I'm on the right side of history for a change.

>>2683526
I could print that kind of stuff, but then I'd want to have some cool filament colors etc. instead of just black generic PLA.

>>2683584
they have this new thing here where you can exchange money for goods and services such as a truck coming to your door with filaments that aren't black.

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What's the most coomer thing you've 3d printer? Now that I live alone I can really have some weird shit around my home

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>3d print a mold with sprues etc
>Make a cast of said mold
>Do steps 3 through 75 to turn that mold into one that can be used for casting steel
>Cast steel into mold
>Take casting out, heat treat using induction forge to required spec
>Machine finished piece into the required dimensions, as any molds made with this process would likely warp a considerable amount and said molds would probably need to be specifically designed to avoid massive warping
>You can now produce almost any steel part you'd ever need, and probably sell niche old car/gun parts for a decent profit

Is this already a thing people do? I mean it seems obvious enough to me that I'd be surprised if it isn't.

>>2683709
Resin printers do have casting positive materials available, and the rules for geometry adjustments are going to be the same as conventional investment or sand casting.

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I have decided it's time to get a new printer.
My Makergear M2 reached like 6-7 years old.
I mean it's still printing okay.
But it requires a little maintenance every now and then.
P1S woo woo

>>2683712
Huh, I assumed if it was that easy I'd have heard about people doing it by now.

>>2683718
Kek that's my address thanks for the free printer fucko

>>2683740
YOU'RE THE SON OF A BITCH STEALING MY WIFI MOTHER FUCKER

>>2683734
It's not super common for hobbyists, but the math is nothing all that special.

>>2683709
Just modify your printer to do ECM or EDM instead. Way cheaper. From what I’ve seen, you can make an EDM setup from an ender 3 with like $50 worth of stuff, including a scrap microwave oven transformer rewound to output 60-120V. If you’re in a 120VAC country I even saw some guy just using rectified mains, but that’s a bit too scary for me. The rest is just a high-power resistor (coil of nichrome in a bucket of water, or maybe a printer’s heated bed) and a high-power MOSFET with triggering MCU. Inductive methods look a little nicer.

>>2683771
>scrap microwave oven transformer
>I even saw some guy just using rectified mains, but that’s a bit too scary for me.
I promise the microwave oven transformer is much, much more dangerous than playing with mains voltage.
Don't play with microwave oven transformers.

>>2683771
Wait... Could you use a big fuckin laser for that? I just so happen to have access to a monstrously powerful laser laying around at my buddy's shop we haven't had a practical use for. It's big enough it would probably need at least a 240 line installed in the shop, no idea where he found it.

Or would a laser be too destructive/not as precise as ECM/EDM

>>2683782
That depends on the laser. CO2 doesn't produce the right wavelengths to cut metal.

>>2683784
Guess I'll have to give it a closer look, I don't really recall any details about it except that it's allegedly extremely strong and about the dimensions of a Pringles can but I think a bit longer.

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>>2683784
>>2683786
Turns out I had a picture saved, been trying to find a use for this thing for a while.

My ender 3 v2 shorted and repairing it would cost me as much as a new printer

I now have a conundrum, though

Im willing to throw down some money for a good delta like a v400, but I think i should wait until black friday. In the meantime, should i get another v2, a v3 ke, or one of the other <=$300 options? Probably will sell whatever i get once i buy a v400

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>>2683494
It definitely feels like a tank in the best way. The only mayor negative about it so far was adjusting with machinist cube/angle being a bitch. Overall there seems to be a lot of potential towards a tanky 10mm rods prusa killer version, like SV06plus. Makes one wonder why they dropped the design all together.

>>2683448
>>2683510
Checked every crimp and cap before turning on. Still didn't trust chink PSU.

>>2683694
you should print that springy doll thing from the 2nd episode of boku no pico

>>2683773
>I promise the microwave oven transformer is much, much more dangerous than playing with mains voltage
You cut out the old 2kV winding and replace it with a lower voltage winding. Ditch that paranoia.

>>2683782
While a pulsed laser (e.g. Nd:YAG, Nd:glass, erbium doped fibre, anything Q-switched) could provide the peak power for evaporating metal, a common 50W CO2 tube wouldn't really be able to touch metal. A higher-power one like is used industrially could cut sheet metal, but couldn't easily cut multiple cm, and wouldn't be able to carve out precise blind pockets. Regardless of laser type the focal length of a laser is quite limiting. Even if you can vary the focus of the laser as you go, it would be hard to get a precise depth. But it is definitely possible to connect mirrors on your gantry to pipe a large laser's beam to the mobile end of a 3D printer, which might be more than enough if you make it a 5/6-axis setup.
Try to find out what sort of laser it is.

EDM is famously precise though, a good setup can get single micron surfaces.

>>2683771
>>2683773
Found the vid. Pretty straightforward given most of the work is already done for you.
https://youtu.be/5CeCxkFVCdM

>>2683836
I thought delta fad is already over due to common kinematic fuckery. Why jump on now?

>>2683842
>>2683821

>>2683821
What got damaged, did the main board get fed 24V?

>>2683842
Yeah that's the video that taught me how cheap and easy it is to build. But his circuit is kinda shitty (200Ω pullup resistor for FET driving lmao), and unreasonably expensive. The cheap 60-120VDC PSU from a modified MOT or whatever makes it a lot cheaper. Using a length of nichrome wire in a bucket of water is cheaper than a custom resistor PCB.

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Anyone help me out? In pic related I have the little led mini flashlight, however, the handle (black and range) someone made a model similar to it for those mini led and I cannot find the fucking model anywhere, I have tried os many fucking phrases spent 5 hours searching for it. IDK why I am but its pissing me off how it not showing up under the most FUCKING OBVIOUS NAMES FOR IT!!!

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>>2683694
A TPU bust with infill modifiers so that the tits would be around 10% while the body is aroind 40%.
Finding a bust that had squishable looking tits that didn't look like hell to print was near impossible for some reason though, so i had to settle for this slightly shitty one.

>>2683858
Have you tried using english?

>>2683858
I don't understand your writing, isn't the handle just the bottle? If you don't have the handle, you don't have the glue in the first place. You can buy refills.

If it's a model of the LED part you want, try searching for "LED keychain light" on thingiverse

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>>2683844
Ah, that's what annoyed me back then. Yeah, it's quite a neat project, maybe even a useful one, but i don't really have to space for it. Hopefully it'll catch on a bit so we may see EDMs in makerspaces and such.

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>>2683926
someone made a model that acts like the handle so you can hold it closer to glue that cures under UV.

>>2683860
You might be better off making a mold out of PLA and filling it with silicone. The extra materials may cost a bit more, but it would be easier to print and your end result would be more squishy.

>>2683842
Deltas look cooler

>>2683821
>ender 3 v2 shorted
cmon buddy we're gonna need more info than that
what really happened? it aint gonna short itself

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>>2683989
I absolutely could, but
1) i dont want to deal with molding and its materials
2) i was bored and wanted to put the TPU spool i borrowed to some interesting use
If i had more of it i would probably make it a bigger size, but right now my machine's MCU literally starts throwing sparks when it's on despite me resoldering the connector 3 times so that will have to wait.
I am planning to replace the hair stand on this little midna next to make it springy and somewhat akin to a bobblehead once the new board arrives though, so that will have to wait.

Any recommendations for an enclosure for a MK3S+? Right now I am looking at either the Tukkari TLX or a Next Gen Safety Enclosure. The Original Prusa Enclosure and PrusaBox seem overpriced for what they are. Am I missing something?

>>2684062
I know Printed Solid Cases from Ultimaker machines back then. They are indeed pretty solid. However, why not make one yourself? Can be done cheaper, or having it's size just right.

>>2683175
Finished upgrading my Ender 3 for now, I want to try a DIY printer. Should I try to build a Panda Mini?

>>2683709
Commonly done with aluminum. Steel is a bit too spicy for most people.

holy shit what happened to these threads
I check in after two years and it's slow as molassas.
Did people just get printers for the coof?

>>2684013
Power surge and i wasnt smart so it wasnt on a surge protector

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Well a certain someone (The Next Layer) accidentally released a video early, and we've now seen what Bambu is working on.
Exactly as predicted, it's a new, smaller, cheaper printer, the Bambu A1 Mini, and a new AMS specific to it. "Fast" bed-slinger, linear rails, bullshit nobody cares about, $469 with the new AMS. New AMS is adorable and I love it.

>>2684233
It's not actually the first we've seen of the printer, it's just the first preview/review video, released a day early and since removed.

>>2684233
>kingroon make a bambu clone
>bambu make a kingroon clone
Pottery

>>2684270
KLP1 is a mess though. Are you suggesting the A1 will be as well?
Gotta say i like the wide rail on Y and the mini AMS is quite ambitious, but given KP3S Pro V2 sitting at $279, i just don't see it for most users.

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>>2684233
>new ams
>vast improvement, no 30second wait to change color
keking at the rich fucks that bought multiple bambus with multiple ams

>>2684062
The Creality 17.5"x22.2"x 27" enclosure fits pretty well.

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>>2684275
>Are you suggesting the A1 will be as well
No it's probably marginally better, but I imagine it will be in the same speed class as a k3ps pro. Even if the bambu has an accelerometer for input shaping and the kingroon lacks it, it would still be cheaper to mod that into the kingroon.

>AMS
If I understand correctly, it's 4 seperate bowden "extruders" feeding into a single direct-drive extruder. That bowden extruder hardware seems pretty straightforward to replicate and nearly compatible with the kind of marlin configs used for a bowden multi-filament printer like the CRX, so I'm guessing the hard part is in the engineering of the hot end and its direct extruder. I assume it would be optimal to have an actuator to automatically open the gears on the extruder, both at the hot end and at each roll. What's prusa's system like in comparison?

Also not too fond of that mini AMS design, since it would be comparatively hard to install in a filament drying enclosure. Not that you'd be making large or otherwise slow prints with such a printer.

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What the fuck is going on here? No problem sanding it down, but i'm concerned it occurring systemically. Extruder problem, maybe?

>>2684305
Retraction problem. Lower temps, faster travels, tune your retraction length, retraction speed, deretraction speed, the usual stuff to combat ooze. This is a small amount of ooze from the nozzle being deposited as it approaches the piece. Those bits of ooze stack on eachother, each one catching the next, causing these little structures that stick up and away from the part.

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>>2684306
Thanks, anon! It was so symmetrical, i almost wondered if it's any lost support bridge setting i may have missed in the slicer. Gonna do some filament runs again when my new nozzle arrives.

>>2684233
Hope that AMS is compatible with the other Bambu printers. I only want to switch between 2 materials, hopefully this lil negro is cheap. Best would be a Bambu toolchanger printer.

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tfw A1 review breaks and 80% of people who got one are basedface memetubers.
>$299 for A1
>$249 for AMS Lite
>$459 as combo
>Lite doesn't work with prior Bambu printers
>usual 180x180
>comes with camera
>easy to swap hotend
>better touchscreen than P1S, worse than X1
>(apparently actually well working) active noise cancelation
>Lite has an input sensor, so feeding is similar to Mk3/4 or Orbiter plus sensor
>comes with a mystery box. Read an initial starter project like a 3D printed mouse, lamp kit or similiar
>A1 Plate bed adhesion is quite meh. Bedslinger knockover common issue
>Lite works quicker than old AMS
>Lite still produces lots of waste
>Bambu also releases Makerworld today. Read Printables, but for Bambu. Enforces 3MF as default. "Print" integration seems much more straightforward than on Printables
Looks like a fitting addition to their ecosystem and is probably work for normies, light prototyping and small show pieces. That said, it's still a locked down, tinkering somewhat discouraged. Pretty much what was expected.
Big however; i don't think it is the big KP3S killer some people thought or hoped it's gonna be. Frankly I wouldn't even recommend it unless you're really into multicolor on small scale or a typical Applefag, like Bambu is aiming at.

>>2684371
where does it poop?

>>2684371
>a typical Applefag
Can't blame people who buy a printer and expect it to print.
I'm not on any printer makers payroll and I'm not fixing their machine for free.
Simple as.

Minor rippling bumps when using concentric layers. Over extrusion? Only happens past a certain diameter.

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>>2684437
Fuck me.

>>2684438
Now that I look at this somewhere that has decent lighting and see the voids in the rippling, is this extruder skipping? There is a section on the ring that has no errors, looks like exactly 90 degrees.

>>2684406
They're trying to create an vertically integrated ecosystem so people buy a Bambu as their first printer, their second printer, they use the Bambu website for models and Gcode to print on their Bambu printer using BambuSlicer and Bambu filament, and they only ever know anything about Bambu machines and are left virtually incapable to switching to any other printer because the majority of what they know doesn't apply outside of the tight-knit Bambu ecosystem. Are you getting it now? Probably not, given your response to the word Applefag, I'm assuming you're an Applefag, you go to Steve Jobs grave the suckle his calcaneus because you just love spending money so much, you only ever bought Prusa before and now you'll only ever buy Bambu because Bambu is just so comfy in how you don't have to, or get to, think while you use it.

>>2684438
wtf am I looking at? can you post a pic of the model so I can tell what you're trying to achieve? none of that looks normal to me outside of the tall cylinder in the middle
just by going from what is evident I suppose your filament might be shit

>>2684451
It's a 60mm to 65mm spring spacer. It's just a flat ring with a 5mm inner cylinder. This is with abs but I'll try it with some pla I have.

>>2684455
it's supposed to be flat? might be that your print is not sticking to the bed. that is a common problem with that kind of warping round the edges. post a side view. also going by
>There is a section on the ring that has no errors, looks like exactly 90 degrees.
that sounds like your bed might not be leveled.

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>>2684457
Definitely fully adhered, I can only pry it off after the bed cools. This only started happening after printing 4 of the same ring. It's a p1p so I usually just let it do the auto bed leveling. It looks superficial but I'm just worried about the layer adhesion.

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>>2684233
>>2684371
I wanted to build a small printer on my own and now they just released a 300$ printer that's better at everything but top speed printing right out of the box
I feel cheated.
I still want to build my 500$ panda mini though

>>2684450
I'm upgrading from an 8-year old Makergear M2 anon.
It doesn't even have a screen.

>>2684467
well, if you're sure you got those covered I'm stumped. the only other thing I can think of is the enclosure. I get bad results with ABS if I don't print with the door fully closed for the whole printing time

>>2684474
Well you just gave me an idea. The stupid door keeps slightly opening on this print due to the jerking. I've been meaning to replace the clasp magnets.

Going on reddit and just loving the tears.
People genuinely looked at a company that brings affordable, no-free labor required printers to the masses and they thought "They're going to make a printer for ME and the other 100 people who need huge fucking prints!!!!"
lmao@ur life
lmao
Gonna get an A1 for my mom

>>2683832
i3 business model: sell solid printer
Later business model: sell cheap printer, sell rollers again and again

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made some supportlessly printed chain, only needs the brim to keep them steady.
and it works perfectly, my first test print was at 4cm height for each link and came out great. Im gonna try and design some way to splice lengths together, or a way to be able to hook the chain directly to other prints.
then I want to design some hanging pots.

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>>2684480
pic rel. Let me guess, you're only acting retarded.

>>2684406
Yet you're wasting your time shilling for free, curious. It's not about printers just working, every Anycubic after 2020 got here, but the mindset of getting sucked into a single ecosystem and being fine with it. Prime example is indeed Apple, push innovation for some years and once your fandom piled up, milk and stagnate.

>>2684468
>now they just released a 300$ printer that's better at everything but top
>panda mini
I'm not sure why you're comparing a small PLA pusher to a small ABS pusher. Also with KP3S pro V2 being out already. I assume you're still the same Panda bro from prior threads, but i still suggest, once again, rather using aluminium cladding than Rolo's ABS walls.

Best <$300 printer? Please no manual leveling ive never been able to get the hang of it. Ender 3 v3 se maybe?

>>2684578
Purpose, size?

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>>2684575
>trusting chinks to be honest
I'm more surprised they kinda came clean about the no bed slingers thing with this,

>>2683694
some day I will print this
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naomi_Wu#/media/File:Naomi_%22SexyCyborg%22_Wu,_3D_Body_Scan.stl

>>2684580
2a stuff, 220x220x250 or larger, printing mostly pla+/pro

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So I got a bambu and im looking to sell my old printers to get some money back.

Got a CR-10s with
Microswiss All metal hotend +0.6 HS nozzle
Microswiss Direct Drive
Printed CF Nylon Stealthburner
Replaced stock board with a 2.2.1 Silent board
1x Garolite Bed
2x Creality brand Ultrabase knockoffs
1x Anycubic Ultrabase (from before they stopped selling parts for other printers)
Raspberry Pi 3B+ for octoprint
Creality Medium size tent enclosure

Unimportant mods:
CF Nylon Squash ball feet/Squash balls
2x 120mm fan mod for control box
Extensions for all wires to run the box outside the tent


Do you think $250-300 is too much to ask?

It runs reliably. I was mostly printing CF Nylon with it.
Then I have a Kywoo max:

Shitty 5015 Fan mod in nylon cause stock parts cooler was useless. (CF nylon wont melt)

Bed upgraded to Linear rails from linear rods.

Original Kywoo "ultrabase style" glass bed.
Magnetic smooth PEI bed on currently.
Upgraded to Kywoo all metal hotend
Upgraded to Kywoo dual gear extruder for the DD
TL Smoothers on the steppers
Again CF Nylon squash ball feet + balls
Raspberry Pi 3B+ with octoprint

Was thinking of asking $200-250 for this one.

I built it up to do better materials but only ever ran PLA through it.

Am I in the ballpark? Am I being too optimistic?

>>2684334
Someone emailed them and to ask this and they said it's not compatible with the P1 or X1 printers.

>>2684607
Sovol SV06 or Sovol SV06 on sale. Look for local used machines. Lots of people dump their machines after running out of inital projects.

>>2684621
As a Euro, this is hilarious.

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>>2684233
I have an autistic urge of reverse engineering this fucker without the AMS and making a faux-A1 just for the fun of it.
Anyone who bought it? Any intricate/unique details of its construction or operation you can share? I assume the worst parts to replicate would be the pseudolidar, connecting the original nozzle to the board, and the bed levelling system, but since on this unit the lidar is mounted on the axis - Some assembly of Rubedo could be fit just fine in there for that one.
Also would like to hear some funny name suggestions for it.

>>2684736
You gotta be over the age of 18 to post here.

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>>2684738
>Asking for technical info of the machine somehow means i am underage
Either you are a retarded schizo, or a salty bambu cocksucker.
>>2684736
Ok, so after digging for a bit the hotend assembly actually seems to just need to have the connector end snipped and it can fit into the CAN bus with no problem.
That leaves only the Rubedo assembly design and the bed levelling issue open.

>>2683175
>PETG
Some stringing but prints like a dream
>PLA
Prints like shit

Explain

>>2684932
what are your temps like?

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>tfw you nail the shrink factors for your annealed HTPLA parts
mini mill inbound, cunts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4wSH2HE6r8

Ordered the P1S with AMS

>>2685251
Why AMS?

>>2685290
I'm lazy and occasionally might print in two colors. It's 100 bucks more if ordered separate so I just pulled the trigger.

>>2685106
>HTPLA
That shit sounds like an oxymoron

>>2685106
>>2685297
Isn't it basically just another PLA+ anyway?

>>2685297
>>2685298
Close, but unannealed HTPLA is crap compared to PLA+. Once annealed, the heat deflection temp for HTPLA goes up to about 100C at very similar material properties relative to PLA+. You could get similar results with non-HT PLA blends, but your results will probably vary. HTPLA is formulated to behave predictably through the annealing process.

>>2685311
correction, the HDT goes up to 120C-140C

>>2684575
>pic rel.
https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/blog/new-3d-printers-are-way-faster/
>MK4 is faster than Bambu machines in actual prints

>>2685383
Shit-tier article made by retards that gives no actual information. The people who made the article had no real-world experience with 3D printing outside of developing articles like this one. It's misleading, ill-informed, and poorly written. Actual garbage.

>>2685387
>slice Benchy with stock quality settings
>check how long it takes to print, compare quality
This isn't rocket surgery, anon. Print times on these machines aren't secret. You can check estimated times in Bambu Studio and PrusaSlicer yourself.

>>2685398
>slice Benchy with stock quality settings
Really, when did they talk about settings? Oh they didn't, because it's a shit-tier article.

>>2685398
Okay let's check ourselves. They don't actually talk about settings at all in the article, you're just assuming because you're a retard.
Open up PrusaSlicer, all default, you'll notice they ran them with the "FAST" preset. Open BambuStudio, all default, oh they ran the Bambu on the "NORMAL" preset.
Seems fair, right?
Choose a fast preset in Bambu Studio and the ETA is now less than the quoted time for the Prusa.
Switch PrusaSlicer to a normal preset instead of the stupid fast one and the ETA is 48 minutes now, who would've thought?

Sorry about your mental disability, sounds rough.

China defense force in here.

>>2685413
It's not the printers, it's this retard >>2685383 sharing their retarded conclusion drawn from a badly written article.

>>2685383
>Toyota Tercel faster than Hellcat when Hellcat is driving slower than Tercel
implessive

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>>2684736
>>2684744
Well shit, turns out there was actually no lidar in the first place, i just mistook the waste chute for one.
I yhought it would, like, do a line on the left edge of the bed and move it instead of the scanner, but well, guess that just leaves finding out how to work with piezo sensors for the bed probing and tracing bambu parts in CAD to fit the chink components.

>>2685402
>Choose a fast preset in Bambu Studio and the ETA is now less than the quoted time for the Prusa.
And how does the quality compare with those settings? The comparison is speed at good quality, not at a slicer setting with a given name. And even with the "fast" MK4 vs the "normal" Bambu machines, the Bambu machines have problems that the MK4 does not (e.g. look at the profile of the smokestack).

>>2685439
>e.g. look at the stringing in all of the Prusa prints
Find some goal-posts and stick to 'em.

>>2685439
>The comparison is speed at good quality, not at a slicer setting with a given name.
When did they specify this in the article? Oh they didn't, you just pulled it out of your ass.

>>2685442
>both wet filament and part cooling reflect a printer's ability to print well at high speed
The point was to poke fun at the anon here >>2684575 seething about bedslingers. They have drawbacks, but so do coreXY machines, and performance comes down to implementation.

>>2685446
>wowie zowie, these new printers sure are fast
>how fast are they? here are some good-quality prints and how long it took to produce them
Speed comparisons for models (the subject of the article) is for a given quality. Because sacrificing quality defeats the point of a nice looking model, which is to look nice. That MK4 Benchy is both faster and better. Which would you rather use for producing a large run of models that need to look good? Which do you think would take longer to produce those? This is a practical concern with actually using 3D printers for making things rather than making the machine go BRRRR.

>>2685450
>wowie zowie, these new printers sure are fast
>how fast are they? here are some good-quality prints and how long it took to produce them
You didn't read the article, did you anon?

>>2685452
Do you want me to quote it at you?

>>2685454
It'd be better than writing your own article in defense of the one you didn't read. Of course, it'd be lacking, because it's a poorly written article with no substance that doesn't mention settings or the decisions made by the people who wrote it.

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I redid my PokeBall but I can't find the middle button but I don't want to take out the current black filament cause that's a pain in the butt.

>>2683178
I have had an SR for a bit over a year after upgrading from a CR10.
It had been entirely trouble free for me during this time.
Almost every single print game out great, and most prints are much faster than with bedslingers. Also, no bed leveling is a blessing.
Good:
- Looks awesome, deltas are absolutely mesmerizing to watch
- No manual bed leveling (provided glass surface is very flat)
- Nowadays you can use klipper with the printer with that flsun pad thingy
- It's much faster than bed slingers
- Extremely quiet

Only real 'downsides' (read: compromises):
- No flexibles because not direct drive
- Relatively large for the print volume (its very tall)
- Print volume is round, and suits cylindrical prints better than square ones.
- Enclosure costs extra

Recently upgraded to an X1C only for the capability of engineering grade materials, direct drive (for flexibles) and the enclosure (although I believe nowadays FLSun has an enclosure for the SR). Very much missing how quiet this printer was. Fans were pretty quiet, and the only real noise it made were those of the extruder motor during retractions.
I would highly recommend the printer, it is very well build. If I needed a printer in that price range there is no doubt in my mind I would pick it again.

>>2685484
Do it, finish it anon.

>>2685251
Based.
I haven't ordered the AMS yet.
I just can't think of anything I'd do with it that'd warrant the extra time, extra waste, and potential headaches. Bambu printers seem bulletproof until you factor in rare AMS issues.

I got an upgraded ender 3 for cheap because its previous owner couldn't figure out what was wrong
Are the limit switch wires supposed to be resistive or something? I haven't been able to get a consistent continuity test through any of them, even the ones that seem to be working

>>2685491
But then I'd have to cut the filament, heat up the nozzle and extrude it out cause it won't come out if I pull it.

>>2685545
heat it up THEN pull it out, then when you feed in the new stuff just give it a manual push to flush out the last tiny bits of black.

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>>2685558
Never mind I found the pieces laying around

>>2685485
>- It's much faster than bed slingers
Meaning what? How long does it take to print a Benchy (say)?

>>2685516
They should be normal wires. The switches themselves are normally-closed, so any break in the wire will make the printer think it’s at its limit. Look up to see what the symptoms of an unplugged limit switch is, I suspect the printer will throw fault codes.

If you flash a custom Marlin build, there’s an option to show limit switch positions as measured by the printer.

I assume you’re measuring continuity/resistance while the printer is off? The other method is to measure the voltage across the limit switch while the printer is on, which I think should be more reliable. Should be a solid 3.3V when the switch is pressed, and a flat 0V otherwise.

>>2685642
Yeah the wires were fucked. I was continuity testing the wires themselves after testing what the functionality of the limit switches was. Jury rigged up some wires with jumper wires and it's working now.

>>2685293
>it's 100 bucks more if ordered sperately
that's how they get you

>>2685750
Obviously. I still think it's nice to have.

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Go Pro case and dog collar attachment for my sister's doge.

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>>2685753

>>2685599
Waiting for its turn on the sanding machine.

>>2685753
Cute.

>>2685752
>>2685753
>>2685754
post dog

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>>2683175
I'm that retard whose Ender 3's heatbed shat the bed (lol). The new heatbed is a month away.
I want to temprarily fix the bed by re-soldering on the wires (cut and stripped them). My issue is that I'm not getting enough heat into the pads to melt the old solder. I mean the entire thing is just a big-ass heatsink (PCB-heatbed) so I guess it's futile to try to heat up the pads with a 60 watt soldering iron.

Now, I do have a 300 watt bench top power supply (30v/10A). Would it be a stupid idea to heat the bed with that and then add some additional heat with my iron to melt the solder? What diameter cable would I need to apply 10 amps?

>>2685840
Pre-heating may help but honestly shouldn't even be necessary. What kind of tip do you have on that soldering iron? Going to want a fat chisel tip so you can get a large contact area and transfer a lot of heat very quickly. If you do need to pre-heat the board, less is more, don't try to heat it quickly and don't try to get it hot as fuck, bring it up slowly, even 100C will make a huge difference. Peak draw from the heated bed is 10A @ 24V, the original wires are the size you need if you want to apply 10A, but I wouldn't even bother. You could safely supply a much lower current and still get it to the temperature needed, would only need about 2A. More so I wouldn't bother because a heat gun or hot plate would be better options in my opinion.

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>>2685802

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>>2685973
goodest boy/girl

>>2685840

Make sure you're making a proper heat bridge with fresh solder, directly apply solder to your iron as it is held against the old solder so there is kind of a solder drop bridging between the iron and the old solder on the bed. I mainly work on PCBs, but when I started I didn't really understand bridging and had trouble getting stuff to melt on even them. Bridge may not be the correct term, but I think I get my point across.

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>>2685934
>Pre-heating may help but honestly shouldn't even be necessary.
Thought the same
>What kind of tip do you have on that soldering iron?
Pointy tip, https://www.conrad.de/de/p/toolcraft-jls-03-loetkolben-230-v-60-w-bleistiftform-200-450-c-588269.html
>Going to want a fat chisel tip so you can get a large contact area and transfer a lot of heat very quickly
I currently have 0, zero, funds. I have to make due with what I got, I would've gotten a Pinecil and a PD Powerbank otherwise. I could "borrow" a gas fired soldering iron from work, but I want it done today.
>If you do need to pre-heat the board, less is more, don't try to heat it quickly and don't try to get it hot as fuck, bring it up slowly, even 100C will make a huge difference.
>Peak draw from the heated bed is 10A @ 24V, the original wires are the size you need if you want to apply 10A, but I wouldn't even bother.
Noted
>You could safely supply a much lower current and still get it to the temperature needed, would only need about 2A. More so I wouldn't bother because a heat gun or hot plate would be better options in my opinion.
I've got aligator clips that are rated up to 3A sitting next to me, I'll try the other Anon's trick with bridging some solder first and then give it a try.
>>2686002
I understand what you mean, pic rel is what I'm working with

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Dear Gentlemen,
I have a question, and it's my first time on this board, so please no bully.

I have a old car, which has a similar phone mount as pic related.
it's old, and it worked with old Nokia Phones, which nobody has any longer in any case, and even they were still on the market, they are obsolete.
So, instead, what I use is a MagSafe thing, which is attached through the vents.
My problem is that I now have "two" phone holders: the magsafe one, which is magnetic and goes into my iphone, and the old one for the old nokia phone.
I have no idea where to start, but my idea would be to 3d print something that I could plug into the old mount, and attach the magsafe mount to it.
Can anyone tell me where to even start, I have no idea what to do, but I got a lot of free time at hand
thank you

>>2685973
Good dog.

>>2686040
Are you European?

>>2686040
Why not just remove the old phone mount and screw a new custom mount in its place? Then you don't have to worry about prototyping something that will fit the old one.

>>2686052
yes
>>2686053
i could do that, but I also want to use this as an opportunity to learn

>>2686040
What make, what model, what cunt

>>2685789
Can I do the acetone thing

>>2686063
wv touareg 2006

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>>2685840
>>2685934
>>2686002
>>2686031
fuck

>>2686067
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2464375
I think you get the gist of it, you'll probably have to disassemble the thing, take measurements, use some CAD to design a new part, print it, build it.

DO NOT PRINT IT IN FUCKING PLA UNLESS IT IS HIGH TEMP PLA, YOU WILL FUCK SHIT UP HARDER THAN ME MY LAST RELATIONSHIP, AT LEAST USE PETG, ABS OR CF NYLON WOULD BE BETTER.

REPEAT: DO. NOT. USE. POLY-LACTIC-ACID (PLA).

>>2686075
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2464375
>I think you get the gist of it, you'll probably have to disassemble the thing, take measurements, use some CAD to design a new part, print it, build it.
>DO NOT PRINT IT IN FUCKING PLA UNLESS IT IS HIGH TEMP PLA, YOU WILL FUCK SHIT UP HARDER THAN ME MY LAST RELATIONSHIP, AT LEAST USE PETG, ABS OR CF NYLON WOULD BE BETTER.
>REPEAT: DO. NOT. USE. POLY-LACTIC-ACID (PLA).
you're awesome dude !
thank you.
This is exactly what I needed to get me started. (and also the tips about what not to use, I was going to use PLA lol)
THANK YOU

>>2686078
Sure thing Anon. PLA would just melt into a puddle in the sun, that's why you don't use it in cars.

>>2686056
You've picked the wrong project for it then. You are going to have a tough time getting accurate measurements.
Start by trying to get measurements and figure out the precise locations of each locating feature and the clip.

>>2685455
>>wowie zowie, these new printers sure are fast
>https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/blog/new-3d-printers-are-way-faster/
>new-3d-printers-are-way-faster/
>A New Batch of 3D Printers Can Print Models in Half the Time

>>how fast are they? here are some good-quality prints and how long it took to produce them
>A New Batch of 3D Printers Can Print Models in Half the Time
>Models (not speedboats, not calibration prints, not structural parts, but things that need to look good or there's no point)
And that's before even getting to the actual article text.

>Some of these new printers can cut print times in half
>we’re excited by the results we’ve seen from printers with input shaping.
>Test 1: Great baseline performance (that is, they all used settings that produce a good quality Benchy - as you would for models)
>times to produce good quality Benchy
>Test 2: Blemished brontosaurus bellies (all the printers struggled to produce good results on the severe overhang of this more challenging print)
>times to produce the brontosaurus model
>Test 3: A torturous overhang test (test model focused on fine details, bridges, and overhangs)
>times to produce the test print

>While these were fun tests to get a feel for the machines, our full testing procedure is quite a bit more rigorous.
>Nevertheless, our initial tests have shown that all three of these new machines are capable of faster printing than anything we’ve recommended in the past, so we wanted to share these results as soon as possible.

So yeah, that was an accurate characterization on my part. Have anything more to say?

>>2686091
Which material won't melt into a puddle like a piece of crap

>>2686106
he said:
> AT LEAST USE PETG, ABS OR CF NYLON WOULD BE BETTER.
I'm gonna go with ABS I think.

>>2686092
thx, I will use it as a learning opportunity.
and yes, I will have to take measurements and all, but this post >>2686075
is like half the work already done for me

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>why spend money on a Bambu
>Just get a K1 M-ACKS!

>>2686117
ASA would be preferable for its UV resistance.

>>2686142
Pretty sure car windows block UV. Even if not, it's cheaper to just paint ABS, rather than spend twice as much per kg of ASA.

>>2686068
Fuck, sorry to hear it anon.

>>2686095
You're literally adding text between the lines so it fits your narrative, I just assumed you gave up the way you should have by this point but this is so pathetic it's beginning to lose flavor, I actually feel bad for you.

>>2686135
I hate today's onions youtube so much, it's unreal.

>>2686144
But then you'd need a spray gun, or some other stupid excuse. ASA it is.

>>2686068
Shit happens. At least you gave it a good go.

>>2686135
Just Creality Things™

>>2686165
>a spray gun
ever heard of a brush?

>>2686165
damn chang, chill.

>>2686183
Look at that retarded YouTuber's face. Yes, the design of the machine is bad, but he did it intentionally.

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>>2686192
>but he did it intentionally
Anon a gentle breeze would have opened that door.
The hinges are pathetic.

>>2686155
>You're literally adding text between the lines so it fits your narrative
Because you apparently needed help with reading comprehension. Now that I've walked you through the article, do you actually disagree with anything I've said? If so, please quote it and say what you disagree with.

>>2686144
>it's cheaper to just paint ABS
Depends on how much your time is worth.

>>2686144
>Pretty sure car windows block UV.
They do. My Transitions glasses don't darken while driving.

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>>2686144
>Pretty sure car windows block UV.
Depends on the window and frequency in question. Most car windows block most UV that matters for plastic degradation, but most don't block everything. This may or may not matter. Black ABS? Probably not. Other colors would be more vulnerable.

>>2686183
>>2686196
Ok, nigger.

>>2686168
>brush
Jokes aside, the worst option. Just dunk it at this point.

>>2686291
>Just dunk it
That requires having bought enough paint to dip the whole thing. Also the entire thing will be UV resistant except for the point from which you held it, then the phone holder will snap off during the Battle of Troy when a poisoned sun-ray hits that spot.

>>2685630
>Meaning what? How long does it take to print a Benchy (say)?
I don't print benchies or useless objects. I use my printer for functional parts.
However, compared to that CR10 I saw speed gains of up to 3x.

Just for you I have done a quick comparison as I still had cura on my machine.
If I slice an airduct/cooler shroud I designed (relatively tall, large part), I get:
9h41m with CR10S
4h29m with FLsun SR
2h10m with the X1C*

For a self designed leatherman wave holder (smaller part with more details and retractions, and support):
4h22m with CR10S
2h15m with FLsun SR
1h32m with the X1C*

For the open alpha headphone left cup + 1x baffle (so two parts 1 build plate):
8h14m with CR10S
3h26m with FLsun SR
1h32m with the X1C*

* Note that the print settings for the CR10 and SR are identical, for the X1C I use a different slicer with slightly different settings

You can download the slicer settings yourself from the FLSun website, and compare them to get an idea. Their default settings for speed and accel work pretty well. If anything holds back the speed, its the flow of the hotend, as the kinematics can go much faster I think. However, I have found the SR default speed out of the factory to be sufficient for most things.

>>2683175
Sorry to butt in but how do I git gud at freecad or 3d design in general? I'm trying to design a joystick assembly and its proving to be a pain. I've designed a few 3d enclosures for my electronics but nothing more.
I've never worked with my hands in my life so I lack the "3d thinking" so to say

>>2686331
If you're not on some freetard mission, you're probably better off using Fusion360, as there's way more resources out there. That said, if you really wanna go down the FreeCad path, OficineRobotica is usually regarded as the current goat for tutorials to get you started.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2w0BV_j5Mo

>>2686307
>>2686291
>>2686168
This hurt to read. Every ready hand UV coating comes as spray can already. What are you discussing about?

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It's... It's coming in today, right?
I don't have to use some of my 180 hours of PTO to stay home and wait for signature right?
I'm in north louisiana....
Jackson is like... right fucking there.....
UPS pls....

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>>2686331
If you want professional tools, consider CATIA, Solidworks or PTC Creo. I'm personally using CATIA for work and it's like the fighter jet swiss-army knife of CAD but it's a pain in the ass to learn. If you want something more user friendly and don't need some of the more advanced features that CATIA offers, consider Solidworks, Autodesk Inventor or something like that.

As I had your same issue, it all boils down to just do it. By watching tutorials and just trying to come up with my own designs, learning what tools made most sense and the tools the software offer for that, I got better. I'm far from being good now, but I can model some basic assemblies on my own now. It's all about the time you put in it.

TL;DR - Just do it

>>2686321
>Note that the print settings for the CR10 and SR are identical

pretty sure they are not, the Cr10 has something like 150/300 acceleration on y/x. the FLSun has 2800 and thats the main reason why there is such a huge difference in print speeds. (And the X1 is way beyond 10k).
a CR10 "can" run up to 3xxx acceleration depending on how its maintained and how good belt tension is (and if you have braces for the Z axis) but if you want some quality people usually stick under 3000 or you run klipper with input shaping.

>>2686469
>pretty sure they are not
They are, I was talking in terms of things like layer height/width, flow rate, infill ratio etc.
Of course the accel and speed settings are different, otherwise the speeds would be identical in the slicer.

The point is, these are the settings i used for real life parts, where I know I get similar or better quality with the SR compared to the CR10. This gives anon a bit of an idea how much faster an SR is in practice, compared to a 'regular bed slinger'

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Are those vertical lines my extruder crapping out or are those artifacts to be expected when you push your printer a little?

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is something like this will be okay?
or should i split my model to avoid future problems when printing?

>>2686535
just don't use the skirt?
or reduce skirt distance

>>2686535
Personally I would go for it. Like the other Anon said you can reduce the distance if you want to be sure it won't cause problems.
Also it's called a skirt, not a brim.

>>2686538
>reduce skirt distance
oh i forgot this setting exist
thanks anon

>>2686541
yea, thanks anon, i always mixed up the terms between them

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are there any companies you consciously support by buying their printers or filament anons? I'm curious

>>2686548
lol absolutely not
Got a BambuLab on the way 'cause really good and I'm gonna shove $10/roll bargain bin PLA+ through it

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tfw finally getting some hang out of FreeCAD, new feet for my keyboard.

Does anyone use orca slicers pressure advance feature. I dont have pressure advance on my printer and wanted to know if orca slicer could fill in the role there.

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Everything's square and tight, and yet everything's wrong with my printer.
I am at the end of my belts.
Even the supports show signs of under-extrusion. Like when transitioning between lines there's literally a hollow at the walls
Oh yeah it's a CR-10S 300, hatchbox PLA

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How come a previous job leaves a visible imprint on my part? I cleaned the plate with soap, but didn't reapply the glue. What do I do to make the front plastic be perfect? If not for that inprint, I would have been awesome.

> bambulab x1 carbon

>>2686628
To get it on your printer you need to build Marlin with linear/pressure advance enabled. Not sure what the process is with Klipper.

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>>2686625
Replacement next to original. Very satisfying click.

>>2686643
Look at that smudge. You didn't clean properly. Heck, you probably already know that. Going from a darker to brighter filament, there are no shortcuts for clean looking prints, except well using a new sheet.

>>2686625
>>2686650
>Freecad
Not bad, but don't get an aneurysm please.

Are there any tricks to printing a dome without supports? I'm trying to get a nice pokeball going but it just shits itself once it gets near the top, and for some reason it just fucking LOVES to break the supports whenever it gets close to the top. Do I just print it as a bowl and sand for days?

>>2686525
yeah you need linear acceleration tuning for the speed your using, that ringing is from the printer whipping around the corner

>>2685383
holy fuck shilling is the worst thing in the universe

The rc general just fucking died so I'll ask here, are there any actually good 3d printed rail designs for a rc train?
all I seem to find when I find for model rails is from train autists focused exclusively on how realistic it looks, I just want something cheap and easy to lay down, don't really care how it looks

What if I fill something with water as it's printing, will it break my printer?

>>2686729
If it's a bedslinger it will splash around and likely cause damage. Even if the bed is stationary it's not a good idea in any way. What are you trying to do?

>>2686731
Nothing in particular, I'm just making tiny boats and I thought of filling it with something other than solid infill at the bottom, I'll guess I'll just glue a few coins to it

>>2686732
You can put solid objects mid-print if your model has the appropriate cavity and you set up a pause on the layer just below its ceiling. It was the "conductive liquid" part of your idea that didn't work.

>>2686733
I see, I'm gonna put a penny mid print and test how that works

>>2686483
>They are, I was talking in terms of things like layer height/width, flow rate, infill ratio etc.
And I was asking about print time at equal print quality for the same part, as commonly evaluated on a Benchy. There isn't a single speed that all bedslingers operate at for a given quality of output. That article above indicates that, for example, a Prusa MK4 is faster at a better print quality than a Bambu X1C. So I was wondering if you had something that could be visually compared to known references for print quality/speed. Especially since delta printers are said to be fast, but what does that translate into for print quality and speed together? For example, I did an 8:14 Benchy after upgrading a bedslinger to a high-flow hotend, but it's a droopy mess with .6mm layer heights. If I want a Benchy to look good, it's more like an hour.

>>2686677
>Are there any tricks to printing a dome without supports?
Non-planar printing or printing the dome in multiple parts that fit together. How are the supports breaking?

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>>2686548
I wouldn't say support, but for mechanical important parts i use material4print.de. They have proven to not use Chink suppliers and have reliable(as in i tested them myself) ESD filaments. Even though it's certainly overkill, i like their PET-CF15 for show off pieces.
For pure prototyping it's recyclingfabrik.com these days. As their name implies one gets cheap recycled PLA and can send all their bad prints right back after.
Mind you these are both quite Kraut heavy options. I don't care for printer manufacturers, whatever works wins.

>>2686728
You can never go as thin as metal rails, so unless you wanna do something like pic rel, i wouldn't bother.

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>>2686677
>Are there any tricks to printing a dome without supports?
Yes, you will have to leave the top open
>>2686820
I like kraut heavy options thanks. Never heard of those.

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Does anyone have any idea why my print layers are shifting then shifting back? What's weird is the first pumpkin I printed is fine, but I printed two similar pumpkins with different faces and they both had this issue.

>>2686869
does it do it on everything at that layer height? or is it random, i noticed i got layer shifts from my a/c kicking on affecting prints

>>2686869
>>2686879
benchy hull line phenomenon
>https://help.prusa3d.com/article/the-benchy-hull-line_124745
It has to do with the transition from more sparse infill to layers with full or partial full infill. You can try to manually adjust for it, but it's very difficult to eliminate.

>>2686869
>>2686882
Never mind, that's a lateral shift. You probably have a mild collision happening if it's not showing up in gcode previews, increase your z hop for travels.

>>2686869
this looks a lot like an actual collision happening inside your printer (bambu I'm guessing)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHcNb0ABtsA

>>2686917
Sorry, Prusa MK3S+. Your video does make sense though. If my first print was fine, but my next print, same width/height pumpkin just different face, failed it would be a slicer issue, right?

Who's got Firmware for
E3 Free-runs TMC2209 32-bit Open Source Silent Motherboard with a CR touch

I know SOMEONES got it working.

>>2686933
https://github.com/CrealityOfficial/E3-Free-runs-Silent-Motherboard/tree/main/firmware

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>>2686917
>your printer (bambu I'm guessing)
>>2686922
>Sorry, Prusa MK3S+

Obsessed.

My 3d printer can't print a rectangle. It goes diagonal and shit. I already tried maxing the bed temperature.

>>2686677
I printed a PokeBall you start from the top not from the bottom. Just rotate it.

>>2687057
Have you considered you might be retarded?

i have a question about the k1 max fanboys since i got one today, I have the "A plate" and from what i can see one side is smooth PEI. Is the back side regular steel sheet? Doesn't look like it has a coating other than the black paint.

Another question, can I apply abs juice on a regular steel plate or would it not stick? I know it's mainly used on glass beds but what if I apply it on the backside of the A plate? I'm thinking about keeping the smooth PEI only for PLA and then use the backside for painters tape for PETG and abs juice for ABS and ASA

>>2687089
i don't need you ff

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Got the Bambu P1S in.
Hot DAMN it's quick.
Looks nice too.
And it may because my last printer is like 10 years old but it's quieter than they were lmao.

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>>2686820
Those are the ones I hate, I just want something cheap, not something that looks like real.
It doesn't need to hold several hundred tons of steel on top, just a tiny plastic box, wooden looking ties are a complete waste and they add unnecessary height too.
Here is an Idea that I think I'll try if I don't find anything better

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idk why I even bought these

>>2687125
I don't see why you'd want to make the rails sloped like this. It would likely cause problems with the weight of the cars rolling them over, also it's going to be more painful than LEGO if you step on them. Put the taper on the train wheels and make the tracks curved on top. It will take less material too.
As for the diagonal ties, they are actually inefficient: Straight ties are shorter (so need less material) and do a better job of keeping the rails at the correct distance.

>>2687131
>the manufacturing precision tolerance is below 0.01 mm on 98 % of the length of every spool we made.
It's shit like this where i'm not sure if he's mocking his customers or just being a moron.

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>>2687132
Like these?
I made them a triangle because I think they'll be faster to print, I will try both designs.
You are right with the ties tho, I changed them, I just don't want to use them every other centimeter like in here >>2686820

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jesus
This is the worst possible quality print on the P1S.
18 minutes print.

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>>2687158
I'd rather stick to flat wheels on flat survive. pic related is over proportional, but you should be fine with some kind of flange. Doesn't have to be thick tier like >>2686820, two perimeters should be well enough. Add a little notch inside your rail to reduce some stiffness.
>Verification not required.

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>>2687158
I meant curved in the other way, like in picrel. (Obviously on the top side only, I'm just lazy and bad at drawing.) They shouldn't be much slower to print and have a few advantages, such as only having a single point of contact no matter how well the wheels are aligned.
>>2687180
That's quite the overhang without anything to gain from it. Also flat rails do not align the train to the tracks like actual rails do.

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I made a mini version of the 2 I posted first to test the if ties are strong enough and they seem a little weak so I'm gonna add 2 ties per segment
>>2687184
I see, I will try those now, the U shaped ones turned out to be a little annoying since the ends got clogged and the tips are delicate
>>2687180
Materialwise they seem like the U ones, without providing the advantage of wrapping around the wheel

>>2687196
>U shaped ones turned out to be a little annoying
They're easily your worst option. Harder to print, no additional stability, extra unneeded material, et c. Not the worst misunderstanding I've seen so far, at least.

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>>2687172
Did up a shelf in onshape for a mini projector. earlier today.
After a single successful benchy after changing no settings, even the temperature settings for the filament (just let bambu use it's guess), this printed very very nice in 3.25 hours. I could have gone faster had I used a .28mm layer height instead of the standard .2mm layer height.
Bretty gud printer boys.

>>2687226
I enclosed my p1p and the stock settings fit abs were bad for polymaker asa and I still haven't gotten myself to fuck with it and get it working. Buy a roll and upload your settings plz thanks :D

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>>2687229
>$30
Possibly later, I've got a lot of old and shitty $10/roll PLA+ to burn through. I don't have ABS or ASA since I didn't have an enclosure on my last printer.
Got some TPU to play with though. Will print out those anti vibration feets.

>>2687106
anyone?

>>2687156
Explain what's wrong with the statement, anon. It's pretty straightforward.

prusa mk4 vs Bambu Labs P1s vs flsun v400 vs bambu x1 carbon

help spend my money

>>2687330
I don't know what flsun is. Looks like a meme. P1S just werks and werks great, but keep in mind it's a botnet. X1 carbon I have no idea why anyone would buy, the only real upside is the screen, but who cares? Prusa you buy if you're based and don't want to support ch*na, but they also have big wait times, and less features than the P1S. Unless maybe you don't care about those, then I'd prioritize the prusa, then the p1s.

>>2687331
>I don't know what flsun is
Opinion discarded.

>>2687330
>prusa mk4
Not Chinese. If you like orange.

>Bambu Labs P1s
If you want a printer that goes BRRR.

>flsun v400
If you want to watch your printer as it's printing.

>bambu x1 carbon
If you want a printer that goes BRRR but better.

>>2687334
>>bambu x1 carbon
>If you want a printer that goes BRRR but better.

Cap.

>>2687330
Let's cool it down a notch. What do you want to accomplish? Funny multicolored figures, mechanical prototypes, fix stuff around the house, etc...

>>2687331
Honestly, >>2687333. If it's a joke, it's hard to read.

>>2687340
What printers do you own?

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I think I finally have it dialed in somewhat
a bit wobbly along the Y axis for some reason tho

>>2687330
>>2687340
>Let's cool it down a notch. What do you want to accomplish?
This guy is right. If you're going to just print little mini figures and trinkets, the chinese do it better for cheaper so you shouldn't spend too much on a printer. You don't have to spend $700-1200 on a "Just werks" Bambu. Even Anycubic Kobra/ Elegoo Neptunes work really well without much fiddling. And they're getting fast as well.

However I am completely smitten with my Bambu P1S. No plans for multicolor because it seems like there's just so much waste and added time.

>>2687386
You would be post-processing that anyways. Good print anon

>>2687400
problem is with parts that I need to have fit together
I did a bunch of cubes and while the sides where the printer goes strictly along the X axis are beautiful when going along Y its all wobbly
I tried tensioning the belts and checked if anything came between the wheels and frame but all looks good. im out of ideas

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400x300 for $1400. Unless it turns out to be total shit, they probably completely undermined any of bambu's XL plans.

>>2687484
It says right there retail price is $1,999.

Why is every 3D printer made by some trash Chinese company?

>>2687497
Because everything is made in China, anon.
You can't make stampings, laser cut components, aluminum extrusions, bearings, rails, POM wheels, PCBs, belts, thermistors, heater cartridges, screws, nuts, nozzles, or heatsinks in the United States or Europe at a remotely competitive price compared to China, so even "premium" printers that are "made" in real countries are still made from a pile of Chinese components. If you want a 3D printer made in America, by Americans, from American-made parts, you'll be sucking on a $3k Ender 3.

>>2687500
Why did the West think this was a good idea to rely on China, a supposed enemy, for all of our manufacturing?

>>2687497
>>2687501
Fuck off back to /pol/.

>>2687334
>If you like orange.
got one in all black

>>2687506
Eat shit, chink.

>>2687518
You monster.

>>2687506
I know confronting reality is not your kind's strong suit, but you really need to come up with better material

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This thing is up for auction at a price of $100 right now. I have heard a lot of bad things about this machine but it seems pretty cool, and im wondering if its worth trying it?

Thoughts?

https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/five-color-five-material-3d-printer-rova3d-fully-funds-kickstarter-29174/

>SuperSlicer has built in calibration shit
>PrusaSlicer has tons of useful features like being able to edit the models slightly before you print
>Can't use SuperSliders flow calibration with PrusaSlicer
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Is there any Slicer with both the pros of SuperSlicer and PrusaSlicer?

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>>2687579
I have a solution.

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>>2685106
>tfw you nail the shrink factors for your annealed HTPLA parts
No you can't Mr. Simpson, no one can.

>>2687581
But I want to tune the flow in for PrusaSlicer and its more effort than SuperSlicer

>>2687497
Everything is made by some Chinese company

What is the point of heating the bed when glue is so much more effective?

>>2687500
You could start a factory for each of those components in the us as chinas prices are not competitive anymore, but murifats are retarded.

>>2687574
people have trouble calibrating one nozzle that would be absolute hell to work with

>>2687618
well I'm currently the highest bidder. May end up getting it lol.

>>2687610
I cant be bothered to apply glue all the time and I like my shit clean

What values for elephant's foot compensation & brim separation gap do other MK4 owners use? Right now I'm at 0.2mm for both.

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The chinks finally broke him.
Dubious if it's really him, I don't see a "By Josef Prusa" anywhere on that tweet.

>>2687687
What does "Green Mode" mean? I'm not familar with how the Bambu website works. I believe there's a button you press and it sends it to your printer. Is Prusa asking if people want a similar button on Printables for their Bambu?

>>2687340
>>2687391
Gun stuff, need pretty high dimensional accuracy and temperature consistency

>>2687706
MakerWorld, Bambu's model site thing, is basically Printables but green.
People were migrating files from their Printables accounts to Bambu's site to cash in on their rewards program, but Prusa is throwing a hissy fit about it.
So he's blocked that ability.
It's getting pretty dire at the prusa company.

>>2687726
So its just another comment about Bambu stealing. I thought it was a way to prevent Printables from losing users to MakerWorld. Pretty funny joke though.

>>2687726
>It's getting pretty dire at the prusa company.
>company having backlog till next year must be doing pretty poorly.
Fanboys are buying and recent popcorn didn't cumber them. I'd rather his biggest problem still being finding more employees working for less than average pay.

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>>2687687
What do you mean dubious? This is normal behavior for the bearded troll. If this is news to you, then you must be new to Prusa.

>>2687759
yeh
just chinks chinkin'.
>>2687759
>company having backlog till next year must be doing pretty poorly.
Anon the backlog is precisely why the company is stresing.
People getting tired of delays, cancelling their orders and buying a bambu.
That's how they lost my money.

>>2687710
Interesting gun stuff? Might wanna check for something like a used Creatbot F160, or even build a cerberus and commit to PEEK prints. Accuracy isn't that much of an issue anymore, provided a calibrated machine, recent firmware and not going full top speed.
That said, if you're afraid of burning down your house, a P1S and a pack of powder salt will probably get you in the right direction.

>>2687687
The pollack is a douche, but I still don't feel like defending the chinks.

>>2687781
The weird part is they don't need defending.
It's a "I'm totally not mad, I'm flattered" post followed by a wall of seethe.
They just make cheaper, faster, reliable printers and that's what people have been waiting on. There's not much more to say really.

>>2683175
Alright anons, I want some feedback. Currently in college to get a piece of paper to act as backing for the money I should be earning given my capabilities.
Anyways, IDGAF about the dorm rules, and want to keep a 3d printer here. $500 max budget.
I've got a nearly finished V 0.2 at home, which I'll finish assembling during the upcoming break. I'm not taking it w/me, just in case it gets discovered during an inspection and confiscated, thrown out, or whatever they do.
I've got a scrapped E3v2 and a scrapped Sidewinder X1.
Do I try and design and cobble together a new printer, with said spare parts (mainly just frame, fans, and screen, maybe steppers) to have something I won't feel bad about throw out if taken with me?
Do I get a smelly resin printer?
Or do I just snag one of those new A1's and be done w/ it?

>>2687803
God don't get a resin printer. There is no part of the entire process that isn't a pain in the fucking ass.
I'd get an A1 and throw a box over it and try to get a noctua fan or something to vent out heat so it can be incognito + you can do ABS then.
In a weird switch, the Bambu is quieter than the prusa in this.

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Participating in an exercise in futility to learn modeling better.
Making my own "reusable" "booster packs" for magic the gathering draft cube. Made to fit 16 holo proxied cards in dragonshield sleeves. So it's assuming that you have a real card, a base printed piece of cardstock, and then a holographic paper overlay all in a sleeve.
Going to design a lid like a cigarette pack, and then try to make the sides interlocking so you can actually form it into a cube and just carry the cube around and pick packs off like a christmas tree.
I mean, there's cubamajigs but their site was down when I first tried to find and buy them so I thought they went out of business. It's up now but everything is 50-66% off so maybe they're still closing. Their half-off sale is hard to beat as you get 25 packs for $15. I might can print these for 30 cents a piece, and each takes an hour to print. It could print all fucking day and I make $12 worth of boxes.
So just using it as a learning tool.

Lol, I found a replicator 5th gen mini Makerbot in the dumpster. It works.
Now I can larp being rich in 2014.

Notice how the retard never answered the question >>2687345. Reminder that you guys should be very careful who you take advice from. There are people in here that down own a printer but keep talking out the ass.

>>2687932
Suppose he doesn't own any. What bearing does that have on his question (what does the anon want a printer for, that anons might recommend one)?

>>2687500
Wuxn (why the chink name??) tries to do all American and it's really pricey.
And yeah, I want to shoot myself in the head paying for electricity for private use in Germany. I can't imagine how expensive it is to run industry here.
>>2687710
Hoffman tactical uses prusa mk4s. Although a printer that can do dedicated support filament should help not wasting expensive filament.
The real question is how you will dry your carbon fiber nylon for 12h+ at 180°C lol (if you want to do big boy guns)

>>2687940
Industry pays less for power and no EEG either, Hans. They're crippled enough by regular taxes.

>>2687940
>The real question is how you will dry your carbon fiber nylon for 12h+ at 180°C
This seems like an easy task for a common household oven.

>>2687934
Why would you want info from a secondary? It's likely forgotten and biased.
Get information from the source.

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>>2687500
>If you want a 3D printer made in America, by Americans, from American-made parts
You'd have gotten a Makergear M2 like I did.
Good printer, still works. Old but gold.
Company's out of business because people wanted cheap chinese printers instead of the tanks they made.

>>2687934
If you don't own a printer you're not allowed to give advice to others on what printer they should buy.

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>>2687971
>Company's out of business

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>>2687391
this anon is absolutely wrong about everything except bambu being good. the ability to simply do TWO colors raises your simple trinkets to 11/10, nametags, figures, even a simple case pops with just one added color. it also gives you the opportunity to use support filament, which means PETG x PLA not the fancy shit (I have never used my expensive ass PVA roll, it lives in the filament dryer).

>>2687330
surely you mean two P1S or a carbon. If money is truly not an issue buy two P1S and one AMS, or if you really like color, one carbon with two AMS.

>>2687574
for $100 I imagine the salvage would be worth it

>>2687850
put a half moon in the bottom so you can push up the cards instead of pinching them

>>2687892
>in the dumpster
I kind of miss being poor. Post pics I want to experience this vicariously. Also print a voron with it, you could be bigger than that guy who traded a penny for a house on craigslist.