#324Last Thread: >>2670301>Your print failed? Go to:https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/>Calibrate your printer.https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.htmlIf that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:>A picture of the failed part>Printer make & model>Filament type/brand>Slicer & slicer settings>What printer should I buy? [32/72/5 :detadpU tsaL]Do your own research, these are just popular and available options, don't buy a $1000 bedslinger:Up to 200 USD: Kingroon KP3S, Sovol SV01, Voxelab Aquila X2, Anycubic Kobra Neo, ELEGOO Neptune 2S, Malyan M300/Monoprice Mini DeltaUp to 300 USD: Kingroon KP3S Pro/Pro S1, Sovol SV06, Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, Elegoo Neptune 3Up to 400 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1, Sovol SV01 Pro, Artillery Sidewinder SW-X2Up to 500 USD: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, FLSUN Super RacerUp to 500 USD Large-Format: Anycubic Kobra Max, Elegoo Neptune 3 MaxUp to 800 USD: Bambu Lab P1POver 1000 USD: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon, Ultimaker, Lulzbot, Raise3DDIY: Voron, Rat Rig, Ultimaker/2/3, https://reprap.org/wiki/SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg>Where can I get things to print?https://www.thingiverse.com/https://thangs.com/https://printables.com/https://grabcad.com/https://google.com/https://www.yeggi.com/https://cults3d.com/T*legr*m>What CAD software should I use?Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCADFree to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid EdgeAutistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCADMesh free-forming and modeling: BlenderArchitects: Sketchup>What slicer should I use?For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicerFor autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControlLegacy Pastebin (Last updated 998 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>>2675810any good and available US made filaments out there that isnt Solutech? or brands not made in china, but also not prusament? seems US made brands keep going out of business or get hard to find.
I took a Dremel to my print and now it's melted. Realistically, I should have seen it coming, but I'm still surprised. Should I just sand by hand?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMcGoPFM7T8>"Just run through a couple of spools to find the right temperature for your filament!"
>>2675823>US Filament brands3D-Fuel, Fusion Filaments, Printed Solid, Push Plastic, Paramount 3D, and Protopasta. For not-shit from China, usually recommend Polymaker. Polymaker's American sub-brand is Overture, and if you're in the US it's often but not always cheaper to get Overture.
>>2675926Why watch or share this garbage?
>>2675942>Paramount 3DTheir 'Iron Red' PLA is probably my favorite filament, in color and print quality
>>2675943Because it's hilariously bad.
I want to print this statue, but probably 4 times larger than my printer can handle. Has anyone sliced something like this into 4 or 8 pieces to print? How did it turn out?Would I be better off slicing in a more precise fashion to use less support?
>>2675942>For not-shit from China, usually recommend Polymaker. Polymaker's American sub-brand is Overture, and if you're in the US it's often but not always cheaper to get Overture.Inland brand from microcenter is sourced from polymaker, the packaging with the leaf is polymaker sourced, idk if it will actually be cheaper but another option to check out.>have polymaker lime>decided to look at overture>grass green>grass green looks just like lime>order it>compare nearly looks identicalThere is a slight color change, I think that could be from polymaker has been expose to light for a year now vs grass green package up in cardboard.
>>2675893For items you want to sand, don't use pla. I've never gotten a good result with sanded pla unless I spend hours manually doing it.
>>2675823If in Central Ohio, IC3D is local. Low color variety, but everything is high quality and you can buy huge bulk spools so it's cheaper than Inland as long asyou plan on printing loads of things.
>>2675893lower the speed, use a different grit, don't use a "for metal" attachment. dum dumI've been printing a lot of stuff in ABS but haven't bothered to set up vapor smoothing. I just don't mind the print lines I guess.
>>2675810Anybody have a good reason for my supports always looking skeletonized? They don't fail usually but they always have small gaps on almost every layer at seemingly random start points, even now with my support speed dropped by over half trying to get them to stop failing to adhere initially on top of a printed piece
Hey kings, I want to print parts for converting soda cans into miniature wargame terrain, do you think I'd have any problem with printing these parts flat on the bed ( resin ) or do I need supports ? the only protruding parts are tiny "rivets" on the sides. Would love some expert opinions here.
>>2676051>Would love some expert opinions here.>>>/tg/3dpg
>>2676051As long as all of the not-visible parts (back side of the fins) are touching the bed, I don't see any issues
>>2676056I just wanted to check because I'm not used to this yet.Do you anticipate problems with printing fake pipes this way ? Or the other decorations for that matter ?
2676061the curves and arches and slats all together make this look like 40k terrain bits
>>2676061I think it will probably work ok. A lot of people have better luck orienting the parts with horizontal surfaces at a bit of an angle. I don't do a lot of resin printing though so maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in
>>2676061pipes are fine I'm worried about those shutters tho
>hardware store is closed for the holiday weekend so I can't buy insulationtrue makeshift hobo hours
Ender 3 v2This piece the tension knob presses on has cracked around the front screw, so i expect any belt tension to be inconsistent Is there a print file for this piece? Failing that, a metal replacement? Failing THAT, an original plastic replacement?
>>2676178I don't know much about your printer and can't tell much off the image but if you mean this piece it would be extremely simple to measure it and model one out even on something as basic as meshmixer since I assume you've got at least one working printer given you're request for a filebut also it's an ender 3 so there's high odds somebody else has already made a file for whatever piece you're needing
need advice on a recurring failure several hours into a 2 day print on a year-ish old prusa mk3s, everything is either stock or stock replacements aside from swapping brass nozzle for a coated steel option, first print I've tried where this has been an issue, have messed with the file and re-sliced several times to no availgets to a point where it starts throwing thermal anomalies despite temp never fluctuating more than 6c either direction and the anomaly pings worsen until it pauses the print and insta-anomaly-pauses if I try to resumeran cleaning filament through nozzle and gave it a few passes with a needle and fed spool back in, didn't see any pock marks in extruded material, no curling eitherno visible damage to thermistor or its wires or the heater cartridge/wires and checked that neither somehow got loose at their board connectionstried gcode disabling thermal model warnings and did a PID after it cooled down and started another where it instantly jumped/read at 305c and killed the processunplugged everything and waited on it to cool then checked thermistor screw and saw it was a little loose while still warm, tightened till I felt a little resistancehave a new test print going with thermal warnings still off that seems steady so far but haven't hit the common occurrence point yetany suggestions as to where to look next if it ends up failing at that same general area this time? I have a backup for the thermistor and cartridge on the way just in case
>>2676189and for what it's worth the print itself hasn't exploded on the bed while printing, it's something machine-side killing these prints despite them coming out clean
>>2676178Yes, there are plenty on thingiverse. One of the fist things people usually print with the Ender 3
>>2676189>throwing thermal anomaliesCan you describe that in more detail? It sounds like it could be the slicer calling for temps that are out of bounds, so to speak. Did you ctrl+f the temperature changes in the g-code and make sure it wasn't calling for absurd temps? Can't imagine why it would, but if the error is consistent at the same spot, that is where I would start
>>2676189Consider reflashing Marlin for it with more of the latest shit enabled, there may be options that give you more verbose descriptions of errors.
>>2676195it starts the beautiful chime of something going wrong and displays THERMAL ANOMALY or THERMAL ERROR and either beeps a few times and recovers or pauses the print with the message remaining on the display, can go navigate to resume but if I do it will just instantly pop the error again and pause again till I kill it. Even hitting the reset switch will see those warnings persist if I begin another but fully powering down will wipe things clean, I'll open the gcode on this latest one up when I get back to my desktop tonight but I've printed a variation of this model near a dozen times without any problems like this yet, might be some weird geometry in this newest edit caused the slicer to freak out and throw in a wild temp fluctuation for some reason like you said possiblycomparing two killed prints the error is semi-consistent within a few layers usually but they are almost all on different slices with slight variations in print speeds as right before this I was having issues with my extruder not keeping up with my usual speed that went away when slowing down which tells me that that motor or one of the gears is starting to wear down, but that's an easily band-aidable problem to worry about after this thermal shit gets sorted>>2676201I'll look into this as well if this current attempt fails, I'm still new-ish enough to the software side of this shit that I'm squeamish with flashing anything other than the stock shit that pops up on prusaslicermostly after swapping my E5+ to kersey's modded e5+ firmware to let me mess with the bed PID and managing to disable all the touchscreen functionality for several days before a re-flash with no changes fixed that somehow
Designing a "quick" change toolholder for a drill and laser to mount on my ender 3 v2.The drill's height will be calibrated via a seperate Z limit switch that the bit presses against each time I change the bit, so any vertical misalignment isn't a big deal.I guess I could also mount a bed level sensor on it.
I have been messing with my new LDO Super Power motors on my printer, and have run into a brand new klipper error:"MCU 'mcu' shutdown: Rescheduled timer in the pastThis generally occurs when the micro-controller has beenrequested to step at a rate higher than it is capable ofobtaining."Would anyone happen to know what the "max step rate" for TMC2209s is? Does higher microsteps mean lower max speed? Any insight is appreciated.
>>2676235>Would anyone happen to know what the "max step rate" for TMC2209s is?Pic related is the maximum frequency stuff. Not sure whether you want fullstep or not, will probably need to read the finer details and see whether there's anything about it in the printer board's or Klipper's docs.Assuming it's just the 1/2*f result, there's a 10-16MHz input for the clock, so best case scenario it's 8MHz. Check your board schematic for more. It's quite possible for a 32-bit board to send pulses faster than 8MHz.The problem might also mean the printer main board itself is unable to send step and direction commands fast enough, which may be the case if it's an 8-bit board. I can imagine this being the case if the board wants to send a pulse every 6µs, but has a 16MHz clock and can't get an integer division of its clock for that. Though I've also heard that they approximate this out pretty easily and you just get artefacts at high speed.>Does higher microsteps mean lower max speedHigher microsteps means smaller distance moved per step. It won't lower the maximum steps per second (as measured from the step pin), but it will lower the maximum linear speed. It will lower the number of "full steps" capable per second, so it may be that the "step rate" written in the error message is referring to "full steps".
Can I cold pull a cht nozzle. Or am I going to have to heat up the hotend to change out.
>>2676208>>2676288Ok so I got it sliced properly, but Prusaslicer was telling me I may have bed adhesion issues. So I added a brim, cranked the bed up so it was lightly scraping the nozzle, and tried to mix some glue stick with the IPA, so let's hope it's fine in the morning. The bottom layer will probably look like shit, but who cares it's a functional print, I have a deburring tool. Pretty sure the half millimetre of extra pressure at the bottom won't propagate up the walls or infill and the rest of the print will come out just fine. Should probably invest in some Z-hop now that I have dual-Z screws though.But damn are these some sexy parts, I hope they come out looking somewhat good. I am printing them vertically since the strength of the dovetail would be shit otherwise.
>>2676271>Can I cold pull a cht nozzleYes, you can cold pull a CHT. Use nylon for best result. Dont know about the chink CHT clones though. The copper insert might come out with the filament.Pretty sure you cant cold pull the Revo CHT variant.> Or am I going to have to heat up the hotend to change out. Im assuming change out nozzle?You always need to heat up your hotend to change nozzle, unless you have a Revo.If you meant change out filament, then theres no reason not to heat it. You need to heat it to insert filament anyways.
>>2676256Thanks, so it's a hardware thing. I'm using a 64 bit board, so it's likely a bottleneck of the driver itself. Basically, I was trying to do the fastest travel move until the motors skipped, and at some ungodly value running 256 microsteps, the error appeared. I'll need to do some more testing to find out what number exactly makes this happen, and reduce amps until this number barely doesnt skip because 2 amps really bakes the drivers.
How do you guys keep your moisture-sensitive filaments dry?Just ikea plastic boxes with desiccant or something more sophisticated?Or do you just store them wherever and dry them before printing?I was thinking about buying a dedicated cabinet for filament storage and adding an electric dehumidifier to it, but most of what's available on the market seems to be either too big or not really designed to get the humidity that low.
>>2676360I got an ammo box with a couple handfuls of silica gel packs in it, fits about four 1kg spools.
>>2676235>>2676256So I've messed around a bit more, and lowering microsteps to 128 does solve the issue, at least for the speeds I'm limited to. The motion system of the E5+ is showing its limits, and the pom wheels start to resonate or something above 270mm/s, making a kinda squeak/hum mixture.
Recently started having issues with curling at the bottom of my raft. Used to print fine, using a glass print bed, but after a few prints it's started lifting in one corner. Any thoughts?>230/65 degrees>bed leveled beforehand>Ender 3
why the fuck is prusaslicer suddenly insisting that supports on a file that previously worked should be starting two layers above the layer they're supposed to be printing onit does this with all three support pattern options but it's the easiest to see in the preview with organics
>>2676449Haven't tried it yet. Does acetone screw up a glass print bed?
>>2676481Not necessarily, but it can fuck up lots of other things nearby. Generally not recommended around 3D printers.
>>2676449oh for fuck sakes stop suggesting that, all it doesi t move the dirt, and your greasy finger marks around on the bed. >>2676444Anon needs to properly clean the bed with warm water and dish soap.Fuck I am sick and tired of reading>ItS bEcAuSe YoU dIdNt WiPe ThE bEd WiTh IpA.
>>2676506fat fingered greasy hand retard can't clean his shit without a sink. what do you put pepperoni on the glass or are you just naturally that greasy?
>>2676325>>2676395I just read about this now, but it seems the TMC2209 has a UART comms pin that can be used to dynamically set the motor current. It would be nice if you had a "rapids" mode where the steppers would all go up to 2A just for the short amount of time it takes to jog from one move to another. You could also do this using FETs on the AREF pin I guess.I'd also like to drop the stepper current really low, so I can drive the hot end into the bed and measure the skipped step condition in order to level without a probe. And without damaging the bed, naturally.
>>2676537a feature to look forward to being standard in another few years, perhaps.>>2676395I put some dry PTFE lube on the 2020 extrusions and while it did make the motion smoother, it didnt help the vibration issue. Possibly a limitation of the bearings.
>>2676548>a feature to look forward to being standard in another few years, perhaps.Pretty sure printer boards that come with more advanced stepper drivers like the TMC5160 should natively have this capability.Not having to use a seperate bed level probe allows you to clear the print head for more extreme non-planar print angles. Though print-head docking methods like on the Annex K3 might still be fine.
Woo, the dovetail works like a dream. No morning spaghetti. The holder is on the wrong angle, but I can reprint that part once I calculate the deviation.
>>2676506They hated him because he spoke the truth
>>2676537We already have Hybrid Threshold in Marlin: /** * TMC2130, TMC2160, TMC2208, TMC2209, TMC5130 and TMC5160 only * The driver will switch to spreadCycle when stepper speed is over HYBRID_THRESHOLD. * This mode allows for faster movements at the expense of higher noise levels. * STEALTHCHOP_(XY|Z|E) must be enabled to use HYBRID_THRESHOLD. * M913 X/Y/Z/E to live tune the setting */You can also pepper in M907 with your slicer or a post-processor to dynamically adjust the current whenever you want, turning it up for crazy rapid travels for example.
>>2676537>I'd also like to drop the stepper current really low, so I can drive the hot end into the bed and measure the skipped step condition in order to level without a probe. And without damaging the bed, naturally.This is also already a Marlin feature./** * Use StallGuard2 to probe the bed with the nozzle. * Requires stallGuard-capable Trinamic stepper drivers. * CAUTION: This can damage machines with Z lead screws. * Take extreme care when setting up this feature. *///#define SENSORLESS_PROBING
does anyone have experience testing different methods of connecting prints together? i need to know the strongest method
>>2676514I assume every anon is like this, you dont?
I really want to get into 3D printing, but I do not have a garage or a workshop. Is it possible to print indoors without getting headaches or poisoned?
>>2676639>Is it possible to print indoors without getting headaches or poisoned?Yes, I have an Ender 3 on my work desk and I work from home at my PC 40 hours a week, plus 10 hours a week gaming.
does benchy actually works as a boat or is it just a piece of plastic that tips over by itself
>>2676649Apparently they're not normally supposed to float, but you can make them float if you adjust the size & infill. There are also alternate versions that are designed to float.
>>2676615M907 only works if your mainboard's MCU has DACs feeding the stepper drivers, or else it has digipots on them. Digipots are a nice idea in terms of only using 2 pins on the MCU for all the drivers, assuming they have enough different addresses. But with 8 pin packages you only get one extra pin for address setting.>>2676616Since most machines have screw-based Z, I wouldn't really trust this. Even belted Z could dent a PEI bed.>>2676639With an FDM printer that only prints low-melt plastics like PLA, sure. They are kinda noisy though.I'd make sure you get a printer with silent stepper drivers, and probably upgrade the fans on the printer with ones from Noctua or whoever. May need to print custom fan ducts since Noctua don't make fans as small as you get on some printers.If you care about noise, that is.
I've been printing stuff for the escape room where I work, like prop replacements and puzzle components. I struck up a deal with my boss to print stuff from home using filament that they buy in exchange for some extra "maintenance" hours on the books.I learned how to use basic free programs to make them and now I'm getting ready to put that knowledge toward designing and building a bigger, weird thing for myself. This hobbie's fuckin fun bros...
>>2676706M906 is the equivalent for TMC drivers.
>>2676742These drivers only support current changing via the optional UART interface. Which simply aren't connected in most 3D printer mainboards in favour of hard-setting hardware pins like MS1, MS2, etc. The Creality mainboards just have the steppers connected via the step/direction pins and leave the UART pin tied to Vcc via a resistor.The Einsy Rambo v1.1 uses a quad digipot to cover all 4 stepper drivers. I kinda prefer the UART method since you can also read and write other data, like changing microstepping amount and reading fault codes and such. If you want to detect stepper-specific faults, then it's far more efficient than having a seperate line to each driver's fault line.Using UART to control TMC stepper current is a little bit time consuming (you need to calculate a CRC) but it's doable with a 32-bit mainboard so long as you're not doing it constantly. Using a dual-core MCU for this and having one core dedicated to UART comms would be good enough I think, even if it's to 8 seperate steppers (e.g. 3Z, 1X, 1Y, 3E). Though you would need a seperate UART interface for every 4 stepper drivers you're interfacing with. Honestly I'm liking the idea of a driverless main board that connects to stackable modular 4-stepper driver daughter boards more and more.
>>2676756>Which simply aren't connected in most bottom-tier 3D printer mainboards you find in <$150 printersIn addition to UART, there's also SPI for TMC drivers. It's been several years since I had a mainboard that didn't have both ready-to-go, pretty much since TMC drivers first became popular in 3D printers.
I wonder if you can use a 3d printer to etch pcb. The idea is to print a layer of plastic on top of copper and those places would hopefully wouldn't be etched by the acid. So instead of ink, you use plasticWould that work? I assume pla or petg wouldn't be affected so the question is if it sticks well to the copper
>>2675810I have a TPU spool (75A i think) i have officially borrowed from work that i have to return soon.Before i do that i want to print something small, squishy and with big tits from it, but i want it to be something tasteful instead of just boring titty flashing stuff like cults is full of. I also want to have the model be as supportless as possible. I was thinking maybe a bust like that could work or something.Anyone got any model recommendations?
>>2676913Works like garbage and can't make fine traces. Resin printers on the other hand can be used to directly expose PCBs for both etching and silkscreening, it's pretty fucking sweet and if it weren't for the cheap PCB prototyping services I think it'd catch on as the go-to for making PCBs at home.
>>2676915something from dnd or pokemon
I have given myself to the botnetI literally cannot envision myself fussing with building something similar
>>2677089Just install bambushit. Pair it with orca. Turn LAN mode on and check if it works. Back these files up only. Uninstall bambushit. Put these back in the location. Use orca slicer in LAN mode without having to log in and use the gay cloud.
>>26759561. scale it down2. obtain larger printer3. cut off the bottom plate below feets4. turn twist and/or angle so it fits. like you could put his back to the bed. you don't have to print upright (and shouldn't in many cases)5. break it up into actual pieces instead of just cutting it up like a cakeor6. try to hide the straight cuts in non-focus placesin other words>get gud
>>2677136>he doesn't flood china servers with constant variations on dragon dildo files
>>2676921>can't make fine traceswhat kind of printlet retard are you?>>2676913seems like it would work. getting the pre-etched board to be your level secure print bed might be an issue but I'm sure you could make a jig for a specific size board blank. removing the pla from the copper might be an issue unless you can just heat the whole post-etch board.
>>2675810I feel like no matter what I do I always find something frustrating with my ender 3 v2 or its prints, should I just get a bambu P1P? Do they really just work out the box and I will never have to calibrate and level shit again?There is a lot I'd like to print but I don't think I have the time or willpower to deal with troubleshooting my ender anymore.
krautfag here, is pic related a somewhat good deal for someone trying to get into 3D printing? I just wanna print some small things off of thingiverse and later on try printing rectangle boxes (I guess in parts then) for building game controllers/arcade sticks.
This chink shit p1p hot end replacement with cht nzzle is great. Max flow I tested at was 28mm/s.
>>2677249if you are able to get this shipped to you the bed is bigger and its on sale for 109 USD, and probably another 10 off on the code of the promo pic on the website. https://kingroon.com/products/official-kingroon-kp3s-3d-printer
what happened to thingverse, it wasn't as shitty before
>>2677311they tried to monetize it, and everyone sort of left for thangs and printables.
I don’t think this is in the OP, but maybe i missed it.I have been printing premade models on-and-off for over a year now, but watching a video about printing little houses for frogs and birds and stuff got me a little excited to try sculpting custom prints. There’s lots i could ask about this, but my basic question is should i use blender or is there a better alternative?
>>2677330If you're already familiar with Blender, I'd stick with it. There's a plugin for it to make it more CAD-like, and there's also some new meme Blender-inspired CAD program that looks quite powerful, not free but not hugely expensive. Sketchup Make 2017 or Tinkercad may be sufficient for what you're doing (it's fine for what I do) in which case they're really easy to get started with. Fusion 360 is sorta the go-to for a more advanced modelling software since it's free for non-commercial use. FreeCAD is potentially powerful but insufficiently polished. There are a few improved forks for it though.
>Resin Printer in garage>Resin likes to print at 25-30C>Garage is 20C in the winter at best>Garage is 33C during the summerGoddammit.
>>2676444Clean bed with soapy water, get an enclosure, perhaps re level.
in the middle of designing snap-in motherboard standoffs for my 3d printed pc case projecthow thin can i have the lugs be? a #6-32 screw is already pretty thin to begin with, 3.5mm in diameter
>try to put print on before work so it's ready once i'm home>delaminates before i leave due to uneven bed (ender 3 v2)>turn off printer>end up working 3 hours longer than i planned>get home>take printer from cold garage into house>take aluminium heated bed off to bend to be as flat as possible>do the same with the bed carriage>fasten nuts on the bed to keep the adjusting bolts as vertical as possible>it looks dead-on>reposition extruder while i'm at it>put wheels back on carriage>asymmetry looks opposite to my photo but it's probably fine>screw bed down onto carriage>forgot the belt>unscrew belt from carriage again>clip the belt back on>screw carriage back together>take printer back out to garage>plug in>home all axes>doesn't hit y limit switch, skips steps until it calls a fault code>the asymmetry was a cutout for the y stepper>about this time the awful magic fm music from work starts to play in my head>tear down bed and carriage again to flip wheels to the other side and put together again>level bed>still feels bowed, think maybe the x gantry is getting bent by the dual-z setup>start print>bed is taking ages to heat up again, as usual>actually it's still at 15C>the garage is at 15C>the bed isn't getting hot at all>unscrew bottom>red wire was pushed into the wrong screw terminal>fix and put together again>start print>seems to be working>spend the next 15 minutes hanging around to see if it delaminates again>it doesn't>get back inside>spend 15 minutes writing thishope i tightened the y belt tensioner enough, how was everyone else's day?
>>2677410>EnderStopped reading there, you need some auto z leveling my dude.
>>2677012Needs to be more specific. I can find a ton of pokemon or dnd models, but most of them are going to be "Bare tits eevee" or "Trillion supports mommyndflayer"
>>2677402It's all about stress and strain.
>>2677394>25-30CIt's 20 minimum though, and the temperature i've had near-perfect results at in winter. And that was in a 12C building during winter at best witha heater.Build a PTC heater and print/find somewhere to print a spacer lid for wires and you will be all set.
>>2677462Fuck, forgot pic.
>>2677402Print and test. At worst, treat them like 1 time use and print extra for if you have to move or reinstall them. As long as they hold the first time, they're good enough.
>>2677221you cold probably disable homing entirely in your gcode and move printer head manually where you want 0,0,0 to be (and make nozzle firmly press against the pcb)And then run a modified gcode that starts from there
Another Kraut here>Mega S for 80€>Fly E3 pro for 40€>cht clone nozzle for 1€Maybe in the future:>Orbiter>RevoOk plan, or am i thinking too cheapskate here?>>2677249Ruhrgebiet? I think same offer is floating on Ebay.
Ender 3 v2 with the basic ultimajer cura .12 profile Printed 215/60How fix
>>2677221>>2676921I did some experiments, it looks like it is not sticking well to copper but that might be also due to me not being able to properly level Z. But it looks promising, the lines are clean at least when they are able to stick. I will try a bit more later this week
>>2677394print in the fall and spring I guess, lol.
>>2676913>>2677618Mmmm thick traces. Yes, this has been done in a variety of ways, both making masks and printing directly on the copper. It's not a great technique, but fun to try if you have the stuff on hand. If you want to seriously etch PCBs at home, a resin printer is phenomenal for exposing boards controllably and at a high resolution with great ease.
>>2677402turn that 90º so the slot is vertical and it will be a lot stronger than printing it upright on the base.
>>2677614Part cooling (needs to be more than just one side otherwise you have a shielded direction that doesn't get much cooling).Temperature calibration (to reduce the oozing). 215 is quite high for PLA, try 200.Retractions (to relieve the pressure that causes oozing).
>>2677431I'm printing mechanical parts, having a wavy bottom surface isn't acceptable. The bed itself needs to be flat.
>>2677210>1. scale it down>2. obtain larger printer>3. cut off the bottom plate below feets>4. turn twist and/or angle so it fits. like you could put his back to the bed. you don't have to print upright (and shouldn't in many cases)I want it larger than and standard printer will print>5. break it up into actual pieces instead of just cutting it up like a cake>or>6. try to hide the straight cuts in non-focus placesLiterally what I was asking.I generally print useful things, not statues or figures
>>2677628Seems like a lot of work. How is this better than using a laser printer?
>>2677348Thanks for the software choices and idea!
>>2677725well, if you don't have a laser printer
>>2676051Going to be very difficult to remove and may break in the process, unless you have a flexplate.Team: does anyone have an opinion on my getting an Anycubic Cobra 2 instead of a P1P? Its a lot cheaper and should print just as fast. Does anyone have an Anycubic kobra 2?
>>2677725It's not, a laser printer is way better. Or a resin 3D printer, which skips even more steps and is even easier.
>>2677737>Anycubic Cobra 2 instead of a P1P? Its a lot cheaper and should print just as fastCan't tell if you're joking. There's no comparison between these printers. The P1P is far higher quality, has a larger build volume, and is an order of magnitude faster than the Kobra 2. There is absolutely no comparison between the two.
>>2677742Yeah, but is it $400 better? I don’t know anyone with one, and you cant trust reviews anymore, they’re all paid for.
Also they both (pro kobra 2) top out at 500mm/s and 20000ms/s
>>2677743I'd argue that it is, not that it's not without drawbacks of its own, but hell yes I'd say it's $400 better than an Anycubic Ender Clone
>>2677743>Yeah, but is it $400 better? Mostly yes. However look towards P1S and the question "Is it $500 better?" becomes a clear yes.Don't trust max speeds on cheap bedslingers. They're always exaggerated, way more than higher priced alternatives and stonewall fast once you reach taller build heights.Might as well do as >>2677565, which btw is absolutely viable, if you're a poorfag. Assuming the machine is used at 80€, check if all parts still work, major dents, etc. before ordering.Although at $200 you might choose a beefier starting machine to throw a proper board into after.
>>2677754>>2677757Thanks for the input! And how is the AMS thing, if I’m going to be splurging? I know the Prusa version is trash, does the bambu one work well?
>>2676444Soapy water, fuck ipa.What material? If PLA then personally I'd lower the bed temp. Make sure the bed is level.
>>2677450Sauce on that file?
>>2677668In that case, it's better to lift the part off the bed by 6mm and use supports to cradle the part.
>>2677760It's "better" than Prusa's MMU, but it's still far from reliable in my opinion. If you do some very minor mods to it and use specific brands and varieties of filament, it can be very good. Plenty of people have extremely good experiences with the AMS, often those same people are only using Bambu branded filament.
>>2677835Okay, I’ll give the MMU a miss! Just clicked purchase on the P1S, time to throw my ender up on ebay.
>Being this paranoid about Resin PrintingKWAB
>>2677856Might be good for those people that run the printer in their living room or bedroom, though.
>buy $150 printer>spend $400 in upgrades/fixes>printer worse than a $550 printerEvery time
>>2676913It's much better to just buy a ~5W laser diode, bolt it to your printer, spray black lacquer onto the FR4, and burn it away with the laser. I recommend using Lightburn's offset infill. Pic related, though it's from before I added laser thickness correction to my SVG processing script. I'm currently constructing a quick-change tool holder to swap between the laser and a drill. I'll need to write another script to convert the drill gerber to G-code, but it should be reasonably straightforward. Getting the solder mask thin enough to burn easily (without burning the FR4) is proving tough though.UVtools via a resin printer also works decently, though I found the contrast wasn't good enough for my chinky dry film photoresist with a single mono LCD. Double LCD or DLP would almost certainly work perfectly. If you can find a printer with a broken tray, stepper motor, linear rail, etc. you can likely get it a lot cheaper than new.I think it would be possible to do liquid solder mask squeezed via FEP film with an MSLA printer. I found it cured well but stuck too much to the transparency I was using.
>>2677760>AMSknow that cardboard spools won't always work in AMS. you have to mod the cardboard spool (or put tape on the edges) or respool onto a plastic spool. AMS works great for supports with bambu brand support materials. very good quality.
Hey Anon, I need some help. My Ender-3 S1 is scratching the model with fan frame while print. How to fix it?
>>2677936Print a new fan shroud
>>2677902Go on, anon. What did you spend 400€ in upgrades on? It's not like 550€ is still unenclosed bedslinger tier..
>>2677902shoulda bought a bambu
>>2677902>buy ender 3>Go over whole printer tightening loose bolts adjusting wheels etc>decide to do z belt mod>40 USDBest mod I ever did desu, none of that gantry moving fractions of a mm people acting like its not a big deal when .1 mm is enough to have bad adhesion.also recomment>direct drive mini sherpa>downside is needing a new cooling system>use hero me >surprisingly works greatAlso 32 bit controller board, and you're set. IDK what 400 dollars you dropped but I feel bad for you anon.
>>2678017Sure it was the belt mod and not just a sudden double Z?
Sup print-niggers!Back in 2019 I got a unused CR-10 mini for free by a colleague.Now when I decided to give it some new life. And I also want to learn to mod a printer.So far I have bought a clone bltouchAnd a skr E3 mini V2.Plus a direct drive unit from 3d prima.What other kind of upgrades can I do?Will a Z belt mod be worth it?
>>2677760>>2677925I have a lot of trouble with cheap black plastic spools, they're fine at first but then warp. For cardboard you can print collars. The other problem is occasionally a spool + small amount of filament is just too fucking light to pull back. I need to redesign the spool to spool jig I printed, it's full of unnecessary mechanics and parts but they didn't even secure the bases.Oh the cups also get roached by filament. There are shields you can print tho, I haven't bothered.
>>2675810Printing outside today, how're y'alls printers holding up?
>>2678147Mine's idling and pissing itself ready to print the next big upgrade™
>want to add second Z limit switch to 3D printer so my drill bit can touch off on it>measure existing switch with DMM>it's using the "normally closed" contacts so I can't just put the switches in parallelI think they just go in series? Yeah that makes sense.
I bought a Anycube Photon S used about a year ago for $200. At the time it had the usual stuff that came with the printer minus a power brick. Along with a fingernail dryer as the lights, and solar turntable.I have been fdm printing for about 6 years now and always wanted to try, so i did and don't like it. Now i want to get rid of this printer again on the used market. I still have everything but the turntable and i bought a new power brick.Is this still a $200 CAD used setup?
>>2677969Thanks, anon. I'll file it away for educational reasons.
>>2678285Things must be different in Canada. Even a year ago that was a $60USD setup. You can get a better printer brand-new for $100-$160USD. Are resin printers overpriced up there in Canadialand?
>>2678075>direct drive unit from 3d primaSup, retard. This could be anything. If you haven't yet, get an ABL probe like bl-touch or superpinda.>>2678147Dreaming of ABS, shitting PETG.>>2678280>go in seriesPretty much.
>>2678280>>2678299There we have it. Having auto-tool height sensing feels more advanced than a lot of the cheap CNC routers out there. With any luck I'll be auto-drilling PCB holes any day now.
>>2678309Clever wiring there, good job anon.
>Still ships with OSHW logo>Still hasn't released any schematicsAt this point i'm convinced he's just testing the waters on how much he can shit on his supporters. Can't wait till they actually compare him to Jobs.
>>2678070>https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3This is the mod I am referring to. There is new versions where you can use two motors, but I find that to be useless unless you have controller board to independently control each one.
>achieved +/- 0.002" with glass fiber nylonnow to repeat the feat with annealed parts
>>2678320>no mains heated bed>no heat-sinks on stepper driverslooks kinda shit
>>2678372It's extremely expensive shit.
What's the cheapest method(printer or printer + upgrade?) for me to get a fast printer (20mm^3/s+??) to print functional parts quickly?
>>2678390My guess is k3ps + accelerometer for input shaping + tuning of linear advance and temperature and stuff. Maybe a custom high-flow hot-end like a volcano or whatever.Disclaimer:I don't actually know how fast 20mm^3/s is.
>>2675810can i flip the magnetic bed that came with the bambu and print ABS on the engineering plate side (with glue stick)? or would the higher bed temps ruin the side intended for PLA?
>>2678390You can easily reach 20mm3/s on some clapped out ender3. Get a cheat volcano clone hotend, get a 0.8mm clone CHT volcano nozzle and print 60mm/s at 0.4 layer height
>>2678459Cheap volcano clone*
>>2678390>>2678395The thing is, I am all for suggesting kp3s Ihave one with printed base mod, and I have a kp3s pro.But the printable options are limited as hell. After I switched to a clone V6, it was too short for stock parts cooling duct and had to do a herome setup since thats the only one at the time with adjustable part cooling ducts.On my pro I just did all metal heatbreak on that v5 they have.Actually I will keep what I already typed, but it seems there is a parts cooling duct for volcano hotends on titan extruder kp3s>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5331554
>>2678454I print everything on the cool plate with glue stick: PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG. Everything except PLA printed at 70C bed temp min, I go up to 80C. The cool plate used to say PLA/PETG/ABS but they changed it shortly after my generation of printer. This is ABS.Also REEEE why the fuck can't I change the ACTUAL defaults in bambu lab slicer, god damn flush to infill got me again.
>>2678499Why are you not using Orca Slicer? Use Orca Slicer.
just realized my resin expired last month and that resin can even expire, think il find random stuff to print to use it up
>>2675823who the hell cares about made in America in the current year? like your industrial core produces anything worthwhile and quality anymore. laughable.
>>2678515god dammit fuck you fuck off, I'm installing it okay. for fucks sake.
Pouring resin down the drain is bad, is it safe to use UV light on the little bit of excess resin leftover in the resin vat or will that eventually damage it / cake up layers?Same question for print plate
>>2678729Why not wash it into a container other than the resin vat and cure it in there? Like a paper cup or snap-lock bag.
>>2678729I think you're supposed to pour/wipe it out uncured. Resin curing to the display or vat is very bad and hard to remove.Also you can pour the resin back in the bottle and reuse.
How do you access the hidden settings in Orca then? Everything is a fucking video. Like for example how do I show z gap for supports?
>>2678752>>2678769I pour most of it back with a plastic scraper and a filter, but there’s always that little bit that sticks aroundAlcohol helps get rid of it, but using a vat of alcohol is a lot of it so i want to avoid thatMight just have to reuse the tub
>just wrote code that automatically generates drill gcode files for pcbsprepare yourselves
Any alternatives to freecad for adding chamfers without getting dragged into subscriptions and cloud shit? It does work, but i'm getting tired of it constantly crashing.>>2678390Mod some used ender, if you know what you're doing/going for. Otherwise KP3S, SV06 depending on your budget.
>>2678902OnShape but it's always onlineFusion360 but it's hard to learn/convoluted
>>2678915>Fusion360 but it's hard to learn/convolutedAnon is coming from freecad. They literally work the exact same way. Also its cloud, so not remotely close to what hes asking for.
>>2678919well fuck off or make a better suggestion faggot
>>2678921I'd suggest Fusion360, but anon apparently likes to do their shit innawoods with no internet so anything "cloud" in unacceptable.
>>2678922>anon apparently likes to do their shit innawoods with no internet so anything "cloud" in unacceptablePretty much and wait till i tell you it has to run on Linux as well.Jokes aside, i know chances are slim, but gotta check once in a while if maybe i just missed something.
>>2678962Fusion360 works offline, and runs extremely well on Linux through Wine.
thoughts on the creality 3d scanner, been thinking of investing in some sort of scanner and i can pick one up for 420 leaf bucks
>>2678922>but anon apparently likes to do their shit innawoods with no internet so anything "cloud" in unacceptable.Look at this retard who is giving away his IP rights to autodesk to use and sell to 3rd parties.
>>2679044Look at this retard who hasn't read the Fusion 360 ToS.
>>2678973>>2678902https://github.com/cryinkfly/Autodesk-Fusion-360-for-Linux/Havn't tried it recently, it's supposed to work.
>>2679116Runs well on my Steam Deck, which runs Arch, btw.
hopefully a softball baby question. what can be done about this? vertical circles/ semicircles are printed squashed.
>>2679120should maybe mention currently do not have any part cooling. is this the result of each layer being too hot and flattening?
>>2679121overhangs need part cooling otherwise they sag, though i don't know if you're doing internal or external circles, if it's external then the bottom would sag so it would actually be bigger
About to buy a Peopoly Phenom Forge, any objections?
>>2679124right should have clarified. this is actually manifesting in semicircles which should print without any support.
>>2679127Does it happen only on circular features? If everything you print is squashed then it's likely just your Z steps-per-mm ratio being wrong. If it is just on circular features, I'd guess an anomaly in your stl or slicer.
>>2679129i havent checked yet,its just most obvious with the circles. but is Z steps-per-mm usually adjustable with messing with firmware?
>>2679131>but is Z steps-per-mm usually adjustable with messing with firmware?Depends on the printer, but I think it should be in the settings accessible on the printer's own screen. Otherwise it may be a matter of plugging in via USB like you would to perform a PID autotune. I doubt you'd have to recompile Marlin.Also check that your Z rails/belts are in good nick, and aren't binding or slipping. Run the printer up 100mm and down again to see if it comes back to the same spot.
>>2679134thanks. will poke around and see
Just bought an Elegoo Neptune 3 ProWhat should I print first when it gets here?
New to 3d printing but I picked up the new Ender 3 v3 SE and it seems to do pretty good on mostly default settings. Vase mode definitely speeds things up
Alright I switched to Orca and this shit is still happening. How tf do I manage infill color? Note the face, fingers and scarf section.
>>2677856Seems like curing is a good idea.https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8600644/
I've been using cura, can I get a QRD on slicers?The supports it generates are a bit too dense and annoying for my liking, is there any good way to generate them differently or preview what they look like?I'm assuming that slicers generate the raw move instructions for the printer. But I've also heard that "Vase mode" or similar can have issues, how come?
>>2679388I like orca, but allegedly prusa is the best.
>>2679407yeah orca a best, tf?>>2679388do you know what vase mode is? a single line that prints the bottom and outline of a solid shape. if you have flat planes (too horizontal) going up or it's not a solid shape you get issues because it's one path up. it's best for vases and keeps them from leaking. there is no z seam.tree supports are often better than traditional supports and you have a lot of control. cura seems to have more control over supports than orca/bambu, but recently the default supports in bambu have been really good. i don't know what they changed and I haven't compared in orca yet. You might as well switch to orca and play around, it's supposedly better but I only just switched.
>>2679388vase mode illustration, note you're slicing a solid shape
>download files for a printable airsoft rifle shell>3dviewer won't open the files>use my slicer instead to view them and organize>accidentally drop one on the desktop and double click it>it opensWhy is my 3dviewer only working on files on my desktop, but won't work with anything that's in a folder?
>>2679388Orca and PrusaSlicer, not much reason to consider anything else right now, both are phenomenal.
>>2679388in cura yes there's loads of ways to mess with the supports. most of these settings are not visible by default so you'll have to enable them yourself. top right, there's a box that has your object name in it, clicking that opens the general settings. then there's a little button if you hover over 'Support' in this menu, it's three lines with some dots on them. that'll open this settings visibility menu and show you all the settings options you can mess with. there's one that's 'support density' and that might be exactly what you want. you can also find settings by searching for them specifically and will display them even if their visibility isnt enabled.to preview them, after slicing hit 'preview' and then on the center top of the window should be a bar that says 'Color Scheme' click that, and then make sure 'helpers' is ticked and it'll show you the supports in blue.I've kinda assumed you're completely clueless because I've found that giving instructions to someone and assuming otherwise can be the opposite of helpful
now you have heard about 3D printing, but have you heard about MASS-PRODUCTION 3-D PRINTING?
>>2679433>Efficiency is fantasy, made up by the bourgeoise Chinese factory owners in order to oppress you.
I bought a Anycubic Photo years ago and never touched it because I'm stupid/lazyI wanna start 3D printing ZBrush models, is it still any good? Should I bother or get a brand new one and hope I won't be stupid/lazy this time.>>2678285Are you sorta me?
>>2679578Sorry, Photon S
>>2679580the resin might have expired. regardless shake well and try it, other wise you should be fine.
>>2678372The metal case is the heat sink for the drivers.
>>2679617Is the board pressed flat against the back panel? Even then it's not brilliant, I imagine the case is just a thin bit of steel. Might be able to dump a couple of watts from each driver.
just ordered the Ender-3 V2 neo, how'd I do ladsI'm eager to start printing shit and posting it here
>>2679700right before Ender 3 V3 release?
>>2679617I don't think you know what a heatsink is.>>2679669It's mounted on standoffs, of course, and there are no heatsinks. However, those drives have big thermal pads on the underside, each soldered to a big pile of vias. They do a very good job of dissipating heat through the board. Prusa is still retarded for not using active cooling on their printers.
>>2679700It's ok. There's nothing glaringly wrong with it that you'll want to immediately upgrade from. It has belt tensioners, a bed level probe, a PEI bed, a 32-bit board, silent stepper drivers, etc.The first thing I'd consider upgrading would be dual-Z, rigidity via tie-rods, a new hot-end, maybe an enclosure or direct-drive. Though it depends on what you plan to do with it.>>2679705What's new in the V3? And how does it compare to the V2 Neo and the S1?
>>2679706>It's mounted on standoffsThere are some boards deliberately designed to have a completely flat side. Like this RGBduino, pic related is the back. All the socket headers are SMD soldered, which means you can't actually use it with arduino uno shields so it's half useless.I programmed the onboard buzzer to play megalovania.
>>2679707>What's new in the V3? And how does it compare to the V2 Neo and the S1?we don't know. we will know in a week
What does the Bambu P1P/P1S use for Z calibration? I can't find this somehow. I'm probably retarded though.
>>2677700>I want it larger than and standard printer will printHow large do you want it? "Standard" printers go up to half a meter cubed.
>>2676454Printing supports tight to a printed surface will cause them to fuse. With a gap (as specified by the motion system), the extruded filament will drape onto the underlying surface without squishing or fusing much. Successive layers will make up the difference in layer height.
>>2677941>It's not like 550€ is still unenclosed bedslinger tier..Gotta go up an order of magnitude for the Lulzbots mentioned in the OP guide.
>>2679759>up to half a meter cubedAbout that size, roughly twice the size of an Ender 3 bed. Most printers only go up to 300 for the larger ones. I know there are larger ones available, but they are also very expensive and take up too much space. Not really worth upgrading to something like that just for a single print.I plan to upgrade to a higher-end printer in the future, but I am waiting for the next iteration of Bambu Labs type of printers
>>2679118Steam deck runs the bleeding-edge version of wine, that's how they get all those pc games to run. As far as I know, Valve is driving all development in wine at the moment.
>>2679748It appears to use sensorless homing, which uses a feature in many stepper drivers called stallguard, I think. Basically the stepper driver looks for a change in current to the stepper caused by the stepper meeting resistance from running the printhead or gantry into something
>>26798813 piezo sensors within the bed assembly. https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/heatbed-sensor-unit
okay so I want to try this building a printer thing...I want to build a small one firstdo I build>voron 0.2>the 100>panda mini>rookanyone built one of these? or something else entirelyrecommendations?
>>2679884Do a Rook because it's cheap, simple, and plenty good enough to be worth owning.Do the 100 because you GOTTA GO FAST but still don't want to break the bank, and you're willing to put in more effort.Do the Voron because you want a painfully good printer, and you're willing to pay it forward with blood, cash, and the time required to not just build one, but actually build a good one.Build a Panda Mini because Vorons are too popular and you want to spend as much Patreon money as possible on a great printer that'll also make for a great series of build videos with clickbait thumbnails.
>>2679274>Ender 3 v3I also bought one, just 200 dollars, its a steal, for sure it dominates the budget market. I used to have the ender 3 v2 but the non direct drive was a killer. This one is pretty good. >>2675810So anyone have any good print ideas? I tried printing some gun replica models (non functional) but the 1mm wall it always fucks up no matter what. Not sure if I want to do a semi auto crossbow again as its a pain in the ass to make one.Anything else cool in the last few months?
>>2679707>>2679712v3 basically has all the tweaks that you want to print in better quality once you run a v2 for a while. Direct drive and its sprite head is all metal. It tugs along the filament nicely. It has a build in automatic bed leveling, also z axis offset is automatic (but flimsy by my own experience). Yea the biggest benefit is the immediate step up in quality, but also speed. Dual z axis. Like I said, it has all the things that you want if you run a v2 for a while. And you dont have to mess with the menu since it has the features you want already. Near 200 dollar and entry level, look no further, there is nothing better.
>>2676178the original ender 3 comes with a screw adjuster here instead of the knob, so people have made designs for this already.maybe creality will sell you a replacement
>>2679433Unironically, it depends on what you're "mass manufacturing"
hello niggas, i'm slowly building a 3d printer farm, I currently have one p1p and ive ordered a p1s. Every time i get a filament spool i always calibrate the pressure advance and I stick a label on each spool and I select the correct spool in the slicer every time so this way i have a kind of "inventory" of my materials that are calibrated after the first use.my question is do i have to have a separate setting for the PA for the p1s since its a different printer or would they be identical since the hot end is basically the same? do I have to calibrate new spools on both printers now?
>>2679896>Direct drive>Dual z axisHow's that different to the Ender 3 S1?
>me>spend life drawing, esp. people>git gud>buy ipad pro this year>try nomad sculpt>holy fuck its easier than drawing>can pretty much sculpt anything I wantCan I make money with this? I always wrote off working for a studio, but it would be super cool to make a few extra bucks cranking out a request on the side once a month or something.
>>2679961sometimes i have clients that need something printer from a picture, what are you expecting price-wise? i can give you some projects from time to time
>>2679961Just saw a post on fb from someone wanting to know if there was a way to create a 3D model of their labrador that just died so he could print it to give to his kids. Not the first time I have seen that question. Could probably make money doing that if you can model things efficiently. It wouldn't make sense if you charge $100 but it takes you 4 days to madel it.
>>2679787>roughly twice the size of an Ender 3 bedSo a CR-10 Max.
>>2679967I don't have a CR-10 Max and don't want to spend $800 on one for a single print. I am waiting for Bambu to come out with an X1L, which is expected sometime in the next 6 months or so, but even then I will probably need to split the model
>>2679884>waiting for Bambu to come out with an X1L, which is expected sometime in the next 6 months or soExpected by whom?>>2679961Besides the other suggestions, might also look into DnD characters and such. Especially the 40k crowd is huge on spending for custom models.>>2679884>the 100>rookShit.>voron 0.2Tried and tested. Hard to fuck up.>panda miniDunno who actually built one, but looks like a usable ABS machine. Also less custom parts like the Voron. Would be the most interesting option for me as well.
>>2679965you get the shovel, i'll get the 3d scanner, we'll make megabux i'm sure
>>2680033I mean the only reason to do this in the first place is A) if you had a problem or 2) you're autistic.So don't bother doing it with the p1s and see if you have another problem. If you have a problem you need to do it. If otoh you're simply autistic then you will have to answer because nobody else here is that autistic.t. I have shoved every kind of filament down two printers and never bothered with a single calibration, not cube not flow not fucking nothing.
>>2680002any Labrador will. I found this for various prices and it looked like my neighbors dog. I found free versions of the head of said dog and the body in that pose of another. I spliced them and low poly the results and didn't upload my low poly fucking bullshit for money because I'm not a faggot. but if you want to that's how you do it, remix free shit and crank out low poly versions and charge for them hoping someone is desperate enough to throw you a few bux.
>>2679961if you can accept /tg/ niggers stealing everything you do and are good enough to do a kickstarter or attract a paypig than you can't go wrong. what is nomad sculpt? it's fucking apple specific isn't it.
>>2680045>because nobody else here is that autistic.Is that a challenge?
Hello my fellow 3d printing racists.I have recently setup my Creality Halot One and have had my first print fail. It solidified on the bottom of the vat chamber and was quite gay.I'm trying my second print now and hopefully it goes better.I want to download lots of warhammer models for free because I am a racist nigger. Where do you suggest I get high quality warhammer models from? Thingiverse is cucked and doesn't have any.Thanks!
>>2680232>wrong board>diy board>3d printing threadyou've been inhaling those resin fumes, haven't ya?
>>2679706>I don't think you know what a heatsink is.A mass of metal meant to soak up heat and transfer it to the ambient medium. Doesn't need to have fins.
>>2677629i don't think soif it's printed upright then it would be weakened across the standoffthese standoffs have to support the weight of the parts
>>2680234>Warhammer models>DiyAnon I ...
>>2680228Wrong board. >>>/tg/3dpg>>2680234We don't huff acrylic here.>>2680252Right, and you think the steel case is a heatsink to the board despite them only being attached by standoffs, isolating the board from the case. Protip, if there's a 4mm air gap, it's not going to transfer heat well.
How hard is ABS to print on a stock ender 3 pro?I have been out of the game for several years. I need to print something functional today, and ABS is the only thing I can find. I bought it and printed with it
>>2680309Slap it in an enclosure, you're good to go.
>>2679956more complete package, more modern in various other ways. Dont bother with any other printers unless you need 300x300 for that price range just dont
>>2680301There are heatpads on the driver backsides that connect them to the case.
>>2680309>I bought it and printed with itso, what is the problem?
Looking into upgrading to a direct extruder, what's the hype of the orbiter about, when the sherpa mini/micro seems to beat it in every category, but raw strength?
>>2680356Thank you for explaining, had to go to the MK4 assembly guide just to see it.
>>2677565Mega S is the most based machine of Anycubic. Mine:>stock mainboard>silent drivers>volcano hotend, 0,6 nozzle (probably redundant since CHT)>mosfets>no part cooling because I can't be bothered to mount it and it werks fine with PETG>octoprint>bondtech clone extruder>stock print profile in cura>bed was setted and forgettedIt just werks. And werks, and werks. It's the VW Käfer of 3d printing.
>>2680420Forgot:>bi-metal heatbreak and silent fanHeatbreak is probably the only upgrade that's -really- needed, because of PTFE tube degradation.
>>2680427I've got an anycubic kobra neo, and after about 3 months of use the degradation on the ptfe tube heatbreak was immediately apparent with some visual warping and discoloration, so I can back that up.
>>2680228you should get some glow in the dark resin to go with that post
>>2680294>if it's printed uprightdid I say turn it upright? read it again einstein.
What would you make of this first layer? Some places it’s spot on others it’s like I’m printing nothing at all. Warped bed?
>>2680608I get that on my delta too, it's not as extreme but definitely noticeable. I have no idea why
>>2680525ok then, genius, tell me this: in which direction should i turn it 90º?
>>2680643That anon is retarded but he is also right, it would probably be easier to print if the slot is vertical, meaning cockwise or anticockwise
My coworker has a Sovol SV07 I think. And it keeps shitting filament under the silicone sock and entombing the hot end. Is this a known issue? Apparently the newer units have cooling fans on both sides of the nozzle, while his only has one, and he thinks that might be causing the filament to curve in that one direction. I told him to just ditch the stock part cooling if not the entire hot end.Anyone else had this issue?
I tuned my flow ratio with Orca calibration and everything looks good at 1.045 but on an actual print I'm getting over extrusion on the top layer. Lowered it back down to 0.98 and it looks much better. Anyone know why?
>>2675810>People are genuinely believing bambu is making a multiplexer that would be compatible with anything that's NOT a bambu
>>2679120e-steps are the stepper motors travel steps to a distance if they are wrong then the dimensions will be off
>>26806439000 hours in GIMP.
I'm printing a jig to mill out 80% AR lowers. how many walls should i choose in the slicer?how fast can i print with an elegoo neptune 2?
>>2680730depends just do it solid 100% for a rigid block linewith just means how thick before infill begins between features
>>2680647i made some modifications after a test print and now it looks like a cock
>>2680420>>2680427Hey Mega S bro, i since found a machine with a broken board for 45€, so i went in. I'm now waiting for >FLY RRF E3 PRO (yeah, it's gonna be RepRap)>CHT clone>Bi metal heatbreakAnd endless plans about a direct extruder. For that i found the following; simply putting an orbiter right on top.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5275563>mosfetsWhat do you mean by that, buying extra mosfets to solder on your board?>stock print profile in curaGood to know that works.>bed was setted and forgettedAny issues with springs, did you change to spacers?>It just werks. And werks, and werks. It's the VW Käfer of 3d printing.Hope it'll do the same for me.
>>2680643good lord there are only 3 axis how fucking difficult is this for you?
>>2680760>i went inGood for you! Your plan sounds solid, keep us posted please.>mosfetspic related, I've got two of them so that power draw on the mainboard is kept to a minimum, more of a precaution because of my volcano hotend>profilehttps://github.com/NilsRo/Cura_Anycubic_MegaS_ProfileIt's this one, I'll throw out the extrusion at the start because I use a brim anyway>springsno issues at all>Hope it'll do the same for me.yes^^
Wait, is the most high-power thing in a 3D printer the bed heater? Like mine has a 350W PSU in there, but the hot end is only 70W, and I can't imagine the stepper drivers use anywhere near as much as the bed. Couldn't mains-bed 3D printers actually be a lot cheaper by using a lower-power PSU? All you need is a TRIAC circuit, and some good electrical insulation.
is there really nothing that matches the p1s at its price point? im hesitant spending that much money on a hobby and especially on el chinko proprietary shit.
>>2680916>Wait, is the most high-power thing in a 3D printer the bed heater?yes, 200-300w+ usually>Couldn't mains-bed 3D printers actually be a lot cheaper by using a lower-power PSU?going 350w to 150w saves so little if any money for manufacturers its not worth it, its like how for example nowadays a sub 32gb usb/sd far more expensive per gb than a 64-1024gb one because the economy of scale has shifted. plus then you need (>china >"need") safety systems to keep 120v in check to not kill the user and/or burn their house down anyway, so it ends up being even more expensive in the long run.
>>2680378For starters you can get a genuine unit with an original LDO motor, taxes included, for the same price it costs to get a maybe knockoff from China. Second for 94% of users super high speed printing doesn't matter and more precision at lower speeds is favourable.>https://www.3djake.com/ldo-motors/orbiter-extruder-v20>>2680608If it's one straight direction, maybe bed. Else Kinematics. Try using a probe.>>2680654Honestly, try to ditch it while it's relatively new and get a SV06 plus instead.>>2680916>Wait, is the most high-power thing in a 3D printer the bed heater?Yes. There's a reason why proportionally more Euros are doing mains heater mods.
Did I do it right?
>>2681035lookin good brudda
How much is reasonable for IPA/Gallon? Local chem shop is selling at $15/GallonAlso I heard that IPA is resusable if you leave it out in a glass jug in the sun, is that true?
>>2680675>compatible how tho?
>>2680916>Couldn't mains-bed 3D printers actually be a lot cheaper by using a lower-power PSU?Only for large format printers that need a lot more power for the bed.
>>2681176I'd assume $15 / gal is reasonable. There is a little more to it than just "leave it in the sun senpai" but essentially yes.
>>2680378It works well and it's very convenient with the filament sensor attachment.
>>2681176For 99%, that's a good price. For 91%, fuck no, $6/gal.
>>2681176The leaving it out in the sun thing can help to clean up ISO you've been using to clean resin prints. Resin ends up distributed in the ISO, you throw it in the sun and it cures and precipitates out. This is far from perfect, light can only penetrate so deep depending on how filthy the ISO is. Giving it frequent vigorous shakes will keep it from caking on the sides of the container and blocking light from reaching the interior. When enough is precipitated out and the ISO is much less cloudy, you run it through a strainer/filter like cheesecloth or a coffee filter to remove the solids. Leave that mess of grit out in the sun for a day to fully cure before throwing it away. People have gone more extreme than this with automated setups, looping pipes around UV lights while recirculating through a filter, that sort of stuff. It's not perfect, but it gets you most of the way there. Over time, your ISO will absorb moisture from the air, there's no avoiding it, while some of the alcohol content evaporates off. 99% ISO is recommended because any water can decrease the effectiveness of your cleaning, and make it harder to get a clean finished model with no haze/streaks/buildup on it. So with your ISO weakening over time, it'll gradually become worse, and filtering won't help it at that point. Highly recommend keeping your nasty cleaning ISO separate from a small amount of good clean 99% that's just for final rinses. When that "clean" supply is made dirty enough, toss it into the shit you reuse and pop open a fresh bottle. ISO is cheap, Amazon basics brand 99% is $10/gal when buying 3 gallons at a time, and comes in 16oz bottles so you can keep a supply on hand without opening/contaminating all of it.
>>2681232>Amazon basics brand 99% is $10/gal when buying 3 gallons at a time12x 16oz is 1.5 gallons, which makes it $20/gal.
>>2681314I thought it was quart bottles, but I only see the pints, you're right.
>>2681200what about normal-sized 3d printers where you want the bed to take less than 5 minutes to heat up?
Board tourist here. I have inherited a Makeit Pro-M. Obscure printer which I can no longer buy replacement parts for. Thing is falling apart at every seam.Any good printers at moderate prices with dual extruders? Thanks, fellas.
>>2681421Creality CRX Pro is ok, but a bambu with filament changer is a lot better. There are also some printers with dual hot ends that make dual filament printing quick and less wasteful.If you’re up for it and your printer has some decent parts (e.g. 32-bit mainboard, steppers, extrusions, maybe the hot end) you could try to rebuild a printer with some of its parts. Though doing this will probably require a 3D printer to make the parts on, and it’s hardly straightforward. But maybe just swapping the belts and bearings and lead screws and linear rods will be enough to breathe life back into it.You could also transplant the dual hot end onto any other printer of choice, maybe after printing an adapter bracket.
My first printer. K1 or P1P as a beginner? Heard a lot of bad reviews for K1. Cost wise is acceptable for me. But for long term, should I consider P1P instead?
>>2680730where can i dl this STL?
>>2681538The K1 is a piece of shit.
>>2681538P1S? Why P?
>>2681382That's a usability benefit, not a cost benefit.
>>2681464Not the guy you are replying to but, I found out that for more delicate parts, the benefit of having a dual hot end, or something to switch is nearly mandatory. Because you can get this filament that is water soluble, to be used in the supports and oh boy, the supports for more intricate parts are a bitch to remove. But just dip that thing in water and the supports are gone. Now that seems like another big improvement. You can print the supports as thick and huge as possible and a bit of water will wash them away without any damage to the print.
>>2681538P1S.>>2681601People still use water solvable filament? I genuinely thought that fad was over. Are you designing some kind of injection machinery to reach this level of complexity? I don't think I had any part of the last 4 years where inner support couldn't be avoided by proper design or simple bridging.
>>2681601>>2681639Wasn't supposed to be too much of a personal attack. I'm just genuinely surprised.
I was flexing my super cool 3D printed lantern and now the nerdy girl at work wants me to print her some DND figures.
Here's something I 3d printed.I couldn't print the full bottom cause I messed up so I had to hot glue it.
Can someone convince me that PETG ain't worth the headache as my "main" filament, and that I should just stick to PLA+? I can almost get PETG perfect but there's slight issues (especially with overhangs/bridges), and the shiny finish isn't great. I'm just autistic about material performance and PETG seems to be better than PLA+ in pretty much every metric.
>>2681538Get P1S, it's $100 more but it's worth it for the enclosure/extra fans, lets you print ABS/ASA down the line if you decide you need it. I got one (about a month ago) and it just worksTM.
>>2681677Switch to ASA instead.
>>2681677What do you want PETG for? It's a pointless material in my mind. PLA is stronger, PLA+ has better impact resistance, ABS and ASA handle higher temperatures, pretty much everything is easier to print with. PETG is kind of shit.
>>2681646Go get her, champ.
>>2681720Do I want to get her though?
>>2681693really? I heard it was pretty much better than PLA+ in everything (strength, impact resistance, durability, temperature resist, flexes slightly instead of breaking instantly), like it's one flaw is that it's not great at bridging/overhangs and it can be tricky to print.
>>2681722>It's been three years alreadyhttps://youtu.be/ycGDR752fT0
>>2681725very useful, thanks anon. I think I'll switch to PLA+ after I run out of PETG then
>>2681735>but wait, there's more!https://youtu.be/uAoZCpXoPWo
>>2681738interesting x2, so it looks like PLA+ is just budget PETG in how it fails (e.g. stretches instead of snapping)? very cool
>>2681745It's also pretty much the same price as regular PLA, so there's no reason not to use it. Except where I have specific requirements, I only print PLA+.
>>2681774>pretty much the same price as regular PLAWhere and what do you buy?
>>2681693>PLA+ has better impact resistance>>2681722>>2681725>>2681735>>2681745>>2681774>>2681779every PLA+ brand is different. The + just means "we added shit and can't call it PLA any more". There is not one standard and they each have different shit added and different strengths.
>>2681779Eono or Esun, on amazon.
>>2681781>There is not one standard and they each have different shit added and different strengths.Don't forget that colorants will also change physical properties even within a single brand. Testing is pretty much the only way to check performance.
>>2681781>>2681818Sounds terrible desu. I'd rather stay with usual PLA for prototyping, ASA for kicking.
>>2681821No, it's not terrible. You're simply trading off strength for increased toughness. It's really just application dependent. The colorant problem is also independent of material for PLA, PLA+, ABS, etc. Whites are typically the worst offenders, as plastics tend to need a higher proportion of colorant to get a good white color than any others.
>>2681826Yeah, but from everything written here so far the gist is basically one buying a spool ASA from any vendor and having a good idea what's in there versus buying a spool PLA+ from any vendor and guessing what's it gonna be.
>>2681832Yeah if your printer can reliably do ASA I wouldn't really bother with much else.
has anyone tried putting wallpaper on a 3D printed panel? I'm printing a panel with holes for buttons to go onto, and I don't really want the printline texture on it. Would wallpaper of some kind fucking STICK on that surface and not move? Should I apply a specific kind of glue under it?
Is there any reason we aren't using biodegradable degreaser instead of IPA?I use this concentrate + water to clean resin castings from mould release. I saw a guy on YT test this stuff (the premixed jugs) and apparently it worked better than IPA
>>2681910Lots of people do. Problem is that biodegradability stops mattering when you mix toxic goo into it. With IPA, you can cure out the majority of the resin and reuse the IPA so long as the water content doesn't get too high, at which point it can be distilled and chemically dried back to 99% again. With your bottle of simple green, it becomes a toxic mess, you throw it into a landfill, and that's the whole process.
>>2681721Yes. Obviously. Look at what you wrote above.
>>2681961She's just the next woman using me for my wits, except she's also a kuso nerd.
>>2681966Are you making excuses to yourself to avoid facing the risk of rejection?
>>2681969Surprisingly no I'm not, even though it looks like that. Just why should I be doing favors for some woman just like that? Even if we end up doing something I probably wouldn't even be able to get my dick up for her. I'm also a virgin, so why should she get the privilege of being my first?
>>2681972>so why should she get the privilege of being my first?Based wizard.
>>2681972>why should she get the privilege of being my first?And i thought this wasn't the /g/ 3dpg thread.
>>2675810https://all3dp.com/4/two-trees-reveals-speed-focused-sk-1-3d-printer/ are we bambu clone nao?
>>2675810I have had a Creality Ender 3 Pro for a year. I have never seen this side extruder fan turn on. Is it broken? Or is it only supposed to come on if the printer is overheating or something?
>>2681196That's the thing.These faggots genuinely tjought that apple of 3D printing would make something for everyone.We'll see what that is in a few days. We already know it's a smaller printer.
>>2682163Isn't that the part cooling fan? Its speed is set from the slicer settings.
>>2680675>>2682204this reminds me, there are a couple companies that rolled out actual compatible multiplexers. Co Print has one that's a cross-compatible MMU, and are launching what looks like a combination klipper pad and ERCF that's cross-compatible soon.
>>2675810Hello, I'm trying to 3d print a custom shaped lightweight mouse for a disabled person. I have a functioning USB connected circuit board from an existing device and want to make a case that will fit a disabled person's weak and uniquely crooked hand. I'm willing to shell out 1k+ for this if it means we can produce such things without too much technical expertise. Assuming I'm able to successfully create an accurate 3d model for the design using calipers (if that's even the best way to do it), which type of printer is considered the most intuitive/painless when it comes to the learning curve? Which would you recommend for the project? Thanks, and please also let me know any tips that come to mind.
>>2681601PVA filament is fucking expensive. These days people print PLA supports for PETG, which apparently separates just fine once it's cooled. I guess the price can be justified if you're printing small amounts of it for high value parts, but that feels more like SLA territory.Once you've got tree supports dialled in, I think people usually find it's removable enough even for delicate parts. But I've never tried it. I print medium-sized practical things where the artefacts resulting from an easily printable model just add to the look.
>>2682355Given the way you're asking: Bambulabs P1S or Prusa Mk4The P1S is better bang for your buck, it's a faster and more capable printer. It's also Chinese as fuck, a "mostly" closed ecosystem, and happy to keep things proprietary.Prusa is overpriced as fuck, and their printers lack in materials quality for their given price, but those are pretty much the only genuine complaints. They're ubiquitous with 3D printing, major contributors (if not consistent) to opensource 3D printing tech and software, and their machines really do work as well as you'd expect a machine at that price point to work.
>>2682355>which type of printer is considered the most intuitive/painless when it comes to the learning curve?One of the nicer modern FDM printers (e.g. the Prusa and Bambu the other anon mentioned) should produce good results with minimal printing-related expertise on your end. I'd advise looking through some basic guides to make sure you're doing things like telling the slicer to make the sort of print you want (e.g. not a vase) and how to orient the model on the build plate and choose basic settings for your use.>Assuming I'm able to successfully create an accurate 3d model for the design using calipers (if that's even the best way to do it)If you don't already have 3D modeling experience, this will probably be the sticking point. Calipers can help, but you need to model smooth ergonomic curves and get those to mesh with the mounting points. You'll probably be testing multiple iterations regardless. Do you already know what you're doing here?
>>2682163>>2682266This is indeed the part cooling fan. It can be manually turned on by going to control->temperature->fan speed on the printer. Mine also rotates for a very short time when turning the printer on.
>>2682163In cura, it's listed under the cooling tab.
>>2682355Unless you want the printer for other purposes, just get it printed at pcbway. Only get a printer if you have multiple uses for it and are prepared for it to become a hobby in its own right.
>its an the entire first layer mashes together episodeGod I hate 3D printing sometimesI still haven't fixed my prints coming out with a weird bulge near the bottom regardless of how close/far the nozzle is
>>2682479Check extrusion multiplier in firmware settings.Check slicer first layer line width settings; what are they?Measure thickness of skirt; is it what it should be?
>>2682355Buy a spool of PLA and dunk strips of it in hot water. Build a first working prototype quickly without a printer.
>>2682480I changed the z-offset and got a better result. I think it needs to be a slightly closerHowever I'm having real trouble getting shit to stick and have little bits come off still. Even at 15mm/s for the first layerI'll have to fuck around more tomorrow this is driving me crazy and I still need to do other shit today
>>2682491second picture is either slightly too far away from bed or underextrusion.As for adhesion, take the glass bed off, clean it thoroughly with dish soap and water, dry with a clean lint-free cloth (or remove paper towel fuzz after with a lint free cloth) and whatever you do do not touch the bed with your hands; oil on your skin will negatively impact adhesion.
>>2682496I have, I think that part of the bed is just fucked from use. I might just flip or over and use gluestickI'm trying to print with no z-hop too as I made sure my x-gantry is level. Maybe I still need z-hop until I finally bother to install Marlin and use mesh leveling
>>2682491Looks too far from the bed. Check e-steps.
>>2675810im building a fleet of 3d printers, currently i have a p1p and a cr10s pro v2 but i dont use the creality because its too slow, so I'm looking to get another addition.I was going to get the P1S but i really like the K1 Max's build volume and since I do custom orders some of them are full helmets and other big items so I really want to get at least one big fast printer. I want to use orca slicer for all my printers and i know they currently added a k1 max profile, my question is would i be missing on any of the features of the k1 max if i dont use creality slicer? (ai camera, networking etc). I'm also expecting a worse print quality than bambu products (i've seen worse overhangs and ringing), however i'm hoping to fix this by using orca slicer since i heard most of it is from the slicer. What can I/must I upgrade hardware-wise to match the print quality of the bambu printers? I don't mind spending money I just want a large format bambu printer but I don't want to go to another company like qidi or build my own printer like a voron or something. I don't mind upgrading the creality machine and the fact that I don't have to connect to their cloud to use networking is very ncie compared to bambu. i also want to try the k1 in case i'm satisfied with it and i would then consider not getting bambu products anymore because of the price difference>tl;dr I want a large format P1P and I'm thinking K1 Max is the answer, what should I do to get P1P print quality and will I miss on features by not using creality slicer
is there a way to repair smooth pei surface? I let some ABS prints cool down and when I took them off they ripped two chunks out of my pei sheet. Any way to use some sort of filler over the holes or do I have to change the pei film?
>display on MK4 already dickedthanks josef
>>2682616>ripped two chunks out of pei sheetimpressive. Show picture with coin for scale
dear diary today my stl broke before I even printed it is there a simple fix to the model becoming a broken mess of lines or is it fucked
>>2682630It's opensource, just fix it yourself!Oh, wait, right, they lied.
>>2682659export it again?
>>2682630That's not what the USB port is for, anon.
Made a FPV goggle set, then made a real time night vision camera onto the front, and projected it through a screen. It's pretty large but I CAN SEE IN THE FUCKING DARK NOW
>>2682738>raspi + raspi camcouldn't you just have used an analogue video camera piped directly to an analogue video monitor like analogue fpv already uses? less latency and cheaper.
My spin-coater with independant 4-jaw chuck made from M8 threaded rod. Hope it doesn't shake itself to pieces. Or melt.I might print out holders for the wingnuts that are easier to spin because it's a bit tedious to adjust these.
>>2682659p-print it anyways
I have taken the garolite pill; hopefully it's as easy to work with as people say. So far, so good
>>2682761I had a pi, IRNV cam and a screen lying around. The latency is minimal with an integrated IRNV. There's a USB reg cam on it too, that has higher latency.
>>2682355Pretty much what >>2682393 said. A P1S will do you fine for other projects as well, but frankly get something cheap or maybe even used from ebay/craigs. Lots of dialed in machines offered by people wo finally moved on to a Voron/other high end machines. Get some cheap PLA spools, prototype it down and order the final part in something like MJF PA12 or even PA11 if you need some elasticity.
>>26802283d printing racist who recently got a resin printer, reporting in againthis thing is EASY MODEit is so much easier to get fantastic quality prints with a chad resin printer than a virgin FDM printer. Why didn't anyone tell me this sooner!?the only gotcha is the toxic chemicals and cancer, but other than that resin printing is INFINITELY better than FDM printing, anyone who says otherwise is a NIGGER
>>2682965Resin printers are so fucking easy to use and I laugh anytime someone in any way compares them to FDM. They are practically made for babies aside from the toxic resin. So insanely easy to use.
>>2682972I think you forgot another metric to resin printers, it increases your homosexuality by 5+...best to avoid them.
So I was looking for weird and unconventional but competitive-to-normal-industry prints and there seem to be a few things that seem to sell a little bithttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBtvCx6eyeAShould I just try a few of these? To sell them on my national second hand site?
>It's another 'extruder motor wire broke in the drag chain' episodeI'm buying a fucking CAN toolhead board I'm sick of this shit
How can I print less safe materials in an apartment with limited ventilation without giving myself VOC aidsIs a bentobox or nevermore alone enough?
>>2683012capture the air in a carbon filter, grind it up, and release it into an orphanage as fine powdered dust.
>>2683028>>2683012a serious post though, a carbon filter of a hepa filter or some other filter that can capture this stuff, they arent that difficult to make, you can probably find some enclosure + space for a simple fan somewhere. They have all sorts of filter sheets depending on what you need to capture.
>>2682965Don't SLA prints warp when curing? Especially with thin models.
Debating an flsun3d superracer, coming from an ender 3 v2Is this a good choice? Neither i nor anyone i personally know is experienced with delta printers, what issues should i be aware of that are specific to them?
>>2682965The strength for functional prints (read: guns) just isn't sufficient
>>2682985>another>multiple>in a drag chainHow? Are you using solid core cables, anon?
>>2683156Depends on the resin and curing parameters.
>>2683166Drag chains aren't a one-size-fits-all solution. It's possible to set them up incorrectly for your application.
Only 390/89 on page 9, shameful.It's >2683175That >>2683175Time >>>2683175Again >>2683175Good >2683175Luck >>2683175Have >>>2683175Fun >>2683175
>>2683166He probably has the cable too tight in the drag chain and it's rubbing on the inner radius.