So, what are our little tailors and seamstresses up to tonight?What is everyone making? Comfy sewing thread go!
>>2621160Got a whole bunch of medium weight jersey I've been meaning to make some comfy leisure shorts out of but I can't bring myself to want to deal with the wrinkly as fuck super thin tissue paper pattern.
>>2621494do it! If this thread is still up when you do it, post results
I lost some weight, so I'm going to take my suits to the tailor to get altered
Why id camo fabric so expensive? Need to get started on my helmet cover project
>>2621807Check with Joanns and check their coupons. They almost always have like 40%
>>2621807If you have an army surplus place near you, try there. They sometimes have rolls of camo fabricn usually cheaper than joanns
>>2621824stack dem coupins
>>2621807>camo fabric>helmet cover projectGo to Good Will. There's gotta be some BDU pants or shirt there. Gonna be cheaper than fabric, already be broken in, and you'll stop some asshole from stealing honor.
I have a canvas (or some other kinda heavy fabric idk) backpack and I want to put some form of back support in it, since I couldn't find anything that wouldn't cost a kidney. What would be the easiest way to go about it? I was thinking making a frame of some light metal rods.
>>2622118What are you using the bag for? I'd recommend just getting an external pack frame if it doesn't need to be light or nice looking.
>>2622136I basically take it everywhere i go, but the main use is at college with a notebook, sometimes a laptop, and a lot of miscellaneous crap that folds the bottom and keeps jumping up and down. There are internal divisions, so an external frame that covers the bottom is my main focus, but if i'm already doing one why not just do both. All the external frames I found were either expensive (third world poor here) to the point that i could get a bag that solves this problem or is too big.thinking something like this and the rods stitched to it or pvc panels, whichever is easier.
>>2622083>>2621832>>2621824>>2621808Good ideas thanks
>>2622250Plastic or foamular boards can be had for cheap. Easy to work with too.
>>2621160this year i#ve done 2 complete rennaissance outfits completely by handmy fingers were literaly bleeding at the end from the thread slowly shaving away my skin
>>2622250I wouldn’t go with rods, they might start to hurt after a while. But if you take some foam and sew fabric around it tightly, you can get a pretty strong frame without using fully rigid parts.If you put a frame like in your pic, you won’t be able to stuff it into a tight space anymore. I have an Osprey backpack and they use a kind of curved tent pole to keep it in shape and upright, that could be an idea
>>2622250Maybe make a PVC pipe frame? Alternatively get fiberglass road markers and bend them to shape. Look up bushcraft pack frames and take inspiration from that.
>>2622392Nice job, doing it by hand gives you extra street cred you know.General supply question: Looking to get a rotary cutter and self healing mat, what's better for general purpose use, a 60mm or 45mm blade?
>>2622411For most cutting jobs, where you're cutting single or double layer fabric, the 45mm is fine. Like if you're making clothes. The 45mm is a little more maneuverable for small curves like necklines and armscyes. If you're a quilter and cutting multiple stacks of fabric for strip quilts, the 60mm is better. If you work with heavier fabrics like denim, canvas, or upholstery fabrics, go with the 60mm. I have both, for different fabrics.
>>2622392Get a thimble and leather fingertip grips. A pair of locking hemostats is great for helping pull a needle thru difficult or thick fabrics. If you're having to fight each stitch, you're probably using the wrong needle and/or the wrong thread for the job. Needles are cheap enough that you should toss the dull ones. Typically after about 8 hrs of sewing, you switch to a new needle.
Not sure if this is the right place to post but I'm not sure where else it would go.I'd like to make a wool beanie sorta like pic related with different camouflage patterns>Multicam and its variants>Woodland>etcI'm not sure where to start since I have no experience sewing or doing anything like this, I tried looking up sources for camouflage wool but I can't even find that.I'd like the wool to feel fluffy and not like a synthetic wrap is on top.
>>2622645For things like this, if you have a beanie already, the best thing to do is trace is on some paper and then use that pattern to make your cuts on your material. Sounds like you want it a bit dark, I suggest buying some basic chalk as well for this.
>>2622649Thanks, I thought about that.I'm wondering how to apply a camouflage pattern to wool though, if I have to dye it or if there's anyway to source wool in a pattern.I want to go with merino wool.
>>2622652Just stack it. Have the wool inside of it and then sew it together, make sure to sew it inside out and then pull, sometimes you have to hand stitch that last part
>>2622656I see what you mean, not sure if it would come out like >>2622645 though
>>2622325>>2622399>>2622405I appreciate the sugestions, thanks
>>2622652Normally you’d silk screen press it, or you buy camo fleece, or sacrifice a wool camo scarf. Not sure if you can find them in multicam tho since it’s not really a suitable pattern for wool
>>2622904>Not sure if you can find them in multicam tho since it’s not really a suitable pattern for woolHow come?But yeah you're probably right, I've checked several times and it doesn't seem like anyone carries multicam wool fabrics
>>2623024> How come?Nevermind I was confused with UCP. UCP uses these pixelated blocks that would look blurry on wool because of its long and thick fiber
Any tips for working with sequinned fabrics?
>>2624221I've legit heard it's a pain in the ass.
>>2624230Thanks Anon. I guess.
What’s a good way to make a cylinder ie attach a round bottom to a ‘tube’ of the same fabric? I know to cut the round bottom plus seam allowance and then attach it inside out to the cylindrical part but should I cut triangular notches in the bottom to prevent it from bulking up and won’t that leave me with tiny gaps once I turn it right side out
>>2625118Here's the basic idea: https://www.funkyfriendsfactory.com/blog/put-your-best-foot-forward-how-to-sew-perfect-plushie-feet/Sew first, notch afterwards. You can also baste after pinning, then sew, if the pins bother you. Just make sure you do the math to get the circumference of the cylinder bottom piece to match the circumference of the cylinder correctly. The seamlines must be the same length to avoid puckers.t. plushiemaker
>>2625131Thanks anon this is exactly what I was looking for
>>2625277NP. If you're using the classic 5/8" seam allowance, it works better if you trim it down to 1/4" first and mark you seamlines on both pieces, for more accurate pinning and sewing.
>>2625369But is he a good boy?
>>2625451He is a very good boy, and refrains from boomerish Hump Day postings at his new home.
>>2625369>>2625475Nice. Gotta love camels.
I'm brand new to sewing and I'm making some curtains.When I try to sew a hem, the foot of the machine drags on the top piece of fabric, and the machine pushes the bottom bit of fabric forward from the bottom, so after a couple of feet the fabric gets misaligned.It's straight when I pin it, but as it goes through the machine it gets pushed, and the part that's folded over ends up at an angle.How do I keep the folded part aligned while sewing it?
>>2625882This happens sometimes when your fold isn't completely on grain--either crossgrain, or straight grain. It can also happen if you're trying to push/pull the fabric through, instead of letting the feed dogs move the fabric. Couple of things to try--press the folded up hem, and pin very closely, with the pins perpendicular to the seamline. Pull the pins just as they come under the presser foot. Or you can live dangerously and just sew over them. Not recommended, but doable. Check your machine's manual and see if you can adjust the pressure of the feed dogs. If you can, lower the pressure ever so slightly. If the fabric you're sewing is very light weight, like sheers, you'll find this is a common issue. Sew very slowly, letting the feed dogs do the work of moving the fabric, and just be diligent in aligning the fabric, and not pushing/pulling it. Pressing the fold(s) in place and careful pinning will usually take care of this torque issue, as well as being sure that fold(s) are actually on grain, instead of at a slight angle.
>>2625882for starters, you need to iron it. 2. pin it really good but leave like 2 or 3 inches of space.
>>2625886>>2625889Thanks so much for the tips!I'll give these things a try.I really appreciate it.
>>2625891
Another beginner here. I can’t seem to get around tie-off / lock stitches. Some say tie the loose threads together with a hand needle, but that makes the knot stick out. Other sources tell me to sew over the first and last 4-5 stitches in the opposite direction and just cut the threads off. Others say just sew the ends two times in the same direction. What’s a foolproof way to do it?
I am going to use the robert powers technique to jazz up some dress shirts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83gClh8Uq_E&ab_channel=RobertPowers
>>2626073It depends on how delicate the fabric is. For silks, lightweight stuff like batiste or chiffon, I leave long tails when I cut the thread after sewing, then use a needle to pass one thread to the backside and tie the two threads in a knot by hand. Then trim the tails.For heavier fabric--cottons, denim, wool, etc.--I sew to the end of the seam, and use the reverse lever to stitch forward 2-3 stitches, then sew regular back over the reverse stitches. That locks them at the end of the seam, and you can trim them even with the fabric surface.Some machines have a lockstitch, where the needle basically stitches a few times up and down in the same spot, locking the stitches. I personally don't like the way that looks so I don't do that.You can always hand knot, but not always backstitch.
>>2626079If this photo says anything it looks like the tension isn't high enough
>>2626075I got about 5 minutes in and couldn't watch anymore. He didn't preshrink the fabric, so it's going to shrink and wrinkle the first time it's washed. He cut it on the lengthwise grain, so the shrinkage will be maximized. He ironed the folds instead of pressing--on a filthy ironing board!--so the fabric is stretched. He cut the collar stand strip as a straight piece, when collarstands are almost always curved. I'm out.
>>2626080Picrel is to illustrate lockstitch vs backstitch. So who cares if the tension is off on the rest? You missed the point.
>>2621494Jus iron it with a dry iron. 5 minutes, your done.
>>2626087You think thats bad, you should see him work on shoes!I only watch his content because he is a clone from the future and its interesting to see what humans will someday become
>>2626079Thanks a lot this thread is cool> That locks them at the end of the seamI guess I still fail to understand _how_ the back stitch locks them, but if you’re saying that it just does I’ll go with it.
>>2626223You're basically sewing repeated stitches of the same length in the same spot on top of each other, jamming the threads in the same holes. The top and bobbin threads lock together repeatedly on the fabric, on top of each other, making the end less likely to work its way loose.
got some sheepskinsany tips on doing a vest?I want the wool on the inside because it seems retarded to leave it on the outside but my problem is that the back of the skins are very ugly, with holes and such, so I was thinking about sewing another layer of something on top, but I can't find any tips or info about thisI've never sew anything before but I'm not retardedwhat material could I use as outer layer? I want something natural but at least a little bit waterproofis sewing an outer layer the same as sewing a lining inside?
>>2626448something like this for example
>>2626448>is sewing an outer layer the same as sewing a lining inside?Yeah basically. Find a vest pattern you like. Cut the skins acvordung to the pattern. Cut the outer layer according to the pattern. Assemble the lining pieces (skins). Assemble the outer layer. Join the two units together either by wrapping the edges, like in your second picrel, with a binding, or by laying them wrong sides together, sewing all edges except the armholes, flipping it all rightside out, then binding the armholes.Given the weight of the skinsn go with a heavier fabric for the outside layer, like denim, twill, wool coating. Spray with water repelling.
>>2626448Just use whatever fabric you like on the outside, or a light garment weight leather. I used to have a couplke of jackets with fake lambs wool on the inside, and cotton ripstop on the outside, they were comfy but a proper lambskin would have been nicer of course.Something like the cotton ripstop you could use a waterproofing additive on, or you could buy like some waxed canvas or something to use.
>>2626450Looks super cozyGYPSY GTFO
>>2622904>silk screen press How does this work for camouflage? How do you actually get the specific pattern you want? I looked at this guys video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQdyzph0E8E
>>2626482Cotton ripstop is a good weight, and the reinforcing threads make it durable. Lighter weight cottons will eventually abrade on the thicker seams and fray.
>>2626477>>2626482>>2626570thanks guysI have a few months until winter so I'll go little by little
I want to make a Kosovorotka and the pantsHow hard would it be?I can't find sewing patterns and I've never made anything beforeI want to be able to wear it whilst gardening, how do I make sure it's sturdy?
>>2625475whats the purpose of those incomplete camels? Are they for sizing/measuring purposes? Or is it more of a shell that gets changed throughout the project process?
>>2627323They're tests in muslin of the pattern I drafted. You can see how they're marked up, and how the chest area is split open to correct the neck curve. Minky's fairly expensive, so I test out new patterns in cheap muslin, make and mark corrections to the pattern draft, and do the final plush in Minky. Same as I do when making clothes--pattrrn test in muslin and make corrections before cutting into the fashion fabric. It's a standard practice in the industry. The clothes muslin test is called a toile.
>>2621160After seeing some guy's chair project in another thread I'm now looking into making a cheap linen bunk bed for the summer. What kind of seams and upholstery should I look into to prevent my bunk bed from turning into a hammock?
Some places near me go on clearance often and shirts go for 1$. How viable is it to learn to fix length, torso and arm width?
>>2627504neat, learned something new about the materials. makes sense, good practice to prototype before you use actual/good material to make the final one. standard practice in other creative disciplines. thanks anone
>>2627976It may seems like doing twice (or more!) the amout of work initially, but it saves money in the long run to make and correct patterning mistakes with cheap fabric, than to keep buying the fashion fabric. >incomplete camels the two muslin plush test camels are all full-sized and stuffed. I just unstuff them and toss the fails/tests when I'm done.
Why does my serger keep doing this (bobbin thread looping into the fabric) do I just need to fuck with the tension and shit
Where do I buy extra wide fabric for making large curtain panels?
>>2628505You looking for 120" wide? Search for extra wide drapery fabric. Lots of places that carry upholstery fabric also carry drapery fabrics. Dozens of online stores out there. Places like Joanns usually only have the standard 54" stuff. You can also sew together 54" panels to make a larger curtain.
>>2628440Bobbin thread nesting usually indicates there's a problem with the top thread. Check that the bobbin thread is feeding off the spool in the correct direction first and that yhere are no small threads and lint in the bobbin case housing. Then check that the top thread is threaded correctly and is correctly positioned between the tension discs. Then try a new needle. You should replace the needle after 8 hrs of sewing or with each new project. Small burrs on the needle will cause snagging.
>>2628440FUCK I've had this problem dude, it fucking sucks. I had to get it repaired professionally. Got hardcore stuck.
I acquired some unidentified fabric that shimmers with a slight green iridescence- i think it's shitty polyester, but I'm going to make a jacket out of it.I'll get at least the body of the jacket made up tomorrow, and I'll consider what I have to make the lining from afterwards.
>>2628071so what happens if you make a mistake on the muslin/test version like mid-way through the process? do you stich on additional shit or remake a certain section from scratch? cool experience btw.
bunch of homos in this thread
>>2628884I usually sew the entire thing--be it a plush test or a garment test muslin--and make corrections on the actual test, pinning out areas that are too big, or slash and spread areas that are too small, and adding muslin into the too small areas. Muslin's great because you can write directly on it. After making and marking the corrections needed,for a plush, I measure the changes and transfer those to the paper pattern, then redraw the pattern with the corrections and do a second test muslin. For garments, I'll take the whole thing apart, iron the muslin, and use that to redraw the paper pattern. In picrel, the pink marking are corrections to the paper pattern made from pinning and drawing on the muslin. I'll redraw the pattern based on those marks and measurements. For plushes, I'll usually retest that corrected pattern in muslin, if it's a lot, or in cheap faux-Minky, because you usually need to assess how the fabric stretch affects the overall design.
>>2628884Here's the muslin, and two tests in Minky for a Bury Pink, for an /s4s/ anon
>>2628884Here's the finished plushes from the tests. It takes some time to work through the drafting and testing process, but generally yields good results, rather than guessing what needs fixing.
>>2628935>>2628932>>2628930neat, thanks for sharing anon..
>>2628886we enjoy something you don't. cool bro. Even if we were gay, why does that matter to you?at least we can get laid faster than you.
