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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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File: cooker switch.jpg (3 KB, 225x225)
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As far as I can see all main fuse box fuses are ok, the socket has no fuses internally. I've got a voltmeter, can I diagnose this? there are no signs of scorch marks anywhere in the socket etc. The cooker kind of hummed and fan petered out when it died, not sure if it was an element that blew or the fan motor, the cooker was full of smoke after it died. It was an old cooker. I know cooker elements are prone to ground leaks from shorting elements. would that explain anything and how can I know what's happening when I just have a dead socket with no fuses blown?
>I've got a voltmeter, can I diagnose this?
If you have to ask, then no.
I assume you are from the UK or Ireland.
First answer is that normal no,If the cooker blew then it should only be the Cooker but I have no idea how it was wired so.

What did you with the cooker.
Did you disconnect it?

I would disconnect the cooker in a safe manner by putting then in Connectors and lots of insulation tape and if you have any else at home then use a junction box or anything box shaped cover it and label it LIVE .

I would unsure the socket you said that blew and check the connections.(it could be that it's just an old socket but that's unlikely) Get your Voltmeter( I assume you know how it works with AC/DC) and I would flip the cooker break up and test for voltage at the socket and see

Basically disconnect cooker and check if socket is live while cooker Breaker is down and then see if it works while cooker breaker is up.

Also please check if the Cable for the Cooker and and Socket are not the same. It shouldn't be. The cooker cable should be thicker (6mm) and socket (2.5)
I did a continuity test on the socket and it failed, (cooker and socket switches set to on, broken cooker still connected) I haven't yet disconnect the broken cooker. From what I can see in the socket wiring there are three sets of wires, two (6mm and 2.5mm) going into the cooker, and a single live and neutral (6mm) going into the switch. I don't understand why other than the electrician doubled up some wiring for the cooker.

I was wondering if it was worth doing an insulation resistance test. Even if I found out the results I don't know if it would make a difference. I just wanted to know for peace of mind before I call an electrician. I can't see any reason the wiring would have failed but I just wanted to know or figure it out before an electrician just tells me the wiring needs replacing when it is something more simple. thx
The 2.5mm wiring into the cooker maybe for the electronics in the cooker though that does sound a bit suspicious
I've never seen a setup like that posted in OPs pic, the cooker switch is always separate and not paired with a regular plug socket.
I'm not an electrician but I've done some rewiring work in my house and I was told the cooker had to be on an completely independent, isolated circuit.
Might want to check up on the regs with a qualified electrician to see if your in compliance, if anything goes catastrophically wrong it may have an impact on an insurance claim
What does a continunity test do?
Try disconnecting the cooker and see if the socket works.
Hopefully your cooker is free standing so you can disconnect it and make it safe and see what's the story with the socket. Does your cooker work still? Did you check the connections for the cooker.Dont throw away or break the cooker because it could be a issue with wiring and not the cooker.

>From what I can see in the socket wiring there are three sets of wires, two (6mm and 2.5mm) going into the cooker, and a single live and neutral (6mm) going into the switch.

I'm a bit confused by this,can you take a picture?
Sockets should only have 2.5mm cable and either 1 or 2 cables and 3 is rare but can be done but under no circumstance should a 6mm cable be with the socket.
The Cooker switch should only have 2 Cables(6 wires, Live,Neutral,Earth).
A cable coming from the board into the Switch and then cable going to Cooker. You Cooker Breaker should be at 32Amps or more.( you should see the number 32 written on the breaker)

You seem to know more than me but not sure what the tests will do
That is very suspicious and shouldn't be.
It may work but not for long and will fry something

That setup is separate inside but it's in one metal box. And yes cooker should be on its own but I don't think it's he worst but I wouldn't recommend to to any or use it myself. If the socket or Cooker is fault you will need to change to the same setup which setup. Just get two separate boxes so it's not together.

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