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File: BeFunky-collage (1).jpg (1.57 MB, 3264x3264)
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100% sfw edition
Last Thread: >>2545456

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 2023-01-19]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Bambu Labs P1P
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own Voron, Rat Rig, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait), Bambu Lab X1 Carbon
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars 2+, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://printables.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional parametric CAD programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, TinkerCAD, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do mesh free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
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> gotta get me in dat collage
>>
>>2547965
Is that the mythical flying fuck?
>>
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How do I prevent the nozzle dragging across the print like this?
>>
>>2547967
Lift print head / z hop.
>>
>>2547967
is your bed fully level in the corner? z-hop first, then mess with z-offset next by .02 at a time
>>
Is it safe to leave an Ender 3 v2 unattended and leave the house with it on? Or should I be at least in the house but leaving it unattended? Any horror tales?
>>
>>2547969
>>2547973
Thanks, I assume its level in the corners. Really irritating the Neo doesn't have the option the older printers have to automatically move the nozzle to the desired places to level it
>>
>>2547980
I could take this time to take a shot at Ender, but both me and my brother own one. Mine is on the fritz atm, but we both run it day and night. I am considering getting some sort of fire mitigation soon, for now we just have a smoke detector on all levels and usually someone is home to uhh...handle that.

>>2547982
Yeah, it is annoying. There is a chance that you get an "ugly inside" and a completely normal looking and functional exterior with that, if you are still printing.
>>
>>2547983
I've not had it drag before, but then again this is the first large flat thing I've done. Next time I'll have to fuck with the bed again or use some z-hop. Probably print it mirrored so I have a nice flat surface for the front
>>
>>2547980
I have left mine unattended lots of times, but I won't necessarily recommend it. Only (You) can determine if your particular machine is safe enough. That said I did do everything I can to theoretically reduce risk, including cutting off all the tinned leads and crimping on bootlace ferrules, and using a printed grommet to reduce chafing on the part where the wires are routed through the cutout on the bottom extrusion, and paying extra close attention to cable routing and minimizing the amount of cable rub and eliminating any potential snag points. Most importantly you need to confirm that your printer firmware's thermal runaway protection is working.
>>
>>2547980
In general, it's not advised with any printer or really any similar appliance.
In reality, it's fine so long as your printer is fine.
Many (most, all?) Chinese printers come from the factory with some flaws that are legitimate fire hazards.
While we're well past the Anet A8 era, lots of manufacturers still make really, really bad mistakes in this regard.

Some Enders have shitty and incorrectly installed XT60 connectors, this is the little yellow/orange plug that comes from the power supply.
If it's one of the jank ones, it'll heat up significantly during use. Over time, that repeated heating with degrade it, until it cracks or melts, potentially causing a short or even a fire.

A very common problem is bare or tinned wires in screw-terminals. They displace/squish/move over time until the connection quality is so poor and resistance so high that it starts to get hot, potentially melting or outright catching fire.
They SHOULD have ferrules on the ends of the wires, and some manufacturers are starting to do this thanks to people screeching about it for the past 10 years.

It's very important that you have common-sense safety features enabled as well, specifically thermal runaway protection.
There are STILL new printers shipping with thermal runaway protection disabled, and that shit is BAD.
Thermal runaway isn't just about overheating, it's about watching for numerous problems with heaters and thermistors.
Anything HOT behaving in a way that it isn't supposed to can throw an error and shut things down, rather than sitting there doing nothing while your printer smokes.

Never ASSUME your safety features work, test them. Don't want to discover your mistake in the heap of ashes that was your home.
Don't fear it, just set it up correctly and ensure you've checked out the known issues and safety features, and your trepidation will fade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGUPBoDxmKk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lURxGcdBm9A
>>
>>2547987
Some people go all out and add external safeties.
Fire alarms and whatnot are easy, a small smoke detector can sit on a shelf just beside or above your printer for example.
If you want to get real crazy with it, you can use "smart" plugs and whatnot and automate your safety.
Detects Smoke -> Cuts all power to printer -> Starts emergency backup on home server -> Alerts on smartphone
Flame sensor detects open flame -> Fire suppression system kicks in and chokes out your pets with halon -> Youtube livestream starts automatically with view of all your security cameras so people can join in on the fun
>>
>>2547986
>>2547987
Good point about the XT60s. I generally don't trust em. Yeah, I know most people don't have an issue with them, but I don't like soldered wire to wire connectors. They may be good enough for RC but not for 3D printers IMHO.

I cut mine off, making sure that I cut off enough that the solder hadn't migrated up past the cuts, and replaced them with crimp on disconnects.
>>
>>2547987
>>2547986
>>2547987
Thanks anons. I'll pause the print and keep the bed warm.
>>
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>>2547995
I use ferrule + wago 221 depending on what it is.
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>>2547992
Automatic fire suppression can be a lot simpler and less deadly than a halon setup.
>>
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I designed a case for the new Meanwell LRS-600-24. I think this is the first one for this case. Yeah I didn't put the vents in the right spots since they were afterthoughts. I only went by the external case dimensions and the screw locations. I'll fix this later on. Also the IEC plug cover thing is held on by VHB tape. I wanted to use longer self tappers but it will be ahile before I get them since I ordered on aliexpress.
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>>2548003
Chad detected.
>>
>>2548016
>I think this is the first one for this power supply
fixed
>>
>>2547961
Getting migraines from having to fuck with and repair my modded Ender 3v2. Bought a used Sidewinder X1 thats been a bitch to get working. Everytime I fix something on it, another part fails.
Then I have to re-calibrate near everything to get *better* print quality. Haven't been able to get it dialed in to the point where it was before the first batch of failures post modding it.
Tired of quality parts that won't fail on me costing 70-100$ per for these chinesium cheapo printers.
Going to spend my income tax money on a Bambo Lab, what should I do with the parts from my main printers?
>>
>>2548016
Looks good, looks clean and solid.
Too many paper thin flimsy covered in hexagons 4-million-retractions designs out there for this shit.
>>
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>>2548031
Thx. Yeah I agree with you about the flimsy part. I don't know why most people make them so thin. Why take the time to make your own part, if the end result is weaker and shittier than the original. Why not spend an extra dollar or two on filament and make the walls 5mm thicc, etc.
>>
>>2548017
I honestly been loving them.

When I decided to "modernize" my 2018 ender 3, I used them when adding new wires for meanwell I bought for it.
>>
>>2548052
and buck converter and what not.
>>
>>2548052
fuckin' clean
>>
>>2548052
proper. I need to read about wiring, after I get my old Ender 3 printing I want to get it modern
>>
>>2548005
I was checking these out the other day, pretty smart. I didn't know there was a printer sized one.
https://youtu.be/L1XS5B5D70U
>>
Does anyone know of an odometer than I can print that attaches to my bed soni can measure the distance travelled?
>>
How hard is it for a person with no real electronics experience or tools to wire the motherboard cooling fan on an Ender 3 in so its always on?
>>
>>2548085
Obligatory:
>If you don't have a smoke alarm in the same room as your printer, fix that immediately.

These fire extinguisher balls are neat, but they're ghetto AF and only respond to CATCHING FIRE.
As in, the ball has to be licked by open flames to do anything.
Location is important, and multiple together are not likely to operate together.
One going off can prevent another from going off by covering it in retardant, blocking the fuse.

Definitely not the best solution, but they're a great supplement/addition to any setup.
If you're the type, consider hanging 'em in attics, boiler rooms, water-heater closets, in the garage above the shelf filled with solvents and over the scrap bin full of cardboard and plywood, you get the idea.
I've got two in the corner of my shed, where my >40y/o air compressor sits next to my dust collector, makes me a lot less nervous to hear the old bitch kick on when I'm working outside the shed.
>>
how the fuck do you put an x-belt on an Ender 3?
>>
>>2548003
>not using wire nuts
have you seen how much wagos cost?
>>
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>>2548052
That looks great. I've been meaning to get my wires sorted out for over a year now. I stopped printing around last April and just started again last month so it's well passed the time to fix my shit.
How did you choose the type of wire to use? Obviously you can't use the same type of wire for everything, right? For example, the main wires for the heater bed probably wouldn't work for your probe or fans. Did you try to match every component's wire size or did you pick a standard size for everything?
>pic related
>>
>>2548095
All you need are the allen keys that came with the printer and a wire stripper. The design retardation inherent in the C*eality board work in your favor here. You just cut off plug from the fan, strip about 5mm of insulation, then stuff it into the same screw terminal as the hotend fan.
>>
>>2548103
>mangles your wires
Wagos are great because you can just flip open the lever if you need to change stuff up

They also cost like $1 each at the most and you only need a few of them for a 3d printer. The cost argument makes sense if you're wiring a house.
>>
>>2548108
Boss, nice one
>>
>>2548099
>https://youtu.be/L1XS5B5D70U
Yep, I'm thinking I'd rather have a fire extinguisher.
>>
>>2547987
>There are STILL new printers shipping with thermal runaway protection disabled
Fuck sake I wish my ender was one of them. On cold days it trips that alarm every god damn time.
>>
>>2548024
>what should I do with the parts from my main printers?
Build a bigger printer with it.
>>
>>2548141
Can't really make a bigger one. I could make a squat, but wide corexy with the extrusions I have. Would still need to invest in parts, but it could be worth it I suppose.
>>
>>2548112
Banana plugs are the best of both worlds. Cheap as fuck and can handle a decent amount of power.
>>
>>2548112
>They also cost like $1 each at the most
I can buy a 300pc assorted pack of wire nuts for 3 dollars.
>>
>>2547980
Has it burnt your house down while you were home?
>>
>>2547980
Just get a 30 dollar netcam if you're worried. Or a 2 dollar smoke alarm. I would never leave the house with an FDM printer but I'm schizo after a fire scare in my house years ago (Molex>Sata connector in PC burst into flames.)
>>
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>>2548103
Yes anon, I even decided to try knock offs, I havent tested
>pic related

when I do I plan to do it on a small project not 3d printed related see how they do.

Wire nuts I wouldn't even consider even if they are 3 dollars
>>2548153
Show me your printer setup using wire nuts. Curious how many you used.

>>2548106
Anon my bad, The wiring I changed was just to make them longer since my psu is behind my ender 3, did this "low profile" mod. I didn't need to make changes to the bed, so I left that alone.

I did however put a v6 on it, just ran the cartridge and thermistor wires to the skr mini.
>>
>>2548106
pic of psu relocation
>>
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Workshop is all set up. Doing my resin test prints now.
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>>2548175
Close up of my ghetto curing station I mentioned a few threads ago.
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>>2548175
Is that a toilet?
>>
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Ok, fresh firmware, bros. What's the diagnosis? There's a lot of banding and even a few gaps. Even getting my bed leveled to 0.01mm doesn't give me a perfect first layer, either.
>>
>>2548185
The jew fears the restroom warhammer printer.
>>
>>2548185
No, I built the entire room in my basement. Vent fan is for resin fumes.
>>
>>2548189
just v-roller things.
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>>2548186
Whoops, old thread. At least it gives me an excuse to post another picture.

Guess I'm going to need an extended release lever.
>>
>>2548194
They seem fine. Why would they suddenly be causing a problem? They're not crushingly tight, but they're tight enough that you can't turn them without moving the gantry up and down. How could they be causing a problem?
>>
>>2548189
Looks fucked to me.
What printer, what firmware, what version did you update from, what version did you update to, what did you change in your configuration, what printer is it, what control board, what stepper drivers?
Steps/mm could be off, e-steps could be off, microstepping could be fucked, your driver current might be set wrong, it's all just shots in the dark.
>>
>>2548189
>What's the diagnosis?
Z binding. Check the V rollers.
>>
This is ABS, in an open printer, printed wicked fast. No warps, no splits. What?
>>
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>>2548192
>>
>>2548204
Print it fast enough and the result is the entire thing stays a decent enough temperature as to not need a heated environment.
>>
>>2548204
>printed wicked fast
>at 275C
He's brute forcing it. 260 gives you good layer adhesion in a cardboard box. In open air you need to go higher.
He kinda has to use it open air because at those speeds the layers wouldn't cool down fast enough in an enclosure.
Also the benchy is a small model with a bit of complex geometry to it, the stress buildup isn't great enough to make it warp off the bed or for the layers to come apart.
If he had to print a 100+mm cube things would be different.
>>
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>>2548200
Fuck.
Ender 3 Pro
Whatever the previous Creality 4.2.7 + BLTouch firmware was
Using the Creality 4.2.7, obviously. 512k chip (supposedly they're quietly downgrading to 256k chips in newer 4.2.7 boards?)

I completely forgot to calibrate steps. I left them stock and didn't test them beyond printing the level test and cube. Guess I'll just spend a few hours... calibrating...


>>2548203
I'm going to pretend not to see this so I don't have to remove my second z-screw again. I WILL make dual-z work.
>>
>>2548206
That's a 5 gallon bucket anon. You can see the handle.
>>
>>2548219
that doesn't mean it may not be a toilet, but I concede.
>>
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I impulsively bought these storage organizations drawer thingy bullshits on amazon. Anyways I wanted to put gridfinity like bins in them, I found out the dimensions of the drawers wouldn't give me a perfect grid. I ended up seeing if I can extend the depth by a few mm. Comes to find out, a extra 5 mm will let me use same size bins in both width, and depth. camlock dowel pins look shitty, ordered longer ones.
>>
>>2548221
Understandable, we'll call it a draw.
>>
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Thanks to the anon who recommended RepRack for storage... It helped me a lot! It's clear I need another so I am currently printing 2 more sets of hangers. I'm going to get rid of the smaller wooden hanger and put the new rack right below the current one. Then I will print and use some RackRollers for whatever filament I have in current use.
As you can see from the picture, the shelf is sagging a bit. By my calculations, each piece of EMT has about 35lbs on it. I'm not really worried that it is going to fall or break. I used Carbon Fiber PETG and attached it to the studs with 3" nails. Still, do you guys think it would be worth it to put another hanger in the middle or should I just call it good? I haven't heard any cracking or anything like that so I'm not sure that it is necessary.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_QLxTVtyng
>>
>>2548236
I would do a 3rd hanger, just for piece of mind.
I need to start building my collection up again. Most of the pla I ordered last year was fused together part way through the spools. (from KVP)
Is printing with, say, PLA/PLA+ from 3kg rolls more cost efficient than just buying 1kg rolls? Most prints I do are in neutral colors.
>>
>>2548246
I still don't see the point of it.
>>
>>2548250
portable
>>
>>2548250
It's cute, small, portable, it's an experiment that's gone very well over its multiple iterations.
Plenty to be gleaned from the project, like the use of synchromesh chains.
>>
>>2548252
For the purposes of hotel room printing?
>>
>>2548255
Synchromesh cables are much more sloppy than GT2 belts and will produce more backlash.
Great for tiny printer, bad for real printer.
>>
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>>2548189
do the z axis motor shim mod and make shure screws are tight but not too tight that you strip the threads or break the part
>0.2mm nozzle default extrusion settings, PLA
>>
>>2548261
not here, amaritard
>>
>>2548257
I believe the creator mentions he created it to use in hotels while at conventions, so yes.
>>
>>2548248
Most of this stuff I haven't printed with. All but two of the vacuum bags are from whatever factory they came from. The majority of it is PLA/PLA+ but theres about 5 spools of PETG, one of TPU, and one of ABS. I decided against the ABS because of the fumes and I forgot what I was going to use the PETG to print.
I would imagine the 3kg spools would be a bit more cost effective but I've never even seen one for sale. But I haven't been looking, either. I always just get the 1kg spools and skip any of the 750g ones.
If you are just printing neutral stuff, I'd look for whatever had good ratings and got you the best bang for your buck. I know if you check the manufacturer's websites you can often find good deals. Like Sunlu recently had a "mystery" sale going on where you could buy spools for like $15USD each but you couldn't pick the color. So it might be worth checking the other manufacturer's websites for good deals.
>>
>>2548271
>PETG to print.
TPU
>>
>>2548164
>>2548163
Shit I thought you rewired the whole thing. Still it looks good and should be an inspiration to us all.
My PSU is still on the side. I printed something to move it off to the side a bit off of the foot but I don't remember why. My original plan was to get all of the electronics outside and away from the printer so I could put an enclosure around it but I stopped printing for a while. My wiring is so janky I'm surprised it works. I have a lot of connections where I made two plugs work that weren't designed to fit together (with sometimes a male-to-male pin connector or whatever else) and then I used heatshrink to keep it all together. I did end up buying a bunch wires, connectors, crimpers, etc. with a halfbaked plan but haven't fleshed it out all the way yet. I really like those Wago style connectors so I will probably incorporate those into my design when/if I ever finish it.
>>
>>2548236
Nice. Yeah I was the one that recommended it, and it's PROBABLY fine, but i'd probably add a 3rd bracket just so that it doesn't sag and make you look like a dunce.
Who knows what kind of damage that'll do to the wall mounted prints over a few months and temperature cycles.

Also, i recently printed more and used my slicer to cut off the part of the EMT holding bracket that is used for the center-of-spool rod. That way I can actually print two at once on a 250mm build plate
>>
>>2548248
>>2548271
neither anon but i print mostly structural shit and guns, so PLA+ usually. inland has pretty fucking cheap PLA+ and i'm pretty convinced it comes out of the same factory as esun pla+, and that stuff is pretty good. you can buy spoolless pla+ from inland for 17$ with free shipping. print a reusable filament spool, and that's a sore dick deal.
>>
Does ASA have any benefit over ABS other than the UV resistance?
I want to print dashboard phone mount for my car, and I don't think any appreciable UV gets through a windshield. Sure gets hot though, and ABS is nearly half the price of ASA.
>>
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>>2548292

lol that wago may look nice, but then I did this to the hotend.

funny the part you see looks half assed while the place you dont see is nicer.

I was just getting annoyed with pinching wires when ever I moved my ender 3, or snagging / whatever. Just wanted to have it where all I need to do is pick up the printer and spool/spool holder, move it and set it down without any minor inconveniences.

BTW, you may know this, but just in case, you'll want to ground your psu to the frame, whenever you move it off the frame. From what I understand its the earth that's being grounded to the frame.

IDK if its really that crucial since my kingroon has a separate psu but doesn't have a wire for earth ground.
>>
>>2548308
>esun pla+,

You are correctone of the reasons why I stopped buying esun since inland is cheaper, even at one point on amazon for 16.99 but I mostly go in store and buy it for 18.99
>>
Why on some printers where the belts are, they go over smooth pulleys instead of gears? Wouldn't it make more sense to use gear pulleys instead of plain round pulleys?
>>
>>2548332
Not if it's on the back of the belt.
>>
>>2548316
Supposedly it stinks less.
>>
>>2548316
ASA is little harder and a little stiffer than ABS, with a higher Young's modulus and bending modulus, but lower impact strength.
ASA has significantly higher tensile strength, as printed ~30% higher than ABS, but they've got nearly identical bending strength.
ASA also stretches more readily, with more than twice the elongation at break of ABS.
ASA and ABS have nearly identical thermal properties once printed, like glass transition temp, and heat deflection.
However, ASA has a far higher melt index, with a given printer you can expect to push up to DOUBLE the ASA compared to ABS.
If you have a high-speed printing setup, that's a serious advantage.
ASA also produces far fewer aerosols when printing, so that means less smell, less formaldehyde, fewer VOCs, and fewer microparticles of plastic.

All in all, it's similar to but better than ABS across the board in nearly every measure, except price-tag obviously.
>>
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>>2548319
Anon, it's time to crimp JST-SMs to everything. Micro Fit 3.0 on the heater cartridge.

Also you need to ditch the 5015s and slap on a 4028 for real ultimate power.
>>
I asked my wife to watch my printer today and to hit the power button if she heard anything or saw anything that might cause the print to fail. The sock fell off the heater block, and she hit the power button. Halfway into a multi-hour print. Thanks sweetheart.
I don't know if I should be annoyed or not. And one hand she was trying to help but on the other hand I really don't think that the print would have failed because the fucking sock fell off. Although I guess it could have since it would have had to somehow escape from the heater block. Oh well.
Maybe I can resume the print from the failed part...
>>
>>2548377
i mean you did tell her to
>>
>>2548367
>4028 for real ultimate power.

Those are loud anon, I've already been seeing people bitch and fight about that shit. Nothing wrong with using 4028, I already had 5015 available and just used them, im a jew with my money. If for some reason dual 5015 are not sufficient for MY NEEDS, then I'll consider it.

>microfit heater cartridge

I kept that as the long wires as they are all the way to my skr mini, crimped ferrules on the end, and screwed them into the terminals. At some point I plan to do that so I can just unplug from the hotend for easy removal.


>>2548377
Anon, did you actually teach her on how to identify what could cause a print to fail? If you didn't but expect her to "just know" then you are going about it wrong. Just because you can ID what can cause a print to fail doesn't mean they can't, especially if you haven't properly shown them.
>>
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>>2548336
On my Ender 3, all of the belts are running with their teeth touching a smooth pulley. I'm wondering if it would be better if there was a gear instead of the pulley since the belt has teeth.
>>
>>2547961
>100% safe for work edition

>Tfw that's a nudge to you, and the other guy with TFT that were posting rice cakes

One way or another I'm gonna be in OP every new thread. This has been the 4th time in a row.
>>
>>2547961
>my non-3d printed programming peg in the OP
what have you done
>>
>Cura stops slicing when I reboot my PC

fucking hell come ON
>>
>>2548390
yeah i had the same concern and that's just how it is. that one is an idler, and it just keeps tension on the belt. it does seem dumb that it's not toothed, because the belt has teeth on it. at first i assumed the belt was on backwards but no, it's just done that way.
i think it doesn't matter, frankly, because there isn't all that much force on the belt for it to need the teeth engagement to prevent slipping., nor are they run so hard as to wear the belt excessively either way.
>>
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How would I model something like a spring loaded locking tab? like a ratchet mechanism.
So I could push something in one way, and it has cutouts on it, and it'll only go that one way. It's held in place by the spring loaded tab. If i want to back it out, I have to push the little lever and now it'll slide out freely.
I don't know how to model this sort of thing though. Like, I don't know where I ought to pin the lever, or what sort of face to put on the tip of the lever to mate with the work piece, or even how to model that rotation other than physically spinning the parts in fusion360.
I'm not asking someone to do the work for me, but if you have any ideas or if you've done something like this i'd like to hear it.
>>
>>2548393
Everything is ruined forever.
>>
>>2548412
Start by drawing cross-sectional diagrams with an approximate sense of scale. There's likely a few different topologies (e.g. different classes of lever, different kinds of spring) so try to think creatively. Then look over the upsides and downsides of them from both a purely mechanical point of view (where the forces are transmitted through, friction and wear, tolerances, complexity), but also from a 3D printing point of view (how easy it would be to print, how to maximise the strength of the mechanism via print layers). This should narrow it down to a few ideas, at which point you can start narrowing down the finer details, like the intersecting profiles, and designing it around actual springs and shafts.

You should be looking at existing solutions throughout all these steps. In this case I'd look at the shape of ratchets in crossbow mechanisms, in bike hubs, in ratcheting wrenches, in clock winding mechanisms, maybe in latching mechanisms like pushbuttons and pens, and I think some rollercoaster lift mechanisms are ratcheting. Wintergatan's MMX's marble elevator was also ratcheting.
>>
>>2548379
>>2548381
Yeah no its totally my fault. She showed me the sock and it got fucked up. Somehow it slipped off, probably because I just did a nozzle change, and it got caught under the nozzle. The infill was pretty shit on this print anyways because I was trying to run it at 75mm/s so just gonna have to reprint it.
>>
>>2548412
You don't really need pivots and springs. Plastic flexes. Model the part in the engaged position, so the face of the tab is flat against the teeth. Thin out the part so it can flex, do some test to figure out the appropriate thickness. Leave some clearance behind the tab so it has space to retract in to.
>>
Today, I will print coom.
>>
>>2548412
Why would you 3d print a zip tie
>>
>>2548429
thanks mate, i was thinking about pawl mechanisms and zipties but some of those suggestions are actually pretty good to poach ideas from.

>>2548443
>>2548458
i'm trying to design an easel/tripod sort of structure, and be able to adjust the leg length without having to use screws, but also so it will hold reasonably rigidly if i pick it up and move it around or whatever. plus, it would just be useful to know how to do. i could think of all sorts of boxes and cabinet type things where a ratchet mechanism would be useful.
>>
>>2548469
You could also look at just having holes in the two parts and a pin to go through them to hold them in position
>>
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The most common methods for keeping a resin printer at the correct temperature seem to be either a fan-heater inside the enclosure, or a fermentation belt around the vat. I really don't want to wrap anything that gets super hot around the vat, since it is in direct contact with the LCD- I'm thinking of taking something like a mat-heater (picrel) and somehow affixing it to the inside of the plastic enclosure so it heats the inside without applying direct heat to the bottom plate. Any other good ideas for heating resin?

Right now, I have a sealed oil space heater just heating the entire room, which is fine but working in a scorching 75F room is annoying if I want to be in there while stuff is printing.
>>
>>2548505
Also, it's amazing to me that none of these printers have built in heaters, considering most resin working temps are 25-30c, hotter than any sane person would have their home.
>>
>>2548367
Someday I want to buy a small ethernet connector breakout board, so I can just use a single fucking cat-5 cable for BL, fans and thermometer
>>
>>2548530
Ever seen the Chinese options?
They use a variety of cables/wiring solutions, I've seen USB-C, VGA, MT30s, all kinds of nonsense.
Most common I see is "Afterburner" (Voron) style.

https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-PiggyBack36-Compatible-Stepper-Optional/dp/B0B1MJRCWB/
https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Afterburner-Temperature-Sensitive-Compatible/dp/B09YHDGDXQ/
https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Umbilical-Including-Connecting-Compatible/dp/B09YH4F1SR/
(^This one is real fuckin' neato)

There are a LOT more if you get on Ali, thank white god for Chinese slaves.
Some are pretty neat, I like the one that came with my cheapshit Creasee CS30, it makes any hotend work incredibly easy because I can just pop the whole assembly off as a unit and unplug one cable.
>>
>>2548458
hmmmmmmmmm.......
>>
>>2548530
Any consumer Ethercat 3D printers I wonder? You'd need drivers far smaller than the typical CNC machine ones, and I'm not sure if those exist. But considering it's an open standard you could probably make them with an ethernet-capable microcontroller.
>>
>>2547980
nothing is ever safe. houses don't burn down for no reason. you should never leave and obviously never ever sleep. try smoking in bed to ensure you are alert and ready in case any one of your devices or house wiring even suddenly burst into flame.

>>2548155
a reminder that everything that's not a printer is also going to kill you.
>>
Wanted to give kapton tape a shot but I'm having adhesion issues even with PLA, any ideas? I've got no bubbles, for now cranking the bed temp up helped a bit as it seems to have trouble conducting heat up from the bed (regular steel bed, no PEI). Also may be that the roll I got is trash but can't tell really, also sorry for phoneposting
>>
>>2547995
>crimp on
why don't you just twist the wires together and add a little electrical tape? not using crimp on connectors is the second thing you learn in automotive wiring, the first being red is positive black is negative. dear god do you even have a crimping tool and match the gauge or do you just smash whichever of these is lying around with pliers?
>>
>>2548694
>not using crimp on connectors is the second thing you learn in automotive wiring
What kind of 3rd world shithole do you live in that cars don't have crimp connectors?
>>
>>2548692
i thought you were supposed to use that stuff for insulation and print on blue painters tape
>>
>>2548204
I don't understand what you don't understand. I can print ABS on my mini delta without any mods. What he's not showing you is the part where he died from the cancer. Or the part where you can't just throw any part on there and have it print fine.
>>
>>2548692
Give up.
Printing on Kaptop, Painters Tape, Build-Tak, it's all ancient garbage now and there's no excuse anymore to keep doing it.
Bare glass is and will always be the GOAT, but hairspray and gluestick are consumables, things get gross if you don't keep it clean.

You can pick up a magnetic steel sheet, PEI coated, textured on one side and smooth on the other.
$10-$25 on Amazon depending on the size of your bed.
Easiest fucking build surface there is, great adhesion, easy to pop prints off, there's no downside.
Unless you're actually printing at high temps with a bed typically >120C, it's your best option.
Stop dicking around with rolls of tape like it's 2011, you'll be really fucking glad you did.

($17 - Ender 3 size 235x235mm) https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Textured-Flexible-Smooth-235x235mm/dp/B09MK7RHGW/
>>
Should I be running my 2209s in spreadcycle or stealthchop? I know klipper's docs suggest spreadcycle for more motor torque and accuracy, but the printer is so much quieter in stealthchop. I also see that configs for Vorons and Rat Rigs run in spreadcycle 99% of the time, but I'm running a Ender 3 v2. Would Spreadcycle really benefit my shitty printer?
>>
>>2548700
>Or the part where you can't just throw any part on there and have it print fine.
Some people just do not seem to get this part.
They get one good calibration cube and don't understand why torture tests don't come out gorgeous.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1504207
If someone wants to pull this off with ABS without an enclosure, I'd sure love to see it.
>>
>>2548708
Yes, even on your Ender 3 it makes a difference. Have no doubt, an Ender 3 will happily push in excess of 3000mm/s/s accelerations.

There's an answer to your question, and it's called Hybrid Threshold.
>@section tmc/hybrid
>//#define HYBRID_THRESHOLD
Your printer will automatically switch between Stealthchop and Spreadcycle depending on the speeds you're commanding.
So it'll only be loud when you've got the speed cranked up!
It's dynamic, you don't have to manage it once it's set up.
For example: your threshold is 100mm/s, you're printing at 80mm/s with 150mm/s travels, the printing will be quiet but the travels will be using spreadcycle. The travels are brief and direct, so the noise out of the printer is less distinct and less bothersome.
Spreadcycle really is better once you're really moving, higher speeds and higher accelerations.
You can even change your thresholds with GCODE if you want, M913 in Marlin.
Hybrid Threshold lets you take advantage of both options, best of both worlds.

With Klipper, you can do thresholding, it's set up for it by default but specifically not recommended.
With Marlin, I've never had an issue with it.

As a side note, leave Stealthchop disabled for your extruder given the option.
This is personal preference, but I don't see the point with the extruder, you will never hear it.
>>
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>>2548139
If you flash new firmware you can tweak the thermal runaway detection in configuration_adv.h if I remember correctly. 90s instead of 60s and one degree extra makes a world of difference in false positives but still keeps your printer not on fire.
>>
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>>2548412
>>
>>2548695
cars don't have them until fuckwits like you come in and start chopping up wires and putting them in. no decent stereo or alarm install is going to use this garbage.
>>
>>2548761
You're a fucking idiot. Every single wire in a car made this century has crimp connectors. Not the shitty spade connector kind, they are proprietary crimp connectors made to be waterproof and not come apart with vibrations.
>>
>>2548722
Would this work on 2208s as well? According to the datasheet they support stealthchop and spreadcycle too.
>>
What are some of the better calibration guides to follow? Where do you even begin with calibrations, other than bed leveling and squaring the frame?
>>
>>2548775
You've also got the steps, so how far the nozzle/bed actually moves per rotation of the stepper motor, and then the extrusion settings that determine the width of the line put out by the nozzle.
>>
>>2548761
>>2548767

FASTON spade terminals are hot garbage from a bygone era, whether crimped, soldered, or otherwise.
High resistance, easily deformed, they corrode together into a heap of useless shit, they're ONLY used for convenience.
It's why cheap audio equipment has 'em but the good shit doesn't, because it's shit.
>>
>>2548806
Stop using your rusty channellocks to crimp. Get a real crimper and they will never fail.
>>
>>2548810
I assume the correct way to crimp uninsulated terminals is with one of those curly dies. But what about insulated ones? The tools I see are just a flat squasher. Is it just about using excessive force?
>>
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How do people make things like this? Is there an "easy" way to do it or do you have to be an engineer?
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>>2548810
>whether crimped, soldered, or otherwise
>High resistance, easily deformed, they corrode together into a heap of useless shit, they're ONLY used for convenience.
Garbage is garbage.
>>
>>2548823
>https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fusion+360+fluids
It's not as bad as it looks.
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FUUUU-
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>>2548835
Was extruding a belt part of your plan?
>>
>>2548823
The term you are looking for is
>Computional Fluid Dynamics
>>
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Tourist from /3/. Just fixed my kitchen scissors. I have literally just 10 hours of 3d printing experience and damn it felt good repairing something. Printed on a cheapo 200 usd ender 3. Might just get a litho printer when i get the hand of plaatic melting. This is fun.
>>
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>>2548836
Well I did need a reason to install a new genuine Gates® PowerGrip™ GT™ synchronous belt.
It's really dumb because yesterday I changed my Y carriage and when I was looking at the belt, I thought I should probably change it. Here is a pic of the side that didn't break but it had the same mark on it.
>>
>>2548856
get the fuck out, we don't make useful things here.
>>
Anyone else run into an issue with Fusion 360 where you think you're right about at the end, but then you need to make a minor, but critical change, but when you do it propagates down your timeline and now all your features are broken and your part turns into just a jumbled mess of spaghetti and you haven't even tried printing it yet?

Maybe my workflow is just shit, but I think I'm going to start all over. Maybe I can just branch this file so I can keep the current parts for comparison.
>>
>>2548856
No penises, no t-rex, no Dwayne Johnson head, just a functional pair of scissors, what a little faggot.
>>
>>2548878
>>2548856

Glad to see how the /3dpg/ community is. I'm hooked. Thanks faggots.
>>
Why do my prints look weird where they get in contact with support?
I use SuperSlicer's default settings for it, not sure if there's something I should fiddle with.
>>
>>2548870
Trust me I'v already done it. This was my first 3d print ever.

>>>/3/929689
>>>/3/932063
>>
>>2548856
fuck.
maybe 10 hours of 3dp experience, but that's a few more in 3d modeling experience.
How do i get good at this?
>>
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Been working on a new air filter setup for this 96 Geo Tracker.
Currently has shit-tier Spectre filter with a pantyhose prefilter sucking hot farts from the space above the exhaust manifold, no good.
Chose a 2020 Yaris air filter because they're easy to find, small, flows more than enough for the G16B, and they run about $10.
Started with a quick and dirty scan of the engine bay and went from there.
The box fits fine in the space provided, but I'm really uninspired with how to finish it out and connect it to the MAF sensor.
I've done several derivatives, like the stupid yellow elbow in the pics, but I'm not feeling it. Even if I make it fit, it's gross, and it's bad.
I've scrolled through Google images for hours looking at air filter housings trying to find ideas or inspiration for where to go with this design, but I'm having trouble seeing the forest for the trees here.
Drinking and staring out the window hasn't solved it, staying up for several days drinking only black coffee and not eating hasn't solved it, masturbating to my old works hasn't solved it.
Now what?
>>
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>>2548900
Yes I do have 15+ years experience in poly modelling. That handle was like 15 minutes in 3ds max. The same way you get gud. Study and practice, personally I am an archviz pro and between other stuff I model chairs professionally. I would personally recommend practicing hard surface modelling because it will give you the mental structure of topology that nurbs or cad modelling doesn't give you. Hard surface modelling it the gateway to model from a scissor handle, to a human body, a building, a trex all with the same ease. This chair is 100% poly modelled including each fiber *for factory referencing
>>
>>2548909
Watch a bunch of Julian Edgar videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgGRwLANkj4
>>
>>2548836
Of course!
>>
>>2548886
Kek, based beyond belief.
>>
>>2548875
I don't know much about poor-people CAD, but in Solidworks usually the way to deal with this is to roll back the feature tree to the first broken feature, fix whatever sketch references or feature parameters got fucked off, then roll to the next broken feature, and repeat until your model is sound again.
>>
>>2548875
There is always ctrl-z, also.
>>
>>2548894
youll fit right in lol
threads a weird eclectic bunch of rejects probably but you must be too otherwise you wouldnt be here
>>
>>2548889
Maybe the support interface material is getting stuck to your print? Like most things, you should do some tuning to find what works best. Or just take a razor blade to it.
>>
>>2548917
Looks fun, will do.
>>
>>2548926
Now what's the next step of your master plan?
>>
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Does anyone know how I would get rid of these small yellow lines in Cura? I'm trying to print a calibration part but only need one wall thick but on many layers are these little marks. It does it right at the end of each layer.
>>
>>2548949
Crashing this print head, with no survivors!
>>
>>2548959
You need to stick it in vase mode for ringing/input shaping/resonance/jerk/junction deviation tuning patterns.
"Spiralize Outer Contour" under "Special Modes"
1 or 2 bottom layers, infill and tops don't matter because they don't exist in vase mode.
>>
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>>2548432
Your wife was right.
You know, anon, nowadays there are complicated camera/software solutions which may be expensive but are considerably cheaper and simpler than a wife. Just saying.
>>
>>2548962
Ah shit, that's easy. Thanks anon!
>>
new idea: v-roller saver
it's like a screensaver, it keeps the rollers moving 24/7 to prevent flat spots when not in use
the print head would move diagonally and bounce off the edges, and very rarely it would bounce exactly into the corner
>>
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rate my benchy made of ninjaflex tpu
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>>2548987
They don’t get flat spots if you tighten them correctly.
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>>2549025
>>
>>2548990
Clean af, share parameters
Whenever I print ninjaflex I just use PLA parameters, crank it to 230 and slow it to 25mm/s, and it rightfully comes out shitty
>>
Anyone has conerted a printer into a laser cutter? Is it right that only co2 can cut trasparent acrylic? I have a bunch laying around and I dunno if a purple laser can at least engrave it.
>>
recommend me a good DIY or buy enclosure for an ender 3 that isn't the creality fire hazard tent or ripoff $400 1mm thick acrylic boxes. I want to be able to print with fumey bois without being forced to evacuate my office for 12 hours or risk getting turbo cancer later down the road.
>>
>>2548911
can i learn surface modelling using a CAD like fusion360 or solidworks? any good starting points on youtube?

that handle would take me at least 1.5 hour doing it without surface modelling... tho to be fair to myself most of that time would be me sperging out trying to 'optimize' it
>>
>>2548990
How much can you squish it? Looks good!
>>
Is there any cheaper diy alternative to the speed and reliability of the bambu p1p. Vorons arent cheap.
>>
>>2549055
Nope sorry both cad suites use surface use a NURBS like workflow using tsplines, surface tools and patches. Its because those programs are designed to represent object ina matematically perfect and replicable way. I use 3ds max but a free alternativecto poly hard surface modelling would be blender. But beware, if you model object like this handle I would suggest to stick with traditional cad software. Only if you need to model something more organic like a Dwayne johnson octopus bobblehead you should dwelve into poly modelling.
>>
>>2549055
I must clear up that there is always a confusion between surface modelling, hard surface modelling and pily modelling. What I meant by hard surface modelling was "box modelling" in the animation/archviz industry. The grand mayority of cad software is taylored for "surface modelling" because we represent obhects by their surfaces, an alternative would be point cloud or voxel modelling. So "hard surface poly modelling" is what I do and fusion 360 is "surface modelling". Why some people still choose pily modelling instad of nurbs modelling? Cuz polygon flow let you animate those surfaces like in 3d anumation or letscyou optimize triangulation directly into the mesh like in the game industry. Beware. Even ifcyou model in poly or in jurbs it all comes down to triangles when we parsecfiles into stls.
>>
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>>2548889
weird how? if it looks like loose spaghet on the bottom your support interface is too big. this is way more evident on thicker layers for me and even more so with PETG. you can't have 0 without support interface material, but you can reduce it there is less of a gap but the support still breaks off.
>>
I really need to learn to only change one parameter at a time when resin printing. I had a simple failure turn into a larger failure because I adjusted so much stuff.
>>
>>2549035
>":D"
>>
>>2548175
I like the setup, do you live in the UK/EU though? this looks like a european basement
>>
>>2548236
"thanks to the anon"
fuckin reddit user gtfo

good storage setup though. Put up more supports?
>>
>>2548775
Torture tests?
>>
>>2548963
lmao the cost effectiveness of a spouse
>>
Help me out here-
I want to print a shpongle mask for my dad as a gift (pic related)
How should I make tests to make sure the mask can fit?
>>
>>2549162
I would photoscan your dads face using reality capture or something similar andcthe model form there. Also great taste in music.
>>
>>2549156
>americunt plugs
>typical americunt door
>"looks like a european basement"
You might need glasses.
>>
>>2549183
Sorry but judging from most of the pics of European "housing" I've seen that could easily have been a Euro bedroom or living room.
>>
>>2549049
stack 2 ikea lacks, tape cardboard or foam or any other material across the top tables lags, put ender inside.
then you can either vent it out with a pc case fan and some ducting out a window, or through a filter.
>>
>>2549025
>>2549035
>>2549128
He moved across the screen, btw. It would blink every few seconds and he'd be a few pixels over.

I think this happened because I left my SD card with the current firmware plugged in after rebooting the printer. Removing the SD card removed the happy little man and the vortex of chaos enveloping him.
>>
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Could some ender 3 z belt anon help me, i'm trying to tension the belts but pano tuner isn't helping at all, always reading in the 1000s even with external mic. Relatively how tight are they supposed to be compared to the other belts?
>>
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>>2549227
holyshit stop dumping money into this turd. you're like the fags who put wings and fart cannons on civics
>>
>>2549238
>Holy shit you spend a few shillings on your hobby?
lol kys retard
>>
>>2549227
Enough, definitely not as much as the X or Y axis belts.
So long as the gantry moves freely under power, but it DOESN'T fall when you switch it off.
It doesn't need anything more than that, gravity it doing the real job here, the belts only need to be "tight enough" to not slip/skip when the power is cut.
If it moves smooth and free, but doesn't fall on its own, then you're perfect.
>>
I was looking at the various Voron's BOMs and all of them use 1.8° step motors. Why is this? I thought they would use 0.9° motors. Would it be a bad idea to build one and use 0.9° motors?
>>
>>2549246
Excellent, thanks anon.
>>
>>2549257
Because they don't perform as well as 1.8s, and have no real benefits.
>>
>>2549257
Lots of reasons.
For the Z axis and Extruder, they're geared, the switch to 0.9 will not make any appreciable difference.
For X and Y, they can offer increased resolution, but to what end?
Your X/Y resolution is already ~0.0125mm with 1.8 degree steppers, accurate enough that filament variances will make far larger differences than anything with the steppers.
They can potentially produce smoother surfaces, some still swear by them for limiting VFAs in prints.
There's a big trade-off though, the controller has to work twice as hard to flail those motors around, and it's just not fast enough for that.
The big claim to fame for a Voron is speed, and with 0.9 degree motors you will be limiting your speed, the controllers just can't keep up at those high rates with 0.9 degree steppers on X and Y.

They explain this well in the FAQ:
>Can I use 0.9 degree stepper motors rather than the spec’ed 1.8 degree motors?

If you want to run 0.9 degree steppers and NOT run into speed limits, you may even need to step away from Klipper.
The typical SKR 1.4, FYSETC Spider/S6, MKS Monster8, BTT Octopus, they're just not fast enough to keep up.
The SKR Pico "might" be enough, and the PandaZhu "might" be okay; paired with a Pi4B you "might" be able to keep up with other Voron machines.

Generally speaking, just don't, don't think about it, worry about it, I really don't recommend trying to find a way to make it work.
I strongly encourage you to forget 0.9 degree steppers if you're building a Voron, just forget they exist, you don't want them.
>>
>>2549272
Oh I left out a fun note:
A 0.9 degree running at 1/8 microstepping will have the same resolution as a 1.8 degree at 1/16 (normal) microstepping, but theoretically a tiny bit more torque!
Again, don't, but I thought that was worth sharing.
>>
finally used the set of calipers I bought to measure a draft print, and it fit...I feel like I passed a milestone
>>
>>2549278
Wait till you pass a kidney stone
>>
>>2549321
I'll measure it with my calipers, of course.
>>
>>2549025
>>2549035
just reflash it with a tl866 and a known good hex file
>>
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What are the top recommended 3D printers for industrial purposes? It doesn't have to be a huge printer. Should one just pick from the "Over 1000 USD" list or are there other or better go-to suggestions?
>>
>>2549366
People are digging the Bambu Labs X1 (Carbon) at the moment. Not sure if I'd call it industrial, it might be more high-end consumer. Industrial printers tend to go for 10 times that price, but at that point you're either looking at chinese sellers with no reviews, or euro/american sellers who are obviously ripping you off.

Considering how fast the technology is developing, I'd stick to upper-end hobby printers because they have to stay relevant to make money. Buying an industrial printer without knowing what you're getting could have you end up with obsolete tech.

That said, are you after any features that aren't commonly available? Like full colour blending, extreme speed, very fine resolution, more than 3 axes, or specialist materials?
>>
>>2549374
No special features beyond what are in hobbyist printers, but want something that's quick and reliable and low effort. That one seems to be recommended elsewhere too.
>>
Is there anyway to print BPA to make drinkable containers?
>>
>>2549377
see a psychiatrist for your mental illness
some haldol would fix your problem
>>
if I have an ender 3 and a resin printer printing on the same table, will the jerkiness of the ender mess up resin prints?
>>
>>2549380
a psychiatrist would push them farther along that path anon
>>
>>2549376
>low effort 3d printing.
about as common as low effort cnc machining.
the least effort you can do is hire a specialist to run it for you.
It depends on what you want to call "industrial use". It's a vaguely defined bordering on non-term.
Bamboo labs x1 carbon is fantastic for the price, though do keep in mind it's limited to just the more common materials and just the one print head. If you want to go peek/ultem/continuous carbon fiber then your budget grows as your options shrink.
>>
>>2549377
I don't kow why but I do find the thought of trannies scurrying away with refuse at a plastic facility after hours quite hilarious.
>>
>>2549366
Like all industrial equipment, it depends on your needs.
For full color insanely high quality printing where appearance is everything, I recommend Mimaki.
Their 3DUJ-553 comes in at a mild $189,000 and it is untouched in what it can achieve.
Full 40bit CMYKA (yes, it does transparency), inkjet based, just fabulously impressive results it produces.

If you're working in steel or aluminum from a production machining operation standpoint, I recommend DMS in Colorado.
Diversified Machine Systems, they make high-end CNC equipment, and their machines are top-notch.
They have just a small handful of off-the-shelf options, their big get is doing custom one-off variants of machines.
Boeing in Wichita has a MASSIVE DMS printer used to produce molds and tooling akin to what they use in their St Louis op.
Their printing capabilities include pellet-based FDM, as well as LMD Aluminum and Steel printing, typically as part of full CNC machines.
Print in aluminum, machine it perfect, print the nylon right onto it, all in one machine.
Prices vary depending on your needs and scale, starting under $20k with absolutely no upper limit, their custom stuff can push into the millions.

If you're looking for a typical desktop FDM printer that you can trust to use in a professional setting, I recommend a typical FDM printer with professional backing.
That means absolutely NO Prusa, Bambu, Creality, just fuck no, on this scale they're equally poor options.
Raise3D and Ultimaker are my top brands for this. Hobbyists just see their overpriced printers, but professionals get what they pay for.
If you need to use a 3D printer in a professional environment that doesn't need to be some special crazy capable machine, Raise3D and Ultimaker.
Expect $1k - $7k depending on your requirements.
>>
>>2549238
move the gantry all the way pluck in the middle on the side where there is the most length of belt

>>2549238
>35 dollars sourcing parts
It is nearly the only mod I recommend for the ender 3, because its actually cheap and it reuses existing parts, also
>the creator of the mod is german

German engineering is überlegen
>>
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>>2549366
depends on the purpose. SLS is still the best prototyping, Photorealistic 3D Printing is probably the best market to get into.
>>
>>2549377
BPA is a plastic hardener not a plastic. if you want to poison your dad just run a printer in his room.
>>
>>2549376
If you are 110 IQ or below, go Bambu. Higher than 110, build a Voron.
>>
>>2549374
>>2549389
>>2549399
>>2549414
>>2549422
Thank you, this is good to know.
>>
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After four tries, I have successfully printed her. My first non -calibration print on my new resin printer.
>Attempt 1, poor supports. Leg snaps off
>Attempt 2, forget to screw build plate down, shocked it printed at all desu. I edited the model to make it easier to print (adding geometry to reinforce her legs, bow, that you can see anyway)
>Attempt 3, printed two at once to try two different support methods. Small failure in her breast, but salvageable with some miliput.
Resin printing is way easier than fdm in my opinion. It's also a lot messier and stinks.
>>
>>2549410
German tech is legendary for being expensive over engineered garbage that's impossible to fix.
>>
>>2549496
The resin doesn't stink, she does
>>
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>>2549496
Close up.
>>
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What do you think would make this happen? Z rod is fine with Oldham coupler.
>>
>>2549496
what do people do with these things? do they just live on a shelf?
>>
>>2549503
Looks like you are warping from too much cooling, and that's giving you the layer artifacts. Is that PLA? What fan and cooling setting are you running?
>>
>>2549497
Good thing it's a simple mod, and easy to fix.
>>
>>2549503
There's a lot going on with this print.
Underextrusion, overextrusion, over-cooling, retraction problems, deretraction problems, bed adhesion problems.
Give us some background, this a new printer, new material? What is the printer, and what is the material?
First print ever, or experienced printer with new unexplained issue?
>>
>>2549510
Its PLA.
>>
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>>2548909
this is MILES ahead of what I tried to do :(
doesn't help that I have to go in 4 different orientation at the same time with a fucking LOFT that refuses to work 90% of the time.
>>
>>2549514
Thats what I thought.

Printer is a stock, except oldham, and 20mm raised bed Anycubic Kobra, It has 100s of hours use, I've not used it for a few weeks and decided to give it a run last night with some copper silk pla.

Bed adhesion is an issue, I have a PEI but its had some chemical damage - some unexplained substance was wiped over it and it now has issues where it sticks, and also doesnt stick. It still puts a mean 1st layer down. So the lifting and curling is 'ok' - a known issue until the replacement PEI arrives.

My query is the messy layering. the primary defects look consistent - so its linked to one of the axis motors - probably Z.

I was curious about how many issues the whole print could check off though - its a bit from column A and a bit from column B,

Under extrude, de-lamination, ringing etc etc.

Previous to this it was printing almost perfect, and without flaw.
>>
>>2549510
Just noticed the fan speed is jacked to 100% That could be one issue.

its usually set for whatever Prusa sets as default.
>>
>>2549516
Ok, assuming it was an Ender 3 that birthed that abomination, maybe do like 60% fan on larger prints like that, possibly as low as 40% if it's a big open structure instead of a solid part with infill. Save the 80-100% fan for small parts that have their speed gated by your Minimum Layer Time setting in the slicer (you can just leave that at 15 seconds for now if it's not already there).
Next, take the time to calibrate your flow and retraction distance+speed, as seen here: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
That guide is written for a printer running Klipper in mind, but all the concepts apply to chinkbox printers, you just might have to change some things in the slicer settings instead of in the printer config.
>>
>>2549519
>Silk
There's your problem. See if you can print regular PLA without spawning another mutant.
The Yellow Man dumps various grades of industrial waste in the pellet hopper to make "silk" filaments. Why pay for disposal when gweilo can pay you?
>>
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>>2549522
If it were a new roll i'd chalk it up to poor qualitly

but this roll usually runs pretty well. Its kept dry but it was a humid hot day last night and there was a fan in the room.

i'm thinking the cooling fan is dead on. at least 80% of the problem.
>>
>>2549523
What accent color are you going for?
>>
>sticks to nothing, not even itself
Name one worse filament.

I have boatloads of this shit. What do I do with it?
>>
>>2549529
I use it as interface material for supports.
Practically falls off of PLA+, even easier than PETG does.
I never would've known had I not picked up their matte pink to make a handful of little pigs with little dicks at one point.
>>
>>2549272
>I strongly encourage you to forget 0.9 degree steppers if you're building a Voron, just forget they exist, you don't want them.
Thanks for the info. I was more curious than anything because I was thinking about the motors on my CNC machine and how the worst are just plain stepper motors but the really good ones have encoders and stuff built into them and can be tuned via software. Those are a lot different though. I'm guessing you probably don't want a high torque motor on a 3D printer.
>>
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I printed this because I wanted a bit of storage, specifically for my Allen keys. Right now, they are all just stuck on a rare earth magnet on the front of my printer.
I'm OK with how it turned out but I just learned about Gridfinity today. I'm going to print a bunch of them so I can organize my printer space. If you guys haven't heard of it, you should check it out. I'll post a couple of pictures.
>>
>>2549505
yeah, like 95% of all things 3d printed.
>>
>>2549530
>a handful of little pigs with little dicks
tell me more
>>
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So Gridfinity is an open-source modular storage system. It's basically a grid with various sized boxes and containers. There's a ton of different options and if there isn't what you want, then you can just design it yourself. The guy who made it is kind of weird but it's worth checking out.
>>
>>2549529
spend entire rolls tweaking settings until you get something halfway decent, of course.
>>
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>>2549546
These are just a few examples of the various pieces you can print. You can make the grid as small as you want or as big as you can print. Everything is standardized for size so it all fits in the grid. Pretty neat idea I think. Plus it's open-source which is great.
>>
>>2549546
I think it's already pretty well-known on this general. At least I've seen it mentioned a handful of times in the past few months. I don't really like how it requires so many magnets, would rather see dovetails.
>>
>>2549552
Why dovetails? Might be kind of hard to do with the average printer.
>>
>>2549530
>a handful of little pigs with little dicks
Post pics for the OP collage
>>
>>2549554
You could get away with a 30 degree overhang, which wouldn't be hard to print. But it would be a bit bulkier.
>>
>>2549559
I'm thinking of a series of vertical dovetails like straight down Z where there wouldn't be any overhangs so I'm not sure what orientation you mean, unless you mean just a single dovetail for each X/Y side of a cube.
>>
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>>2549548
This system is stupid. Why would you want to cover your workspace with a bunch of little cubbies when you can just get a few of these and have something much more useful.
>>
>>2549562
>a single dovetail for each
I was thinking just the X or just the Y. You'd slide the cubes sideways into a frame, so they can't be pulled out vertically. Some sort of plate would go across the front. The other option is dovetails on X and Y, and you'd clamp the compartments between two halves of a frame.

If you're putting a mounting plate on the wall, then you'd use some sort of french cleat holding system instead. Combining both possibilities into one compartment would be neat. Dovetail around the edges, punt in the bottom, latching features around the top edge.

>>2549568
You fill up a flat drawer with them, maybe even multiple layers per drawer. Those mini drawer racks are great for using vertical space, but if you have a big chest of drawers you should be able to store way more parts in them so long as they're properly compartmentalised.
>>
>>2549568
I just want a better system to organize my desk which is basically a bunch of piles of bullshit right now.
>>
Does anyone know a site or someone who has tested various hotends and extruders for flow rates and such? I want to upgrade from my direct drive V6 to something better.
>>
>>2549568
I have two of those that getting filled with my fastener botls, and nuts, but I want to keep them separated from my other stuff.

>>2549569
As anon has said here, you use them in a drawer. for a while I didn't consider using it, however, I did end up liking them for 2 reasons.

>rim all around for the groove on another bin to sit properly instead of other bins relying on the groove and sitting crooked.
>slide/ramp on one wall so it's easier to grab small parts

Fucking duponts are a pain in the ass to grab before.

but I dont use that specific gridfinity system, I've been slightly modifying this openscad gridfinity one instead
>https://www.printables.com/model/174346-gridfinity-openscad-model

so I am not following gridfinity bullshit, just like those two things, I slightly modified my drawers as stated here >>2548224

to fit same sized bin both width and depth, I am overall happy with it, I am in the progress of moving my stuff from my old bins.
>>
>>2549523
That looks fantastic. Is that really ABS? Did you iron the top of it or...?
>>
>>2549496
>salvageable with some miliput
coomers: zero taste
>>
>>2549546
>The guy who made it is kind of weird
your mom is kind of a whore
>>
>>2549529
>Advertises matte surface
>Matte makes layer lines more visible
What a turd in a roll
>>
>>2549444
>Thank you, this is good to know.
Is it? You haven't even defined what you application is.
Is it selling crap on etsy or is it supporting an engineering team developing a crap product?
How detailed must this crap be?
>>
>>2549529
wew i was thinking of getting one as my next roll, i guess it's not gonna happen anymore
>>
>>2549675
Matte definitely does make layers and artifacts less visible.
>>
>>2549544
This is why I find the 3d printing communities so cringe.
We have endless functional creative power and possibilities available to us, only cucked by our own creativity. Yet all those basedboyz faggots are jerking themselves over shitty PLA figurine bullshit.

Before anyone asks, I make composites fiber mold and plugs out of ABS.
>>
Is a kobra neo or a sovol sv06 a better printer? It will be my first printer.
>>
>>2549726
What sort of finishing do you do on the molds? Was interested in making some myself.
>>
>>2549732
Be careful with those 3rd tier printer brands like Sovol, Kingroon, Artillery, etc.

Not saying they won't work, but you're going to get better QC from a Creality and much better odds of it working out of the box.
>>
>>2549738
What about any cubic? Sovol and anycubic seem to have better reviews than creality.

The big thing is there are sales going on right now.
I can get a biqu b1 for 150$ and a anycubic kobra neo for 190$ or the sovol sv06 for 250$.

The kobra neo and sovol sv06 are both direct feed and the sovol sv06 has "planetary gears" in the head. They both are auto level.

The print quality in the sv06 and kobra neo both look excellent as well.
>>
>>2549734
Sand Sand Sand Sand Sand and Sand some more.
Then when applying a mold resin on top of a nearly perfect surface, you get a desirable result.
I've tried cheating and going with heavy coats of mold resins thinking it would self-level and cover the layer lines but that was wishful thinking, you have to put in the work. A well made (with draft) ABS mold will net me 50+ parts, I use quality products.
>>
>>2549726
Fucking Jannies who replaced BASEDBOYS FAGGOTS with some gay tranny shit. Rope yourself
>>
>>2549758
Ok Jannies, have it your way.
Kill this community by editing posts, accelerate
>>
>>2549738
>you're going to get better QC from a Creality and much better odds of it working out of the box

You're a lying cocksucker.
>>
>>2549757
Are there any kind of easy sanding mold "primers" that would be put over and then sanded down to speed it up?
>>
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>>2549545
>>2549557
Unfortunately I don't have any laying around, they were for a co-worker at the time, but I do still have the stl.
Just a cute thingiverse pig I granted the gift of masculinity.

I worked in sales at the time, keeping a handful of generic "neat" prints on my desk was great.
Kept kids distracted, fascinated stoners, raised questions from most 18-25 year old's, impressed and confused all the boomer co-workers, etc.
Gave away countless articulated models, like those little t-rex's, fishbones, sharks, cephalopods, dinosaur skulls, Ford flathead V8 blocks, complete Subaru EJ20 engines from the resin printer (those were pretty cool), just fun shit.
>>
when do I use purge filament? just found some i lost a year ago in my car lol
>>
>>2549757
What material did you use?
>>
>>2549784
What's up with /3dpg/ and storing filament in cars? That shit should get dropped off by FedUp, the Brown Clown, or the postal slave, then go right in the dryer, and into your gasketed storage containers with desiccant. Otherwise your prints WILL get made fun of here.
Don't tell me you let brick and mortar retailers choose your filament selection for you, they just sell whatever is most profitable to have on the shelves. You should be ordering directly from the premium manufacturer of YOUR choice.
>>
>>2549784
Also, to answer your question, you did in fact get memed on with the purge filament. Just run about a foot of the new filament through your extruder when you switch types, and that should be enough to clear out any old filament. You know, when switching between PLA, ABS, TPU, and gay plastic.
>>
>>2549827
Start with a cold-pull and it takes about 1 inch of filament.
Purge filament is a scam.
>>
>>2549732
Go the Neo. I have 5 printers and the Kobra was best out of the box.

Recommend it for a noob.
>>
>>2549823
>drying PLA
>for anyone living outside of florida-tier humidity
sure thing gweilo
>>
>>2549823
>>2549844
this lol, kept rolls of PLA in my car for months sealed and printed them just fine. same with rolls lying around my room/in my hallway.
>>
>>2549844
I live in Florida and didn't use my printer for ~2 years, left it on my bench mostly assembled with the two 200g rolls of filament it came with opened, on the holder, and loaded in the extruder. Finally came back to it and start printing a week ago and they were just about perfect. One color seemed to string a bit more, but the other ran fantastic. Once they were done, grabbed the roll of Hatbox off my first printer that had been sitting open for even longer and that ran fine as well.

PLA just doesn't need it unless you're in Atlantis-tier humidity.
>>
>>2549762
calm down newfag, it's been like that for years
>>
>>2549546
>>2549548
I have a suspicion this is the dude.
If so, your initial impression is weird, but you grow on people. Keep it up, I guess? I dunno how to work on the fact that it takes a few videos to really get your sense of humor.
>>
>>2549850
>>2549855
>PLA stays dry as cougar pussy
Well I don't know that, I'm an ABS and TPU guy, I dry before every print!
>>
>>2549890
abs does not absorb much either. tpu is the only one that makes a slight difference but then again when I order ninja tech the best tpu it comes loose in a box no bag and prints just fine out the box
>>
>>2549762
>anon makes his first encounter with the word filter
hey, try saying t b h , f a m, or s o y without the spaces
>>
>>2549784
>when do I use purge filament?
half as often as you change your blinker fluid.
>>
>>2549876
holy shit how new can you be. he doesn't post here he's counting the wraps on spools of filament right now.
>>
>>2549855
printing is fine with my year old roll but it cracked and broke when retracting, was fractured just by running through the bowden tube. but it still printed fine. put it through the solvol dryer and it works fine for multiple retractions now. I would have saved hours and at least one print if I'd dryed the roll that "didn't seem like it needed it" before trying to fire it up. I cycled all my other rolls through and will make a 6h trip through the dryer SOP before loading from now on.
>>
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I've got an ender 3 and want to get a proper klipper install and possibly get my raspberry pi back (that I am currently using for octoprint)
I've got a stock board and am looking to get a board to handle all the best frakenstein upgrades
already got a bltouch
Need to setup ADXL345 for resonnance testing and (active?) shaping
Want to use the fancy tmc2209's for better motor driving
The BigTree skr3ez looks nice but I'm not sure if it will have everything I want or if there are better options I should be running instead.
What am I missing?
I might need a new LCD to interact with the board, but I'm also fine if I can only interact over the web interface.

What are your recommendations, lads?
>>
>>2549962
If you haven't done it already, maybe get a nicer hotend (plus a new beefy heater tube). Klipper lets you run faster, you'll want at least a V6 to keep up.
>>
>>2549962
The SKR3 and I presume the SKR3 EZ are too big to fit in the stock mainboard space. SKR Mini E3v3 is the same size as the original, and has everything you really need. You don't need the extra stepper driver or the extra hotend output. It would make sense on a Prusa i3, which has dual Z and can self level the gantry, or an Idex. Not for a stock Ender 3.
>>
>>2549962
makerbase and skr e3 v2 or v3 are direct drop in replacements.

>makerbase mks robin e3d
>https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800595429930.html

^^ need to buy tmc2209 separately

>SKR mini e3 v2.0
>https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800863830263.html

>SKR mini e3 v3.0
>https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803333571147.html

^^ v2, and v3 have tmc2209 included on the board.

These 3 can drop right in. But, if you are feeling adventurous

>SKR Pico
>https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803861059736.html

^ SKR pico uses RP2040 chip, its as big as a raspberry pi, and you can stack RPi on top,

Downside:
not direct drop in replacement, but you can print mount adapters.
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5254712
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5777797

features are limited you can do bltouch,
I am not sure on screens but if you are doing klipper you can attach a screen that klipperscreen supports on your rpi.

I only recommended SKR pico because you see it always on sale (USD atleast) for 23 bucks and already has tmc2209 but its just small and meant for voron v0.1 which I have one to put in there, but I bought a second skr pico to put in my cr10s pro.
>>
>>2549972
I already did the Microswiss DD upgrade and a spare hotend, my tpu prints are solid rn.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XM637F5
would it really be worth it to upgrade the hotend to something beefier?

>>2549975
tyty

>>2549976
ooo liking the mini e3v3

I'm hoping to not attach the rpi to my printer, that mainsail should be enough.
>>
>>2549978
>, that mainsail should be enough.

Yeah mainsail has klipper bundled with it, if you add a webcam be sure to install "crowsenest" too.
>>
>>2549978
>would it really be worth it to upgrade the hotend to something beefier?
Nah, that thing looks pretty much like a V6, maybe think about a Dragon HF or a Rapido later on though, if you start to outrun the flow.

>>2549983
>crowsnest
I'm surprised they haven't integrated that by now, considering how vital it is to actually making the camera work.
>>
how hydroscopic is PLA? and what are the symptoms of wet PLA?
>>
>>2550024
https://www.bilby3d.com.au/Newsletters/PLA's%20susceptibility%20to%20humid%20conditions%20and%20what%20you%20can%20do.pdf
>>
Does double thread rod make a big improvement?
>>
Thinking about getting a small butcher block tabletop and mounting it with foldable shelf brackets. I was gonna do 18" by 36" and the foldable ones seem the sturdiest at that size, would it jiggle around once it's locked in place or would it be solid enough for a jerky printer?
>>
>>2550038
>Simply store your filament in an airtight container with desiccants.
cant you "regenerate" those desiccant packs that come with the filament and also just reuse the bag the spool comes in?
>>
>>2550048
I think you need to get the kind that can be regenerated. Look on amazon.
>>
>>2550042
If you mean dual z rod, theres a comment in previous thread about that. >>2545901

Pic related shows using a second rod with a belt being ran from the stock motor, I never tried this one so I can't say if it wears the motor out or not, but since its running a toothed belt and will stay in sync (unlike I mentioned in my other comment for a different setup) I would say its fine to try, especially if you source hardware and print the parts

>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3746653
>>
>>2550067
Oops I meant dual z motor
>>
>>2548507
the LCD itself heats the resin fairly well as it's printing. unless you are printing in a very cold environment, you should only need to warm it up before starting the print, which if easily done by submerging the (cleaned) bottle in hot water, or gently using a hair dryer in the vat and stirring
>>
So I accidentally broke a little cleaning pin in my direct drive extruder trying to push down some filament...yeah I probably sound like a retard. But I fixed my clog, and it seems to be printing okay. Should I just...keep going? I have to assume the pin is in the PTFE or some shit
>>
>>2550068
Dual Z motors is worth it if you run independent drivers, then you can let it automagically level the x-gantry if you have a probe.
Dual Z from a single driver is archaic, and though it works fine if you level the gantry regularly, it can make z-axis issues *worse* if it's not set up well.
Using a dual leadscrews with a single motor, once it's been leveled it isn't going anywhere.

If you're going to the effort of all of that, for a similar price to the Chinese kits you can go with Z-Belts instead.
Single or Dual motor, same story as before I recommend dual only if they're on independent drivers and you have a probe.
Much nicer solution than anything with leadscrews, but much more work to set up than dual leadscrew kits.
>>
>>2550067
>>2550073
Oh I was asking about what they do on the sovol sv06
https://sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv06-direct-drive-3d-printer?variant=40106603774040
"Dual Z axis"
>>
>>2550074
Single Driver, dual steppers, x-gantry leveling as advertised is a lie and isn't usable.
It's the worst arrangement in my opinion, because it requires the most work, but it's not at all unusual.
>>
>>2550090
A lot of places are saying that is the best under 300$ printer? Also considering a Kobra neo for 190$.
Is the all metal print head good?
>>
>>2550090
>x-gantry leveling as advertised is a lie and isn't usable
Doesn't it just ram it to the end until both motors stall? Assuming the end-stops are perfectly level relative to the bed I can see that working, but it's pretty jank.

Wonder if there's an easy method to adjust belt offset of a single-stepper dual-z setup. Movable idlers on either side of the belt? The idlers would be under a lot of constant tension though, 3D printed parts may need to be pretty beefy to hold up to that long-term.
Being able to manually inject steps into just one of two motors might be a cheap way of making the SV06 better. Don't suppose its main board can easily be upgraded with another driver, can it?

>>2550091
Still probably is the best under $300, but it has its faults.
>>
>>2550104
Is a filament drier good? They have it 255$ for the printer or 300$ for the printer and dual filament drier?

Also, considering this one instead: https://www.anycubic.com/collections/kobra-series/products/kobra-neo
>>
>>2550111
I'd consider the filament drier if you'll be doing stuff other than PLA. Nylon especially.
>kobra neo
Single rod, v-rollers? Can't see it being much better than an e3v2 with some hot-end and bed upgrades, though it's priced appropriately. I'd get the sv06, though mainly because I already have an e3v2 that I plan on upgrading to be on-par with the kobra neo. Honestly it's up to you what you want to spend on it, generally I'd say they're both pretty good value. If you can find out that the main board has the GPIO to get better dual-z driving, then I'd definitely go for it. That's the only thing that's particularly undesirable about it from what I hear.
>>
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i'm still searching for an alternative to my BMG / V6 combo

is the OMG v2 kit good ?
>>
>>2550073
>Dual Z motors is worth it if you run independent drivers

Agreed. When op asked about dual z I immediately thought.
>Dual Z from a single driver is archaic

since most consumer setups are like that.

>If you're going to the effort of all of that, for a similar price to the Chinese kits you can go with Z-Belts instead

I have z belt on my ender 3, and its absolutely the best mod for the price, no meme, but its not a silver bullet.
>>
>>2549667
Relax Zack no one is talking about your fat tumblr wife or your söybuilt noodle arms
>>
new bread

>>2550365
>>
What's the best way to figure out "run_current" for my driver configuration in Klipper? I just changed stepper motors and the new motors are 2.0A but I'm not sure I should set it to that. I think my current setting is around .8A, which is the same as my old motors current rating.
>>
When you come home from a long day of doing nothing at work and see a completed 3D print...with extrusion fails all over it but perfect details. I would've rather seen spaghetti.
>>
why tf is my printer clicking every time it retracts when I use PETG?
I've tried reducing/increasing retraction distance and speed, to no avail.
My printer is a mostly stock ender 3.
>>
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What the fuck does "increase perimeter width over thickness" mean? What fucking setting is that?
>>
>>2550532
Might need to calibrate your extruder and mess with the temperature.

I have to print PETG at 240°C and had to turn my e-steps up from 93mm to 96mm to keep my ender 3 from clogging itself up with the stuff.
>>
>>2550546
nvm, it's some ancient jargon?
https://edutechwiki.unige.ch/en/Skeinforge_for_RapMan
>>
Is freeCAD awful compared to the alternatives I really don't want to use cloud based shit if I can avoid it but all the feedback I seem to get is that free cad is a buggy mess.
>>
>>2550676
FreeCAD isn't buggy, it's unforgiving.

What's your problem with cloud-based? I only use free shit like TinkerCAD in that department.
>>
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Hey so I'm looking at getting either the
biqu b1 se plus
Or the. Ender3 max neo

I'm looking for the larger buildspace but idk if it's worth going for the more expensive ender for the "name" brand also it comes with 2 z rods. Anyone have any experience with either?

Ender max 390$ amazon 370$ website

biqu b1 se plus 330$ Amazon
280$ website
330$ website with dual z rod upgrade
>>
>marlin now has input shaping
klippybros, how do we cope?
>>
>>2549529
I've used it for learning settings and troubleshooting. I have it mostly dialed in. Not terrible at $4 per kg.
>>
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Can I just buy magnet sheets and make my build surface magnetic?
>>
>>2551063
so you want to use the adhesive side on the built plate then print on the magnetic side?
>>
>>2551073
I want to stick this on the underside of my PEI sheey and have the magnets stick to my hotbed
>>
>>2551082
it's going to take longer to heat and if you use adhesive on your PEI you won't be able to bend it. if you use it on your hotbed it should be fine but will still take longer to heat. not sure how much that magnet will break down, but heat is one way to destroy magnetism. it's ghetto and might not last a super long time but technically it should work.
>>
>>2551088
Anon...
have you really never heard of magnetic beds?
they're pretty common, and yes they can take the <100C temperature just fine. Magnets need to go much hotter to get demagnetized.
>>
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>>2551092
True but not all magnets are created equal, and I've had those slap magnets degrade and weld themselves to a hot surface (car in the sun), separating in the middle and destroying the surface.
>>
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Bros, rate my first ASA benchy
>>
how do i make my prints more resiliant?
for example i print a T shaped hook and hand something on it, then the T will break off with certain force.
How do i increase the endurance? i use 10% infill but i read that won't have any effect on it
>>
>>2551930
lay the t down. increase outer walls. add surface features. shear is your enemy, orientation is your first defense. print hotter, salt anneal, heat gun, strategic melt with wood burner.

>>2551900
looks good senpai
>>
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>>2551900
>>2551931
Second time the charm, just added a little bit of brim.
Lighting fucks it up, but came out pretty good for a first print, on par with my pla.
>>
Was thinking of getting an X1 Carbon as my first printer. Thoughts on why this may or maynot be a retarded idea?
>>
>>2551951
that over extrusion is making me vomit
tune in your retraction settings nigger
>>
My ender now deletes microsd cards when i insert them. I also makes my screen fuzzy when i plugin usb. How do i fix this?
>>
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>>2551992
Eh, not THAT bad, photo I took first was just shite.
And yeah I will adjust my shit around, as I said, it was the first ever ASA print I made.
>>
>>2551992
>0 stringing seen on picture
>tune in your retraction settings nigger
What?
>>
>>2551970
get it but pretend it's a single filament bed slinger until you're experienced with slicing and shit.

unexpected results:
1. I thought the support w was watersoluable, it's not it's non-compatible filament (e.g. PLA won't stick to PETG)
2. a bed full of single filament models will take less actual print time than a single color switch
3. it wastes more filament than you print. it fucking eats rolls.
4. apparently you can TPU without the AMS
5. default slicer setting are fucking garbage.
6. set up and actually print a model before coloring, if you move it a mm or repair holes or do anything all the color data is lost.
7. the included rolls are not full kg
8. what looks like a second plate is actually extra plate surface stickers (?) wish they'd just put a 2nd plate so you could start a new print immediately.



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