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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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340 posts, not enough content for one collage edition
Last Thread: >>2543311

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 2023-01-19]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Bambu Labs P1P
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own Voron, Rat Rig, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait), Bambu Lab X1 Carbon
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars 2+, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional parametric CAD programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, TinkerCAD, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do mesh free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
I built a 3 table ikea lack rack for my mks3. Could that POS be causing the ugly layers and sometimes look like the 602 issue? I'm wondering if it could have slight movements that's causing it.
Probably not. Check for loose bolts, make sure there's not a lot of z leadscrew wobble or binding and adjust if necessary. Sometimes messed up extruders can manifest as artifacts that look like z problems so that's worth looking into.
>It just works
>We don't know how our machines work
>We can't fix a simple issue that's so prevalent it has a name

Ender 3 Pro, $100 at Microcenter
Problem solved.
I've worked with 'support' 4 times. I've walked through the assembly manual to verify screws and other postings of the similar issue. I just figured it's one more thing I have not checked or tried.
This is a common anecdote with Prusa printers, and typically ends with "and it's been too long to do a chargeback on my credit card."
I'd say you should try installing some not shit firmware, like plain ol' Marlin.
However, the board Prusa uses is literally over 10 years old, and extremely limited/archaic.
It doesn't have enough Flash and RAM for a modern Marlin install unless you disable most of the useful features.
Still, it might be good enough to let you test, lots of Prusa issues come from the shitty firmware on ancient hardware.
Why don't Prusa users just install a BTT SKR 3? It's like $50 with TMC2209s and is light years ahead of the Rambo.
Is the Ender 3 still king of buy and go printers? I've had an OG CR10 since they came out in like 2017 and it's finally starting to present numerous print errors that I just can't solve. I want to get something to replace it that I just won't have to deal with any of the same issues. I'm mainly wanting ABL and direct drive. That being said options for that in my budget are scarce, so I'm looking at an Ender 3 V2 Neo, and I'm just gonna add direct drive and a second lead screw to it down the line.
Are there any other printers i should look at? I'm really not wanting to go through the tuning process as much as I did with the CR10.
>Is the Ender 3 still king of buy and go printers?
The Ender 3 is ancient, and it's difficult to find them online today. I have an Ender 3 V2, and it's great. You will especially like the software of the Ender 3 V2. I even run custom firmware on mine. It's called JyersUI.
Meant the Ender 3 as the base. I'm aware the V2 Max Neo Omega MOD2 Omicron is the current iteration. Im just really not wanting to fuck with the beginner regiment of getting a printer to work again.
Is there a preferred option between an Ender 3 Pro, 3 V2, 3 Neo if you can get them for the same price? The Neo seems to be another $20 cheaper, I'm wondering why.
Ender 3 Pro is the best because of the mag bed. It's ready for a PEI flex plate out of the box. Screen is the old fashioned 12864 which is superior to the gay color screens that Creality is putting on the newer printers.
The Ender 3 V2 comes with better software and belt tensioners, along with a few other things. It's newer than the Ender 3 Pro.
I forgot to mention, a BL Touch and SKR Mini e3 are must have upgrades.

$200 (Ender 3 Pro) + $40 (SKR Mini) + $40 (BL Touch)
That's still less than a E3 V2 yet far superior.
Is adding all that superior to just getting the V2 Neo that comes with the CR Touch and silent board?
>the old fashioned 12864 which is superior to the gay color screens that Creality is putting on the newer printers
Clearly you have not run a 3 or 3Pro in a dark room. That shit is brighter than the fucking sun.
I had to remove the screen and solder in a 680 ohm resistor in place of the 62 ohm one to make it not blind me.
>That's still less than a E3 V2 yet far superior.
I got a CR Touch for $30, and I really wouldn't be surprised if the control board for the Ender 3 V2 is superior to the SKR Mini.
>That's still less than a E3 V2
I can get them for the same price, so I might as well get the V2 then and add those upgrades.
You're supposed to add a CAT5113 digital pot and hook it to some free GPIO so you can adjust the screen brightness with M256.
Lmao no, the C*eality silent board still has always that awful always on hotend fan, while the SKR Mini has PWM control on all three fans, which makes the printer completely silent when it isn't printing anything. Also the SKR Mini comes equipped with 2209 stepper drivers compared to the 2208 on the Creality. It also has much more effective stepper driver cooling.
>that awful always on hotend fan
I don't see the problem with this. I only have my 3D printer on when I'm planning on printing something. It's also a good feature to have to prevent jams. If the fan stops running when the hotend is still hot, the plastic will melt in the cold part of the hotend, and you'll have to spend some time fixing it.
>a BL Touch and SKR Mini e3 are must have upgrades.
What year is it, gramps?
The Mini e3 is obsolete if you get lucky and get one of the later E3Pros that come with the 32 bit board.
Also a 3D touch from trianglelab is only a few $.

>paying 150$ for an RPi just so I can dim a screen
isn't there an ender 3 pro v2 now?
>SKR Mini has PWM control on all three fans, which makes the printer completely silent when it isn't printing anything
Absolutely pointless. If your printer is on then it should be printing.
>2209 stepper drivers compared to the 2208 on the Creality
Probably the only upside but why throw so much money to get 2209s and not get something that can run 2130s and/or support future upgrades like dual Z?
>much more effective stepper driver cooling
>drivers are integrated just like on the creality board
Lol. Lmao even.
Jesus someone just tell me if the V2 Neo is worth it?
I don't want to fuck with upgrading the mainboard and the noise really doesn't matter. Does the CR Touch work without hassle?
The hotend fan doesn't shut off unless the hotend is at 50 degrees or lower. It may seem like a small QoL improvement but I'll never go back to the annoying 24/7 constant whirr of the hotend fan.

DON'T get the 3D touch. I have two of them and they are both extremely inaccurate. See my probe_accuracy outputs:

Antclabs Bltouch accuracy:
probe accuracy results: maximum 3.037344, minimum 3.033906, range 0.003437, average 3.035312, median 3.035391, standard deviation 0.001120

3D Touch clone accuracy:
probe accuracy results: maximum 2.092500, minimum 2.022500, range 0.070000, average 2.051250, median 2.042500, standard deviation 0.021367

I also tested the CR Touch and it is far, far better than the 3D Touch. Almost the equivalent of the BL Touch. The variance on the 3D touch is so bad it will almost certainly lead to print failures every now and then.
>>paying 150$ for an RPi just so I can dim a screen
What the fuck are you talking about?
Where in that $4 trimpot + wires to your existing board does the Rpi go?

Lol you're retarded and don't know what you're talking about.
>support future upgrades like dual Z
What's wrong with running two motors with a splitter cable?

It's probably fine. But consider a Sovol SV06. Dual-Z, linear rails, PEI bed, level sensor, all-metal direct drive, for $260+shipping. Blows enders out of the water.
The CAT5113 is a very simple and easy to use 1K digital potentiometer.
It can easily be controlled with some free GPIO from your existing control board, making it possible to control it with GCODE command very easily.
It can also be set up for push-button control without hooking it up to the mobo or doing any work in firmware at all.
Of course, at that point, I'd just use a real physical pot and a knob.
>But consider a Sovol SV06
I dunno, sounds like it still may be in the beta phase? I really don't want to fuck with features to get them to work. I did my time tuning, tinkering, and testing on my CR10. This time around I just want my printer to work.
>linear rails
i meant guide rods
>This time around I just want my printer to work.
Ultimaker S3/S5
Zortrax M300 Plus
Raise3D Pro3
Bought mine a month ago on Amazon, don't know what you're talking about with a preorder.
I wouldn't expect anything under 500 dollars to "just work" without tinkering. And even everything after that comes down knowing what you're doing with each material at a given room temperature/humidity/lunar phase/horoscope result.

I don't really know how people deal with bedslingers these days personally.
>Ultimaker S3/S5
>$4k for a mediocre printer.
>when anon was looking at an ender.
Creality printers are frankly really good for the price. Get it working in its stock configuration before you start watching memetubers that manufacture their own problems for views. If you feel like spending 2-3x the money, go bambu p1p/prusa.
Yea I want thr printer to work without unnecessary spending. At this point Enders are 95% as good as Ultimakers, I don't want to spend more than like $300 when you don't have to.
I more or less just don't want to spend the next 6 months adjusting settings by .01mm and printing a million test cubes before I can finally print what I want. I know I'll have to mess with retraction and all the little stuff. I don't want to have to fuck with the auto leveling.
Don't forget the sacrificial goat. A groundhog will do most of the time though.
>Where in that $4 trimpot + wires to your existing board does the Rpi go?
In the part where you mentioned GPIO. Existing board has no GPIO. Most mainboards have no GPIO. The ones that do are expensive and not the kind of stuff you'd use to drive an Ender 3. I don't know what world you live in that mainboard GPIO is common.

>It can easily be controlled with some free GPIO from your existing control board
See what I wrote above to the other retard.
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I have a Sovol SV01 Pro as my first printer, works great with minimal messing about. Auto levelling works well now that I figured it out. Only settings I've really played about with is stuff like infill percentages, speeds, different bed adhesion methods, wall/base thickness.
>But consider a Sovol SV06
This, also OP can you add this to under $500 printers
>I don't really know how people deal with bedslingers these days personally.
We really don't know any better
Ngl the quality on those tiny sections really doesn't look that great.
What did you have to figure out with auto leveling?
Other than the pillars I'd say it's good, nice and clean.

>What did you have to figure out with auto leveling?
My bed is slightly dished, lower in the centre. What I originally did was set the height in the centre first and then go round and level the corners, but as they were then too high I raised the z offset. I figured the auto levelling would then compensate for the centre but it doesn't work like that. I then set the z offset based off the centre and let the auto levelling adjust for the corners and it works fine.
Bowing in the center seems to be common with the ABL printers that use the spring steel removable beds. Do you think the unductive sensor on the SV06 would work with a glass bed?
What's a cost-effective bed-z printer that doesn't use V-rollers?
It has a glass bed with a magnetic sheet stuck to it and then the magnetic PEI surface (not spring steel). I would assume the glass is fairly flat, my guess would be that it's just the thicknesses of the other parts aren't uniform.
I think the SV01 uses a glass bed and a CR Touch, the SV06 has a magnetic build plate and an inductive sensor.
Is the Anycubic Kobra Neo any good?
Most mainboards do have GPIO.
Using a CR-10 Stock Display on a normal Creality 4.2.7 board?
You've got a free pin on the LCD connector already, or 2 if you've eliminated the buzzer/beeper/speaker.
That's in addition to the BLTouch connector, which if you use a probe that doesn't require servo control grants you another free pin.
That's on a stock shit-tier Creality board, free GPIO for you to use.

Everything from MKS and BTT, like literally ALL of their options have tons of free GPIO.
People have been mentioning the BTT SKR E3 Mini V3.0, so let's look at that.
I see 7 free pins, not including the BL-Touch connector, 2 of which will typically be used for fans so call it 5.
5 free GPIO on a bottom-tier drop-in board for Ender users.
A higher end board like the MKS Monster 8 has over a dozen GPIO not in normal usage, over 2 dozen total.
Even Ramps boards 10 years ago had a handful of free pins on Aux connectors for easy usage.

I used free pins on an old MKS Robin to add UART control for the TMC2226s I run on that board, and a few more to add a Rotary Encoder because the stock touchscreen didn't have one.
People constantly use free pins to add accessories like BL-Touch, Neopixel LEDs, WiFi, Bluetooth serial, etc.

>Most mainboards have no GPIO
Fucking retarded comment.
>The Mini e3 is obsolete

How so? Its using the same stm32xx chip like all the other new 32 bit boards. Do you know what you are even talking about?
He definitely doesn't.
I'm wanting something direct drive so it's between the SV06 and the Neptune 3 Pro.
Please advise as I am a child and unable to make decisions without some sort of affirmation.
>CR Touch and it is far, far better than the 3D Touch.
Reason why is because it uses a opto slot sensor which has a .005 reading accuracy.

I had the components to build a poor mans bltouch but used a remix that includes a opto slot that has a schmitt trigger (lm358) on it.

Using it on a glass bed for my ender 3 works well.
There are much better options on the market at this point. Just being 32 bit is no longer a big deal. Even stock Creality has that now, and as I've said before if you get an E3Pro with the 32 bit board there is no reason to "upgrade" to an SKR Mini E3.
Except all the extra free pins and better drivers, but hey you do you.

Depends on the company. kingroon build their board off a MKS robin so its convenient to add ABL, runout sensor, and RGB.

Not all companies are like, maybe they will be.

I just upgraded my ender 3 from 2018 with 32 bit board. My cr10s pro is using 8 bit board, and I am going to throw a SKR pico in it.
>better drivers
The 2209s aren't the big upgrade you make them out to be compared to the 2208s. If it was vs A4988s then I would understand.
A more important thing to look out in terms of drivers is cooling. And the cooling is not much better than what you get with the Creality board since the drivers are integrated.
>all the extra free pins
And what are you going to do with them? If it can support a probe and a runout sensor that's enough, anything else beyond that is just for epeen. This is an Ender 3 we're talking about, not some complex machine like a Jubilee.
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No one is saying to swap out an existing 32 bit board, there is communities that build printers

>rat rig
>annex engineering
Where the hell you guys even buying the SV06? Amazon only has it for $300 and Sovols site says its only available for pre order right now?
Can anyone recommend a laser engraver/cutter? I'm split between buying a chinky 5Wopt/40Welec laser and bolting it on my ender3, or buying a standalone machine. Those Q-switched Nd:YAG lasers look really damn good, but they're a bit too pricy for me, to say nothing of doped fibre-coupled lasers. I have a 0.5Wopt laser diode that has a really shitty focus.
Right, because Stallguard and Sensorless homing and the fact that my printer will stop itself if it crashes into something, yeah that's not a big upgrade.
What am I going to do with extra IO?
Neopixels aren't just for fun, they can be used as actual indicators of printer status, they're fully controllable through GCODE after all.
Hotend temp indicator, bed temp indicator, dynamic lighting to improve CV performance (ie Spaghetti Detective), print time estimate indicators, you can use Neopixels either individually or in strips or clusters for pretty much whatever you want.
How about a better LCD: >>2540447
How about a Bed Distance Sensor: https://github.com/markniu/Bed_Distance_sensor
You can even use it in conjunction with another probe like the BL-Touch.
You can add more thermistors so you can monitor individual driver temps, CPU temp, or stepper motor temps.
Hell you can add a secondary low-powered OLED display so your temps can be shown full-time even when your main color touchscreen's backlight goes to sleep.

Why are you on /diy/ if you're not interested in /diy/?
Go buy an iPhone, buy a chair, sit in your bought chair and use your bought iPhone to order your prints from services that will do all the work for you.
Is there any reason we all default to 20 tooth gt2 pulleys? I use a 30 tooth one on my x cartridge so the belt doesn't contact the extrusions and since I've never seen a printer incorporate them I'm skeptical
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>0.3mm layer height
>Nozzle STILL bumps into print and knocks it off the print-surface
They're common, cheap, and were used heavily in early printers 10-15 years ago, so they've remained in common use.
If you switch to a 30 tooth pulley, the large diameter will give you considerably less resolution along that axis.
If you're on a common i3 style printer, you likely run ~80 steps/mm on the x-axis, and you'll be reducing that considerably to about ~53 steps/mm.
So you'd be reducing your x-axis resolution from ~18800 steps at 12.5microns/step down to ~12500 steps at 18.75microns/step.
So your stepper will be stepping less, but working harder to step when it does, requiring more torque to turn the larger pulley.
Thing is, your stepper has limits, and you can't just give it MORE to get that torque.
To keep your stepper temps in check, you may need to reduce your printing speeds, accelerations, and jerk/junction-deviation.

Generally not recommended, but yes it's totally doable and not nearly as bad of a downgrade as my paragraph might make it sound.
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I've never printed something this long but I had the missus pick out a filament and a model. Typically my prints are 1-3 hours at most (small parts) so we will see if it works.
gl;hf share your results, spaghetti or otherwise.
Bought an SV06, should be here next week. Hope this is worth the trouble over the 2016 CR10 I've had.
It's a good unit, a well thought out printer where your money goes where it belongs.
(Rather than paying for a color touchscreen and half-assed features)
The hotend is fine, nothing special but it's good nonetheless, the extruder is good, the auto bed leveling is "fine" not my preference but it works just fine for Prusa, the flexible build plate, solid albeit not feature rich Mainboard with excellent TMC2209 drivers, it's set up for dual z-axis auto leveling from the factory, and includes belt tensioners.
The whole features list is actually good shit, pretty amazing.
The x-gantry autoleveling is particularly notable, although they sadly do it in pretty much the most ghetto way I could think of, jamming the whole gantry up to the max z height.

It's genuinely an excellent printer, the build quality leaves nothing to be desired when compared to similarly priced printers, and it leaves plenty of flexibility for users who want to really fuck with it.
Of the 3 I was looking at it seems to be my best bet. The problems I've seen it have seem to be easy to fix. Excited to experience a printer newer than the one I got in 2017.
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God, I love TPU. brings a whole new lease of life to 3DP.
Is there a way to optimize movement on a 3D printer? A lot of times if I am printing something, the hotend will just around the build plate before it gets to the right spot to start extruding again. Seems like it wastes a lot of time doing that.
>printing on stock hotend with ptfe fumes.

If you start getting a headache consider its the ptfe

well, depends on the model, but one example would be
>set z seam on sharp corners
>arrange models where sharpest corner is close to each other

in slicer you normally can see the nozzle path for each layer, and can adjust if needed.
What you're describing sounds like "combing" or "avoid perimeters," it's a done to increase quality by navigating in such a way that it's less likely to leave defects/artifacts in the print, at the sacrifice of wasted time spent moving around in funny ways instead of going straight where it's needed.
It's something that can be controlled, adjusted, or disabled entirely in most slicers, and often is disabled in faster "Draft" quality presets.

>The combing settings are located just beneath the retraction settings in Cura’s “Travel” settings category. There are several combing modes available in Cura.
>In PrusaSlicer, you can find "Avoid Crossing Perimeters" in Print Settings->Layers and perimeters->Quality, where it can be adjusted via the "Max Detour Length" parameter, or disabled entirely.
>SuperSlicer, you can find "Avoid Crossing Perimeters" in Print Settings->Layers and perimeters->Quality, where it can be adjusted via the "Max Detour Length" parameter, disabled for the first layer with the "Not on first layer" paramter, or disabled entirely.
>In BambuStudio, "Avoid crossing wall" and the corresponding "Max detour length" parameter are found on the Prepare screen, in the Quality tab, under the Advanced section.
Do any of you guys use scanners? I'm interested primarily in making modifications to things, so that would probably be a massive help with modelling the changes.
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>being this autistic
Photogrammetry is free and can produce very good results for certain use-cases.
You can take photos with "whatever" and stick 'em in Meshroom, that's the typical method I see done a lot.
If you have a smartphone, both Android and iPhones have good options; I highly recommend Polycam.
Certain iPhone and iPad "Pro" models have actual LiDAR sensors, and Polycam can also take advantage of those.
Either way, Polycam is solid.

There are some distinct issues though, most notably scale, you have to scale the resulting model using references in the scan, it will not be scaled accurately.
The quality of your scans depend on the quality of your camera, the lighting conditions, and the complexity and surface texture of your scan target.
Lighting and/or surface texture can make a difference in lots of different 3D scanning techniques, but with photogrammetry they're critical.

It's free to try doing photogrammetry, and if you find it's good enough for your use-case, fuckin' sweet.
If not, you can identify the short-comings you encounter, and make a more informed decision about your other scanning options.
The Creality scanners are honestly great, but the software behind them is shit.
The EinScan's are excellent, with top-notch software, but you pay to play starting around $2,000.
The EinStar is considerably cheaper, but still takes advantage of software derived from the expensive options, at around $1k it's the best bang-for-your-buck commercial scanner in my opinion.
Revopoint's POP 2 is another notable budget option, but I have never had the luck with Revopoint's gear that others have, maybe right for someone else but not for me.
Thank you for the high quality reply. I'll definitely look into Polycam now. I've got a fairly recent android phone with a nice camera that I only use over my old flip when I need maps, so that could be ideal. And the thought of scanning the big statues at the park, unbeknownst to everyone, is kind of funny to me.
>You wouldn't steal a knight.
Electronic mods are scary. How about a nice spool holder instead?
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>trash picked ender3 anon
>print quality improves with the z axis shim mod
how doe?
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Hello lovely ladies. I've got an Ender 3 pro I'm looking to upgrade. Just get the creality dual Z, direct extruder, new glass bed and a BL Touch and should be good? Any better alternatives or must do upgrades?

Thanks xx
I've also considered getting the dual Z axis stepper motor upgrade, but this would result in nozzle collisions being much more devastating. The only time I really ever get nozzle collisions is when I'm autolevelling the bed, and there's a bit of plastic sticking out the nozzle, or when a print is about to start, and the Z axis homing with the CR Touch commences, and there's a bit of plastic sticking out the nozzle.
Isn't CR touch cheaper and better?
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Designed some nice snap-on motor wire protectors for my new quadcopter (available here: https://www.printables.com/model/374476-chimera-7-pro-v2-shoulder-pads). If you have a 3d printer and aren't into drones, I just don't know what to tell you...
Z axis stepper motor mounts are made incorrectly, and have never been fixed.
As a result, shit doesn't actually line up correctly.
Lots of mods and custom mounts and other solutions, ultimately it means an aligned Z-axis leadscrew that moves freely and smoothly with less wobble and less binding.
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I stopped checking the general for 1 week and all the Creality hate has now turned to Prusha hate.
What's to hate? You get what you pay for with a Creality.

Whereas with Prusa you pay for Haribos and Beard Oil and they use the change leftover to slap together a 10 year old printer for you.
>Prusa parts are printed with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height, 2 walls, 6 top layers, 4 bottom, 20% Grid infill.
Disgusting trash.
They're giving out beard oil now? I only got haribos. Ate them while putting together the printer just like the instructions said.
So these industrial diamond nozzles are actually pretty neat so far. They have a weird non-stick quality to them.
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Why not hate both?
Did you buy or print your printed components?
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I bought a blemished set of just the functional components off the Discord for $40, then printed some PLA panel clips and hinges, and set about printing the parts I wanted in the colors I wanted, and rebuilt the whole thing. Not sure I would recommend that route unless you are unemployed like I was, but it's definitely a viable tech tree path.
Pic related is the original incarnation.
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My new milliohm meter. Fully printed, but the internal circuit isn't done yet. Horrible etching job on that, gonna try using lightburn for etch-resist ablation.
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Honestly anon, if you can print PETG, I would consider z belt mod, but depends on if you are wanting to wait a few weeks from aliexpress.

Coming from experience with dual z axis on my cr-10s pro, the moment those motors are turned off or disabled your gantry will sag on one side. There is a mod on cr-10s pro that uses a belt at the top so it always stays in sync. Even if you do the dual z mod, You will have to do another to help keep the gantry the same when the printer is powered off. Trust me I know from experience.

z belt mod I have been running on my printer since June of last year has been phenomenal, belts are still tight, haven't stretched.

As anon said here, >>2545857

CRtouch is better, it uses a opto slot sensor which is much more accurate, I mean for god sakes they sell a 5 pack of plastic needles for the bltouch just because how often they break.


>pic related
shows the probe is made of metal and even if it runs into the plate there is clearance and wont break.
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>2 walls, 6 top layers, 4 bottom, 20% Grid infill
Absolutely disgusting. Gotta double that wall count and infill, or you're just printing cheap hand grenades.
No it all goes to Jo.
>He doesn't braid and jacket his own wires
Get out of here, you fucking Casual, this is /diy/!
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Just be thankful i didn't cut the ends off a usb cable, and make kelvin clips out of pegs. Well kelvin clips out of pegs might actually be ok, pic related is my UPDI programming clip for newer AVRs.
>muh Creality vs Prusa flame wars
both will print out your benchies and funkopops just fine
Prusa has integrated DRM now, so you can't print most 3D scanned Funkopops as they get flagged as copyrighted in PrusaSlicer.
this is bait
it's true. i tried to print a pirated baby yoda and it wouldn't let me do it unless i entered my license key or sent 8$ in bitcoin to the model designer.
Is elegoo's PLA fine? its reasonably cheap on amazon.
Not really, when designing a replacement emblem for my car Prusaslicer threw a warning like "this looks like a logo" still it would let me print no prob
if it's cheap, it's shit.
but if it's expensive, it's not automatically good.

Polymaker is the best filament on amazon ATM.
yeah i just need a cheap shitty filament for prototyping. i've already got nice filament, i just need something good enough for checking to see how shit feels in the hand, fits in place, etc.
elegoo makes machines, i figure they can't be that bad.
Thanks for the sound advice! I'm using a 0.9 degree stepper so Im not so worried about the step loss but I definitely hadn't taken that into account.

While we're on topic I've heard that Chinese pulleys aren't exactly accurate and don't get you decent results, I'm not having much luck finding good ones since the internet is overwhelmingly flooded with cheap ones.

Any good reliable place or reliable brand I should look for?
mine does that, I thought it just pops up to offer to make adjustments more suited for printing logos?
>the moment those motors are turned off or disabled your gantry will sag on one side. There is a mod on cr-10s pro that uses a belt at the top so it always stays in sync. Even if you do the dual z mod, You will have to do another to help keep the gantry the same when the printer is powered off.
not the anon you’re replying to, but I’m just curious the reason?
Combining the newsy access with the old one, both of them having different characteristics will push them slightly out of sync?
I used to work with printers like this years ago, every single start-up I would realign them by hand. this day and age, I guess that’s a pain in the arse
This day and age, controllers with 5 to 8 drivers and tons of free gpio is normal.
I run dual z steppers with separate drivers, Marlin natively supports using my probe to determine the x-gantry tilt and correct it. Previously I used two separate Z-max endstops, but waiting for the whole gantry to make that round trip got old real fast.
I've been asked to print some outside decorative parts for a car. I have an Ender 3 Pro, part just fits inside the printing perimeter.
What kind of material should I use, there will be heat, cold, wet, UV from searing sun, and it will probably be painted. I only have experience with PLA and some PLA derivative materials.
Have geared bowden extruder and stock hotend with the PTFE fix. 0.6mm nozzle.
ASA might be a good choice.
I was thinking the same just wasn't sure. Anything to look out for printing ASA? I literally have no experience outside of PLA.
i've never done it, just know it's used for outdoor shit
ASA. Depending on part geometry you won't get far without a properly heated enclosure.
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>trying to replace extruder bracket to add a filament runout sensor and other upgrades to Ender 3 Pro
>no instructions, but it's straightforward enough
>trying to remove final bolt
>it's not stuck, but it won't back out
>it's holding the entire assembly together
>it still has a firm grip
>i can see the far end of it through the front of the frame
>no matter how much I turn the bolt in either direction, it doesn't fucking move in or out
>pushing it from either direction doesn't work either
How the fuck can it be simultaneously so stripped that it won't move in or out, but not so stripped that I can't pull the fucker out?
What the fuck is this and how do I fix it without destroying the assembly and giving Creality more money for their shitty products?
>not the anon you’re replying to, but I’m just curious the reason?

A number of factors, even using the z-sync belt makes me wonder if I am doing damage to the lead screws, when I do relevel my gantry its a .5mm at best, but over 3-4 prints one gantry is 2mm lower than the other, and I have tried many different things, so once I did the sync belt mod, and trammed the bed I get consistent prints now.
We warned you about buying creality
I like monoprice filament, works good for me.
why did this need to be 3d printed rather than engraved/cut/milled
If I do a reasonably engineered DIY enclosure (paper box and bubblewrap) will it heat itself sufficiently?
Looking at mine it is a bolt through on the bracket and is fixed to the extruder drive motor on the other side. Congrats, you seem to hamfisted the bolt and stripped the stepper motor, most likely when you built it in the first place.
Just because you have the proper tools desn't mean you should be allowed to use them. Next time consider your cheap chinaprinter as a fine instrument and work on it like a surgeon. And learn to use your tools properly!
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Bro, I'm one of the biggest Creality haters here.

Actually, you RETARDED piece of shit, this part came pre-assembled. And upon searching the issue online, guess what I find? DOZENS OF OTHER POSTS ACROSS MULTIPLE SITES ABOUT HOW THIS BOLT BEING STRIPPED.

Turns out it's a known fucking issue. Just another example of Creality being unforgivably stupid. They had to have known that their assembly process was bad for months if not years and they just kept cranking printers out with it because they didn't feel like fixing it.
Stupid fucks.
>Have geared bowden extruder and stock hotend with the PTFE fix. 0.6mm nozzle.
why did you do all these upgrades if you're just going to print PLA?

I think foam core is an overlooked enclosure. You can interference fit a smaller piece to seal and/or use magnets easily.
some people put cardboard boxes over their printers. a big part is preventing drafts.
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Look, you little bitch.
Look at this picture from the assembly instructions showing how the whole assembly came pre-built.
Look at how fucking stupid you are.
And look at how those Chinese fucks didn't even label the screws they used in the assembly, so I don't even fucking know what kind of bolt to go buy to replace the one I'm about to drill out.
Get fucked.
if you can save at least some of the threading on one you can very easily use a thread pitch gauge on it, or even some calipers and the ability to count

you can buy bolts/screws from hardware stores by thread pitch/count easily. I know PartsSource, an auto parts store, often has big bins sorted as such to buy individual bolts, and the one near me even has a threaded plate and a bouquet of bolts on a couple of strings for you to hand-match random shit you pulled out of your car (or other machine)
>How the fuck can it be simultaneously so stripped that it won't move in or out, but not so stripped that I can't pull the fucker out?
it has a positive stop on the other end like computer screws often do.

At least, I assume. Every time I've had what you describe happen, it's been in disassembling a computer or laptop, and there's been some widget on the other end that keeps the screw from falling out that got mangled or jammed.
Anyone used the 0.15mm REVO Nozzles? I Just got one but I need to create a new profile for it because the slicer I use doesnt have any.
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I got it out. What seems to have happened is they didn't align the hole in the frame with the hole on the x-axis mount, so the were creating a scissor effect on the bolt.

The solution was found by accident: I tried angling the force I was applying and noticed a bit more play in the bolt when aligning it with what I would later find out was the scissor effect. By prying the bolt to the side, pressing on the wheel on the bolt, and turning the bolt in hopes that the threading on the far side might catch, the bolt came out normally, albeit with a lot of metal shavings on it.

I just had no way of knowing the holes were so badly misaligned.

I'm not sure if the bolt is even damaged very much. Nor the hole. I'm tempted to remove the other bolt and fix the alignment, perhaps adding a lock nut to the far side, which may require a longer bolt.

I'm glad I didn't have to drill it. I've found nothing but horror stories from people that've been forced to do that with a Creality printer.
That pic is why you don't use child slaves as Quality Inspectors.
yeah. If the part isn't too tall the bed can keep a carboard box enclosure at a decent 40-45C without much of a problem. Just remember to get your bed properly level and your first layer right. If at all possible, preheat(take bed to needed temp and let it sit prior to printing) for about 20 mins prior to printing too.
is that a Vwheel?
Did you even attempt to support/unload the bolt before attempting to remove it?
Yes. Repeatedly. I tried every angle of the eccentric nut, I tried removing the whole x-axis from the frame. The bolt moved with such freedom that I am certain it had no load on it anywhere other than where these two pieces of metal pinched it.
Stock single side pinion to guide roll extruder flattened and mangled filaments on repeated retracts especially softer blends, but the harder ones also had a noticeable squish that would get stuck in the bowden. On a geared extruder with double side hobbed gears multiple retractions are not a problem.
PTFE fix is mandatory on Ender stock hotends, don't know why you are surprised here.. 0.6 nozzle because it prints faster, as accurate with detail as the 0.4 and has better print strength and layer adhesion.
>inb4 printing figures
figurine printing is the lowest scum tier of 3D printing
>he buys preassembled
lol what a retard
....you imbecile. But the deed's done and you've probably fucked your x gantry.
>Bro, I'm one of the biggest Creality haters here.
>Bought one anyway
Go buy a wanhao or other prusia clone
Hey there gentiles and ladymen, I won an eBay auction for a parts ender 3v2, so I started fixing it, and at this point it's 100% other than the fact that both fans on the x-carriage are dead, and the carriage plastic parts are also fucked. Time to upgrade. What ricer fan shroud is kid tested and /diy/ approved. Hero me? Sansara(sic?), hydra?, Kludging a damn afterburner on? I have a few assorted axial and blower 24v fans. Bltouch mandatory.
>fucked plastic parts
sounds like someone tried using it in a too hot heated enclosure, lmao
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Like there's a choice? Retard.

Prove it, fuckhead. Seems to have reassembled just fine. I didn't alter anything significant about the geometry of it and everything is re-seated to the prior torques. What could possibly be fucked with it now? Go ahead. Enlighten me in the ways of shitty chinese printers, retard.

You absolute fucking piece of shit.
I bought a Creality BEFORE I knew they were shit, and over months of fixing this piece of garbage I have become a Creality hater. How fucking hard is it to imagine that, retard?
my printer isn't wiping it's nozzle on the side of the plate anymore before printing, what Cura setting controls this?
>I bought a Creality BEFORE I knew they were shit, and over months of fixing this piece of garbage I have become a Creality hater. How fucking hard is it to imagine that, retard?
It's not, but you know the solution so why continue to suffer with some chink roller printer that is garbage instead of just buying a printer that actually works? Why spend more and more money trying to polish a turd?
Just use z lift and set it to twice your layer height
A) Because I'm still doing my homework and strongly suspect that my next machine will be a Voron or scratch-built.
B) I know I can get this piece of shit working well eventually. It only has so many original manufacturer's parts that can fail before I've replaced the whole fucking thing.

One way or another, I'll be free of Creality. Tinkering with it now just moves that timeline up and improves my knowledge for my next printer.
Anycubic's filament is hot garbage.
Machine makers mostly dont make their filament, they outsource it and brand it.
You're banking on their QA department at that point.
>I know I can get this piece of shit working well eventually
Cut your losses.
Am I gonna get banned if I ask about solidworks piracy here?
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It turned out pretty good I think. 0.6mm nozzle and 0.32mm layer height. I didn't tune retraction that's why its so stringy. I'm kind of nervous to check if it actually moves or not, but I guess I'm gonna have to if I want to print something else.
Do you have your z properly calibrated/gantry level? What temperature are you printing, is your print curling?
How bad is your adhesion that the nozzle doesn't just melt through?
You do understand how V wheels, eccentrics, and threads work, right?
You should've at least watched a video on how to disassemble the x gantry rather than hamfisting it like a retard.
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I did, troll. Nice attempt at shitposting, though. If you can articulate something that may have gone wrong, feel free to prove me wrong, vermin. Go ahead. Tell me what's broke. I'll go take a photo of it working fine to rub your nose in it. Come on, dipshit. Speak, boy, speak!
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>Crealiturds whinge and seeth in every fucking thread that their brand new printer can't make a straight line, prints like ass, needs replacement parts costing more than the entire setup just to print half serviceable parts
>Meanwhile my chinkshit slider-based printer (Prusia i3 clone) has printed for at least 7 years without needing anything but a new nozzle once.
Imagine buying the cheapest printer you can find and being surprised when it gives you nothing but problems, instead of spending an extra 50-100 dollars and having a printer actually build correctly.
There is only one right answer to this:
If it comes from Misumi, it better be fuckin' perfect.
It's not about creality shit or chinkshit, it is about retards expecting a cheap chink hobby printer to work out of the box without checking various things.
When I got mine I knew what I was getting into and did my homework so when it arrived I took my sweet time to assemble it and check for defects, outright replace turd screws with proper european ones and check and adjust for squareness. My V-roller prints perfectly, straight lines, no overextrusion blobs, no underextrusion and minimal stringing for years. I even managed to tune out vibrations except zebras but then I installed the silent motherboard so that is fixed as well.
I have no idea how hamfisted retard you have to be to end up with those mangled turds in the Creality hate posts.
It is the same as every other chinkshit hobby products, you having to do work on the printer is included in the design. Fuck, I even had a lot less problems then a generic Prúsa owner because I take attention to detail. Also my printer has metal structural parts not shitty underfed printed parts.
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Do I have enough fillets?
Chamfer instead of fillet for everything facing the bed.
because it's not just a 2d structure, it's this: >>2545900

idk but really nice modelling anon. what does it do? and will you be able to print that overhang?
What filament has the absolute best layer adhesion? I'm thinking it's prolly nylon or pc but im not sure how well the SV06 will do with nylon so I'm looking at carbon fiber pc.
Layer adhesion?
PCTG is often claimed to be isotropic or near isotropic, which would mean it's equally strong along any axis, the layer adhesion being "perfect."
This is a lie, but it's about as close as we get right now.
Printed correctly, the layer adhesion is phenomenal.
Need something rigid so TPU is out, how easy is PCTG to print?
It's a clone of a Toughbuilt Cliptech clip so I don't have to spend ~11 bucks buying the cheapest pouch they sell and drill out the rivets to covert other things to use their hubs.


I'm printing it on its side so the rounds for the hinge and the notch for the locking feature are in the best orientation.
Prints like PETG with a little more warpage.
Tune your flow as best you can, and don't even bother if you haven't already calibrated your e-steps.
Only takes the tiniest bit of over extrusion to really start fucking things up, carrying strings and burnt material all over the place, much like really cheap translucent PETG does.
The temps that achieve the best layer adhesion will also increase the chances of warp, you'll definitely get better results in an enclosure, but in general an enclosure isn't usually necessary for PCTG.
I highly recommend you play with temperature range, the difference in layer adhesion will be huge (not surprising), but the clarity of the print will also be severely affected; if you actually cloud the material while it's printing, you're degrading it, and need to lower your temp or speed up your print.

It's an easy one, harder than PLA+, ever so slightly harder than PETG, heaps easier than Nylon or Polycarbonate.

If you're printing a gun, don't, PCTG is a BAD choice for the same reason as PETG, the failure characteristics make for unpredictable sharp chunks of shrapnel as opposed to the "rip and tear" you get with 3D870 PLA+.
A failure mode that resembles a hand grenade is not a safe failure mode for something you hold in your hand.
I have an Makerselect Plus that's still kicking and this sounds interesting, suppose it's one way to solve the potential for thermal runaway problems I keep hearing about
Not a gun but a folding stock for one, printing the 1913 piece in PLA+ the layer separated when it was screwed down to the rail.
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>no matter how much hardware I buy, the next thing I try to print will require something I don't fucking have
Who the FUCK has M3x50 hex head bolts just fucking lying around?
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Oh hell yes you absolutely could do this.
There are a lot of options out there, but it's not hard to drop a new board into a 13860 or an 15711.

You very likely have a Wanhao Melzi 5.1 board in there.
There will probably be two boards inside, the mainboard and a smaller interface board near the back.
Some of your stock connectors are just screw terminals, some are JST-XH/XHP, and there may be something funky for heater connections or the extruder stepper motor.
I'd highly recommend getting a JST-XH crimp kit, it'll make things way easier when you inevitably ruin a connector that they glued to the board being all Chinese and whatnot. They're the most common connector you'll find in 3D printer controllers, they're everywhere.
In a similar vein, get a ferrule kit, the vast majority of screw-terminals you find in printers are NOT safe to insert bare or tinned wires into, it's absolutely not what they're intended for, and it leads to burnt connectors and house fires. Get a ferrule kit.

The SKR Mini E3 2.0 is about $40 on Amazon, the 3.0 is about $45.
It's popular, inexpensive, easy to get your hands on, definitely a good option.
You can use your existing LCD, or you can upgrade to a BTT TFT35 screen.
There are other options of course >>2540447

There are a shitload of control boards out there but this would definitely be a straightforward swap that gets you a lot without breaking the bank.
Unless you actually have a plan for additional drivers and accessories, there's not much incentive to go with something more extreme.
this is good shit anon, appreciated. The printer's been good to me and I only just recently overhauled it so I don't see the need to replace it with something newer, the problems I've had were all basically my own fault until the extruder gear finally started to wear out
My 13860 has been going strong for over 7 years now, still my favorite printer for appearances alone.
Someone comes into my shop they assume the steel on steel beasty without all the bright plastic must be the "good" one.
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>Who the FUCK has M3x50 hex head bolts just fucking lying around?
Within arms reach.
Though the fact that they're mostly there and that they're not in the main bins implies I've only ever used a few.
Now that I think about it, starting off with a set like this (m3 with 10 assorteds lengths or so, same for m5's and m2's.) then restocking in larger quantities froma cheap supplier the ones that you run out of.
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Those are M3 socket head cap screws, which are not M3 bolts.
Always keep a massive assortment of M3, M4, and M5 socket head cap screws and button head socket cap screws around.
Who the fuck uses M3 bolts?
I did miss that part.
My guess is germans/chinks that can just pop down to the hardware store and pick up whatever ancilliary they need.
Can't yuo just use a #4 screw in place?
Any particular reason it's a bolt? What are you making?
If you live in Murica, try Ace hardware, they have a section of bolts from m1 or m1.6 to m8? but I know m3 is there for sure.
I bought a set of M2-M5, x3-30 or some shit, with washers and nuts, and thought that'd be sufficient. But not. Some motherfucker designs a useful print that takes M3x50 with the hex head so it seats into the print.

Satan, that's who.

I picked some up at the local hardware store.
It's just wild to me that after like 20 attempts to "stock up" on a variety of fasteners I always find designs that call for one I don't have.

I'm close to just going to Fastenal and ordering a box of every kind of fastener they sell. Last time I visited one they had a little warehouse just lined with little 1000-piece boxes of every type of fastener.
He's not going to find a hex head bolt that small. In the Midwest Menards is always a good bet too, but this is going to have to be an online purchase unless he's willing and able to revise the design.
If i only need one, I'd be grabbing a m3x60, a Dremel, some nuts, and red locktite/spotwelder
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Honestly anon I don't see why you cant use a button head or socket head, is the thread pitch different?
>pic related

Is what I have bought, and still finding shit I need to buy as well.
Honestly try aliexpress, my post here >>2546476
is what I have bought in advance and in bulk, so far none of them have broken on me. But

>socket head
>button head
>recently countersunk.
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Duh since 1991 the US and Ukraine has had a diplomatic relation.
>Who the fuck uses M3 bolts?
>Satan, that's who.

Seriously, nobody needs < M6 bolts, everything M5 and smaller should be socket, flat, or phillips, and I fucking hate phillips.

Every night it's the same dream.
America switches entirely to the metric system, Axis powers are only allowed to use torx fasteners, and phillips heads are outlawed globally.
Woodscrews are only available in square drive, citizens receive an allowance of lag bolts every spring, and every auto manufacturer who ever made a vehicle with a mix of metric and imperial fasteners has been shut down and their assets dispersed.
Every Wednesday is ice cream day, with blackjack, and hookers, and no phillips heads.
>The year is 2043.
>Drug cartels have all but switched over to illegally smuggling Philips head fasteners to enthusiasts in the US.
>The market is for some odd reason, quite profitable.
>Gas stations sell ice picks with a suspicious cross on the tip, even though they are meant to be used only as ice picks and nothing else.
>President Fatass dedicates entire new government taskforce to maintaining the fastener prohibition.
>The Screw Head Identification Taskforce allocates 100% of their funds to building a moat between the US and Mexico connecting the Pacific Ocean to the Rio Grande; President Fatass calls it a great success and organizes the new Flotilla of Fastener Enforcement to patrol the new Phillips Force Field.
>The S.H.I.T. accidentally loses track of several millions of fasteners during operation Furious Crossthread.
>It is estimated most of the fasteners remain in circulation and cannot be traced.
>They continue to show up at multiple crime scenes across the US.
I can't stop laughing at the idea of 50year old me sticking a #6x3/4 sheetmetal screw into a stripper's g-string.
I want to flick loose hardware at strippers.
Magnetic beads will become very popular in slut fashion.
>Hire hooker.
>Get her to sort the bucket of loose fasteners in the garage.
If you want to professionally engineer, you gotta pay the big-dick Solidworks toll. Everyone who paid will not hesitate to throw you under the bus to secure our (very expensive) competitive advantage, so maybe consider the student version, or going with the F360 hobby license.
PETG printed directly onto clean PEI. You will never get it off that build plate, I guarantee it.
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Cut out the middle man and just print PEI on PEI.
What the fuck were they thinking?
a rather incestuous diplomatic relation at that
Which mental illness(es) do you have and what delicious script does your doc give you
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My little PCBs arrived for my nigger-rigged TFT screen yaaay.
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Finally my fat-ass chink printer can have a fat-ass chink bootscreen.
Pepper'd for prude-board.
Hey I am the anon that asked for the files las thread, glad to see it worked out, I am have too much shit going on so I'll get around to it at some point, and she looks like this rice cake girl I have saved on my pc.
>nozzles look horrible and scratched the fuck out from printing regular PLA

>tfw you checked your brass nozzle cleaning brush
>it's magnetic
What in the actual fuck is wrong with Chinese people?
What the fuck are you printing that you NEED hex head bolts as small as M3? >>2546451 has the right idea (and I have that exact same assortment set) and should be plenty good for 3D printed stuff.
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Day one of trying to use Prusaslicer to produce laser g-code. My workflow currently consists of:
>export PCB design as svg with small drill marks
>open svg with inkscape
>convert svg into png
>open png in krita
>turn transparent background white
>save png
>open png in inkscape
>trace png to vector
>save as svg
>import svg in tinkercad
>export as stl
>open stl in prusaslicer
The conversion to png and back to svg is important, as it turns all the overlapping shapes (not good for stl or g-code creation) into non-overlapping composite outlines.
Those are indeed the same high quality rice cakes.
>Due_Return_719 / nnnnekochan

It's getting legitimately difficult to find brass brushes that are brass.
Auto parts store, plated steel. Harbor Fright, plated steel. The good gas station, plated steel.
Seriously fucking annoying.
I've been using a nylon brush with no issues, actually did the same for my automated wiper/purge bucket.
Obviously that won't go over well for high-temp materials, but it's given me no trouble so far.
wait it needs to be inverted
Is there a real reason you want to use PrusaSlicer for this, or is this just because you can?
Have you tried Laribo? It's made specifically for people who strap a laser to their Prusas. (Laser Haribo)
All it really needs is a complete outline around every trace, then the rest of the copper outside of those is just RF shielding (if you don't forget to ground it).
>Is there a real reason you want to use PrusaSlicer for this
Two reasons:
>I want the multiple shells of outline followed by a raster infill inside of those outlines
>I want something that's easy to get running on my laser platform (an ender 3 with a laser bolted to its hot-end)
If lightburn can do both then I'd probably buy it. Especially so if it can de-fuck the overlapping svg objects right out of KiCAD without the funky conversion. I can probably automate the conversion though, I think Inkscape can be scripted.

It can't do the rastering last I checked. The guy had to do the rastering using some sort of scribble fill in Illustrator.
Might be possible to do the multiple outlines and subsequent rastering in Inkscape,maybe I could even un-fuck the overlapping outlines there too. It's also possible to export g-code from inkscape, but last I tried the scale was way off, so there's still a lot more work to be done.

Also I'm on an Ender, chose PrusaSlicer for no particular reason. That software might be able to output G-code for an Ender, doubt there's much difference considering there are generic G-code generators out there, and all the start and end G-codes will be different anyhow.

Wouldn't work for solder masking, it's also bad for HV clearances, and doesn't allow for drawing on the board itself.
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You might consider Kiri:Moto. Totally free, it's usable online without installation, but you can download it if you want to use it offline.
>Kiri:Moto is a browser-based 3D slicer, gcode and CNC toolpath generator for FDM and SLA printers, Laser cutters, and CNC routers.
It's perfect for DIY shit like this, it's what used to run both a laser and a rotary tool on my old Monoprice Maker Select.
You can customize the gcode as needed, Header/Footer/LaserOn/LaserOff are the main macros in "Laser" mode.
It should be set up correctly by default for your purpose, assuming you set up your laser in Marlin.
Only requires one free gpio on a control board to add a laser and support for M107/M106, I just plug it in when I need it.

Even if not, it's versatile as hell and you'd still be able to use it, well worth checking out if you're not familiar with it already.
>assuming you set up your laser in Marlin.
I'm just using the fan on/off G-code.

I'll give Kiri:Moto a go though, sounds neat.
Never mind it runs like shit when I import these files.
Rasterizing with it is fun if a little weird, it imports SVGs, PNGs, and JPGs, and extrudes them into 3D models.
If they're actual images, they'll become heightmaps, like a lithophane.
If you "slice" a 3D model in laser mode, it splits it into layers based on your settings, and produces cut-outs of the layers that you can then assemble, not what you want for images.
However, you can go to CNC mode, enable the Laser Output setting in CNC mode, and delete the Dwell and Toolchange macros.
At the bottom of the screen you'll see a big plus sign +
Click it, choose "laser on," and the "laser on" button appears. If you click that, you get a little menu where you can customize the gcode for Enabling the laser, turning on the laser, and turning off the laser.
You can also turn on Adaptive and Flatten modes.
If you do all that, with Adaptive and Flatten on, it now operates at a fixed Z-height (your focal height) and changes laser power based on the Z-height of the model, allowing you to laser full-blown raster graphics if you want!

There's a lot of little shit in Kiri:Moto, a lot under the surface, so it can take a lot of dicking around and jewtube videos to figure things out, but it'll do damn near anything you want it to if you know how to tickle it.
could have sworn saw someone else in these threads having (and finding a solution to) an issue with "thermal runaway" but now cannot find it in the archives.
does anyone have any experience/probable reasons.
currently theorizing its because have a "spider" oversized all metal extruder squeezed into the stock Ender 3 Pro fan shroud and the fan might be too close, causing it to be unable to come to temperature, but doesn't that sound like the opposite problem?
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Oof, sorry to hear it.
Thermal runaway can be lots of things.
If you've just installed a new hotend, or done ANYTHING ELSE to the hotend, you should do a PID auto-tune.
If it's not coming up to temperature, that's the first and by far the most likely culprit.
Don't make me kick your ass again, Godrick.
Why is that dinosaur in a sexy pose?
Ok yeah Inkscape actually can almost certainly do everything I need
>path intersection + union for turning overlapping shapes into one shape
>dynamic offset for creating concentric shells
>hatch-fill on smallest shell
>output g-code via extension
Sure it would be a lot of work to do manually, but once I've got it figured out I can automate it via python (a language I'm familiar with) to make it real simple to use in the future.
I took apart my titan aero today for a clean and I found one of the bearings to be almost kill. I had a spare on hand and changed it but now I'm fresh out so I have to buy some.
How good are hybrid ceramic bearings? Would they last longer than conventional steel bearings in this application?
is this the same as z-offset?
Hybrid ceramic bearings have silicon nitride balls.
This allows the borne side to be electrically isolated from the bearing side.
The smooth surface finish and high hardness of these balls also means they roll more easily with less friction, enabling them to be more efficient, and generate less heat.
They "should" last longer in "most" applications so long as they're used within their specifications, and they "should" be "less" sensitive to heat than traditional bearings; "should" and "most" is the best you're gonna get.

Cheap Chinese ones are like all cheap Chinese bearings, unlubricated and often either counterfeit or fake; start opening up cheap Ali ceramic bearings and I'd bet 1 in 5 isn't a ceramic bearing at all.
For an extruder, I don't feel it's worth the expense, but that's just my preference.
If the price is comparable to the equivalent "normal" bearing, then it's probably c-binned or fake trash, and there's no reason to think a shitty hybrid ceramic will outlast a good high-quality traditional bearing.
Nope, z-offset is a constant.
Z-Lift, Z-Hop, Raise on Retract, it goes by many names but every modern slicer can do it.
>Cura: Travel -> Z Hop When Retracted
>PrusaSlicer: Printer Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Retraction ->Lift Z
It's an option that makes the printer lift the nozzle by a given distance before traveling, lifting the nozzle up and away from the print before doing a travel move.

The upside is you don't run into your own prints.
The downside, it typically increases your stringing.
More refined retraction options like wipe-on-retract can help combat the increased stringing.
Just very recently there has been talk of people implementing diagonal lift moves, or even parabolic movements between points, as it's the straight-up move of Z-Hop that most contributes to the added stringing.
>just starting resin printing
>Both peechee and shitubox want you to pay a fucking subscription
Is there no half decent free resin slicer?
Dear friend, this is magnetic brass color as described in the description. Please be happy
please attach video of the problem
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>Install new hardened steel nozzle
>Print 25mm cal cube
>Dimensional problems disappear
>Turns out polycarbonate printed at 15mm/s doesn't shrink at all and I've just been struggling with extra thick lines on an interior pocket

I think I'm going to buy a few more hardened steel nozzles, then print a cube every spool change just to double check that my lines aren't mysteriously growing.
>brass nozzle cleaning brush
you wot?
Oy vey
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Had a weird thing happen this morning on my Ender 3.
Checked on job; at some point in the AM (9 hours into a 12 hour print) it threw the glass bedplate onto the floor. Clips were next to machine; no signs of other printing issues up to that point. It's like the head crashed into the glass but hard enough to unclip it from the bed.
Anyone seen this happen before? How do I prevent in future?
Probably doesn't matter but was a bunch of vertically arranged parts.
question 1:
when configuring marlin if i want a setting to use the default pin (header) value from its PINS file, do i just comment it out or what? ie down at the extruder cooling fans section if i want e0 to use the default pin, do i just comment out the #define line for e0 auto fan? because setting it to the same pin as in PINS throws an error that you cant define that pin (to that or any other fan position for that matter), not giving it an option also throws an error, and i would expect that -1 would just turn it off altogether when isnt exactly what i want.

question 2:
i have an ender 3 with skr2 and tft35. normally you have the e0 fan on the e1 heater output, the part cooler on one of the controllable headers, then whatever else after that (i also have a blow on another cnc header to cool the drivers when printing). i want to move the e0 fan to one of the 3 cnc headers on the board (pb5,6,7) and it works and all 3 are controllable in marlin mode on the tft35, but in touch mode only f0 and cti work (they do the e0 and driver fan) but cta does not and it is supposed to be tied to the part fan. how do i fix this? in the tft config file i have the appropriate settings activated like controller fan support and i have the fan count set to 3 (because im using all 3 controllable headers) but it still does not activate the parts fan in touch mode.
Is there anything better quality than bigtreetech in the market?
My SKR mini v2 died with some 3 months of light use, now I think my V3 (6 months maybe) is starting to fail since my BLTouch is pretty erratic (it often fails to deploy, even though the self-test succeeds every time).
god's punishment for you being a deviant coomer bjd fag.

[spoiler]model sause for research?[/spoiler]
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> printing BJD
Search Polaris BJD on thingiverse. In addition to that model there are several faces and parts that work on same model. I print, daughter does faceups.
I've collected enough different parts (and rescaled/reworked others) that I could probably create a few dozen variants of just that design. Used to make 1/3 scale, finished and gave a few away, now mostly do 1/6th scale stuff since it's just smaller and faster. 1/3 scale takes a week to print.
I assume you're looking at Configuration_adv.h

Your part cooling fan MUST be plugged into FAN0 on your SKR2.
If you have two part-cooling fans on separate headers, you must specify it in Configuration_adv.h by uncommenting and setting this line:
>//#define REDUNDANT_PART_COOLING_FAN 2 // Index of the fan to sync with FAN 0.

Marlin is by default set up to use the pins defined in the corresponding pins file, so if you want defaults then you don't change anything.
It's already using the default pins set in the pins header, which you can verify yourself.
Check your pins file, you'll see FAN_PIN, FAN1_PIN, and FAN2_PIN have already been assigned, corresponding to FAN0, FAN1, and FAN2 respectively on your SKR2.

To use them, add 'em to Configuration_adv.h where appropriate.

If your hotend/extruder fan is plugged into FAN1, then find "Extruder cooling fans" in Configuration_adv.h and update this line:
>#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN FAN1_PIN ; Extruder fan E0 is set to FAN1_PIN, which is the FAN1 connector on the board.
Be sure to check the other options just beneath it; a controlled extruder fan won't turn on until the hotend gets above the value set by EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE, which is 50C by default.

Be sure to also find the fans section under Extra Features in Configuration.h.
You'll need to uncomment this line and set it accordingly:
>//#define NUM_M106_FANS 1 ; If I were you, I'd set it to 3 and leave it. Even if you're not using the 3rd header yet, it's done and ready to use if you want it later.

Whenever possible, avoid modifying your pins header files; you can almost universally reassign pins as needed in your Configuration files.
This makes updating Marlin in the future much, much easier.

Good luck, have fun, etc.
how do I reduce stringing? I'm trying to print a little piggy bank for coins and the inside looks like a spider is in there currently.
Oh I left out a fun one.
You can also, if you want, use the USE_CONTROLLER_FAN option in Configuration_adv.h
>//#define CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN -1
You could, for example, set CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN to FAN2_PIN.
Then you hook up a fan to FAN2 on your board, and set it up to cool the board itself.
Whenever any driver is enabled, it'll turn on that fan to help keep the board/drivers cool, but it'll remain off when it's not needed.
It can even be paired with a thermistor or onboard temp sensor if you're feeling frisky.
Dry filament, temperature tuning, retraction tuning.
If you haven't done that kind of tuning before and don't know where to start:
It'll hold your hand all the way through calibrating the fuck outta yo polymer poop chute.
is there a decent 1/3 male face? my daughter got a proudoll for xmas and she's creeped by the face. I was thinking I could print a better head and maybe salvage things.
fuck, I hate waiting for prints and then compromising on fun prints by running them smaller. I guess I really should adventure in tinkering for speed. and probably buy a second printer
Looking for a new printer, budget is around $300-$400 maybe. I'm mainly wanting direct drive, and auto bed leveling, but all metal hotends and dual z axis is a plus. From what I'm finding around online my options are the Sovol SV06, the Artillery Genius Pro, the Sovol SV05, and some iteration of the Anycubic Cobra.
In my research the SV06 seems the most promising but the sub and Facebook group for the thing are almost nothing but people having problems with the dual z not being synchronized. The Artillery printer is older than the rest and has the same dual z system as the SV06. The Kobra printers all have really mixed reviews, and the SV05 is an entirely different type of printer. Not sure if CoreXY is worth venturing into these days on a budget when the P1P exists.
Curious what the lit of you think on the issue.
>problems with the dual z not being synchronized.
are they stupid? most people are really fucking stupid. or maybe they're the most vocal. but you can't go wrong saving for the p1p
I'd honestly just save a bit more money and get the P1P, it's a new generation of bang for your buck over the previous generation. Just buy once, instead of accumulating half-assed printers like spinsters accumulate cats.
My printer is doing some decent work right now but it always lays a blob as it starts to print, and it no longer wipes it's nozzle on the side -- why?
it's clearly because that brand and that model are shit so they shit a little when printing. it's a well know issue with them.
>it no longer wipes it's nozzle on the side
That's a setting in your slicer called a "purge line".
Next time use magnetic plate like normal people
What's the deal with everyone wanting the SV06 over the SV01 Pro? For an extra $40 you get a nice touch screen, a touch probe instead of inductive, more build volume, higher temps, a filament runout sensor. The only thing that could be considered better on the 06 rods instead of v wheels but I doubt that's really going to matter.
Touch screen interfaces are a pain in the ass if you want to run something other than the manufacturers firmware. Build volume is really to each his own. I've a CR10 S1 and hardly ever use the full plate, yet less the full height. You are mistaken with the temps, the SV06 has an all metal hotend.
>Touch screen interfaces are a pain in the ass if you want to run something other than the manufacturers firmware
I guess, but how many people in that price range will do that? What's the advantage really? Tapping the screen compared to twisting a knob is better for actually using the machine, going through all the settings and selecting options.
>Build volume is really to each his own
I'd rather have it and not need it.
>You are mistaken with the temps, the SV06 has an all metal hotend.
Is the SV01 not all metal as well? I couldn't see it listed, but they're also not going to say if it isn't. I did indeed mix up the temps switching back and forth between the specs. The SV01 does have 10 degrees more on the bed temp but the SV06 does go over 260 up to 300
>I guess, but how many people in that price range will do that? What's the advantage really? Tapping the screen compared to twisting a knob is better for actually using the machine, going through all the settings and selecting options.
I think this down to new vs old owners. I personally have been messing with printers since A8s were shipped made of the kindling it needed to burn your house down, I like the knob and the added functionality that the firmwares that use them have, mainly marlin. People buying their first printer I'm 2023 definitely would prefer the touch screen.
I also don't want another printer that uses v rails and wheels for some reason so there's that.
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What could be causing these blobs on my PETG prints? I've never done PETG before, this is my first attempted print with it. I tried increasing retraction length and lowering retraction speed but it didn't change much.
My PLA prints are pretty much perfect, if it makes any difference.
thanks yeah i figured it out. all i did was change the pins around to a configuration where it didnt bitch about it when compiling (was able to set part fan to pb7, so set e0 and driver fan to 5 and 6) and change the fans around. its not exactly how i wanted it and the tft still cant control all 3 but ill just have to set my ocd aside and live with it because fuck the aggravation. everything works automatically as it should, good enough for me.
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why is the outside so good but the infill so bad? should I give a fuck?
I've solved this in the past by increasing the lime width of the infill to 0.5mm but cura took that option out at some point so now yoi have to fuck with the infill flow. Doesn't matter unless the wall quality depends on the infill or if you need strength.
Maybe you guys can help me with something. I just got some linear rails but I want to replace the bearings. I cleaned and relubricated them. One works really well but the other is kind of shitty and is harder to move. It's not super hard but the good cart, it will slide down the rail under its own weight but the other cart doesn't slide under its own weight at all. I tried the shitty cart on the 2nd rail and it still moves poorly. I read online it takes some time to wear in cheap rails...
So if I want to replace the bearings in both carts with ceramic bearings, would it be better to wait to put the rails on my printer or is it safe to put them on now and use them and then once the bearings come in, replace those? It's gonna take over a week for the bearings to arrive. My thought is that the harder bearings will help wear the rails in better than the chrome steel that is in them right now.
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Ok, someone point to a PRISTINE fucking guide on firmware because I'm fucking done with this chink garbage.

Someone just fucking point me at a non-shit site that explains simply how the fuck this stupid shit works.

I don't want any stupid fucking tangents.
I don't want any paragraphs of fluff.
I don't want branching fucking paths for 43524356432 different hardware setups I don't fucking have.

I just want Step 1, Step 2, Step 3, etc.

Just a single fucking guide that is usable by someone that hasn't fucked with firmware before.

Just ONE fucking guide that doesn't expect you to already know 99% of the shit the guide is supposed to be teaching you.

Just ONE SINGLE GUIDE that explains how to compile your own firmware if you've never done it before and don't know the nuances of it yet.

Marlin 1.9.1: set up your build environment (the project is built around VS code on Windows, sorry), walk through the settings in configuration.h and modify / uncomment the #define statements according to what you have.
Alright, 3.0. I think this is the one. After a fuckton of revisions in 1.0, and fast fuckup 2.0 (previous post) and most of an all nighter and most of the day, I think this is the one.

M3 Hardware, 4 threaded inserts (the two forks that are very visible) and 3 M3 nuts (1 for the hinge, 2 for the thinner back bit) and a pair of torsion springs for the clip to work. Also split it from 2 parts into 4 for better printing. Fingers crossed.
What filament?
What temperature?
What retraction setting?
What printer?
What mods?
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>have no clue what half the shit does
>the comments don't explain shit
>half the guides tell you to enable various different settings, while other guides tell you not to
This is truly the shittiest hobby on the planet. There is no excuse for the absolute fucking retards making the configs not to properly comment them, and for the fucking morons making guides not to explain shit instead of just telling you to change shit blindly. Especially when they reveal at the end that they're using a fucking 4.2.2 board FOR THE GUIDE LABELED "CUSTOM FIRMWARE FOR ENDER 3 PRO 4.2.7 BOARD".
If you don't understand something in configuration.h, search the official marlin docs to find out what it's supposed to do.
And sliced. Cura is saying 7 hours and 20 minutes but my printer usually takes ~20% longer.

But I finalized the middle fork design and started printing that, so I only have the 3 smaller parts to print.
Polypropylene is pretty good. CNC Kitchen does better technical 3d printing material evaluations than anybody else I know of.

How the fuck do I determine if I need X, Y, and Z setting enabled IF I DON'T KNOW WHAT THE SETTING DOES OR IF MY BOARD CAN HANDLE IT?

That's what I've been trying, but I need some document that tells me what the 4.2.7 board can do. I have no fucking clue what it supports because Creality doesn't fucking tell you.

And I'm assuming BL Touch applies to CR Touch as well?
Running an ender 3 pro with a sprite / cr touch on an 8-bit silent board. BL touch and CR touch are interchangeable in software, but they do have different mounts and offsets.
Thanks for confirming. I figured that was the case. I'm half-assing my way through it all and figure it'll either work or it won't.

Current headache is this shit:

>Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable one of these options to restore the prior leveling state or to always enable leveling immediately after G28.
What the fuck does this mean? My understanding is that the routine probes the bed and stores it and then when you print your printer subtly alters the first few layers to compensate for uneven beds.
Does "disable bed leveling" mean it doesn't do that? Or doesn't store that? Or doesn't probe the bed? What the fuck?

I checked this shit: https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html
And it could be used to teach a masterclass on shitty code explanations because it's purely descriptive. It doesn't explain HOW or WHY anything does anything. Just what it does. I have no fucking clue what settings to pick because these subhumans can't write documentation for anyone other than themselves. They should be sent back to high school.
That's pretty sick that it's an incense burner, but whats the deal with thingiverse memes? Every single file has a Rock Johnson and Buddha variant and I just don't get why
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There's this one, which I haven't tried printing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4360029
> proudoll
Haven't seen these prior but look like plastic joint dolls. A true BJDs can be completely disassembled and restrung... not sure if you can replace the head on the Proudoll.
> creeped by the face
Which is the other thing. Face ups (painting the doll face) is a completely different skillset from modelling and printing doll, and uses a complete other set of materials. It's complex enough I'm not even going to attempt to describe it, just watch some youtube videos on BJD face ups and you'll get an idea.
You'll also need eyes, doll putty (which is just sticky tack) and a wig that fits the model. You can suede neck pocket with hot glue or moleskin.
Point is, getting a good face up is a skill in itself and not a particularly easy one to master.
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Retarded humor bro
because Reddit.
Currently fucking PISSED at the stupid fucking mongoloid fuckwits that developed the platform.io bullshit.
None of the platform listings fucking work. The stupid fucking auto-build Marlin plugin doesn't work. And I can't find any motherfucking source as to whether mega2560 or mega1280 corresponds at all to my fucking board.

There is not only no fucking documentation on this anywhere, but if you google it you get endless stories of people trying to use STM32F103RET6_creality for their environment without realizing it got changed to STM32F103RE_creality without any notice, making every guide before last year worthless. Now I can't even get STM32F103RE_creality to work so I don't know where the fuck to go from here other than trial-and-erroring bullshit.

And to think some of the retards itt defend this shit.
Literally should have bought a Prusa.
This shit is so fucking stupid.
What the fuck is this goddamn bullshit?
>Error: Build environment 'STM32F103RC_creality' is incompatible with BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB. Use one of these: mega2560, mega1280

I follow every fucking step and input multiple listed environments and keep getting this stupid fucking error.
>That's what I've been trying, but I need some document that tells me what the 4.2.7 board can do. I have no fucking clue what it supports because Creality doesn't fucking tell you.
just use the official chinkshit firmware since changing the firmware is obviously beyond your capabilities
It's all fucked! It does not work! It's legendary for not fucking working! Every fucking youtuber that ever fucks with the board complains about how it doesn't fucking work! The only firmware the chink fucks offer that supports the 4.2.7 board with CRTouch and filament sensor also activates the fucking buzzer pin so the buzzer goes off non-stop, which is a bug they've had for 2 fucking years but are too stupid to fix.

Now, either tell me how to fix this easy little error or GO BACK TO SUCKING SHIT OUT OF CREALITY'S RANCID ASSHOLE, YOU INBRED FUCKSTAIN.

Come on, dipshit. It's one itty bitty error, right? Surely someone as brilliant as you knows exactly how to fix this and get it to compile, right? I'm waiting. Go ahead and enlighten me.
Not that dude but you need to start by taking a chill pill. Premade firmware is shit and you really should build your own. It won't be easy at first and you might find you need to use your head while doing it.
You need to fuck right off.
I am trying to build my fucking own and I'm getting the stupidest fucking error and NO RESOURCES even fucking mention it.
What the fuck even is "BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB"? It's not in any of the main fucking files I'm editing, so why the fuck am I getting an error about it?
>What the fuck even is "BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB"?
You mean from >>2547558?
You're trying to flash a firmware for an STM32 board onto a RAMPS board, of course you're going to get errors.
The fix is to use the correct build environment for your board. The error message gives you 2 options, to narrow it down you need to take a look at the chip on your mainboard.
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Parts fan speed: 5%
Does increasing parts fan speed help or hurt warping?
I did that.
The chip says STM32F103RET6 on it.
Nowhere on my board does it say "RAMPS". When I go to the other config files and verify the environment for the 4.2.7 board I find STM32F103RET6 is what's expected.
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what do you think about making a positive 'reverse mold' for silicone? This is just a messy example I threw together rather than an object that would make for a decent mold

On paper pouring into it should create a perfect 2 part mold with no messy seam and no need to use clay or mold release
unfortunately, when I try to make one using booleans the geometry/normals irreparably fucked up and no stl repair tool can make it workable
Share your Configuration, Configuration_adv, and platformio.ini, and I will fix all of it.
I've unused 1.1.5, 4.2.2, and 4.2.7 boards sitting next to me, I've got cheap scotch, let's do this.
The typical replication method of pouring silicone around the object you want and cutting the mold open with a sharp knife will yield a better seal on the mold than that. In the traditional method the interface between the mold halves will be exactly right, while pouring two halves separately will always introduce errors.
My current suspicion is boards.h does not include any creality boards in 2.1.2. I think the compiler may be defaulting to ramps_1.4 because it doesn't recognize the creality board.
Alright, I may have found the problem: The cunts added a config.ini to 2.1.2 just 10 days ago that takes precedence over every other file. So if you don't edit the motherboard in that from ramps 1.4, it'll just keep defaulting to ramps 1.4. It'll ignore every declaration of any other board.

Here's hoping.
>tell me how to fix this easy little error
no, fuck you retard. fix it yourself. its literally not that hard. you must be mentally deficient if you are struggling with this. go watch teachingtech's video if you need your handheld that much. sorry that the video is likely beyond your attention span.
Where did you find such an old version of Marlin?

Updated, moved your settings, compiled no problemo.
Go through and configure the ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE section in Configuration_adv.h or disable #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR in Configuration.h, your choice.
This is on a fresh bugfix-2.1.x by the way, I should have specified.
You should enable Input Shaping too and push that bitch to its limit.
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It should've been 2.1.1 at the oldest. I don't have any Marlin files on my machine from before last month.
I updated to 2.1.2 and everything compiled fine after I edited that config.ini file and went and enabled the advanced pause feature.
Printer went through initial calibration ok, but won't descend during auto-homing. Just flips out the sensor twice then hangs. Also won't accept negative inputs for z-axis motion, so you can't tell it to descend manually.
Might leave that for tomorrow.

Says it's deleted, but I'll give input shaping a try. Thanks, anon.
>Says it's deleted
I guess someone else wanted to see it too.
Not that there's anything special there, it's probably similar to what you've got, sounds like you're on the right track now.
Voron guys, how heavy is the maintenance and how easy is it?
What difference does marlin vs klipper make?
Try lower temperature. Maybe filament wet. But first things first, temperature control and try print faster/slower.
You'll see it in detailed prints or high-speed printing if you have a hot end that can melt that fast and a printer that can move that fast.
It's like upgrading from a Celeron to a Threadripper
If you build it right, without fucking anything up, you can go thousands of hours without maintenance. After building one though, "maintenance" will be so easy for you that you might as well not worry about it at all when you actually do need to do some.
>And I can't find any motherfucking source as to whether mega2560 or mega1280 corresponds at all to my fucking board.
Maybe just read the name on the actual chip?
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And printed. Supports failed so there were some chunks and strings and the hinge came out a bit fucked, and the hole for the hinge is a bit tight so the lock doesn't spring closed like it should. Made the latch too long so even if it did spring, it can't clip on like it's supposed to. That's probably also why I split the hinge on the right.

Also this is just the base bit, the 4 socket head screws would be counter sunk flush into another piece, an adapter, that I'm currently designing so I can attach things to the clip.
I ended up disassembling both bearing blocks again and comparing them under my shitty electric microscope. From what I can tell, it looks like one of the retaining wires is too big or something or maybe the track in the rail is just a tiny bit too small because I think the side is rubbing. I installed the rails and bearings and I'm not sure the printer knows that one of the blocks is fucked up.
I used Cura and made a single layer square that covers the entire build plate and am basically running the bed back and forth hundreds of times at F10000. I'm not sure if it will help or hurt. I'm waiting on the company I bought them from to get back to me. I hope they just send me a new block and/or rail.
Looks pretty nice. How tough is resin for that kind of application though?
Are there any especially good control boards to go for? My MKS SBASE is shitting the bed and all recent MKS products seem to be garbage, looking a maybe BTT SKR 1.4. Everything seems to support UART and all the various meme equipment and everything has fairly powerful chips, so I don't see much of a reason to buy a more expensive board. Printer is a big corexy.
why would i choose something like PETG over PLA?
PETG is overall more resistant, to chemicals, heat, UV. PLA starts to melt at just 40-50C. PETG is also more flexible, that can be a plus or a minus depending on application.
Acted like a fucking idiot and ruined an overnight print of a second spool holder that ran out of PLA. My printer alerted me, but I then caused a clog like a dumbass. SIGH

Got my print of Thing to come out with only minor blobbing on the inside of the fingers, and a hint clogging at a few points that only a PLA-peeper would notice. I like it.
Is the bambulabs shit as nuts as i think it is or is it not actually that impressive?
How did you "cause a clog"?
Filament ran out, forgot to extrude test like the printer so smartly prompted me to do. So it's not like I "caused" a clog actually, more like I failed to mitigate/check for a clog before proceeding. I didn't even have to stick a pin in the nozzle, just cut the filament and reinserted with more pressure. Ho hum
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The front of this benchy looks like it hit an iceberg.
Probably cooling.
Too much or too little?
Too little. Too much cooling would be something like the maximum viable filament throughput dropping too low. The extrusion width to layer height ratio being too low can also cause this, like if you have extrusion width 0.5, your layer height should be 0.25 at most, maybe less if you want to print steep overhangs.
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Resin Benchy from the last thread(center of the collage) guy here. I think i figured out expose time. Everything is sharp, supports connected and layers less pronounced.
I print .28 layer heights on a .4 nozzle all the time.
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What concern me however is that the test prints are bend. They were good on print bed so I guess problem is resin shrink, right?
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Ender 3 v2 neo, got it yesterday. What does this warning mean? Voltage is set to 115V, is something wrong with the nozzle?
Pretty sure that's the leveling warning.
Thanks anon. I did a reset and thought it was because of the z-offset. Didn't realize that the level would be reset too.

Might be nice if they put wording on it..
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It didn't say, fucknugget.

We're gucci.
Just had to disable #define z_min_probe_uses_z_endstop_pin.
Now the only hiccup is one of my z-screws is creaking, but I'm hoping some lithium grease puts an end to that. Then it's calibration town.
Neptune 3 Pro, SV06, or Artillery Genius Pro?
thanks. the stock face up on the prouddoll is creepy af, but upscale boys bjd are too expensive. mainly I don't want to try a wipe and redo without a backup. printing the head and I can fuck around with airbrush and mini paints and see if it goes well without ruining anything. They eyes and everything will come from the current proudoll. I guess I need to figure out a matching flesh tone in ASA and do some fit work.
>for a decent mold
you don't know how molds work, do you? just buy a resin printer, even you can probably not fuck that up at least.
are you reinventing the clipboard or what?
I was surprised the carbon threw a clog error 94% of a print and when I checked the spool was bottomed out and the last bit strung tight from the spool. I was so fucking lucky my other white was an exact match. God damn I burned through that fast.
dumb question do abs and asa adhere to one another?
What does this mean? Stringing is least at 190f but retraction doesn’t seem to matter as long as it’s 2mm or higher.
What is the best Prusa orange PETG available in USA? I don’t want to pay $35/kg for Prusament +international shipping from Chechnya
NGMI bitch
Thanks for reminding me this place is an irrelevant shithole.

you know the drill boys
Comfy as fuck. I wish I could smoke at my printer.
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It's FDM, I just have a nice gray filament and thin layers.

see >>2546303
Not a clipboard, but a tool pouch clip.

This is the first iteration of a belt adapter. Rather than threading your belt through a loop on something like your multitool pouch, you stick this in the belt loop and now you can quick de/attach from a Cliptech Hub.
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I tried changing my Kobra from a stock e3d v6 0.4mm nozzle to a chinese clone cht 0.6 nozzle.
I have some parts that dont need a lot of detail but could use some speed.
The printhead oozes a lot, and the print seems under extruded. The walls are visibly separated on the new part.
See pic. Pink is new part, orange is pre cht clone.

I updated my extruder settings in cura to 0.6mm. No other change was made.

I am going to start fiddling with the flow %. Going up in increments of 5% and seeing what happens from there.
I will try to adjust initial temperatures to be lower so I can reign in the oozing.

What other adjustments would you guys suggest?
(Besides going back to stock 0.4)
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Another pic from the top.
It took me about a whole minute staring at the photo before I figured out that you didn't "hotglue" your print.
I don't know, but you have multiple forgotten tubes of superglue around the house, don't you?

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