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File: BeFunky-collage (1).jpg (1.36 MB, 3264x3264)
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Someone Else Make These Fucking Collages Edition
Last Thread: >>2496074

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own Voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://printables.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional parametric CAD programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, TinkerCAD, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do mesh free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
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finally got around to making a deej, works p well
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As I was saying, >>2501972
>>
Has anyone built a voron and can tell me what I need to do to make one.
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>>2501966
How long did the enclosure take to print?
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>>2501975
If you can follow instructions, you just need the right tools, and you need to learn how to make good crimps. Invest in quality crimp tools like the Engineer PA-09.
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>>2501975
Get some screwdriver style 2mm, 2.5mm, and 3mm Allen drivers, don't cuck yourself with the L shaped ones as you will be using them a lot. A power driver like a WowStick is nice, but understand that you will be killing that cheap Chinese piece of shit before the build is done.
Practice a bit with heat set inserts before hand, and file the tip of your iron down if it hits cervix.
Get an old mirror from the thrift store to help align your frame while you're assembling it, the more autistically straight you can get, the better, and you will never have another opportunity to get it perfect unless you tear absolutely everything off of your 40hr build printer. Building a frame crooked is like drinking during pregnancy, just don't do it!
>>
>>2501976
not very long, like 6 hours total for both halves
>>
Lets talk carbon fiber filaments, and not nylon or abs base carbon fiber. Every one seems to review nylon base CF.

Curious more about PLA-CF, though would it be more brittle/less impact resistant? Also saw PLA+-CF and the base has more impact resistance than PLA and the CF should provide rigidity. Then also also saw PETG-CF too.
>>
>>2501991
PLA just sucks in general for anything that is going to see more heat than a sunny spring day, plus the CF seems to hurt the layer adhesion a bit. Probably the ideal application for CF-PLA would be a 3d printed mandolin, or some high end resonating speaker enclosures, since it just brings the already high stiffness up a bit.
CF-PETG I have not tried, but I think it would be a great material since the layer adhesion and general toughness is so good with PETG, and the glass transition temp is high enough that you wouldn't need to second guess it in everyday use.
My personal favorite is CF-ASA, because I just know how to print well with ABS, and I think it's a great material. The CF brings the stiffness on par with regular PLA imo, which means it can be used as a substitute for designs that call for PLA specifically in things with flex, or escapement springs as an example.
CF-Nylon is a bit of a fucking cunt to print, it likes to warp, your extrusion multiplier will most likely be way off what you normally print with, and I often have to use the "Horizontal Expansion" option in Cura with a small negative number in order to have a mating part that will fit right. Also has pretty shitty layer adhesion compared to how strong it is against the layer lines, so you have to be aware of that when you are designing your part and aligning it on the build plate. For certain shapes though, there is just nothing like it in terms of strength and durability.
Another one I want to try next is CF-PC; seems like a nice high temp replacement for CF-PLA, but I have no idea about how hard it is to print or any quirks that is has.
I don't see much reason to go with glass filled filament when CF filaments exist, unless you just HAVE to have a color other than black.
>>
FIRST FOR TURN OFF POWER LOSS RECOVERY FOR BETTER PRINTS AND BETTER SPEED.
>FIRST FOR TURN OFF POWER LOSS RECOVERY FOR BETTER PRINTS AND BETTER SPEED.
FIRST FOR TURN OFF POWER LOSS RECOVERY FOR BETTER PRINTS AND BETTER SPEED.
>FIRST FOR TURN OFF POWER LOSS RECOVERY FOR BETTER PRINTS AND BETTER SPEED.
>>
updated my printers firmwares with custom builds feels good
>>
Okay so I’ve installed a Volcano copper plated block and a CHT 0.6mm volcano nozzle in my ender 3 pro, and installed new thermistor, same resistance but I think it reads higher than stock one and I heard you should compile new firmware for that thermistor. It’s working great so far and I’ll improve it a bit more but I, looking into what firmware to install… board is 32 bit 4.2.2, is there any downside to using klipper?

I’ve only read the cliff notes and says faster printing speed and other features etc, so I could more take advantage of my hotend setup.
>>
>>2502025
You do know Klipper needs a pi or external computer to run it right? It's not like Marlin which is self contained.
>>
>>2501975
Yes, I just finished building my voron trident 300 cubed kit from LDO
What you will need to build one I mentioned below tool wise. Its still nice to have some of the L shaped hex keys. You need thread locker, and if this stuff gets on the printed parts it will eat the printed parts up and compromise it.

I also heard that "Vibra tite vc-3" is threadlocker that is safe around 3d printed parts.

You need to either print your own parts or buy them. If you want to print your own parts its relatively easy, put a cardboard box over your printer and move your power supply outside of the cardboard box, you also want to make your hotend an all metal because of PtFe TuBe GiVeS oFf HaRmFuL cHeMiCaLs

>>2501982
>A power driver like a WowStick is nice, but understand that you will be killing that cheap Chinese piece of shit before the build is done.


Not anon you respond to, I would like to add buying a skil electric screw driver really helps as well, and sometimes I still finish it with a L shaped allen just in case.

>https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Cordless-Screwdriver-Circuit-Technology/dp/B07C4916LS

or

>https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-Rechargeable-4V-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B07F23B9FH

and I recommend buying these

>https://www.amazon.com/Amartisan-Wrench-Metric-Magnetic-Storage/dp/B07VH7ZQGC
>>
My dad is a model builder, cars planes boats the whole range. I've shown him prints from my ender 3 and he's complained about sanding and finishing PLA, he wants to try resin printing. What are my best options in the 2-300 range, what're the good options up to max $500 and what does that extra cash get me? As a machinist I'm digging the FDM printing side so far and I'm wondering if resin printing is going to be just as much of a learning curve as FDM was.
>>
>>2502128
Afaik it's pretty simple save the toxic fumes and having to wash with isopropyl and cure with uv light the mechanics and lenses are self contained and afaik not to be fucked with
>>
>>2502025
As the other anon said you need an external PC to do the processing that sends the commands to your rxisting microcontroller. That means you either pay out the ass for a Pi/clone or pay out the ass for a used PC
>>
>>2502130
Thanks, and yeah that's a lot of what I've heard as well and considering he's got what amounts to a shitty fume hood you'd trust enough to handle no2 in I think that's not an issue in his mind. I'm a bit worried how I translate this shit to him so he can understand and do his own shit as well, I've got a machinist background so tramming in a FDM printer and understanding it was easy for me but this is a whole goddamn skillset itself. Would love for other anons to chime in with their experiences.
>>
So I've had an OG CR10 since 2016 or so, it's served me well, but I recently saw some prints someone was doing on the latest and greatest Ender 3 and the surface finish is definitely better than what I can do. Are there any definitive upgrades I can make to my CR10 to put it back up to today's standard?
>>
>>2502115
Is the LDO kit worth the extra like $600 over the Formbot kit?
>>
>>2502128
based fellow machinist printer. micrometerwaffen represent

also, general question for the thread: what are the major differences in mechanical properties between ABS and Nylon? i know both are a bitch to print in their own unique ways, and i've been using PETG as kind of a stopgap between junky PLA+ and those two other big boy plastics.
>>
>>2502159
Gulf 2.4 anon here, I went with the Formbot kit with Moons motors and pre-crimped wiring harness, and the build went fine. The only thing I had to buy separately was a few crimp connectors for the heater bed thermal fuse.
With the LDO kit you can specify frame color and spec out some things like a pancake motor for the stealthburner, etc., But other than that the difference seems pretty small for the price. You can also contact Formbot directly have them pull out certain parts from a kit if there is a different part you want to supply yourself.
>>
>>2502159
my voron v0.1 was from a formbot kit, I am happy with 90% of the kit. initially I didn't swap anything out, but after using it for 9 months, I am thinking of swapping out the bed and heat pad for edge to edge heatpad, and buying a new set of panels.

so with formbot there is nothing wrong per se, but you may run into panels being either barely long enough or almost too long. pay attention to the wiring lengths, its not a huge deal for me I have extra wirings and connectors anyways, and it was only one wire so its not a huge deal.

>>2502169
Like anon mentioned here, you can specify frame color you want, they have documentation when assembling their kits, you follow the official one but in the docs they mention what pages you do differently. They provide list of required/optional printed parts that go with their kits.
>>
>>2502180
oh, and I forgot I am happy that I bought the LDO kit, but I went with LDO because the kit they have is to make the voron trident 300x300x300, and normally the z axis is 250 no matter if you go 250x250, 300x300, 350x350 on the bed size.
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>>2502161
ABS is more brittle I think. Nylon shrinks a lot and gets it's stronk from that but is more prone to warping from insufficient heat. Nylon is less fun than PETG, ABS is easier than PLA if your printer can handle it.
>>
>>2502025
>looking into what firmware to install… board is 32 bit 4.2.2
Look at the latest Marlin firmware. UI goes in first, then the board. Good luck.
>>
Anons, what 3d printers do you guys use? I'm looking at some of the ones listed in OP's post to find a good starter one, but I'm having trouble picking one. For reference, I need it to print at least 10x10x10, and my price limit is $400.
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>buy an anycubic
>One Hung Lo on the assembly line wired the hotend fan to the part cooler header and the part cooler header to the hotend fan header
>constantly cooling ABS at full blast
>not cooling heatbrake
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>>2502218
10 inches?
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>>2502224
Yeah.
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>>2502218
bit the bullet a ended up just getting a Prusa MK3S+ as my first printer. assembly wasnt bad took me almost an entire day but it was a pretty fun build.
already made my money back plus more selling tabletop accessories.
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>>2502226
>made back prusa money
holy fuck. i need to start doing tabletop stuff
>>
>accidentally posted in the old thread
Guys I cant print on my Ender 5 bc the screw on the part that feeds the filament is too tight, but nothing has changed? I havent adjusted it and now it just goes brpbrpbrpbrpbrp when I try to print and nothing comes out. What the fuck?
>>
>>2502226
Who's buying ttg stuff from an fdm? Whenever I get an order for ttg stuff they always want resin prints.
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>>2502242
I also print ttg on fdm. It's not that bad if you have perfectly calibrated printer and small nozzle. Resin still outright wins at this tho. It's just more messy.
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>>2502226
Congratulations anon, you just lost the production game!
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>>2502184
>normally the z axis is 250 no matter if you go 250x250, 300x300
>motor integrated leadscrew
Holy shit is the voron team mentally retarded? Not only are they almost all universally dogshit you run into problems like this. I thought we left this shit behind in the reprap days
>>
>>2502218
First time ? Go with an Ender 3 s1 / pro, has a lot of stuff that ender 3s usually sucked at.
>>
>>2501975
If you do go with a Formbot 2.4, order an ABS enclosure bottom panel separately somewhere. You can just replace it after the stock one warps from heat, but an ABS one is cheap and it's much easier to build it in the first time rather than pulling all your electronics out later to replace it after after the fact.
>>
>>2502115
>https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Cordless-Screwdriver-Circuit-Technology/dp/B07C4916LS

I bought a Worx electric screwdriver and it's fan-fucking-tastic and worth the $40.
Taking things apart is a fucking breeze. Nice torque limit settings, USB C rechargeable, long lasting battery, fantastic shape, fantastic weight distribution, great box it comes in.
It's 150% worth $40.

https://www.amazon.com/Worx-WX240L-3-Speed-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B08FDBVDD8
>>
I live in a rural-ish area. Engineering college, but still a town of 20k people, 10k when college is out for summer.

So my population is primarily boomers who fish and hunt. Someone has asked me about making lures for fishing. What type of other stuff would work?
I also can do electronics stuff so I can make things that do stuff. I just have no idea what they need.
I need to go hunting and fishing so I can see for myself.
>>
>>2502267
How about a commemorative "Never Forget" Twin Towers/Osama bin Laden plaque in various neon colors? Or a "These Colors Don't Run" US/Israeli flag collage?
>>
>>2502286
Have you ever been to a rural town?
The vast majority aren't raging political shitters.
Unironically they just want to grill for God's sake.
>>
>>2502289
PLA bbq spatula then.
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>>2502291
That just feels really trinkety. A silicone spatula would be better than anything I could print and much cheaper.
I don't really do novelties.
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>>2502251
Whats wrong integrated lead screw in the motor? Just curious.


I am not trying to defend voron or anything, their idea is to have printers that can be sourced with off the shelf items, even if integrated lead screw is shitty, it doesn't take up space, and still works fine, especially controlling all 3 independently.

I do however want to build a annex engineer K3, with its cross gantry, the belt path, and how they control the lead screws are interesting. Annex also has a different mindset, they are putting functionality over looks, which I am sure voron is trying to go for looks, and possibly maximizing print volume without being bulky.

>voron
>ratrig
>annex

and some more communities, all have their differences.
>>
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>>2502297
Oh, I'll do a real suggestion this time. How about custom tool caddies for the cheap Chinese tools they have strewn all over their workshop? They aren't that hard to design or print, and they really make a nice quality of life improvement to tool organization. Best part is you don't have to worry about print farms and injection molders undercutting you, because they are all unique to the user.
>>
>>2502242
>Who's buying ttg stuff from an fdm?
i mainly sold objects that populate sceneries. so stuff like trees, rock formations, houses.
and then modular dungeon walls and such.
yeah, didnt do actual miniatures because those are better with resin prints.
i sold most of my stuff locally, mainly through facebook groups.
also, what sold alot were status rings you put around your minatures.
>>
>>2502242
forgot to add. i also did some custom board game inserts for this local hobby shop. one of those places where you can rent out board games.
did some basic inserts but with the company logo on each insert.
they paid me like $20 for your average smaller box board game upwards to $100 for the bigger box ones.
>>
>>2502317
now that's a banger of an idea, there's a harbor freight nearby that sees plenty of business
>>
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Domo arrigato!
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Can any anons provide input on 3D resin printers for ttg business?
I'm going to try to break into the market with the skills I got from architectural model building. And all my left over material.
I can 3D model environments but I'm learning characters in blender now, using hero forge in the mean time. Any advice?
Was going to start with pic related, 160 bucks.
>>
>>2502155
Maybe just modern Marlin and a modern control board, supposedly the accelerations are a lot smoother and reduce ringing artifacts. Arachne improves fine details, so a modern slicer too. I'm just now trying it for myself for the first time, on Prusa slicer 2.5. I've got a BTT Skr mini in my cnc, but my printer has a ramps1.4 and old marlin. Considering another Skr mini for my printer.
>>
>>2502146
Any computer that can install python and has a USB port to connect to a printer for serial access can run octoprint, hell you can probably run it on a junk cellphone or 20$ Chromebook
>>
>>2502228
Boomers are into scale trains and shit like that build some cheap tanks bridges and stupid shit like that they will keep you printing till rapture niggers pay like 1k for rivet counter trains for fuck sake
>>
>>2502232
Is the Bowden tube or nozzle clogged up? Those would be my first checks and also force push it passed the probably worn chunk of filament you've been grinding
>>
>>2502310
The main thing is that you're going to get sub-sub-par lead screws and that motor is a waste, you can't change it. There are various other problems like shitty alignment of the shaft that could be mitigated by a separate coupling and the fact that they're a specialty good that are harder to get in exact lengths (which is why the voron trident seems to be stuck at 250mm) and are mostly served by low grade manufacturers trying to make a quick buck. It's really not worth saving ~1.2" and a few bucks for couplings.
>>
>>2502394
If you are trying to mass produce, than the only thing affecting your print time is Z height, so get a machine with a big build plate to take advantage of that little hack by simultaneously printing more miniatures at once. Or just get a small one to learn on while you start out, and then save up for a really nice production machine later.
I'm an FDM guy though, so take that with a grain of salt.
>>
>>2502394
Also, never share your files unless you are ok with third worlders ignoring the "non-commercial" part of the license.
>>
Fucking boomers and their miniatures with details their eyes probably can't even fucking see bruh
>>
>>2502405
Yeah thats understandable, normally I wouldn't buy integrated lead screw, with it being this kit I didn't have a choice, and even so, its been working fine, doesn't mean im convinced to use them. I also had concerns of not being able to change the lead screw and be forced to pay for a new motor with lead screw.
>>
>>2502394
Grab a Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. Same price with far better build quality and overall parts used.
>>
>>2502409
With time yes, I'll start with this anons suggestion
>>2502471
And learn it in my spare time
then upgrade to a larger one, if that goes well I'll have two large printers and one small ready to fill orders on the day to day
No worries I appreciate FDM lots, I've used it for architectural modeling plenty when I was in school
>>2502413
We can kinda see em kek
well I'll post occasional progress at least.
>>
>>2502512
Good luck, m8.
>>
I canceled my order for my Prusa and ordered a new extruder motor for my printer that's wonky.
Why can't I admit defeat and just buy a new printer instead of fixing my 7 year old one
>>
>>2502413
>can't sit still long enough to see details
Zoom zoom
>>
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Why the fuck do people use ABS again? I see no benefit over PLA or PETG to justify the fact that's a prissy bitch that needs a climate-controlled enclosure and bed glue just to not shit itself.
>>
>>2502720
Fuck ABS, if I want to print "outdoor" stuff I use ASA.
>>
>>2502720
Boomer mentality, one of the first common materials available for filament. It sucks.
>>
>>2502720
PLA and PETG are dogshit for going fast. Flow rate doesn't scale well and they're harder to cool which also limits your print speeds. Not to mention in PETG's case it strings like cheese and sticks incredibly easily to nozzles if it makes contact.
>>
>>2502720
three words: acetone smoothing
>>
>>2502720
>I can't print ABS therefore its shit, and if you disagree you're shit too.

K.
>>
Is there any way to get printable stl models from dxf drawings?
>>
>>2502819
of course, just extrude the dxf.
(=search for "cad extrude 2d shape")
there are multiple ways:
eg. f360, similar in any other cad soft:
https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/imported-dxf-wont-extrude-in-fusion/td-p/7262703
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji64aYVEK7c

or... do you mean to create an actual 3d model from a top/side/front view stored in a dxf?
>>
>>2502826
I forgot to mention that i currently don't have access to actual CAD softwares other than maybe tinkercad or, if it even counts, blender
>>
>>2502835
you have always access to FreeCAD
>>
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Hello anons, can anyone tell me what the fuck I'm doing wrong? I've already calibrated the E-steps, the stepper motors and turned the acceleration way down
If it can help, I printed this on an Artillery Genius Pro, sliced with Cura using the standard 2mm profile, just with the print speed turned down to 40mm/s. All parts are standard.
>>
>>2502835
OpenSCAD can import .dxf
>import (file = "herp.dxf", layer = "derp");
>>
>>2502404
>Is the Bowden tube or nozzle clogged up? Those would be my first checks and also force push it passed the probably worn chunk of filament you've been grinding
How do I check this? Should I have one of those nozzle cleaning kits with the spares?
>>
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Hello anons.I'm in the market for a Core XY printer. I've had an original Ender 3 for about 4 years and i've upgraded it some(BL touch, dual blowers mount, new motherboard) Originally i ran into TwoTrees SP-5 as a good value candidate, however a few things come out as upgrades I'd need to make: Panels to make it enclosed, high temp hotend and direct drive extruder.
Next I found RunningBear Reborn 2 which was a bit more expensive but had all of those things plus better kinematics? and really wanted to buy it however it appears they've ran out out EU stock and adding on 160dollars to the cost makes it a bad deal?
Can you recommend a similar printer in the same category? Should I buy the SP-5 and upgrade it or should I wait for the Reborn 2 to get EU stock again?
>>
>>2502893
Try to determine the base price of the cheaper printer PLUS all the upgrades you intend to make. See if that's a better deal, also, make sure that the improvements one model has over another are important for your use case personally and that you dont just have a case of wanting the best of the best for no reason
>>
>>2502720
>Price
>Speed
>Acetone smoothing
Pick your poison.
For me it's mostly price, an ABS roll is 15-25% cheaper than PLA or PETG and there's more material on the roll too.
A nice bonus is that ABS gives zero fucks about moisture so I don't have to care about where I store it.
>>
>>2502897
>>2502893
Yeah I forgot to mention that I'd like to print higher temp materials (such as nylon and PC) and ABS without much fussing about. I'd say 560USD incl. delivery is about the top of my budget. I'd even consider that expensive if it wasn't for the 10mm belts + just pretty much all the upgrades i'd want to make already on the Reborn 2.
>>
>>2502720
>I can't figure it out!
>You're the one that's wrong!

>>2502805
Spoken like a true acetone enjoyator.
>>
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>>2502861
heat up the nozzle and push filament though if nothing comes out theres a clog *somewhere* sometimes heat creaps up from the heat block into the heat break where is supposed to stay cool and siezes up which you could heat her up for a bit and manually push the filament till it melts and slides through or take the nozzle off and push the bowden deep into the heatblock till frees the clog shit nigger i dunno its your printer you should know these things pic related is a bowden that buts against the nozzle (it is not "all metal"
>>
>>2502893
>>2502902

Build a Voron: you just werk on it. You're going to eventually, so you might as well do it now instead of blowing your budget on mid range printers. Or at least a Bambu X1 if you are afraid to do wiring yourself.
>>
>>2502933
Buying a Bambu X1 is basically getting it for free when you compare it to a Voron.
You're still in $1200 for parts on a Voron, and then you have to put a literal workweek into building, wiring, and troubleshooting it.
>>
>>2502893
Did you read the reviews? Not very bright. It looks available everywhere on my screen.
>>
>>2502901
I was just about to try to oven dry a spool I left in my garage naked for half a year, thanks anon, you've given me confidence to just use it.
>>
>>2502848
your thermistor might be going out
>>
>>2502934
Yes, but think of the shame you would feel. You had a chance to build from scratch in a nominally White county, and you let sweatshop kids do it for you. You're smarter than a sweatshop kid, aren't you?
>>
>>2502961
using 90% of things that are manufactured and shipped from chinkland... ok youre so much better
>>
>>2503022
>>
>>2502961
>You're smarter than a sweatshop kid, aren't you?
Yes that's why they're building it for me
>>
Got some cheap 5015s recently and decided to upgrade my Ender 3's hotend to a hero me.
Only just found out the creator's paywalled the documentation for installing and I don't feel like paying €3.50 for instructions. Anyone have the PDF for the Gen 7?
>>
>>2503121
Here you go: https://vorondesign.com/voron_stealthburner there are adaptors on all the usual download sites.
>>
>>2502004
is this true?
>>
>>2502720
>ABS: 90% of the plastics in your car
If your parts need to hold up to cyclic loading / vibration, PLA and especially PETG perform terribly in fatigue.
>>
>>2503164
If your printer pauses for a couple seconds between layers then yes.

tl;dr the printer writes to the sdcard in between layers so it can recover. If you got a slow sdcard or crap board then that write takes time.

I turn it off because it never recovers correctly anyways.
>>
>>2502720
PLA and PETG are breddy much useless for anything under screw tension because over time it creeps, deforms under pressure even at room temperature, and the screw becomes loose as a goose over time.

This is also the reason why it's not good for anything under belt tension, like a lot of printed 3D printer parts are.

ABS parts are also easily solvent welded, sanded, polished, painted, and glue sticks very well to them, unlike PLA and PETG. Frankly, ABS is the king of filaments and always will be.
>>
>>2503193
>Frankly, ABS is the king of filaments and always will be.
ASA would like a word.
>>
>>2501956
https://hackaday.com/2022/11/14/3d-printer-z-sensor-claims-0-01mm-resolution/
>3D PRINTER Z SENSOR CLAIMS 0.01 MM RESOLUTION
>A new probe called BDsensor is inductive but can read the height over the bed in real time.
>being able to take real-time soundings of the nozzle height leads to some interesting possibilities such as real-time adjustments of Z height
https://youtu.be/yx8pluEu0sg
>>
>>2503193
>Frankly, ABS is the king of filaments and always will be.
My nigger!
>>
>>2503233
360p video in 2022. This is either a joke or they're purposely hiding something.
>>
>>2503244
The system itself is fundamentally flawed. You can kind of see the print fail when they jack the bed up. The nozzle goes way high and losses adhesion because the sensor is actually detecting fan shroud to bed and not nozzle to bed. It's a solution seeking a problem.
>>
how many walls should I set to print for the AWCY CZ Skorpion Evo?
>>
Just got my Bambu x1c today, can't wait to get printing
>>
BTW, anyone know anything about this? elyarchi.com/product.html
>>
>>2503303
Does it not provide that info? 5 would be a good start.
>>
>>2503308
Is it ready yet? Let's see some maxed out acceleration prints.
>>
Has anyone here built a Voron V0? Is it as tough to build as some people say it is? Am I in over my head if I've only had an ender 3? I'm not particularly handy but have some engineering background fwiw.
>>
Is thingiverse bugged right now or is it just me? Can't seem to open comments
>>
>>2502943
Well fuck. Any way to know for sure short of taking a multimeter to it?
>>
Finally pulled the plug and ordered boron nitride paste.
>>
Will a bi-metallic heat break protect my Capricorn tube from high temp printing? I want to print some esun polycarbonate
>>
>>2503462
With a bi-metallic heatbreak the PTFE is no longer in contact with the hot nozzle so it doesn't heat up anymore.
Standard all metal heatbreaks do this too.
>>
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>want to buy a 3d printer
>also don't want to spend the money
why am i such a jew
>>
>>2503471
build one from dvd drives
>>
>>2502961
>literal r/voron hurr durr serial number faggot
building from scratch is only for people who don't have anything useful to print.
>look ma I 3d printed another part for my printer!!!
people who do real shit with their printer have no reason to not pay the exact same amount for it to work out of the box
>>
>>2503169
>PETG perform terribly in fatigue
explain pls. like material fatigue from vibration/rotation load? because my GPS mounts are PETG and heat deformation (windshield sun) has been an issue but actually supporting the GPS without cracking (fatigue) has not.
>>
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>>2503303
well it fucking depends doesn't it? seven, two, five. what the fuck are you printing and what layer height?
>>
>>2503471
I've printed for 5 years on a $150 printer. I'm almost ready to upgrade.
>>
What's the next big step in FDM printing? Feels like the market is stale and waiting to improve again.
>>
>>2503585
3rd axis slicers
>>
>>2503585
For the mainstream? Corexy and multi-material that doesn't suck. Maybe klipper becoming a standard too.
>>
>print new version mount currently in use
>looks big
>it's ~2.2mm too big across a 45mm diameter
ffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuuuu

I don't know if this is material (PETG -> PLA+) cura version or Fusion360 retarded bullshit.
>>
>>2503457
That wouldn't even do imo, when I had weird layers that would seem to shrink and grow in regular patterns and it was the thermistor, all I could do was change it out and test it. With a multimeter you can measure the resistance sure but how are you going to know it's right, or even hold the temperature constant without it since it's the controlling measurement?
Otherwise check your hot end temps on the time/temp chart, maybe it's fluctuating a lot up and down and your PID settings aren't keeping it within a tight enough range, check the hot end fan too to see if it's randomly turning off and on. Just now thought of this but also try a different filament, if you got a bad roll with really varying thickness it'll show up in prints.
>>
>>2503585
fading into a niche hobby
>>
>>2503565
Here's a reason to build your own: no proprietary parts, so years down the read if something breaks you aren't dependent on a specific manufacturer having a replacement part in stock. They might not even be in business still.
>>
>>2503585
Slicing a step file directly, instead of converting it to an stl for slicing.
>>
I'm having difficulty at designing a good air flow cavity for a blower I'm printing in 3D with salveaged parts from a hair dryer.
Are there some tips to do it? I couldn't find anything reasonable on internet.
>>
Is there a thread dedicated to printed minis/ttg stuff anywhere?
>>
>>2503698
There's normally one on >>>/tg/.
>>
>>2502004
>FIRST FOR TURN OFF POWER LOSS REC
What a load of bullshit that some noname basedboy hyped up.
Ive been 3D printing for 8 year now and never once had problem with blobs and speed due to the way gcode is processed by the printers.
>>
>>2503711
You ever turn off power loss recovery?
>>
>>2502267
Some plastics are toxic fren
>>
Convince me there is a downside to installing Klipper on a shitty old laptop rather than a pi.
>>
>>2503792
You need GPIO for more advanced functionality, like connecting accelerometers, individually addressable LEDs, etc

Also, Pis are low power, low maintenance devices designed to be run 24/7. Mine is powered by my printer mainboard's 5V line and is on whenever the printer is on, and is tucked inside the chassis. A laptop would be kind of annoying to deal with. But if you can make it work for you, more power to you. My advice is to just get one.
>>
>>2503585
slice from .dwg, slice from .obj/step, 3 axis slicing, 4-5 axis printing and slicing, combination with CNC router head for versatility, at-home metal printing with a mechanism to sinter at home using infilled polymers, greater mechanical accuracy to the point of being gimmicky
>>
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ah, so this is the true potential of 3d printing
>>
>>2503829
basically yeah. i should be printing amoguses out of shitty plastic and just leave them everywhere
>>
>>2503471
Hold on to that mindset, a lot of people quit the hobby because they realize its over their head. You might find a good deal on one on facebook marketplace.

If where you live has black friday, check out online sites/microcenter for any deals.

Everyone and their dead ancestors always recommend ender 3, that printer is love/hate relationship and causes a lot of people to quit.

If you buy a creality based 3d printer, expect to spend a few hours to make sure everything is mechanically sound before trying to print.
>>
>>2503585
closed loops stepper motors.
>>
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>>2501956
>Someone Else Make These Fucking Collages Edition
lmao I know that feel bro
>>
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From my brand new Bambu X1 Carbon. My first printer
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>>2503886
>>
>>2503886
That's not fair, you have to start out making garbage, like >>2503829 did! Let us crowd source your print settings so you can experience the painful learning curve.
>>
>>2501956
I just finished making a few macro pads for my brothers after they liked the one I printed for myself
I figured I'd ask here since I'd imagine it's not the most uncommon thing in this general, is there a GUI/app I can send them that's retard friendly so they can assign keys/directories to their pads? The ones I've made use raspberry pi picos, and I told them I could walk them through doing it with the super basic python it takes to "manually" assign key combos to the pad like I did while following this guide: https://www.makeuseof.com/how-to-build-macro-pad-on-budget/ but they're both borderline autistic and real impatient and wouldn't sit down for a lightning walkthrough
>>
>>2503902

This is just some shit im throwing to see if it sticks.

maybe make a gui that connects to the serial port of the macro pad, maybe some sort of an identifier to make it automatically connect, and have the code functions that normally be on the pico be on the pc, and then just make it configurable to assign hotkey to each function.
>>
Considering making a new fan shroud for mr e5+, either herome7 or a stealthburner, but need advice on material to use. I've seen some posts about PLA and even PETG fan ducts melting, so I want to use either ASA or PC-PBT. However, I don't have an enclosure yet, so I am cautious about offgassing with more exotic materials. The maker of the PC-PBT told me that it "just smells" and that their SDS mentioning irritation is just CYA policy. Any anons used PC for printing before?
>>
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Is there a reason so many 3d printed things I see online are not sanded at all? Is it just laziness or is it really hard to do somehow?
>>
>>2503923
why would I sand something that's only meant to be functional
>>
>>2503164
I have seen visible difference on the Ender 3s. The functionality is badly implemented and the prints never seem to run after power off anyway. Maybe my board is slow/sd card has slow read/write speeds, idk. But doing this helped improve the print quality on my prints.
>>2503711
Try turning it off and rerun a print. Preferably on a cheaper / stock machine. Post results so you can deboooonk me.
>>
>>2503923
I dont sand them because i dont know how to and sanding usually destroys the finish. I am not going to paint this or whatever.
>>
>>2503923
pla doesn't sand well and it's a very common and cheap filament.
>>
>>2503566
Here's a helpful and simple video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhUclxBUV_E

Your mounts are fine in PETG. If you want to print parts for RC cars/drones, robots, printer structural parts, etc, ABS is a strictly superior choice.
>>
>>2503868
Im 5 years into printing and have never had a skipped step
>>
>>2503941
Resume saved my print on my ender 3 when I accidentally pulled the power out
>>
>>2503915
CF-ASA and I presume glass filled ASA, or just one of the anti warp flavors of ASA+ warps less than vanilla ABS, but with all of them you can get away with 15-20 line brim coupled with throwing a cardboard box over your printer for an enclosure (add a clear packing tape window if you want to get really fancy).
For the fumes, just have a fan blowing out the nearest window, and have another window open to draw fresh air into the room. Like Zyklon B, the ABS smell is very over rated; a little bit won't hurt you, just don't suck them down all day every day without some sort of filtration system.
Haven't printed with PC, but I do know Voron printed parts are designed with the shrink of ABS in mind, so you may not get what you want with another filament in a lot of cases.
>>
>>2503987
>accidentally pulled the power out
Try it after enough time has passed and the bed / nozzle has cooled down. I live in a place where power outages are common and last a while. This does not help. The print comes off the bed because it cools down. Whenever the print resumes, it knocks parts off because the adhesion isnt there anymore.
Also, GEE lets have this function that fucks with 99% of my work, just so that it MAYBE helps me in a chance scenario that has a 0.001% chance of occurrence.
>>
What does /3dpg/ do with failed prints ? or prints that got remade later and are useless now ? I have a few filament boxes full of them idk what to do.
>>
>>2502267
Sounds like cookeville. Or a dozen other towns, I guess.
>>
>>2504011
I've been saving it for the nebulous future time when it becomes easier to reprocess it too. Seems like that ain't really happening. I'd build a rig to respool it myself but I don't have space.
>>
>>2504010
My prints don’t come off the bed once cooled down it becomes more difficult to remove, your nozzle probably isn’t close enough or you’re mismatching build surface to material.
>>
>>2504017
It shouldn’t be that hard, just time consuming and tedious to make a working build to recycle.
>>
>>2504035
ok boomer
>>
Does android have app that can control your printer directly like cura does?
>>
what are the differences between fusion360 and solidworks so i know which one to torrent
>>
>>2504082
One is a really good industry standard CAD with easy to learn interface.
The other is autodesk garbage with cloud integration intended for "makers".
>>
>>2504091
so why does the OP say that most guys here use fusion360
>>
>>2504092
Because OP is a faggot, as always.
>>
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>>2504093
i see, i see...
>>
>>2504092
most guys here are zoomers, have an attention span of 1 angstrom, and don't care about le cloud.
>>
>>2504095
what's so good about the cloud anyway?
>>
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Still pirating virused CAD programs when plugins like CAD Sketcher exists.
>>
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>>2504082
c-can somebody just tell me where to get them please?
>>
>>2504105
The anon you're replying to literally says where he's going to get them from.
>>
>>2503992
Unfortunately, exhausting out a window isn't too attractive in the 36F ohio weather. I suppose I can take the manufacturer at their word and live with a few prints without an enclosure.
>>
>>2504109
i am that anon...
i haven't torrented anything in about 5 years and all the sites that i used to use have been shut down or blocked by my country
dunno what people use now
>>
Give me a template for the collage and I will happily make them
>>
>>2504105
Just use Onshape
>>
>>2504113
Not that I'm dumb enough to warez software in 2022 but Pirate Bay still works.
>>
>>2504112
An SDS wouldn't contain anything about the off gassing happening when the filament is heated and extruded. Build yourself an enclosure. It's $40 in acrylic and wood (or aluminum) if you want to get fancy or a cardboard box with some saranwrap around it if you're poor fagging it.
>>
>>2503629
name one proprietary part that isn't easily replaced with an off the shelf part right now
>>
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>>2503874
>new Folder(10)
>>
>>2503886
>>2503887
how is it? are you set for 2 color out of the box?
>>
>>2503363
TL;DR if you want to learn something new then build one. I built a Voron Zero last year and it was pretty fun. Its a good little workhorse. The problem I faced was making the wiring arrangement tidy due to its small form factor. Wiring diagrams were a bit confusing but only because I'm not a sparky. You can buy kits or source the parts yourself through Aliexpress. With the 3D printed parts I had someone make them for me in ABS.
>>
>>2504112
>exhausting out a window isn't too attractive in the 36F ohio weather
as long as the vent is on this shouldn't be a problem. all of your bathroom vents and the dryer vent all sit with just a flap of metal to keep backdraft to a minimum. putting an exhaust in the window and having the fan on should just pull out.
>>
>>2504082
fusion360 is free and you don't need to torrent it
>>
>>2504082
>torrent
>fusion360
dipshit here doesn't understand the concept of software made for schools and businesses
i bet you pirated winrar too, huh?
>>
>>2504135
Not poorfagging, just haven't gotten around to it yet. Once I get the workbench it will sit on refinished, I'll make the enclosure out of MDF with acrylic front.
>>
>>2504144
Bambu X1 hotend, and anything on the enclosure that breaks.
>>
>>2503934
Well yeah functional only ones
>>2503942
>Destroys the finish
But the finish is a bunch of lines unsanded
>>2503945
That makes sense then
>>
>>2504211
For stringing or something mild just use acetone or a cigarette lighter / butane torch. It will just melt the stringing away. Dont overdo it or you will fuck it up.
>>
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>>2504154
>>
>>2504082
Solidworks is only $4k, what's the problem?
>>
>>2504236
I do the $20 educational loicense per year for solidworks.
I just like it better than F360
>>
I have an ender 3s1 with the sprite head, I see the newer enders with the same head can go to 300C print temps. I want to print some nylon, what do I need to get it there? I already have an enclosure, just need to get a filament drier.
>>
>>2504159
I torrent my youtube videos nigga
Limewire 4 life nigga
>>
>>2504082
Torrent Inventor, its the offline higher horsepower version of Fusion 360
For every 360 tutorial, you can apply it to your inventor project.
>>
>>2504270
Do you have to have a school email or something, or can I just use it as a hobbyist?
>>
>>2504304
I signed up for Titans of CNC class and that gets you access to the loicense.
>>
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What is the smallest volume/footprint heatblock+heatbreak out there? Im thinking in the range of a 3d pen hotend, but a little bigger is fine too.
>>
how long did it take for you guys to become competent/proficient in 3d modelling and 3d printing?
t. wanna make 3d printed moulds for carbon fibre parts
>>
>>2504409
You can learn to make basic shapes in a day, but it takes a lifetime to learn all the more advanced little tricks that are required to make professional looking parts, and by "a lifetime", I mean a year or two of using CAD regularly.
Just sketch a shape, extrude it into a body, sketch another shape on one of those surfaces, extrude a cut, fillet edges, and you're done. Don't forget to include a draft angle in your design so you can get it out of the mold.
>>
>>2504409
i've been doing it since 2014, for fun and profit.
im still not competent, but its good enough for the minor editing i do.
the best part about 3d printing is if you want to do it, someone else has done it better , and probably documented it all online.
>>
>>2504418
>>2504423
cool, thanks gigachads
>>
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man google ketchup (2017) is so fucking easy
>>
>>2504409
I have been doing it for 2 years, other than getting my printer dialed in and having made some really really basic geometry inFreeCAD I havent made anything of my own. As far as importing models from thingiverse goes - fixing them in blender and Mesh Lab, getting the cura settings dialed in, and setting up this script that lets windows show thumbnails of STL files so you dont have to open each and everyone to check what it is. inb4 trojan, idk it works fine on mine (https://papas-best . com/stlthumbnails_en). I could never get tinker cad to work or make those "emboss your name on this item" files to work though lmao.
>>
>>2504409
>>2504423
>>2504455
Adding to this:
https://the3dprinterbee . com/cura-mold-mode/
Cura now has a mold mode setting which I havent used.I remember some faggot making assplugs on a resin printer to then make a mold out of for pouring silicon. Like this anon said
>the best part about 3d printing is if you want to do it, someone else has done it better , and probably documented it all online.
That said, I am going to try and make a mold for something and fuck it up with some POP because why not. Be sure to have your print dialed in because any surface imperfections on the mold are 100% going to show on whatever you make out of it.
>>
>>2504458
That's why you make the mould or plug slightly oversize and out of ABS, to acetone smooth it. Or make it out of whatever undersize and use body-filler, sand it, and coat it with a glossy high-surface-tension paint. Silicone-paint is a good way to go for a mould as you don't need any mould release.

Resin printing inherently makes more sense if you want detailed castings, but if you want something structural I'm pretty sure that composites channel used normal FDM prints to make forged CFRP parts.
>>
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>>2504440
Shit, did the model backwards. Also those little ledges are lifting a bit high, so I had to drop them by half a mm for the remodel. Should be finished printing in 5 minutes now.

I'm guessing I need better filament airflow to prevent lifting up of small pieces like that? Can't really see it in this pic since I trimmed them. I've seen those multi-directional cooling setups that look neat, but I'm unsure if they'd last if made from PLA. Or PLA+ or PET for that matter.
>>
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>>2504478
Bah, now they're too small to be effective, so I'll ditch them. Also the fit is a tad tight so it's flexing. I'll print the final one tomorrow.

It's a bracket to clamp two TO-220 transistors to a heat-sink. Well actually to the outside of an aluminium case. The bracket will be pressed against the back of a circuit board and has to weave its way around a couple of components, hence the strange shape and cantilever.
>>
>>2504482
why not just go the old fashioned way of drilling in the heatsink, and putting thermal paste and sticking them on there and forgetting about them forever ?
>>
>>2504491
Well the aluminium case has built-in standoffs that leave 6mm between the board and the bottom. The FETs are ~4mm thick. I figure making some spacers such that the board being screwed down pushes the FETs into the bottom of the case is the most compact and elegant method.

I could bolt the FETs to the case and run some wires to the PCB, but that would make assembling it quite difficult without long wires, and I'm not very fond of long wires going to my FETs.
>>
thinking about making this wood lathe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2ODwkK4meQ
anyone else made one?
>>
What's /3dpg/'s opinion on maplemaker mini v2? I was pretty impressed with their documentations, but apparently community feedback on it has been rather skeptical
>>
Trying to design a prostate massager that looks like an ordinary pen to pack in my backpack for everyday use on the go. Between work and school I'm usually away from home 14h a day and I really can't go that long without stimulation for my prostate, because of medical reasons. I'd like to know what plastics are going to be safe for internal use so I can go ahead and having it shipped now
>>
>>2504539
I see no reason why PLA wouldn't be safe as long as it's pure PLA. Gonna want to sand that down though I imagine.
>>
>>2504546
Won't be dishwasher safe though
>>
>>2504539
Nigga what medical reasons do you have that you need to stimulate your prostate every couple of hours?
>>
>>2504550
It's a mental illness called bein a faggot
>>
>>2504539
> I really can't go that long without stimulation for my prostate
focus on your studies you fucking faggot, God you retards are insufferable. Pack a real massager in your backpack because no one is going to check it and B just choke on it.
> I'd like to know what plastics are going to be safe for internal use so I can go ahead and having it shipped now
Ship yourself to the bottom of the ocean heathen
>>
>>2504539
>>>/lgbt/
>>2504539
>what plastics are going to be safe for internal use
e.g. PCL, PHBV
>>
>>2504011
Unironically use them for tabletop game terrian/diroma bases

Put a little bit of effort in it, and sell it on ebay.
>>
>>2504154
>free
Not anymore my dog. They changed that awhile ago. Now its a cloud based subscription model
>>
>>2504606
Weird, I'm continuing to use it completely free. The only restriction is some import file types and having 10 editable files at once which you can toggle on/off however many times you like.
>>
Fusion360 is down, what a shit show. Need to get my shit together and learn FreeCad or something else.
>>
>>2504620
FreeCAD is so fucking horrible.
>>
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Hello brothers, has anyone sold prints on fiverr or etsy?, i live in mexico and tried to make a small printing business but most people here don't even know what printing is or aren't willing to pay good money for it. So i thought of better selling the service on these sites, is it profitable? is it hard?, is it slow to get costumers at the beginning?
>>
>>2504644
>is it profitable?
Not really. You can make money printing bootleg minis but the market is very saturated.

>is it hard?
About as hard as ebay.

>is it slow to get costumers at the beginning?
Would depend on your offerings but since you don't know the market yes.

Imo, only way to make good money is local business. Find a nitch and fill it. One thing I do is make little parts for cnc shops. A lot of times customer's designs will call for small intricate parts that would take multiple setups and operations to mill so they farm those little parts to me. Customer saves money, cnc shop saves the effort, and I get paid for a couple minutes of slicing and playing video games.
>>
Any good tutorials on creating alignment pegs/pins for 3d models? Meshmixer shits itself on my machine.
>>
>>2503923
The surface finish as is, is good enough.

If I am going to sand anything, not just a 3d print, I am going to paint it or add some kind of finishing coat to it. I see lots of painted 3d prints so if you're someone that only looks in threads this general where people are trying to hone their printing skills, yeah you're mostly going to see unfinished parts.
>>
>>2504539
Paint any old filament in food-safe silicone paint, or any other food-safe thermoset resin. Should smooth out the layer lines too.
>>
im about to buy some shit for my printers, ptfe, all metal heatbreak extra heatblock nozzles and extruder gear anything else i need?
>>
>>2504826
Maybe some nice PC fans to modify the cooling setup? Thin spudger for removing prints? A different sort of bed? Feeler-gauges?
>>
>>2504620
freecad is great if you read prints but it sucks as a notradez normie. you basically need to know how to blueprint, which is not hard, nor time consuming, but it is specialized. it also doesn't hurt to know a little bit about the materials you print with.
>>
>>2504539
>because of medical reasons
yeah, being a raging homosexual. holy fucking shit dude, lay off the porn and do more printing that's NOT a fucking sex toy
>>
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are there any black friday deals going on right now for cheap-ish 3d printers?
>>
>>2504842
my prints dont stick that hard, i dont use fans and feeler guages... i just make changes to z-offset till i get the best first layer i can, default beds work fine for me though the ender 3's crazy textured is overkill i like my smoothish spring steel bed but im not about to buy a new one for 30$ on ebay ill check the hardware store for some thin steel sheets instead and hammer a texture into it was looking at G10 my ender3's bed looks like an accordion and currently has a bunch of paper strips leveling it
>>
>>2504858
ender 3s are always on sale, and that's a great way to get into the hobby. if not that, check on the other creality chinkshit offerings, and then maybe look at prusa. idk man, at the end of the day you should really just be looking at creality if you want cheap. they do serviceably good base model shit for cheap then you can mod it as needed, also for cheap, and learn how the fuckers work while you mod it
>>
>>2504863
>ender 3
what's the resale value on one of those?
>>
>>2504878
resale? who gives a fuck about resale? you run it til it fucking dies (never) then you keep it as a silly/risky shit printer when you upgrade.
>>
>>2504878
i got my e3p for 99$ from microcenter and i think its dogshit worth about 50$
>>
>>2504880
did you set it up right? at the end of the day, 75% of all computerized manufacturing is the setup. the computer is retarded, and you are its tardwrangler. if you don't set it up right it's going to sperg out and cause trouble. wrangle it adeptly, and it will be rewarding
>>
>>2504883
its my second printer and compared to my 200$ it has chink shit ptfe, loud steppers and a zigzag warped bed
>>
>>2504879
because i'm not sure how i should approach my entry into 3d printing
i'm trying to make high quality moulds with the printer so i'm unsure if i should start with a cheap printer, learn and then sell it while buying a better quality one or if i should buy a higher quality one from the start
>>
>>2504888
cut your teeth with cheap shit
>>
>>2504888
>because i'm not sure how i should approach my entry into 3d printing
simply and with low expectations
>i'm trying to make high quality moulds with the printer
define high quality. if you're just looking for aesthetics, your goal is absolutely doable with an ender 3 and some tuning. keep in mind that printers are *not* going to be holding a thousandth at the hobbyist level any time soon, .005" or .010" is doable with the right material and a LOT of tuning. then you have to compete with layer lines, and that can be either a surface finish irritation or a GDT nightmare depending on the project. but if you're retarded enough to use GDT as a hobbyist on a printer without expressly using it to make life easier, you're a retard who doesn't deserve nice things to begin with
>>
I finally made the switch to a smooth/textured PEI flex bed
It's so goddamn nice.
No hair spray, no glue, no binder clips
>>
>>2504888
Might resin printing be more appropriate for mould making? Especially if you're casting something hot directly into them (e.g. soap, chocolate, candle wax). If it's just printing a plug to model the mould around then the melting point matters less, so long as the curing of the thermoset mould doesn't get the plastic too hot.
>>
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>>2504511
pls respon
>>
>>2504898
resin printing leave a cubic voxel surface finish that is unlike any other kind of manufacturing on the planet. you can literally see the pixelated "layers" on a resin print. it's really cool actually, but unfortunately it's the same issue as FDM: is your application going to be forgiving of a wonky surface finish or not? if so, go for it. if not, you can either layermaxx at the cost of integrity and time or you can "price in" a post-process finish with your tolerancing. using something like ABS would really help here, because you can very easily vapor smooth ABS with acetone and not lose too much on any dimension. it'll apparently make the part stronger too, because it chemically welds the layers together for a short distance into the part.
>>
>>2504892
>simply and with low expectations
oh these days i have no expectations for anything - that way i can never be disappointed
>define high quality
smooth-ish finish (can i sand it), strong enough to reuse at least 100+ times, scratch resistant surface
the moulds are no smaller than my head and i don't need to make tiny 1/10th-of-a-millimetre changes to the mould shape so i'm not too worried about that
yeah it seems that cheap shit is the way to go for now

>>2504898
i'm experimenting at the moment with different materials, at the moment i'm using fibreglass but eventually i'll probably switch to high-temp epoxy so i can chuck it in an autoclave for use with pre-preg carbon fibre so i'll probably just get started making basic shapes on the printer and when i get the hang of 3d modelling, i think i should start making proper 3d-printed plugs for handmade moulds because fuck spending $2k on a rear wing when i can just 3d print one

>>2504904
no idea buddy, i don't even have a 3d printer lol
>>
>>2504905
also with the shit i'm making, i have to get the surface to a glass-like finish before i move on to the next step
i'll check your idea out
>>
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>>2501956
>Creality Ender 3 (v2)
>v2
>>
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Got a chonky .75mm nozzle for .6mm layers but having trouble reining in the seams.
>>
>buy enclosure
>all problems go away
who says money can't buy happiness
>>
>>2504918
>having trouble reining in the seams.
you're printing in fucking strips guy, don't expect a finish of any kind. why are you even printing like this?
>>
>>2504905
What about laser-based resin printers?
>>
>>2504947
redpill me on these
>>
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>>2504947
that's what i am talking about, all resin printers are light based (except that one i don't know about). most are based on laser diode arrays, which define the print resolution and resins that are usable.
>>
>>2504957
extremely fast printing compared to FDM, much different finish (better), much less worries about layer adhesion, and it's fucking cool. resins are EXTREMELY toxic and fume like a motherfucker. washing is required because the resins are so toxic. colors are more limited than FDM. prices are comparable, but support and aftermarket is generally greatly limited because there's really nothing to modify. iirc it also requires a special slicer because it's not actually moving anything, it's just flashing lights.
>>
>>2504959
No you're confusing the LED arrays in MSLA and DLP printers, which have finite pixel definitions. But the original SLA printers used a single diode laser and an analogue galvo that scans out vector paths. Probably a fair bit slower than exposing the entire build surface at once, but you can get much nicer surface finishes.
>>
>>2504963
i think i'm just gonna stick to an ender before i learn more
i just don't know what the final printed product looks like on the surface with your typical filament materials
if i can find something that is moderately smooth which i can then sand down and polish with no change to structural integrity or dimensions within 5mm, i'm laughing
>>
>>2504975
google it my nigga. you can literally find pics of multiple layer heights online.
>>
>>2504974
damn. what's a good entry point for sla that won't kill me or give me cancer if i run it in my bedroom?
>>
>>2504977
Just buy a tent and run it in there.
>>
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>>2504976
i've been doing that for like the past 2 hours
slowly learning
>>
>>2504977
A fume hood.

Further, laser-based SLA printers are almost non-existent in the hobby sphere anyhow, at least not anywhere under $1000, and even then you'd have to get a close look at the specs to see what kind of minimum feature size you can get. MSLA is the current standard, but the mid/upper range printers are likely going to be taken over by DLP in the future, which doesn't have issues with the LCD getting cooked and needing replacement. They are more expensive though.
LCD and DLP printers are both still pretty decent in terms of fine details, a lot better than FDM even for a cheap printer like the Anycubic Photon Mono (20 pixels/mm = 50 µm/pixel).
>>
I want a really good IDEX printer that does high temp materials to complete my fleet (for now). I've been looking at getting a qidi i fast after my friends dad got the qidi X CF and it seems cheap compared to similar offerings not that cash is a concern at all as my butget is like softly at 6000. But I'm not sure if this is as good as i should settle for at the moment as its missing some of the premium features like ABL. How bad is it to take the heads apart on on these to clog jams and preform maintenance?
>>
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>got an old ender 3 in a trade years ago
>upgraded it
>recently bought a "for parts" ender 3 pro off ebay for $50
>flipped over the y axis extrusion to use undamaged v grooves, added tensioners, works great.
>Swap all my upgrades to the pro, move the standard parts to the original, tune it up to give it to my bro for his birthday.
>can't find the pneumatic fitting for the stock hotend
>finally salvage one from somewhere
>Find the one I lost

Durr
>>
>ender 3 v2, apparently only used twice, with 5 rolls of pla+ and a scratched printer bed for sale for $250
>seller is a woman who says that "usually comes in many parts and from my observation, difficult to build. This printer was assembled by an IT Professional"
hmm lol i might buy this one instead of a brand new one
>>
>>2505017
>5 rolls of pla+ for $250
I'd buy it
>and a scratched printer bed for sale
lol
BUY IT ALREADY
>>
>>2505017
>print with Karlie
lmao
good deal
>>
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>>2505037
>>2505073
as somebody who doesn't know anything about 3d printers, i can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not
>>
>>2505085
the real question is: are you /diy/, or are you someone who will ditch it on the slightest hurdle?
>>
>>2505086
i plan to use 3d printers for the rest of my life or until they become redundant
>>
>>2505103
It's an Ender 3, it'll be lucky to last the rest of it's own life.
>>
>>2505154
Hey galaxy brain, how would anything last beyond its own life?
>>
>>2505017
The bed or the mag sheet? I have a 3 pro with two holes through the mag sheet and plenty of scratches, works fine. Upgraded to bltouch (after auto home and z prove offset and auto home, level the corners to match then redo z offset, then auto level and it'll be good).
>>
>>2505167
"I just bought this thing how the fuck is this part broken already"
>>
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>>2505167
>what you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others
>>
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>>2505168
>>
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Starting a little screw collection for projekts. Just M2.5, M3, and M4 right now.
Anything I'm missing?
>>
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Do I need to calibrate extrusion width or something?
>>
>>2505167
I think he meant that ender 3 has very long lives and literally can't die unless you managed to completely destroy/melt it in a house fire or some shit (since almost all of it is generic off the shelf parts)
>>
>>2504418
>professional looking parts
>looking
god I hate you fucking children
>>
>>2505214
Okay, what nozzle size are you using, and what layer height are you printing at?
>>
>>2505219
...... it's .75mm at a .6mm layer height and the print suggests printing with a nozzle less than .6 but still that top layer should be connecting
>>
>>2505210

Are you dumb or what? 120$ to buy hardware that you don't even know if you will ever use? Really?
It's just like buying a pack of 100 condoms before even starting to date girls.

You are missing a better way to fill your life.
>>
>>2505229
I use them all the time in RC stuff at the very minimum. Getting American steel versus chinese mystery metal. That's why I stuck to those three since I use them the most and will use them in projects I got coming up.
>>
>>2505210
Nice! What store?
>>
>>2505239
Bolt Depot
2mm is the smallest metric you're going to get.
>>
>>2503164
No. I only saw it as an issue in some YouTube video I think it's the guy that wears a teleprompter on his eye, I forget his name. Anyways I have my printers hooked up to a smart power strip and I think it got overloaded when I accidentally voice commanded a fourth outlet to turn on or turn off I don't know there was some kind of freak out with the Smart Wi-Fi and the printer turning off or overloading long story short is the printer turned off and when I got it to start working again it told me that it had power shut off protection which I didn't even know it had. The ender 3 pro finished the print just fine the only thing was a noticeable band at the layer where it stopped so if it was an issue I could sand it but I wasn't printing things that had to be aesthetically pleasing they just had to make it through a buyback.

This could be important though: depending on your bed and how long the power is out for I've noticed that with my glass bed Ender 3v2 versus the pro - when the prints cool off they tend to pop off the bed so if there's a power outage and the bed completely cools down before you get to it parts could pop off if you don't treat the bed. I print naked but for ABS I do use ABS adhesion so if the power went out it probably won't be an issue but for pla stuff that I don't use any treatments - if the power goes out I'll probably be fucked out of my print. If I'm building something that big and that long I'm probably not using pla but I'm not going to say anything in absolutes.

Good luck and try it for yourself with a sacrificial print.
>>
>>2503471
>Totally not be me
>Totally not drag your friends and family to a not-so local electronic store to take advantage of their new customer only $100 3D printer deal
>Totally not leave the boxed printers sitting around your house for a year because you can never be bothered to put them together
>Find out that there's a buyback 500 mi away and then realize you have a stack of 3D printers sitting in the other room
>Totally not put them all together like a madman one day to print out funs around the clock up until the last minute.
>Totally not drive hours on end only to sit in line for another 2 hours then have police inspect your work only to wave you through so they can pay you several thousand from tax dollars: enough to pay for your entire print farm

Yeah I can be a Jew and super stingy with money and do anything to save a buck, but sometimes you just have to look at things as an investment. I had my cr-10 well I still have my cr-10 and I've had it for years and it has served me well and it made a few bucks here and there but that print farm was an instant windfall for me that has paid for my entire hobby. The bonuses family members having to take you seriously after such an order.
>>
>>2504409

I'm an architectural engineer and a PhD student. Right now, my whole work is about 3D modeling at a very technical level
3D modeling is a huge universe. Modeling for cinema or modeling for engineering are both 3D modeling but are completely different. Different techniques (polygonal, nurbs, etc.), different programs, different purposes. Even in engineering, it’s completely different if you need to model for BIM, for numerical analysis or so on. Usually, the hardest thing to learn is how the object you are designing should be, then how the 3D model should be and lastly how to model it in 3D.
For 3D printing it’s similar. You must learn how to print the pieces for your task. You can easily figure out that printing an action figure, that should only be pretty, is different than printing a mechanical prat that must be able to sustain the loads.
So, first thing first you must learn how a carbon fiber mold must be. Then you must understand how to manufacture it. You will need to print the molds in parts? You will need to sand the interior and apply epoxy? You will need to build a supporting wooden frame? That’s not obvious and must be accounted BEFORE even starting to model. Once the blueprint is clear, you can start to look for the best tools for the job. What 3D printer? I guess an FTM. What software? Maybe you could start with Fusion360, but maybe Rhino could be better, other software like solidworks are way too expensive I guess. You could use something like Blender, but it’s not easy for precise works.
At the end of the day, how much time you will need for each task? It’s complicated, you will need to study, then learn by trial and error, and so on.

But as a bottom line, I think that learning 3D modeling and 3D printing is not the most time consuming part.
>>
>>2503585
The next big improvement will be coming from the software side not the hardware side. You'll be thinking back to your past self wondering what it was like to remove supports from your prints.
>>
>>2503833
If you can afford five bucks per print you can swap them out for firearms then sit back and watch the madness.
>>
>>2504100
The always present slight chance of meatballs at any given moment.
>>
>>2505085
>and a scratched printer bed for sale
i replaced mine with a glass pane that you use for photoframes or windows, had to cut it to size, the thickness was 0,2mm more than stock. Works like a dream.
Just google how much PLA+ retails for. Check for other defects on the printer though. This is your first one, it WILL have something go wrong and then its upto you to get it to work
>>2505208
you call this scratched ? lmao
>>
>>2503585

FDM is an old tecnology. You can improve it, but we already are at a sifnificant high level of development, so big steps are unlikely IMHO.

Allowing from more input files than stl don't look like an improvement to me.
Non planar slicing have been proposed lots of times, even in academic papers, but never took off because it's not that useful. Gcode is really simple, and if you have to perform very specific tasks, you can easelly prepare your own slicer or just design directly the gcode instead of slice a 3D model.

Imho, a thing that could be a nice step for 3D printing is to implement a slicing tecnique able to produce more isotropic mechanical properties. I have no idea how to achieve it, but I guess some non planar slicing should be used.
>>
>make sure to not leave your resin prints in the UV chamber too long or they will get overcured

what a fucking load of crap.
if that was true you couldn't ever take your prints outside because the sun would overcure them.
>>
>>2505275
>Allowing from more input files than stl don't look like an improvement to me.

From the perspective of some surface level user who just downloads shit off thingiverse, sure

For someone who downloads shit off thingiverse and then decides a hole needs to be 1mm to the side, having a solid model instead of a mesh would be fucking fantastic.
>>
>>2505244
i hate that onionboy
>>
>>2505282

Your problem is not in the file used for the slicing, but in the file used to exchange the models.
The problem is that it's really easy to standardize polygonal models, it's not easy for nurbs, subsurf or so on.
On top of this, the workflow of programs like solidworks or fusion360, and their propretary project files, doesn't have any relation withthe 3D file formats at all.

I understand that a round hole looks better than a poligonal approximation, but real life sucks and you will need convert curves in polyline for the gcode anyway.
>>
i have a crtouch, i like to use HS_MODE in marlin (where it doesnt fully retract the probe between probings, but with a large enough grid and slow enough travel speed for homing (greater than ~5min long) it times out and auto-retracts... is there any way i can extend this timeout? or just turn off HS_MODE and go the slow route?
>>
>>2502004
>POWER LOSS RECOVERY
lol imagine living in a 3rd world country
>>
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Just preordered bambu x1 carbon. Going to have to save my NNN for a few extra days until it shows up.
>>
>>2505275
Ive been seeing non planar slicing to eliminate supports recently. The fact you can pretty much have a volcano nozzle jutting out of almost any heat block should make this really accessible.
>>
>>2505336

Rewatch the video dude.
Surely it could be really useful for some specific use cases, but the weakness of the approach are briefly explained in the video and more are obvious if you think about it. I guess the paper explains them even better.

We are nowere near a big step here because supports already solve the problem. Soluble supports are quite the silver bullet.
>>
>>2505255
it doesn't cost $5 to print a fuckin monolithic lower lmao, it's like probably 7 or 8 reasonably sized amogus equivalent. now if you want something good like a wildfire or another newer anderson model, yeah, it's more because they're designed with multiple parts that can be replaced. great for usability but not great for leaving places, which is illegal as fuck anyway and i don't recommend or condone anyone doing that. keep your lowers to yourself, retards. now, throwing around cheap SD cards loaded with .stls for lowers...
>>
>>2505255
i live in a noguns nanny-state country
wouldn't stop me, but if i actually wanted something usable i don't think i'd be using PLA

i'd also want to design my own because firearm actions are the coolest fucking shit. was working on a handgun multi-coil coil-gun design but got stuck on how i'd make the edgy quick-release magazine (2x18650s), with a reliable spring-loaded button release mechanism, and spring-loaded battery contacts. could also assemble and program the thing in reverse so it accelerates a spring-loaded plunger back towards be, and suddenly stops as it hits the base, giving a sudden shock of recoil, so i can strap a laser pointer to it and see what my aim cone looks like when rapidly shooting.

t. larper
>>
>>2505475
also just printing an ergonomic grip setup for pistol and rifle that i can bolt onto some iron or lead weights for training while hiking.
>>
>>2505259
Lol
>>
>set print temperature to 205
>shoots up to 300 before it starts cooling down to 205
Something's wrong somewhere. It starts printing as well when it's way past the temperature I've set it too, so the first couple of layers are all kinds of fucked.
>>
>>2505214
.75 at .6mm is a lot of flow, it may be underextruding because your hotend can't melt filament fast enough. Slow down the print, reduce layer height, or get a bondtech high flow nozzle.
>>
>>2505248
What part file did you spam at that police buyback? Did they have to be any level of functional? I have a 0.8mm nozzle just for being able to shit out a bunch of garbage guns for this very reason someday, but I don't want them to be any nicer than they have to be.
>>
>>2505501
Sounds like your thermistor is borderline fucked, and not registering temperature changes intermittently. The printer thinks "it's not hot enough, you pussy, we need to increase temp" then it heats up and suddenly the thermister starts working again and says "what the fucking fuck, it's 300 fucking degrees you dumb fucking nigger!", and then finally gets the signal to cut heater power.
Cheap and easy fix, see if you can switch to a proper metal thermister from the glass one in what I can only assume is your Ender 3. You'll have to recompile your archaic firmware, bit at least your landlord's house won't burn down.
>>
>>2505548
I'll look into that. It's a Replicator 2. I've been bitching and moaning about this thing on these threads for ages now because it seems to be a new issue after fixing another issue. I'm at the point of throwing it out.
>>
>>2505540
you can make a "gun" out of pipe from home depot for like $20-$40 a pop and they have to take it back. presumably, you could print out a bunch of monolithic lowers and turn them in, because they're technically finished firearm receivers. you might have to buy LPKs for them though, idk. depends on whether or not your local PD is following the NFA or not, ironically enough.
>>
>>2505248
this is like the british ban on indian cobras story all over again
>british government in colonial india puts a bounty on cobras because they're everywhere
>indians start hunting cobras
>indians then realise that they can breed cobras and hand them in for infinite money using troll physics
>>
>>2505558
if you aren't trolling your govt, what the fuck are you even doing? when they do retarded shit like this it is your right and duty to make sure they regret it somehow. people making .22lr "pistols" that can only handle one shot or printing lowers at 20% infill is only sensible.
>>
>>2505562
i like drawing penises around potholes with spraypaint and on the ground in front of mobile speed cameras
>>
>>2505564
>Not drawing the penis entering the pothole
C'mon man, do it right.
>>
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>polymaker sent me silk pla instead of what I ordered
>Fuck it use it anyways
>no changes to my usual PLA settings
>Cleaned plate multiple times
>First layers all looking at least this shitty
What the fuck
Is this the silk aspect or did something freak out on my printer between the print that came out clean immediately before this
>>
>>2505572
"silk" pla is notoriously shit to print with, they load it full of shit to make it have that silky look.
>>
>>2505566
kek, no i draw it around the pothole because the local government usually acts pretty quickly to fill in the pothole once they see it
>>
>>2505572
"Silk" is how they get rid of chemicals that are to toxic to dump even in China.
>>
i just printed an amogus
>>
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>>2505017
>it was sold before the cunt could even reply to me
>>
>>2505630
ok dudes i can't find any cheaper ones so i'm just gonna buy a new one with 3 pla+ rolls
are there any immediate upgrades i should buy?
>>
I might be retarded, tried playing with line width setting in cura and now my extruder is clicking like mad and sounds like it's about to die. Only later i learned that when increasing line width i'm supposed to increase flowrate as well

Now is flowrate something like temperature that you can change on the fly.? Or is it fucked and i have to abort the print/reslice it?

>>2505644
Did you get the yellow bed spring or is it still the stock white one?
>>
>>2505540
they had to be fully functional and they ere. I test fired them in my house. It was loud as fuck but I live in the hood and no one called teh cops.The best part was watching the cops try to figure out how to work them.
>>
>>2505248
>tfw no buyback in noguns country
>>
>>2505658
>Did you get the yellow bed spring or is it still the stock white one?
factory stock one? i haven't bought anything yet, not even the 3d printer
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>>2505699
>>2505644
a-anyone? any recommended upgrades for a standard ender 3?
>>
>>2505728
Like i said, that upgraded yellow spring. Pretty much just that

Ender is very much serviceable out of the box with close to no issue, other than the dogshit bed that needs leveling after every print because of the garbage stock springs that wouldn't hold level (which is why i recommended you to get that upgraded springs)
>>
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>>2505736
thanks buddy
>>
>>2505728
z probe, bi-metal heat break,stiffer bed springs,all metal extruder dual z, extra ptfe , nozzles, extruder gears, possibly a a new hotend alltogether thats full metal and direct drive, motherboard upgrade with silent steppers
>>
I just installed a new magnetic print surface on my printer. I'm new to these types of beds.
Is it normal that I need to rebuild my mesh (via probing) every time I remove the magnetic sheet and put it back on?
>>
>>2505793
No it shouldn't be normal.
Are you grognard ripping it off and affecting your leveling?
>>
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is the bambu x1 >> voron a meme? I want to print multiple colors and a bigger bed.
>>
>>2505630
see >>2505037 I told you so

>>2505728
>>2505644
Recommended upgrades for a Ender3v2:
0. Check for wrapped parts - bed / plate / z lead screw, and get those replaced ASAP like seriously
1. All metal extruder instead of the plastic one. Capricorn PTFE tube (idk if this one is a meme or not) instead of stock.
2. Yellow springs or silicon pads instead of the stock ones
3. A better bed - PEI sheets or plain glass
4. BL/CRtouch (its a bitch to setup though)
5. Filament runout sensor (people seem to like it)
6. Filament drier (Filament thats wet ruins prints, learnt that the hard way)
7. Enclosure if you want to print ABS +
8. A few spare nozzles
9. Upgrade the UI on the display and the firmware on the printer to enable all sorts of shit like multipoint manual bed level, turn off power loss recovery etc.
10.Klipper (if you have the time and money for it)

>>2505808
Only because "Assembly not required"
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>>2505811
it was only up for less than a day
>>
>>2505814
too late too late will be the cry when the man with the offers has passed you by
>>
>>2505803
Not really, I'm gently "bending" the flexible sheet into a U shape by holding onto the two tabs on the front edge.
Then after removing the print, I place the sheet back by holding it with one hand, and using the other hand to align the far edge of the sheet with the end of the metal plate, then lower the front of the sheet down gently. This way the sheet is properly aligned with the metal plate.

Finally, I wipe the surface down with a tissue, maybe add a bit of alcohol to it before I do, which should also eliminate any bit of air trapped beneath the sheet.
Even though I do it like this, the mesh won't remain unchanged (even with a tilting step in the start code) and my nozzle ends up scraping the surface at certain points.

I used to have a glass surface before the switch, should I have done something to the bed leveling springs once I switched to the magnetic? Tighten all four of them all the way? Maybe they are the source of the inconsistency?
>>
>>2502394
>>2502409
I kinda disagree with the large printers. Large printers need to pull the model slower to allow damaging the FEP, so what you gain in build volume doesn't really translate to speed.

Imo the only point of large ones is that you can print large models in one piece.

Just get more smaller ones, 8-9 inches is the sweet spot, money wise it might be even cheaper.

If you dial in your prints so that no gunk ends up cured on your FEP, you can basically print continuously with no downtime without any problems.
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>>2502267
animal calls
tackle box organizers
lure/tie stands (anything that helps you tie)
nice plastic knot chart
loop and needle for fish line (rope thru gills)
bait containers, easy open breathe no mess
anything that would assist hauling deer, so like handles that would lock on the legs
trail cam mounts (cam to strap interface)
targets
gun rack
fishing pole rack
open carry car/truck holster
custom go pro mounts
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is there a way to get these smoother? It's 0.28mm layers for speedy print and everything else is good or easy fix (e.g. I'll raft to fix elephant foot). Cura slicer. Verification not required.
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>>2505811
Different anon, between the BL Touch and CR Touch, which is the preferred option? I hear the CR touch is a bit more accurate and due to the metal probe it lasts longer but I also heard it has firmware issues.
>>
>>2505861
The genuine Antclabs BLTouch is more accurate than the CR Touch but honestly, both are more than good enough. Even the aliexpress knockoffs are good enough.
>>
>>2505858
What printer is it? What firmware?
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>>2505877
BLTouch sensors branded "Creality" are still Antclabs right? Like in pic related you can see
the name right on the circuitboard. Sorry if this is incredibly noobish.
>>
>>2505900
Yes, those are genuine.

Functionally, the differences are very marginal btw. The CR-Touch may be more durable due to the metal pin.
>>
>>2505908
Thank you anon. I'll go with the BL Touch for now then. Just trying not to stumble through any of this.
>>
I dont have room for a 3d printer but I would like to have some designs printed. I live in the Us east coast. Any good options?
>>
>>2505928
You have no excuse now.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Mini-3D-Printer/dp/B07T44GTNQ
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Calibration-Assembled-Preloaded-Printable/dp/B07CJQ3D6L/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3QTKU25TCW1Q7&keywords=monoprice+mini+delta&qid=1668884704&sprefix=monoprice+mini%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-3
>>
>>2505887
monoprice mini delta V2
44.161.3
I think it's monoprice firmware but I can only find updates from v40 to v41.
>>
>>2505908
>Functionally, the differences are very marginal btw.

well yes, but also no
The CR touch uses an optical sensor to tell when the pin starts being pushed up by the bed, whereas the BL Touch uses an electromagnetic sensor.
This is why if you look at firmware like Marlin, there are a ton of extra features that can be enabled that focus on deactivating certain components during the moments when the Z axis is being lowered on a probe point, since disabling the heatbed and fans for those few seconds might reduce the amount of electromagnetic interference the BL Touch sensor is affected by. The CR Touch doesn't give a fuck about any of that, it's an optical sensor.

The CR Touch also seems to play much nicer with faster mesh-probing settings due to it's simple "metal pin interrupts light beam" design.
>>
>>2506020
If the printer were placed near a computer, would the BL touch's electromagnetic sensor interfere with computer functions or vice versa? I imagine its not nearly strong enough to do that nor sensitive enough in turn.
>>
>>2506029
nah, I believe the BL sensor simply detects the magnetic disturbance that happens within itself when the pin moves, it doesn't "put out" a strong field or anything
>>
>>2505994
I was looking for services where I send stl or step files and someone prints it and sends it to me.
>>
>>2505210
I did something similar, since most of the hardware I use will be for my voron printers, I looked at the BOM of what each one uses, and then looked at some projects I planned working on soon to see what additional fasteners. one of the regrets I have is not buying more m4 variety.

Consider button head and countersunk as well.

But socket/button are the more common from the projects I've worked on. There has been one that is calling for countersunk, and not sure if I should just remix the files for button head.
>>
>>2505230
Different anon, The ones I bought from aliexpress came from this store, IDK where you live, but they have free shipping on aliexpress standard shipping after you spend 49.99.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101018969/

I haven't had any problems with them, but then again I never tested them extensively, however my retard strength would have done *something* is they were weak in some fashion.
>>
>>2505644

Okay I am going to give my suggestion based on what this anon said. >>2505811

>4. BL/CRtouch (its a bitch to setup though)
If you end up going with PEI sheet, consider using a inductive probe like this one instead of a bl/cr touch, not moving parts less prone to break, and much cheaper, and the reading accuracy is .005 mm while bl/cr touch is .025-.05
>https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804717462142.html

the difference in the "BX" and "BZ" one is "NO" (normally open) and the other is "NC" (normally closed) which means you may have to invert the trigger output.

However, if you go with a glass bed, go with bl/cr touch. If you happen to have components to build this, then I would suggest this.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290

5. Filament runout sensor (people seem to like it)
If you happen to go with this, you can either build a optical filament jam/runout sensor or buy one.

optical sensor will inform you if either there is a jam or filament is out when the slotted disc stops spinning.

While the other runout sensor that everyone and their grandma uses is just a mechanical switch that wont cause print to pause if there's a jam.
>>
>>2505808
The Bambu x1 is tuned out of the box and the AMX or whatever apparently works fairly well. The voron has no first party solution for MMU at all and the team has no plans for one. The closest thing is the enraged rabbit feeder, which was developed by a guy, for his own voron, who's now part of the their team but afaik it's stopped development. It's basically the same thing as the prusa MMU from what I understand. The voron is focused on 1) looking cool 2) fast printing. It's not friendly to beginners and a lot of people have problems getting the belt tensions right because it has so many, including on the Z-axis. The trident is friendlier but still focused on those two and has some weird design decisions imo, like the GE5C bearings instead of committing to a kinematic coupling and the Z-axis motors with integrated lead screws.
>>
>>2506075
the runout sensor designs use a wheel pushed against the filament? i have a pulley-mount and pulley already on my printer to keep the filament from scratching against my metal extruder, could likely modify one side of the pulley to be a motion detector
>>
If Voron 3d printed parts are $130ish, why shouldn't I buy a sale Ender 3 for that price and print them myself plus have a spare printer?

Second, what is the best material for Voron 3d printed parts, and what is the best material for this assuming printed on an ender 3

My existing printer is a modded Monoprice Mini Select from 2016 and I don't trust it to print anything but PLA. But, it has an e3d v6 I can at least salvage in a Voron build.

Thanks fellow nerds
>>
>>2506149
For example, ender 3 kit for under $100
>>
>>2506051
Oh, well one of us can do that for you! I call dibs.
>>
>>2506149
Well, you'll definitely want to print them out of ABS or ASA, and that can sometimes be challenging to do on an open printer without a lot of fighting with the warping. Kind of a chicken vs. egg dilemma at that point, since a Voron is the ideal printer for printing Voron parts
>>
>>2506134
Pulley system? Sounds interesting, do you have a link to the setup?

This is what I am using
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4445504

the slotted disc needs to be a dark color for the optical sensor to work, this is the sensor I used that has a schmitt trigger (lm393) for better reading.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W5KWFV6
>>
>>2506212
I'm using this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4683505
The pulley itself prints in two halves, making one wider and giving it slots would do the trick. I'd pulse the IR LED and detect it with an IR receiver (those things demodulate on-off-keying at 40kHz or so) so I wouldn't have to worry about ambient light, or filament colour so long as it's fully opaque.

Note that the pulley bracket cracked when I pushed it onto my printer's frame, should be given a tad more room, or maybe a compliant mechanism.
>>
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>>2506149
>wanting to print ABS on ender 3

Aight, this is what you do.

>budget


Buy a chimera all metal heatbreak

https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Thermal-Chimera-Cyclops-Printer/dp/B07JD2S4GK

or

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801835768972.html

Disassemble your hotend, remove that piece of shit sorry excuse of a heatbreak, replace with all metal

Now your hotend can go up to 250 without PTFE causing headaches.

Enclosure

Cardboard box, go find a big enough cardboard box to cover your printer.

Move the power supply outside of the enclosure though. You will need to ground the power supply to the frame still, the two mount holes from earlier you can put ring connector on those two, and then find a bare metal that you can secure it to. I picked the two bolts that hold the lcd.

>pic related

Is what I did, since I didn't need to be fancy for it.
>>
>>2506258
>>2506258
>>2506258
>>2506258
>>2506258
>>
>>2505728
He didn't fly so good
>>
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Anyone know which printer this is?
>>
>>2505244
Do not listen to >>2505292, Zach Freedman is based, and invented the gridfinity system
>>
>>2506162
>>2506233
Thanks anon I'll tag you in my voron build screenshot if I can get this shitty $85 emder 3 to print all the voron parts
>>
>>2506392

After the mods I mentioned earlier, whenever you do start printing ABS check out this mod,
https://github.com/kevinakasam/BeltDrivenEnder3

Its a z belt mod so the gantry on both ends is always in sync, if you source hardware correctly it costs 30 dollars total for the mod.
>>
>>2506355
He's a faggit that flaps his hands like a meth addict while he does his fast talking meme shit.
>>
>>2503570
that is what im printing. the AWCY scorpion gun.
>>
>>2506329
photon M3
>>
>>2503308
>printer that literally shits
can't wait. mine coming early december. how is it?
>>
>>2506413
>Its a z belt mod so the gantry on both ends is always in sync,

who gives a shit, if it's 10 degrees tilted and the bed is 10 degrees tilted then it's fine. The gantry starts at the bed and goes in one direction. if it triggers ur autism then it's a different issue, but it's already a bottom feeder printer so why bother when your building a voron anway?
>>
>>2504147
I bought the AMS with it, can do up to 4 color
>>
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can somebody explain to me what is the best, cheapest hot end upgrade I can get for my original Ender 3?

I have already gotten a SKR Mini E3 V3 and a MKS Pi to convert the printer to run Klipper (still waiting on them tho). I will also do input shaping with the ADXL345.

Will pic related work for printing faster with a 0.4 or a 0.6 mm nozzle? I imagine I need to print some adapter bracket or whatever in order to get it to mount on the X axis carriage?
>>
>>2507487
they all pretty standard depending on filament sizes just match up screw types worse case you will need cold end that fits the rest
>>
>>2505861
CR touch also has different offset depth.
>>
>>2503471
If you want one, buy one and use it to make you more money. EZ
>>
>>2502720
>Why the fuck do people use ABS again?
Cheap. Prints fast. I have a well insulated printer with a large bed surface. I also have a hotend that isn't constantly blowing air onto the part.
>>
>>2507964
that makes me think i should atleast reverse my heatsink fan (always on) so its sucking up the warm nozzle/buildplate heat instead of giving everything a shocking cold blowjob
>>
>>2508085
I went full on lazy and modified the voron toolhead to work bowden on a cr10 with my dragonfly.
It's surprisingly good in so long as I keep the silicone sock on.



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