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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: BeFunky-collage (1).jpg (1.65 MB, 3264x3264)
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Last Thread: >>2465296

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://printables.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
Fpbp
>>
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Three of my prints got mentioned in ops pic, shower venus, flexi rexi and slug.
Is this a record? What do i get?
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>>2469086
You get to install a CAD program finally, you filthy downloader (but not bl*nder, or we'll call you a troon).
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>>2469088
Fuck's wrong with Blender?
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>>2469089
It's for faggot types (unemployed artists, unemployed game model designers, and general useless eaters).
Parametric modeling will put hair on your balls.
>>
>>2469091
So what, just use Rhino, Fusion360, or FreeCAD?
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>>2469093
Tinkercad also seems like a good contender in the free category, and it works right from your browser. I use Solidworks since that's what my employers tend to use, and it's nice to be able to take my work home.
One main thing is to learn the ins and outs of going back and forth between a CAD programs native file format, to .stp/STEP format (universal parametric solid), to .stl (stereo lithography wire frame shit for plebs). Each file type has its own levels of being able to be edited, and it's important to understand the uses. Another good one to know is .dxf format, which is basically just a 2d file, comes in handy when handing shit off to graphic designers and people that do laser cutting. If you mention .dxf to those types of people, your odds of getting dicked on price go down like 90%.
>>
>>2469095
I've already tried importing and editing .step and .stl files in FreeCAD, and I might as well save time, and kill myself.
The limitations of what you can edit once you import something as just a bunch of triangles you have to clean up- I might as well just redraw the entire part.
Probably time to just man up and learn Solidworks and MasterCAM, so I can do CNC stuff too.
>>
>>2469096
Editing .stl files is absolute shit, avoid it unless you absolutely have to. Ideally you import a .stp and then you can cut and extrude all you want on that, but the program may or may not convert it to it's native file format first (.sldprt in SW, for example). Then once you are done editing, convert to .stl and send to your slicer.
This is why including a .stp with every .stl is the bro tier way of uploading your designs.
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>>2469098
Not the same guy but would you recommend I learn to use FreeCAD (or some other CAD software) myself or should I just hire someone and give them the dimensions?
I'm trying to make a some very basic components out of aluminum.
One is a single housing for some sensitive electronics with no moving parts and the other is the same thing but with a hinge assembly similar to a laptop.
>>
>>2469102
You could totally design it yourself, just pick a program and look for some tutorials on YouTube to get started. All parametric CAD programs have basically the same functionality, you just have to relearn the UI a bit when you jump between them.
A case is easy, just extrude the outer dimension, extrude cut the internal pocket, add any standoffs and fastening features, then repeat for the other half or the lid. Just remember that internal corners will have to have a radius if you are milling it (generally bigger radius = cheaper to make).
Whoever you give the file to may have to make some final modifications to make it manufacturable, but that's their fucking job so don't let them charge you an arm and a leg for something that is extremely quick and easy for them to do. If anything, just having a general dimensioned idea of what you want makes it much easier for them than the typical boomer giving hand signals for length, width, and height.
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>>2469102
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP1rv37BojTd5NY3E_aqOWUe0uA8J-J1T
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>>2469104
>>2469108
Alright sweet I'll give that a shot and (hopefully) come back with some results soon as I can.
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>>2469102
Fusion360. just have to get passed the stupid 10 rw document limit.
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>>2469088
>>2469091
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Any idea what the problem could be ? It ran perfect for 9 hours and 30 min, and in the last 5 min, it failed.
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>>2469214
plugged tip
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>>2469218
Anyway to stop or at least lessen the chances that it will happen?

Also, to repair the model, I can just use some kind of potty I suppose?
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>>2469214
cloged hotend, heat accumulated in the filament because the throughput on the ears is lower
>how to fix
reassemble the hotend properly
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>>2469221
>Anyway to stop or at least lessen the chances that it will happen?
Yes.

You can turn up the movement speed so that the effective flow rate is higher.
Try decreasing your retraction settings.
You can make sure that your hotend is properly assembled (specifically ensure that if you have a bowden ptfe tube setup that the tube is completely inserted down into the hot end with no play)
Make sure that your fans and heat sink are clean and dust free.

You could also consider printing a mod to get better cooling on the heat sink, or upgrade the cooling fan or shroud to accomplish the same thing.

From what I understand, although the hot bottom part of the hotend keeps filament molten and fluid regardless of extrusion rate, at low extrusion rates more and more heat will creep up past the heat brake up to the cooler upper part of the hotend. This can cause melting, adhesion, and clogging.

Try searching about the term "heat creep" and you'll find a lot of helpful advice
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>>2469221
Nozzles are consumables. After a few hundred hours, give or take depending on filament type, they'll wear out. You just got to replace them. After you print so much You'll notice when a nozzle is getting near end of life and can replace it preemptively or keep track of how many hours you have on your nozzle and swap in every x hours. I'll put in a fresh nozzle before a big print if the current one has a lot of hours on it. They're like 20 to 30 cents. No reason not to.
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>>2469234
>From what I understand,
the nozzle has a 1.8mm hole and the bowden has a 1.9 or 2mm hole. If the PLA gets >50° soft in the bowden it enlarges to those 2mm. The extruder simply doesnt have the force to push that semi malable mass through a smaller hole
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>>2469093
OpenSCAD or youir gay lol
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>>2469228
>>2469234
>>2469236
Thanks, I'm reprinting my small Bulbasaur so I can see if the problem reoccur. Found a video about removing the two stainless screws in the heatsink because it connect to the filament hose and seem to boost heat creep, I'll try that. Does Aluminium foil help too?
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>>2469260
Had another throughput problem when it came to the ears more severe than last time.
I increased by about 20% the speed, downed the temp to 195 from 200 and infill to 40%, also removed the two screws from the heat sink.
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>>2469091
very based post
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>>2469275
exact same place and I'd start thinking model problem in the .stl file.
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>>2469315
It happen right when it arrives at the top of the ears. Probably form a clog there, and then it affect the couple of layers after that.
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>>2469318
Have you tuned your retraction settings? Less is more, speed matters, etc etc

What you're describing and showing here could be caused by poorly tuned or otherwise overly aggressive retraction.
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>>2469334
I did not touch retraction yet. Here are the current settings being printed.
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>>2469071
is the anon who printed that fox/jackal mask in the bottom left here and is it a free model
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>>2469336
Yeah your retraction settings look pretty shit. Those look like very conservative settings that might work "ok" on a really old shit printer with a huge long bowden tube.

The distance is probably excessive, but it's something that needs to be tuned for your specific printed. Bowden extruders, anywhere from 1mm up to as high as 10mm isn't weird, but for most "normal" printers that don't have HUGE bowden tubes, I'd expect <= 4mm of retraction distance. With direct-drive, <1mm isn't unusual, my direct-drive Ender 3 runs 0.6mm retraction.

That speed is very slow too. Retract and Prime speed, I run 50mm/s and 40mm/s respectively with my Ender 3. Similar 40/40 on my CR-10, 60/50 on my direct-drive Ender 3.

This is something you'll need to tune for, there are no magic numbers.
Avoid ever using "Retraction Extra Prime Amount," it's a big fat bandaid for special cases that people often over-use to cover up their bad retraction tuning.
Highly recommend Z-Hop, 0.2mm of Z-Hop with a 0.4mm nozzle is usually PLENTY and can prevent all sorts of issues. When pursuing MAXIMUM quality out of a printer though, folks often go without it.

The Retraction Distance and Retraction Speed are the most important factors.
If I were you, I'd drop distance to 4mm, and set Retract and Prime speeds both to 40mm/s.
It'd be a good place to start from, but you'll still need to tune it yourself.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction
That site won't just teach you how to calibrate, it'll hold your hand and make the process fairly painless.
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>>2469336
That excessive and slow retraction can absolutely lead to clogs or periodic underextrusion.
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>>2469350
there is a pretty easy no guess way to get the retraction right.
with the nozzle cold, remove the tension from the extruder and push the filament in as hard as you can, then do a pen mark. Now pull on it and do a second mark.
The distance between those marks is the bowden play in the system and doesnt change unless one cuts the tube short.
Now you add 0.5 to 1 mm to these for actuall retraction at the nozzle, thats the fine tuning.

Doing it a couple times one will see even 4mm is too much for a relative short tube on an ender
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>>2469372
Neat trick, that's a nice way to ballpark it.
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>>2469352
60mm/s always seems to work best for me (with DD), what do you usually set it at?
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>>2469378
With my DD, 60 retract, 50 prime.
>>
On my Ender 3 Pro with Biqu H2 I do 0.5mm retractions, 50mms retraction/deretraction speed. Works perfect with zero precum.
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>fucks up print by breaking it removing it from build plate then taking off supports
classic
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>>2469568
>doesn't have a flex plate or good support settings
you asked for it
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>>2469568
I love 3d printing, but I hate filling up my house with 3d printed shit, so that would be the ideal scenario for me. As of now I have to resort to printing bugman stuff so that my libtard friends will take it off my hands.
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>>2469595
dafuq is "bugman stuff"
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Finally, after like 20 prints, I got my true real 99% great print. No major failure. I'm happy. Changed the retraction a little bit and it worked. Dont know if it's the model itself, but I'm just happy that it works now.

Technically, I printed a 75%, 50% and 25 % at the same time and the 50 and 25 came out great too, while the 75% had the same problem as the others.But I'm happy that the non low poly one looks great.
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>>2469605
Your printer is not liking the hop between the head and ears. If changing retraction settings helped I'd look at the extruder then the tube and hotend.
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>>2469618
You think it's too low? I will try another low poly tomorrow and see if the setting change helped for that one too. No idea why it didnt do it for the 50% version though.
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>>2469620
I think your extruder is slipping on the filament.
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>>2469624
Like it's too tight on it? But why is it just doing it at the jumps? Also, I did the Retraction test, and it worked perfect.
>>
Brand loyalty aside, is the SL1S worth the massive expense over the Photon? I’m interested in getting my hands on a resin printer to make racing-grade RC car parts but have zero experience with resin machines. I have a Mk3S now, hence the brand loyalty.
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>>2469626
Too lose. Like it retracts 10mm, hops to an ear, tries to feed 10mm but slips 2 of those, extrudes nothing, retracts another 10, feeds 9, extrudes almost nothing, retracts again, and eventually catches up on the body extruding the last part. Either that or you got some junk in the nozzle that is sometimes blocking flow getting moved around on retarctions.
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>>2469629
I'll check it out. I used some kind of wood infused PLA to try it out, and it's kinda fibery, so I should remove the nozzle and do a deep clean? But all my layers are good otherwise.
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>>2469630
Yep. It's the intermittent problems that suck the most.

>>2469628
I've heard lots of good things about Anycube but never owned either of those so can't say. I'd never pay the near 5 to 10x markup for the Prusa name and don't believe the internals are that different between them.
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>>2469597
Found the pop culture enjoyer.
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Reworked my fpv cam mount design to fit a bigger lens with more fisheye effect.
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Imagine actually allowing a resin printer to be in your house...
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>>2469677
How do you get that good of a print with fdm?
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First multipart print since I got my printer last week. I boolean'd out a cavity in the body and added a pause to the print so I could fill it with baking beans in hopes of giving it some stability. Turns out they weren't really heavy enough to do much, but it is just about stable. The pause and resume left a very visible layer line though.
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>>2469605
using jew star infill NGMI
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>>2469684
ABS at .1mm layer height. The layers are so thin that each new layer remelts the one beneath it a bit so you end up with a really smooth surface finish. That, and I went super autismo on tuning my Voron.
I kinda want to see if I can vapor smooth that print, but it might just melt as soon as the smoothing sets in since it's so thin.
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>>2469686
You call that a goose? This, is a goooose.
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>>2469692
Something doesn't look quite right but I don't know enough about geese to say what.

That looks really smooth though. Did you use a glossy filament or something to treat it after?
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>>2469693
It's ABS that's been vapor smoothed with acetone in this chamber I threw together for $10.
>>
One of the reasons I got a 3D printer was for board game inserts and game aids. Started off with a simple free model to create a bland but functional piece for Wingspan. Going to move on to some Twilight Imperium designs next, I have some ideas for how to make more efficient use of our limited table space, and improve readability across it. Objective tracker, strategy card stands, fleet stands and more.
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>>2469707
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just printed this for the thread
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>>2469710
>And the frogs shall come up on you, on your people, and on all your servants.
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>>2469597
Adult hobbies that people obsess over like children.
Best example would be superhero movies.
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>>2469096
Yep, learn Solidworks. I started learning parametric modeling a few months ago and the best thing I did for my sanity was move from freecad to solidworks. The amount of small things solidworks just does for you is amazing... with freecad it's like pulling teeth to do basic shit. The concept of shapebinders can lick my balls.
In the 2022 version of solidworks you can slice an stl on multiple planes.
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>>2469605
>I'm happy
jfc anon I'm glad, ngl kinda want to kms seeing that lineup.
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>>2469667
you mow your lawn with that dirty boy?
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>>2469686
>baking beans
you fucking what?

so make an anus next time just larger than steel ball bearings into the cavity. fill post print. print sphincter plug. alternatively you could use one of the legs to do a small hole and use bbs (for a bb gun = small copper spheres) and then a plug then foot.

also fucking love the knife stand, meme/10
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>>2469710
frog model? nice for no support
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>>2469708
you should post in >>>/tg/bgg they love birbspam game. I've been donking out 51st state.
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>>2469841
I used them to find issues. Printed another High def Bulba and he looked perfect too. So I think the low poly Bulba was the problem? I printed a card box and it looks great too.
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What's this a symptom of other than stupidity?
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>>2469889
Symptom of having a sock installed. No sock = no problem.
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DoomGuy has survived the Acetone Hell difficulty level.
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>>2469093
Sure why not? I mean I use

>freecad
>tinkercad
>openscad

Tinkercad for basic remixes

freeCAD for actual modelilng or the user on thingiverse provided the .step file or FCstd file.

openscad admittedly I haven't programmed, just used for parametric
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>>2469093
OpenSCAD is unironically the comfiest for one off prints and throw simple shit together real quick, I suggest you give it a try
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>>2469693
It's got the optional all-wheel drive package installed.
>>
>is this printer the new ender 3 v2 killer??????
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>>2470155
What would a printer made by the Onions guys look like?
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>>2470188
*S.oylent, that should have at least autocorrected to OnionsLent (fucking low effort jannies)
>>
>>2469846
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2067507/files
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How do I increase polygon count? My sphere looks like a N64 model. I'm using solidworks
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>>2470245
There should be a quality option somewhere when you save as .stl, and if it's not there, then it's definitely in there somewhere. Just remember, people get all butthurt if they have to download a 100mb file for some reason (it's because they are third world).
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>>2469699
I like your gas chamber.
>>
What are you guys opinions on making hot glue parts by 3d printing the 2 part negative cavity moulds?
For example using a negative mold and flowing in hot glue to create large numbers of this figurine >>2469677
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>>2470245
There's an Options button that appears below the dropdown when you select .STL in the Save As window. The option you're looking for is Resolution, try increasing it.
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>>2469889
PTFE tube not flush with nozzle like always
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>>2469693
>I don't know enough about geese to say what
it's glossy. geese aren't glossy.
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>>2470288
youre supposed to smear the hotglue onto the figurine
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Any reason why my first 2-3 layers cant stick to the bed? The infill is great, but the walls and skirt come off and it create filament stuck or blobs.
Should my bed be hotter? It's at 60 with PLA.
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>>2470442
Lower your Z-offset. Gotta get that squish against the bed. And lower speeds, I print the first layer at 8-16mm/s.
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>>2470442
I print PLA on a cold bed. try glue stick, it's honestly pretty fucking amazing
>>
So, for (big) cosplay parts I am considering an Ender 5 plus.

Is it good? Going from an Ender 3 pro, which I am satisfied with.
>>
is there any reason to only use a small length of ptfe tube where the filament goes into my direct driver extruder instead of just having a long length that goes up to the spool?
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>>2470471
I've had one for a while now, I kind of like it but also had a lot of issues with mine, but worked through them.

Good:
Size for the price
Decent frame
Kind of slow, doesn't really not like high acceleration or fast speed moves.

Bad:
8-bit non silent driver mainboard is shit.
Z-screws keep going out of sync.
Non-open source display, makes upgrading marlin more complex.
Plastic extruder is fucking shit and will break. Metal extruder is a must have upgrade.
Stock hotend is not all metal, so u can't peint PETG/ABS/ASA with it in a safe way.

Get it if you can find it for a discount and willikg to fork out some money for upgrades. If you buy a new mainboard get one with 6 drivers so you can have individual z-stepper drivers. Might need to upgrade the display too for that.
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>>2470484
>Z-screws keep going out of sync.

on my cr-10s pro there is a popular mod called "z-sync belt mod" you basically put pulleys at the top of the lead screws with a belt.

You can try something similar, but put the pulley at the bottom of the lead screw, if you Z your bed to max travel, is there space under it to run a belt across without getting hit by the bed at max z travel?

Only downside I am seeing is belt tension, you can probably run another pulley on the extrusion next to one of the stepper pull it down the extrusion rail to get the right tension then tighten it down.

Actually just decided to do a quick google search and found this, so it seems possible.
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5174679
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>>2470484
>Stock hotend is not all metal, so u can't peint PETG/ABS/ASA with it in a safe way.

Oh forgot to add, take a look at chimera titanium alloy heatbreak, if that ender 5 uses that red hotend on a ender 3, you can add that an now have a all metal hotend,
>https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Thermal-Chimera-Cyclops-Printer/dp/B07JD2S4GK

Aliexpress its 8 dollars for 2, but its 3.61 shipping for me, that could vary.

But I bought a v6 hotend for 20 dollars so I guess it comes down to if you want to save the ~8USD.
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>>2470484
Add another z home switch so the printer can self sync the steppers.
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>>2470261
It doesn't seal very well though, so I have to hold the door on with some weight, and let it do it's thing far away outside where the fumes won't get me.
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>>2470424
>He's never glossed his goose
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>>2470572
Damn, wish I would have known. I just printed all parts for the manta mk2 to hold the Dragon HF.

>>2470577
>>2470566
No need, E5P comes with a bl touch as standard, forgot to add that in the list of good actually. What you need is a mainboard with two z-stepper drivers and you're good.
>>
I'm printing my first connected build ( a snek) and 4 hours in the build, I had a power outage. The resume worked pretty well, but a blob of filament came out while it was heating the element and it knocked 3 section of the snek. But they stayed connected. I tried to place them and now they seem to have stopped moving at least. It wont be pretty, but it works
>>
What's a good non-planar slicer I need to print something with ripples and I don't want it to look like shit
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I printed this black shroud thing for my feed grinder so crumbs don't go all over the place
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>>2470659
Nice. Love when people model or print usable things and not toys.
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Here is my functional print. A cap that goes on top of a vacuum robots cliff sensor.
My Dreame F9 suddenly stopped and went backwards from time to time. Recently he stopped working because he did nothing else. I figured the cliff sensor was dirty and cleaned it, but there was no difference. I looked into it with a camera and saw that at least the IR emitter was working.
Went online and someone suggested to use a strip of white paper to simulate the ground (my carpet is dark), that worked, the vacuum did it's thing.
Found this model at Thingieverse, now that i knew what to search for. All Xiaumi (Dreame is a brand that belongs to them) use the same cliff sensors. You have to scale it between 98% to 102% to get a tight fit.
Anyway, disabled all 4 sensors and glued the caps in place.
I wonder how many robots get thrown away because their IR emitters get weaker with time.
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>>2470671
Better pic.
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>>2470671
spent how long printing these out? bottle of white out takes about 5 seconds, scratch it off later if you need to.
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>>2470701
Painting white doesn't do the trick, reflected IR light needs to be able to reach the other half of the sensor.
See that black divider in the middle?
The cap needs to leave a few mm room.
>>
>>2470442
>>2470469
I'm going to reiterate what this anon said with a couple caveats.
I exclusively print PLA. I use a glass bed, heated to 50°, and put down a layer of glue with a glue stick. No issues with bed adhesion at all. Maybe the heated bed is unnecessary, but it certainly doesn't hurt.
My extruder temp is 200° to 210°
>>
>>2470701
bitch this is 3dpg we print our bottles, fill them with bulk white out and then print a cap that interference fits an old mini paint brush.
>>
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>>2470656
The snek survived!
Only bad thing is that two of the segment that moved fused together and wont move. But I can live with that.
>>
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Is it good to mix a bunch of prints together if you want to have the same color for them?
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Who is the Matthias Wandel of 3dp?

It seems like every 3d printing youtuber is a midwit. Who is the genius?
>>
the comgrow Ender 3 V2s are on sale on amazon for $197 today if anyone was thinking of grabbing a backup or growing their collection
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B07FFTHMMN
microcenter has had them discounted this low for a while but I think this is the first time it's this low on amazon?
>>
>>2470903
Yes? As long as your retraction is dialed in and you don't get stringing or blobs
>>
>>2470903
Yes, as long as your hotend doesn't get heat soaked and jam up after a specific number of hours (every damn time!). You get a bit of stringing, but also get consistent first layer between all parts, fewer print starts, and you can just set it and walk away.
Also, doing layer color changes will apply across all parts, so you can get some cool effects from that.
>>
>>2470904
That Angus guy seems like he knows what he's talking about. But I'm also a retard, so he could just be slightly less retarded than me and seem like a genius in comparison.
>>
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>>2470915
>>2470911
One of the pieces stringed. I put a layer of glue stick and even when I tried to remove it and hope for the best in Layer 2, nope. It blobbed in the air. Now it looks pretty okay. Not perfect, but should be good after 2-3 layers.
>>
Is there a force calculator for 3d printed springs? Or anything to reference
>>
>>2470904
CNCKitchen
>>
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so I made this object in blender (I know), and you can see it in cura on the left, but when I preview the slice there are chunks of it just missing and I don't know why, any ideas?
>>
>>2471049
looks like it's not solid (manifold), run it through netfabb or fix your shit (multiple shells)
>>
>>2470974
Oh, that's bad bed adhesion. To prevent that, you need to clean your plate and maybe use some sort of bed adhesion promoter like glue stick, hair spray, or one of the commercial options for that.
Stringing is when you get little spider webs between your parts, which is annoying, but can be pretty easily removed after the print.
>>
>>2471049
Select your object and switch to edit mode. Pick either vertex or edge as this won't work in face mode. Goto Select -> select all by trait -> Non Manifold. Whatever it selects is broken in some way and can not exists in the real world. Normally it's edges not attached to each other or faces pointing the wrong way.
>>
>>2471049
possibly easier solution than >>2471058
in blender, top right, viewport overlays menu, turn on face orientation
make sure the entire object is blue, red surfaces need to be flipped in edit mode, mesh, normals, then either flip or select all verticies and recalculate outside
do this for boolean meshes as well
>>
I need to 3D print a pussy, being a lonely incel is depressing. A 3D pussy will improve my outlook on life tremedously. How do I go about it lads?
>>
>>2471075
Just order one from amazon and you'll be good to go in a few days. Don't be a retard.
>>
>>2471061
even though I have no idea what I just did this worked thank you
>>
>>2471129
lol /3/ magic
faces have an outside and an inside, the normal is a vector that determines which way the face is pointing
slicers use the normal as part of figuring out which side of the face is the inside of the object you're printing
neighboring faces with opposing normals => confused slicer
a lot of things can cause it, extruding, scaling negative, too many booleans, it's pretty a pretty "normal" issue in blender
>>
>>2471134
I did a lot of booleans so that makes sense. I'll have to keep this in mind if I make something in blender again
>>
Just spent 5 hours trying to fix my bed who mysteriously was too high, so I had filament stuck to my magnetic bed and had to scrape and alcool wipe for like 30 min, then trouble shooted for another 3 hours.
I tried a small print and now it just work good.

I have no idea why I did the paper trick and then it still was like 2 mm in the air for no fucking reason when going to print.
>>
>>2471165
guessing z switch acting up or wiring short.
>>
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Just got a resin printer and my part is sagging in one of the corners. How can I fix this? The part is 1mm thick and its just one big flat rectangle.
>>
Alright lads, I got my first spool of TPU. What are some good prints that TPU was made for.
>>
>>2471175
A fleshlight
>>
>>2471175
Cable bending protectors, Flexi Antenna/FPV mounts, doorstops, vibration dampeners, cellphone protective cases, grip sleeves.
>>
>>2471175
Anon, it's time to get into FPV drones. It's the best use of your TPU and time.
>>
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Just finished up the Timberwolf. Tan ABS in .1mm layers, but I retouched the picture a bit to make the details more visible.
>>
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Poopy custard poopy custard
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THIS is the future od 3d printing.
not faggy static machines
the entire planet is your surface.
get with the fucking times you peasants
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDKNEO0gDuE
>>
Are blondes evil?
>>
>>2471254
The future is drones designed by civil engineers building targets for the drones built by mechanical engineers to annihilate. Capitalism wins again, and we created negative job growth at the same time!
>>
What do you do when your current filament is running low?

I'm not sure if there's enough for my next print, using the weight Cura gives me in grams. I thought to weight it but I don't have the weight of the spool to subtract since I didn't think to weight it when it was new.
>>
>>2471314
Fucking hell I think I inhaled too many fumes from the primer.
>>
>>2471248
Where can I get STLs for this and other mechs? No im abso-fucking-lutley not going to pay some greedy cunt $20 for them.
>>
>>2470594
You gotta use a wooden lid
>>
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>>2471335
>>
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I really like my mx master 3, however its not the perfect mouse for me, i need a wall for mb1 so i dont neglegent discharge in tarkov, and i would also like a sloped pinky and wrist rest
I was thinking of replacing the base with a new 3d printed part that has that new wall and slope, but i cant find the 3d model of it and idk what software to use to modify it
>>
>>2470904
paradroid but he doesnt do youtube, says it attracts the retards
>>
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>>2471371
Thank you fren, I googled this yesterday, but kept coming to dead links or some shitty pay site. I was going to actually extract the models from the game myself using the cryengine tool. You saved me a lot of time.
>>
>>2470909
$189 today
>>
>>2471075
I have flexible PLA that's pretty good, only problem is it's blue. Oh and my printer bed is too small for my dick and I'm not even average.
>>
>>2471174
you flatten the bed?

also go ask on >>>/tg/3dpg way more resin guy over there. [spoiler]just lie and say it was a spess maribean[/spoiler]
>>
This devilspawn TPU wont get unstuck from my PEI bed!
>>
>>2470909
>>2471418
I'd never buy an Ender 3 new. You can get used v1's and pros for under $100 on marketplace and craigslist all day long. Not even the super old ones. I'm talking 422's with silent steppers. Throw $50 worth of ali upgrades at it and you'd have a better machine cheaper.
>>
>>2471418
these fucks keep scamming me with their price drops. never fails.
>>
>>2471424
TPU usually needs a little glue stick on PEI to help with the release.
>>
>>2471423

I think these resin printers just don't like being oriented flat. On top of that the resin even when cured was brittle like glass. Not a whole lot of tensile strength. Now I think I might shift towards ABS FDM

Anyone here done any production tier runs? Im making a consumer product for hobbyists. Its a little $70 electronic device and it needs a plastic frame. The resin didn't work out like I thought it would. Expensive, messy, brittle, prone to warping etc. I do have experience with ABS but its slow and you can see layer lines. Maybe do ABS and then acetone vapor smooth the parts? The only other production methods I can think of is resin casting which i rather not do or pay for injection molds which arent cheap.
>>
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I think it turned out pretty good considering it was burried in supports. There is still a bit left in his hand but im scared I'll break his fingers trying to take it off. It was printed in clear petg on a heavily modded ender 3.
>>
>>2471430
This tactic doesn't work on me because I always just assume it will be cheaper, so I never end up buying.
>>
>>2471489
0.1 nozzle?
>>
>>2471492
it was a .4 with a .10 layer height
>>
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>>2471489
Looks good. Will you paint it? I have painted some prints twice, just grey, first coat heavily sanded.

I'm looking for paint that looks a bit more like marble or stone now.

Hoping for something like picrel in the end.
>>
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>>2471552
Or this. At least in terms of color.
>>
>>2471552
no, I like the semi transparent look it has. I dont think you could hand paint something to get a finish like that without an airbrush. maybe dipping it in some kind of resin would work. I think the best thing to do would be to find abs filament in the color you want and vapor smooth it, or us a sla printer.
>>
>>2471564
I really don't like the high gloss ABS gets. And painting it get's rid of the shine, but also of the transparency.
Anyone tried marble like PLA?
>>
>>2471167
But now it print perfect. I tried two small one and they came out really well. Now my magnetic bed is perma stuck with red filament and the right part is now smooth. Not a big deal, they are like 20$
>>
>>2471335
I mean, if you want professionally designed 3D models, you should pay to support them.
>>
does anyone else's black resin print all rubbery?
>>
>>2471564
Hit it with a heat gun for a bit, and it will get more transparent. Just don't go overboard!
>>
>>2471634
Imagine the smell...
>>
>>2471399
Is there a go to tool for dealing with files from a game like that, assuming you can get them extracted in a usable format? I'm competent enough with Solidworks but the support that has for mesh files is terrible.
In a more general sense, is there a recommended tool anyone here uses for dealing with mech/surface models for shit like splitting designs into sections that're actually feasible to print, or would I just be better off recreating shit in parts from the start?
>>
>>2471735
Go to your local starbucks and have one of the baristas/unemployed-game-designers to do it for you for less than minimum wage. That's what most people do in this situation.
>>
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Took advice from here about waiting for the filler primer to fully cure for 24h before sanding.

Now that I've put it on it's showing up some imperfections I think modelling putty might be good for? I've got some AK brand grey putty, just wondering how best to use it. Should I wait for the primer to cure then apply this, or can I apply it earlier? How long should I left the putty set for before sanding?
>>
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>>2471735
good morning fren, hope this will help you
https://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/85411-how-to-create-your-own-art-using-pgis-mechs/
https://youtu.be/aU3HVonFu6U
>>
>>
>>2471825
>>
>>2471825
>>2471826
That's sick.
Have you seen HERA's new model of that though?
>>
>>2471850
Yes, and I really really dont like it, ole one have this nice military 80 futuristic feel, new one looks like from videogame.
This is obviously inspired stock, it'll be an interface piece for mounting on bigger project.
>>
>>2471855
What's the bigger project?
>>
>>2471471
but that's the type of resin not the type of printing. FDM is fine, you do not need ABS first of all, second it's going to scream "3d printed part" where resin is more "this is consumer grade." try different resin with better properties before you trash the printer. or maybe just shake the resin bottle first?
>>
>>2471260
no. talk to any civil engineer or MEP and they will tell you these 3d printed houses are retarded. as a GC why would I hire this company staffed by highly paid individuals with degrees to make a shitty concrete wall that takes days to print when I could pay ten mexicans minimum wage to lay forms and pour a wall in one day?
>>
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How. I start a print, leave after seeing the two first layers, come back, two of the first layers got knocked off, but the print kinda worked fine after that. It blobbed, but then the walls contained the blobs and supports appear inside. But now I need to find a way to glue the bottoms back and a way to articulate the missing articulation.
>>
>>2471965
fix your shit and reprint
>>
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>>2471856
>>
>>2471825
>>2471826
I guess the tranny that always complains about this stuff has finally joined the 41%.
>>
>>2471989
I dont think I know what you're talking about
>>
Proof of concept is moving A-OK
>>
>>2471995
There's some dork that always goes full janny when gun stuff gets posted. He says it's "against the rules", whatever that means.
>>
>>2471989
trans people are more likely to be interested in firearms than your average person
>>
>>2471996
Are you going to incorporate that into an actual clock?
>>
>>2471999
Suicidal ideation is not the same thing.
>>
>>2472001
That is the mostly complete motion train, but there are some pieces missing. Eventually yes I'm going to make it out of brass but the first step is prototyping.
>>
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Been fucking around with a clamp on cupholder for my mahjong table, got a first set of them that fit perfectly, just messing around with a new iteration of the cupholder itself that slides in and locks onto the clamp so you can keep your phone visible and chargeable
Probably going to make a third iteration and have it be modular so you can slide in a cover on the front of the cupholder that has the locks for the phone mount instead of it just being a solid piece
>>
>>2472073
Looks nice
room doko
>>
>>2471996
update: I have fucked up my gear ratios and have produced a 24hr clock instead of a 12hr clock
dang
>>
>>2471917
I shook the bottle of resin. I could use a different type of resin but the big problem is that the resin is expensive and the parts are going to take about just as long to print. The resin parts are flat and they don't like to be oriented flat or they warp so bad they are unusable.

With the ABS material the cost can be about $15Kg rather than close to $30Kg + all the added waste from supports. The resin is also highly toxic and needs some additional post processing in the form of washing and curing and the washing costs money.

With FDM I can buy 10 printers and a pallet of filament and they can run while I sleep. The ABS can be post processed in large batches with vapor smoothing im assuming as well. Ideally I would like to print what I need to see if theres a market and if there is then I can have molds built piece by piece until I don't need to print anything else.

The item is supposed to just sit on your desk a couple feet away from you and it holds a screen so the focus shouldn't be on the plastic finish, so im hoping the vapor smoothing is enough to give it a "good enough" finish.
>>
>>2472094
I never liked the 12 hour system. Good for you for taking a stand on this.
>>
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Look, it's everyone's favorite space Nazi!
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>>2472094
just run it twice as fast
>>
>>2469684
Wait, you retards consider this a "good" print? What the hell is the point of this thread lmao
>>
>>2472369
If you want "good" prints, then head over to the /3dcg/ printing thread. This is the special ed printing thread, and we like it that way.
>>
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Here's some shit I need to finish post processing.
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>>2472369
were the FDM retard containment thread

>>2472372
tg 3dpg is bretty gud too
>>
>>2472375
>tg 3dpg is bretty gud too
Got a link?
>>
>>2472369
At that size, it's good. The resin fumes must be getting to you.xxhxr
>>
>>2472383
I print FDM and resin, there's nothing good about that print, you would have saved a lot of time mushing up some silly putty and making the same thing.
>>
>>2471784
Thanks anon!
Never played mech warrior so I've been looking to do the same sorta deal with some other games, but the later part of that video was definitely useful. I'm at least familiar with blender, but i'd never heard of the netfabb tool, so it's useful to see the whole workflow for getting something printable.
>>
>>2472383
Okay, looking at it closer, it's not awful, and the hand looks pretty damn good. Still overall doesn't look like much though.
>>
>>2472390
Ok anon, let's see your print. Also keep in mind that it didn't even take it's final form until here: >>2469972
>>
>>2472392
See>>2472373
>>
>>2472392
and I wouldn't try to print anything that small in FDM. I tried and failed many times, use the right tool for the job my nog.
>>
>>2472396
Yeah, I know, but I I'm not ready for that resin lifestyle. I do like the whole "only Z height affects print time thing though", seems like it would open up some interesting process strategies, which is what I enjoy so much about 3d printing anyways.
If women go 3 more years without renouncing leftism en masse, then I will consider getting one.
>>
>>2472402
Honestly, I fucking hate working with resin. It makes a mess, it's a bitch to clean, it's a bitch to peel shit off the bottom of the vat, strain the resin, shake it up, repour it, then if the print comes out good rinse it, rinse it in alcohol, cure it... it fucking sucks to be honest, but you can't beat the results for detailed shit. I've done some mixed prints where I'll print a large figure in FDM but then detailed parts like the head I'll do in resin. I sell my shit on Etsy, so it's almost worth all the effort. I'm only a couple hundred away from breaking even on my printers and the materials.
>>
>>2472407
How much do you have to worry about selling someone else's design on eBay or elsewhere? It that considered fair use to basically charge people the time and materials to produce a free print design? Or are those your own designs (they don't look familiar)?
>>
>>2472415
I sell my own original miniatures based off Stalker mutants, and I have a resculpt of an alien from another popular shooter that I cleaned up and sell a lot of. If you don't mind being a scumfuck, I don't think anyone is going to notice you selling stolen designs on eBay, but I did get a guy banned of Cults because he had 400 uploads of straight ripped models from games he was selling.
>>
>>2472419
why narc?
>>
>>2472423
Because the guy was making money doing literally nothing. He was downloading models from the same Russian game rip site I use, but I actually fix the models. This guy was selling them as-is for a ridiculous amount, flooding the store, and just generally being a jew and cutting into honest people's earnings. Also I don't sell STLs for the reason that people can steal and resell them, I print my own shit.
>>
>>2472423
Basically, imagine going to the public library, and then reselling the books to retards.
>>
>>2472425
The guy was making more money doing less work so you got jelly and told mommy on him.
>>
>>2472427
Yes.
>>
>>2472427
Eh, not that anon but that kind of thing where they're basically adding no value and just reselling someone else's work always feels a bit scummy.

Plus there's the risk/problem that I've seen in other contexts were if the 'original owner' of the stuff sees that kind of low effort money grab, they crack down on everything, including the stuff that would be like the other anon where they're actually adding some value, or sometimes just doing shit for free. Ends up just fucking over everyone involved for quick cash so it's hard to see it that favorably.
>>
>>2470471
As of how 3d printers are coming out from factory these days, I would recommend skipping altogether any type of printer with an 8bit mainboard. It you need a big 3d printer, buy a supersize ender 3 v2 kit instead, its even cheaper than buying a big one from creality itself, besides you get all the benefits of the ender 3 v2 customization, 32bit board, better screen and Jyers compatible.
>>
>>2472425
Ugh, I have a few people selling modified versions of one of my designs on eBay and Etsy. The license was "creative commons, non-commercial, attribution", and they are selling them for so cheap that they are barely making any money, so they can just keep that, but I sent one a message asking for him to gib credit to who the original was designed by. That's basically the same thing as plagiarizing an academic paper without a citation, as far as I see it.
>>
>>2472272
decent smoothing job
>>
>>2472442
Thanks! The trick is to drip a little acetone on the horizontal surfaces where the layer lines look like a topo map, then it gives them a head start on the vertical layers that smooth faster/easier.
>>
>>2472444
Was it all done manually with a brush or whatever, or did you use a vapor bath too?
>>
>>2472445
I did the unheated vapor technique with this box: >>2469699, I just squirt the acetone onto the towels out of a polyethylene bottle, then about 10-20 minutes later drip a few drops from the same bottle onto the flat areas, and seal it back up. The process usually takes me 30-60 minutes depending on how smooth I'm trying to make it (or how much the layer lines are not cooperating with me).
Only downside of thmy technique is that I seem to go through a pretty good amount of acetone per job, whereas I feel like a heated and agitated vapor technique might be more efficient and could even be reclaimed somewhat after.
>>
Any ideas why my top surface looks like this?

Top surface skin layers: 2
Top/Bottom thikness: 0.84
Top layers: 6
Top/bottom directions: [90]
>>
>>2472469
you didn't say what material you use so i'd assume it's PLA. what's your fan speed like? what's your nozzle temp and bed temp?
>>
>>2472469
See if there is an option to wait for cooldown between top layers, that should do the trick. Or more top layers.
>>
>>2472469
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing
In short: more cooling, more infill, more top layers.
Also this is more pronounced at small layer heights.
>>
>>2472381
>>>/tg/3dpg
do you not into mongolian noodle recipe repository?
>>
>>2472469
>dr. nimbus
based retro gamer
>>
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Made a couple little spools with retainer clips, got tired of my magnet wire unraveling every time I put it away.
>>
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How do I get rid of the yellow spots
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>>2472611
if those are default cura colors then yellow is top/bottom layers and green is inner wall so I guess you could set top layers to 0?
>>
>>2472611
That model looks messed up and Cura is having problems slicing it. Besides the inner/top walls being messed up looks like you have immovable temporary supports at the bottom too. Fix the model would be the best solution. If you don't want to do that maybe adding another wall layer will give you a nice top finish.
>>
>>2472623
I'm not sure what the yellow is but I've tried that. There are also spots of yellow throughout the solid parts of the model so it's more like infill, but setting the infill to zero doesn't get rid of it either
>>2472624
It's supposed to be a spring and I've printed a smaller one before but I've beefed up the coils. I didn't have a problem removing the supports last time but it was difficult for sure. The setting for the print are 0 top layer, 1 bottom layer, and 50 walls. But the yellow sports are appearing throughout it and it just globs up the model
>>
>>2472550
Oh, I thought you meant a Telegram group...
>>
I wanna make a dactyl
What's a good starting 3d printer?
>>
>>2472657
What is your electro-mechanical skill level?
>>
>>2472663
Low but my bro is an EE so I can bully him for help if need be
>>
>>2472639
Worry not anon I also feel you
>>
>>2472657
>>2472664
how much money are you whiling to spend on the printer + upgrades?
You can get some printers for dirt cheap if you're ok with adding upgrades and dealing with tuning but there's also the more expensive stuff that generally works out of the box.
>>
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What happens if I press this while it's running
>>
>>2472807
the printer thinks the printhead is at x 0, depending on the next comand, nothing could happen, or the head could try and push itself off the x axis.
>>
>>2472807
Nothing. Marlin doesn't watch home or limit switches during printing.
>>
>>2472441
I remember reading somewhere that the greatest compliment in the field of embedded electronics is seeing your design on chinese ebay
>>
>>2472664
god damn how disappoint are your parents in you bro?
>>
>>2472807
Mustard gas.
>>
>>2472835
Probably not very, engineering is saturated as fuck, and even if you get a job it's slave labor for pajeet wages.
>>
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>>2472816
Son of a bitch!
>>
>>2472955
Fugg. At least it gets good reviews.
>>
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is reddit not a useless piece of shithole for once?
>>
>>2472968
That's an interesting thought and I happen to have a laser printer and 3d printer right next to one another. I might just have to buy some transfer paper to test this out.
>>
>>2472971
laser printer foil is expensive as fuck though
>>
>>2472968
this also works with normal printer paper
>>
>>2472974
no it doesn't, are you crazy? it melts the foil onto the print
paper does nothing
>>
>>2472972
Is it? I thought we're talking about the paper-sized transparent plastic sheets you can get at walmart for a few bucks. Is this special stuff?

>>2472974
Eh, one way to find out.
>>
>>2472975
sure it does, the print sticks to the paper. you can even use porous fabric paper or just fabrics in general adhered to the print bed and print directly on it.
>>
>>2472968
why not just emboss the text into the print file and then colour it in with a sharpie
>>
>>2472980
because it looks like shit
have you ever tried printing fine detail? it looks bad and if it's inset and thin you can't even get paint in there
>>
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>>2472974
>>2472975
Test time. Taking bets.
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>>2472986
Rolling for printer fire!
>>
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I already lost. Was sure the paper wouldn't be able to hold the print and it'd rip off the table.
>>
>>2472989
it will never work the paper won't stick to the print well enough
not to mention you have it upside down
>>
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>>2472989
Try parchment paper, or baking paper next. The non-stick properties might be an issue but it is good at ha dling heat.
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>>2472991
Upside down? Explain please.
>>
>>2472989
What if you put the paper ink-side down, then spray IPA on it? Does the ink transfer to the build surface? I imagine acetone would definitely do it, but don't fume yourself out and blemish your plate just yet...
>>
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>>2472992
Not sure I can get those through the printer. Too slippery for the rollers.

>>2472994
Only way I know to transfer to the build plate would be transfer paper and an iron. I don't think normal paper would work for that but never tried. Also don't have an iron to try.
>>
>>2472994
>spray IPA on it?
Now I'm not a hipster but what will spraying Indian Pale Ale on it do to help?
>>
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Getting some curling because the paper isn't attached in the corner. Should have moved the print in the page to the center so I could clamp it better. Live and learn. Still is printing fine. I'll go another layer.
>>
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Results, using normal paper I got about a 50% toner transfer. Probably could get it up to 80%+ with more heat and less speed. If I'd print larger letters with more toner it'd be legible. Adhesion is good. Scratching it with a finder nail doesn't take it off.
>>
>>2472999
Looks just as good as the one from r*ddit, we are now the inventors of this!
>>
>>2472996
Not sure if this is a shitpost or not but he means Isopropyl alcohol.
>>
>>2473002
No I didn't, you hopophobe!
In all seriousness though, I'd bet a nice sticky beer stain would really help with bed adhesion. Any volunteers on this?
>>
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>>2473003
Tried sugar solution once. It caramelized and didn't stick that good.
Best is a PEI bed, second best is to make a glue stick solution with IPA that you can brush on your bed.
>>
>>2472999
fake
text would be backwards
>>
>>2472999
Here it's the laser printer's settings that need to be tuned. You need to make it lay more toner on the paper. On my ancient Lexmark the heavy paper preset works quite well for that.
t. used a similar method to transfer text onto clear tape, cheated my way through uni with it
>>
>>2473045
You can always mirror an image in post.
>>
bros, i want to buy a printer but I'm not quite sure what to get.
want to use it for printing toys or bjd doll
already narrowed down my option to
ender 3 s1
ender 3 s1 pro(review said its pretty good all in one, so less tinkering and upgrading)
anycubic kobra (read some good reviews)

i don't mind a little tinkering but kinda want to more straight to print experience out of the box.
any better suggestions than my newfag view?
also don't want to deal with resin shenanigans
>>
do you think there will ever be a Stable Diffusion for 3D objects that can then be printed?
>>
>>2472997
>>2472999
why wouldn't you gluestick the page to the bed? Your are losing the paper anyway, just want the transfer.
>>
>>2473066
I thought about applying ai to all the statues of the world, might be interesting but not sure what you'd get that wouldn't be a kindergartner ashtray blob shit.
>>
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>>2473066
>tfw ywn have a 3dprinted AI generated gf
they'll exist, but you won't be able to afford one
>>
>>2473075
it might be easier and more valuable to just train it on all available free CAD models, the whole Thingiverse catalog, etc, then scanning statues. I want to be able to prompt "Thinkpad T420 hard drive bracket" or something like that and get a reasonable model from a handful of samples. Ideally, the AI would be able to apply elements of known hardware (hard drive bracket) to unknown models (obscure Alienware laptop) to get something useable where there isn't a specifically human-designed model available.
>>
>>2473077
you're skipping the difficult and only important part: measuring. every model on thingivers isn't magically going to come up with the dimensions of my eeepc mini laptop. that's infinite monkeys at typewriters fantasy.

it would be more reasonable to go from a napkin sketch to developed support. or a photo of the relevant area with AI generated object to build the support from. it's AI extrapolating the photogrammatry and then engineering the support - totally different from what dall-e and the like do, but certainly seems possible.
>>
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>>2473066
I don't see why not, it might even happen faster than you expect. Nvidia has been making insane progress with turning 2d images into 3d scenes/models
this one can do 3d models and textures but it's less than a week old, the code hasn't even been posted: https://nv-tlabs.github.io/GET3D/
these ones aren't generative like the above project but they can create 3d models from 2d images:
https://nvlabs.github.io/nvdiffrec/
https://github.com/NVlabs/instant-ngp
>>
>>2473082
you'd have the target device's measurements in the AI's model, or at least measurements from other components designed for that model. It wouldn't be purely a guess every time.
>>
actually you can mostly "fill in the blanks" with fusion360 generative design as it is, all you need is the important components and measurements.
>>
>>2473085
that's a lot different from typing "Steam Deck desk mount, screw clamp, articulated, three degrees of motion" and getting 20 examples to choose from.
>>
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>>2473083
this shit too, they do it from a single photograph but again it's photogammatry.

>>2473084
>you'd have the target device's measurements in the AI's model
how? you're waving a magic wand that doesn't exist. there simply aren't enough results. "IBM laptop" gives precisely 12 results on thingiverse no two are the same except the duplicate OrangePi project which isn't even relevant.

Again it's much more relevant and possible to provide a picture of the object and have AI extrapolate the measurements and design from there.

I mean image: you take a picture of a hard drive next to a quarter. then a picture of a battery pack. then a picture of a bike seat underneath. then tell the AI to make a structure that supports all in the minimal space. entirely possible and useful. just finding the bike seat you're interested in on thingiverse is a 1 in a million and it's unlikely the correct part will be addressed.

>>2473085
>all you need is the important components and measurements.
which exists for hardware (a la mcmaster carr) but not for every PC laptop ever made.
>>
>>2473089
sure but that would require breaching every company in the world and stealing their proprietary information or scraping the patent website if something happens to be patented and deciphering the weird napkin sketches and autism handwriting/drawing of people.
>>
>>2473090
>how? you're waving a magic wand that doesn't exist. there simply aren't enough results. "IBM laptop" gives precisely 12 results on thingiverse no two are the same except the duplicate OrangePi project which isn't even relevant.
You specify the model number, not just the brand. That's why I specifically used Thinkpad T420 in my example, not just "Thinkpad".

>>2473091
the Steam Deck's specifications are open source I believe.
>>
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>>2473089
I'll give you there are 4 pages of steam deck shit, and only 1/3 of it gets you some frankensteins warship or train on the end of your arm.
>>
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>>2473094
I mean 11 results and this is one of the stands. Not sure how you'd extrapolate measurements for a stand from this.
>>
>>2473098
and I realize thingiverse isn't the entirety of the model libraries but I have looked to reverse engineer measurements more than a few times before and it's a total crapshoot.
>>
>>2473098
the Steam Deck's entire model is free and available even if it's not on Thingiverse. This isn't an example of needing to extrapolate.

And again the question was when this will be feasible and it sounds like the answer is "not today."
>>
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I think my thermistor is done. It shit itself after months of being tortured.

I get thermal runaway but I'm just confused on if this is really the problem
>>
>>2473115
Its weird because it only happens on taller prints. So I think my copper wire is coming loose at some point
>>
>>2473115
>>2473116
Unless you have octoprint and can log temp over time that's a part which is just easier to swap out. You could hook a multimeter on it and watch for variations while jiggling the wires but chances are you're not going to catch it. It could be 0.1s long event that the meter wouldn't even display.

You are running with a sock right?
>>
I bought some tpu. Ninjatek chinchilla. I havent printed in tpu in over 5 years. I dont even really use my fdm printer anymore. But I need printed in tpu for a few reasons.
However Im having several issues. I cannot get the print to get going. The nozzle gets clogged before the print starts and I have to pull the filament out and reload it. This is on a direct drive.
>>
>>2469071
Im thinking of getting my first printer, heard I should try to look for DLP since that's likely to be the best tech. Anyone have a good recommendation? I'm willing to go up to 1000usd
>>
>>2473136
Yeah ive got a cover above the hotend if that's what you mean by sock

I dont have octodad and if its possible can I just DISABLE thermal runaway? My printer is in my basement so chances are of it actually lighting anything on fire are slim
>>
Resin printing or filament printing?
>>
>>2473146
You can disable it but it takes recompiling the firmware. It's a bad idea for multiple reasons. Forget safety, a faulty thermisitor won't keep the hotend at temp and will ruin the print same as a thermal runaway trip. No real point in wasting the filament with a faulty component but you do you.
>>
>>2473090
Fucking jackass camera focused on the fingers... THIS is why AI needs to be able to feel pain!
>>
>>2472989
try 25% more first layer flow, paper is a fantastic printbead due to its texture
>t. fr2 chad
>>
>>2473138
Try a little less spring tension on the extruder clamp, you might be deforming the filament. You still might not get it to work though; Chinchilla is pretty soft at 75A (hence the name), most people go for 95A for this reason. You'll have to print really slow too.
>>
anyone have a favorite SLA setup they'd recommend?
>>
>>2473164
actually the process is fuzzy and always looks out of focus.
>>
>>2473194
I like to put mine in the baby's room so I don't need to spring for a second nanny cam. It also lets me dump unused resin into the diaper genie so it doesn't smell. win-win all around.
>>
>>2473213
I stand by my pain assertion.
>>
>>2473215
The fumes don't kill the babby?
>>
Hi, I don't know nothing about 3d printing but I wanted to print something. How do I know If someone is trying to fuck me with the price? I tried different online services but here in Europe they are obviously designed for small companies that don't print 1 copy, so I want to ask some private/small local business. What is a good price generally? I'm printing a 218x128x10mm case nothing fancy
>>
>>2473234
how would we know, we buy printers not print services. you're best be is probably something like craigslist, I think many anons would take $10 to run their printer for 18 hours solid or something equally stoopid.
>>
my government gave me 800 eurobux as compensation for being poor and the high gas prices but fuck that, i'm buying a 3d printer.
i just need to know if there are any sites for weeb figma and/or gunpla?
>>
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Thanks, to the anon who brought this file to my attention.
>>
Had this window screen (installed by degens of course) fall out during high winds twice and decided to do something about it. 5 min in Fusion, 10 mins on the printer and she’s good now!
>>
>>2473234
upload it to https://craftcloud3d.com/upload or https://www.shapeways.com/ and get a quote
>>
>>2473262
This time 100% more image.
>>
>>2473249
>>>/tg/86147926
for figurines/models you're going to want to do an SLA printer, the guys over in that thread have information in their OP and are better to ask.
>>
>>2473267
>eurobux
you know he's going to jail if he tries to use resin right?
>>
>>2472980
Better than sharpie, you can buy colored CA glue. Gives your finished product an old-school enamel nameplate look.
>>
>>2473271
>>2473271
>>2473271
>>2473271
>>
>>2473268
he doesn't need to know that
>>
>>2471175
I got one spool of it specifically for RC car tires. Works a charm.
>>
>>2473270
CA glue of color, you bigot.
>>
>>2472986
>>2472989
what a disappointment I thought it was gonna be a pen plotter for this thread.
>>
>>2472999
checked
should have been in new op
>>
>>2472629
update cura to a version with arachne, enable it and never look back.
If this is with enabled arachne slicing, then your model is fucked.
>>
>>2472999
You're doing God's work.
>>
I there any point in building a 3d printer anymore? I bought a bunch of servos a million years ago and then just bought an ender 3...
Is it worth the investment in time and threaded rod to build one for a little bit more bred space and to have a 2nd machine?
What is the meta these days for people that have built them, what are you building?
>>
>>2470904
I'd say Proper Printing, but he isn't autistic.



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