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File: BeFunky-collage (1).jpg (1.38 MB, 3264x3264)
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Last thread: >>2435610

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://printables.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
>>2440966
Not sure if this is quite the right place to ask, but have you guys had any luck with 3d printing services? I've been trying to print a part out of ASA but I have neither the build volume nor setup to do it well, and I'm sick of babysitting a multi-day part just for it to fail when I'm asleep.
>>
>>2441039
Have you tried putting a cardboard box over your printer? Works for me.
>>
>>2441052
I'm tempted to shell out for one of those collapsible enclosures with a clear window since I want to be able to check on if it's failed yet or not
>>
>>2441058
You mean a cardboard box with some plastic wrap around it?
>>
Where I can find a theoretical book or good tutorial about splicing?
To understand formulas and algorithms of the most common tasks, and then try them on my own small programming project.
>>
anyone else every work with natural (clear-ish) PLA?
I'm having a hell of a time getting adhesion
first few layers go down alright
but after that, it separates
more bed temp? (running 65fl,60)
slower speed?
more/less extrusion?
I've skewed everything I can think of 20% either direction to no improvement
>>
>>2441166
Yes. Perfect adhesion. Cool bed, glue stick, 210 C.
BUT
there if a "fake PLA" or like so, it's awful.
Also looks like you have a problem with deformation when fan starts, try to decrease speed and fan. 70 C for heated bed must be OK, try more but it can melt model bottom. Or try to run fan at start, not in height (some PLA-only printers have a constant fan, I tested it, works well with natural PLA).
>>
stupid question
can i put a 9mm belt on a 9mm timing pulley?
or should i have a bit of wiggle room?
>>
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>>2441221
Thats kinda based, ngl.
>>
>>2441126
go ask >>>/sci/ about CRISPR I guess. pls make me a catgirl.
>>
>>2441191
yes
>>
>>2441221
I've never burnt a driver. This just seems unnecessary. Are you guys swapping drivers every other week or something?
>>
>>2441249
k thanks
i found a pulley thats 10mm width
>>
>>2441274
I wish to be able to change my printer's drivers to silent ones. They are hard mounted in motherboard.
>>
>>2441320
So buy a duet and live a little.
>>
>>2441320
There's still no point in buying a board with slots for driver boards because if you're buying a new board just buy one with silent drivers. All this slot non-sense does is add cost.
>>
>>2441274
If you have a board with slots, it's better than the shitty 3M paper taped heatsinks that fall off at least.
>>
>>2441336
The main board having slots or not has no bearing on how the heatsink is stuck to the driver chip ...
>>
>>2441344
show me one like >>2441221
then
>>
>>2441274
>Are you guys swapping drivers every other week or something?
Getting Pentium II vibes.
>>
Where do I get the file for the four legged goose?
>>
Are there opensource software to flash sla printers with?
>>
Has anyone seen big jumps in their electric bill from using a 3D Printer or is it more on par with running a game console constantly? trying to gauge what to expect.
>>
>>2441458
it barely adds to my electrical
>>
>>2441466
and I print things sometimes 60 hours straight

hit enter too quick
>>
>>2441469
IT'S HIM! HE BOUGHT THE 4CHAN PASS!
>>
>>2441458
My Ender 3 uses around an amp when printing. If I printed 24/7/365 it'd cost just under $150 in electricity a year or about $0.017 per hour printing.
>>
>>2441502
when I bought my pass I spent 3 hundredths of a percent of a bitcoin on it, why would you not avoid dealing with the retarded new captchas for the equivalent of less than a penny
>>
>>2441502
>IT'S HIM!
Shit! Hide!
>>
I've printed ten+ of these tolerance tests and my conclusion is I don't know what the fuck I'm doing.

I use prusaslicer and it is maddening. The two biggest effects seem to be fill gaps and xy compensation, but it refuses to dial in. Like the prints are too inconsistent. I've never experienced this in any other test print. Usually you print out something like a bridging test, you make changes and you get a better print. Even YouTube sucks for tolerance tests. There is video after video showing a print, but not one fuck tells you what settings to mess with to make it better. And the forums, fuck man if you aren't an expert then don't bother. Haven't been this mad about 3D printing since I was trying to get my new board upgrade working. I think I give up. Ender 3 style printer and yeah at this point I should have bought the prusa or built a high quality printer.
>>
Is there a way to regulate over-extrusion in the first few layers in Cura?
All I find is options for the first layer, which I don't have any problem with, but I do with the next 7 or 8 layers, specially when I use 100% infill.
>>
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Had a print go all weird on me at a certain height.
Printed again same result.
Printed a tall cylinder no problem.

What happened?
>>
>>2441723
Isn't its a problem with bed calibration or first layer overflow? Also try to search an "elephant foot compensation" in settings, maybe new Cura has it. Or reduce "initial layer expansion" setting.
>>
>>2441739
If I lift the bed any more, the first layer won't print and if I lower it it won't stick. I also tried the "initial layer expansion" but it only works for the first layer, not the next few.
Prusa slicer has the option you said, I'll give it a try.
>>
What soft foam plastic (not expandable) can you recommend?
>>2441737
Check filament diameter twice. What height of defected part when you halfing or doubling layer thickness? Check that Z axis doesn't deformed. Maybe lift Z endstop and bed to 8-10 layers?
>>
>>2441737
No shit, the nozzle as it's laying down plastic is moving and is deflecting the print. The plastic is being pushed and pulled by the nozzle, but with rigid enough structures the effects are negligible. those sunglasses aren't rigid enough for you to be able to print as it is currently drawn.
>>
>>2441811
I'm using a 0'5mm zhop so it must be while laying down the layer.
What do you recommend for this in future prints?
Maybe my part cooling fan is too strong?
>>
>>2441737
>>2441835
Either design the part thicker or add some support structure from the side that you cut away later. This will happen to any tall and narrow part.
It's mainly caused by the nozzle and the plastic itself pushing the print around, but theoretically the fan could also make it worse, especially if it's a stronger blower. You shouldn't disable the fan though, at most reduce speed.
>>
>>2441039
never used them but will be soon
I've heard good thing about some of them
https://3dprintdirect.co.uk/
They are supposedly quite good, you pay about 2-3 times the material cost so obviously make sure your part is finalised before sending it off
>>
>>2439717
>Without local storage you need to stream the data for the entire duration that the printer is operational.
>wifi 2d printers can print 10+ pages a minute so you can hit print and have the whole job finish reasonably quick.
>with 3d printers you need to keep your computer online for hours and hours to stream all the g-code needed, and any interruption will botch the print.
that's the point of having on board storage
wifi 2d printers have it too to support e.g reprint button
inb4
>cap on print size, wear levelling
prompt user to plug in usb if too big
the wear levelling in this sort of application is completely trivial and a solved problem
>>
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ender 3 pro
is upgrading worth it? which upgrades are?
>>
>>2441375
NGL, making me nostalgic for my dual PII 333. It was an absolute beast in its day.
>>
>>2441835
change the model or add in supports that contact the model midway through. This shape will never be easy to print, even with huge Z hop.
>>
>>2441874
you probably want the metal extruder upgrade:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creality-Official-3D-Extruders-Accessories/dp/B092HKZMQM/ref=asc_df_B092HKZMQM/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=534907119351&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5243838120228502895&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9041106&hvtargid=pla-1376998366507&psc=1

maybe the silent board if noise is an issue
and possibly a dual z lead screw
But most importantly print every single plastic upgrade you can find on thingiverse in a luminous green or orange.
>>
>>2441874
Upgrades are worth it. I would suggest the following:

Biqu H2 extruder
BTT SKR Mini E3v3
Yellow bed springs
Raspberry Pi Zero 2W
Klipper firmware

My Ender3 runs about three times as fast as stock without quality loss.
>>
>>2441959
Oh I forgot the most important upgrade: BL Touch or CR Touch
>>
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>>2441959
You're running an Ender 3 at 150mm/s with no quality loss?
>>
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I just bought my first 3d printer on a whim, arrives tomorrow. What am I in for? How do I gitgud at CAD/Mechshit? I'm just an electrician and finance fag and I know nothing about gears.

... how many foxgirl figurines is too many?
>>
>>2441795
It's for>>2441778
>>
>>2441874
Just got the same printer.
He recommended me a glass work bed.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B082PC59BP/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_HNGB2314WRPV1NBMG7KH_0
>>
Finally built the ratrig 500. Overall a sloppy kit, especially when it comes to the electronics (couple of parts missing, wires not crimped, many need extending, some fans not included, mains side neglected, spring steel umbilical necessary but not included). That said, with the rapido and orbiter combo, this thing lays plastic at ridiculous speeds. Stock it's going 200mm/s with .6 nozzle and .4 layer height, at ~50mm^3/s with better than average quality. I intend to use this thing for medium/large size PETG prototypes, so for my purposes it works great. If anyone has questions about the ratrig kit I can answer them.
>>
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>Set retraction to 300mm, still get stringing
>>
>>2442089
Try slowing down the speed and lessening the distance. If the plastic is yanked too quickly, it will not all vacate the chamber.
>>
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>>2442090
>If the plastic is yanked too quickly, it will not all vacate the chamber.

ohhhhh.
>>
>>2442021
what printer?
>>
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Determined to get a flawless tower. This is the worst one since I'm limited to ~5mm retract because of allmetal heatbreak.
>>
Im printing some lithopanes and I'm curious about this prusaslicer behaviour.

The model is 100% infilled. This particular layer (pic related) is 100% solid; however, instead of normally filling it with the normal zig-zag movement, in certain areas (like the red dot) it tries to approximate the shape of what is going to be above that area.

Since the infill is at 100% I assume this is useless since the layer is going to be completely solid anyway, and I also assume it adds more print time because having to make wierd shapes will never be as fast/efficient as an uninterrupted zigzag pattern.

Is there any actual reason for this? How could I disable this behaviour?
>>
>>2441688
If you can, buy a digital dial they normally cost 20-30 USD,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R7P7H6M/

if that is too much a cheaper alternative would be digital tire depth.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NSLK7WC/

and print a mount for it for the hotend, I have a glass bed, and bought a digital dial and feeler gauge to try something different. even with a glass bed, middle of my bed is .05 higher, once I got the gap of the nozzle that I wanted I heated up the bed, and went to all four corners to get reading with my digital dial, and I would go to all four corners adjusting until all 4 corners would read the same from my digital dial, and the middle was as close to the four corners.

I am able to print tolerance test to .15 no problem.
>>
>>2441975
its not stock, that anon is using a 32 bit board, which is a common board when printing quicker, my voron v0.1 has the same board and im doing 160mm/s 5k accel.
>>
Stupid question but how do I measure stuff in Blender?
I wanted to print the pistol from TF2.
I managed to extract and convert the model but I think I botched up the upscaling.
>>
>>2442089
Maybe your nozzle is a not original and has fucked up geometry (too deep drilled large channel). Or you overheating PETG.
>>
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>>2442139
You can chalk that up to just retardation on the slicer's part. I don't think there's any reason you'd be able to find that's not deep down in the code.

Also I think you're printing it wrong; they're supposed to stand up. Somehow this was the only pic I was able to find of a lithophane actually ON a printer, but you get the idea.
>>
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>>2442178
Blender works in metric. 1 unit = 1 meter. If you really wanted to, you could fuck with the scale settings, but there's no real reason to, 9 times out of 10 it's just screwed me over.
>>
>>2442021
>CAD
just boot up fusion 360 and draw
it's actually really intuitive
you make a 2d shape, extrude it, make another shape, extrude again
>>
>>2442178
When you're exporting an STL from blender you have to scale it by 1000 on the export menu. It's one of the options on the right of the window where you give it the file name to be exported.
>>
>>2442139
yes it's useless because prusa doesn't give a fuck
disable it by waiting 10 years until they finally deign to fix it or the market moves on from prushit
>>
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>>2442205
>>2442213
that's great but neither of you told him how to measure stuff in blender

>>2442178
measure tool, second to the bottom of the toolbar on the left
>>
so I'm replacing the thermistor in my cr10 but the replacement thermistors I got on amazon have a small molex-type connector but the thermistor on my printer goes directly to the screw-on connector that goes to the box. should I just clip the wires of the bad thermistor and solder the new thermistor wires?
>>
>>2442222
Son of a a bitch. Measure tool didn't used to exist when I first started using Blender, I just made do with dragging vertices and looking at the displacement readout
>>
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>>2441975
Here's a benchy I printed in 13:50.

If I slice it for 30 minutes, it would look pretty much flawless.
>>
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>>2442285
>>
>>2442260
You should crimp on the opposite gender JST-SM connector on the existing wiring. Solder belongs on PCBs only. Having wires soldered together, especially when the wires are constantly stressed as they are on a 3D printer, is a housefire waiting to happen.
>>
FUCKING stepper motor has one of those gears that are pressed on. This double gear extruder is turning out to be a royal pain in the ass. Anyone have a gear puller tool they can recommend for something small like a cr10 stepper motor?
>>
>>2441502
LOL, what a cuck! I bet he doesn't even have a double digit ban count.
>>
>>2442287
Calling this a benchie is like calling one of those sewn-on skin sausages a penis.
>>
>>2442285
if you call that a print, i don't have any confidence in your standard of "flawless"
>>
>>2442309
>>2442318
Anons, need I remind you that it's a 13 minute benchy printed on a fugging Ender 3?
>>
>>2442287
this is about the quality of a doodle on your birthday card from a friend who can't draw

"I know you like benchies, so I drew you this benchy! :) Happy 40th"
>>
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>>2442320
Here's an 18 minute benchie. Do you really need to save those extra 5 minutes in your life?
>>
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>>2442320
And here is a 19 minute benchie. It doesn't even hurt your eyes!
>>
>>2441844
>that's the point of having on board storage
Yes, so just leave a USB permanently attached, same thing.

>prompt user to plug in usb if too big
and there will always some autist seething that the onboard size is just too small for their oh so special print
or they can just prompt it all the time/require usb and save the trouble of doing onboard storage

>the wear levelling in this sort of application is completely trivial and a solved problem
show me a single <$3 flash chip with built-in wear leveling. I'll wait.
oh, you meant use software wear levelling? Like they should spend time validating that it works just for your autism vs implementing features everyone else wants?

>inb4 hurr it should be trivial to implement and validate
Sandisk got hit by a firmware bug that bricks SSDs at 40000 hours, try validating something like that: https://access.redhat.com/solutions/6693611

and no matter how much you spread writes, you'd still have planned obsolescence when it does eventually wear out.

now if it was the entire AFS farm, I can imagine having local storage, they can just install an SSD/eMMC at some central controller thing. Just like higher end laser printers have internal SSDs
>>
>>2442089
>Set retraction to 300mm
>300mm
>30cm
>0.3m
nigga what? you retracted all the way to the bowden tube?

>>2442139
see >>2442204 , print vertically. I printed litophanes vertically using prusaslicer and have no issue. Though I wonder if Arachne will change things for better or worse.

>>2442214
ya should've used Stratasys® Cura®, right?
>>
>>2442356
>Yes, so just leave a USB permanently attached, same thing.
at least normies using 2d printers aren't cucked enough to accept this
you need to provide your own usb just to use the wifi feature!
>and there will always some autist seething that the onboard size is just too small for their oh so special print
let them seethe no reason to stop the rest of us having cool stuff
>show me a single <$3 flash chip with built-in wear leveling. I'll wait.
>oh, you meant use software wear levelling? Like they should spend time validating that it works just for your autism vs implementing features everyone else wants?
since the files are going to be written once, then discarded, and aren't going to be edited, you can just write in a ring. a solution also used by... 2d printers.
>Sandisk got hit by a firmware bug that bricks SSDs at 40000 hours, try validating something like that: https://access.redhat.com/solutions/6693611
true why do anything at all if it might fail
>and no matter how much you spread writes, you'd still have planned obsolescence when it does eventually wear out.
the write demands of 3d printing is so low this is practically irrelevant
>>
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What's the best ender 3 hotend upgrade.
I don't want to print fast I want to print good so no need for a high flow nozzle.
I also don't want Revo it didn't work for me.
>>
I'm thinking of getting a clone prusa mk3s. I have an ender3 v2 now for almost a year and want a second printer but don't want to pay prusa prices. I have my eye on this one https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004349963984.html
any thoughts?
>>
>>2442290
Just put a rigid support around the solder joint. It'll be fine for tens of thousands of hours as long as it's not being forced to bend/strain.
>>
>>2442493
Whats was your problem with revo?
>>
>>2441688
>I use prusaslicer
A common mistake
Get Cura and install the settings guide addon so you know exactly what the fuck you are changing and how it will affect your print. Cura has way more settings than prusaslicer so having them explained in detail will really help.
>There is video after video showing a print, but not one fuck tells you what settings to mess with to make it better
See above. The settings guide usually contains enough info for you to tell what you need to change.
>>
>>2442493
The V6. Simple, good cooling, great melting performance, no PTFE fuckery.
>>
>>2442493
Phaetus Dragonfly
>>
There any reason to buy name brand over cheapo china-shit nozzles?
>>
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I want to make a tiny (6*10mm) pressure valve, the type that uses a ball and a spring. Would metal 3D printing services like JLC have sufficient precision? They say tolerance is 0.2mm, maybe too low for screw threads?
>>
>>2440966
Is there anyone who hosts precompiled marlin for Ender 3s and such?

Trying to avoid installing ANOTHER fucking ide just for one damn thing.
>>
so what about toxic fumes
isnt it dangerous to have a 3d printer in your living room?
>>
>>2442493
You should be using a high flow nozzle. There's literally no drawback to using a high flow hotend and nozzle at the same size.
>>
>>2442614
You wouldn't be able to get the threads but you can get a hole that'll be the correct size for tapping. I'd still drill out the hole with the correct size bit before tapping to keep from breaking the tap from an undersized hole.

>>2442618
Not that I know of. You could make a VM instance for it. That's what I did.

>>2442644
There's no fumes with the low temp materials like PLA.
>>
>>2442666
Hmm maybe I can use another locking system, a bayonet maybe
>>
>>2442668
half turn slot/tab twist lock.
>>
Do you guys know any good websites for ripped gamemodels? If not are there tutorials on how to do it?

There are sites like p3dm.ru to get em, but they are very incomplete. It would seem alot of fun to have some furniture out of a game. Like a lamp out of bioshock or some random stuff. It had been modeled once for the game, so why reinventing the wheel.

Holy fuck this captcha is killing me
>>
>>2442644
People will cope and tell you that FDM is not dangerous, but the reality is we know that microplastics are horrible for your body. Nobody knows HOW bad yet, as we havent had time to do real studies, and those studies are going to be based off of YOUR death statistics for generations in the future.
Regardless we know that there are plastics that we ingest and breath through all sorts of mechanisms and shit aint good.

We also know that being in the room with a FDM printer printing even PLA put out microparticles of plastic which you breath.

Its not uncommon to get a sore throat from sitting in a room with a 3d printer printing.
Resin from resin printers sort of took the spotlight off of the whole "breathing a bunch of plastic microparticles for hours and hours" because the resin is really fucking nasty on the lungs and the skin as well.

Just because the resin is carcinogenic and worse, doesnt mean that the FDM printers are harmless.
>>
>>2442694
Not game model specific but there are tons of Telegram channels for STL files
>>
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>>2442694
Google hasn't failed me for all of the darksouls shit that I've printed.
>It would seem alot of fun to have some furniture out of a game. Like a lamp out of bioshock or some random stuff.
homie this is straight autism, if you want one off furniture models to print, you're gonna have to learn how to strip assets. also picrel
>>
>>2442106
ender 3, arriving tonite according to amazoo
>>2442212
okey =]
>>
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i have a cr10 and i like it, but the control box is a bitch.
while looking for solution i found stand alone mods, but im a noob when it come to electronic and moving electronic parts.
so i was thinking of adding 3 legs and using the control box as the fourth leg, pic related.
is it a bad idea? or should i just go with stand alone mod?
>>
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>>2442469
>you need to provide your own usb just to use the wifi feature!
yes because 2d printers are fast enough to just stream the files, lrn2read
>let them seethe no reason to stop the rest of us having cool stuff
nigga youre one of them turboautists currently seething about the onboard size of 0 being too small to not use USB. Meanwhile the rest of us well-balanced individuals just use things like picrel
>since the files are going to be written once, then discarded, and aren't going to be edited, you can just write in a ring.
people with actual work tend to keep a bunch of files stored in the usb so they can reprint the last X number of presliced jobs
unless you're just printing random thingiverse trinkets everytime, but surely you don't do this right anon?
>true why do anything at all if it might fail
cuz I want my printer to keep working instead of having ender tier reliability. Get an ender if you want ender tier reliability and customisation, nothing wrong with that if thats what you want.
>the write demands of 3d printing is so low this is practically irrelevant
source:my ass
>>
I'm thinking of getting this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095K3JWP3?tag=georiot-us-default-20&th=1&ascsubtag=tomshardware-us-7803582933019148000-20&geniuslink=true

And

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08626WF87/ref=emc_b_5_t
First time looking into 3d printing, want it for little figurines.

Anyone used these products?
>>
>>2442905
have you checked the 3d printing general on /tg/? they print figurines, might have exactly the sort of experiences you're looking for
>>
>>2442912
I have not, I didn't think to check them over here. I'll read their shit first.
>>
how hard would it be to convert a solid model of a gun into a shell for an airsoft gun? I already know you can split models easily with meshmixer but I've got no clue as to how you'd account for a barrel and trigger mechanism and mag well and the gearbox itself
>>
>>2442648
One small drawback, is that you have to watch your retraction distance with TPU, although you can get around this a bit with a slower retraction speed. Other than that, high-flow all the way, and don't forget a beefed up heater cartridge too!
>>
>>2442938
Probably easier to do that sort of thing with a STEP file in Fusion 360 or Solidworks. Check GrabCAD, someone might have made a file for the outer surface of whatever you are looking for, then you can just hollow it out and chop it up in a proper parametric CAD program.
>>
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Im at the end of my sanity
shit still clogging, new nozzle, even used a lathe to make a fucking fixture to cut the feed tube PERFECTLY perpendicular. I cleaned the inside of the heater element, leveled the bed and everything. Tightened the fittings and the nozzle ONLY after already shoving in the tube in against the nozzle to make it snug
when I put in the filament for the first time it flows like a dream (at a slight angle but the dimension is fine), after I start printing it just fucking clogs and I have to replace the small piece of tube inside the heating element before the nozzle
>>
>>2442970
Are you printing too fast and the element overheats trying to keep up with temp loss?
>>
>>2442970
did you check your hot end isn't overheating? i bought an e3d clone 4 years back, and when the thermistor read 200c it was actually at 240c.
is your fan actually cooling the hot end heatsink?
are you printing shitty filament with a lower melt temp?
is the thermistor actually attached properly? is it making contact with the hot end or is it flopping around near it?

do some basic sanity checks, simple shit you could have overlooked, like making sure your slicer isn't upping the temp after the irst few layers, or that you printer has thermal runaway protection on the firmware.
maybe put a dust filter on, i had a bit problem with cat hair clogs.
watch the printer and see if its like, nosediving into parts on the infill.
make sure your part cooler fan isn't pointed at the nozzle.
>>
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ender 3, ender 3 v2, ender 3 pro, ender 3 s1
which one?
>>
>>2442797
>because 2d printers are fast enough to just stream the files
yet they still have memory because it still helps on large documents and to support features such as reprint
if a vital fucking function needs storage then it only makes even more sense to include it
>youre one of them turboautists currently seething about the onboard size of 0 being too small to not use USB
needing a usb for any print > size 0 and only massive prints is not the same
>people with actual work tend to keep a bunch of files stored in the usb so they can reprint the last X number of presliced jobs
>source:my ass
even if the wifi offers persistent file management, the wear requirements are still trivial
you could figure this out with some simple maths and comparing to endurance figures instead of just bootlicking
>cuz I want my printer to keep working instead of having ender tier reliability. Get an ender if you want ender tier reliability and customisation, nothing wrong with that if thats what you want.
yes a little bit of onboard memory, a completely solved problem in normie devices, is going to turn it into ender reliability
>>
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Are bed leveler worth it? I have an Ender 3 pro and I may buy a CR Touch.
>>
>>2443016
Prusa, Voron, or Rat Rig.
>>
>>2443016
3dp sucks do something else
>>
>>2443094
The Prusa i3 isn't in the same class as the voron or ratrig. And the prusa xl is basically twice the cost after tax.
>>
>>2443070
They compensate for an uneven bed surface and you'll never have to adjust the bed levelling again.
If you want to try printed on glass for example, just attach it and the sensor will compensate for the extra height,
>>
>>2442991
I'll give these a go, the thing that bothers me is that the printer was working fine a month and a half ago, since then I was trying to fix it with nothing working
I didnt change anything besides the feed tube and the few nozzels that got clogged, everything else is exactly the same when it printed beautifully
same printer, same parameters, even the same g codes that I had from when it was working fine
one day it just stopped working
>>
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>>2443016
bump
>>
>>2442991
I'll probably change out the entire heater assembly with the Dragonfly hotend soon anyways. I usually print at 80mm/s because that always worked with the PLA that always came out perfect
>>
>>2442970
Is it actually clogging? Like is the extruder motor skipping (making a clunking noise) or is the gear just sliding on the filament?
If it's the latter, try putting the yellow bed springs on the extruder. If that doesn't work and you've ruled out everything else, get another control board (costs ~£40) and see if that fixes it. Maybe your extruder driver is damaged. If you don't want to replace it, make sure the case fans are working so the board & extruder drivers are being cooled.

I had similar problems on an ender 3, extruder would work for 20 minutes then clog every time. It would also unclog almost itself only 5 minutes after the print had stopped.
It was about 3 problems all in one, case fan had died & the extruder ptfe tube was not flush with the nozzle.
>>
>>2443190
yeah the gear is making the clicking noise as its skipping on the filament
I have the ender 5 plus. i'll try fucking with the fans but I didnt even touch them so I dont see how they could be a problem
thing is a little while back I could print one piece but after trying to run another program it would clog. now it even clogs on the first run
>>
>>2443167
Got the 3v2 myself, I'm pretty pretty happy with it.

S1 looks very very nice, and considering it already has the crtouch by default it really isnt that much expensive compared to the 3v2+separate crtouch.

The baseline 3 has certain thins lacking compared to the v2, like no belt tensioners (which I believe is a must)

Whatever your budget can afford.
>>
>>2442359
Yeah, I'm a retard, apparently they look better in overall quality when printed vertically. I thought that printing them horizontally would be better since there wouldnt be any visible layer lines, but yeah, horizontal litophanes have very bad image quality since you are very restrained by the amount of layers for the image
>>
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>>2443218
you better not lie to me i just ordered the s1
>>
>>2443246
Nah, it's gonna be fine I'd say. Apparently it's even easier to set up than the v2, and even that one was relatively easy, specially considering it was my first printer.
>>
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Cults3D would be my preferred 3D printing file site if they could get their fucking image server working
>>
Is there a web or open source application that can hollow models? Right now I'm pulling them into chitubox, hollow, save model, import into lychee to slice for my printer. It's a pain. I just hate the idea of paying a monthly subscription to use the features.
>>
>>2443094
Voron, DoomCube, or 3DPrintersForAnts.com are the patrician choices. I would only consider Prusa if I was thinking of bulk ordering the Mini, the i3 is too expensive for what it is.
Ratrig just sounds like the kits are put together by greedy assholes.
Ender 3 if Iwas just looking to try 3d printing out and not sure if I would like it or find it useful.
>>
Am >>2442021 got it built, leveled, and running! sugoi excitement
>>
>>2440966
Ender 3v2 on sale for 199 on newegg. Should I do it?
>>
why are all the upgrade magnetic beds only suited for 70°C ? the ender s1 comes already fitted with one is the s1 limited to a 70°C bed?
>>
>>2443340
Really? Why am I using mine on the prusa on 80-90°c?>>2443340
>>
>>2443340
>>2443354
I wanted to say Curie temp demagnetizing but I can't find anything under 500ºC nor info on shit magnets like truck logos.

However I did have some vehicle magnets I made for a club deteriorate in the heat/sun enough that the magnetic material separated and was partially welded to the vehicle, ruining paint and shit. It was about what you'd get if you glued one side of foam board randomly then ripped away what you could. I never knew if it was the heat or UV that destroyed the magnets- they probably should have been indoor and the people who made them just faggots. Anyway, could be that: adhears to bed after enough heats and wrecks your shit completely.
>>
>if a vital fucking function needs storage then it only makes even more sense to include it
They did include that storage, its the USB drive that you can leave attached out of sight
>needing a usb for any print > size 0 and only massive prints is not the same
I said only autists will seethe, you're seething, ipso facto your autism is flaring up
>the wear requirements are still trivial
>source:my ass
you could prove me wrong once and for all with some simple maths and comparing to endurance figures instead of just bootlicking
>yes a little bit of onboard memory, a completely solved problem in normie devices, is going to turn it into ender reliability
yep, a comlpetely solved problem just like the SSD failure causing downtime across the industry.
>>
>>2443409
>>2443064
whoops forgot the (you)
>>
>>2441835
usually its not enough cooling that causes this

try printing it at half the speed you did originally, if its still just as bad then you have some other kind of issue
>>
>>2442695
yeah its not like humans haven't been working with polymers for over a hundred years or anything
>but the reality is we know that microplastics are horrible for your body. Nobody knows HOW bad yet
why are tinfoil schizo crackpot cranks always extremely terrible with logic?
>>
>>2443458
I think the assumption is that the amount of plastic shit in the environment is is accumulating to the point that there is now a little bit in everything and everyone, which is different to the time before the third world was sold mountains of plastic shit with no knowledge or motivation to dispose of it properly.
What does that have to do with 3d printing though? Probably not a whole lot, but recycle your scraps at least and don't huff printer air.
>>
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>>2443458
>yeah its not like humans haven't been working with polymers for over a hundred years or anything
True, which is why we know how carcinogenic some are. And while it was just assumed if you werent there during the production of them, or you werent burning them in the trash, you were safe enough.
Too bad we now know of measurable microplastics in the water and in the air, which have been showing up in the feces and blood of people, even infants in some cases.
People who are not working directly exposed in those factories.

This is objective fact, they are everywhere in everyone, with PFAS and other compounds tainting pretty much everyone on earth.
You should look into it, pretty interesting stuff

>why are tinfoil schizo crackpot cranks always extremely terrible with logic?
Ive always wondered that myself.

People get upset about the whole microplastic thing when they hear "we dont have conclusive evidence for that yet" seeing how its a discover that is only around 15 years old.
They expect peer reviewed, quantified damage done from exposure of microplastics, studies which are typical done over generations of people done upon death and disease statistics.

So since there isnt been a peer reviewed paper that says "its bad, and here is exactly every single link of why its bad" they stick their head in the sand and pretend its not a problem.
They know of the studies showing that in a lab, the microplastics are toxic to human cells, and that they know of the carcinogenic ratings given 60 years ago to plastic production. But until they see it in writing, its not real!

Too bad none of that really matters as we arent talking strictly microplastics in the water.
We are talking about burning and melting plastic, in your bedroom, where studies have shown they greatly fill a room with plastic microparticles, even with PLA.

Good logic to think its harmless until mr scientist puts out a paper amirite?
>>
>>2443486
>Good logic to think its harmless until mr scientist puts out a paper amirite?
ever wonder about factories where people work with plastics for years? If plastics have been around for over a hundred years, we would already have data on high bodily microplastic health effects, and long term effects of exposure in general. Guess what, cured polymers are inert, whoda thunk.

Let me tagent for a moment, do you believe that asbestos was thought to be completely safe until a study came out linking it to cancer?
>>
>>2443486
>Too bad none of that really matters as we arent talking strictly microplastics in the water.
>We are talking about burning and melting plastic, in your bedroom, where studies have shown they greatly fill a room with plastic microparticles, even with PLA.
People don't have a corner in their garage for running these? I can't imagine listening to printers running for hours and hours, eww.
>>
>>2441070
>plastic wrap. look at this guy living in luxury
>>
>>2443486
>studies showing that in a lab, the microplastics are toxic to human cells
link? this bit is new to me and my google-fu is crap when it comes to biology papers
>>
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>>2440966
so what's popular, trending, and good for selling for profit nowadays?
>i haven't looked into selling prints for profit since the moon lantern thing caught on btw
>pic unrelated
>>
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>>2443617
nothing is popular
nothing is trending
wait for the overlords to tell you what is
nothing is good for selling for profits
except if you assume worthless paper or digits as a value of profit
>>
Is it true that a corexy won't make any quality upgrades against a plain cartesian printer? I thought without a moving bed one should get less ringing via bed leveling issues.

>>2443617
Look into services around you. The only feasible money is made by designing.
>>
>>2443572
>t. 4 inch penor with a reduced sperm count
>>
>>2443625
What you mean? Prusa-like quakebed and Corexy both are Cartesians. It's all about allowable printing speed because of moving parts weight. Prusas are slowest because bed is heavy and axelerations can damage model under print. Makerbot (moving X-motor) is faster, but moving X motor is still heavy. Ultimaker (cross-axes), coreXY, Hbot are fastest because only extruder is moving.
>>2442614
Looks like it should be drilled of metal piece. Why printing?
>>
>>2442602
Some (not all!) cheap nozzles has a shitted up sizes and geometry. It's cause excess leaking during empty moves and possible nozzle destruction during print (happens with me with a cheap stainless nozzle which was drilled too deep possible by drunk master). Google what seller has an acceptable quality before ordering.
>>
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>>2443661
Just illustrated (if you want to know right drilling depth check original Ultimaker or industrial-grade nozzles).
>>
>>2443340
Get a more expensive one like whambam, they've tested them up to like 150C or something
>>
>>2443658
By cartesian i meant the usual mendel like as most resources seem to intermix them anyway. However if it's just that and I won't see any quality improvements on voron and such, i'll just stick to a Prusa or bearmod clone.
>>
>>2443667
Stock Creality nozzles are drilled to 11mm with a 13mm overall so have a 2mm long nozzle channel. That infographic calls for at least 7mm long channel to be good. Is the graphic not to scale or are Creality nozzles bad/ugly?
>>
>>2443751
Creality definitly cheaps out in it's default nozzles. If you wanna upgrade one, get a new heatbreak as well while you're at it.
>>
>>2442776
It's a stupid idea, and I used to hate the control box until I fully enclosed my printer. At best get yourself a set of extensions.
>>
>>2443625
>Is it true that a corexy won't make any quality upgrades against a plain cartesian printer?
It's minor, although can go taller on your print before accelerations wobble the upper layers.
>>
>>2443641
I accept your full concession.
>>
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>>2443826
suck my ball ya lil twink
>>
>>2443801
>taller
Nah, i'm on the Replicator's side on that one. Wide to use as much even platform as possible.
>>
>>2443625
>Is it true that a corexy won't make any quality upgrades against a plain cartesian printer?
teaching tech and cnckitchen have both found that bed slingers can handle less acceleration than a corexy, but the caveat is that to push really high speeds, ie 2x cartesian, you still have to tune pressure advance regardless, and cooling remains an issue unless you have some serious ducting
>>
>>2443340
Because the magnetic sticker on the bed starts to degrade above that temperature.
Honestly why do you even want a magnetic plate anyways? Most decent upgrade plates are not designed to be used with a magnetic bed.
>>
>>2443574
I take the best daytime naps while listening to the sounds my printer makes.

t. unemployed manufacturing engineer
>>
>>2442694
models-resource.com has a lot/
>>
>>2443016
depends on the price.
if you can get micro center's $100 ender 3 pro deal, do that. if you can't, get the v2.
>>
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Oh my God learning cad sucks ass. Cad for retards when?
>>
>>2443966
Dude, just select a a surface or plane, draw a sketch and fully define it with dimensions or geometric relations, either extrude or cut that shape, and repeat.
This is NOT fucking hard, unless you are using Blender, in which case: fuck you.
>>
>>2443971
honestly even a half hour tutorial video with the basics is a huge help to the absolute beginner.
But yeah--- what this guy says. Unless you need a part with symmetry around an axis, then it's basically draw the sketch and rotate it.
Learn to make parting planes, learn to manipulate your working environment/camera view using the keyboard shortcuts, etc etc

Go work through some of the tutorials for an hour or so, and you'll be well on your way
>>
>>2443966
>Cad for retards
Openscad
>>
>>2443966
Think about what each feature does and relies on, and think about how you can define your parts in a way that will blow up less when you make slight changes.
>>
>>2443971
>>2443972
>>2444014
>>2444020
how the hell do i cut a pocket in these gears? Pocket tool isn't recognizing them as a body or whatever. I'm using the FCGear package
>>
>>2444024
Oh, you're using FreeCAD. Good luck with that, it was jank five years ago and it's probably still jank now.
>>
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>>2444024
difference()
>>
>>2444026
>>2444028
oH bRo JuSt sEleCt uR sUrFacE aNd DraW a SkEtCh aNd ExTrUde Or cUt

my ass
>>
>>2444033
IT'S THAT EASY WHEN YOU USE A REAL CAD PROGRAM AND NOT SOME SHIT ATTEMPT AT COPYING REAL CAD.
>>
nvm i figured it out thanzks
>enduring autistic GUIs
>since '98
I'd like to specially mention linux and FOSS for making my life unnecessarily difficult at all the wrong times. And fuck "programmers."

Minecraft really is the superior cad program.
>>
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>>2444048
You got nothing on my racing doorstop, kid. This is why I am an engineer, and you are a "maker".
>>
>>2444048
>>2444024
The thing that really grinds me gears about these cut rate CAD programs, is that they NEVER fucking label any of those icons, you you have to fumble around in the dark to find out what they do. If you are lucky, a label will pop up when you mouse over one, but if not, you have to just try clicking one, and hopefully you can undo whatever it did wrong.
>>
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Where could I go to use a 3D scanner so I don't have to buy one?
>>
>>2444080
There are probably better dildos on Thingiverse than what you are planning to make.
>>
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>>2444073
>professional doorstop maker
oh my goodness i am out of the water on this one fellas
>>
>>2444048
I use sketchup and blender. Complaining about shitty cad programs being shitty is pointless. They won't get better. Find something that works for you.
>>
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>>2444086
>I use ... blender
Actually I'm totally okay with fumbling around in an unlabeled toolbar menu designed by madmen if Blender's going to be the alternative.
>b-b bu but Blender is-
Show me the Susanne print. I know you have one.
>>
>>2444084
>But where has he been eating his lunch?
>>
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>>2444081
If I was going to make a dildo I'd probably scan something much bigger than my own penis.
>>
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>>2444095
Did you calibrate your e-steps?
>>
>>2444014
>Openscad
That's a weird definition of "retard."
>>
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>>2444088
I get that whenever you try modeling you're stalled by your own limitations and that is aggravating because you have only yourself to blame but to come here with your displaced aggression is just sad. I'd suggest funneling some of this energy into getting good with whatever cad program you like the most but we both know you're lacking that drive or else you'd be doing it right now instead of this.
>>
>>2444020
>define your parts in a way that will blow up less when you make slight changes.
This is the real mastery of CAD right here. Just takes some trial and error at first, but once you start making models that you can easily tweak it becomes straight up addictive. It is my favorite logic puzzle.
>>
>>2444095
You can scale a mouse's dick up to the sive of an elephant's right in the slicer, no CAD required!
>>
>>2441960
Finally got one of these last week and have had 0 failed prints since. After weeks of struggling with multiple issues
>>
>>2444129
There's a limit to a scanner's resolution. Also, I don't want to scan my dick.
>>
>>2444081
>hyena pseudo peen
>0 results
>>
>>2444028
based
>>
>>2444143
Perhaps I can suggest these then? https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-197-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00I3UA89C/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=ECFWTXSQK9UC&keywords=digital+calipers+8+inch&qid=1660033775&sprefix=digital+calipers+%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-6
>>
>>2444158
>$170
>accuracy ±0.02mm / ±0.0010"
Same as Harbor Freight. Must be a limit of the technology.
>>
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>>2440966
Is there a cheap Ikea table that's large enough to hold a CR-10 S5? I bought one but it's too big for my table. I can't have it in the floor because my gf's cat will run into it.
>>
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Not exactly sure what the hell happened at 195 but 190 looks best no? Filament recommends 200-220
>>
>>2444014
Nah. That's CAD for coders. Great for building with primitives or making parametric parts. It gets a bit dodgy when you want to do work with external data like importing meshes and putting holes in it.
>>
>>2440966
anyone buy direct from the anycubic website? i get an error with my address even if i formatted it differently multiple times wtf
>>
>>2444252
Go with what works. The numbers don't matter. These printer's thermal sensors aren't calibrated. 190 might be 200. Who knows.

>>2444322
Nope but that's something you should email them about.
>>
>>2444237
You are paying for the fit and finish with the nice calipers. That little bit of slop and misalignment can throw off your measurements a tiny bit, which doesn't matter all that much until you are measuring parts that are supposed to fit together with a specific type of clearance. Also, if you are a professional, it does help your image to work with good shit versus Harbor Freight. Would you trust a financial manager that has a knock-off Rolex?
>>
>>2443751
>the graphic not to scale
This, because real sizes are too little and hard to draw. I found a photo of a "wrong" leaky nozzle, there is almost no channel. Branded nozzles has at least 0.5 mm length channel (Makerbot). My Trianglelabs nozzles has 1mm channel and noname cheap nozzle less than 0.2 mm and rough hole edge (I'm using microscope to inspect nozzles for scratches).
>>2443709
Prusas (Y-moving bed) has an acceptable quality if not ABS, if not high accelerations and speeds and if Y-guides quality is good. I'm using simple Prisa system printer and it's excellent at 40mm/s and good at 60mm/s. If you're not satisfied by your Prusa just slow it down it, if prints still bad it's probably because of shitty guides and bearings.
>>
dog chewed up the power cord to my printer
can I just use a spare one that goes to an old 650W PC PSU? It fits the plug in the printer
Or is there a difference in those cords
>>
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>>2444328
>You are paying for the fit and finish with the nice calipers. That little bit of slop and misalignment can throw off your measurements a tiny bi
And with all that wonderfulness, your calipers advertise the same lame-ass accuracy as HF.
See picrel.
Those numbers are derived by measuring jo-blocks traceable back to NIST or NMIJ.
I feel we've had this discussion before, you haven't learned anything since.
>>
>>2444353
>>2444328
>>2444237
Machinists here. Arguing about the accuracy of calipers is like comparing the towing capacity of subcompact cars. You don't use calipers for accuracy. They're for quick and dirty measurements. Use a micrometer if you want accuracy.
>>
>>2444237
Or HF is lying about the specs of their garbage.
>>
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>>2444329
Nozzles like this also lead to increased die swell, AKA "this shit is printing at the wrong diameter wtf"
>>
>>2444328
>Would you trust a financial manager that has a knock-off Rolex?
I would never trust a financial manager with a Rolex, no matter if real or fake.
A financial manager worth your trust is the one with the 10$ digital watch.
>>
>>2444361
I want to measure the part, not the flex of the caliper jaws. Simple as.
>>
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>>2444158
I already have a pair of calipers. They're useful, don't get me wrong, but I'm trying to make something that's far more complex than I think I could ever make by simply measuring it all by hand.

I know University of Wyoming has an Artec Space Spider, but I'm not a student, so getting them to let me use it would be a pain. I'm going down to Denver next week, so if I can kill two birds with one stone if I can. I've been trying to find a makerspace or something with a scanner and haven't been having much luck.
>>
>>2444347
Anon, all the C13 plug cords are made to spec (more or less) and can carry 2000W safely.
>>
>>2444437
In that case you really would be better off finding a proper machine, as the consumer level scanners I've seen all spit out garbage (unless something has changed in the last few years).
>>
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>>2444080
>>2444437
Consider Meshroom: https://alicevision.org/#meshroom
>>
>>2444086
Long time ago I read in /3/ that Blender dev(s) avoids to add any CAD-related features because "Blender is for Artists and not for [those boring soulless] engineers". Maybe it's a city legend IDK.
>>
>>2444453
Yeah, cuz fuck having usefulness, the world needs more tranime figurines and also video game characters with proper looking minority hairstyles!
>>
>>2444445
This looks pretty decent, any idea what kind of hardware is required?
>>
>>2444438
Forgive me I know fuckall about electrical anything
But good to know, thanks
>>
is there a difference between a modded ender 3v2 with the sprite extruder and a magnetic bed added and an ender s1?
>>
>>2444436
Then you don't use calipers because they all have that flex. I can get my Mitutoyo to vary +- 0.03mm by not even pressing that hard on the thumb wheel. If you're okay with that variance might as well save the money and get the $12 harbor freight special. If you actually want to measure the part down to (or under) a thou use a mic.
>>
>>2444453
Step 1) Download the CAD Sketcher extension for Blender.
Step 2) Enjoy not having to deal with freecad ever again.
>>
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>>2444440
Yeah, most look like shit, but that Artec Space Spider seems to have pretty good results since it's got a 0.1 mm resolution. But I'm still not going to fork over $24.8k for one.

>>2444445
I've thought about trying to use a webcam or a phone, but I figured it'd be the case that any open source software would be too user-unfriendly for me to be able to use. Meshroom might be my best bet, since the tutorials I've found make it seem easy enough to use.

>>2444531
And I guess I'll have to try this too. (although I love me some boring, soulless parametric modeling)
>>
>>2444323
I Want to stick to what works but I'm scare about that silly string squiggle
>>
>>2444539
I'd do the test a few more times and see what happens. Also looks like you got some z wobble in there. What do test cubes look like?
>>
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>>2444479
No idea; at the very least, pic related. You can poke around to find out, I'm sure; it's a reasonably popular program.

>>2444534
>it seem easy enough to use
It's so easy that quite literally every time I use it (every 2-3 months) I snap the pictures, import them, forget how to use the program, check youtube for "Meshroom Tutorial", and 5 minutes later it's solving for the model. I COULD remember how to use it properly but I don't need to, since it's just 2-3 buttons to press.
>>
>>2444593
>I COULD remember how to use it properly but I don't need to, since it's just 2-3 buttons to press.
That's the sign of a good UI.
>>
What's the cheapest printer you can get that already comes with enclosure out of the box? None of those toy mini printer garbage pls
>>
>>2444783
>cheapest printer that comes with enclosure out of the box
>no toy mini printer garbage
Define cheapest, else you want a contradictory object
>>
>>2444804
I don't know the price range yet, but I'm not interested in those sub $100 printers that only prints like 100x100. What I'm looking for is something that at least has similar performance and build volume as ender 3
>>
>>2444783
you mean comes pre-built not comes with enclosure. jesus anon if you can't even use the words how are you going to manage a printer?
>>
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>>2444783
your are welcom
>>
>>2442666
Why cant get threads? I did threads and do it unless they really fine. But nut and bolt, something like m5 no problem.
>>
>>2443070
CR Touch for is 32 bit board. Bought v2 board for this, works nice.
>>
>>2442695
>but the reality is we know that microplastics are horrible for your body.
the reality is I'm consuming a credit card's worth of micro plastics per year WITHOUT printing. With printing it's like a credit card plus one additional raised digit. 3d printing is what's going to fuck me in the end m8. that's your dad's job because he's hella gay.
>>
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voxelab aquila c2 or ender 3 v2? i dunno realy, price same, opinons about both of these absolutely different
>>
>>2444900
gosh a chinese clone with chineseum parts might be less good than the fucking NAME BRAND? call the local news media anon, you've cracked the case.
>>
>>2444927
Both of them are chinesium though
>>
>>2444895
Funny thing about that quote is that it's not true. To quote from a Nature article published last year.

>No published study has yet directly examined the effects of plastic specks on people, leading researchers say. The only available studies rely on laboratory experiments that expose cells or human tissues to microplastics, or use animals such as mice or rats. In one study7, for instance, mice fed large quantities of microplastics showed inflammation in their small intestines. Mice exposed to microplastics in two studies had a lowered sperm count8 and fewer, smaller pups9, compared with control groups. Some of the in vitro studies on human cells or tissues also suggest toxicity. But, just as with the marine studies, it’s not clear that the concentrations used are relevant to what mice — or people — are exposed to. Most of the studies also used polystyrene spheres, which don’t represent the diversity of microplastics that people ingest.

They force fed mice pounds of plastic pellets and it caused diarrhea and decreased sperm counts. So if we eat a couple tons of plastic a year we might need a shot of pepto and another round in bed. Given the amounts we're actually inhaling that probably equates to a slightly raunchier fart once a decade and a couple swimmy bois chasing their own tails.
>>
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I need a new hotend for e3.
Been using microswiss for couple of years, threads wore out on it after many nozzle changes
Should I get another microswiss or is chinkality spider gooder?
>>
>>2444949
get the e3d v6 if you're upgrading
spider sucks
>>
>>2444949
Dragonfly BMS
>>
>>2444237
The thing about these isn't necessarily accuracy, but repeatability. You really shouldn't consider calipers worth anything below 50 microns. That's what micrometers are for, see >>2444361.
The AOS sensor and the fit and finish of the island chink one is much better than the mainland chink one.
One thing to check is how well they return to zero after multiple uses, along with keeping the jaws aligned and properly flat.
For extruded plastic out of our machines? Get whatever you can get comfortably within your budget. Most of it will require hand fitting anyway and at most we're concerned with tenths of a millimeter on dimensions over 10mm.
>>
>>2444531
But freecad isn't single freeware CAD. There is T-FLEX home version, Fusion 360, etc.
>>
>>2444534
jesus, stop with these faggy avatar images. No one wants to see that shit
>>
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>>2445055
FreeCAD is a specific program. People thinking it's not is due to the same type of retards who call every parametric modeling program AutoCAD no matter what it actually is
>>
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>>2445077
Nah, fuck you.
>>
>>2444531
>CAD Sketcher extension
I'll try that next time I design something.
>>
>>2444531
Interesting. There is something I didn't found myself. Can it work with point-controlled 3D spline surfaces like Rhino? Or build "solid bodies" (meshes with manifold) by their cross-sections?
>>
>>2444103
I have spent the last two days trying to into freecad and, while I'm still retarded, I'm getting the hang of it. Maybe I'll eventually submit and return2blender (with that sketch lib >>2444531 recommends)
>>
>>2444973
>>2444328
>>2444361
fwiw I got some digital calipers from Jaycar a while back while on sale, and they feel just as nice as my dad's 1990s Mitutoyo. So you can get some decent-ish chinkshit that would be good enough for most 3dp uses. If this one breaks then I'll get the good stuff. The bottom-of-the-barrel Bunnings calipers though, they have the jaws bent at the tip, so dont bother with the cheapest shit
>>
How hard is it to print something the size of a thumb, that's reasonably transparent and has a smooth dome on one side? I assume the liquid printers and/or sanding it would be a good idea?
>>
>>2445512
Why do you want a dildo that small?
>>
>>2444949
What benefit would I get from switching out of the stock hotend? I sometimes have clogging issues because of the seating of the PTFE tube after a nozzle change but once I get it sorted it's set it and forget it basically until I decide to mess with it.
>>
>>2445512
On an FDM printer? Lots of hassle, dialing in settings, and massive post-processing. On a resin printer? With a suitable transparent resin, pretty easy. A bit of post-print buffing with a dremel or similar tool can get the dome as shiny-smooth as you want.
>>
>>2441874
The biggest ones are better springs, or silicone springs, some method of bed leveling (bltouch or a capacitive bed probe are the cheapest options, more expensive ones are available). Part of using a probe means upgrading the firmware, so just know it's a bit involved. Part of what you get with a bltouch is a easier way to flash firmware than with a generic capacitive probe.
Then there's smaller upgrades, like a 3d printed exhaust cover, cable clips, a back cover for any open electronics, stuff like that.
>>
>>2442287
I love it anon, it's perfect.
>>
>>2445557
I swapped from stock to microswiss so I can print at higher temps. For nylon, PC and such. Updated marlin too with higher than stock temp limits.
>>
After couple of years, it started clogging, looks like I stripped out the threads from changing nozzles couple dozen times which left a bit of a gap between nozzle and heat brake.
>>
I ordered the dragonfly other anon recommended now, seems like a step up in tech from microswiss.
>>
>>2445087
A coke please, fanta
>>
>>2445559
Dunno m8, dialing in settings sounds pretty damn easy compared to buffing resin prints with the dremel. Also buffing with the dremel is pretty much massive post-processing
FDM remains the best because transparent ABS is a thing so you can skip most manual processing and toss it in a box with some acetone. Leave it in there for a while and you get a nice smooth, transparent part.
>>
>>2445726
>>
Is any ABS-like resin good for figures or does anyone have a recommendation? The figure I want to print and paint has a few small and sharp details, but she is also standing in one feet, so I want it to be strong, even if I will be running a brass tube trough the leg. I am thinking about M58, but I would like to be sure before I buy it, I am not a newbie but neither am a an expert
>>
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i made this TPU filament figure of Juri Han from SFV and found out that the higher you print the more your print vibrats so her fingers are messed up, so if someno ever print a figure with 6.6 inches or higher i suggest you to print it lying down.
>>
>>2445825
m58 is good, there's also the white one that's more brittle but more rigid. I think m58 is probably what you want in that it's ABS-like.
>>
I just ordered an Ender 3 Pro, what are some tweaks and/or upgrades that /diy/ reccomends? I ordered 3 kilos of PLA+ filament from Sunlu, so im set on that regard.
>>
>>2445904
I'm not saying this to be rude and I'm sure some people here can give you some pointers for starting out
But it'll be really beneficial in the long run to learn to find this stuff online yourself, half of 3dprinting especially if you go in with little research is troubleshooting and you gotta learn how to do that well
>>
>>2445904
autobed leveling. Either their crtouch kit or the bltouch kit. A BMG extruder clone wouldn't be a bad idea either. I've heard a lot of people experience the stock extruder arm snapping after a few prints, but you can also just print a backup when you get yours.
>>
>>2445886
Or use supports.

>>2445904
>>2445908
+1 for the bmg extruder. I dunno how many of these have been fixed in the latest Enders but you can print up a screen cover for the back of the lcd, a fan cover, filament guide, and a tool holder. Also you can print up some led light holders and a new part cooler fan shroud.
>>
>>2445954
i used support.
>>
>>2445908
>a lot of people experience the stock extruder arm snapping after a few prints
That was a problem with the original series. Dunno why we're still talking about this in 2022, nobody buys the original Ender 3 anymore.
>>
>>2445895
I think M68 is though enough, M58 may be a bit too flexible and I do not want her to do a smooth criminal on me, specially on how hot it gets here sometimes
>>
>>2445908
>A BMG extruder clone
This can be either the best thing you could do or the worst.
If you're going clone, triangle lab seems to be the only half decent option.
>>
>>2446105
Or just forget about the dual gear memes and get a Titan. BMGs (both originals and clones) have had problems with inconsistent extrusion due to poor gear meshing.
Single gear extruders are more than enough for most printing needs and aren't prone to artifacting.
>>
>>2446110
This too.
It seems like a lot of the time having shitloads of grip on the filament and the torque to force it through does the print no real favours. Issues can range anywhere from die swell to just plain cold extrusion.
>>
>>2446110
works on my machine
>>
>>2445512
transparent resin with a lacquer dip
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yp-AzpqyN_c

*conclusion is you might as well just spray lacquer for less mess LOL

if you're going FDM you can try casting, you can also easily cast in clear acrylic with traditional casting and skip the whole 3D printer element.
>>
>>2446018
*or use supports correctly
>>
>>2446065
M58 is only sort of flexible. It's still pretty rigid like ABS. If you're going to have her stand on one leg just pin it with a metal rod or print a clear support for her other leg. All plastics suffer badly from creep. If you put too much constant stress on them they'll deform slowly over time. Metals are far less likely to do that.
>>
>>2446137
You machine would probably work just as well with a single drive+idler setup. The limitation is much more likely to be in the hotend and meltrate that it is to be in the extruder.
>>
>>2446284
I have a volcano on it
>>
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I wanna buy a 3D printer for myself after working with some partially in my job
The ender 3 s1 pro sounds good but is to expensive for me right now
the normal s1 doesnt have the allmetal sprite extruder and cant handle the highest temps
i could buy an all metal one later as an add on, but the bed wont heat as high still

on the same note i could buy the ender 3 v2 and add the all metal sprite extruder from the get go for a similar price to the normal s1

so regarding nozzle and bed temp the v2 would be superiour and the only drawback i can think of is the singular x axis motor (which could be upgraded later on)

is there another drawback to the v2 that i am not aware of right now? like software or whatever
>>
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>>2446339
i meant z axis motor
>>
>>2446339
The V2 gets you the most printer for your buck. All the bells and whistles the S1 has you can make do without, and they will be cheaper to get aftermarket.
As far as bed temp goes the bed can reach as high as 115, maybe even higher if you put it in an enclosure. Or at least it does on my E3Pro, but I don't know of any changes to the bed heating between the Pro and the V2 so it should apply there as well.
As far as the hotend goes the upgraded creality stuff is garbage because it's made to fit the original fan shroud. All metal hotends need much better cooling which is simply not possible in that limited space. Also beware of other drop in garbage like the microswiss, they have the same issue. The cheapest good all metal that you can buy is the V6. Aliexpress clones are usually good and cost around 12-15$.
The dual Z of the S1 is not very impactful. Single Z is good enough for such a cheap machine and you don't have to align the 2 Z screws.
>>
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Why yes I spend hundreds of dollars on upgrading my printer but I just let it sit and collect dust.
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>>2446362
>but I don't know of any changes to the bed heating between the Pro and the V2
bed temperature
ender 3 s1: 100°C
ender 3 s1 pro: 110°C
creality states that the v2 can only go to 100°C
but most other sites say it is 110°C so i dont know

>All metal hotends need much better cooling
the whole all metal sprite assembly doesnt use any plastic parts so even with stock cooling heat should be able to dissipate
creality claims it can do 300°C - what part do you expect to fail?
>>
Is there a better version of this ender 5 plus firmware? it is the worst ui i've ever encountered and gives you zero control over the machine

I know it was made by chinks but this is bad even for them
>>
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i tried to print a Stl made from a Dae file exported with blender but in the higher layers cura miss theme.
does someone know how to fix it?
i already tried with.
more and less horizontal expansion
orient to different degrees.
>>
>>2446484
I suppose bad STL. No manifold, ill normals etc. You need to heal your model first, google how (I can't remember plugin name). First there is should be manifold (close all holes). And then turn all normals out (in blender menu). Also most of game models isn't printable without heavy editing because there is no manifold (it's not a solid body like in CADs).
>>
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>>2446363
Can I interest you in some calibration and tuning prints, friend?
>>
>>2446484
in prusa slicer I right click, fix with netfabb, and then it just works
>>
>>2446503
thank you anon, i found a proggram to fix it, now i will be able to print my waifu from Splatoon instead of paying a Franklyn for her figma.
i am the same anon who made >>2445886
and i will use the same filament, but i am planing to learn how to make jointed figures, if everything goes right i will find the way to share it here.
>>
>>2446378
>creality states that the v2 can only go to 100°C
It's limited in the firmware but you can raise the limit when you flash your own firmware. As I said before, 115 is certainly doable in open air, with an enclosure you might be able to go even higher.

>creality claims it can do 300°C - what part do you expect to fail?
It's not about parts failing. It's about heat creep. Filament starts melting before it enters the nozzle and that will make material ooze out of the nozzle during travel moves. It will string a fuckton and even if it doesn't you won't get perfect retraction performance. All metal needs a larger heatsink to stay cool which is simply not possible in the limited space of the stock shroud. Get a V6, it won't disappoint.
>>
>>2446378
I believe at some point you have to replace the thermal sensor with a different type as the stock one can't read that high. Maybe in the 300c range but dunno for sure.
>>
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printed a bed an used the form scupting function in fusion to represent the pillows and sheets.
layer lines on the shaped forms look not fabric like.
wonder if this could be smoothed with sandpaper + acetone vapors if printed in ABS.
>>
>>2446647
maybe print them separate vertically
>>
>>2446647
It would be hard to get rid of such layer lines even with acetone smoothing.
This is the kind of stuff that would make good use of non planar printing.
>>
Guys, I'm just understood.... NEVER clean hot plastic from the nozzle tip with steel tools. Are you knew it from start?
>>
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>>2446648
>maybe print them separate vertically
that is an interresting idea, I could print the mattress + sheets vertically and assemble with the bed and pillows.

>>2446678
>This is the kind of stuff that would make good use of non planar printing.
agreed for the sheets it would be the perfect application of non planar printing
>>
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Anyone try making their own auto bed leveling sensor before? I salvaged the ir led and receiver out of an old dvd player. Will be interesting to see what kind of accuracy I can get out of it.
>>
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>>2446867
>auto bed leveling
Redpill me on this. Why shouldn't I just spend the 2-3 minutes it takes to manually level my bed before a long print?
>>
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>>2440966 (Checked)
I'm new to 3dp, how do I stop this print stringing (Exhibits A and B) this overhang so much?
I'm aware that the stringing happens because the printer is just pulling the nozzle across the long edge instead of just printing one long edge and then doing small passes.

>INB4 use supports
Exhibit C, supports look fucking ugly and this is going to be a birhtday present. This NEEDS to look as neatly as possible

Oh yeah, printer is a used but loaded Ender 3 Pro that I bummed off of someone for 90 eurobux, slicer is Cura
>>
>>2446881
I'm doing it for 3 reasons.
a) mesh bed leveling.
b) laziness.
c) to see if I can.
>>
>>2446882
damn bro just buy him a matchbox you fucking scrooge
>>
>>2446894
>a)meme
>b)meme
>c)meme
be honest, you just need to consoom for the sake of it
>>
>>2442287
>all aboard the S.S. /3dpg/
>>
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>>2446896
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Then I'll do it for the memes. Reasons are not important to me.
>>
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>>2446895
Where the fuck can I find an almost 20cm long matchbox that lights up? Anon, A/B and C are obviously different sized testprints, pic related.
Besides, it's not about the money, it's the gesture, by my hourly rate I could buy him a hundred diecast cars.
>>
>>2446906
you going to print the lighting aswell?
>>
>>2446910
No, not really, I also do /ohm/ and /g/ shit and have a lot of LEDs sitting around. I might also them up to an arduino nano (overkill I know, but I got like a hundred sitting around here gathering dust) and do some other things like sound or add an rtc and make it light up every hour or something. Dunno.
>>
>>2446919
you are a good father to the child
sadly im only a shitposter in this thread and cant help you what so ever
good luck pal, youre on your own with this one
>>
>>2446919
Arduino with a rtc to light up a car every hour? Bro... 555.
>>
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>>2446899
>S.S. /3dpg/
>>
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>>2446922
Not my son, just a good gearhead friend who appreciates things like these. If I had children, wew lad the things I would do for them. I'm in my early-mid twenties, so nothing's lost yet anyways lmao.

Also, checked Anon, thanks and Godspeed on your shitposting journey, God knows I used to be one as well.

>>2446928
Not once an hour like a timer, once an hour like every full hour, correct me if I'm wrong but to my knowledge a 555 cannot tell that it is 10pm.
If I actually do this, I'll go really balls-deep with DCF-77 so he doesn't have to set up the clock every time the batteries run out:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0B1VD389M/

>>2446882
Pic rel is what I'm going on about. These layers droop but if I support them they look like dogshit. Is there no way I can force cura to slice it to print the other way?
>>
>>2446963
found your problem
your infill is jewish
>>
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>>2446867
>what kind of accuracy I can get out of it.
Only way to obtain accuracy with IR is a mechanical tab closing light path. It's a precise mechanic and requires skill to do. Accuracy depends on light path diameter. I think if you can drill 0.1 hole in thin metal it will work.
>>2446894
>a) mesh bed leveling.
Unironically curved beds is a pain in the ass. Especially with ultra thin layers.
>>
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>>2446963
555 can't tell it's 10pm but you can put a reset button on it, press it once at the top of an hour and it'll keep sync for months.

What version Cura you using? Cura 5.1.0 always draws walls diagonally for me.
>>
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>>2446992
5.1.0
I have to print it at an 45° angle, could it be because of this? picrel.
>>
>>2446996
Fuck, it is. How do I rotate this printing "angle"?
>>2446989
Also, if I actually do this thing I want it to do custom events like playing audio files on special days and all.
>>
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>>2446996
Tested, yep that's why. I think Cura optimizes for x/y movement to reduce backlash. No idea how to change it. At least you know why.
>>
I was a dumbass and didn't pay attention when I got a new hotend for my ender 3, buying a 12v kit on accident and not noticing until it was all wired up and assembled. I'm going to try and fix that hotend I got. Since its a 12v kit and I need a 24v, I should be able to just replace the heating cartridge and thermistor with 24v versions, right? The fans and physical hotend should be good?
>>
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>>2446989
Guess that'll be v2 after v1 fails. I'm going to try to bounce the ir off the table. I mitigated the ambient light problem by pulsing the IR led at 12khz and wiring a basic pulse detector circuit. That gets piped to an opamp to boost signal and act as a schmitt trigger. Is working on the bench. Got to move it onto protoboard and figure out a way to mount it before it can break my heart.

>>2447002
You should just need a new cartridge unless you melted the thermistor. They should be the same but I've never checked. When you turn on the printer is the temperature reading correct?
>>
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>>2447006
What in gods name is this circuit? This is something my old electronics mentor would do

Just ram the output into a microcontroller analogue port and output the values over serial to your pc.
It takes like 12 lines of code, a single resistor and some jumper cables and will certainly take less time than whatever you're doing plus you get a nice graph on your pc instead of that 1990's ocilliscope
>>
how do you guys cut the feed tube for it to be completely perpendicular
I put it trough a spare adapter and cut it with a razor blade
>>
>>2447006
I dont think the thermistor is melted. The temp reading seemed correct, it was just going way over then way under the temp, and when I started to work on the PID I realized it was the wrong voltage
>>
>>
>>2447080
With a boxcutter, rotating the tube for ideal cut. Second try was successful. Also I use small diameter tube (blue) instead of normal so bowden works like direct with short retract. And tube ends where nozzle starts (barrier with big bore).
>>
>>2447080
I chuck it up in a lathe. Gets a bit whippy though!
>>
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>>2447190
Whaddya got there, anon?
>>
>>2447197
oil filter obviously
>>
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>>2447202
You think you're being funny?
>>
>>2447207
no sir im a good citizen, look at my lawnmower handle
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>>2447000
Checked, thanks Anon
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I just got an Ender 3 Pro, first time using a 3D printer. Filament tends to pool under the nozzles home position, making a little bead that forms there. Is this normal? The nozzle won't get damaged by this will it? I break it off every time I start a new print.
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>>2447594
A little pooling while preheating or just after a print is normal. For it to happen the nozzle needs to be idle but at temperature which shouldn't happen often.
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Im trying to adjust vref on a cr10 max for the steppers, but its reading 18 volts screw head to case
Is the board toast or do I have ground loop somewhere?
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>>2447604
Maybe the case isn't directly bonded to the negative rail. You should take measurements from the terminals.
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File: posable boy - copia.jpg (114 KB, 1344x2000)
114 KB
114 KB JPG
Flex anon here, i put some wires inside this inkling boy limbs and now he is posable, i will not have to pay a franklin for his figma.
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>>2447649
okay so I just shorted the small power supply legs, and now the pots read 1.96
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>>2447653
What are "the small power supply legs" and why would you short them out? Pots? You mean the adjustment pot? 1.96 what? Volts, amps, ohms, tacos?

Maybe you should just buy a new power supply.
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>>2447658
I shorted the 24 volt rail to itself which lead to the board reporting 1.96 volts when checked
I have now reduced this to 1-1.1 volts in accoradance with tiny machines
I have no idea why nothing flashbanged but Ill take it
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>>2447664
>Shorted the 24 volt rail to itself
Bro I love you but you really need to lay off the drugs.
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>>2447652
Take a heat gun or a torch lighter and you can clean up a lot of those strings.
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>>2447672
it worked
thats what I count here
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>>2447652
inkling boy more like stringling boy amirite
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Pin wheel escapement operating successfully. Idk why the webm pauses at the end there, seems my vp9 encoding is fucked.
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>>2447720
where do you guys prefer to get all of your metal shaft bits and springs and whatnot from?
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>>2447721
That rod is from a scanner I took apart ~14 years ago. The 3mm shafts are cut from stock I ordered from McMaster. Bearings and 1.5mm x 8mm pins also from McMaster. Screws and heat set inserts from aliexpress. If you can afford to wait and quality isn't a high concern, order from Aliexpress. If you need something very specific, an industrial supplier like McMaster, MSC, misumi, etc. may be your best option.



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