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File: BeFunky-collage.jpg (1.42 MB, 3264x3264)
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Last thread: >>2430095

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://printables.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
Is the voron 2.4 worth it if building and understanding 3d printers is not my hobby? I want a nice printer and don't mind building it myself from scratch but if its not much better than just spending 1.5 on a half assembled printer that's just as good I wont bother.
>>
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>>2435612
Get a micron mini delta and understand by printing instead of paying someone else to print the parts to your printer.
>>
>>2435612
Voron printers are great if you aren't in a rush, and want to learn a fuck ton of nitty gritty stuff about how it works. The physical assembly isn't really that rough, but wiring and getting the firmware set up are both a little on the high end of skill level if you haven't done that before.
I love my 2.4 though, the 300mm I built seems just about right, but I probably would have gone with a 250mm if those kits were available from Formbot at the time.
What kinds of stuff are you planning on printing? If you don't see yourself printing ABS, then you may not really need an enclosed printer, in which case you may not really need a coreXY either, but then again it's always nice to have the option.
Printing drone parts or TPU in general? Get a printer with direct drive.
Other than that, auto bed leveling and bed mesh are really nice, especially as you get into bigger build plate sizes.
>>
>>2435612
If you can follow step-by-step instructions, you can do the actual build part no problem. The hard part is doing a good job of wiring. It takes a little skill with a crimper and a decent amount of common sense.
>>
>>2435623
Carbon fiber nylon PEEK/PEK PC
I print alot of stuff went trough 1.5KG in the past week and have 2 printers going 24/7 I just need another one to get more parts out faster and a upgrade in speed/quality

I want to get a LDO 350MM kit

>>2435615
I can print all my voron printed parts from my ender 3
>>
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Just picked up a Revo hemera to replace the AliExpress hosted that kept jamming up on a weekly basis.

Printing reliably but reliably shit.
I don't know what to do.
Running ender 3 + hemera revo + klipper, I already calibrated esteps, stepper vref, temp and linear pressure advance.
>>
>>2435612
The MRW Voron 0.1 is pretty much the equivalent of a prusa MK3 kit, but for a voron in terms of assembly difficulty, other than having to print your own parts. The add ons they tack on to the LDO kit are top notch.

https://mandalaroseworks.com/products/voron-0-1-kit
>>
>>2435657
>PEEK/PEK PC
Look into the DoomCube then also, it's V2.4/V0.1 based, but uses fancy extrusions and glass panels get that chamber temp way up there.
>>
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Printed some organization for my hobby area.
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>>2435684
A few more days of printing will even it out.
>>
>>2435686
>A beam of sunlight though the window blocks your path.
PLA: not even once.
>>
>>2435678
holy shit that thing is unreal
>>
>>2435694
The only thing I would add to thats is a dual extruder or at that point a E3d tool changer and a liquid cooled titan aqua
>>
>>2435688
I do not understand this reference. But that is okay friend.
>>
>>2435700
hes mad that you're using PLA, despite that looking more like PETG, and is implying that the heat of the sun through your window will melt the whole thing.
>>
>>2435704
Ohhhhhhhh. It is petg though. I print just about everything out of petg.
Thanks the the explanation.
>>
>>2435659
>>2435659
I've never had such a shitty print i really don't know what to do
>>
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just printed my first TPU thing with my Ender 3 with Direct drive modification.
but i dont know what to Print now.
Any suggestion /DIY/?
>>
>>2435459
telegram groups
>>
>>2435684
how do the bottom of those hooks look? I'm having terrible trouble getting a smooth bottom on my PETG.
>>
>>2435614
I mean I do print things other people see instead of just parts for my printer.
>>
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Is there any difference between the photon mono x with yellow vs green hood other than the color?
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>>2435805
Not terrible, not great. .2 print height so its nothing special. I get alot of beading on the bottoms but I just take an xacto knife to them. They are toleranced for the pegboard so its fine.
>>
>>2435659
Try reprinting with 90% flow (Cura) or 0.9 extrusion multiplier (Prusaslicer/Superslicer).
>>
>>2435863
That look like overextension to you? I'll go down a notch, what's a sensible value? Any way to calibrate except printing little coins?
>>
>>2435872
Here's the confusing thing. The Ender3, out of the factory, underextrudes by around 10%, which keeps things easy for the end user so he doesn't have to muck with the flow setting in the slicer.

A calibrated extruder will actually overextrude PLA by around 10%, If you were printing a different plastic, say ABS, it will be overextrude by maybe around 3%.

It's easier to tell if you're actually overextruding by looking at the finish on the top layer, but I do think in your case it's overextruding because as too much plastic is laid down the nozzle squeegees the excess plastic to the side, resulting in shit looking walls.
>>
>>2435659
Can you give us a photo of the printer? I just want to confirm you've not dropped it or spilt mayonnaise over the extruder
>>
Literally just never 'calibrate your e-steps'. Just calibrate your flow and set that as your e-steps. Don't bother with the 'wall thickness test', do something like the superslicer flow disc tests or actual real world prints.

For Enders on Klipper you'd want to set rotation distance to 32.

If you fuck up your pressure advance/linear advance you're going to end up with underextrusion, for Enders you should use 0.4 on Klipper.

For that fucked up box you should try printing something vase mode. Your shit looks like Z binding or you turned on Z hop for some strange reason.
>>
>>2435878
That makes sense! Thanks for sharing
>>
'Get an enclosure they said'. Fucking nothing but top curling.

"Get an all metal hotend they said", fucking none of these filaments want anything near as high as 240.

On the plus side my Nylon, ASA and PETG calicats look better tha PLA now.
>>
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>>2435924
I'm quite happy with the way it looks
>>
Bruh where's your tensioners
>>
>>2435610
are .6mm nozzles worth it? I've got an ender 5 plus and I wanted to see if there are any big issues with it.
>>
>>2435738
Camera cases/protection and drone parts come to mind, but really anything that you will be using daily works really well in TPU. You can fine tune the stiffness a lot with your wall count and infill percentage, and also you can vary the top and bottom wall count to get stiffness or softness in different areas of the print.
>>
>>2436096
They are cheap, so throw on on your next filament order because fuck it. The thing with bigger nozzles though, is that if you print at the same speed you might start outrunning your hotend, so you may have to re-learn it a bit to find out how much you can push it. With something like an Ender though, you are kinda limited by your velocity and acceleration anyways, so if you can put down more plastic for the same motion (and fewer passes) then you can definitely shave off quite a bit of print print time, with a negligible decrease in quality.
You will probably want to increase your cooling too; thick ropes of plastic jizm are harder to cool than a pathetic little plastic dribble.
>>
>>2436096
Honestly I switched to .6 a while ago for the speed buff and it's worked pretty well for me so far. I don't really notice it except on smaller/finer parts
>>
Does anyone have any experience with clay printing?
>>
>>2436257
I doubt you're just looking for a "yes/no" answer so just ask the question you were going to ask
>>
>>2436287
Alright, is it shit?
>>
>>2436288
It depends on what you want to use it for. Making neat art? Easy. Making practical things? Harder, unless you really know what you're doing, because it's way different to use than regular FDM.
>>
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Printed a scale model armchair overnight.
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>>2436288
In the picture you posted? It might be shit, but it looks a little sandy.
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>>2436257
I have some experience printing with wax.
>>
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Does anyone own the ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4K 3D Printer?

I wanna make anime figures, and I already own a FDM printer.
>>
>>2436292
ls the complete... terrarium(?) something you'll be able to post when it's done?
>>
>>2436309
Yes I will post updates here.
It is going to be quite long before it is finished, the flooring and painting will be massive.
>>
>>2436316
Lizard in a business suit.
>>
Printing large flat surfaces with resin printers is a bad idea because of how much it adheres to the bed right?
Does a flexible build plate circumvent this?
I want to print what is essentially an enclosure that is as big as my printer allows.
>>
Anyone got any nice sources for free Warhammer stl files?
Torrents, Megas, anything like that is appreciated.
>>
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>>2436348
>>
>>2436348
>>2435772
>>
Any recommendation for larger fdm printers. I'm thinking getting the anycubic Kobra Max or Sovol SV03
>>
>>2436257
no. josef prusa hasn't made a clay printer yet
>>
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>>2436307
Phrozen 8k Mighty it's so fucking smoooth. there is a mini 8k too if you don't need your anime tiddys to be too big.
>>
Where can I find housing/ shells/ replacement parts for repairing device
>>
>>2436394
Too expensive: $699.99
>>
>>2436462
the mighty is $1k, I haven't priced the mini. why in year 2020+x would you bother printing at 4k?
>>
>>2436359
>telegramfag is back at it
>>
>>2436497
?
>>
>>2436348
you'd probably have better luck finding stuff like that in the resin general on /tg/
>>
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>>2436507
>>2436505
any ideas on this? another pic
>>
>>2436534
I'm trying to get the base layers down for a scorpion evo upper
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>>2436305
Im all ears.
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>>2436534
Have you tried using a skirt?
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>>2436556
Yeah, its amazing.
>>
>>2436534
only try one thing at a time
raft or skirt
clean bed
raise bed temp
lower nozzle temp
>>
>>2436557
would still breed even though the funko pop collection is a red flag
>>
>>2436562
The funko pop collection, that's the red flag here?
>>
>>2436556
i should have thought of that. let me see how it works. I really want to get ti done. I finally took of that nightmare ABL. does the nozzle look too close to the bed?
>>2436559
I'm going to reslice it now.
>>
>>2436416
Don't be lazy, this is /diy/.
Design your own. Put on the internet for free. Help the community thrive. Make (((them))) seethe.
>>
>>2436534
Check if the cooler is active.
>>
>>2436557
>>2436562
>>2436575
die coomers
>>
>>2435615
My delta seems to have some kind of underextrusion problem on only one side of the models/print like pic related, ive tightened all belts as much as itll let me but I cant get it to go away, any suggestions anons,
using a cracked Simplify3d for my slicer, but it seems to happen with cura too,
>>
>>2436770
your cooling fan shroud is probably highly directional
>>
>plug in printer
>drag my fingers across the metal
>fuzzy feel on my fingertips, like when you stick your tongue on a 9V battery
uuuuuuuh is this bad?!
>>
>>2436991
Your printer is not grounded properly.
Check cable, check power socket.
>>
Everything AC will always have high voltage on the case. It shouldn't be above 2 milliamps tho. It's especially noticable if you touch the case of two things plugged into different outlets.

In other news, left a ton of calibration cats hidden around the neighborhood like easter eggs.
>>
I've never had problems like this, that'd this called? One face much worse than the others for some reason
>>
>>2437129
I can't really see what's going on with the face with the gloss of the filament but I can see from the edge that you definitely need to calibrate your bed and hot end PID
>>
>>2437080
Based tactical litterer.
>>
I want to get my first printer. I see that there are tons of Ender Clones that are cheaper. Is there a reason I should definitely get an Ender 3 V2 over an Aquila? Please don't hate me for asking.
>>
>>2437080
>In other news, left a ton of calibration cats hidden around the neighborhood like easter eggs.
cute, if I was a little kid that shit would make my day
>>
>>2437194
Depends on how popular the clone is
Ender 3 is a good starter for a budget printer because it's so widely used that there's documentation and user troubleshooting online for almost everything that can go wrong with it, if you get an obscure printer and have issues arise it's going to be harder to fix them if they're specific to that printer
>>
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Printed jigs to have square joints for gluing foam boards.
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>>2437214
are you an alchy-tech, anon?
what printer do you use?
>>
>>2437219
Prusa i3 MK3S+, I had a piece of shit 7 years old reprap that I thankfully threw in the trash a few months ago. Best decision of my life.
Not architect, I am just severely autistic.
>>
>Prusa finally, FINALLY releases beta firmware for Mini+ with wi-fi support

it's been 10,000 years...
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v4.4.0-beta2
>>
>>2437214
now you need a 45º cutting jig to go with it. is this for trad glue or hot? what do you make with foam? I do a lot of board game inserts.
>>
Every 6 to 10 prints I find I have to relevel the bed on my Ender 3. This normal or an issue? Glass bed, stock ender except extruder.
>>
>>2437283
do you take the bed off of the printer before removing the print?
>>
>>2437267
burn the sneakernet bridge
send the usb drives into oblivion
>>
>>2437272
using trad glue.
making scale models of seagoing vessels cabins and the foam boards are used to represent the bulkheads and floor.
would like to replace the foam boards by acrylic boards in the future in order to improve the result, not sure if it is a good idea.
>>
>>2437286
Nope. They come right off after letting the bed cool. I don't know how the bed is going out of level. Seems to always be moving up though. Maybe I should mark the adjustment wheels and see if they're spinning while it's printing.
>>
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I hate the switch to all metal. There's no place like home.There's no place like home.There's no place like home.There's no place like home.There's no place like home.
>>
>>2437316
you should be taking the bed off to remove them, even if they pop right off that could be accumulating and causing those leveling issues after multiple prints
>>
>>2437316
get the silicone spacers. its easier for me to level the bed with them since they're under more tension
>>
>>2437317
What did you screw up?
>>
>>2437321
Maybe but it's a glass surface so pretty easy to tell if there's some leftover plastic I need to scrap off.

>>2437323
That's one thing I forgot to mention. I got yellow springs on it. Think that could be the issue? Thought they were better than factory springs.
>>
>>2437328
the silicone blocks have very little give compared to the springs. they wont collapse for a few years or so
>>
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I'm trying to make an air assist system for the laser cutter of my Ender 3 and make it blow through the aluminum pipe in pic related.
However the air flow through it (through a piece I designed and threw away) is much less than the one directly at the output of the fan.
What do you recommend me to do to improve the design?
>>
>>2437294
Believe me I intend to

16 printers with three USB drives each
plus six extra overall
end it, Josef
>>
>>2437296
>scale models of seagoing vessels cabins
Would like to see that

>>2437335
All laser cutters I use and have ever used have an air compressor for air assist, never a fan. Find the shittiest little airbrush compressor you can get
Add a offboard air compressor and snake a tube to your hotend
It shouldn't take much jiggering to be able to turn the compressor on and off automatically
>>
>>2437343
Three questions.
How many watts is your air compressor?
Is it AC or DC?
Is it directed to the laser beam or it just blows through the cutting surface?
>>
>>2436544
You're making an ass out of yourself.
>>
>>2437356
The shitty airbrush compressor I have is this
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Runner-Compressor-TC-320/dp/B07ZQL2BHQ
I can't imagine it wouldn't work for the wattage of whatever laser you're using.

The air assist ideally passes over the laser lens to provide cooling and then out through the same nozzle the laser is exiting. But aiming it right at the focal point of the laser is almost as good - it's meant to blow the vaporized material up and out or down and through instead of the vaporized material oozing out onto your work surface.

The laser I have at work where I know for certain both the laser tube wattage and air PSI are 30W max and 25 PSI respectively. I also use a 100W laser with maybe 30 PSI and a 650mW laser with no air assist. I've cut and/or engraved paper, cardboard, acrylic, leather, and foam, so I can try to answer more questions.
>>
>>2437326
>>2437326
Filament wouldn't load throug the heatbreak, even after torching it. Then when I'd manually load it by removing the bowden it'd clog within a minute even with retraction off and I'd have to pull the bowden off, cut and manually load it again.

Guess the all metal just hates the silk I was using. Guessing it was puffing up before the heatbreak, switched filament and no more problems. Weird. It was originally clogged with the same filament that's working now.
>>
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this makes me feel like a fucking caveman
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olXqJadb6BM
>>
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Tfw ender 3 at 50mm/s
Wish me luck bros
>>
>local printer shop stocks a new chink pla that sells for like 7 bucks per kg
>bought 2 rolls because what the fuck
>one roll look pretty okay but the other one is so floppy, to the point that i can tie into a knot and it won't snap
>immediately jammed my printer because it doesn't wanna push through the extruder and instead it fucking clogged the insides of my bowden tube

That's 100% on me, I don't know what i was expecting
>>
>>2437602
>local printer shop
what is this like?
>>
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What's the best way to go about printing a PC case with this look?
>>
>>2437606
resin printer none of which are big enough.
>>
>>2437364
I didnt mean to, it was an accidental joke i guess.

Im really interested.
>>
>>2437606
God, how I miss those kinds of electronics. Not all of them were good, but damn if they didn't LOOK good. That shade of red on the Mac in the top left is still hands-down my favorite.

But yeah, resin printer. Maybe some of the larger formats will let you do GBA-sized stuff these days.
>>
>>2437606
You *can* print PC with an FDM printer, however its not easy at all.
I think your best bet for a similar look with larger objects is probably a clear PETG and printing very thing walls.
>>
>>2437267
>massive delay from networking stack issues
I knew it, embedded networking stack are garbage, all of them. Not surprised thats the main reason for the delay. The only alternative is using embedded linux but of course that costs a fair bit more. I dont think there are any printers in the prusa mini price range that is network-enabled?
>t. ex-firmware engineer

>>2437294
>>2437342
they still need USB drives attached for storing the uploaded G-codes by the look of it, but no more sneakernet needed. I'd still avoid upgrading to this release straight away and have other people test it first.
>>
>>2437606
There is an RC geek from some Germanic country that discusses large prints and how to bond them.

It's a long video but lots of info after he gets going

https://www.fedex.com/fedextrack/?trknbr=579343468576&trkqual=12024~579343468576~FDEG
>>
>>2437770
hey anon, thanks for your fedex shipping info, maybe delete that, unless you like having cum delivered to your mailbox.
>>
How am I supposed to put holes in a reciprocating saw blade with just a drill and regular drill bits?

https://www.printables.com/model/224950-spray-paint-can-shaker-for-reciprocating-saw
>>
>>2437770
There's something really funny about this
>>
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>>2437770
>no signature required
Yo ho ho, this porch pirate be ready to sail.
>>
>>2437770
I like Oregon its a comfy state. Except Portland though.
>>
>>2437798
maybe you can get away with using good epoxy or a clamp
>>
>>2437846
I don't have enough used reciprocating blades to do everything I want, it would be great to have one blade with different attachments

For that matter, does anywhere sell like saw blade blanks?
>>
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>>2437910
see this is a good 3d print, this is why I come here
>>
>Hillsboro

The land of Hindu nepotism.
>>
>>2437850
you could take a piece of good sheet metal and form it so it has that hole and tang to fit into the recip saw. or you maybe you can buy a saw blade like this that already is slotted?
>>
>>2435659
Why do you have so much fucking hair on your thumb
>>
>>2437910
Nice duck.
>>
>>2437910
4wdd
>>
>>2437798
You could probably get away with more screws to clamp along a longer length.
Either way, it seems down right idiotic for anything but a near empty can.
>>
>>2437770
Anon, your package is one day ahead of schedule.
>>
>>2437798
>put holes in a reciprocating saw blade with just a drill and regular drill bits?
Saw blades aren't magic anon. As long as it's the right sized bit, what you have is going to go through metal. Clamp it down to piece of scrap wood so it doesn't spin, maybe put a drop of oil where the hole will be, and drill. If your drill is adjustable, max torque, slow speed, but even if it's not it will work.
>>
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>>2437798
>>2438045
saw blades aren't magic anon, it's just a thin piece of metal. you should be able to substitute another thin piece of metal as long as you don't have a quicklock chuck.

if you don't have the perfect piece of scrap metal you can probably print the same thing with 3 screws on each side of the blade s.t. drilling is not necessary.

last you could just be a man and shake your fucking can with your fucking arm for 60 seconds. you use the same muscles as you do to fap and I know you can go at least 2 minutes at that champ.
>>
>>2437910
fukkin beaut. got a file for us anon?
>>
>>2438054
thing:5438583
>>
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Hey guys I have a cr-10s pro, and I am wanting to put raspberry pi inside, with buck converter for the pi, and maybe a usb powered hub for the logitech webcam which might be optional and explore my options on that.

With pic related I noticed all the screw terminals are being used, would it be fine to add more on the same screw terminal?

When it comes to power, I checked the power consumption with my sonoff s31, and it seems while the printer is heating the bed it goes up to 3.9A then goes down as it gets closer to the requested temperature, and the hotend uses ~.6A the meanwell power supply current is rated from 0-21A.

>https://www.mouser.com/c/ds/power/power-supplies/switching-power-supplies/?m=MEAN%20WELL&series=RSP-500

and rpi typically is rated for 4A and less, so I should be fine to add it to my power supply, right?
>>
>>2438096
Yes, from the PSU's perspective the Pi will be drawing less than 1A.
>>
>>2438098
Awesome, I figured as much. I guess I was just overthinking it.
>>
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Finished building a Prusa mini+ kit (first 3d printer). This is what the "first layer calibration" looks like.
When I load filament it goes well then it purges a bit as expected, but it doesn't really stop. For a while there will be filament coming out very slowly. It also happens at the end of the layer test (top right of pic is the excedent). What could be causing this? I've cleaned the nozzle several times already.
I think it might be the cause for the over extruding at the beginning too? (bottom left of picture)
And then the direction changes are all wrong too...
What do I have to do to fix all this?
>>
>>2438122
>For a while there will be filament coming out very slowly
this is normal until the nozzle cools down
>over extruding at the beginning too
this is actually too much of a distance between bed and nozzle and not overextrusion
>What do I have to do to fix all this?
sell it and live a happier life. 3dp isn't worth it.
>>
>>2438122
bottom left is your purge line, where it equalizes the pressure in the nozzle before moving to the actual print, it'll almost always be a thicker output than a regular line
your nozzle will always ooze when heated, don't worry about it unless the ooze is not getting dragged off when the purge line/brim/skirt are extruding, then just watch your print starts and tweezer the excess away manually as it's beginning the purge line
as for the rest of the line it looks mostly good and level outside of those couple areas with no adhesion and the level square in the top left, I don't know what goes into leveling a prusa or setting the z offset so I would start with looking up a video on that and trying that as a step, also remember to keep that bed clean with windex/isopropyl cause that will ruin adhesion too
most likely you need to decrease the z offset a small amount judging by the square in the top left
>>
Is there a command to bypass klipper's annoying "Must home axis first" message? SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION works as a workaround for my purposes but is not ideal.
>>
pla+: yeh, ney, or it depends?
>>
>>2438214
basically no point in printing PLA when you can print PLA+
>>
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>>2438228
Youtube scientists say PLA is stronger but more brittle. PLA+ is weaker but more ductility.
>>
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Planning on printing a large track for my whiteboard. Going to make it super easy to switch between TV and whiteboard. Downside is that it's probably going to take 15 days straight of printing :(

The slot is sized for a 22mm wide bearing
>>
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got around to doing the table numbers
>>
why the FUCK is the filament slipping on the extruder? Fucking sick of this. No blockages, I can push the filament through just fine and have the string turd out the nozzle so what gives. No matter how much I tighten or fuck with it, I get small cum-drop style lines on the print. Fuck am I burning out on this.
>>
>>2438293
post print
>>
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I had a problem with my ender 3 v2 making giant ugly Z seams in the last thread. Turns out the power loss save function saves to the SD card at the end of each layer which pauses the printing, and because cheap Chinese trash it takes half a second to save. Filament was oozing out when it paused. Turned the power save off and it's much better now
>>
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>>2438294
the part that IS printing is only because I wiggle the extruder and force filament through gently myself with my fingers before setting it back by itself. It continues good on its own for a few minutes before doing the dribble 'dotted line dribble' pattern or not laying filament at all.

Using some hairspray for adhesion.
>>
>>2438312
your nozzle is way too close to the bed
>>
>>2438315
even if I microstep it up, it makes no difference, the filament kind of globs and curves up on the nozzle instead of sticking to the plate. Only way I can get it to stick is by getting it super close to the plate but even then it gives up after a few minutes.
>>
>>2438316
cold pull and also rape the nozzle with an acupuncture needle
>>
>>2438318
will do anon, thanks.
>>
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My soldering iron came without this part that holds secures the tip to the handle, so I printed one. I expected PLA to melt, it apparently it soften first few times I used it, but it seems it has been annealed.
>>
>>2438341
>holds secures
I need some sleep.
>>
>>2438122
Should have bought a kingroon.
>>
>>2438273
...have you considered a 0.8mm nozzle and perhaps a second printer?
>>
>>2438341
maybe the heater is right at the tip and it's barely cool enough by the time it reaches the handle that pla doesn't melt
>>
>>2438341
Are you sure you assembled that properly?
I don't see how that sleeve is holding anything.
https://youtu.be/0rU5ik0f1Hw
the wrench in this video is pure autism.
>>
>>2438355
>the wrench in this video is pure autism
ys dat anon
>>
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Printing a giant Ornstein figure.

But.

I have an annoucement to make. I HATE SILK PLA!!!! This bitch ass filament has special dainty needs for its posh material. You can put regular PLA through the plumbing of a toilet and it'll turn out smooth, but Silk PLA won't even print a fucking tiny circle. Not even through the most precise of engineered printer or through the perfect temp, it won't stick to Hairsprayed and glued glass.

I got it working after 4 days of tinkering with settings, though.

Model is free from ddd87 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5428744/files
>>
>>2438352
I actually totally spaced using a larger nozzle, pretty sure I have a assortment pack here somewhere. thanks
>>
>>2438366
Depends on the silk pla. I've had one that barely printed, and the parts broke and cracked like they were made from cornflakes. Another printed with the bog standard pla settings, and it's hard and strong as anything printed from normal pla.
>>
I think I fucked up the nozzle thread when screwing in a new tip. I must have been screwing it in at an odd angle because now NO tip screws on straight, they are all kinked at 10 degrees or so. What is the name of the part that the extruder screws into? I may need to get a new one of those (or two, if I wind up fucking up the screw thread on the new one)
>>
>>2438382
I'm using CC3D. I've heard there's better filaments but I was too quick to buy. Luckily It's working just fine for me now. End product is just as sturdy as regular PLA but damn is the process anxiety-inducing.
>>
>>2438214
PLA+ isn't a standard. It is now largely marketing lingo, anything that isn't pure PLA is PLA+. Some PLA+ is going to have better properties than others based on the additives used.
>>
>>2437649
all my girl cousins had that red imac.
>>
>>2438214
>>2438260
And since "weaker but more ductile" also applies to a bunch of other materials that do certain things better than PLA+, you'd often be better served by, say, PETG in situations where you want those properties over stiffness/strength. Unless you need a specific formulation of PLA+ for a specific task where it does well, that is. For example, I keep some Volcano PLA on hand in case I heed something really heat-resistant. It has virtually no distortion during annealing, and once annealed, it can withstand 180C or so. But again, if PETG is suited to a task, I wouldn't use Volcano PLA for it. As a generic sculptural or prototyping material, PLA+ can be just fine, but it's usually more expensive than regular PLA.
>>
>>2438369
If you really want to lay plastic, look into a 1.8mm CHT and an upgraded heater cartridge.
>>
Ungraded to the latest marlin and now when I start printing the hotend will go up to around ~196c drop off to ~190c before going to the targeted 200c. I'm guessing this is some new thermal runaway check to make sure the thermistor is working. Anyone know the name of the settings for it?
>>
>>2438053
>you could just be a man and shake your fucking can with your fucking arm for 60 seconds

I never said I was shaking paint cans
I'm shaking jars of lye, water, and mimosa hostilis root bark powder

i'll let you google what the end product is going to be

>3 screws on each side of the blade
i'll probably end up doing this though
>>
>>2437741
>they still need USB drives attached for storing the uploaded G-codes
no budget for some on board memory?
they really are aggressively mediocre at times
>>
>>2438470
Networked 3d printers is how the robot apocalypse gets going, anon.
>>
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>>2438355
Its not a hakko, its a t12. Pic related a similar soldering iron to mine.

>>2438353
Kinda, I still smelled that slightly sweet PLA the first time I used it. And if I put my finger next to it, it gets hot enough that I had to remove it.
>>
>>2438276
I remember you.
>>
>>2438312
if it continues like this and prints in whispy irregular layers you need to do a cold pull with nylon. or just rebuild.
>>
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>>2438497
better not ever leave it on
>>
Can you print PEEK on a enclosed voron 2.4
Some ultra boomers are trying to tell me the it can't handle the velocity and acceleration of PEEK and it will melt all the belts and break the stepper motors

Even though you only need to have a 100c chamber according to the manufacturer
>>
>>2438531
yeah, you're good. what could possibly go wong? point a space heater at it and it won't even shrink that much.
>>
>>2438135
>>2438144
Thanks guys, useful information. It was the z offset, nozzle was too high. It's looking good now, off to try a print
>>
>>2438531
>velocity and acceleration of PEEK
what retardation is this? PEEK prints slowly, typically no faster than 60mm/s.
You do however need an actively heated chamber, otherwise you're just wasting money on expensive filaments.
>>
>>2438557
I have absolutely fucking idea what they are talking about either. This was in the voron discord too.
>>
>>2438470
>no onboard memory
I'd say this is the right engineering decision:
- memory size does not have a hard limit from the factory, end user can attach and store 16GB worth of G-code if they want (unlike say, macbooks and their soldered SSD)
- flash wear is not an issue since USB drives are user-replaceable, unlike soldered-in flash
- no need to spend ROM space to store driver+flash wear levelling algorithm in the STM32
- one less BOM item during manufacturing to order, store, validate at manufacturing...
-any autist not liking the usb drive jutting out is perfectly capable of using a low profile usb drive.

>>2438122
>>2438540
also reminder that you have also paid for prusa support staff and documentation, so you have another place to ask in addition to this mongolian basket weaving forum
>>
Where can you find the models all those Etsy folks use to print models? I keep seeing 3d printed busts of authors and characters, but can't find the files anywhere.
>>
>>2438681
There's spoonfeeding, then there's this post

I'm going to tell you because I'm a nice dude, but you're a silly sausage
>>2435610
>>
is there any use for that squishy silicone rubber bit that surrounds the nozzle? Mine tore when changing the nozzle and I went full retard and just ripped the whole thing off
>>
>>2438710
it helps insulate the heater block to prevent things like heat creep
the silicone ones aren't that effective for anything that gets hotter than PLA
>>
I have an ender 3 s1, lately I keep getting an error that says "It looks like the file was interrupted".

I tried a few different sd cards and a new nozzle and it keeps doing that. It would just stop a few hours into a print for no explicable reason.

Any ideas? It worked fine before.
>>
>>2438723
Can be a power supply issue. Take the PSU off the rail, take the cover off the bottom and use a multimeter to watch the voltage while it prints. It should be fairly stable at around 24.2v to 24.4v. If the PSU is fine might be the power regulators on the mainboard. If you got the know how hook up some test leads to the different power rails your board has and watch them while printing. Those should be rock solid always.

Alternatively you can load the parts cannon up and buy a new PSU and mobo.
>>
>>2438710
It mainly keeps stray plastic from sticking onto the heater block.
It also works as an insulator to keep the block from losing too much heat to the air but contrary to what the other anon said it does nothing for or against heat creep.
>>
>>2438723
Communication with the SD card is quite shit, I've had such issues on my Ender 3 Pro before.
Try printing via USB connection, see if that makes a difference.
>>
>>2438730
its pretty new i've only had it a few months so i hope nothings broken

>>2438741
how do you recommend to connect via the usb?
>>
>>2438783
Plug it into your computer and use Pronterface to control it.
>>
>>2438122
your nozzle is too high, at least this was the case for me. i think i have it on -1.400 apparently -2.000 is max after the guide, then it says to correct the PINDA height.
>>
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>>2436557
BASEL
>>
>>2438628
Are there any motors rated at 100+C? I think they might've been referring to the necessary temperature rather than speeds.
This might be the one case where the gimmicky cast aluminum parts from ali might come in handy.
>>
Do I *really* need to replace my nozzles? Can't I just wipe off the nozzle while its hot to get any extra junk off?

I have noticed an increasing difficulty with bed adhesion, to the point where its kind of getting ridiculous, but I think that could also be an issue with the bed not being leveled right and/or the 2 nozzles are not at the same height (and I think that part may be getting worse)
>>
>>2438916
because the inside of the nozzle gets worn down over time, especially with the stock brass nozzles creality printers come with
it's not about gunk on the outside
>>
>>2438916
If you have another nozzle you can look at the hole sizes and get a good idea how worn your nozzle is. There's a more precise test where you pull the filament out of the hotend and use a caliper to measure the actual hole size but the eye test is normally enough. Nozzles last a long time running normal PLA.
>>
I shit you not, there is a guy in this facebook group asking for where to buy this ender 3 cover.

Seems like the problem you could resolve if you had a 3d printer.
>>
>>2438955
I'd rather have a metal cover over the electronics too.
>>
Can 1.2mm nozzles still print detailed parts?
>>
>>2438984
yes if you consider ~1mm to be detailed
>>
>>2438986
How well does prusa slicer handle outer wall placement? As long as it can reasonably place holes for functional parts that's fine by me
>>
>>2438944
>>2438924
so is this just bed leveling and nozzle alignment issues? I know one is lower than the other, but can that get worse over time? Ive never adjusted the nozzle height, and maybe over time the difference has become more pronounced?
>>
>>2439045
What's your build plate surface?
Any textured or coated surface will get less effective over time.
>>
the benefit of having a permanent connection to storage of controlled quality far exceeds those costs
even 2d printers have this
>>
>>2438685
Yeah, sorry. Forgot to mention I did search the common repositories. Nothing found. Was looking for Douglas Adams.
>>
>>2439084
>>2438647
for (You)
>>
>>2439045
your nozzle will wear over time just from having filament flowing through it, think erosion in a river, if you use abrasive filaments it'll happen faster
and if your nozzle is touching the bed frequently it could be getting worn down externally as well which can lead to more frequent clogs and inconsistent extrusion
>>
>>2439084
What benefits do you have in mind that outweigh having hard limit on gcode capacity AND planned obsolescence into your printer?

show me just one 2d printer that have actual document storage in the printer at the same price point. Not just printing from plugged sdcard / usb drive.
>>
>>2435610
Just unboxed and assembled an Ender-5 Plus, my first 3D printer. Any tips on not fucking it up? Suggestions for setting it up properly and efficiently? Any mods or upgrades I should prioritize?

Also, are there any worthwhile 3D printer designs where printed parts and /diy/ assembly and configuration save a reasonable amount of money? I told a friend of mine I'd build him a printer once I got this one figured out if he paid for materials since I like building things and he sufferers from chronic poorfaggotry.
>>
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I am planning on making off-ear wireless headphones like Valve's hummingbird prototype. I want to make the drivers rotate in multiple different axes at different points. What would be a simple and cheap design to accomplish that? The rotation should have some resistance as not to ruin adjustments (or just the ability to fix it in place. Just to clarify, I am asking only for a design for one rotational axis that I can then copy to different ones. Then again, if someone has an idea for the whole setup, I won't mind..
>>
>>2437604
Probably a group of people who will commit suicide if a Microcenter ever opens within 50mi.
>>
>>2437606
There's an article on printables called something like how to print glass. iirc they're using PETG though I haven't tried it myself as of yet.
>>
>>2439164
you would still have the usb option I'm not talking about a wifi only printer
oh but the poor engineers are going to *die* under the complexity

nobody is asking for document storage. just print by wifi without having a usb attached, a standard feature of wifi 2d printers
>>
>>2438096
>buck converter for the pi, and maybe a usb powered hub for the logitech webcam
Try picrel, you can remove the board from the plastic enclosure and it will take up the same amount of space as the buck converter everyone uses. I have a few, you can mount them to extrusions and the pi 4b doesn't get 'low voltage' throttled.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304576802840?hash=item46ea313018:g:qMoAAOSwrlVi4LzS
>>
>>2439182
Yes actually, I just had my ender 5 plus delivered without any bolts so I had to send it back and buy another one.

Ideal setup should go as follows:
Ensure to crash the nozzle into the bed violently every time the printer homes - this way you can ensure strong discipline during prints.

Secondly make sure to get some sort of CAD software. Design spark is free but blender is also useful for actually editing the mesh

As for your 3D printer designs, the voron v0.1 is supposedly good
>>
>>2439212
I will keep this in mine, since I wanted to power through GPIO I figured lm2596 would be fine since output amperage is 3A, and I had them already.
>>
Considering chink mk3s clones go for 500€+, including shipping, now, is the original kit actually not that bad kind of a deal? Firmware support and proper motors/pinda probe in one go seems like a good plus.
>>
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>>2435610
>>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
>Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
>Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
>Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
>Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
>SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE


what is the significant difference between the 250 and 500 USD models?
like what can the expensive ones do that the cheaper ones dont?

am i better of "modding" a cheap one than buyin the deluxe variants?
>>
>>2439213
>crash the nozzle into the bed violently every time the printer homes
This is why I haven't turned it on yet, need to make very sure of what I'm doing.
>make sure to get some sort of CAD software
Is there a good lightweight one for older computers?
>voron v0.1 is supposedly good
Thanks, looking into it now. Know anything about how it compares to the other Voron designs?
>>
>>2439348
>what is the significant difference between the 250 and 500 USD models
They're more plug and play and break less

>like what can the expensive ones do that the cheaper ones dont
They don't break as much and are more plug and play

>am i better of "modding" a cheap one than buyin the deluxe variants?
Depends if you want it to break easily or just be plug and play
>>
>>2439411
not a genuine answer
shitposting is a bannable offense, friend
pls read the rules
>>
>>2439348
I think the print size difference between the 250 and 500 models is worth mentioning. Sure, you can break up a model and put it back together with glue post-print, but I'd rather have one fully connected piece.
>>
>>2439348
Some of the more expensive models offer higher quality out the box or a larger build aera.
The CR-10 for example offers a bigger build aera but is otherwise identical in function to an Ender 3 which means it shares all it's flaws
The Prusa mini is even smaller than some of the cheap $250 printers but should require much less tweaking to get high quality prints.
>>
>>2439348
>am i better of "modding" a cheap one than buyin the deluxe variants?
100%, but whether or not you have the /diy/ ingenuity to take on such a task will make or break your endeavors.
>>2439417
Maybe youre ESL but it actually is a legitimate answer, maybe written a bit creatively, but they're not wrong.
>>
>>2435610
If I only knew how to paint
>>
>>2439348
>am i better of "modding" a cheap one than buyin the deluxe variants?
Depends on the printer, I bought an e5+ for 600 and spent an additional 1200~ on upgrades, fixes, wasted spools in testing, all just to get it printing reliably at an acceptable quality
Do the research into the perks/detractors for models and variants, a general's OP paste isn't going to have enough info to make an informed decision
>>
>>2439417
trolling outside of /b/ or "ironic shitposting" are against the rules, but the post you responded to was neither.
>>
>>2439438
>Depends on the printer, I bought an e5+ for 600 and spent an additional 1200~ on upgrades, fixes, wasted spools in testing
At that point I'd assume something is very defective with the printer.
IDK how ender 5s are but at the very least they should print without needing anything.
>>
How about this for a business?
>Print a bunch of hardly workable handgun
>Jump on the Dems frenzie and drop them at a gun buy-back event.
>Buy more printer
>Repeat
>Maximum profit.
This is the funniest shit I’ve ever heard…
>>
Just got myself an Anycubic Kobra Max and I can’t believe how great it has been so far. Coming from years of using various Creality product, it’s great to use a printer you don’t have to constantly fix.
>>
>>2439486
there were several things defective with it out of the box and got zero help from creality support even when it was under warranty, because I swapped the board for the silent option that they themselves sold
took 18 months of off and on troubleshooting to get it to where it is now
>>
>>2439489
>Kobra Max
i want this much build volume
>>
>>2439488
>150 dollars each for a few bucks in plastic and time
I’m in the wrong business
>>
>>2439488
somebody else tried this at another buyback in the same city on the same day and the cops told them to fuck off
it's hit or miss
>>
>>2439078
Its a textured surface. I have a qidi x-pro, it has a flexible magnetic mat that pulls off.
>>
>>2439498
What's the cheapest barrel, pins, and slide possible for a g43?
Would they consider a frame a complete firarm?
>>
>>2439498
if they did that, I'd hand them out to passers by.
>>
>>2439533
No you hang out and anyone that donates to the illegal gun grab you give them a printed gun.
>>
What's the best+cheapest out-of-the-box printer for a total newfag to the scene
>>
>>2439579
What does out of the box mean, do you want it to produce good prints 'out of the box' or simply power on and spend time tuning?
>>
>>2439433
god that looks fucking smooth af. is that 4k or 8k? also you should legit try painting. get a layer up kit from Reaper and follow the step by step for included minis. thin your paint and hang out in >>>tg/wip/. remember it takes practice but if my buddy with the shakes from a combat injury can do it you can too.
>>
>>2439579
well every cheap printer is going to need some assembly so they won't be straight "out of the box"
>>
>>2439579
monoprice mini delta. I've run it for years, just bought one for my nephew. it's solid and just prints out of the box. get it direct from monoprice, grab some $14 filament and you're printing the minute you pull it out of the box.
>>
>>2439602
4K mars3
>>
>>2438785
i don't want to use a external PC since I only have one and the printer is at the garage. Would replacing the SD card reader help? the thing is barely 6 months old.
>>
Imagine thinking you came out ahead for netting $10 for a days worth of labor/manufacturing with your own machine shop. He made $50 not $150 a piece. $40 of which was in raw materials.
>>
Any anons wanna help me out? I have a 24 hour print which requires assembly and I'll pay you $10 per delivered and assembled print. I'll tell you what customs tools you need after you accept the contract.
>>
>>2439638
in what world is a texas gun buyback only paying 50 dollars for a gun and in what world does half a spool of filament cost you 40 dollars
dumb nigger
>>
>>2439647
>Half a spool of filament cost you 40 dollars
dumb nigger

Good to know I'm talking to a done-nothing know-it-all that thinks barrel liners, chamber reamers, fasteners, springs and firing pins are free or for pennies. I'm sure you have first hand knowledge and aren't just speculating out of your ass.

The reality is the guy made a fraction of minimum wage. I'm sure countless people would be more than happy to buy a pistol for $50 and not feel like they were 'screwed over'.

If you have any functional pistols for sale for $50 let me know, I'll gladly let you take advantage of me papi. The actual guy has an active thread in Fosscad so you don't have to go off some rando's opinion twitter screencap
>>
>>2439433
Look up War Hammer painting guides.
>>
>>2439642
Sure I'm game.
>>
>>2439662
>the guy made a fraction of minimum wage.
I am pretty sure that isn't the point. And even if he didn't he obviously made all those guns and sold them so at the very least at some point it seemed like a good idea. Hell you're even assuming they worked, they could have been failed prototypes or missing essential parts- it's not like they don't buy defective guns right along side perfect condition guns.
>>
>>2439671
>made all those guns and sold them

He didn't even sell them, he got a 'gift certificate'.

>Hell you're even assuming they worked, they could have been failed prototypes or missing essential parts

Literally the same effort and expenses making and assembling them if he was incompetent or skilled.

Tell me, how much does an in-stock barrel liner cost? Yeah they were his shit prints but don't pretend he has the upper hand after making 12 fucking phonecalls and waiting in line for hours for a gift certificate.

A functional adult should make that much profit in a day or two in this country, his profit was less than 20% of what he got in gift certificates, so even then a normal person is already making 5x more.

Again, he could be pulling that 'scam' every day and he still wouldn't make enough to buy a home in this country.
>>
>>2439662
>>2439682
There's nothing even in that IRC saying he put liners in, they're meme zip guns in those posts
>>
>>2439684
>There's nothing even in that IRC saying he put liners in, they're meme zip guns in those posts

Do you really believe he risked a federal felony to save a few bucks by not putting a rifled liner in?
>>
>>2439687
>muh federal felony
if they weren't viable for a buyback they would've just told him to fuck off like that guy who showed up with a bunch of printed uppers
>>
>if they weren't viable for a buyback they would've just told him to fuck off like that guy who showed up with a bunch of printed uppers

Oh okay. They were offering $150 per automatic weapon. Since it's all the same to you he shoulda just printed a bunch of those instead, tax stamp and felony risk be damned
>>
>>2439682
>makes huge assumptions
>this thing this guy does doesn't work
just stop anon, you're both retarded and entitled.
>>
>>2439692
Autism is free license to be 100% retarded 100% of the time.

Dunno what corner of the USA you live in where someone takes a cab, has it wait for hours to sell you a pistol for a $50 gift card and laughs that *you* got screwed over, but okay
>>
>>2439207
oh thats what you meant. Still not feasible IMO.
Without local storage you need to stream the data for the entire duration that the printer is operational.
wifi 2d printers can print 10+ pages a minute so you can hit print and have the whole job finish reasonably quick.
with 3d printers you need to keep your computer online for hours and hours to stream all the g-code needed, and any interruption will botch the print.
>>
>>2439348
In addition to the other points, general ease-of-use can also improve.
My e3v2 works well with pla after plenty of tinkering, but I could never got it to work with PETG (am too retarded to finetune settings). My new prusa mini just werks without tinkering on both materials
>>
>>2439504
Might need to clean it with some good old soap and water or replace it.
Could also use some gluestiick.
>>
>>2439620
I'm telling you to print via USB so you can tell if it's the card reader or not, but if you want to throw money on parts blindly it's your choice.
Also the card reader is integrated into the printer's control board so you have to get a new board.
>>
https://www.fox26houston.com/news/man-claims-to-have-sold-dozens-of-ghost-guns-at-houston-gun-buyback-event

>ryobi drill
kek

>no longer accepted
fug
>>
Just bought a photon mono X.
What resin should I buy?
I was looking at the water washable stuff to avoid having to buy gallons of IPA.
>>
>>2439886
>ryobi drill
It has a pistol grip, anon. That makes it an assault weapon.
>>
>>2439890
Siraya Tech makes good stuff.
>>
>>2439886
Wouldn't be surprised if it was a /k/ anon.
Not long ago there was a thread about doing this and labeling them as fully semiatomatic single shot ghost assault pistols to incentivize buybacks to actually buy them.
>>
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What's the most likely point of failure here? I've been fiddling with calibrations for days now and it's not getting much better.
I'm begining to suspect part cooling fan but I've had much worse and no problem.

Ender 3 + Revo genera + klipper
>>
>>2437946
I live in the meditarranean.
>>
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So i recently bought a couple of 0.2mm nozzles for my ender 3 and i haven't gotten one good result that looked decent or didn't fail partway through. I used this profile (1) that i got from this video (2) but wasn't able to achieve any usable results. Am i fucking up somewhere? Does anybody have a good cura profile for 0.2mm nozzles that works well&

(1) https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fI7M5j7BZaTj_HkY9jrfGK98b9yZHERD?usp=sharing
(2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuPaQznW8T0&t=1s
>>
>>2439950
Probably heat creep. .2mm nozzles move plastic through the hot end very slowly, so it's a lot more prone to melting back and clogging, and before it outright fails, it has that spongy look as it still feeds but not as well as it should. When I have something to print that wants to clog from heat creep, I take the air assist for my laser (a big aquarium pump) and aim a jet of air directly at the heat break. You may need to modify the print head to get an equivalent setup.
>>
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Just started messing around with an elegoo mars 2p and got consistent benchie, rook, and those little calibration squares. I did one successful print of 3 small parts and went to print multiple copies of the same part. The supports were adhered to the buildplate, those three parts you see were attached to the supports and are the correct dimensions with no warping or other issues. However the other identical parts were small flat blobs on the display film and appear to have simply fallen off the supports.

If it was a total failure it would be easy to diagnose but this odd 70% failure confuses me. Any suggestions?
>>
>>2439979
On closer inspection each blob seems to have failed at a different time and the one with the largest bump has support dimples on it indicating that it was attached for a while. I think my issue is shitty supports. Perhaps it would have been better to not have a support bed but instead have the part directly on the buildplate? I just clicked auto-generate.
>>
>>2439941
What's your print speed, extrusion height, width, etc?
>>
>>2436343
Put feet under the flat plate
>>
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If I attempted to print this object, will the vertical lines where the corner fillet happened show up in the final print? Or will it print out smooth all around the edge of the object?
>>
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>>2439866
>I'm telling you to print via USB so you can tell if it's the card reader or not,
ah ok, i didn't get that at first. I will try that
>>
i am not sure what to get
i want to make parts to make moulds off to make cement objects but also wanna be able to make parts that are structurally sound and can be used like example a door handle, hinges and so on
am i better of using PLA and having to sand down and finish up the parts for moulds or is there a resin option tough enough todo the job?
>>
>>2440020

put it in a slicer and check
>>
>>2439941
underextrusion at base? it seems like you're dragging your nozzle on the skirt, so you're not z-leveled? Put it up 3mm with support and see how the print is. Try brim as well.
>>
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>>2439963
Lowered the temp to 190 and switched to curas "ultra" settings but still a disaster
>>
>>2439984
it's basic support fail. try different settings or lattice supports (where each horizontally connects). Your 70% rate is more about the being lucky those 3 succeeded, just add support/crossbrace/more and try again.
>>
>>2440020
smooth-ish? I have good luck with "smooth" surface at angles, it should be relatively good at 45º but still have layer lines.
>>
>>2440030
you want to cast a cement door handle?
>>
>>2439488
>>2439682
>>2439687
>>2439706
>The anonymous man we spoke with showed us a receipt from the exchange.
>According to the anonymous man, each gun cost him about $3 to make. On Saturday, he says he exchanged 62 3D-printed guns with Houston leaders and was given $50 per firearm.

https://www.fox26houston.com/news/man-claims-to-have-sold-dozens-of-ghost-guns-at-houston-gun-buyback-event
>>
>>2440048
try not using cura, see if prusaslicer or superslicers slowest settings also fuck up

if so then you probably have a gap between your bowden tube and the nozzle itself inside the heatblock, very common cause of clogs on an ender and its possible that the gap you have is only an issue for the lower flowrate smaller nozzle
>>
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>>2440057
nta, different printer but mine has a separate "heat break" tube that is white and not a bowden tube. It's factory cut too short so I get the left gap but since there is a solid break between the bowden tube and this heat break piece so cannot just shove it together harder. Is there a cheap/easy replacment for this bit of tube that's not bowden tube?
>>
>>2439941
>>2439994
Linea gorda detalle medio
Global Settings

Build Plate Adhesion
Build Plate Adhesion Type: skirt
Quality
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Initial Layer Height: 0.2mm
Material
Build Plate Temperature: 56°C
Travel
Combing Mode: off
Support
Generate Support: False
Support Placement: buildplate

Extruder Settings

Shell
Bottom Layers: 4
Enable Ironing: False
Ironing Flow: 25%
Ironing Inset: 0.2mm
Iron Only Highest Layer: True
Top Surface Skin Layers: 1
Top/Bottom Line Directions: [90 ]
Extra Skin Wall Count: 0
Ironing Speed: 100mm/s
Top Layers: 4
Outer Wall Inset: 0.2mm
Wall Line Count: 2
Seam Corner Preference: z_seam_corner_none
Z Seam Alignment: back
Cooling
Fan Speed: 80%
Infill
Infill Overlap Percentage: 30%
Infill Pattern: gyroid
Infill Density: 4%
Skin Overlap Percentage: 20.0%
Material
Flow: 86%
Initial Layer Flow: 100%
Retraction Distance: 0.5mm
Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 0.1mm
Travel
Z Hop Height: 0.2mm
Z Hop When Retracted: True
Quality
Top/Bottom Line Width: 0.28mm
Build Plate Adhesion
Skirt Distance: 12.0mm
Speed
Print Speed: 60.0mm/s
Top Surface Skin Speed: 20.0mm/s
Top/Bottom Speed: 20.0mm/s
Outer Wall Speed: 20.0mm/s

>>2440047
Will do! Thanks for the tip, why would I be underextruding at base? Simply due to proximity to the nozzle being less than the line height?
>>
>>2440061
the v6 clone that came on my cr10v3 has a teflon tube inside the hotend between the direct drive and nozzle, I just cut it down bit by bit till it was a snug fit to screw together. Works fine at 250c doing weekly prints even a year later.

I'd just replace with more teflon at the right length, unless you think you need to print at higher temps captive ptfe hot ends are good IME
>>
>>2440030
ABS can do both. It's good enough to be used for structural parts and if you want nice and smooth parts you can smooth them with acetone vapours.
>>
What sort of plastic is good for squeezable anti-stress toy?
>>
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>>2440051
Okay, is it preferable to have things floating on a bed of supports or should I always try to have some surface in contact with the buildplate?

Thanks for taking the time to help me man.
>>
>>2440136
my balls according to your mum
>>
Thread about to 404 but wathevs

I don´t fucking understand what is going with my ender 3.

I use PLA from amazon basics, with Cura going at 200º with a 50º bed and everything is fine, like literally: According to the bed level test(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803) the level is simply perfect, I took a look of the extruder and it was clean even when I passed a needle through the nozzle it came out almost without plastic and when I extrude plastic outisde the extruder I can see exactly 1 cm coming out of the tube and retracting that cm back without stall in any direction.

Yet everytime I print the extruder gear starts going "clank, clank, clank" like it can´t extrude either at the start of a print or mid print, and when that happens the flow stops or gets severely reduced and pic happens.

It´s so tiresome...
>>
>>2440173
tensioner screw on extruder arm might be too tight
gears in extruder might be loose
stepper motor might need replacing
there are a lot of things that can cause extruders to slip like that
>>
>>2440173
you have space between the Bowden tube and nozzle which is clogging up your hotend. Very common issue with Enders.
>>
>>2440173
I would check the tension on the extruder arm, I would increase the nozzle temp by about 10c, and I would check to make sure the hot end is clear and clean and that the bowden tube where it enters the hot end is cut squarely and properly inserted.
>>
>>2439687
I thought the law just said they had to be rifled, not how well. So even just 3d printed rifling should do. Probably the most rudimentary attempt at "rifling" with a file would satisfy.

I gotta look at those pics again
>>
>>2439682
It's also a political statement. Those gun buy backs usually have a limited number of gift cards so if hebtakes them all, other people might not give up their guns
>>
>>2440071
>Flow: 86%
???
>Retraction Distance: 0.5mm
Is it a direct drive?
>Top/Bottom Line Width: 0.28mm
What's your nozzle size?
>>
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printed this rear trim(the part that says ae86) however since it was so long I had to cut up the print. I used square holes and pegs to match up the pieces. is there a better method? like clips you insert into the print itself perhaps? so far the print has held up to 100 mph and a week in the calfornia sun
>>
anybody have a file for a wearable venom snake arm? I found this one a while back but half the files wont print no matter the slicer and the ones that did even after resizing are nowhere near ready to be wearable even if you spent time post-processing
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3603921
>>
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>>2440286
Flow is wrong, currently printing at 89'5% after flow cube calibration

Direct Drive hemwea Revo
And top/bottom line width set to 0.28 after watching chep's video https://youtu.be/jkAqTWmVRVA
The one I'm pointing at is 0,28
>>
Is it a good idea to make hinges, joints or some kind of sliding mechanisms that stay in place with friction just by printing? I wonder if they will just wear out and become loose if adjusted many times.
>>
>>2440581
And by friction I mean something that doesn't use bolts and nuts or something similar. A tube that stays in place when going through a hole for example.
>>
>>2440173
>this was posted 18 hours ago and we're only page 5
the sky is truly falling
>>
>>2440173
okay so this exact thing happens for me after I cancel a print but don't choose move > extruder > home. for some reason it's like gcode isn't cleared and if I try to start another print I get the wackadoo movement and the extruder trying to fire cold. not sure if this helps but maybe try homing things (or otherwise fully resetting) before starting? if that works you may not be properly closing your gcode in your slicer.
>>
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>>2440327
>is there a better method?
you can do all kinds of interfaces. top is a bottom view with interlocking geometry. bottom is a plate on the back with correspoinding pins which you would melt down with a woodburner. the problem is the more you overlay the pieces for strength, the shorter the exterior piece needs to be.

if you redo consider texturing to hide the break lines.
>>
>>2440581
prints and parts can also shrink and warp over time. but yes, interference fitting is a huge part of design for assembly. a similar technique is print in place.
>>
>>2440071
why the hell is your ironing at 100mm/s
>>
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bought a Ender 3 Pro
have i been memed?
>>
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hello, i have a problem, i try to make a pinion, a gear for a dc motor.
the model is fine but when I pass it to a file for printing then my artillery genius does not indicate the z angle, it comes out without information, when it should indicate 0.1 and it does not print
It is a machine to make filament from plastic bottles.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/14n_46-q4TIsXCR2HI44NSDoK8T4Gqkmx?usp=sharing
>>
What's a good replacement nozzle/hotend for an ender 3? I've heard mixed things about volcano hotends
>>
>>2440688
no
>>
>>2440772
The V6 is a good all round choice. Better than stock in almost all aspects. If you're unsure about what to get then this will serve you well.
Now, the Volcano is a bit different compared to other hotends. It basically trades some retraction performance for vastly increased maximum flow rate. Only catch is that it can't handle low flow rates as well as regular hotends so you can't print too slow with it otherwise it strings like hell. If you want slow detailed prints then the Volcano is not for you.
If you want to use fat 0.8, 1.0 and even 1.2 nozzles to print big quickly then holy fuck this thing is awesome. Imagine 500 grams of ABS gone in 6 hours.
>>
>>2440790
Got it, thanks! It's mostly for miniature buildings and terrain, so I'll go with a v6
>>
>>2440688
Only if you rice it out with shitty self-print upgrades in fluorescent orange pla
>>
>>2438835
Bruh. Steppers run at 100C all day every day. 3D printers run them stupid cold and slow.

>>2439034
It puts them where they are. Good luck getting sub 10mm holes out of a 1.2mm nozzle, though.

>>2439198
Slip joints and thumb screws.

>>2439201
That tutorial is dogshit. Follow the T-glase tutorial.
https://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html

>>2440136
SEBS or TPR
>>
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>>2440866
>https://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html
At first glance that looks great, makes me want to make time to give it a real attempt.
>>
>>2440866
>>2440868
Have you done the t-glase method yourself? Does it work with standard petg like overture, I have some and I'd rather test that before ordering a spool of tglase. The article mentions tglase is a PET based polymer so I would guess it's the xtc3d and the settings that are the magic.
>>
>>2440903
Yes. Follow the print guidelines and it'll work with any PET. T-glase is PETT, but it works just as well with other transparent PETs (I used greengate RPETG as well as Taulman T-glase). The extrusion does most of the optical work, but the XTC-3D makes it more consistent across a print.

If you do get T-glase, they sell factory seconds on amazon. Just keep in mind they're 1lb, not 1kg.
>>
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>>2440027
Not that anon but after going through chain replies it seems you have a ender 3 s1, honestly I would take a raspberry pi and connect to the printer serial directly via GPIO of the Raspberry pi, with a logic level shifter.

My cr10s pro I just connected my pi and powering it off the psu
>pic related

Did that a few days ago.
>>
>>2440944
I did that before and I had too many serial issuse due to some weird Pi Linux bug and serial. It doesn't affect USB though.
>>
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>>2440730
>separador de bobina
Without knowing what language that is it's hilarious
>>
>>2440966
>>2440966
>>
>>2440506
What does it look like at 100% flow?



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