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Last thread >>2403639
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
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>>2410861
>fucks up template
>it's a thumbnail
>>
>>2410869
Sorry, I'll spend 5 hours looking through the archives for the picture next time.
>>
>>2410875
>5 hours
>to find 9 images
>from the previous thread
>which is still on PAGE 5
or you could not make the thread.
>>
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>Do you have the graph? I would try running the shaper at various different belt tensions. I was getting pretty dramatic differences with different belt tensions.

>FWIW, I have the squash feet on my Ender too, and Klipper recommended 3900mm/s acceleration on y with 0% vibration which is what I set my machine limit to. X axis was something past 10k acceleration. Frankly I'm very happy it can move that fast without quality loss. I don't think the squash balls would hurt or help with resonances, but they sure do cut a lot of noise so I won't be getting rid of them for any reason.

#*# [input_shaper]
#*# shaper_type_x = 2hump_ei
#*# shaper_freq_x = 80.2
#*# shaper_type_y = mzv
#*# shaper_freq_y = 36.4
Yee. Here's graph. I just left accel at 3000 defaults. Prusaslicer makes retarded massive Z seam gaps unless I run accel at their default of 500 so I tend to just use Cura which doesn't fuck with accel nor care.

>>2410879
Not OP but who tf doesn't use catalog view, and also who bitches about breadmakers. All the people that seemingly know how to do it won't make the bread so don't bitch about retards doing it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
>>
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CUBE, COMING TO YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD DIMENSION SOON
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Un5K-jMCWg
>>2410888
>>
CAD question, Fusion 360.
Trying to create spiral fins around a central shaft of a given desired angle of attack from vertical, in degrees, using the standard method of creating a triangle spiral on the inside diameter. I am unsure how to specify the spiral in order to obtain a desired angle of attack from the given options including height and the number of revolutions. How should I determine the proper setting to obtain, or example, a 20 degree angle of attack? I'd rather not resort to flat fins cropped with an extrusion cut to the desire diameter. I am guessing based on intuition that such fins are less effective than proper spiral fins.
>>
>>2410898
Helix angle is acos(pitch / base circle circumference).
>>
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More prusaslicer bullshit. Potato exterior when printing multiple objects. Any ideas or is this just impossible to not have it be potato when doing multiple objects?

Blobby defects are identical across multiple prints on multiple printers.
>>
>>2410861
Looking to get started in 3d printing. Would you guys suggest getting a base ender 3 and upgrading or should I just get the ender 3 s1 that already has a direct drive, metal hotend, automatic bed leveling, etc. I imagine after buying all the upgrades it will cost about the same. Also are the build areas the same on all the ender 3's? some list 235x235, some 220.
>>
>>2410888
Your Y graph looks like something that I would expect, but the X looks odd to me with that long building resonance before the peak. Never used a bedslinger though, especially with Klipper, but just going with my gut, I would expect the X to look "normal" and the Y to look weird.
Sorry that this is more of a remark than actual help!
>>
>>2410915
220mm vs. 235 will be barely noticeable, most of your prints will just be a tiny spot in the center. If you can find an "Ender 3 for $100" deal I'd say go for that and upgrade it yourself to learn about how all the upgrades work, but if not, get one with DD/ABL and it will definitely make your life easier. An all-metal hotend won't make a huge difference on an open printer since you will probably not be printing anything hot enough for it to matter, but you might as well go with one because "fuck it, why not?".
>>
>>2410905
I need the pitch. Fusion doesn't accept helix or lead angle as an input.
>>
>>2410949
You know trig, right? pitch = (circumference)*cos(angle)
>>
>>2410915
I had the same thoughts as you. I ended up buying an ender 3 s1 because there was a flash sale on amazon for $365 + tax. It works great out of the box with minimal setup required.

I decided to return it and get an ender 3 pro + upgrades instead. Why? The s1 is different enough from the other ender 3 models in that many community/aftermarket mods and upgrades aren't compatible. Also theres less room for customization (for example, rail inserts, covers, etc) and the printer feels somewhat sterile in comparison to a nicely personalized albeit older ender. Overall, going the pro w/ upgrades route will be a fun learning experience and give me a more functional (for my needs) printer even though it will cost more in the long run. Since these printers are for hobbyist activities, fun should factor in more than price, imo.
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>>2410968
Sadly it's been ten years since I did anything greater than arithmetic. I've forgotten everything else.
>>
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How hard is it for them to make a slicer that warns you it's going to print shit unattached in the air.
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>>2410973
You should probably re-learn trig, or at least what sine, cosine, tangent and arcsine, arccosine, and arctangent are. It's super useful in parametric modeling.
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PLA Stencils are fun. Pops off immediately when I hit it with some cold water.
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>>2411119
For spray painting?
>>
Everyone and their mother says that steel core timing belts need larger pulleys but none of the fuckers would ever mention by how much exactly. I'm aware that I'll be using cheap chinesium stuff that doesn't have any kind of definite specs to begin with, but the basic physics still applies so I want at least some ballpark to work with. Like I know with fiberglass you shouldn't go below 12T for gt2 and around 14 or 16T for htd3m if you want them to last, how much bigger they should be for the steel core, 20%, or maybe 40%, or twice the size?
>>
what is the best alternative to thingyverse with a comparable user base?
i am so done with that piece of shit website.
just got 404 errors when i try to upload shit. those dumb cunts even can't add a download all button for fucking things so you actually have to google around and find you can put /zip into url, the interface is outadate and shit and no. i'm fucking finished
there surely must be better alternatives
>>
>>2411201
Thangs.com seems to work pretty well.
>>
>>2411201
printables is pretty OK, but its super hobbyist heavy with very little actual useful bits uploaded compared to thingyverse.
on the plus side, you can get prusament for free if you do enough interaction on the site, so if you don't live in Australia where shipping is 8x the cost of the filament, thats a plus.
>>
>>2411206
>>2411222
how large are the userbases tho?
>>
>>2411240
printables is pretty large, its the prusa version of thingyverse. its large enough for them to have 3 different design contests running at once, and the vase contest that just finished had almost 500 entries.
>>
Accidentally phonepisted this in the dead thread so I'll repeat it here.

Found this guy on YouTube and got interested in trying out recycled PET as a filament. This video in particular is really interesting, the guy modified his printhead into accepting PET strips made from bottles without any additional processing. The only thing is that the video is ass and nigh incomprehensible so I don't understand what exactly he did to make this shit work. If anyone here is a 200 iq boy genius can you explain or better yet draw a simple diagram explaining how to perform this modification.
https://youtu.be/AmJzqdA3zSg
>>
>>2411064
Just turn on automatic supports and see where it makes supports when you slice. Then reconsider if supports are actually needed.
>>
>>2410879
>He can't read
>He actually wanted a collage with a thumbnail cover photo
I look forward to you OPing next thread and putting a collage together.
>>
I keep my printer in my closet

Am I going to kill myself to death if I print TPU in there without ventilation?
>>
How do you lads make sure the nozzle doesn't ooze over the print after pause/resume?
Super Slicer has this wipe tower thing (which I assume helps on this?) but it needs relative e which the tooltip says is only for advanced users
>>
>>2411369
>Printer in the closet printing dildos.
both of you are in the closet.
>>
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>>2411300
Looks like he's made a jig with an exacto knife to cut plastic bottles to strips with the same cross-sectional area as filament.
He doesn't show the hotend modification (and I don't speak Russian) but I have a hypothesis based on observations.
Referencing the highly technical diagram in the top section of picrel, "B" looks like a nut holding together two parts of the hotend, "A" and "C".
"C" is probably part of a conventional heatbrake, and my assumption is that "A" is a part with an inner slot running it's length that roughly matches the cross-section of the plastic strips.
The strips would partially melt inside A and be soft enough to deform inside the opening to "C".
The lower section of picrel shows what's possibly another angle of "A", but it looks a lot longer and there's some kind of gunk on the end, can't tell what exactly. He could have cut this part to the right length later, or this could be a different bolt that he just put there to hold the extruder assembly together, the latter idea being supported by the metal wire he's wrapped around the bolt, which isn't present during operation.
If I were doing this, for "A" I would try to find a set screw with a slot that runs it's length and is open on both ends, no idea if that's what he's actually done.
All just a crap shot, could be entirely wrong.
>>
>>2411300
>>2411411
You can use downsub ( Ublock necessary) for subs.
https://downsub.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DAmJzqdA3zSg
>>
>>2411411
Now that I take a step back to look at it, I'm probably wrong about one detail of the construction here. "B" is probably a nut to hold the extruder assembly in place inside that metal box. If this is right, "A" and "C" are actually the same part, and that bolt runs inside the heatblock and contacts the nozzle directly.
The basic principal of my hypothesis stands, the plastic melts partially inside "A/C" and is able to deform as it moves inside the nozzle. Makes more sense this way too, I had my doubts that the area at the bolt could stay hot enough to start melting the plastic.
>>
>>2411420
Thanks, I dunno why I didn't check for subs.

>>2411411
>>2411426
These lines explain a little bit more.
>Why do I print two ribbons at once?
>One tape bends in a nylon tube. We need to figure out how to do it
>nylon thermal insulation is not cylindrical and rectangular type.
Seems like the gunk inside the part "A/C" might be a nylon sheath? The part itself is just a threaded tube. If this is the case, each strip would have a cross-sectional area about half that of his printer's filament. More importantly, this means the nozzle is doing all the work heating the plastic, there would be no deformation before the strips hit the entrance of the nozzle.
Or something like that, not really sure.
>>
>>2410915
Ender is chink shit, it's irrelevant that it offers better volume than Prusa and that excellent quality might be achieved with sufficient tweaking, it will still melt down before a year, and if you're unlucky, it won't work from out of the box. Prusa shows really painstaking quality in every little detail and their products are built to last, thats why I shill the smug fuckers.
>>
>>2411384
After the print finishes: play with retractions on your slicer.
After it pauses: there's no correct answer. If you stopped the oozing somehow, you'd have the problem of restarting the print with enough filament not to leave a gap where you resumed. I guess you can try to avoid pausing or work around the issue.
>>
>>2411476
I'm pausing to do filament swaps. They look good enough honestly, my main problem is they sometimes ooze some blob and it gets in the way/fucks everything up
>>
>>2411094
Im not that anon but thanks for the heads-up.
>>
>>2411369
ABS will kill you as well, maybe even PLA, data is unconclusive. All filaments give off some microparticles during printing, ABS ones not only smell like shit, they give you cancer. Come on anon, get it together.

>>2411479
Yeah, I thought so. I just kinda "pinch" away the excess ooze from the nozzle with the pincers and try to do the filament swap as quick as possible, but it's still not perfect. Maybe try lowering temp a little bit (5 C°), if you can afford it without affecting quality. Higher temps increase oozing
>>
>>2411479
I used to just lay my part removal scraper under the nozzle when I was doing filament swaps on my old printer, but now I'm running klipper so it pauses in the corner.
>>
Is there a slicer like Chitubox that will export SVGs (or PNGs I guess) of each layer? Chitubox sucks, I want something less freemium.
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Is Cults3D the best site for monetizing 3D print files? I have a basic file that I'll offer for free and then sell some "alternate designs" for a few bucks
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flashed marlin 2.0 a8+ succesfully on like 10 boards. this one burns. why?
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>>2411875
3d printers and parts are on an eternal race to the bottom. Literally everything is chinkshit of the lowest quality.
>>
>>2410888
>All the people that seemingly know how to do it won't make the bread so don't bitch about retards doing it
not him but i also agree on how there's no need to make a new thread just because the old one passed bump limit, especially on a slow board like this. I mean the old thread right now is still on page 9
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Mods are gay
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is there something in cura that basically gives me a virtual ruler to measure details? Something a bit more involved than just the general xyz measurements of the whole model
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lads

What do you do for parts where there's a rod extruding from a face? If I slice it as it is, the rod snaps off super easily since there's only 1 layer connecting the rod to the face.

When I encountered this in the past I would just add ribs, or print the part horizontally. I could still do that but I want to print it vertically with no ribs, any tips?

also is cura 5.0 worth updating to?
>>
>>2412076
replace rods with holes + dowels
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>>2412064
That would be nice to know. Also, I use Superslicer (Prusaslicer clone), why does it feel like everyone here use Cura?

>>2412076
>>2412129
I do the same as this guy said.
>>
Finally got resonance 'ringing' solved on one of my Enders 3v2 (for one axis). Ordered a toothed tensioner to try to resolve the remaining axis.
Under the right light the parts look good but especially with black my last struggle is getting rid of z seam 'lines' that only appear if you hold it at the right angle to the light. If it was a matte black it wouldn't be visible.
Someone suggested diff flowrate temp variations so I tried printing with all features at the same very slow speed with no diff. Perhaps it's line direction changes during a layer? I'm at a loss on what to do. Very close to having flawless black pieces.
>>
>>2412076
>also is cura 5.0 worth updating to?
Pretty sure they have a bunch of demo models on their site that they say are faster with 5.0. I'd update. Frankly I think peoples preference to Prusaslicer is that they've never tried Cura 5.0.
Prusa only gives a shorter print time because it defaults inner wall speed to ~160% of the outer wall speed and the line widths default a bit fatter. Once that's changed they seem identical as far as speed IMO. Prusa also defaults to fucking w/ the acceleration settings and setting them verrry low.
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>>2412076
print it sideways you mong
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I've been struggling with this issue for over a month now and I can't figure it out. My ultimaker s5 will print perfectly using TPU then every few prints out of nowhere it will hit this underextrusion that kills the print. Has anyone seen this before and know what causes it?
>>
>>2412276
nozzle clogs, heat creep, extruder arm 2tight
>>
>>2412076
glue the faces together so that the rods aren't taking the load
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>>2412235
Fascinating, care to post some before/after and what you did to work it out?
>>
>>2412276
>ultimaker s5
>printing THAT abomination
Not sure if troll or you're just trying to cast chinkshits into a better light.
Underextrusion aside, what was printed up until that point looks horrible. Like, "a fucking Anet can do better" horrible.
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Is there any good comprehensive guides on control boards, drivers (SPI vs UART?...) and compatible displays?
I have not been following the progress of that sector for couple of years, and I want to replace dead ramps1.4.
What is good price/performance? I plan to use Marlin, because that's what I used now. But what is opinion on klipper? I also need raspberry pi? Does any board run it natively, without rpi?
>>
>>2412397
If you have a spare RPi, switching to Klipper is a no brainer. It's easier and more intuitive than Marlin.
>>
>>2412236
I use prusaslicer since the tiny ass settings window in cura triggers my autism
I miss tree supports tho
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Any clues as to why I'm getting x-axis layer shifts? It's a voxelab aquila. I think the nozzle is dragging the print sometimes, either that or the motor is freaking out for no reason. The carriage moves fairly smoothly when moved manually. I don't think it's overextruding
>>
>>2410861
Can anyone recommend any good apartment friendly ultra fine particle protection systems for the ender 3? I had a print running overnight and it was giving me a headache.
>>
>>2412531
Your belts may not be tensioned tight enough. If it is skipping a tooth it may skip steps and not be super smooth
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>>2412531
is your hotend tightly screwed in? Does it wobble at all if you push it?
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>>2412531
My guess is that something is loose on it's mounting maybe, like the carriage or hotend, or the bed.
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>>2412551
I tightened them fairly tight. The last time i tightened them they snapped so I replaced them the other day.

>>2412583
No I secured it the other day just in case.

>>2412586
I'm using a magnetic bed and ABL (bltouch), I don't think the magnetic bed moved. Could the bltouch be causing some issue? It's not anywhere near the bed, there's like a good 5mm of clearance to the nozzle.

I just printed the same thing again with Prusaslicer and it came out a lot better, but there's a big layer shift on the bottom. Prusaslicer is on the left and Cura 5.0 is on the right. I don't think I have acceleration control turned on in either, and I have retraction and z-hop on both. Same speeds for both. I'm not sure why Cura is freaking out so much but prusa still has a layer shift at the start, and all of the corners all have a ringing-like artifact.
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>>2412626
I don't think the bltouch would be causing this. If you grab the nozzle and jiggle it, is there any movement or a knock? How about when you do the same to the bed?
>>
I just built my first printer and Im having a hard time unsticking my prints from my glass bed (the rubbery coated side that came on the bed of my ender 3v2)

If I buy a magnetic bed for my ender 3v2 to replace the glass bed, if I want to go back to glass would I need to peel off the magnetic sticker, or could I place the glass on top of it without taking it out?
>>
>>2412531
Most likely the steppers aren't getting enough power.
Most stepper drivers are set at quite a low current from the factory and that means it takes less force to make them lose steps.
>>
>>2412764
Put some glue stick on the bed to get a better release, and/or let your bed and print cool down first, but there is nothing easier than just flexing a mag plate to get that shit off there. You will not want to go back to glass after you switch though, smooth PEI gives just as good of a bottom surface as glass, and then you also have the option of a textured bottom surface.
>>
>>2412764
>if I want to go back to glass would I need to peel off the magnetic sticker, or could I place the glass on top of it without taking it out?
You pretty much have to choose here because placing the glass on the sticker will have the glass fuse to it over time.
If you have issues with prints sticking too well you can try to flip the glass and print on the bare side. Or if you want to use the textured side you can apply a layer of paper glue to it.
>>
>>2412780
>>2412786
Isn't glue stick for making the prints stick more on the bed, instead of easing the release? I did not glue stick could be used, I've only seen people using that Nelly hairspray brand on smooth glass
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>>2412386
Holy fuck, almost like there's something wrong with it that I'm trying to fix! Thanks for schizo posting though, it's helped absolutely nothing
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>>2410861
I just got this for freeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!
I'll have to clean it up and check if it works but it was out on the curb for cleanup weak!
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>>2412817
I have one of those at work and it's fucking trash.
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>>2412823
That's where I found it. I'll clean it up, and list it online for $75 or so.
>>
>>2412801
>Isn't glue stick for making the prints stick more on the bed, instead of easing the release?
It's for making a new surface on which to print on. Like this you're no longer printing on textured glass, you're printing on the glue. That's why it works to get stuff to stick to otherwise less optimal surfaces like smooth glass. This is also why it works to get stuff to not stick that hard to your textured glass.
>>
>>2412547
>I had a print running overnight and it was giving me a headache.
put the printer in a different room anon, and open a window or leave the AC running
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I recently got into soapmaking and am wondering how possible it is to do the following:
Get the 3d file (or whatever its called) of a design from a friend who knows what hes doing
Give that file to a place that will 3d print stuff for people (friend cant do it cus he lives across the pond)
Have them print the design, but sunk into a hole so i can pour soap into it and pop it out when its ready
Have this design printed with material that is flexible enough for me to pop the soap out when its finished hardening
Pic related is what i mean by "sunk into a hole"
>>
>>2412878
Obviously, yes, it's generally referred to as moldmaking. Though you'd usually print a positive part, cast a negative in silicone, and then use that casting to make the end product. It's going to be relatively expensive if you try to get literally everything done by someone else.
>>
if you use f*si*n threeshitty I don't want to know you
>>
>>2412831
Makes sense. Thanks!
>>
Finally get perfect print without Z wall 'bulges' and some minor gaps, go from 7mm/70mm/s retraction to 6mm/80mm/s and change filament colors (and relaxed combing rules). Now it bulges again (basically prints an extra outer wall). Could the retraction actually be solving the bulges?

>>2412338
I think it was tightening the Y gantry on the ender.
>>
>>2412878
watch some tutorials on tinkercad, you can teach yourself how to make molds for free in probably an hour
>>
>>2412801
PLA is sold as a moldmaking release. It's also what generic normal glue is made out of. I've been printing big sheet stencils that take up the whole glass bed and they just float off once I zap em with cold water. The 'textured side' of the glass also just releases once it's cool. Untextured I think it still sticks a bit if you let it cool naturally, I think it 'stretches' and needs the thermal shock to release.
Otherwise I use a chisel effect with the scraper. I wouldn't do a bed temp higher than 60C for PLA. Maybe try 55? 50C is borderline too low for glass and half the prints will unstick before they're done. I bought a mag sheet for the lighter weight but they're oversized and so you can't 'clip' them on. The adhesive isn't compatible with the higher temp filaments so I've never bothered putting it on since I intend to use enclosures soon.
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im at a complete wits end here and three seconds from chucking myself off my roof
I suddenly have this issue (no matter the filament i try) where I put in a new filament, extrude a few 10cms of filament to see how it flows. and THE SECOND it stops feeding and I tries to start feeding again the little tube inside the extruder gets clogged.
I put a short capricon tube inside the extruder because I saw a bunch of people doing it online and before it printed beautifully, now it clogs the second it stops feeding. I switched out the nozzle for a new one, lasted one print and the issue continued. I know for a fact that the cut of tube inside the extruder is the thing getting clogged and not the nozzle because I've taken it appart like a thousand times in the last couple of days to unclog it. I tried the ''squeeze'' the capricorn tube by tighteing the nozzle and the feed tube adapters together and all, nothing fixes it
>>
Replace bowden, jam screwdriver in fan. Constant grinding noise, from bent axle, squeeze fan sides so it grinds a bit off the blades and isn't as loud. THE PRINTING MUST CONTINUE. Damn impressed the whole ender hotend assembly is only $24 total next day shipped. Finally realized the 'popping' noise was the fucking bowden tube sliding in/out of the broken connector.

How low of fan speed can I get away with on PLA with some overhangs? I've been doing 100% all the time but I heard it's bad for layer adhesion. 30% seems to warp horribly. Not sure if I just need to throw it in enclosure or what. The steppers are always hot and painful to touch so I was kinda afraid of baking things more than they already are. I have some enclosures just haven't unboxed them yet.
>>2412986
noice.
Where's the seam?
Could probably do all the pawns and the king/queen in 'one at a time' mode in 'vase' and 'spiralize' mode. I wish there was a way to do 'partial' vase mode for the base of all of these.
>>
>>2413004
Uhhh. Heat up hotend, remove bowden adapter from hotend. Rip cotton off qtip, shove stick in hole, keep swabbing till it's clean.
Thread bowden in most of the way, but leave a few turns left, jam bowden tube all the way down to the bottom so it's hitting the nozzle (make sure the end if cut square!). Screw bowden adapter the rest of the way into hotend.
You probably have gunk in there, or a gap, or both.
>>
>>2413008
so basically skip putting in a small piece of the bowden tube in the middle of the extruder? doesnt that mean if the tube gets jammed I have to replace the entire tube from bowden feeder to the nozzle
what confuses me is why its happening now, the thing was making perfect prints for like a year
>>
>>2413011
>Extruder
Extruder is the gear that pushes the filament.

In any case, any gaps between the nozzle and the tube will cause clogs. A bunch of 'gunk' forms inside the hotend and you need to clean it out. Swapping the tube without cleaning it out will also cause clogs.

Hell, I just replaced the nozzle on one of mine and I'm sure I fucked it up since it takes a *long* time to get an old color completely cleared out. I should have cleaned it out before adding new nozzle. I can push/pull filament and for probably 300mm I'll get occassional spurts of the old color which tells me it's hiding in some gap I created.
>>
>>2413007
Seams are on the other side. With spiralize, you have to print each piece one at a time. Fugg that.

I like the feel of chess pieces with some gravity to them so I printed them thicc and heavy. 6 walls, 7 top bottom layers, 40% infill.
>>
Any anon here have ender s1 pro? might get it to get started but it's also >500
My other option is the pro 3 which is like 200 but it seems outdated by modern day standards.
>>
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Accidentally jam screwdriver into fan again. It stops making grinding noise.
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>>2413007
Just go full fan, and you will end up with a perfect interference fit eventually. This is not rocket science.
>>
>>2413033
When you change filament, do it by hand and push a cm or two through, then pull it back a few mm (to feel the filament lose contact with the nozzle), and then push another few cm, and repeat. I've tried a bunch of different ways, but this seems to work the best, only takes me about 10 cm of filament to get a clean flow with zero duck butter in the mix.
>>
>>2413007
>How low of fan speed can I get away with on PLA with some overhangs?
Depends on your overhangs but anything up to 40-45 degrees can be done with zero cooling. Steeper angles will require quite a bit of cooling.
>I've been doing 100% all the time but I heard it's bad for layer adhesion. 30% seems to warp horribly.
Yes, it is bad for layer adhesion which is why you should not use cooling unless needed. Cura has settings to set the fan speed when printing steep overhangs or bridges. So you can keep a low base fan speed for the entire print but when it starts printing the overhangs it speeds up.
Anyways if you have a standard Ender with the tiny 4010 cooling fan then all of this is for nothing, that tiny fan does fuckall.
>Not sure if I just need to throw it in enclosure or what
Enclosure does the exact opposite. It keeps things nice and warm for longer so that stuff like ABS fuses properly.
>The steppers are always hot and painful to touch so I was kinda afraid of baking things more than they already are
Sounds like you're giving them too much current. The most loaded steppers (Y and extruder) should be quite hot but not so hot that it burns you.
>>
Just got a Prusa Mini the other day and assembled it. After a long battle with getting the first layer calibration finished I started making the nut that was saved on the thumbdrive but it stopped printing halfway through.
>>
>>2413109
Shanta bought a Prusa...
>>
>>2413038
The only thing outdated about the e3pro are the loud ass A9488 stepper drivers.

e3pro+SKR Mini e3v3+BlTouch is pretty much a state of the art printer, practically speaking.
>>
>>2413111
It was my first one, I kind of regret it now. I should have done more research. Trying to troubleshoot it now.
>>
>>2413114
What about the auto bed leveling? I was reading and it seems like that feature is a must for some
>>
>>2413126
In all honesty, you'll probably get it working and not have any problems in the future. Maybe try slicing a model yourself and printing that instead? Could just be a corrupted file on the factory card, happens all the time to politically inconvenient videos.
>>
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Made another of my custom designed shift knobs: 100% infill, 0.1mm layer height, acetone smoothed natural ABS. That stand it's on takes the place of the lid to a mason jar, then you screw the ring on like normal to get a nice vapor chamber.
INB4: "nice buttplug"
>>
Do I need to ventilate ASA? I have a downstairs and upstairs window open, will I die if just run it like that? Do I need to compensate for X/Y shrinkage or should I just set the temps and let her fly and see what happens.

>>2413168
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kVFce1M_QQ

>>2413159
Literally what BLtouch is. Although I'd recommend just some method to manually level the bed (probed or not) vs having the Z axis move up/down to compensate. IMO having the Z only move *up* during a print helps you avoid backlash problems.
>>
>>2411836
faggot
>>
>>2413170
https://youtu.be/TFwXbp9bLlY
The original has much better sound quality
>>2412817
If you live in LA then I'd bet this is the same printer
>>
>>2413170
>Literally what BLtouch is
I searched up the wrong BLtouch bro....
Sorry...

You know what, fuck it, you convinced me to get a ender 3 pro. What am I in for bros
>>
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thinking of making one of these neon signs that use the neon LED rope for my dad's birthday. I want to make my own sign template for it to make it car related (he likes cars). I figure the easiest way to do it would be to model the cross section of the led holder and then draw the linework of whatever logo or symbol and then sweep the cross section on the linework.

can this be done in blender? I know I could do it in freeCAD but it would be a bitch drawing something artistic with freeCAD's tools. I've been told blender is better for things like this but I've only seen it used for clay-like modeling of figurines. I'd be willing to learn it just for this though and cus I'd probably make a neon sign for myself in the future.
>>
Took another look at which 3D printers I can buy.

Is Ender 3 Pro at $99 worth it over a Ender 3 V2 at $200?
>>
>>2413174
is that from the cow chop? man, I loved those guys when they were still a thing, how come they disbanded every single time anyway?
>>
>>2413207
If you are DIY oriented and potentially interested in doing upgrades then you can just get the e3pro. If you are a retard and or don't want to fuck around with the printer, the ender 3 v2 will give you slightly less headaches.
>>
>>2410973
It's plug and chug if you want hand hold just go find a wolfram to do the calculations for you and just enter the values on a curved line.
>>
>>2412211
I have a folder of basic shapes and I will just import one of them (usually cube or sphere) and type the exact dimension I want, then scale to the shape, then delete the shape. It's a shitty kludge, but what are you going to do, have decent slicer software?
>>
>>2413163
Managed to get it fixed and back up and running. I was a little intimidated to start taking things apart but made it work.
>>
>>2413168
nice, does it have a nice weight? I used to buy old pool balls and drill them out for all my shifters.

what is the buttplug stem that it doesn't get eaten by the acetone?
>>
>>2413181
In fusion360 you could make an svg from a high res png and extrude that directly. You could also add a sketch plane and create a path to extrude along, tracing your own work. I'm not sure if you can extrude directly along an svg path, but maybe.

Blender is a whole other story, I don't do technical stuff (like the above) in blender for a good reason. You can extrude a profile on a path in blender sure, but I have no idea how. I'd personally still make the path externally.
>>
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Anyone got sources for sex Toys?
>>
>>2412655
Reporting in, you were right anon. One of the screws wasn't tightened all the way. Unfortunately I think there's something wrong with the threading in the x-axis gantry plate I found a sweet spot and the cura print came out way better. I'll try threadlock or if it doesn't work just print a replacement plate and use a locknut. Thanks a lot
>>
>>2413277
Not bad. ABS? ASA?
Seams could use some work
>>
>>2413232
Yeah, the weight feels really solid, feels more smooth between gears! Been driving stick for over 20 years, so a little difference like that is very noticeable to me. The stand is made of PETG, and it definitely lived up to it's reputation of chemical resistance.
Here's the part file if anyone feels like playing along at home: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5398494
>>
>>2413317
Nice, glad I could help! My favorite thing about 3D printers, is that you can use them to print their own repairs (sometimes).
>>
>>2413172
Thanks
>>
>>2413341
'Tis a hard and lonely road to walk, being an .stl maker...
>>
Here is something I have been doing for over a year on my ender3 with a V6 hotend. I was doing it before with stock hotend too.

I have at the start and end of the print a E move of about 30 mm. At the start it moves 30mm in before doing the purge line and after a print it slowly pulls out 30mm. This way I can change filament when its cold... just have to leave that 30mm gap.
This seems to me to be the right way to do it and not leave material in the hotend when heating or cooling. Does anybody else do something similar? I never see it mentioned anywhere.
>>
should I be worried about the moisture aspect if the paver stone I put under my printer in its open enclosure was still a little damp
>>
>>2413354
No, man... put that fucker in the oven at 450 for a few hours and then let it cool off on you carpet. This is like, day one shit.
>>
>>2413181
>left side
sus
>>
Can anyone point me in the direction of good tutorials for learning how to use Blender and similar 3D software to create printable models? There’s some youtube videos but they vary in directions and I’ve barely used the software before so I’m not sure what to be looking for.
>>
>>2413487
No they all have annoying accents. Just start making something simple and google everything you want to do. Modeling in blender is like 90% loop cuts and extruding.
>>
>>2413487
Have you tried Skillshare?
Skillshare is a state of the art platform for people wanting to learn, just like you. You can have all kinds of classes from basic artforms to computering skills and can learn at your own pace, only for a very small fee. Are you interested?
>>
>>2413487
look on artstation learning (free with an account) or udemy. 3D printable models are usually just 3d models without any flat meshes, for structural purposes
>>
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>>2413487
do the donut tutorial so you can learn how to make the mesh and how to alter it.
otherwise google is your friend. pic related is the first thing I made on my own in blender for myself. Had to do it twice because I completely cocked up the mesh in my first attempt. just got to learn the shortcuts and workflow
>>
>>2413365
>paver at 450 for hours and hours
how to turn your stone into brittle chalk in one easy step
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ei7HbfuQd-s
anybody here have any experience with one of these? It worth the 20 bucks or just some snakeoil shit
>>
>>2413365
>>2413628
Do not do this if it's insanely wet, you're going to crack or break the paver with all that moisture heating and trying to escape
>>
>>2413659
>It worth the 20 bucks
No. 5$ maybe, but 20? With 20$ you can buy a BLtouch clone and have all that leveling shit automated.
I can see it being handy for newer printer users that can't level with a feeler gauge, but if you can then the gauges will probably be more accurate.
>>
>>2413667
BLtouch doesn't live check when you're leveling though, it just goes through after you're done and measures
>>
>>2413669
A 3*3 mesh is not that long to complete, and I'm pretty sure you can have it probe single points repeatedly but I'm not a Gcode wizard so I can't tell you how it's done.
Also, since you now have a probe you can level the bed "close enough" and have the automatic compensation do the rest.
>>
>>2413659
Aside from accurately and automatically determining z offset, what exactly does this do?
Early on the Voron guys were accomplishing this with a rice cooker switch.
>>
>>2413672
I have a larger build plate printer which is why I was curious since the thing takes forever to get leveled decently and the BLtouch doesn't seem to compensate well enough if you're slightly off
>>2413712
I imagine it's about the same deal, just packaged in a prebuilt pcb for lazy cunts like me
>>
>>2413714
>I have a larger build plate printer which is why I was curious
My point still stands, it's nothing you can't do with feeler gauges.

Also this is a thing:
https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#corner-leveling
And I know for sure there also was a slightly different one that used the probe to sense the level at each corner and would wait until you got the bed at the correct level, then it would stow the probe and move on to the next corner.
>>
How tf do I keep bowden tube from moving in/out of the coupler? I trimmed end square, pushed in the retainer, shoved into coupler as far as it could go and added the clip. I even tried grabbing it with pliers and jamming it in further but it doesn't go in anymore. I swapped with a new coupler, cut the ends a few times and tried reinserting, no change. Using capricorn tube but even the stock tube was doing this on one of my machines. I re-cut the end so it doesn't have the 'gash' mark from the coupler teeth.
Ender 3 v2, it moves in/out at the extruder end. Gluing doesn't work because it's teflon.
>>
That's it, it's all going in the trash. You're a bastard boy, a bastard! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1ALzsH-yRs
>>
>>2413754
do you have the right sized clip for the coupler
>>
I'm preparing to print a large capybara, but I'm still not gangster enough to full send it just yet.
The end one will be 933% the size of the smaller ones.
The large one in pic is a test with 0 infill.
What's it like printing large shapes with 0 infill? Should I do a 50% scale to giant size as a test?
The large one is going to take 48 hours with 5% infill or 36 without. I may just do it with infill I guess idk.
>>
>>2413754
the clip just keeps the coupler release from going back in. you either have the wrong size of tube or you're not pulling the coupler release back far enough. the coupler release should come out when you insert the tube anyway, but try pushing the tube in, pulling the coupler release out and then pulling the tube. if that doesn't hold like iron you have the wrong size tube or your coupler is broken.
>>
>>2413785
>What's it like printing large shapes with 0 infill?
they'll be flimsy af I'd guess. vasemode is the only thing I truly do with zero infill, and your capybara is likely going to need internal supports and won't be truly hollow. the real question is why tf would you do 0%? I mean there is no reason I can think of that designing a hollow capybara designed to print hollow with infill and thus dual walls wouldn't be a better solution.
>>
>>2413714
>larger build plate
How large is large?
I've got a CR10 with a 330*330 and 3^2 bed leveling takes at most a minute with a BL touch, probing each point twice. This is insignificant compared to the time to heat up the build plate/preheat the enclosure.
>>
>>2413785
>What's it like printing large shapes with 0 infill?
pure unadulterated suffering.
Keep in mind that proportional to the model both the layer height and extrusion width are much larger in a small part than they are in a large component.
Go with 10~15% infill in your prefered pattern. either cubic(personal favourite) or garloid tend to be the fastest with acceptable top layers. Also consider multiplying the number of top layers by 1.25~2 from what you currently run. i.e. if you're running two top layers run 3, if you're running 3 top layers run 4.
>>
>>2413794
The model is not dual walls. I'm relying on the slicer for it. It is doing 6 wall layers iirc. The 200% scale prints fine with this. Zero internal support
The only reason is for time savings if I were to print many. I'm just not sure how flimsy it would be, the one I have feels incredibly light but still pretty solid.
>>
>>2413758
Of course, it happens on a 100% stock Ender. Replacing the clip with a tightly wound thread to fill the gap didn't change anything. I can't do retractions because the tube just moves instead of the filament. New coupler, original coupler, stock clip, DIY clip, new tube, original tube, new cut end, old end, doesn't change any of it. The tube moves in/out of the coupler the entire retraction distance. Happened even on the stock coupler that I never removed the tube from. Do these things just break from too high of retraction settings?
>>
>>2413801
>garloid
Oh no, I'm not printing any more garloids.
>>
>>2413803
Sounds like you are not inserted it right.
Remove filament, remove clip. Push in tube, should go in over 1cm, like 1.5cm in. If the tube pulls back out it isn't in all the way.
>>
>>2413805
Gyroid.
I genuinely meant gyroid. kek
>>
>>2413033
well I tried this, removed the little insert of tube inside the printer head and stuck just the bowden tube directly inside the thing. jammed it in, tightened it after
Lasted one print and the second print it clogged again
>>
>>2413754
You need to do the hotend fix, bud. Google it.
>>
I might be opening pandora's box here; I've been trying both since my printer arrived last week, but I'd like to hear your more experienced opinions.

What slicer do you prefer, Cura or Prusaslicer? Why? What are each software's strenght and weaknesses? What specific settings do you always like to set?
>>
>>2413876
Cura 4 was good then they fucked things with cura 5. Something happened with the slicer that made circles into mostly-circles but plus some solid infill moves in one direction (literally how). They may have fixed it, but I moved to SuperSlicer and never looked back.

I may try pirating simplify3D some day just to try it
>>
>>2413785
>The large one is going to take 48 hours with 5% infill or 36 without. I may just do it with infill I guess idk.
Holy fuck use a 0.6mm nozzle my dude. If its gonna really big you might even be able to increase layer height and not lose fidelity.

You're definitely going to want some infill for a large size Quandale Dingle so that it doesn't flex then you hold it and manipulate him, even if it will print fine with 0.
>>
>>2413876
At this point the question is whether you intend to use tree supports or not.
Everything else is kind of moot.
>>
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>>2410861
For future reference, the template is linked here:
https://files.catbox.moe/940421.png
The collage can be done here:
https://www.befunky.com/create/collage/
Depending on your browser you might just be able to copy-paste images rather than downloading.
>>
anybody have a good comparison of decibel levels on a prusa mk3 just on a table vs on a stone vs on some foam and a stone?
>>
>>2413934
How can you afford a prusa but can't afford to experiment yourself?
>>
>>2413881
>SuperSlicer
Is it better than prusaslicer?
>>
>>2413965
I simply do not own something to measure audio levels
>>
My CR10 won't budge on the Z axis, no clue why, everything was in working order before... is there a common issue people know about I should be aware of? At first I thought my extruder was jammed but after 5 attempts at the same print and getting hung up on the first 0.2mm lift I realized it's just stuck.
>>
Are there ways to smooth finish a filament 3D print without using paints/topcoats? To like smoothen the solid plastic to make something that's pleasing to hold/touch/look-at ?
>>
>>2413969
Then fuck the foam and paver, you're good bud.
>>
>>2413974
depends on the material you printed with
PLA there are like 50 different ways to smooth a print without sanding and you can look them up on youtube
>>
>>2413977
Well sanding isn't the problem.

Infact, could I print with PLA, sand it smooth, and then use acetone or whatever the chemical it is to vapor bath it and get a fairly nice satin surface on it without paints or primers?
>>
>>2413987
acetone does basically nothing to PLA other than make it sticky until it evaporates off from it
>>
>>2414016
>acetone does basically nothing to PLA
It does if mixed with bleach, but I'm not about to tell this shithole how to make chloroform.
>>
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>>2413987
You need an ABS print to get good acetone smoothing, but pic related is an example of how smooth you can get. For smoothing PLA, you can paint UV reactive resin on and then sand it.
>>
>>2413987
you could do the resin coating technique, sponge brush a tiny amount of UV resin on, hit it with a UV flashlight or leave it in the sun for a while, spritz with IPA and wipe down, repeat till you have a finish you like
>>
>>2414042
Why would bleach + acetone react? Bleach and CLR now that shit will kill you.
>>
>>2414047
>>2414046
But is a resin coating both durable but also good to handle daily? I'm under the impression resin is partially toxic

>>2414016
Thanks, I was getting them mixed up
>>
>>2414066
when its fully cured and washed it's perfectly safe to handle, just wear a filter mask if you sand the resin because the particulates shouldnt get in your lungs
it's durable enough that cosplayers have used it for smoothing big prints but there are different kinds of durability, depends on what you'll be using your print for
>>
>>2413881
Cura 5 has some neat features but it's overall still shitty
>>
>>2414066
I don't know about handling resin really, I just know you can do it, but I personally stick with vapor smoothed ABS if I want shiny. Is this for something that will be going inside your body?
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>>2412878
cura has a "mold" mode which prints any model as a mold (not sure if it's new in v5 or if it was always there)
>>
>>2414102
No, but will be handled alot and chucked inside a backpack so I don't want clearcoat or paint rubbing off in it. Maybe I'm being unreasonable.

But if I'm imagining correctly, I could get my object printed in ABS, sand out the print lines, and then use vapor on it to get a shiny surface? That's kind of what it sounds like and if that's the case then that might be pretty much exactly what I want: no fillers, paints, etc, just the plastic material
>>
>>2414152
You don't even need to sand it, the acetone soaks into the ABS and makes it gooey, then the surface tension pulls everything smooth. Then you take the part out and let the acetone evaporate out, and you are left with pure, clean, ABS, like God intended.
The hardest part of the process is figuring out how to properly fixture your part inside that vapor chamber because it will want to glob onto whatever is holding it in place.
>>
>>2414162
True except your imaginary "god" has nothing to do with it.
>>
>>2414186
>>>/reddit/
>>
>>2414186
You'll come around eventually. I know I did, and I was just like you.
>>
>>2414189
I can imagine how much acetone and volatile compounds you had to huff to "come around"
>>
Jyers' Marlin vs Klipper firmware for the ender 3 V2?
>>
>>2414211
Yes.
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>>2414206
>
>>
>>2414066
>But is a resin coating both durable but also good to handle daily? I'm under the impression resin is partially toxic
lol resin may be toxic, but a cured epoxy is perfectly safe. You likely already own many resin based items, especially if you have a car
>>
>>2414162
Thank you, that sounds awesome, but one concern: Does the acetone weaken the ABS structure at all? Like if my parts have surfaces that are only like 1/3 cm thick, would it make the part bendy, floppy or wavey?
>>
>>2413876
>cura
>prusaslicer

Na, superslicer for me, or slic3r if you wanna go hipster.
>>
>>2410861
Is there any reason to buy a 3D printer other than the Ender 3 v2 for printing guns/gun parts?
>>
>>2414388
>3942 commits behind prusa3d:master.
Literally dead
>>
Not sure if there's a better thread to post in, I'm usually an /ohm/ gremlin.
I have an idea for a musical "synth"/instrument that operates based on the manipulation of physical media. Specifically, it's going to be effectively two cassette player/recorders in series working as a negative feedback loop. A looped piece of cassette tape will travel between the two players. The first player will record some sound on the tape, and the second will read the data back off the tape, to be played as audio and also fed back to the input.

Why I'm here is, when I say "cassette player/recorder", it's pretty much going to have to be a full custom tape deck that I need to make myself. This is going to require tensioners, gears, the whole 9 yards. I'm an EE so I have the electronics covered. When it comes to designing anything hardware related, I know literally nothing. I don't even know what I'll need to know

where can I get started short of "get a Mech.E degree"? As in, what resources should I be looking into for "baby's first mechanical systems"
>>
>>2414406
Those are the botnet and josef shill subroutines
>>
Any idea on what these links are?
I would like to know is the name of these types of bars and whats connecting it at the corner?
>>
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>>2414533
Like what are these???
>>
If I print inside/out walls I get lines that basically make me lose a wall width, if I do outside/in I basically get an extra wall width. It's a slicer setting since multiple printers reproduce the same defect.

Pretty much just using SuperSlicer defaults. I had an almost perfect print with Cura outside/in at 2x the speed but had a few defects when it started the seam on the graphic and dragged a bulge a few CM which effectively added a line width for that layer.

What do? I made yet more gcodes where the volumetric flow is constant and spawned one for inside out and outside in. N
>>2414390
DESU the shittier Ender 3's are noisier but might be more accurate.. The 'noise cancelling' feature of 'silent' boards adds error. There's a Sunlu 8 also for about the same price with a 50% bigger print surface which no one needs but it can't do a BLTouch. Also I think the shitty enders have a supported LCD screen with Klipper.
DESU it seems all the fancy pants designers have Prusas and optimize their wall gaps for their Prusa or maybe they're just retarded and don't notice the gaps.
If you just want something to work a v2 would be fine, the cheaper noisier versions would probably perform the same or better. If you want a flawless print then you'd probably be better off in the $800+ range.
>>
>>2414535
>>2414533
K I found it out if anyone cares they're just aluminum frames with clips on the side.
I was thinking it was a custom part that I needed to print but nvm
>>
Maybe prusa/superslicer/Slic3r works for Prusa owners and retards that never look at their print interals but god damn does that shit have issues.

Cura? No gaps. Slic3r apps? Always tons of fucking gaps everywhere, 1cm+ long and about a line width wide.

Don't believe me? Come on down and let's test fire some prints, you'll get the Slic3r derivatives, I'll do the Cura ones.
>>
Slic3r issues aren't even flow rate related. Even with 10% over-extrusion they still have massive gaps in the walls. You can see it in the slicer program.
Slic3r apps are a no-go on enders for anything firearms related, too many massive air pockets on what should be a solid piece.
Don't believe me? Take a pic of your magwell on layer 70 on your Hoffman lower.
>>
>>2414577
but.. but.. enders suck!
No, the paid devs just sabotaged their tools for people that don't buy shit that lines their pockets. Cura doesn't do retarded stuff with Enders, just Slic3r apps.
>>
Literally just waiting for someone to say that Prusaslicer works great for solid infill on their Ender....
>>
>>2414382
I think it does make the part slightly more brittle, but not anything you would notice unless you are stress cycling multiple thousands of times. For this reason Voron recommends against vapor smoothing their printed printer parts, for example.
>>
>>2414592
>paid devs just sabotaged their tools for people that don't buy shit that lines their pockets
Big claim, why not back it up? slic3r derivatives are all open source software, give us the files and line numbers for the code that sabotages enders, since you know exactly what you're talking about. I'll even make a fork or a patch file to fix the sabotage code.
>>
Alright how would I go about make a silicon mold or rubber mold using 3d printing?
I understand there are ways to make a mold of just the model, but how do I make a mold of a mold?
For example, say I want to make little chocolate hearts from a mold, how would I go about doing that?
I could make a mold using my printer, but I feel like it would be better to have something regarding food put into rubber molds
>>
>>2414719
just go on etsy, some of the dragon dildos are well priced
>>
>>2414722
I don't want to make sex toys, I legitimately want to make chocolate molds
>>
>>2414725
Do you want a one part mold, or a two part? In either case, it's just removing the shape you want from a piece of material, it's just a few more things you have to consider and add if you are making a two part mold, like a sprue and some way to hold the two halves together.
>>
>>2414719
I went down this same rabbit hole recently.
Basically what I settled on was making a "positive" 3d model of my intended candy, then printing in ABS and using acetone smoothing in order to refine the blank. I proceeded to use a food safe platinum cure 2-part silicone to make a mold over these blanks.
I was recommended to just print in PLA and then use UV resin + filler primer and lots of sanding to get a nice smooth part, but just doing ABS + acetone vapor seemed less involved.
Depending on your use case and desired finish, you may find a simple PLA printed part --possibly done with shorter layer lines or something-- to be of acceptable surface finish for your piece.

A lot of 2 part silicones call for vacuum degassing of the combined silicone components before casting (in order to reduce air bubbles that can evolve during curing and cause surface irregularities in the finished mold) but there are low viscosity silicones available which do not require vacuum degassing. Check out the Smooth-On "Mold Star" series for example. The downside is that these low viscosity silicones are often more expensive than the ordinary variety.
>>
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test printed some chainmail to see how the z-movement volume changed with my braced and anchored lack stack and easily the best looking PETG results I've gotten out of this file so far, and silent as hell
>>
>>2414745
>>
>>2414823
how is a strip of LEDs riced out lmao
>>
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>>2414824
>>
>>2413876
Prusaslicer for me, because I'm a freetard and software licensing matters to me
>>
>>2414489
Dunno, we just make dildos here
>>
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MY SHIT KEEPS CLOGGING
YOU WORKED FINE A MONTH AGO
>>
>>2413934
My man Stefan has done it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y08v6PY_7ak

>>2413876
>>2412518
I do wonder if there's anyone out there using Prusaslicer with their ultimaker for some unfathomable reason.
I can imagine someone using Cura on their mk3s though for the odd print needing tree support

>>2414211
Start with Jyers and see how you like it, then go to klipper only if your autism demands it

>>2414709
guy just missed his meds, if anything by his logic cura would be the one more likely to have sabotage. Prusa research is expanding well acquiring companies left and right, while Ultimaker had to sell out to the devil (VC majority, stratasys minority)
>>
>>2414980
Hotend fix. You are the retard.
>>
>>2415053
explain further
I replaced the bowden tube
I replaced the nozzles
I completely cleaned the inside of the hotend
>>
>>2415094
here you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZt
I intentionally left out the last character from the YT code. Google it yourself you lazy fuck!
>>
>>2415109
I already did this you retard, it didnt fix shit
>>
>>2415119
>>2415119
>can't fix his convenience crutch
>the other guy's the retard
>>
>>2415094
did you ensure the bowden was mated against the hotend and nothing leaks out?
does it happen immediately or during longer prints?
does any filament ooze out anywhere in the hotend when heated?
>>
>>2415159
I fully tightened the bowden adapter after already shoving the tube against the nozzle
didnt see any leaks. usually it lasts one print but the second print it stops working
>>
https://youtu.be/G7TA32CWT3U
Chep was useful when I was starting out but now I see he uploads shit like this all the time instead of actual useful things.
Also
>Tinkercad
Ew
>>
god I cannot stand how fucking squeaky overture filament is
>>
I bought some 0.2 and 1.0 milimeter nozzles to try out something that isn't the standard 0.4. However , PrusaSlicer only comes with a 0.4 profile for my ender 3 v2 in the configurator.

What settings do I need to change? Because I assume there are some print/printer settings that must be changed other than nozzle diameter and layer height. Where could I download more profiles for different nozzle sizes for my printer?
>>
>>2415270
just use the same profile but change the nozzle size

As long as you have a max volumetric flowrate and minimum layer time set, prusaslicer will make sure it prints at the right speed.
>>
>>2415288
>>2415270
Okay, now I realized what happens. This is interesting.

I was changing nozzle size to 1, yet the benchy only improved in one minute compared to 0.4, and there weren't many visual differences there; but now I know what was causing it.

In prusaslicer's bundled preset for the ender 3v2, under advanced print options, all the extrusion widths were set manually for a 0.4 nozzle size (1.125*0.4 = 0.45); instead of 0, which lets that value to be calculated automatically for the selected nozzle size.

TLDR: the slicer was letting me set the 1.0mm nozzle, but the flow rate was limited to the one intended for 0.4
>>
>>2415317
And by manually I mean by the guy who did the preset. For some reason he added all the values manually instead of leaving the auto defaults, maybe as a failsafe or something.
>>
>>2415319
>>2415317
A lot of Curas settings are parametric in relation to relevant settings. All you have to do is set your nozzle diameter to 1mm and all related settings will change based on their relationship to nozzle diameter and trying to change them will actually ask you of you're sure you want to set them manually.
Point to Cura.
>>
>>2415388
Ive found that cura tends to make prints considerable longer in time compares to the ones of prusaslicer.

Tres supports look nice tho
>>
>>2415469
Its just down to some of PrusaSlicer's default settings. When you change them to match Cura the print times are equivalent.
>>
>>2413974
acetone
>>
>>2415119
>>
>>2415094
Have you tried getting a better printer?
>>
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It seems like multicolor printers might have come far enough to consider one. I saw the Bambu Lab X1, it's $1000 4 color printer with Lidar on kickstarter. What 4 color printer would you buy now for less instead of backing this?
>>
>>2415624
Also, it supports multiplexing, so you can actually hook 5 up in total and run 16 colors.

It's a ludicrously inefficient setup though.

It's cool, and it does work quite well, but you'll blow a kilo of plastic printing a 16 color benchy that'll take 18hrs. If you think I'm exaggerating, you can check out the reviews.
>>
>>2415624
If you want multi material printing that doesn't suck dicks, idex is the way to go for dual material, tool changers for more than two.

Idex is the only multi-material solution available for FDM/FFF printers that doesn't suck donkey dick. Everything else wastes filament and time, just slows you down and shits your money out all over the place. Idex printers can change material fast as fuck, just get one carriage out of the way and bring the other in. They don't have to purge to change color, just need to prime slightly into the purge bucket in their resting position, so they spit a very SMALL amount of plastic, and they can do it just before the tool-change happens so it doesn't slow anything down.

They all have strengths and weaknesses, but having tried a shit load of printers, including various multi-material tool-changing etc, idex printers are by far the fastest and easiest to use for a home gamer.
>>
>>2415636
>various multi-material tool-changing
Which ones? I only know of e3d toolchanger and prusaXL, are there even any others?
>>
>>2415624
If I needed a new printer, it wasn't a Kickstarter, and I had $1000, I would buy the Bambu in a heartbeat
>>
>>2415636
I saw one that'll straight up just rotate a pair of hotends on a swivel mount. It's kinda goofy and I doubt it's accurate.
Personally the draw of the X1 is the printer itself rather than the neato filament rack. It's got more than enough features and performance to justify the lower rungs of the kickstarter, and the fact that the product itself is finished and the factory is already running makes it even better.
>>2415653
See above. It's basically a preorder for a finished product. If you want it, get it, the price is insane for what it is. Especially the $800 level.
>>
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I need to print eyewear frames
which one do you recommend to print them fast and cheap?
extra points if the plastic is flexible so I won't need screws
>>
>>2415686
I'm curious too, I've never seen stl files for frames but I've been curious as well.
>>
>>2415686
Literally just buy $5 glasses from Zenni.
>>
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>>2415686
>>2415727
are you serious
https://www.printables.com/search/all?q=glasses
>>
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how would you go about modeling the little ridges on this thing here? new to the 3d modeling side of 3d printing. im thinking just model the ridges as individual objects and attach them one by one. or is there an easier way.
>>
>>2415755
Depending on the program you're using, there should be an option when sketching one slot to do a circular sketch pattern, then change how much of the pattern is put on the rim based on degrees
then just use an extruded cut to desired depth
>>
>>2415760
im using blender so ill start checking online for how to do that on there thanks
>>
>>2415755
one cylindrical extrude to form the outer body extents
next, cylindrical extrude to form the main cutout
cylindrical extrude to form the hub on the bottom
cylindrical extrude to form the ID of the hub
Extrude one of the cutouts for the spokes
pattern that cutout about the central axis 6 times
typically bevel gears are made with an angle on them but yours looks flat for some reason. Probably low wear anyway. You'll want to create a plane through the center of the part and perpendicular to one of the start valleys. Extrude a triangular cut (may want to add a radius on the top edges and bottom) that forms a groove. Measure the angle between that and the end groove, and count the number of grooves. Circular pattern about the center based on the angle extent and number of grooves you need to make.
There are some issues with this; you'll have a variable thickness peak but it looks like you have that anyway on the image you posted.
add fillets as needed.
>>
>>2415761
>that
>blender
NGMI if that's supposed to be a functional replacement; you need something like fusion360, solidworks, onshape, etc.
>>
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>>2415763
ive been using blender for the other parts and theyve come out fine, whats wrong with blender? are those other programs easier to work with or what?
>>
>>2415762
>>
>>2415764
>are those other programs easier to work with or what?
yes, for anything where you need to deal with measurements and whatnot but godspeed if it works for you. Parmetric CAD like what I mentioned the workflow is typically sketch a feature (revolved, extruded, lofted) with constraints on a sketch profile where you can adjust dimensions and geometry constraints to control the sketch and then control the extent of the feature. Models are built as solid geometry. You never deal with manual mesh manipulation or generation; that comes in the end when you tell it 'ok I'm done now shit out an .stl for me please'.
Pic related; drew that rectangle as a sketch, now I'm telling onshape to cut out in both directions anything it comes in contact with. Defining these features sequentially, you can go back and redo earlier parts of the model if you need to change them in the future without breaking everything else, provided you set the features up logically.
>>
>>2415767
Blender is supposedly getting CAD features soon
>>
>>2415767
oh that does seem a lot easier. If only I knew this sooner
>>
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>>2415767
Example; ~6min to do with some fucking around. This is with Onshape but any will do; I just use this since its free version is easy to work with.
>>
>>2415772
Blender is getting what pretends to be CAD features.
Be a grown up and learn real parametric modeling. It's literally ten times easier than mesh manipulation like Blender anyway.
>>
>>2415780
How is onshape free working for you? What is it missing feature-wise vs the lowest tier paid option, other than no private design (which is fine, Im a hobbyist)? Im a freetard so having something that just werks on linux is a big benefit
>>
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>>2415624
>DRM on filament spools
the Juicero of printers
>>
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How hard can you triforce?
>>
>>2415850
Ew... are you kidding me? I knew those slant eyed devils were going to try something Jewey.
>>
>>2415852
That's just a triangle
>>
If I wanted to acetone smooth something big in ABS, how retarded is the idea of using a big carboard box? Would it be able to hold the vapor long enough to do the job, or just absorb / leak it out
>>
>>2415850
>>2415856
there's generic materials option you dumbass
just that if you buy their filament it will auto-ID on the multi material unit
>>
>>2415850
the xyz da vinci of 3d printers
>>
>>2415845
It's great and i recommend it highly for beginners. What you miss compared to other software are things like FEA simulation for loads or rendering, for modeling and assemblies it's not gimped at all as far as i know.
>Paid CAD
Lol. CAD is an industry game, paid licenses are typically in the thousands of dollars per year. Fusion 360 is the only one i can think of that has a lower cost hobbyist license available. If you want to suffer you could try freeCAD but it is absolute dogshit. If you are a student you can typically get free licenses for industry software like SOLIDWORKS, Creo, Autodesk Inventor, etc. Or pirate. Being industry software typically only Windows is supported afaik. For that reason Onshape may be a good option since it runs in a browser.
>>
>>2415850
Industry spools have had this shit for years. Thanks Stratasys! We love you!
>>
I need a 3D-CAD program that lets me design some crazy ass gadgets with bearings, magnets, coils and lets me simulate them.

I'd really like "AutoDesk inventor", but that shits expensive.
I'm not a student, nor work anywhere CAD is done.
Is torrenting a cracked version ever malware free?
Is using a keygen foolproof?

I do admit I totally loved FreeCAD, but it don't physics simulate a moving generator model.
>>
A few outer perimeter layers gets banding/pulled in or out a wall width a few times during the print depending on whether i'm doing inside/outside walls first. All printers will repro the same defect in same spots for that gcode but the location varies depending on the settings. Printing at very high speed makes it almost flawless but constant volumetric speed doesn't help (at a low speed).
>>
>>2416040
>I'm not a student
Either buy a .edu email account for $5 on reddit, or torrent the program and run it in a virtual machine which doesn't have network access.
Sometimes the reason that these commercial softwares remain the industry standard is because they really are better than the open source alternatives
>>
Is the Ender PTFE liner not the same thing as the bowden tube? Did I just gas myself cranking a capricon tube up to 260C to print some ABS?
>>
>>2416070
yes you did
swap to a capricorn tube or upgrade to a direct drive
>>
>>2416070
Long story short: if you're going to do lots of high nozzle temp printing for things like ABS, you may be wise to consider using an all-metal hotend, even if it's just a cheap clone. These all-metal hotends do not have a PTFE liner in the hot zone of the hot end which could cause fumes or issues. (that's basically the entire point of an all-metal hotend)

The bowden tube is the PTFE tube between the extruder and the hotend (assuming that you aren't using a direct drive setup which mounts the extruder directly on the moving hotend)
Your hot end also has a PTFE liner in it with certain OEM stock hotends, including the one that came with your Ender 3. The idea here is that this liner is what may(?) release toxic fumes during high nozzle temperature operation.

If you use an aftermarket all-metal hotend, then hopefully it's heatbreak and heatsink are effective enough at their jobs that no harmful amount of heat will travel up the bowden tube and cause issues.
The purpose of the heatbreak and heatsink on the hotend is to hopefully prevent harmful heat from traveling from the nozzle/hotzone up the the bowden tube and causing degradation of the tube and other clogging or flow issues.
>>
>>2415755
radial pattern in fusion 360
>>
>>2416040
>Is torrenting a cracked version ever malware free?
Yes, always has been.
Currently torrent malware revolves around fake torrents with ~10MB executables that hog most of the results page. Legit ones are pretty easy to spot, they're usually several GB. Solidworks 2020 is 15GB for example.
>Is using a keygen foolproof?
Not really, you usually need some other cracks to the software. Quality torrents have all this packaged and come with install instructions.

And remember, once you're done installing block all that shit in your firewall. Apparently some companies don't like you pirating their shit.
>>
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>>2416040
>perpetual motion device
sure, good luck anon, but be careful, if you use big name software the establishment will track and analyze your designs and come after you if you get too close to the truth
trust no one
>>
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>>2416040
>>
Do I need an all-metal hot end to print PETG or not?
>>
>>2416162
you don't NEED-need one but it'll make things easier in the long run
just make sure you prep it to prevent heat creep because 90% of the all metal options have AWFUL heatbreaks
>>
>>2416165
>just make sure you prep it to prevent heat creep because 90% of the all metal options have AWFUL heatbreaks
Hold up, I thought the entire concept with all-metal hotends was that they bypassed the issue of heat traveling from the nozzle area/hotzone to the PTFE bowden tube??
How would you "prep it" to address this? Do you mean adding additional fans or a different shroud or wat?
>>
>>2416179
fans, swapping from silicone socks to ceramic tape on the heater block
I got a micro-swiss hot end on my e3 and immediately had prints failing over a certain print time because the heat creep would build up even with fans on full
>>
>>2416182
god dammit lol-- my micro swiss is arriving tomorrow and I was super hyped about printing with ABS tomorrow, but now I'm wondering if it's going to work..... I only have stock cooling fans and shroud and a silicone sock
>>
>>2416194
might as well still print a test and see if any issues arise
>>
>>2410915
ender 3 s1 pro is garbage and support is abysmal. definitely not good to go out of the box.. firmware is janky and sometimes does randomly initiate print sequence when trying to level the bed, oh snd don't get me started on the "auto level feature" lol
>>
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Made a small keychain to own the libs
>>
>>2416250
>the incel version of resister cake binging
go you
>>
>>2416253
Whatever nigger
>>
>>2416250
fix that under extrusion guy
>>
>>2416260
No
>>
>>2416255
>t. scared 23andme would confirm his worst nightmares
>>
>>2416265
>reps the losing side
>won't even put in the bare minimum to make it look good
imagine my shock
>>
>>2416272
Who gives their DNA to jews?
>>
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I have an ender 3 s1, i'm using prusa slicer.

Recently it seems as though every part I slice winds up that the first thing the printer does is drive the gantry straight down into the build plate making horrible noises.

I tried releveling, rehoming, resetting the z-axis, tightened all the screws. I printed out a test cube I had saved and it seemed to work okay.

Not sure what else can it be, I'm thinking something in the slicer settings but I haven't changed much there

wat do I do?
>>
>>2416289
2416250's mom calls them "donors"
>>
>>2416278
Ain't doing shit about it at 1am bud, quality's good enough for practical parts.
>>
>>2416300
>practical parts
>incel keychain
>>
>>2416308
Yeah, not the only thing I'm printing, bud, not that you'd know.
>>
>>2416311
>i print all kinds of out-of-tolerance parts to "own the libs"
ok?
>>
>>2416323
0.2mm is good enough for me :) I love how mad you are about this.
>>
>>2416120
>Anon simultaneously has information that would lead to Hilary Clinton's arrest and plans for a perpetual motion machine.
Rip anon.
>>
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>>2416330
I think there's a solid three ripping on you. Not for the SS keychain, but for your reluctance to do things right, you lazy nigger.
>>
>>2416330
>bud
>bud
>I love how mad you are about this
sure i'm the mad one
>>
>>2416334
i didn't mind the ss keychain, but did low key chuckle when he thought he was pwning anyone with it
>>
>>2416338
Not a fan of esoterics? That's fine, you may have autism, lurk some more and you'll get it.
>>
>>2416334
>Do things right
Reaching much?
>>
>>2416341
you're the one too low-quality and off-kilter for Hot Topic
>>
>>2416337
Thank's for the (you)'s
>>
>>2416347
>Thank's
more user error from underextrusionanon
>>
>>2416344
not when you're the one too lazy to calibrate your e-steps
>>
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>>2416365
Let's see your prints, anon.
>>
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Can I drill through a few millimeters of a print without it cracking apart? I feel like I should add screw holes in my model but I feel like it would be easier just to drill it through
>>
>>2416377
>i posted my edge
>i'm already winning the underengineered crap-off
>>
>>2416379
If you add a screw hole then there will be walls for the thread to engage, otherwise you're relying on just the shell thickness/perimeters.
>>
>>2416382
Figures
>>
>>2416390
>t. picrel
>>
>>2416403
A bit too much of a reddit-post for me to understand your insinuation, bucko.
>>
>>2416406
no worries almost-Hot-Topic
>>
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whoever the neo-nazi is, you're retarded and have been replying to bait the whole time

And the redditors need to get the fuck out, now. You have no right to shit on people when you don't even fucking print
>>
>>2416458
fuck off election tourist
>>
>>2416464
Thats bold from a newfag.

And even then, you're not a real newfag, unlike me.
>>
>>2416466
I've been here for over 15 years, I'm an actual newfag
dumb zoomer tourist
>>
>>2416468
The sheer volume of cringe you post would suggest otherwise.

This is a 3d printing thread btw
>>
>>2416517
I'm not the only one clowning on your low quality print bruv
>>
had my first real problem with this prusa and troubleshooting took all of 5 minutes because I could just unscrew the door on the extruder and blast the deformed jammed filament with a heat gun for a few seconds to be able to get a grip on it
this thing is spoiling me after all the trials and tribulations my other printer has put me through
>>
>>2416578
Nice try, Josef.
>>
>>2416458
Fuck Reddit.
I just want to print my dragon dildos in peace.
>>
>>2416520
Bold of you to assume your replying to the anon you think you're replying to
>>
Alright, who here has had success smoothing PLA? I'm going to try some Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) as I couldn't find any Tetrahydrofuran (THF). Looking for any advice on the matter as there is lots of contradictory information online
>>
>>2416040
Solid edge has a hobbyist version that has zero feature restrictions or any cloud bullshit. Windows only though.
Dont torrent solidworks, they actually send lawyers to you.

>>2415946
AFAIK Fusion360 has the cheapest license that allows commercial use so there's a very big appeal there.
>>
My new ender 3v2 stepper motors get REALLY hot, like, burn your finger hot. Is this normal? I want to get the most mileage out of my machine...
>>
>>2416646
>they actually send lawyers to you
This is bullshit by the way, they have very little chance to prove you're using pirated versions so long as you block any and all access to the outside world from any dassault software part and even if you do, don't use a system registered in your name or with your microsoft accounts. That being said, don't mix any pirated version files with legal version files, meaning that don't make solidparts or -assemblies in pirated version and the publish or use them in legal versions.

Dassault is really cucking themselves by not making learning solidworks easier, if you want to be an industry standard and stay that way, you should acquire as many adequate users onto your platform as possible. Barrier for entry is a huge waste of possible talent.
>>
>>2416651
you'd still get lawyers hassling you, I'm saying just avoid the trouble altogether. Even if you have isolated VM etc that's one misclick away from it phoning back to the mothership.

Agree that they're retarded though, their hobbyist version is $99/yr and supposedly quite buggy.
I dont see any reason for a hobbyist to use it vs fusion360 (if you want tons of tutorials) or solid edge (if you want full CAD features).
And once you got on fusion360 they also have the cheapest commercial version should you want to scale up.
>>
>>2416651
>Dassault is really cucking themselves
If there is one thing that the French are known for, it is cucking themselves for really stupid reasons.
See: Paris demographics
>>
>>2416652
Fortunately the burden of proof is on the lawyers, so you can just throw their letters into the trash. You don't even need to run VM's, just never register any computers in your own name.
>>
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>>2416646
>Solid edge
https://www.plm.automation.siemens.com/plmapp/education/solid-edge/en_us/free-software/community
>Note: Files created in this edition cannot be opened in commercial versions of Solid Edge and 2D drawings are watermarked, but your designed parts and assemblies can be 3D printed so you can easily create prototypes.
Any idea if I can export the parts as 3D filetypes a metalwork SCADA machinist can use to mill & lathe?
>>
>>2416676
thats why I said no feature restrictions, even the simulation stuff is there. What few restrictions there are should not affect a hobbyist.
no idea what a metalwork scada machinist uses, this thing will export STEP files, would that work?
The most annoying thing is the lack of tutorials vs fusion360
>>
>>2414745
For what purpose?
You do understand that in order to illuminate something, light has to shine on the subject and not directly into your eyeballs, right?
>>
Hi
I have a problem: I'm building my own 3d printer and trying to connect a single stepper driver to 5 extrudersin firemware. The printer has 5 interchangable tools powered only by one motor. In the klipper firemware error pops up saying that i've used the same pin multiple times. Is there a way to make it work?
>>
>>2416740
>Is there a way to make it work?
yeah by compiling your own firmware without the error message
>>
>>2416704
light bounces around to give a more full illumination
and if I need to get in there and look at something having multiple light sources helps prevent the light getting blocked out in the process
>>
>>2416162
no I print PETG on a stock monoprice mini delta with no issues.
>>
>>2416290
your default profile will be added to the start of every gcode file. for example my startup sequence is:
>extrude
>wait
>bed level test
>wait
>start print

your profile either got corrupted or defaulted. you should be able to google a slicer header and footer for your printer.
>>
>>2416630
those are tight. I think you should start with ABS not PLA.
>>
>>2416646
I think OnShape is the cheapest
>>
>>2416878
Solidworks is the cheapest as it is easiest to pirate.
>>
>>2416250
Very nice
>>
>>2416928
isn't solidworks the one you can get for joining an airplane club? also you don't have to pirate Fusion360
>>
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>>2416876
thank you

I reinstalled prusa slicer, they had an update for the ender, i rescliced an xyz cube with the settings i want to use and not printing a test piece, didn't crash so hopefully that fixed it
>>
>>2416693
>STEP files, would that work?
no, but it can be imported then exported as whatevers needed.
Thanks, this can still work.
>>
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>>2416119
Thanks anon.
Its slow going but should be ready in a few days.
>>
opinions on G10 build plates? I've been seeing people shill it recently for PETG and was curious
>>
>>2417303
PEI is probably better, but I haven't had that kind of build plate. Mine is a thicker piece of G10 and it's basically like glass, but does need glue stick or glue slurry to make PETG stick.
>>
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I'm messing around with a .8mm nozzle on .4mm layer height and .8mm line width, and keep getting this error. What does that even mean? Happens when it's making the bridge move at the top of the windshield on a benchy.
>>
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>>2417346
Lets see if option 2 here does it...
>>
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>>2417346
>>2417347
And there we have it: an 18 minute tard-benchie.
>>
>>2416965
no more free solidworks from the airplane club, only half-off the price of the hobbyist license
you're gonna spend $100 anyway in the end
basically dassault is retarded like >>2416651 says

>>2417303
I have one, works wonderfully for PLA and PETG up until my ender broke due to unrelated hamfisted repair attempt

I recall needing glue stick once or twice but mostly works fine without it
>>
>>2417350
looks pretty good to me.
>>
>>2417394
^this
>>
I just got an ender 3 pro and Im trying to print petg on a 0.8mm nozzle. But I keep getting thermal runaway errors and my extruder is skipping despite upgrading to a dual gear.
I dont get the thermal runaway errors if I stay below 225ish but that temp is too low and Im getting warping issues and worse back pressure. Also tried pid tuning at 240c.
Any advice?
>>
>>2417534
your thermistor is bad, mainboard is bad, or somehow you totally knackered the firmware

You don't need to pid tune for higher print temps, solve your main issue then you'll probably be able to print at a higher temp with better flow. Assuming you aren't trying to push 20mm^3/s through a stock ender heating block or something
>>
Does anybody know how to adjust the height of the nozzles on a Qidi X-pro? The left nozzle on the one I got was slightly lower than the right, and Im tired of re-leveling the build plate to compensate every time I use a different nozzle or use both of them in a print, or having the left nozzle slowly knock over the stuff printed by the right even when not in use because it hangs down slightly lower.

Also, I am currently printing a part with PETG and it is being a bitch and a half. Bed adhesion is very problematic, much more so than it normally has been. I have tried adjusting bed and extrude temperatures, and re-leveled the build plate with various tweaks dozens of times. I even tried adding a z-offset of 0.02 mm because I read that apparently PETG likes to be "laid down" instead of pressed into the build plate like PLA does.

I am also noticing 2 things which I think might be inter-related as well. First, I am hearing a repetitive clicking noise when it is extruding. It sounds kind of like what the filament would do as it un-spools and pops over from one grove made by the filament below it to another groove, like tension being released. I'm thinking that the sound I might be hearing is the extruder trying to grab the filament and it is slipping or something, possibly because I have the build plate too close to the nozzle and/or the temperature is too low. The other thing I am noticing is that the outside of the nozzle seems to be collecting a lot of extra plastic that is melting onto the outside. Im guessing this is an issue because that plastic is supposed to be on the build plate and/or model, but I have also seen it "grab" lines off the build plate that did adhere and pull them up.


On the subject of nozzles, do they ever need to be replaced? If so, why, and what are the indicators that it is time to do so? Are there other parts that should be regularly replaced, or maintenance like lubrication that I should be doing?
>>
>>2417567
TLDR:

>> A) How do I adjust the height of a single nozzle on a Qidi X-Pro?

>> B) Why am I sometimes hearing a "clicking" sound when printing?

>> C) Is there any regular maintenance I should be doing, and if so, how often? (ie, oiling slide bars, build plate screw, bearings, etc, replacing nozzles, cleaning, etc)
>>
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What the heck are these kind of coupling mechanisms called? I've tried searching for various things on Thingiverse, but I can't seem to find a single one of these there.

As the lower part goes up, it pushes the upper parts apart, which then swing back and thereby lock the lower part in place until released.

Worst case scenario, I'll just do a few versions until I get something balanced that works, but I thought I could see if someone has done it already to save some time.
>>
>>2417686
insert ponos
>>
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new printer handled PETG just fine, supports were even easier to get off than the PLA prints
>>
>>2417686
Garrapito mechanism.
>>
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wanted to see if a 3D-printed backflow incense burner would work so I found one online

turns out it works just fine
and additive manufacturing would allow for some crazy geometries...hmm
>>
does PLA+ have the same cancer fumes as regular PLA
>>
>>2417923
How many loads is that?
>>
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14:30 with brim, .6mm nozzle.



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