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08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
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Last thread: >>2379517

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
>>2382695
First for PLA is actually a pretty decent material.
>>
Company I worked at shutdown and I made off with this printer
>>
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>tfw barely fits on my voron bed.

If anyone cares its nevermore micro edition. Just helps circulate heat and filters the fumes in the chamber.
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>>2382714
So you admit to a felony on 4chan?
>>
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I'm trying to build a feed trough but the higher I go the more the layers start to separate.
>>
>>2382760
I hate to say it, but you need to do a complete maintenance check on your printer. Which printer is it?
>>
>>2382766
Ender 3.
>>
>>2382760
I don't see the problem here
>>
>>2382771
These spaces increase in width and frequency the higher the print goes.
>>
>>2382772
What spaces?
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Anything I can do for better overhangs? My top layer or bottom in this case never adheres well.
>>
I just replaced my lead screws in an attempt to fix some wobble and these new ones have different measurements so with my current settings they travel twice as far on my Z than they should, the video I watched for replacing them explained the calculation to figure out what your new setting should be but they don't say what m-code it was, anybody know offhand? I'm dogshit with google
>>
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>>2382723
I too am going to build a Voron 0, fren. I had these parts printed a while ago but I promised myself to finish my Ratrig before the actual build.

Which kit did you get?
>>
>>2382839
Does that green glow under a black light, or did you get cucked?
>>
Stupid dumb question. My printer's fans run at 24v, were I connect 2 12v blower fan together for cooling, I'd split the load, right, without having to use a converter?
>>
>>2382839
I went with formbot, after looking around on what kits I am happy with formbot one. Few things to note though.
>Most all of the wiring is long enough except the one wire from your Power supply to the SKR mini

^^ I was following the vorondesign manual and I mounted my SKR the way they did in the manual, if I noticed it ahead of time I would have changed it so I can use the provided already made wiring, Its not a huge deal since I already have the wiring and connectors to make a longer one. I normally mention this in case someone wants to avoid the minor inconvenience.

>panels cut tolerance

This one is just something I noticed. One of the side panels is almost too long for me to put a bolt through printed panel holder to tighten into the nut, again, at some point I'll take it off and cut it slightly shorter.

Another panel is barely long enough for one of the top hat pieces, I mean it works, just need to keep it mind that if its not positioned right it will leave a big enough gap where you realize your AC vent in your apartment was essentially pointing at it and blowing cold air directly in the chamber.. lol

Even though the formbot was satisfactory, I may end up buying a LDO kit for my trident or 2.4 depending on the price difference.

LDO is a "kit" but the other sellers, like formbot, fysetc, blurolls etc.. these are more BOM in a box


>>2382848
I always liked that shade of green. I wouldn't be surprised if thats Inland/eSun peak green ABS.
>>
>>2382839
>>2382902

Oh, I forgot to mention the textured PEI is also very tight fit, its been working great, I just spend too long trying to align it, I ordered a Energetic3D double sided texture PEI, custom size 125x125 so I don't have to fuck around with lining up.
>>
>>2382772
that looks like Z axis bind, if you print something else does it also have the same lines and in the same places?
>>
>>2382794
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html
If at all possible, run an M503 and copy down/screenshot what the terminal spits out.
Then you run your M92, followed by M500 to save your new settings.
>>
>>2382760
You must have an ender 3.
>>
>>2382784
You're printing to cold, you need to print a temperature tower. Every roll of filament, I'll print a temp tower, even if it's basic pla. It takes like 20 minutes to print. Then you'll know what temperature that specific roll likes best.
>>
any of you fuck w/printing pics? what colors materials do you use?
>>
>>2382794
If you use a bltouch or some sort of probe, replace your bed springs with hard spacers. It fixes this issue entirely. Been printing 2 years without bed springs.
>>
adding magnets to my prints is so fucking annoying when the extruded has metal parts on it which always sucks the magnets out so i have to superglue them
>>
>>2383032
So set your gcode to park the head when you're suppose to add the magnets genius.
>>
>>2383034
are you retarded? the extruder has to print over the magnets to seal them in
>>
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>>2383032
copper hotend ftw.
>>2383018
Something that's easy to print with good resolution. So PLA/PETG with thin walls.
I might try my hand with this handsome fella later this week if I get the printer time.
>>
>>2383041
Are you printing abrasives?
>>
>>2383041
prob easier to leave a hole and then fill that with epoxy or something and usually magnets wont work under a lot of plastic and i usually see them in the surface hotglued and painted over

>>2383071
post ur thingy and I might print it too lemme know what filament brand/color youre using mine printed in a couple hours, its about 3.5 x2
>>
>>2383077
>magnets wont work under a lot of plasti
i use magnets all the time, i put them under 3 layers usually and they work just fine. as long as you use at least a 0.25cm thick rare earth
>>
>>2383041
Glue is your friend.
>>
>>2382848
>>2382902
It's Hatchbox neon green ABS. It looks way more vibrant in real life.

Black parts are Inland black ABS.
>>
>>2383071
post moot stl
>>
is there any practical use for snapped off supports/skirts/brims or other PLA pieces that would otherwise be thrown away? It feels kind of wasteful to just toss them out since you can kind of remelt them but I'm not sure what the hell I would do with them
>>
>>2383341
print an injection molding machine out of abs and it should be able to do PLA shots
>>
>>2382695
All right I've been printing for quite a while now on my basic ass Ender 3 pro, generally managed to figure shit out. Having a real clogging problem right now though, and can't seem to get it fixed. I've taken apart and cleaned out my hot end a couple times before, but it seems to clog right back up. I'm thinking about gettting an all-metal hot end but it seems like they have clogging issues too. What should I be looking at here? Better tubes than the stock, or maybe a direct drive extruder?
>>
Hi guys!
I just got an Ender3 from Microcenter for $100!
What kind of problems should I expect and how much should I spent to not have problems?
>>
>>2383341
If you have space and motivation you can make your own recycler/respooler but I sure don’t. So I just have a box of waste that I hope to be able to recycle eventually.
>>
>>2383403
Just start printing and report back if you find any issues.
>>
>>2383341
I use them for my injection molding machine.
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>>2383432
Weapons are a banned topic, take it to r*ddit you fucking faggot.
>>
>>2383437
But it's a nerf gun, not a weapon
>>
if I lose internet while a print is going and the printer is connected via USB to my computer with that chrome gcode sender running it wont fuck the print will it
>>
>>2383437
>Weapons are a banned topic
Thats a boilerplate warning to keep people from making pipe shotguns and pipebombs you fag.
>>
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new lead screws show no real difference in z-banding and it's all at the same or similar layers, and I really doubt the new screws were warped similarly enough to cause the same aberrations at the same points, currently at a loss as to what could be causing this now
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>>2382759
yeah pretty much. what are you gonna do about it?
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>>2383498
Well now I know where one of my 39 machines that disappeared went to. I'll see you in court. Thanks for bragging online.
>>
>>2383493
does this seem too consistent to be a result of bad PID tuning?
>>
>>2383527
does your hot end temp fluctuate while printing? if so then doing a PID tune will at least rule it out
>>
>>2383539
very rarely I see it jump like 3-4c either when it's first warming or near the end of prints
but I have another cube printing with pid tuning done, will see how it turns out
>>
>>2383493
>>2383527
>>2383540
Nah no real difference still, guess I'll keep trying shit in the morning
>>
>>2383493
is your bed stable? i had to replace the springs on my monoprice select mini because they were too soft, and as soon as a print went over 50g they would start to sag, and with rapid movements of the bed it would sort of wobble, giving weird banding on upper layers.
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>>2383593
Very nice, is that PLA? Now, prepare for the one r*dditor that frequents these threads to get his panties twisted because "muh werpons".
>>
Hi yall
I recently opened up a box that was sitting on the garage shelf for like 7 or 8 years and starting assembling a printer I bought way back then. Its an old school prusa mendel with a full electronics package etc. It was bought in a few separate packages, which as far as I can tell fit pretty well and function as designed, but the extruder is half missing, and half garbage. What is the going extruder that I can power with a nema17? And are hot ends miles ahead of whatever I got back then?
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>>2383628
If your hotend looks vaguely like this you're probably good to go. A Greg's Wade extruder should be just fine for that printer - nothing fancy, but it still works.
>>
>>2383659
Other than letting you print higher temp materials, do all-metal hot ends do much for you?
>>
>>2383660
Not particularly. If you're planning on sticking to PLA, no reason to upgrade; if you want to do ABS and PETG, the PTFE tube in a non-all-metal hotend will degrade over time and need to be replaced more often. If you have an AMHE, just stick with it.

>inb4 you can't print PLA with it
everyone who says this is a retard who can't use their printer properly because a decade and four printers later I still have yet to get a single problem with PLA because of an AMHE
>>
>extruder leaks out the top
What the fuck happened?
>>
>>2383666
A serious blockage and backup, satan
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>>2383667
How do I fix it? I thought I cleared it when I took the extruder off and screwed it back on but now it's just gotten worse.
>>
>>2383403
In my opinion a bl touch or cr touch is almost mandatory. Without them you will enter a troubleshooting nightmare every 5 or so prints.
>>
>>2383659
Yes, my hot end is similar, thanks!
I have some parts of some weird offshoot of wades, but it's missing parts and has what I consider to be horrible design issues. Do people still make wades? In Australia? Are there printing mercenaries here? I feel pretty ignorant.
>>
>>2383610
I swapped off the stock springs for silicone mounts but maybe mine have worn down already
>>
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>>2383628
Take it from someone that's been upgrading an i3 from the same era with a bear frame and modern electronics and whatnot, your time is far more valuable. It's not worth it.
Save yourself the time, salvage what you can, and just get an ender 3+dual z kit+dragonfly hotend. Especially if you're asking what to buy to upgrade it.
That being said, it was probably as the other anon said some form of wade's extruder or the MK7/MK8 toolhead. You'll need a power supply and driver board+arduino if they're not in that box.
>>
>>2383628
I had that piece of shit. It sucked. I made a frame from a piece of plywood etc upgraded it and it was never good. The only thing good was the price. It was like $150.
>>
How do I switch from ABS to PLA on an ender 3 v2? I'm new to this and I put ABS on it for my first roll without realizing it's more difficult
>>
>>2383874
Heat hotend to 170C, pull abs filament out. If the filament is fighting you, increase temp. Feed in PLA manually until it stops. It helps if you cut your filament at a 45°, that way it doesn't catch on things.
Then heat to 225C and extrude around 100mm of PLA. Set it to cool down, clean up the tumbleweed, and you're good to go. That's about it. Don't let PLA sit there at 225C for longer than necessary.
ABS isn't hard, it just needs an enclosure. It can be a worthwhile project if you're looking for both stronger parts in almost all materials, such as PLA and ABS/ASA, PETG etc.
>>
>>2383874
you want to make sure there's no ABS left in the nozzle, if you have cleaning filament run some through otherwise do like the other anon said and run it at a high temp and force it through, since ABS melts at a higher temp than PLA if there's any ABS left in the nozzle when you're printing at PLA temps it can cause clogs
>>
>>2383874
Just go ahead and try printing with the ABS. In my experience, the difficulty of ABS is very overrated.
>>
>>2383914
it depends on the size and shape of the parts, the higher you go with your layers the stronger the shrinkage stresses on the material get due to temperature differences across its height, ive seen parts rip themselves apart by extreme delamination. also some perimeter footprints can create huge tensions by temperature deltas as well. small parts are just alright to print without chamber, but for the larger pieces i try to prevent drafts and heat my chamber to 30°c with a ceramic heating element before printing, when the print starts it turns off, the printbed gets it up to around 40 later on. havent had any larger parts failing since i built my chamber
>>
>>2383914
>the difficulty of ABS is very overrated.
yeah if you put a box over the printer or have it running in a shed in Australia, or maybe you're using a corexy with a volcano and can print ABS so fast that it needs cooling
>>
>>2383886
>>2383891
Thanks anons. Just realized that because it's actually PLA+ that it prints at a temp closer to ABS so I just left it at 225 and didn't use and cleaning filament. I was definitely over thinking it
>>2383914
Not for me. It wouldn't even stick to the bed and I don't want to make an enclosure right now
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>>2383493
Is it a Prusa?
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Ender 3, 0.8mm nozzle, wood PLA, 10.5 hour print. Rock Gnome.
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>>2384017
ender 5 plus
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>>2384019
Should've got a Prusa then
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>>2384023
xD
>>
>>2384023
Yeah I should've gotten that prusa with a printbed the same size 2 years before the first ones released you're right
>>
>>2383874
I have printed exclusively in ABS (and resin) for five years, for most of that time my enclosure was a cardboard box. Once my glass bed was seasoned with a layer of gluestick, I haven't had a failed print in almost a year and even before that it was rare.

Just try ABS, especially if you plan on sanding the part
>>
>>2384025
>2 years
>implying the prusa xl will release anytime this year.
>>
Are reusable spools worth the hassle? Like can you easily remove the filament to change colors or is it more like you slap filament on them until it runs out and then you replace it?
Would be nice to save that couple bucks per refill.
>>
>>2384084
The benefit's more like "don't have a trash can full of empty spools."
>>
>>2384042
>deleted
That post, while gay, follows the letter of the law where it specifically says
>"creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them, e. g. forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing "
is allowed
I dont get it I guess.
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This looks fucked
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>>2384112
just a leak, clean it off and reseat your nozzle/tighten the heatbreak and adjust your bowden
>>
>>2384116
Is it too early to break out a blowtorch?
>>
>>2384107
That's a stupid rule. People will jerk off over which carbon copy brand of portable tools are best all day but you can't actually show something you made if society deems it a weapon. All 4chan boards end up being consoomer generals.
>>
>>2384123
>this dude likes teal tools.
red tools ftw.
>>
>>2384107
>>2384123
he definitely deleted his own post, that or some faggot mod nukes reported posts without even checking if its legit or not
>>
>>2384131
hell wtf am I saying, I never saw the pic. maybe it was actually a pdf for the fully automatic ar15 spring that drops in, maybe it was cp

but I think he deleted his own post when the usual troll posted the pasta
>>
>>2383513
i took the other 38. see you outside of court
>>
>>2384120
that's definitely a quicker way to ensure it's totally clean but you could probably get away with just heating it and scraping it down with a tool/wire brush, just make sure to really get the threads clean on the nozzle and heatbreak
>>
>>2384133
>>2384131
Pretty sure a janny deleted it, because my nerf gun post is also gone and l definitely didn't delete it myself

To the janny who actually think it's a weapon: No, it's this > thingiverse.com/thing:4797080, just modified to accept the more common elite dart magazine. You can literally see that it has the same mechanism and all
>>
>>2384084
They have their place. If you're the type of person that has located a brand and color that they want to maintain a constant supply of, then finding a spooless variant of that filament will be well worth your while.
If you constantly change colors and materials and don't want to keep a master spool for each one, then they're not for you. They're really not meant to be taken off the spool once you cut the bands.
I find they are worth it for me. Part of it is the savings, part of is just the lack of waste. The middle ground is the cardboard spool which isn't too bad all things considered.
>>
>>2384112
I don't see an issue.
Just heat up and hot tighten your nozzle.
I really don't miss the Mk8.
>>
>>2384207
Yeah the new spider hotend is actually decent if you
A) use custom firmware to unlock 500c
B) print a new fan shroud and cooling duct.
C) figure out what settings work best. I find 3mm retraction to work fine. 2mm and it strings, 4mm and it clogs.
>>
>>2384212
Anon. You need a heater cartridge and thermistor that are good to 500c as well.
Don't fall for creality's marketing. At most with existing hardware it's good to 300c.
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Perfect extruder tension
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>>2382929
I don't know. I don't normally print thing this tall.
>>
Does /diy/ have its own calibration print model
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>>2384207
I managed to clean it up and realised the nozzle was loose. In everything getting blocked up, it's stripped the thread on the block. I'll probably just buy a new one, fuck trying to fix it.
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>>2383493
>>2383561
could this be one or both of the stepper motors for the z axis themselves causing this?

also printed a cube just for fun with the new screws before adjusting their steps
>>
is there a good premium cad software I can pirate or is it all license service shit now?
>>
>>2384266
I'm sure you can find a slightly older version of Inventor or some shit. Fusion is fine. Free version of Inventor is fine. Do whatever
>>
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God fucking dammit moot, fix this.
Why does it bridge along the length when it can do so along the shorter width?
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>>2384253
The one on the left is most likely inconsistent extrusion. Check your extruder e-steps, and have a look at the drive gear to make sure it's tight on the motor shaft. Some early drive gears were bored off center, if this is the case then you're shit out of luck unless you buy a new gear. Another place to look at would be the belt tensions and wheels, making sure belts are sufficiently tight (not too tight) seeing if all vwheels in the carriage are contacting the extrusion. There are four sets of v-wheels. Also have a look that your hotend is tight.
The one on the right is you e-steps for your z motors are too high. This is easy to check and change with a set of calipers.
>>
>>2384410
Set bridging angle manually in settings
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>>2384426
yeah, found it.
cheers.
>>
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>>2384427
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
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>>2384415
I'll recalibrate my extruder steps again, when I swapped out for an aluminum extruder assembly it was extruding a full 100, give or a take a mm because thick marker, belts were loose but I just got tensioners for all three, fixed the bulging on the corners as well
and yeah the right one I knew wouldn't be successful since it was moving nearly 20mm for every 10mm I told it to, halved the steps and got it working with the new lead screws but still these layer aberrations
>>
>>2384156
Do we need to move /3dpg to /k so that everyone can speak freely?
>>
>>2384454
more likely just some anon that's reporting this shit and some janny acquiescing.
Moving things to /k/ would prove detrimental as this is really 98% DIY with the remaining 2% being a weapon related application, thus more likely to be off topic there than it is here. Also the focus of the post wasn't the 'firearm'(A fucking nerf gun for fuck's sake) but the 3d print.
There's also the downsides that the core of really helpful anons that lurk (all five or six of you) might not migrate although /o/,/k/,/diy/ have a lot of crossover.
DIY used to have knife making generals that really wouldn't have fit in /k/.
>>
>>2384449
I calibrate with 150mm and use the caliper edge itself to make a scratch on the filament.
I also don't extrude through the hotend, just let the filament pass though the extruder freely. easier to do with bowden than it is with direct drive, but removing the nozzle isn't that hard.
>>
>>2384465
Isn't it best to keep everything set up when you calibrate for how it will be during actual prints?
>>
>>2384468
Not really. That way if you get underextrusion after calibrating you know your hotend is the issue and not your extruder e-steps. The point of calibrating esteps is to ensure that when your gcode tells the e-motor to push out 100mm of filament it pushes out 100mm, not 105 because it slipped gears during calibration.
I'd rather take away any change of the extruder gears skipping when calibrating. That way if underextrusion is present I can either increase the tension on the extruder, increase temperature, or consider limiting speeds in slicer.
>>
Somebody Redhill me on CLIP 3D Printing. It seems dirt cheap, way faster, and produces higher quality parts. Why haven't you made the transition?
>>
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how the fuck do you make the slicer have the infill density gradually increase toward the top layer to provide a flat surface for the top ??

picrel has this small yellow dot of top layer in the middle of the air across the infill
i know already its going to be a disaster
how do i set up the slicer so that it increases the infill density gradually so that these top layer pieces (that otherwise would float in mid air) have a bed of dense infill structure underneath them (-_-)
>>
is prusa's petg any good or am I better off sticking with eryone
>>
>>2384498
all the vids i find are from 5 to 7 years ago
does the company still exist ?
>seems dirt cheap
by what means ?
cost of printer and consumables or price per part ?
>>
>>2382695
lets say i want to 3D print a model of a tank
i cant find any accurate 3D model of that tank
but i have physical access to a real life one

is there any good software for scanning something that size with a phone or some shit?
>>
it a bad sign that as soon as a print ends my bed now lowers to the lowest point it can sit at?
>>
>>2384231
anon this pic was very aesthetically pleasing
>>
can I build an enclosure out of just straight plexiglass, I've a few sheets of the shit just sitting around but I have no idea how well it keeps heat in
>>
>>2384557
did you update your slicer or something? the latest versions of prusa slicer changed creality start and end gcode for no reason and generally made it more retarded, along with the extra high z lift.

whatever happened it should be a very simple fix, just a setting or tweaking one variable in the slicer
>>
>>2384566
I swapped out the lead screw nuts for pom anti backlash ones
>>
My PiCam stopped working with Mainsail. The Pi4 says the camera is detected, but it's just a blank screen with "00 fps" in Mainsail. Tried unplugging and replugging, a different PiCam, different ribbon cable, and even flashing and setting up on a new, second SD card for the Pi, but still nothing.
Anyone know what might have happened? I'm thinking maybe I touched something and gave it a static shock when I was plugging in a fan.
>>
>>2384283
okay perfect answer, thanks
>>
>>2384509
Simplify3d can do it iirc. Apparently Cura can with these settings

Infill Density 20%
Infill Pattern Cubic
Gradual Infill Steps 2
Gradual Infill Step Height 1.5

Infill density is the max, steps is how many steps it takes to hit the max (from the top of the print), and step height is the height at which a step is taken (in mm). Try it out
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>>2384498
redhill? I'm getting too old for you zoomer language.

>Carbon3D
Their machines are leased at like 150k over a few years.
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>>2384509
prusaslicer has a setting for this as well. It's either adaptive cubic or support cubic.
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>>2384454
no whenever anyone made 3d printing threads on k the tripniggers and furfags would shit up the threads constantly
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>>2384614
*redpill

What about other companies'? Like pic related. Reviews seemed promising at first glance
>>2384529
Printer price primarily.
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>>2384548
The term you're looking for is "photogrammetry"

I don't know any more than that
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>>2384565
It's not so much about insulation as it is preventing drafts and large temp changes, at the very least around the printing area.

So the print doesn't really care if you lose a lot of heat as long as the heat bed can keep up, but obviously it costs more in electricity.
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>>2384653
>Like pic related
???
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>>2384565
No you want a relatively solid enclosure. Maybe if that plexiglass is like at least 1/2 to 3/4" thick it'd be good. Otherwise stick with wood and line it with a radiant barrier.
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>>2384758
I genuinely can't tell if anon wants to ask well meaning question but is too scatter brained to pose it coherently, or a very elaborate (you) bait.
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Is the filament feeder a common consumable?
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>>2384770
its soft metal so I imagine so, I should probably replace mine or get a cheap dual gear extruder, my filament started skipping and ive cleaned the nozzle twice and have been increasing the printing temp
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>>2384770
Are you printing GF nylon with the tension set to mach fuck?
How on earth did you manage that?
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>>2384566
>>2384568
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H4C24PT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Is it possible these are just shitty screws and can't hold the weight of an E5+ bed? Even with my warped stock screws I never had any issue with the bed dropping but this is concerning now, did an autohome and it grinded trying to go lower for a second before beginning to raise since there's no z stopper at the bottom

Googling it seems like the only bet at trying to get the exact lead screws that the machine came with again is through some canadian company that looks sketch, only other screws I can find with the same starts and pitch are all like 500mm+ and I don't want to try cutting them down
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If I post a stl/obj can someone help me fix it? One part of the mesh never actually slices properly and I tried to combine the pieces several times in several programs with just no luck.
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>>2384788
I can have a look.
https://cockfile.com/
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>>2384795
https://a.cockfile.com/BUkOcL.obj
Here's what I've got. Picrel is the model vs how it slices. I would really really appreciate if you can do anything with it. I've printed the other 5/6 parts of the greatsword by now.
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>>2384801
oh, that thing.
if i recall correctly, the holes where the pegs went into had no volume.
What diameter and depth are they supposed to be?
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>>2384802
in millimeters?
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even with every meshfixing option I can only get this :( I have no idea how this happened
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>>2384803
I got it to work. Hang on.
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>>2384819
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>>2384474
no difference after calibrating it again
baffling
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>>2384839
could it be I need to lower my flow rate possibly?
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>>2384548
It's way better to model it yourself. 3d scanning sucks ass.
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>>2384847
nope not that
I guess my nuclear option is lowering the wall count and dealing with having a shitty infill and seeing if that gets rid of this banding
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>>2384819
hey >>2384819
I miss you
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Now my Ender won't play and idk where this wire should go
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>>2384825
Anyway, what I did was open it in prusa slicer, left click, repair using netfabb, and it was all good to go.
At least in Prusaslicer. Then sorry, got distracted with dinner and walking the dog.
Came back, downloaded the latest version of cura and tested it in cura, no dice.
I tried an automated search and repair in meshmixer and parts of the hilt outright disappear. So your issue is back there.
Frankly, my advise is to use prusaslicer for this one. I've uploaded the file, but you should probably try to see what your setup spits out reparing it yourself
https://a.cockfile.com/OjRJcM.stl
Try to tune your supports in prusaslicer before attempting a print this large.
>>2384895
You're going to need a new thermistor. It's fucked. Look for NTC3950, stock ender in so far as I'm aware all use that glass thermistor.
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>>2384914
I appreciate it very very much dude. thanks for the help, I will definitely repeat these steps in the future
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>>2384914
HE PUT A COCK ON IT
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>>2384927
> I will definitely repeat these steps in the future
Now's your chance.
Easiest method is to open your original cock-less stl in prusa slicer, left click the model, repair through netfab, export plate as stl, and slice in cura to see if it works.
Disregard all the shit I did with meshmixer. I think the reason I wasn't able to slice with cura at all is because I configured it in a hurry and probably didn't correctly define my extryuders/nozzles, so it was going to spit an error no matter what.
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>>2384890
Nuclear option last anon. A few things come to mind, one of them I'm not too sure how to fix as I've never owned a single z motor machine.
hardware:
You'd have to look up how to properly level your gantry.
The other is changing out your nozzle if it's been scraping on the glass.
If you touch your hotend, while cold, placing your finger on your nozzle, can you feel it loose? if so, look into tightening/loosening vwheels.
slicer:
What slicer are you using? Do you have a flow multiplier/flow rate that you can set back down to default setting of 100%?
Have you messed with extrusion width at all? Have you done a proper PID tune of your hotend?
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>>2384934
Great, this works. Thank you again so much. I will hopefully post my finished greatsword in a few days.
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>>2384976
Yeah I really don't want to have to go down to hollow on my prints again, I know that a certain balance of walls to infill has a higher strength than just 100% infill using wall count but I prefer the heft combined with better impact resistance

nozzle has kept a good distance from the PEI sheeting since swapping
hotend is secure, have had it loose and had layer shift before and this isn't quite that, and nozzle's seated firm
using cura currently, had it at 105% and then took it back down to 100 for the most recent print and no difference
have PID tuned the hot end but not experimented with extrusion width, just at the default .4mm for the nozzle
currently printing these braces for the tops of both lead screws, gonna shove em together in the morning and see if somehow I just got already warped screws, they were pretty cheap

I've no clue about the gantry stuff so I'll look into that if these braces and then extrusion width don't work
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>>2384977
Why am I getting this error? What am i doing wrong?
haven't used cura in a decade.
it fits in the volume, it's a proper manifold, I don't see how to assign an extruder to it.
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>>2384985
It's too big, the little grey area on the border won't let you print in it unless you modify raft/skirt settings iirc
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>>2384988
>they've included profiles for almost every major filament manufacturer, most of which have meaningless difference in so far as the material remains the same.
>something like temperature, fan percentages, brim, perimeter count, and layer height is hidden under two different dropdown menus.
ok. that's enough cura for me. All I want is for moot to add tree supports to prusaslicer and I'll be the happiest man alive.
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Does anyone have a model for a black sun fidget spinner
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>>2382695
Another episode of the Ender 3 having absolutely no trouble knocking out things not ment to be printed, after failing on making a simple tray.
This boat part was just a exercise in reverse engineering, I had other designs in mind but after losing a rudder I just decided to print one and got a usable part on first go, even if a 0.6 nozzle is a little big.
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>>2384998
No, but you could probably work something with this. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4968184
>>2385006
Jesus anon. Layer height should almost always remain under 75% your nozzle size, otherwise it is very likely you'll get really bad layer bonding.
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>>2385008
This was 0.4mm layer height on a 0.6mm nozzle. Even with a brim it was only 50 min to print.
Layers do seem a little spaced out tho
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>>2385013
How tall is that part? Pic related is an inch tall, 0.4mm layers on a 0.6mm cr10, which basically a large ender 3.
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>exported STL from Autodesk inventor are very low poly count
New to printing. Should I use a different software
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>>2385018
About 3.2 inches
Heres another angle
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>>2385023
In scale that looks much much better.
For thin walls, chemical smoothing has genuine inprovements in strength. ABS is easiest, but DCM isn't hard to come by either.
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how much troubleshooting can you realistically expect to begin printing out of the box with a prusa
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>>2385036
Prusafags will tell you zero, that's why you shelled out the dosh for the PREMIUM EXPERIENCE. You tell me how that goes.
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>>2384636
Fuck Seig.
I've got a barrel jacket on the Ender right now. Just finished a receiver variant I designed earlier today. Just need to cut some pins and drill out the holes for them, then do the folding brace.
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>>2385036
About the same or somewhat less than on an Ender 3 but the bigger ones are much harder to do on the Prusa.
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>>2384927
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>>2385041
when I built my ender 3 I didn't know shit and yet my first print worked perfectly in spite of me not even having the slightest fucking clue and not putting any supports on a part that absolutely needed them. It was like fucking magic
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>>2384914
>NTC3950
Thank you.
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i tried putting some metal pieces into my 3d print but for some reason it printed over them really shitty like this, any idea why?
the metal is like 0.3mm below the edge so it's not like it's touching the nozzle
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>>2384758
>>2384766
I'm retarded. This is pic related
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>>2385260
Metal is cold and overcools the material. You need to design your part where you can put the metal parts in after printing
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Hello printer folks. 3D printer noob here, looking to buy a printer for the first time. I want to buy the cheapest printer that "ticks all the boxes". After a day or two of researching the topic i settled on Creality CR 10 Smart Pro. It has to be at least 250x250, but 300x300 is even better. It cant be smaller because there are specific 245x245 parts i want to print. There are cheaper ones that do this, but this one has a direct drive extruder. Since it seems i will primarily be using PETG, this should give me less of a hassle with stringing. I might later also print some flexible stuff. It also has a 300c nozzle, so if i were to end up wanting to move into advanced materials, all i would have to do is enclose it.

Is this the right decision? Seems all other models fail in the 250x250 department, or a lack of a DD extruder. The only downside i see is the fact that the brand doesnt have the best reputation. But anything better is instantly 2x the money. I cant justify that at this point since i really have to see the what this stuff can do for me first.

Creality CR 10 Smart Pro y/n?
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>>2385280
no
>>2385260
your bridging performance can't be any good normally, there is barely any overlap whatsoever joining the bridge to the rest of the part. The fact that none of the extrsuions actually made it to the other side and touched plastic is very telling. At the very least they would have been melted over a tiny bit had the hotend actually moved there.
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what's the difference between Extruder/hot-end/ and nozzle?
I see a lot of people seeming to use it interchangeably and I've been confused by it
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>>2385288
i wonder if the problem is that after i pause the print and add the metal, i rehome x and y axes before resuming printing. maybe the homing accuracy is shit (inductive sensors) and it causes layer shift and thus it tried printing in the wrong place
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>>2385303
it shouldn't rehome. just move off to a side and hold torque.
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>>2385319
well i was worried that by touching the print and shit i was gone make the steppers skip steps since it's not THAT hard to move them when under power
next time i'll try without rehoming
also is there any gcode to prevent steppers from turning off after a while when paused? (i use m600 for the pause)
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>>2385322
haven't a clue, i've only ever done the inset thing when the prints are less than thirty mins.
anything longer than that and I'll look a different way, like what i'm doing right now where I want a weighted base fo a thing I'm making. Cut a quick slot at the bottom where I'm going to glue in wheel weights.
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>>2385300
they should not be used interchangably. Extruder pushes the plastic to the hotend and the plastic goes out the nozzle. They are not interchangeable.
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>>2385332
thanks bro
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>>2385332
so extruder is the servo with the toothed wheel that is riding on the filament?
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>>2385285
Meh Creality is fine. You can definitely print petg with a bowden. I do it all the time. It just takes a little more care. That said, I always want to do more than what my printer will allow. To get there you can rice out your budget equipment or just buy it all up front. Depends on your personality. More features means you can buy the filament and get after it when you're ready. Otherwise you've got a chore to do before you can even start troubleshooting. Even then you have the problem that your printer was designed for a Bowden and you're throwing more weight on gantry for a DD which can lead to more problems.
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>>2385338
Sort of.
You can consider the extruder to be the assembly including the extruder motor and filament drive gears.
The hotend is the part with the nozzle, heater&thermistor, and heatsink.
On a printer with a bowden extruder, the extruder will be off to one side and only the hotend will be on the printerhead (along with heatsink cooling fan, part cooling fan, bed sensor, etc.)
On a direct drive you have the extruder a very short distance from the hotend on the printer head.
https://all3dp.com/2/direct-vs-bowden-extruder-technology-shootout/
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>>2385344
Bowden chad shits on direct drive virgin because he can fly around at max speeds and instantly change directions due to low mass as if newton's laws don't even exist
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>>2385349
DD is better because you can overcome the downside by simply having a more rigid structure. on modern cnc mills, you have a milling head that weighs a literal ton, yet still flies around like crazy. so a few hundred grams is not the issue. insisting to make the printer out of wimpy off the self alu extrusions is the issue.
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>slicer says 100m of filament.
>markings on spool say 100m left.
>tfw parts completed without triggering the runout sensor by maybe 10mm.
>>2385349
The days of bowden are long gone along with plywood/acrylic frames anon.
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>>2385339
yeah im not interested in having a bunch of leftover parts. just wanna buy once cry once.
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>>2385384
CR6SE is a better printer.
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so I just fired up my ender 3 after replacing the thermistor, but for some reason the temperature seems to oscillate around the target by +-2 degrees C. it didn't do this with the original thermistor.
is this a non-issue or should I be concerned? I'm pretty sure I got the new thermistor seated all the way. perhaps my heater cartridge was damaged when I got thermal runaway? I wouldn't think so because I turned off the printer almost immediately after runaway was detected.
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>>2385391
PID tune.
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>>2385362
yes increase the cost of your printer by $300 just so it can do what bowden already does
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>>2385402
>TPU
kekekeke
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>>2385402
>by $300
You massively underestimate how widely available to makers aluminium extrusions are these days.
Openbuilds and misumi are no longer the only two outlets.
I priced out the extrusion to convert my migbot i3 to an aluminium fram and it came out to around $90 with precut lengths and necessary hardware.
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>>2385407
With a simple extruder mod or a good quality extruder even soft TPU is doable on bowden.
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if PETG is hydroscopic does that mean it's a bad idea to wet sand PETG prints
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>>2385416 after you print it it doesn't matter
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>>2385416
Doesn't matter after it is printed.
During printing moisture matters because it causes pockets of steam.
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>>2385303
after thinking more you could probably fix this completely just by printing bridges slower
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>>2384981
banding seems much better after installing the braces for the tops of the screws, still not perfect but there's only three real noticeable lines near the top of the cube as opposed to all through it, there are those aberrations at the corners but they're not as extreme and your nail doesn't catch on every erroneous layer if you run it down the surface now
need to relevel the bed though, first layer didn't stick quite good enough
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>>2385387
235x235 leaves me short. Why tho?
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>>2383874
ABS isn't that difficult but only PLA prints well on a glass bed (what the v2 comes with).
with ABS you need an enclosure. you should also be aware that ABS offgases poisonous gases while printing whereas PLA/PETG are considered safe under current medical/material knowledge.
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if i print a square peg that is 3x3cm, what size do i have to print a square hole so the peg can be inserted into it and has a nice tright grip from friction but it is possible to remove it? should i make the hole like 3.3x3.3cm? the nozzle size is 0.4mm
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>>2385489
nta but even if you have the build volume to print something bigger in one piece it's always a good idea especially when you're new to printing to cut prints up, less waste in the times that a print fails at the 90% mark
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>>2385498
oh im gonna spend at least a week doing all kinds of test prints before i print any serious project.
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>>2385492
It "depends."
Set slicing tolerance to exclusive and there's a higher than 0% chance that a 3x3 model would fit into a 3x3 hole just fine.
Otherwise, it can also just depend on your printer. You might need a tolerance of only +0.1mm per side, or you might need a tolerance of +0.2mm per side or even +0.3mm per side - you'll probably have to just make test models and testfit before actually doing anything with a long print time.
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>wall goes down nice
>everything else is rough course irritating and gets everywhere
Why?
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>>2385599
have you fiddled with your infil/inner wall/top&bottom layer settings at all
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>>2385605
Not particularly no. I'm using super slicer if that helps
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Nub question here I was searching on the Interwebs at some tabletop figures and saw they sell STL files for 3d printers. How do these work do you get a limited amount of prints from these files or can you print them till ones hearts content
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>>2385617
You don't download them. Someone will show up at your house with a microSD card that has the file. He hangs out until the print is done then leaves with the microSD
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>>2385599
Looks fine to me.Slightly over extruded, but it's a first layer.





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