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Last thread: >>2379517

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
>>2382695
First for PLA is actually a pretty decent material.
>>
Company I worked at shutdown and I made off with this printer
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>tfw barely fits on my voron bed.

If anyone cares its nevermore micro edition. Just helps circulate heat and filters the fumes in the chamber.
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>>2382714
So you admit to a felony on 4chan?
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I'm trying to build a feed trough but the higher I go the more the layers start to separate.
>>
>>2382760
I hate to say it, but you need to do a complete maintenance check on your printer. Which printer is it?
>>
>>2382766
Ender 3.
>>
>>2382760
I don't see the problem here
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>>2382771
These spaces increase in width and frequency the higher the print goes.
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>>2382772
What spaces?
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Anything I can do for better overhangs? My top layer or bottom in this case never adheres well.
>>
I just replaced my lead screws in an attempt to fix some wobble and these new ones have different measurements so with my current settings they travel twice as far on my Z than they should, the video I watched for replacing them explained the calculation to figure out what your new setting should be but they don't say what m-code it was, anybody know offhand? I'm dogshit with google
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>>2382723
I too am going to build a Voron 0, fren. I had these parts printed a while ago but I promised myself to finish my Ratrig before the actual build.

Which kit did you get?
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>>2382839
Does that green glow under a black light, or did you get cucked?
>>
Stupid dumb question. My printer's fans run at 24v, were I connect 2 12v blower fan together for cooling, I'd split the load, right, without having to use a converter?
>>
>>2382839
I went with formbot, after looking around on what kits I am happy with formbot one. Few things to note though.
>Most all of the wiring is long enough except the one wire from your Power supply to the SKR mini

^^ I was following the vorondesign manual and I mounted my SKR the way they did in the manual, if I noticed it ahead of time I would have changed it so I can use the provided already made wiring, Its not a huge deal since I already have the wiring and connectors to make a longer one. I normally mention this in case someone wants to avoid the minor inconvenience.

>panels cut tolerance

This one is just something I noticed. One of the side panels is almost too long for me to put a bolt through printed panel holder to tighten into the nut, again, at some point I'll take it off and cut it slightly shorter.

Another panel is barely long enough for one of the top hat pieces, I mean it works, just need to keep it mind that if its not positioned right it will leave a big enough gap where you realize your AC vent in your apartment was essentially pointing at it and blowing cold air directly in the chamber.. lol

Even though the formbot was satisfactory, I may end up buying a LDO kit for my trident or 2.4 depending on the price difference.

LDO is a "kit" but the other sellers, like formbot, fysetc, blurolls etc.. these are more BOM in a box


>>2382848
I always liked that shade of green. I wouldn't be surprised if thats Inland/eSun peak green ABS.
>>
>>2382839
>>2382902

Oh, I forgot to mention the textured PEI is also very tight fit, its been working great, I just spend too long trying to align it, I ordered a Energetic3D double sided texture PEI, custom size 125x125 so I don't have to fuck around with lining up.
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>>2382772
that looks like Z axis bind, if you print something else does it also have the same lines and in the same places?
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>>2382794
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html
If at all possible, run an M503 and copy down/screenshot what the terminal spits out.
Then you run your M92, followed by M500 to save your new settings.
>>
>>2382760
You must have an ender 3.
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>>2382784
You're printing to cold, you need to print a temperature tower. Every roll of filament, I'll print a temp tower, even if it's basic pla. It takes like 20 minutes to print. Then you'll know what temperature that specific roll likes best.
>>
any of you fuck w/printing pics? what colors materials do you use?
>>
>>2382794
If you use a bltouch or some sort of probe, replace your bed springs with hard spacers. It fixes this issue entirely. Been printing 2 years without bed springs.
>>
adding magnets to my prints is so fucking annoying when the extruded has metal parts on it which always sucks the magnets out so i have to superglue them
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>>2383032
So set your gcode to park the head when you're suppose to add the magnets genius.
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>>2383034
are you retarded? the extruder has to print over the magnets to seal them in
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>>2383032
copper hotend ftw.
>>2383018
Something that's easy to print with good resolution. So PLA/PETG with thin walls.
I might try my hand with this handsome fella later this week if I get the printer time.
>>
>>2383041
Are you printing abrasives?
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>>2383041
prob easier to leave a hole and then fill that with epoxy or something and usually magnets wont work under a lot of plastic and i usually see them in the surface hotglued and painted over

>>2383071
post ur thingy and I might print it too lemme know what filament brand/color youre using mine printed in a couple hours, its about 3.5 x2
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>>2383077
>magnets wont work under a lot of plasti
i use magnets all the time, i put them under 3 layers usually and they work just fine. as long as you use at least a 0.25cm thick rare earth
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>>2383041
Glue is your friend.
>>
>>2382848
>>2382902
It's Hatchbox neon green ABS. It looks way more vibrant in real life.

Black parts are Inland black ABS.
>>
>>2383071
post moot stl
>>
is there any practical use for snapped off supports/skirts/brims or other PLA pieces that would otherwise be thrown away? It feels kind of wasteful to just toss them out since you can kind of remelt them but I'm not sure what the hell I would do with them
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>>2383341
print an injection molding machine out of abs and it should be able to do PLA shots
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>>2382695
All right I've been printing for quite a while now on my basic ass Ender 3 pro, generally managed to figure shit out. Having a real clogging problem right now though, and can't seem to get it fixed. I've taken apart and cleaned out my hot end a couple times before, but it seems to clog right back up. I'm thinking about gettting an all-metal hot end but it seems like they have clogging issues too. What should I be looking at here? Better tubes than the stock, or maybe a direct drive extruder?
>>
Hi guys!
I just got an Ender3 from Microcenter for $100!
What kind of problems should I expect and how much should I spent to not have problems?
>>
>>2383341
If you have space and motivation you can make your own recycler/respooler but I sure don’t. So I just have a box of waste that I hope to be able to recycle eventually.
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>>2383403
Just start printing and report back if you find any issues.
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>>2383341
I use them for my injection molding machine.
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>>2383432
Weapons are a banned topic, take it to r*ddit you fucking faggot.
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>>2383437
But it's a nerf gun, not a weapon
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if I lose internet while a print is going and the printer is connected via USB to my computer with that chrome gcode sender running it wont fuck the print will it
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>>2383437
>Weapons are a banned topic
Thats a boilerplate warning to keep people from making pipe shotguns and pipebombs you fag.
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new lead screws show no real difference in z-banding and it's all at the same or similar layers, and I really doubt the new screws were warped similarly enough to cause the same aberrations at the same points, currently at a loss as to what could be causing this now
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>>2382759
yeah pretty much. what are you gonna do about it?
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>>2383498
Well now I know where one of my 39 machines that disappeared went to. I'll see you in court. Thanks for bragging online.
>>
>>2383493
does this seem too consistent to be a result of bad PID tuning?
>>
>>2383527
does your hot end temp fluctuate while printing? if so then doing a PID tune will at least rule it out
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>>2383539
very rarely I see it jump like 3-4c either when it's first warming or near the end of prints
but I have another cube printing with pid tuning done, will see how it turns out
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>>2383493
>>2383527
>>2383540
Nah no real difference still, guess I'll keep trying shit in the morning
>>
>>2383493
is your bed stable? i had to replace the springs on my monoprice select mini because they were too soft, and as soon as a print went over 50g they would start to sag, and with rapid movements of the bed it would sort of wobble, giving weird banding on upper layers.
>>
>>2383593
Very nice, is that PLA? Now, prepare for the one r*dditor that frequents these threads to get his panties twisted because "muh werpons".
>>
Hi yall
I recently opened up a box that was sitting on the garage shelf for like 7 or 8 years and starting assembling a printer I bought way back then. Its an old school prusa mendel with a full electronics package etc. It was bought in a few separate packages, which as far as I can tell fit pretty well and function as designed, but the extruder is half missing, and half garbage. What is the going extruder that I can power with a nema17? And are hot ends miles ahead of whatever I got back then?
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>>2383628
If your hotend looks vaguely like this you're probably good to go. A Greg's Wade extruder should be just fine for that printer - nothing fancy, but it still works.
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>>2383659
Other than letting you print higher temp materials, do all-metal hot ends do much for you?
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>>2383660
Not particularly. If you're planning on sticking to PLA, no reason to upgrade; if you want to do ABS and PETG, the PTFE tube in a non-all-metal hotend will degrade over time and need to be replaced more often. If you have an AMHE, just stick with it.

>inb4 you can't print PLA with it
everyone who says this is a retard who can't use their printer properly because a decade and four printers later I still have yet to get a single problem with PLA because of an AMHE
>>
>extruder leaks out the top
What the fuck happened?
>>
>>2383666
A serious blockage and backup, satan
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>>2383667
How do I fix it? I thought I cleared it when I took the extruder off and screwed it back on but now it's just gotten worse.
>>
>>2383403
In my opinion a bl touch or cr touch is almost mandatory. Without them you will enter a troubleshooting nightmare every 5 or so prints.
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>>2383659
Yes, my hot end is similar, thanks!
I have some parts of some weird offshoot of wades, but it's missing parts and has what I consider to be horrible design issues. Do people still make wades? In Australia? Are there printing mercenaries here? I feel pretty ignorant.
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>>2383610
I swapped off the stock springs for silicone mounts but maybe mine have worn down already
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>>2383628
Take it from someone that's been upgrading an i3 from the same era with a bear frame and modern electronics and whatnot, your time is far more valuable. It's not worth it.
Save yourself the time, salvage what you can, and just get an ender 3+dual z kit+dragonfly hotend. Especially if you're asking what to buy to upgrade it.
That being said, it was probably as the other anon said some form of wade's extruder or the MK7/MK8 toolhead. You'll need a power supply and driver board+arduino if they're not in that box.
>>
>>2383628
I had that piece of shit. It sucked. I made a frame from a piece of plywood etc upgraded it and it was never good. The only thing good was the price. It was like $150.
>>
How do I switch from ABS to PLA on an ender 3 v2? I'm new to this and I put ABS on it for my first roll without realizing it's more difficult
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>>2383874
Heat hotend to 170C, pull abs filament out. If the filament is fighting you, increase temp. Feed in PLA manually until it stops. It helps if you cut your filament at a 45°, that way it doesn't catch on things.
Then heat to 225C and extrude around 100mm of PLA. Set it to cool down, clean up the tumbleweed, and you're good to go. That's about it. Don't let PLA sit there at 225C for longer than necessary.
ABS isn't hard, it just needs an enclosure. It can be a worthwhile project if you're looking for both stronger parts in almost all materials, such as PLA and ABS/ASA, PETG etc.
>>
>>2383874
you want to make sure there's no ABS left in the nozzle, if you have cleaning filament run some through otherwise do like the other anon said and run it at a high temp and force it through, since ABS melts at a higher temp than PLA if there's any ABS left in the nozzle when you're printing at PLA temps it can cause clogs
>>
>>2383874
Just go ahead and try printing with the ABS. In my experience, the difficulty of ABS is very overrated.
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>>2383914
it depends on the size and shape of the parts, the higher you go with your layers the stronger the shrinkage stresses on the material get due to temperature differences across its height, ive seen parts rip themselves apart by extreme delamination. also some perimeter footprints can create huge tensions by temperature deltas as well. small parts are just alright to print without chamber, but for the larger pieces i try to prevent drafts and heat my chamber to 30°c with a ceramic heating element before printing, when the print starts it turns off, the printbed gets it up to around 40 later on. havent had any larger parts failing since i built my chamber
>>
>>2383914
>the difficulty of ABS is very overrated.
yeah if you put a box over the printer or have it running in a shed in Australia, or maybe you're using a corexy with a volcano and can print ABS so fast that it needs cooling
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>>2383886
>>2383891
Thanks anons. Just realized that because it's actually PLA+ that it prints at a temp closer to ABS so I just left it at 225 and didn't use and cleaning filament. I was definitely over thinking it
>>2383914
Not for me. It wouldn't even stick to the bed and I don't want to make an enclosure right now
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>>2383493
Is it a Prusa?
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Ender 3, 0.8mm nozzle, wood PLA, 10.5 hour print. Rock Gnome.
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>>2384017
ender 5 plus
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>>2384019
Should've got a Prusa then
>>
>>2384023
xD
>>
>>2384023
Yeah I should've gotten that prusa with a printbed the same size 2 years before the first ones released you're right
>>
>>2383874
I have printed exclusively in ABS (and resin) for five years, for most of that time my enclosure was a cardboard box. Once my glass bed was seasoned with a layer of gluestick, I haven't had a failed print in almost a year and even before that it was rare.

Just try ABS, especially if you plan on sanding the part
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>>2384025
>2 years
>implying the prusa xl will release anytime this year.
>>
Are reusable spools worth the hassle? Like can you easily remove the filament to change colors or is it more like you slap filament on them until it runs out and then you replace it?
Would be nice to save that couple bucks per refill.
>>
>>2384084
The benefit's more like "don't have a trash can full of empty spools."
>>
>>2384042
>deleted
That post, while gay, follows the letter of the law where it specifically says
>"creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them, e. g. forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing "
is allowed
I dont get it I guess.
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This looks fucked
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>>2384112
just a leak, clean it off and reseat your nozzle/tighten the heatbreak and adjust your bowden
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>>2384116
Is it too early to break out a blowtorch?
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>>2384107
That's a stupid rule. People will jerk off over which carbon copy brand of portable tools are best all day but you can't actually show something you made if society deems it a weapon. All 4chan boards end up being consoomer generals.
>>
>>2384123
>this dude likes teal tools.
red tools ftw.
>>
>>2384107
>>2384123
he definitely deleted his own post, that or some faggot mod nukes reported posts without even checking if its legit or not
>>
>>2384131
hell wtf am I saying, I never saw the pic. maybe it was actually a pdf for the fully automatic ar15 spring that drops in, maybe it was cp

but I think he deleted his own post when the usual troll posted the pasta
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>>2383513
i took the other 38. see you outside of court
>>
>>2384120
that's definitely a quicker way to ensure it's totally clean but you could probably get away with just heating it and scraping it down with a tool/wire brush, just make sure to really get the threads clean on the nozzle and heatbreak
>>
>>2384133
>>2384131
Pretty sure a janny deleted it, because my nerf gun post is also gone and l definitely didn't delete it myself

To the janny who actually think it's a weapon: No, it's this > thingiverse.com/thing:4797080, just modified to accept the more common elite dart magazine. You can literally see that it has the same mechanism and all
>>
>>2384084
They have their place. If you're the type of person that has located a brand and color that they want to maintain a constant supply of, then finding a spooless variant of that filament will be well worth your while.
If you constantly change colors and materials and don't want to keep a master spool for each one, then they're not for you. They're really not meant to be taken off the spool once you cut the bands.
I find they are worth it for me. Part of it is the savings, part of is just the lack of waste. The middle ground is the cardboard spool which isn't too bad all things considered.
>>
>>2384112
I don't see an issue.
Just heat up and hot tighten your nozzle.
I really don't miss the Mk8.
>>
>>2384207
Yeah the new spider hotend is actually decent if you
A) use custom firmware to unlock 500c
B) print a new fan shroud and cooling duct.
C) figure out what settings work best. I find 3mm retraction to work fine. 2mm and it strings, 4mm and it clogs.
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>>2384212
Anon. You need a heater cartridge and thermistor that are good to 500c as well.
Don't fall for creality's marketing. At most with existing hardware it's good to 300c.
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Perfect extruder tension
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>>2382929
I don't know. I don't normally print thing this tall.
>>
Does /diy/ have its own calibration print model
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>>2384207
I managed to clean it up and realised the nozzle was loose. In everything getting blocked up, it's stripped the thread on the block. I'll probably just buy a new one, fuck trying to fix it.
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>>2383493
>>2383561
could this be one or both of the stepper motors for the z axis themselves causing this?

also printed a cube just for fun with the new screws before adjusting their steps
>>
is there a good premium cad software I can pirate or is it all license service shit now?
>>
>>2384266
I'm sure you can find a slightly older version of Inventor or some shit. Fusion is fine. Free version of Inventor is fine. Do whatever
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God fucking dammit moot, fix this.
Why does it bridge along the length when it can do so along the shorter width?
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>>2384253
The one on the left is most likely inconsistent extrusion. Check your extruder e-steps, and have a look at the drive gear to make sure it's tight on the motor shaft. Some early drive gears were bored off center, if this is the case then you're shit out of luck unless you buy a new gear. Another place to look at would be the belt tensions and wheels, making sure belts are sufficiently tight (not too tight) seeing if all vwheels in the carriage are contacting the extrusion. There are four sets of v-wheels. Also have a look that your hotend is tight.
The one on the right is you e-steps for your z motors are too high. This is easy to check and change with a set of calipers.
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>>2384410
Set bridging angle manually in settings
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>>2384426
yeah, found it.
cheers.
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>>2384427
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
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>>2384415
I'll recalibrate my extruder steps again, when I swapped out for an aluminum extruder assembly it was extruding a full 100, give or a take a mm because thick marker, belts were loose but I just got tensioners for all three, fixed the bulging on the corners as well
and yeah the right one I knew wouldn't be successful since it was moving nearly 20mm for every 10mm I told it to, halved the steps and got it working with the new lead screws but still these layer aberrations
>>
>>2384156
Do we need to move /3dpg to /k so that everyone can speak freely?
>>
>>2384454
more likely just some anon that's reporting this shit and some janny acquiescing.
Moving things to /k/ would prove detrimental as this is really 98% DIY with the remaining 2% being a weapon related application, thus more likely to be off topic there than it is here. Also the focus of the post wasn't the 'firearm'(A fucking nerf gun for fuck's sake) but the 3d print.
There's also the downsides that the core of really helpful anons that lurk (all five or six of you) might not migrate although /o/,/k/,/diy/ have a lot of crossover.
DIY used to have knife making generals that really wouldn't have fit in /k/.
>>
>>2384449
I calibrate with 150mm and use the caliper edge itself to make a scratch on the filament.
I also don't extrude through the hotend, just let the filament pass though the extruder freely. easier to do with bowden than it is with direct drive, but removing the nozzle isn't that hard.
>>
>>2384465
Isn't it best to keep everything set up when you calibrate for how it will be during actual prints?
>>
>>2384468
Not really. That way if you get underextrusion after calibrating you know your hotend is the issue and not your extruder e-steps. The point of calibrating esteps is to ensure that when your gcode tells the e-motor to push out 100mm of filament it pushes out 100mm, not 105 because it slipped gears during calibration.
I'd rather take away any change of the extruder gears skipping when calibrating. That way if underextrusion is present I can either increase the tension on the extruder, increase temperature, or consider limiting speeds in slicer.
>>
Somebody Redhill me on CLIP 3D Printing. It seems dirt cheap, way faster, and produces higher quality parts. Why haven't you made the transition?
>>
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how the fuck do you make the slicer have the infill density gradually increase toward the top layer to provide a flat surface for the top ??

picrel has this small yellow dot of top layer in the middle of the air across the infill
i know already its going to be a disaster
how do i set up the slicer so that it increases the infill density gradually so that these top layer pieces (that otherwise would float in mid air) have a bed of dense infill structure underneath them (-_-)
>>
is prusa's petg any good or am I better off sticking with eryone
>>
>>2384498
all the vids i find are from 5 to 7 years ago
does the company still exist ?
>seems dirt cheap
by what means ?
cost of printer and consumables or price per part ?
>>
>>2382695
lets say i want to 3D print a model of a tank
i cant find any accurate 3D model of that tank
but i have physical access to a real life one

is there any good software for scanning something that size with a phone or some shit?
>>
it a bad sign that as soon as a print ends my bed now lowers to the lowest point it can sit at?
>>
>>2384231
anon this pic was very aesthetically pleasing
>>
can I build an enclosure out of just straight plexiglass, I've a few sheets of the shit just sitting around but I have no idea how well it keeps heat in
>>
>>2384557
did you update your slicer or something? the latest versions of prusa slicer changed creality start and end gcode for no reason and generally made it more retarded, along with the extra high z lift.

whatever happened it should be a very simple fix, just a setting or tweaking one variable in the slicer
>>
>>2384566
I swapped out the lead screw nuts for pom anti backlash ones
>>
My PiCam stopped working with Mainsail. The Pi4 says the camera is detected, but it's just a blank screen with "00 fps" in Mainsail. Tried unplugging and replugging, a different PiCam, different ribbon cable, and even flashing and setting up on a new, second SD card for the Pi, but still nothing.
Anyone know what might have happened? I'm thinking maybe I touched something and gave it a static shock when I was plugging in a fan.
>>
>>2384283
okay perfect answer, thanks
>>
>>2384509
Simplify3d can do it iirc. Apparently Cura can with these settings

Infill Density 20%
Infill Pattern Cubic
Gradual Infill Steps 2
Gradual Infill Step Height 1.5

Infill density is the max, steps is how many steps it takes to hit the max (from the top of the print), and step height is the height at which a step is taken (in mm). Try it out
>>
>>2384498
redhill? I'm getting too old for you zoomer language.

>Carbon3D
Their machines are leased at like 150k over a few years.
>>
>>2384509
prusaslicer has a setting for this as well. It's either adaptive cubic or support cubic.
>>
>>2384454
no whenever anyone made 3d printing threads on k the tripniggers and furfags would shit up the threads constantly
>>
>>2384614
*redpill

What about other companies'? Like pic related. Reviews seemed promising at first glance
>>2384529
Printer price primarily.
>>
>>2384548
The term you're looking for is "photogrammetry"

I don't know any more than that
>>
>>2384565
It's not so much about insulation as it is preventing drafts and large temp changes, at the very least around the printing area.

So the print doesn't really care if you lose a lot of heat as long as the heat bed can keep up, but obviously it costs more in electricity.
>>
>>2384653
>Like pic related
???
>>
>>2384565
No you want a relatively solid enclosure. Maybe if that plexiglass is like at least 1/2 to 3/4" thick it'd be good. Otherwise stick with wood and line it with a radiant barrier.
>>
>>2384758
I genuinely can't tell if anon wants to ask well meaning question but is too scatter brained to pose it coherently, or a very elaborate (you) bait.
>>
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Is the filament feeder a common consumable?
>>
>>2384770
its soft metal so I imagine so, I should probably replace mine or get a cheap dual gear extruder, my filament started skipping and ive cleaned the nozzle twice and have been increasing the printing temp
>>
>>2384770
Are you printing GF nylon with the tension set to mach fuck?
How on earth did you manage that?
>>
>>2384566
>>2384568
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H4C24PT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Is it possible these are just shitty screws and can't hold the weight of an E5+ bed? Even with my warped stock screws I never had any issue with the bed dropping but this is concerning now, did an autohome and it grinded trying to go lower for a second before beginning to raise since there's no z stopper at the bottom

Googling it seems like the only bet at trying to get the exact lead screws that the machine came with again is through some canadian company that looks sketch, only other screws I can find with the same starts and pitch are all like 500mm+ and I don't want to try cutting them down
>>
If I post a stl/obj can someone help me fix it? One part of the mesh never actually slices properly and I tried to combine the pieces several times in several programs with just no luck.
>>
>>2384788
I can have a look.
https://cockfile.com/
>>
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>>2384795
https://a.cockfile.com/BUkOcL.obj
Here's what I've got. Picrel is the model vs how it slices. I would really really appreciate if you can do anything with it. I've printed the other 5/6 parts of the greatsword by now.
>>
>>2384801
oh, that thing.
if i recall correctly, the holes where the pegs went into had no volume.
What diameter and depth are they supposed to be?
>>
>>2384802
in millimeters?
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even with every meshfixing option I can only get this :( I have no idea how this happened
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>>2384803
I got it to work. Hang on.
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>>2384819
>>
>>2384474
no difference after calibrating it again
baffling
>>
>>2384839
could it be I need to lower my flow rate possibly?
>>
>>2384548
It's way better to model it yourself. 3d scanning sucks ass.
>>
>>2384847
nope not that
I guess my nuclear option is lowering the wall count and dealing with having a shitty infill and seeing if that gets rid of this banding
>>
>>2384819
hey >>2384819
I miss you
>>
Now my Ender won't play and idk where this wire should go
>>
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>>2384825
Anyway, what I did was open it in prusa slicer, left click, repair using netfabb, and it was all good to go.
At least in Prusaslicer. Then sorry, got distracted with dinner and walking the dog.
Came back, downloaded the latest version of cura and tested it in cura, no dice.
I tried an automated search and repair in meshmixer and parts of the hilt outright disappear. So your issue is back there.
Frankly, my advise is to use prusaslicer for this one. I've uploaded the file, but you should probably try to see what your setup spits out reparing it yourself
https://a.cockfile.com/OjRJcM.stl
Try to tune your supports in prusaslicer before attempting a print this large.
>>2384895
You're going to need a new thermistor. It's fucked. Look for NTC3950, stock ender in so far as I'm aware all use that glass thermistor.
>>
>>2384914
I appreciate it very very much dude. thanks for the help, I will definitely repeat these steps in the future
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>>2384914
HE PUT A COCK ON IT
>>
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>>2384927
> I will definitely repeat these steps in the future
Now's your chance.
Easiest method is to open your original cock-less stl in prusa slicer, left click the model, repair through netfab, export plate as stl, and slice in cura to see if it works.
Disregard all the shit I did with meshmixer. I think the reason I wasn't able to slice with cura at all is because I configured it in a hurry and probably didn't correctly define my extryuders/nozzles, so it was going to spit an error no matter what.
>>
>>2384890
Nuclear option last anon. A few things come to mind, one of them I'm not too sure how to fix as I've never owned a single z motor machine.
hardware:
You'd have to look up how to properly level your gantry.
The other is changing out your nozzle if it's been scraping on the glass.
If you touch your hotend, while cold, placing your finger on your nozzle, can you feel it loose? if so, look into tightening/loosening vwheels.
slicer:
What slicer are you using? Do you have a flow multiplier/flow rate that you can set back down to default setting of 100%?
Have you messed with extrusion width at all? Have you done a proper PID tune of your hotend?
>>
>>2384934
Great, this works. Thank you again so much. I will hopefully post my finished greatsword in a few days.
>>
>>2384976
Yeah I really don't want to have to go down to hollow on my prints again, I know that a certain balance of walls to infill has a higher strength than just 100% infill using wall count but I prefer the heft combined with better impact resistance

nozzle has kept a good distance from the PEI sheeting since swapping
hotend is secure, have had it loose and had layer shift before and this isn't quite that, and nozzle's seated firm
using cura currently, had it at 105% and then took it back down to 100 for the most recent print and no difference
have PID tuned the hot end but not experimented with extrusion width, just at the default .4mm for the nozzle
currently printing these braces for the tops of both lead screws, gonna shove em together in the morning and see if somehow I just got already warped screws, they were pretty cheap

I've no clue about the gantry stuff so I'll look into that if these braces and then extrusion width don't work
>>
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>>2384977
Why am I getting this error? What am i doing wrong?
haven't used cura in a decade.
it fits in the volume, it's a proper manifold, I don't see how to assign an extruder to it.
>>
>>2384985
It's too big, the little grey area on the border won't let you print in it unless you modify raft/skirt settings iirc
>>
>>2384988
>they've included profiles for almost every major filament manufacturer, most of which have meaningless difference in so far as the material remains the same.
>something like temperature, fan percentages, brim, perimeter count, and layer height is hidden under two different dropdown menus.
ok. that's enough cura for me. All I want is for moot to add tree supports to prusaslicer and I'll be the happiest man alive.
>>
Does anyone have a model for a black sun fidget spinner
>>
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>>2382695
Another episode of the Ender 3 having absolutely no trouble knocking out things not ment to be printed, after failing on making a simple tray.
This boat part was just a exercise in reverse engineering, I had other designs in mind but after losing a rudder I just decided to print one and got a usable part on first go, even if a 0.6 nozzle is a little big.
>>
>>2384998
No, but you could probably work something with this. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4968184
>>2385006
Jesus anon. Layer height should almost always remain under 75% your nozzle size, otherwise it is very likely you'll get really bad layer bonding.
>>
>>2385008
This was 0.4mm layer height on a 0.6mm nozzle. Even with a brim it was only 50 min to print.
Layers do seem a little spaced out tho
>>
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>>2385013
How tall is that part? Pic related is an inch tall, 0.4mm layers on a 0.6mm cr10, which basically a large ender 3.
>>
>exported STL from Autodesk inventor are very low poly count
New to printing. Should I use a different software
>>
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>>2385018
About 3.2 inches
Heres another angle
>>
>>2385023
In scale that looks much much better.
For thin walls, chemical smoothing has genuine inprovements in strength. ABS is easiest, but DCM isn't hard to come by either.
>>
how much troubleshooting can you realistically expect to begin printing out of the box with a prusa
>>
>>2385036
Prusafags will tell you zero, that's why you shelled out the dosh for the PREMIUM EXPERIENCE. You tell me how that goes.
>>
>>2384636
Fuck Seig.
I've got a barrel jacket on the Ender right now. Just finished a receiver variant I designed earlier today. Just need to cut some pins and drill out the holes for them, then do the folding brace.
>>
>>2385036
About the same or somewhat less than on an Ender 3 but the bigger ones are much harder to do on the Prusa.
>>
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>>2384927
>>
>>2385041
when I built my ender 3 I didn't know shit and yet my first print worked perfectly in spite of me not even having the slightest fucking clue and not putting any supports on a part that absolutely needed them. It was like fucking magic
>>
>>2384914
>NTC3950
Thank you.
>>
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i tried putting some metal pieces into my 3d print but for some reason it printed over them really shitty like this, any idea why?
the metal is like 0.3mm below the edge so it's not like it's touching the nozzle
>>
>>2384758
>>2384766
I'm retarded. This is pic related
>>
>>2385260
Metal is cold and overcools the material. You need to design your part where you can put the metal parts in after printing
>>
Hello printer folks. 3D printer noob here, looking to buy a printer for the first time. I want to buy the cheapest printer that "ticks all the boxes". After a day or two of researching the topic i settled on Creality CR 10 Smart Pro. It has to be at least 250x250, but 300x300 is even better. It cant be smaller because there are specific 245x245 parts i want to print. There are cheaper ones that do this, but this one has a direct drive extruder. Since it seems i will primarily be using PETG, this should give me less of a hassle with stringing. I might later also print some flexible stuff. It also has a 300c nozzle, so if i were to end up wanting to move into advanced materials, all i would have to do is enclose it.

Is this the right decision? Seems all other models fail in the 250x250 department, or a lack of a DD extruder. The only downside i see is the fact that the brand doesnt have the best reputation. But anything better is instantly 2x the money. I cant justify that at this point since i really have to see the what this stuff can do for me first.

Creality CR 10 Smart Pro y/n?
>>
>>2385280
no
>>2385260
your bridging performance can't be any good normally, there is barely any overlap whatsoever joining the bridge to the rest of the part. The fact that none of the extrsuions actually made it to the other side and touched plastic is very telling. At the very least they would have been melted over a tiny bit had the hotend actually moved there.
>>
what's the difference between Extruder/hot-end/ and nozzle?
I see a lot of people seeming to use it interchangeably and I've been confused by it
>>
>>2385288
i wonder if the problem is that after i pause the print and add the metal, i rehome x and y axes before resuming printing. maybe the homing accuracy is shit (inductive sensors) and it causes layer shift and thus it tried printing in the wrong place
>>
>>2385303
it shouldn't rehome. just move off to a side and hold torque.
>>
>>2385319
well i was worried that by touching the print and shit i was gone make the steppers skip steps since it's not THAT hard to move them when under power
next time i'll try without rehoming
also is there any gcode to prevent steppers from turning off after a while when paused? (i use m600 for the pause)
>>
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>>2385322
haven't a clue, i've only ever done the inset thing when the prints are less than thirty mins.
anything longer than that and I'll look a different way, like what i'm doing right now where I want a weighted base fo a thing I'm making. Cut a quick slot at the bottom where I'm going to glue in wheel weights.
>>
>>2385300
they should not be used interchangably. Extruder pushes the plastic to the hotend and the plastic goes out the nozzle. They are not interchangeable.
>>
>>2385332
thanks bro
>>
>>2385332
so extruder is the servo with the toothed wheel that is riding on the filament?
>>
>>2385285
Meh Creality is fine. You can definitely print petg with a bowden. I do it all the time. It just takes a little more care. That said, I always want to do more than what my printer will allow. To get there you can rice out your budget equipment or just buy it all up front. Depends on your personality. More features means you can buy the filament and get after it when you're ready. Otherwise you've got a chore to do before you can even start troubleshooting. Even then you have the problem that your printer was designed for a Bowden and you're throwing more weight on gantry for a DD which can lead to more problems.
>>
>>2385338
Sort of.
You can consider the extruder to be the assembly including the extruder motor and filament drive gears.
The hotend is the part with the nozzle, heater&thermistor, and heatsink.
On a printer with a bowden extruder, the extruder will be off to one side and only the hotend will be on the printerhead (along with heatsink cooling fan, part cooling fan, bed sensor, etc.)
On a direct drive you have the extruder a very short distance from the hotend on the printer head.
https://all3dp.com/2/direct-vs-bowden-extruder-technology-shootout/
>>
>>2385344
Bowden chad shits on direct drive virgin because he can fly around at max speeds and instantly change directions due to low mass as if newton's laws don't even exist
>>
>>2385349
DD is better because you can overcome the downside by simply having a more rigid structure. on modern cnc mills, you have a milling head that weighs a literal ton, yet still flies around like crazy. so a few hundred grams is not the issue. insisting to make the printer out of wimpy off the self alu extrusions is the issue.
>>
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>slicer says 100m of filament.
>markings on spool say 100m left.
>tfw parts completed without triggering the runout sensor by maybe 10mm.
>>2385349
The days of bowden are long gone along with plywood/acrylic frames anon.
>>
>>2385339
yeah im not interested in having a bunch of leftover parts. just wanna buy once cry once.
>>
>>2385384
CR6SE is a better printer.
>>
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so I just fired up my ender 3 after replacing the thermistor, but for some reason the temperature seems to oscillate around the target by +-2 degrees C. it didn't do this with the original thermistor.
is this a non-issue or should I be concerned? I'm pretty sure I got the new thermistor seated all the way. perhaps my heater cartridge was damaged when I got thermal runaway? I wouldn't think so because I turned off the printer almost immediately after runaway was detected.
>>
>>2385391
PID tune.
>>
>>2385362
yes increase the cost of your printer by $300 just so it can do what bowden already does
>>
>>2385402
>TPU
kekekeke
>>
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>>2385402
>by $300
You massively underestimate how widely available to makers aluminium extrusions are these days.
Openbuilds and misumi are no longer the only two outlets.
I priced out the extrusion to convert my migbot i3 to an aluminium fram and it came out to around $90 with precut lengths and necessary hardware.
>>
>>2385407
With a simple extruder mod or a good quality extruder even soft TPU is doable on bowden.
>>
if PETG is hydroscopic does that mean it's a bad idea to wet sand PETG prints
>>
>>2385416 after you print it it doesn't matter
>>
>>2385416
Doesn't matter after it is printed.
During printing moisture matters because it causes pockets of steam.
>>
>>2385303
after thinking more you could probably fix this completely just by printing bridges slower
>>
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>>2384981
banding seems much better after installing the braces for the tops of the screws, still not perfect but there's only three real noticeable lines near the top of the cube as opposed to all through it, there are those aberrations at the corners but they're not as extreme and your nail doesn't catch on every erroneous layer if you run it down the surface now
need to relevel the bed though, first layer didn't stick quite good enough
>>
>>2385387
235x235 leaves me short. Why tho?
>>
>>2383874
ABS isn't that difficult but only PLA prints well on a glass bed (what the v2 comes with).
with ABS you need an enclosure. you should also be aware that ABS offgases poisonous gases while printing whereas PLA/PETG are considered safe under current medical/material knowledge.
>>
if i print a square peg that is 3x3cm, what size do i have to print a square hole so the peg can be inserted into it and has a nice tright grip from friction but it is possible to remove it? should i make the hole like 3.3x3.3cm? the nozzle size is 0.4mm
>>
>>2385489
nta but even if you have the build volume to print something bigger in one piece it's always a good idea especially when you're new to printing to cut prints up, less waste in the times that a print fails at the 90% mark
>>
>>2385498
oh im gonna spend at least a week doing all kinds of test prints before i print any serious project.
>>
>>2385492
It "depends."
Set slicing tolerance to exclusive and there's a higher than 0% chance that a 3x3 model would fit into a 3x3 hole just fine.
Otherwise, it can also just depend on your printer. You might need a tolerance of only +0.1mm per side, or you might need a tolerance of +0.2mm per side or even +0.3mm per side - you'll probably have to just make test models and testfit before actually doing anything with a long print time.
>>
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>wall goes down nice
>everything else is rough course irritating and gets everywhere
Why?
>>
>>2385599
have you fiddled with your infil/inner wall/top&bottom layer settings at all
>>
>>2385605
Not particularly no. I'm using super slicer if that helps
>>
Nub question here I was searching on the Interwebs at some tabletop figures and saw they sell STL files for 3d printers. How do these work do you get a limited amount of prints from these files or can you print them till ones hearts content
>>
>>2385617
You don't download them. Someone will show up at your house with a microSD card that has the file. He hangs out until the print is done then leaves with the microSD
>>
>>2385599
Looks fine to me.Slightly over extruded, but it's a first layer.
>>
>>2385599
You need to make your bottom lines thinner. It will also reduce your elephant foot.
>>
I'M GONNA DO IT LADS, I'M GONNA BUY A MEGA S
>>
>>2385864
CHICKS DIG GIANT ROBOTS!
>>
>>2382695
Bros why the fuck do I get lines going through my 3D. I'm told its Z-seams, but the problem is its on every side of my work. How do you fix?
>>
Got an Ender 5 Pro recently and can't get it to home properly. I think either the software is wrong or the motor was installed incorrectly so it operates in the reverse. What would be the best way to fix this?
Just flip the motor?
>>
>>2385889
Z seam alignment: user specified
>>
>>2385927
>Z seam alignment: user specified
what?

I'm using cura
>>
>>2385617
They work kind of like old music sharing sites, in that you join a telegram channel where multi-gig collections get posted frequently.
>>
>>2385936
Yeah with Cura you should be able to select where the z seam will go. Cura will do whatever it wants by default which can lead to weird seams. Look for the z seam alignment setting and put it wherever you want. You can do it by coordinates or you can select "back", "front", etc and Cura will put the z seam there relative to the part's center. If that doesn't fix it post a pic.
>>
I found some nylon trimmer line impregnated with aluminium particles in a hardware store, wanna try it to see if it gets some special properties. It shouldn't wreck my brass nozzle, right? Aluminium should be softer than brass.
>>
>>2385889
Also there is "zebras" which is caused by the stepper motor drive, the default drivers are low frequency which is audible. Replace the motherboard with silent drive and they go away.
>>
>>2385961
I thought ender 3 v2 creality fixes this?
>>
>>2385889
Share pics you tard
>>
>>2385273
These resin printers have "layers" and use a conventional SLA process, where they cure resin at the bottom(top) layer and lift, peeling the print away before setting it back down for the next layer. This is because the resin sticks to the light source surface, the FEP sheet, and has to be pulled off it for every layer. CLIP is special and patented because it uses some oxygen barrier for 0 suction forces on the surface, meaning there's no need to peel. It can lift continuously, cutting print times to a fraction of normal SLA methods. The photon mono 4k iirc has the latest motherboard, so you can use some settings to make them reasonably fast, like TSMC (Twin Stage Motor Control). It basically lets you control the lift and descent after the initial peel to make the process faster, but still nowhere near as fast as CLIP. What CLIP does in a few minutes might take an hour or more on an optimized normal resin printer
>>
>ratrig v core3 500mm coming on wednesday
The fucking benchy on this thing is going to be W I D E
>>
>>2385362
Modern CNC mills are driven by ballscrews as thick as your forearm. i3s are driven by shitty rubber belts.
>>
>>2386016
But there are no cutting forces on the toolhead.
>>
i've been printing for 5 years
all of my 6 printers are benchy virgins to this day
i'll never print that damned boat, out of principle
>>
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>>2386019
Based. Redd*tboats are a waste of filament.
>>
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>>2382695
What's a very elastic filament? I need it to not only be squishy but stretchy as well.
>>
>>2386042
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Filament/s?k=Flexible+Filament
you're gonna want to do a lot of research before trying flexible filaments, going in unprepared can fuck your printer up
>>
>>2386042
If you're going to print dragon dildos your best solution really is pouring two part resin into a printed mold rather than printing it.
>>
>>2386047
Thanks anon, just what I was planning to do actually
>>
>>2386047
It's not for me, my gf wants me to print cosplay outfits for her and some of them have to be elastic so that they "cling" to her.

>>2386045
I've printed flexible stuff before, I've upgraded my printer with a micro swiss but I need to know what brands are stretchy and not just squishy.

>>2386049
Honestly really cringe that you're pretending to be me on the internet. Get a life.
>>
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>>2386049
I don't get the point of being coy on fucking 4chan of all places.
>>2386050
>It's not for me, my gf wants
Uh huh.
>>
>>2386056
Do women really
>>
>>2386059
>women.
>that long pale white emaciated aids forearm
Unless it's Ann Coulter browsing /3dpg/, that's a dude.
>>
>>2386050
I don't think you actually can print something squishy enough to cling to the body. I've seen filaments that are almost impossible to feed because of how stretchy they are on the spool, and their stiffness when printed is still less onahole and more dildo.
>>
>>2386050
>It's not for me, my gf wants me to print cosplay outfits for her and some of them have to be elastic so that they "cling" to her
probably wont be able to print anything with that level of accuracy then, better off trying to heatform other elastic materials for that
>>
when printing multiple objects in simplify 3d how do i add raft to only one of them?
>>
>>2385998
If you are lucky and get one with the silent drive board installed
>>
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>>2386081
why?
>>
>>2386018
That's not the point he's making. The point is that Bowden is fine for a printer where cost is a primary concern. If you have a heavier tool you should ideally get linear bearings and rails with a bigger motor. Throwing something heavy on a light duty system can cause problems.
>>
>>2386081
Blender
>>
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Full disclosure I'm kinda retarded and haven't been 3d printing or modeling for long.
I want to get into dice making, how do I recreate this mold? I love the design and it combines several different types of molds, but fuck paying $100+ for a mold every few months, especially if these bastards go out of business. It's called a Royal Dice Mold if you want to check out their videos, but don't buy their shit.
The mold is two halves that lock together to make a complete mold so taking the finished dice out is easier. There's a reservoir on top for air to come out and suck in excess resin. For some dice like a d8 or d10 it makes sense because you can just cut in half and have each half be in each part of the mold. But something like a d6 or d20 you cant exactly cut it in half cleanly because you'd be chopping through the numbers. It looks like they have the d6 at an angle and each half of the mold only has 3 sides.
I was thinking of 3D printing "plates" so to speak. Kinda like how coins are made. I'd make two plates for each side that are designed to lock together, then use them to make a silicone mold. Would this work or am I just being retarded? Or am I even in barking up the right thread?
>>
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ahh... you were by my side all along
>>
>>2386059
I don't see why they couldn't, although I can think of plenty of reasons why they shouldn't.
>>
>>2386126
Nice black clover sword
>>
>>2386124
Shape seems doable. You'd need to get into smoothing though, so resin might be the best option.
>>
>>2386149
Don't worry I plan on using resin, just have to model it and make sure everything's accurate enough so that after I print it then make a silicone mold out of it things will still snap together properly and not spill shit everywhere.
>>
>>2386126
I hope your endgame is printing a transparent blade and sticking LEDs in it
>>
>>2386169
I'm going to resin cast it with an led strip on the support rod and some glitter/glowpowder in the resin
>>
>>2386126
That is genuinely impressive.
on the part with the hilt, did the supports come off cleanly leaving behind the blade detail? If not this might be the perfect opportunity to learn to use threaded inserts.
>>
Whats a small and simple print i can test (without special tools) the strength of a material?
I sort of dont want to print dog bones, i have no was of testing them.
>>
>>2386201
breaking off spikes on a temperature tower. it'll give you info on layer strength and quality.
>>
>>2386229
Sounds good.
Ill probably try to break it off on a scale. Hopefully i can get a reading like that.
>>
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>>2386056
could a similar method perhaps be employed to cast an artificial vaginal canal? I presume that the silicon rubber used to create such a device would need to be softer and more elastic as it is in industrially produced variants. Is it possible to obtain such a rubber and cast it at home?
>>
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>>2382695
The Blue Blur is back
>>
>>2386319
Yes but whatever you buy in the store would be better.
>>
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Rip hotend
Good thing I had a spare

New one heats much faster, despite using the same heater block. The grub screw wasn't tight at all from the factory on the one I replaced
>>
>>2386394
good thing you didn't die and at least they're cheap
I wonder how much better it is to add thermal paste
>>
>>2386081
export plate as stl when you've got just the one part rafted.
>>
>>2386405
You'd wouldn't get more power but better regulation possibly which means more consistent surface finish as the printer isn't consistently under and overshooting the temperature.
>>
>>2386394
i should probably order one too, mine is working fine but it's two years old and i don't have any spares and if it days it's a month with no printing until chinks deliver
>>
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Bros how do I fix this?

Everything gets made perfectly but the z is barely filled in the calibration cube
>>
>>2386500
buy průša poorfag
>>
>>2386124
step 1 get the dice you want
step 2 lube em up
step 3 hotglue or skewer them to a piece of wire the diameter of your pour hole
step 4, mount that wire to the side of a box made of disposable material, like foamcore.
step 5, half fill the box with soft silicone until it hits your halfway point on the dice.
step 6, once the silicon is set, dig a few holes out of the sides to help you align the 2 halves later, and dig out the sides of your d6, d4 and whatever else you need to do to make it flush so the second layer can fill full sides.
step 7 lube the silicone and dice up again
step 8 pour the second layer of silicone on top of the dice.
step 9 once its set, remove the top layer, try to keep the dice in it
step 10, clean it up the same way you cleaned the first side, gouging out dice sides you want to be in the other half of the mold.
step 11 lube it up again
step 12 silicone over the second layer to make a NEW first layer with the final shape.
step 13 remove dice
step 14 place the second and third molds together and fill the gap that used to have the wire supports in with whatever resin/epoxy/molten material you want to make the dice out of
step 15 receive shit quality dice because you really need a lot more tooling and work to make proper dice molds.
>>
>>2386505
I want to mass manufacture using enders 3 tho
>>
>>2386500
Change bridging angle
>>
>>2386522
What the fuck is bridging angle? What setting would this be in Cura called?
>>
>>2386544
Read the manual
>>
>>2386558
I did. There was no mention of bridging angles. Nor does Google mention it anywhere.
>>
>>2383628
heh, i remember those.
they had a terrible z-axis problem due to the positioning of the motors on top of the drive screws, instad of underneath.
this caused a lot of headaches.
i would salvage the motors and heated bed, and throw the rest away; it's garbage.
>>
so i started smelling some stinky smell from my 3d printing and i was like what the nigger is going on here, pla don't smell like that.
So i sniffed all around the printer and found out the smell is coming out from the inside of it.
But it's printing just fine, so what could it be?
>>
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>>2386586
uh oh
stinky
>>
>>2386586
Something overheated inside, your next post will be that it's not fine.

What printer? Ender 3?
>>
just tried another print and yep, the smell is blowing out from it again through the fan.. fuck i'll have to open it and check, fuck man so many fucking screws
FUCKING CHINKS
>>
>>2386665
this is so fucking gay i literally need to print almost nonstop the next 5 days. i can't afford a broken fucking chinkshit printer
>>
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>>2386674
I don't think you'd manage that even on a stratasys.
Not because of the machinery, but because of you.
>>
>>2386711
fuck you bitch, you ain't been born on the streets with nothing, your upper middle class spoiled brat who was born with a prusa up their ass and has no idea the struggles chinkshit uses have to go through EVERY FUCKING DAY
>>
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Alright, ripped the thing apart and i managed to sniff out the crispy smelly boy
Anyone want to wager a guess which one of these chinkshit parts smells like electric fire every time i turn the printer on?
>>
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>>2386720
... I'm a literal third worlder with a five year old cr10.
If you have to print that long consider spliting your shit to assemble it later via screws/dovetails/glue and using a 0.6mm nozzle or larger. Larger things typically require less detail.
>>
>>2386696
>2D-3D print
>monotonic infill turned off
gross
>>
>>2386774
also stringing
>>
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printed a steam deck stand. came out good i think. i’m usually not a purple fag but i really like the way this ziro filament came out
>>
i am in the market for a new slicer, so what is the bestest slicer ever in the whole wide world?
Currently i am using an old ass simplify 3d slicer i pirated like 2 years ago and it works actually really great but i was wondering if anything better emerged since.
>>
>>2386126
I hope you have a pipe or something running through the middle of that thing
>>
I have a roll of PETG that I've never used.
It's been sitting in a drybox with shitloads of desiccant for nearly two months, so at the very least it should be dry by now.
I recall nothing about this filament, is it supposed to be stiffer than PLA? If so, do I bring my ext. mult down 2% from ABS values?
What about cooling and enclosure? Do I open up the enclosure or do I print it open air?
I made sure the bed is properly coated with hairspray as I do not trust PETG to not destroy my pei sheet.
>>
>>2386859
You can't go wrong with Cura
Tree supports are boss
>>
>>2386910
>2022
>still designing parts that need supports.
>>
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>>2386914
>designing around the printers limitations
>>
>>2386375
Of course. However, one can experiment with more peculiar tastes when one is both the designer and user.
>>
>>2386914
>bro just print everything with no angles greater than 40 degrees bro
>>
>>2386924
a person who can design a part that fulfills the same purpose but does not require supports is simply a better designer
>>
>>2386901
Just put your settings in and do it. You're overthinking it. It's like PLA but hotter and stringier.
>>
>>2386901
it's slightly more flexible than PLA
you'll never find a straight answer for when/how your fans should be with petg prints
I use an enclosure because otherwise even on rafts my petg would curl off the bed at the corners or elephant's foot out
>>
>>2387009
>>2387008
Cheers. Used a slowed down ABS profile and open air. First print came off (raised the first layer out of fear), but the second one worked just fine.
>>
I'm having problems with my 3d printer.

>PRUSA mks3+
>hatchbox black filament
>slicer settings are fine, I've printed the same part before

I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've calibrated the first layer, recalibrated the z-layer, did the autobalance thing, changed the extruder, adjusted the senor, raised the bed temperature...

https://emalm.com/?v=Kt5tf
>>
>>2387072
Clean bed with scotch brite pad and dish soap. The pad will scuff up the surface a bit and dramatically improve adhesion.
>>
>>2387072
babystep your first layer.
>>
>>2387076
Cool, I'll try that.

>>2387088
I'm very stupid. How?
>>
>>2387088
>>2387106

Oh, that's what that means. Yeah, the test patterns comes out fine. And the thing is pretty much almost at the plate, it's just not adhering at all. I'll try fucking it up a bit.
>>
Have you ever gotten mires from women when they hear about your 3d printer?
>>
>>2387117
Once this qt asked me to teach her 3d printing, but otherwise, no.
>>
My opinion remains unchanged on PETG.
fuck this filament, it just wants to stick to the nozzle leaving warts all over the place.
>>2387114
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9I4S7rIR7Xc
>>
>>2386500
Bros any ideas guys?
>>
>>2387131
how many top layers do you currently have?
post gcode to litterbox.
>>
>>2387135
>how many top layers do you currently have?
I have no idea

>post gcode to litterbox.
The custom start G-Code I just post here? Not sure what you mean by litterbox
>>
>>2387142
https://cockfile.com/
The literal file that you send to your printer and hit print.
>>
>>2387128
all the pain and suffering that comes with learning to print PETG is worth it when you can sand it as hard as you want without worrying about it disintegrating because the temperature went above mildly tepid
>>
>>2387145
Meh. I just use ABS for most things.
Also, how much sanding do your prints require that they can melt PLA while being finished?
>>
>>2387144
https://a.cockfile.com/ZapEeo.gcode

The dimensions and other letters are printed fine, I've measured them. But when it prints the Z its not that perfect
>>
>>2387147
I would ABS if I had the ability to properly ventilate, but shitty apartment
and for cosplay pieces I need to go hard on them because most filler primers will obscure too many finer details if I try to compensate
>>
>>2387128
>>2387114
>level one news from almost a month ago.
Why on earth was that on my clipboard.
I meant to paste this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0WKA4gXG-I
you can live adjust your z offset during your first layer.
>>2387149
You mong. your part is completely hollow, there it tries to print the z in midair, vid related.
https://litter.catbox.moe/4rk32r.mp4
Increase your infill to about 10%. Then the slicer will properly correct for this.
>>
>>2386731
You get Arizona iced tea in the third world? Must b nice
>>
What's a good color filament if I want to monitor for minute errors in prints while they're in progress
I swapped from a red to a silvery grey but then swapped to an orange thinking it'd show well and it shows even worse
>>
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made an art installation out of all the failed cubes along the way
>>
>>2387178
pretty sure grey is the way to go, there is a reason why primer is grey
>>
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Busted out the resin printer since I found a bunch of good Chrono Trigger models. They aren't perfect prints, and I'm not great at finishing, but man I really love these models.
>>
>>2387196
resing printers are pretty cool, too bad resin is such nasty shit. i would get one but don't want to deal with the resin. filament is great because i can just let the printer sit for a month then send a file to it and it prints just like a paper printer
>>
>>2387215
FWIW I've got my SLA printer just chilling in the garage with a vat full of resin. Every couple of months or so, I print something as-is; haven't had problems yet

Dealing with the IPA and mess is a bit of a pain, though, you're right
>>
>>2387215
same, but personally I'd deal with it... if I had space. I've literally got my FDM printer on a freaking dresser, taking up functionally no space (although filament spools are taking up a fair bit at this point). It would be incredibly difficult to cram a resin printer, a curing station, and room for all the various shit that they would require into my small living space.... Plus then I'd want to get into painting, and that requires a garage.
>>
>>2387162
Thats what I needed.

Fucking KEKW Conan
>>
>>2387216
so you can just fill the printer with resin and leave it there for a year? won't the resin go bad or some shit?
and after it prints you just pull it out and wash it under a tap? i haven't really looked into the resin process
>>
>>2387217
i have same issue with space, i have a studio apartment not much bigger than a jail cell and apart from normal shit for living i have crammed here a printer, wood router, microscope + standard set of lab tools for my electronics engineering hobby, and jesus fucking christ is this place crammed. can hardly move without hitting something
>>
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>>2387219
It kind of depends on the resin. Some of them will separate (like the opaque ones or anything that's not an "ordinary" resin), but since I print almost exclusively clear, that hasn't been a problem with me. Even if I use one of the opaque ones, dipping the print surface in the vat a few times (e.g. home -> z+10 -> home -> z+10 -> z+10 , etc.) stirs it up enough to print okay unless it's been sitting for a REALLY long time.

>after it prints
I stick it in pic related, which swirls it around a vat of isopropyl alcohol, and then cure it in the UV light. I used to do it all by hand but then I tried the Form 3's Wash and Cure stations and got myself the Anycubic verison of it (2-in-1). haven't regretted it; no smell whatsoever when I'm not using it because the alcohol tank has a rubber seal around it keeping it all in there. There are water-washable resins, though, but I've never used them.
>>
>>2387222
oh right you need to uv it.
so let's say i have clear resin so i can just print stuff and not touch it for maintenance. so then you need the uv curing station, you can just fill it in alcohol and then also not have to touch it for a long time?
so the printing process can be literally just
print -> throw into UV smoothie maker -> pull out -> done
with no extra shit in between?
>>
>>2387215
It's not too bad. As long as you set aside an area and put down a silicone drip mat it's easy to manage. Just load up on IPA and gloves, get a UV lamp and one of those pickle tupperware things and shit's easy. The resin can sit in the vat for quite a while as long as the printer isn't in sunlight.

>>2387219
Yeah resin can pretty much sit as long as it doesn't get UV radiation, you just gotta stir it. As for cleaning, most resins will require cleanoff with IPA or some other agent, and you'll want gloves. Some resins are water-washable. There's a bunch of good videos on the process; the one by Makers Muse is pretty detailed. You can use the cleaning agent for a good while before it gets saturated with liquid resin, and even then if you hit it with the UV light to precipitate out hardened resin bits you can extend its lifetime a little longer.

Resin sounds like a huge pain in the ass, and admittedly it can be messy if you don't have a good space for it, but it's also pretty consistent and makes some incredibly detailed prints once you know what to do.
>>
>>2387223
>you need to uv it
Frankly I've had "good enough" results with just sticking the print in a tub of water and putting it in indirect sunlight. The water stops oxygen getting to it (I think?) and also diffuses the light for a more even cure, but the tradeoff is that it's not as powerful as a UV light, so it takes about a day to cure properly. On the flip side, it tends to be less brittle/yellow if you "slow" cure it like that.

>you can just fill it in alcohol and then also not have to touch it for a long time
Yeah, it's even lower maintenance than the printer itself. Depending on how big/how often you print, you might not need to change the IPA for a long time. I mostly print really small functional parts (little inserts for electronics etc.) and my current tank of IPA has been just sitting there for about a year.

>print -> throw into UV smoothie maker -> pull out -> done
Kinda. If you have supports, you have to clip them off; sentiment is mixed on if you do it after washing or after curing, but I usually do it after washing so I don't leave craters from snipping off brittle material. You also have to take out the part from the alcohol bath and let it dry before curing, but that's the easy part.
>>
>>2387224
i have been pretty tempted to get a resin printer since chinks sell them so cheap now, but i just don't want to deal with the resin nastyness, however if there now exists a simple pipeline of just basically printing it, then having a tub that washes it in alcohol and cures it at the same time and boom done then that is not nearly as bad as i thought. I was under an assumption you have to fill the printer with resin for each new print
>>
>>2387227
>wash and cure at the same time
Not really possible because you'd get random half-cured bits of crap sticking to the print. Ideally you take it out of the vat and give it a very quick rinse with completely fresh IPA to wash off any remaining particles

>you have to fill the printer with resin for each new print
Nope, only if you're changing colors or are running low. Vats are replaceable so you can have a bunch of them with one colour/material for each if you so choose.
>>
>>2387226
alright thanks, i have some thinking to do if i want to pull the trigger.
i looked up some resins and they are pretty expensive, i don't assume the resin expans during printing. so let's say i have 1kg of clear resin and print a solid cube with it, how big will the cube be?
>>
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so fucking cheap
is there a catch? are they trash?
when i bought my 3d printer from chinks 2 years ago it was super cheap as well, like 5 times cheaper than prusa and it has worked absolutely flawlessly till today
>>
>>2387230
i assume i would most definitely want a 4k one
>>
>>2387230
I'm willing to trust Creality but definitely do a little googling. I wanted to get the Anycubic Photon Ultra back when it was kickstarted but missed the cheap tier so I didn't. I haven't kept up with whether the new ones are similarly precise.
>>
>>2387231
fuck man, i gotta watch some youtube videos on resin printing.
shieeeeeeeeeeet when i woke up today i was NOT planning on the high possibility of ordering a resin printer on a whim
But It's true that for a long time now i wanted to make pretty electronics enclosures and lewd figurines

>>2387232
if i am not mistaken the printer works in a way where it uses pixels on a screen to cure the resion so in theory the printer is nothing more than an LCD display and a one motor that lifts the print up right? so hard to fuck that up construction wise
>>
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okay last question frens, i will do more research later today, but technically this is all i need to start printing right?
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>>2387229
>some resins are pretty expensive
Most of them are usually cheap. When I first started printing 3.5 years ago, resin was around $50/L for run-of-the-mill ones. Last time I bought some (l think, like, 9 months ago?) it was closer to $30/L.

>how big would a solid cube be
About 4 inches on a side, but printing things solid is usually a waste of resin. Check pic related
>inb4 figurines
they're what people usually show off "look how much I can print", but it's a pretty good indicator anyway. A liter of resin goes a long way.

>>2387230
It's a single stepper, a UV LED array, and a glorified phone screen. They're simple machines.

>>2387238
Pretty much, yeah.
>plant-based eco resin
Honestly I try to stay away from the gimmicky things because there's usually downsides. This is my go-to: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G353WMB/
Takes paint well, cures well, reasonably strong, pretty cheap.
>>
>>2387238
>>2387243
Oh, and don't forget the isopropyl alcohol unless you're planning on using water-washable. Read up on that stuff if so, I've never used it so have no idea if it has any shortcomings or fancy procedures. You're also going to want a box of thin gloves.
>>
>>2387243
>>2387244
okay, thanks fren, okay last LAST question, i watched some printer reviews and they mention dangerous fumes and bad smells, is that something i need to worry about? i plan on solely using the clear resin because i wasn't the least amount of maintenance possible
>>
>>2387250
>okay last LAST question
This is what a discussion board is for - discussion. Keep asking questions and people will keep answering

Don't huff the fumes, don't keep the printer in your bedroom, and ventilate the room when you're pouring/rinsing/anything with liquid resin. Cured resin is okay to mess with as long as you don't eat the dust. What I did was I kept the box and bag the printer came in and covered it with those upside-down when I wasn't using it; it kept the resin in the dark and also insulated against any extra fumes
>>
>>2387250
Other anon here. Probably get a fan. The fumes are probably terrible for you, so it's best to have good ventilation. The smell varies between resins but they're generally not pleasant. If you can set up a fume hood that's probably best, but I usually just run mine in a closed room with the window open and a fan pointed outdoors and it doesn't bother me. As for which resin to use, I have only used Phrozen's gray 4k resin and it has been fine with generally low odor. My buddy used some clear resin and he hated the fumes, but I think he also had less ventilation.
>>
>>2387253
>don't keep the printer in your bedroom,
well shit, i was gonna keep it under the table because my apartment is literally a single small room and this is the only free space i have available. well i don't really plant on printing a huge amount, like say 3 small prints per month, but then the trouble is, will the resin sitting in the printer keep slowly evaporating giving me stealthy cancer over the years?
>>
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>>2387258
>i was gonna keep it under the table
Maybe you could find a hermetically-sealed fuckhueg tupperware box or something, I'm sure they exist for some reason. Or get a really fucking big ziplock bag, like the kind they keep blocks of clay in.

>will the resin sitting in the printer keep slowly evaporating giving me stealthy cancer over the years?
Verdict is still out. People say that goddamn barbecued burgers and hot dogs cause cancer, so it's hard to take sources seriously sometimes, particularly considering these studies sometimes completely ignore e.g. daily exposure to carcinogens through car exhaust fumes and public transportation
>>
>>2387258
not that anon, but i've had mine sitting one room away from me for like, 5 months now, i can only smell it when its printing.
i did the same thing he did with the upside down box, but i tore a hole in the top, and jammed a 100mm ducting tube in it, with an intel CPU fan pulling the air outside, smells now 100% gone, and i just run the fan when im printing.
the smell is pretty bad, and it can cause some lung irritation if you're around it too much, long term is hard to tell, it may be like microplastics, harmfull, but slow, or like lead paint, SUPER harmfull and pretty fast acting, we just dont know yet.
there are some water washable resins that are meant to be non-toxic (which is why you can just wash them down the drain instead of bio-hazard handling all your used paper towels and gloves) but they print WAY worse than the good ol' toxic variety.
also, 1L of resin does get you a suprising amount, assuming you hollow like on an FDM printer, you'll get around the same amount of print as a 1kg spool.
>>
Does the difference in resolution between the Mars and the Saturn have an actual effect on print quality? Im not gonna be printing figurines, only fittings and small parts.
>>
>>2387266
>the smell is pretty bad
do all colors smell? i read that some smell very little, but i guess i could do the Tupperware thing.
if i close it in it while it's printing if it's air tight it will be literally impossible to smell anyhing, altho since i will be printing just a little, the main issue i had was with it just sitting there for months evaporating and being smelly, but a big zip bag will probably take care of that
>>
>>2387271
Different chemical compositions smell differently. Clear resins from different manufacturers can even have different smells (the Form 3 Clear resin is almost neutral in smell vs. the Anycubic one, which almost "bites"). It's not possible to give a blanket statement for the most part.
>>
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do you think resin printer could handle printing this? and in a way where i can actually use it
>>
>>2387273
when doing my ee projects i constantly run into problems where a device has some retarded proprietary connector i don't have and then i either have to solder wires directly or wait a month until chinks mail it to me, so being able to just print any connector i need on demand would be crazy handy
>>
>>2387274
Id just buy a sortiment of the usual connectors and have a bunch of single sockets in different pin sizes on hand, seems easier than designing a new plug/socket everytime.
Also remember you actually have to insert pins or pinclips into it after the fact, Id rather just tape/glue a bunch of singles together.
>>
>>2387273
probably yeah, but you would have to model them.
i usually just clip off the connectors and either crimp on new ones, or just solder the part on.
>>
>>2387278
Thats a better idea than my jerry-rig, unless youre handling vintage stuff you dont want to besmirch.
>>
thinken of getting an ender 3 v2 with a bltouch, so I wonder about any must-have upgrades, since it is made out of chinesium after all
>>
>>2387285
>springs
>dual z axis upgrade
>aluminum extruder upgrade
>Teflon tube upgrade
>>
>>2387179
idk why but im getting garrys mod/CS or valve vibes from this.
>>
>>2387302
color scheme obviously
>>
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For a long time i have use a simple relay to turn my heat bead on and off. But now i'm doing some upgrades to the printer and i have connected the heatbed directly to the mks gen l motherboard of the printer, which means the bead is now controlled by a mosfet and not a relay.
This means that if i want i could enable PID and PWM for the bed in marlin. But should i? i don't really understand what to put in these variables and i don't want to fuck it up.
Is there any advantage to using the PID instead of just regular on/off control for the bed?
>>
>>2387285
Just use it as is and upgrade if you have issues. Too many times dipshits on here claiming x printer is garbage after they bought it, couldn't figure out how to make it work, threw a whole bunch of meme parts at it then were amazed at it still not working.
You bunch of fucking retards watch way too much youtube.
>>
>>2387274
Don't bother. for something as large as a PCIE/microfit 3 connector you're looking at resin printing if you want it to work properly, and that's far more of a hassle than just having a set of 3~5A rated connectors, a set of 1-2A connectors, and the jist ones rated at whatever. resolder and recrimp as necessary.
>>
>>2382695
Bros what are the best alternative to the Creality Enders 3 v2 bed? The glass bed I got feels like shit that never sticks
>>
>>2387350
Textured pei/scuffed smooth pei.
The caborundum beds are minimum viable, if nothing sticks to it you're doing something wrong.
What material, what temps, and in what way does the plastic not stick to it?
>>
>>2387342
you don't always have the option to just snip off connectors and crimp on new ones
nor i always want to do that, and keeping every type of connector in stock when there are like 5000 of them is just not possible.
So printing them with sla printer seems like a great option, not to mention it's cyberpunk as fuck, taking a good and turning it into functional component you can plug in. Finding a model or making it myself from a schematic is not hard at all, so i want to know if the sla printer can handle such detail where the connector will be fully functioning
>>
>>2387358
You're underestimating the value of your time, especially when prototyping/troubleshooting.
But to answer your question, yes. there are some abs-like resins that might be well suited to this application.
>>
>>2387353
Using 210 degrees, 60 bed for bed. The initial layer still looks like shit that barely sticks even after adjustments to the temp, speed etc.. When I tried glue stick it worked a little bit better but still looked like shit and tape method seemed to fix it. Is there something I was doing wrong?
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>>2387374
Using PLA btw
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>>2387374
babystep your first layer as the first layer is printing, you can typically get it to stick while the skirt is printing. >>2387162
. For most materials first layer has to be lightly pressed into the bed, also should be no thinner than 0.2mm. Typically 0.3 if you want to maintain a set it and forget type printer.
>>
Has anyone created water proof parts to depths of 20m here? I'm thinking small layer height, high temps, 0.6 nozzle.
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>>2387380
Define water proof.
Because I can pot an electronic component with a battery and charging coil and it'll be water proof.
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>>2384795
>>2387149
>cockfile
I thought this was vincent at first but its not, looks like one of same people running catbox or pomf cat? Extremely sketchy for a website to be named after another but not run by the same people.
>>2387072
>emalm.com
Wow yet another sketchy anonymous hosting site, no name whois registered in iceland through the same domain provider as cockfile, lmao

Guys, stop using honeypot hosting services. They're datamining you harder than google ever could, its probably literal government agents running these sites so they can find retards that share CP and their mass shooting plans. If any of you are data-concious enough to not use normie hosting sites, then surely you'd realize that giving your data to random anons is more dangerous than having any FAGMAN company sell you out.

And thats not saying good things can't be anonymous, cock.li is a great website. But cockfile ripping off vincent canfields work is screaming malware/bait. anons providing a service without any sort of reassurance about whos hosting the service is out to get you. Nobody would be using 4chan nearly as much if moot was just a ghost that never interacted with his community. hiro is taking things that way sure but even then you can still find his blogs and twitter and such. Even the fucking guys running lainchan are more discoverable and open than these anonymous hosting sites, don't fall for obvious traps bros.
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>>2387383
Are you saying that cockfile is a virus?

What are you trying to say?
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>>2387383
>guys stahp using sketchy sites to share non-sketchy and perfectly kosher files.
Here's one for the fed boys. Fully automatic white supremacist extremist keychain ornament.
https://a.cockfile.com/XHixCM.stl
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>>2387379
I can never get it to work perfectly on the glass bed even babystepping the first layer never works. It will be fine 1 minute and stick, next minute the whole filament decides to go fucking everywhere
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>>2387382
Pressure vessel that will be dry inside up to depths of 20m (for ROV shenanigans).
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>>2387387
Take the glass bed off and give it a good wash with dish soap. Also, what PLA are you printing? Please tell me it's not what shipped with your printer. If it is, try some other filament. Creality might've improved their sample mix, but I still distrust it.
Is this a new problem or is it something just recently developed?
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>>2387392
Its the Creality ones. I would say new problem after multiple completions of stuff I have made it did start lose the ability to stick. I'm using a BL Touch so leveling should not be much of an issue either if its affecting the overall adhesion. The problem however goes away completely when using tape which made me believe it was the glass bed causing it
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>>2386198
yeah, its super clean on the other side too. Just have to sand it down and get it ready for molding next.

>>2386872
I don't, just because its just for molding. the casted blade will have a support beam yeah.
>>
Is this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/125229359396?hash=item1d28406124:g:uUUAAOSwK1ZiQttx even worth considering for babby cheapskate's first printer, or should I not even consider risking it? My budget isn't really that tight or anything, I am willing to spend up to around $200, but I don't know how often I will use one of these.
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>>2387238
so i did some more reading and decided to pull the trigger on the printer, with a big bag to stop any cancer from evaporating when i'm not printing and with the washing and curing station i think it will make the printing and curing almost not tedious at all. plus with a kilogram of resin thrown in as well i will still be under $300 so even if i found out that i hate resin printing the money wasted wouldn't be suicide fuel tier
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>>2387433
>unrepaired.
>doesn't know if he'll get into 3d printing.
anon... what the fuck are you doing? At the very least get a refurbished one.
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>>2387435
what do you mean? i already own filament 3d printer and i use it constantly, so i for sure am into printing, i'm just saying that if i want the sla one too tedious to use or too smelly or whatever, which i probably wont but it's not impossible
And buying refurbished from chinks is a huge risk. not like i can rma it. and i don't even think they sell them on ali
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so i read that the vat eventually shits itself since the print keeps getting tipped of from the glass at the bottom, but how many hours of printing does it last on average?
other that that i don't think there are any parts that shit themselves alot?
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>>2387439
dayum just 7 bucks for new vat flooring, i love chinks
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>>2387438
my bad, clicked on the wrong post.
>>2387435 was meant for >>2387427
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>>2387439
buy nfep it's better and lasts longer
and buy a screen protector so when it does leak, it won't destroy the electronics
the LCD screen is also a consumable and will eventually wear out from being blasted by UV light
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>>2387448
i will only print about 3 times per month on it and the screen is rated for 20k hours so it should last me a very long time
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>>2387451
okay
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>>2387455
is the nfep thing only affecting lifespan or also print quality?
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Made a little hyroponics tower for the office.
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>>2387476
Does any water come in contact with the prints? Are you worried about chemicals leeching out?
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>>2387162
Thanks a bunch dude, definitely going to give it a shot!
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>>2387476
Cute, but you probably could've made the same thing with PVC pipes.
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>>2387478
inside is coated with epoxy
>>2387481
if there were enough space i would have done a different system. for now this will have to do but if it works, im gonna try the pvcpipe thing
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>>2387219
Resin that sits too long will separate from its pigment and may cause issues with first layer adhesion. If you know you're not going to print for a month it's best to pour the resin back in the bottle. There's no need to clean the vat or get every last drop out, any residules will get mixed in the next time you fill up the vat. If you are going to let it sit for only a couple of day though, just leave the resin in the vat and give it a good stir with a silicon spatula. The main reason you unload resin from a vat that's not getting used for a while is that when the pigment settles out, it creates an opaque layer the clings to the FEP and is a pain to mix back in.
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>>2387496
>pigment
that is why i want to only use clear resin, so i can let it sit in the printer for a year and have no such issue
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>>2387478
That's a good question.
Are there any filaments that are foodsafe?
Technically natural unpigmented PLA, PETG, ABS without any additives should be, but they're nearly impossible to come by.
What's the deal with polycarb and polycarb blends these days?
>inb4 hips.
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>>2387501
To add to this, some nozzles contain lead and shouldn't be used to make foodsafe items.
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>>2387502
Only the brass nozzles.
But if you want to get into harmful chemicals from nozzles you've also god cadmium, which is a well known carcinogen all over the world and result in instant death if you're in europe or california and get exposed to it.
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>>2387499
...maybe. The thing is with clear resins is that all the components are clear, so if it can separate, no one knows.
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>>2387509
it's not like there is any difference between vat and bottle. in a bottle the pigment will separate too, so i would assume all you have to do is stir it
also i'm seeing that maximum shelf life of resin is only 12 months? man that sucks, filament lasts basically forever when stored dehydrated and air tight. With with only year on resin if i find some super cheap somewhere then there will be no point in stocking up or if the society collaspes my resing printer will become useless in a year
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>>2387523
The difference is you can shake the bottle.
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>>2387467
both
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is there something like flexible resin so i can print an ona hole?
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>>2387582
Just fucking buy one.
Amazon has the stupid things same day delivery.
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>>2387582
anon it's literally been answered twice in this thread alone lmao
print a mold if you want to print one and then pour your silicone into it
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>>2387304
This is true, but I swear custom map had the axis on the face of the boxes, too.
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>>2387302
it does look like all the source/tf2 modded maps using default textures
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>>2387583
i can't just buy one, they don't sell the ones i like
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>>2387604
You say this as if you've got cad files for a mare's reproductive system.
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>>2387606
i do thats why i want to print it, the store mostly only sells human ones, or popular species like dragons but not the species i want
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>>2387273
>>2387358
Absolutely. As long as it's not high-power, you should be fine making those kinds of things - I did. The only thing you'd need to worry about is how "snappy" the connectors are; some of them are meant to deform when connecting (like the ones with tongues or detents that you need to press down) and those would be more likely to crack when SLA printed. Stuff lke the red connectors or the chunkier ones where the corresponding connector just slots in with little resistance would be just fine.
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Waiting on OP be like
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Are there any premade temp tower gcodes for ender 3 v2 that have the layer temps already set?

When doing 100% infill does the 'pattern' matter for strength? Not sure how 100% infill with cubic would work..

Last Q,how do I know when I need to adjust belt tightness? I just set it to be flush with the nut. The booklet that came with the thing is potato and the demo files didn't work but I did a first print of a robot using the small bit of included white PLA and that came out looking fine.
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It took a lot of unnecessary extra effort, but I have successfully gone from this:
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To this:
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>>2387647
Enjoy your new Maliwan printer anon
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what would happen if you were to hit a resin print with uv while it's still inside alcohol container? assuming any uncured printer resin is now washed off, would the print cure? would the alcohol block the uv?
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>>2387647
Is anyone on the voron team working on an enclosed printer with the motors outside the enclosure now the stratasys patent has expired?
>>
new thread

>>2387713
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>>2387427
I mean that's cheap. But you can get a new one for under 200 on a good sale. I'd message the seller and see what he says is wrong with it.
>>
>>2387647
How do you like the new afterburner? I haven't changed mine yet I was going to wait for it to be fully released



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