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Last thread: >>2377012

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 Pro (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Flashforge creator pro 2
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own voron, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
>>2379517
>>2378991
>>2378966
>>2378957
Thanks frens, after super gluing the extruder arm it's now working well and the aluminum one is already ordered
>>
FreeCAD is a bucket of hot diarrhea crap.
That is all, thank you.
>>
>>2379472
they are nice for the glossy finish, plus they don't bend and are harder to damage (unless you're using PETG).
>>
>>2379532
Agreed. There's so much wrong with it I don't even know where to begin.
>>
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I finally got my flow rate and print speed in enough of a sweet spot that I'm not seeing excessive gaps in my horizontal layers
now the only things I need to figure out is why I've got this bulging on my corners, and how to get rid of this rampant z axis banding, I went over both lead screws with a wire brush to get a bunch of thin filament wisps that had built up in the threads and that seemed to have improved the banding a small amount compared to the last cube but this is still way too much to be acceptable
I'm on an ender 5 plus using cura and currently printing PETG at (currently) 24mm/s

I'm begging for help here because there's fuckall for good documentation/user experiences for the e5+
>>
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Any of you jackasses got an Anycubic Vyper?
>>
>>2379556
You need to align your Z leadscrews so that there is no runout. Also the leadscrew nut should be installed loosely so it can shimmy back and forth to compensate a bit for imperfections.

After I did this I got almost all banding out of my prints.
>>
anybody who's upgraded off a stock ender plastic extruder got an opinion on these two options?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PGLZ4?pd_rd_i=B0761PGLZ4&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08F23ZNTG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1
>>
ender 3v2 spectrum pla
every new line the printer starts looks like this, the print doesn't adhere properly, if it manages to start a line without peeling it back off when I just touch it with my finger it gets unstuck
I tried changing temps from 190-210 and bed 40-65
>>
>>2379559
No, a lot of people have had issues with it
>>
>>2379556
Did you try tightening your belts? It's a pretty common problem with most problems desu. You want them as tight as the pulleys and bearings will tolerate.
>>
>>2379639
Clean your bed properly. When you are done clean it again.
>>
>>2379604
both of them have some pretty bad wobble watching it move on that axis now, I think I'm just going to buy new screws at this point, I don't see myself having the capability to straighten them
>>2379642
Yeah I was wondering if they'd gotten slack since I've had the printer for over a year now, I'll try tightening them when I work on the lead screws
>>
>>2379639
clean print bed, probably dust and grease built up
otherwise re-level bed
otherwise swap build surface for something with better adhesion or get some print glue
>>
I got a Voxelab Aquila and added a BLtouch and it's printing like a champ. I'm really impressed a $200 printer runs this well
>>
>>2379649
>>2379652
Thanks it seems to work now, I cleaned it with some IPA, I avoided touching the surface with my hands but I guess there's enough dust to stop it from sticking
>>
>>2379684
There are many kind of side agents in the plastic, the print will contaminate the bed without you touching it. Just clean it after every print, and not just a smudge over the printed part but the whole area like the entire bed was contaminated.
>>
>>2379684
Clean with scotch beige pad and dish soap. God I really wish people would stop with the isopropyl meme. All it does is smear the grease around.
>>
>>2379641
A lot of people have issues with the Ender but that doesn't stop people from buying it
>>
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>>2379523
No problem.
Also, don't be afraid of contacting the reseller. Maybe things have changed in terms of who the people selling these printers are, but they are certainly aware of this issue. They might appreciate you willing to work with them, for they sold you a defective product. I would've happily covered the $10 to get a metal arm out your way. It would've cost me more in shipping to bring the printer back, and there's the cost in time to troubleshoot it myself/having it be a tripping hazard until I got around to refurbishing it or worse, trying to get Chang to take it back.
Back in 2016-2017(2017-2018?) I used be a CR10 reseller and I quickly learned to include two spare arms with each cr10. Nearly every single one of the first 15 that I sold had some form of issue. Three people ordered a chargeback and kept the fucking printer, the others were kind enough to send the printer back, and four people asked if I could send them a replacement part after they located the issue on their own. I sent those nice gentlemen two full kilos of PLA along with the replacements scavenged from the printers that came back due to some other issue(often shitty printing due to the creality included white "PLA" or users unable to get filament to stick to the smooth glass bed).
After that debacle I started including a kilo of decent PLA with a USE FIRST sticker, a sheet of kapton for the bed, two printed abs extruder arms, and loading videos on the SD card showing general troubleshooting, how to install the kapton, and change the arm when it breaks. 30 minutes of extra work and about $20 in additional details/shipping saved me much more from printers coming back or being refunded. It boggles the mind how in 5-6 years they just haven't bothered either thickening that wall or start using a lower profile insert.
>>
>>2379639
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0WKA4gXG-I
After you've cleaned your bed with alcohol.
>>
>>2379702
proportionally way more have issues with anycubic. everybody and your mom has an ender, obviously a few will have problems. be sure to post about yours when it arrives.
>>
>>2379683
Speak of the devil, the hotend either started spilling into the silicone cover or had a leak between the nozzle and heatbreak halfway into a long print and now there's a huge blob covering the bottom half of the hotend
>>
The box is freaking me out a little.

Needs sanded, really tight fit.
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>>2379801
Another view.
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>>2379766
>obviously a few will have problems
see >>2379716
They all have problems. Some are poor use, but others are just idiotic design decisions and a function of cost cutting/qc/untrained pre-assembly.
The benefit of the creality is almost all these problems are extensively documented with detailed capa procedures that often result in a better printer. You're also bound to find parts purpose made to interact with your existing hardware should you ever wish to throw money at it for some unknown reason. Some time ago there might not have been much of a difference since everyone was selling a white label creality junk with different stickers, but now we have proprietary low volume junk.
>>
ender 3 max or ender 5 plus
>>
>>2379832
Neither, get a ender 3 S1 or a Prusa.
>>
>Install Spider hotend
>no flow
>Don't know what to change on Cura to capitalize on the flow
Help pls
>>
>>2379801
>Needs sanded
please explain this zoomer grammar to me. were you taught this in school or is it just a stupid grammatical quirk zoomers developed?
>>
>>2379559
Kek good luck with your ribbon cables. They're going to melt.
>>
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>>2379907
Hahaha you're a fucking retard. It's not a stock drop in. You need to do a lot of things:
1) use an open source screen so you can use open source firmware. You need to set the maximum temps to 300c, it says it can do 500c but the rated maximum of it is 310, so set it to 300.
2) you need to hook up a PC and do a pid tune. How the fuck is it suppose to know what temperature it's at if you don't define it first with that heater block.
3) probably should do this first, print off an extended cooling duct.

I swear to Christ you creality tards need to get the fuck out of here and buy a prusa.
>>
>>2379952
Hey thanks for the tips! I'll keep them in mind. My ender 6 runs th3d firmware and screen already so I should be good to go! I'll just design and print a new shroud with a cooling duct.
>>
>>2379936
You don't know what sanding is? It's got nothing to do with his age. You're just a moron. How do you not understand something as basic as "needs sanding"... I hate boomers so much it's unreal. Why are you still around? You're such a waste of everything.
>>
>>2379956
he didn't say needs sanding you retard he said needs sanded which sounds absolutely stupid.
>needs to be sanded
>needs sanding
either is fine. needs sanded is retarded zoomer shit.
>>
>>2379958
how is it zoomer?
>>
>>2379907
Do you know how to code? If not you're about to learn. You need to use marlin, th3d unified firmware is legit. Do you have a touch screen or color screen? If so, you'll want to use a different screen. Th3d carries the 12864 lcd you'll need. Use their firmware and use vscode to set your settings for 300c. Then you'll need to hook your board up via USB and use pronterface to do a pid tune. Hope you have a windows 8.1, 10, or 11 laptop, Macs are incapable of doing low level stuff like this. Linux is a pain in the ass but it works fine. As the other anon said, it's not a drop in experience. Creality is working on upgraded firmware for this hotend and is releasing new shroud STL files you'll need to print with your existing mk8 hotend first before proceeding. It's a brand new product. In their press release they even state that it's not compatible nor does it have any support at the moment. It's for existing customers who know how to modify Marlin and use custom firmware already. Did you not watch their YouTube video demoing it? Did you not read the instruction pamphlet that came in the box?
>>
>>2379961
Oh yeah and Windows 7 and below can't do pid tuning as they lack the kernel modules.
>>
>>2379960
He's just a nitpicky asshat who needs a fucking 24h ban to think about trolling outside of /b/.
>>
>>2379850
never even heard of the s1 and on googling it all I see are videos and articles saying not to go for it lmao
>>
>>2379832
>Do I want to eat shit or puke for breakfast
Save more and get a prusa.
>>
>>2379980
>overpriced czechshit with months-long leadtimes
nah
>>
>>2379983
Not to mention their ender 5+ equivalent is literally 5 x the price and won't be available for another year if you buy one now
>>
>>2379983
>Being impatient about 3d printing
NGMI
It's also not overpriced. Not even by a country mile. You get what you pay for. Enjoy troubleshooting and endless tinkering just to spend more money and time in the long run "upgrading" just to get close to what the mk3s+ and mini can offer. Some things are worth the wait. I would trade 100 ender printers for 1 mk3s+ after owning from several companies, prusa comes out on top by a country mile in terms of print quality, ease of use, 24/7 phone support etc. But hey good luck googling your issues and hopefully after you've dumped 2 grand USD and 900 hours into your ender 3, it'll come close enough for you to cope.
>>
>>2379987
The ender 5 is Cartesian, not corexy troll.
>>
>>2379987
Seriously all I hear from you is poorfag cope and a lack of will to searching Facebook rummage sale.
>>
>>2379958
If it makes you feel worse (and I hope). I said sanded and I was born in 1982.
>>
>>2379972
Okay I didn't see that. Maybe the YouTube stuff I saw was wrong.
https://youtu.be/coX4Ci9tWu0

In any case be sure to get auto leveling.
>>
>>2379989
I agree and disagree with you. Having bought a cheap printer (ender 3 v2 clone Aquila) I have saved a lot of money, but I spent a lot of time learning and troubleshooting. But my time is free.
>>
>>2379996
Don't explain yourself to retards bro. Needs sanded is common enough that only a faggot smoothbrain would have trouble understanding basic sentence structure.
>>
>>2379999
Thanks, it is amazing what sets people off. Like how do they function in the real world.
>>
>>2379997
yeah my buddy has a bltouch and auto measuring on his and I really don't want to go through doing that stuff all manually every time it needs adjusting
I'll look more into the s1 in the morning, maybe my search algorithm's just fucked
>>
>>2379998
>But my time is free.
This right here is why a lot of people tend to buy garbage. I get it. At least you admit it. The mk3s+ really isn't tinker friendly. Yes there's clear upgrades available but they cost quite a bit. I had an aquila and for the 7 months it worked, it was serviceable.
Reasons I love my mk3s+
1) $97 stepper motors, they're not bottom of the barrel loud garbage
2) the software and integration is head and shoulders above everything else. It's still all open source but they put locks on things to stop morons from bricking things.
3) if I have a problem, I can call prusa on the phone. I had a plastic part split. I called them, provided my printer info, they asked for my address and sent me the part 2 days shipping, no cost to me. Many such cases.
4) everything after I assembled the kit simply just worked. I printed Lego style bricks that were perfectly compatible out of pla. I see a ~95% success rate of prints. Yes it can fail but that's after endless hours of printing and the printer needing oiled, maybe new belts or a new nozzle. It never clogs unless I use shit filament.
5) the ecosystem. You're buying an entire ecosystem of parts, prints, people, etc who all have the same printer that doesn't need to be upgraded, that's good enough out of the box. It's an entirely different experience. You're not just on your own like I was with the ender 6 or the aquila. Yes I'm able to figure things out on my own but it's so much nicer with like minded individuals.
6) the wiki. All the documentation is such high quality.
7) it's orange.
>>
>>2380000
They simply don't. They're the ones screaming at McDonald's cashier's because they put too much ice in their iced coffee.
>>
>>2379952
>I did a while ago but need to update it for this
>Need to do that but it's printing PLA well enough right now so I could do a bed level
>I did beforehand
Thanks for reminding me that current firmware doesn't just know everything.

>>2379961
>In their press release they even state that it's not compatible nor does it have any support at the moment. It's for existing customers who know how to modify Marlin and use custom firmware already. Did you not watch their YouTube video demoing it? Did you not read the instruction pamphlet that came in the box?
I know this is facetious but I still hate how these fucks don't actually include any instructions with this shit and expect you to just know magically.
>>
>>2380009
Few things come to mind.
1) it's not magic it's common sense. If you know that the printer can only go to 260c, 500c is going to need new firmware
2) they provide all the information on their product pages. So this is all on you for not reading so no they don't expect you to magically know. It's not their fault you can't fucking read. And yes they do provide instructions.
https://youtu.be/dGkBe1ZjsZg
3) now fuck off until you stop being so unbelievably stupid. Stop blaming the product. Stop blaming the company. You're the one at fault. Curb your fucking pride you absolute piece of shit.
>>
>>2380016
Nigger I wasn't saying the fucking hotend was defective I said how do I optimize it. The plastic just got caught on something and it does pla fine. I already followed that videos instructions for installation and there are no fucking instructions in the box you cunt.
>>
>>2380018
It's on the Amazon page. It's on the creality website. It's on their YouTube channel. Why the fuck are you this dense? The only nigger here is you for not reading the product pages and researching your purchase BEFORE YOU DROPPED $50 ON IT! I hate people like you so much it hurts. People like you are the reason we need warning signs on cups of coffee. Please stop 3d printing it's clearly not fit for you.
>>
>>2380018
>Only prints pla
>Wastes $50 on an all metal hotend
>Calls others niggers after being proven wrong
My sides are in orbit. This is microwave time levels of meme stupidity. Holy fuck I'm laughing so hard I woke my wife up. Good heavens how are you this stupid? Thank you for the laugh.
>>
>>2380021
Sounds like you should've bought a prusa
>>
>>2380024
I own both a prusa mk3s+ and a very modded ender 6. It's not my fault you can't read.
>>
>>2380024
Seriously if this is what's tripping you up now, you have bigger problems. You're either very new or very stupid or a combination of both considering it sounds like you did zero research and just bought it expecting it to work out of the box. The claims you made about them saying it's drop in compatible are verifiably false. When they went on stage to talk about their new product lineup they dropped the ender 3 s1 pro, upgraded motherboards, and this new hotend:
>For the modded who knows what they're doing and wants to squeeze the most out of their current printers who don't need their hands held. You'll need to use custom firmware.
It's up on YouTube. I'm not searching for you my friend. I'm not your mother but it's there.
>>
>>2380026
Oh yeah and the cr laser for laser falcon engraver.
>>
Please note that the sprite extruder isn't drop in compatible either before you go spending $150 on that then come in crying that it's not working. You need custom Marlin for all of this stuff and you need to know how to code and compile stuff.
>>
>>2380026
You're still on this? Are you autistic or something?
>>
>>2380031
You pissed me off by lying and being unbelievably insufferable. The sad part is you won't even admit to being wrong. I bet you beat on women, children, and dogs thinking it's somehow an ok thing to do.
>>
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For some reason the X and Y shifted on the printhead causing it to misalign... I first thought the print piece had shifted but the supports in the middle were offset too (not connected to the outer parts)
I think the fan cover hit the piece, any other reasons it might be?
>>
>>2380021
Is that some patent infringing one-handed-nozzle-changing pins I see?
>>
>>2379532
It actually makes me angry how bad it is.
>>
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hey frens, any idea how i could create 3d patterns like these on the walls of my prints?

it can be either in blender or fusion 360
I'm pretty sure they didn't model it by hand one by one, it's probably some 3d texture or something
>>
>>2380066
It is what you get when you ask /g/ to do engineering
>b-but it is free as in freedom
>it does circle, look I'm engineering
>>
>>2380093
Sketch lines on face, then route it out with the shape of your choice
>>
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>>2380093
managed to figure it out
i am such a smart boy. i don't understand why women won't have secks with me
>>
>>2380152
just print a gf, dummy
>>
>>2379639
are you printing with PLA?
clean the bed with warm water and soap.

if you're trying to print PETG on glass then give up on that and buy either FR4 or PEI bed.
>>
Anyone know the cheapest way to get Solidworks?
>>
>>2380173
there's some sort of plane club you can join to get it for a 97% discount or something crazy like that.
i'm sure someone here can provide the full details.
>>
>>2380173
Just sail the high seas m8.
>>
>>2380057
I just werks
>>
>>2380173
There's some way to get a student plan I saw in a reddit post. Not sure if it's still available or not, but you could try checking there before jumping through piracy hoops.
>>
>>2380173
yo ho ho
>>
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>>2380057
>I think the fan cover hit the piece, any other reasons it might be?
Looks to me like it needs support. Seems you just have build plate support on.
>>
>>2379532
>>2379534
>>2380066
>>2380095
But I just installed FreeCAD. Seems like I'm gonna have a bad time.
>>
>>2380259
To make simple stuff, it's fine. Pick a tutorial in youtube if you don't know where to start.

It does have its quirks though, and for more complex things, you'll have to go with something else.
>>
>>2380259
Depends on what you want to do.
A headphone holder? You're fine. Something that has moving parts and needs clearances, needs to be genuinely parametric for multiple revisions? You will suffer.
>>
>>2380173
>>2380174
>plane club
EAA subscription. You get heavily discounted SolidWerks but you also have to pay the EAA $50 a year.
>>
>>2380173
Give Hawk Ridge Systems $4k or so.
>>
https://youtu.be/9peACH52KTo?t=36

Probably a dumb question, does this fully automatic layer calibration mean you don't have to level the bed yourself? Or is it just like other fancier printers where it'll make microadjustments if there are distance discrepancies after you get the bed leveled and measured
>>
>>2380316
It uses a strain gauge to determine where the nozzle is, so not only do you not have to level the bed at all, it is able to reliably do the tool changing.
I wonder if there's a way to sell my preorder.
>>
>>2380393
goddamn that's so nice sounding
I'm tempted to waste a month's salary on this thing
>>
>>2380405
Most people would be better served by an idex/dualnozzle+extruder setup for soluble supports/support interfaces.
>>
>>2380316
>>2380405
the prusa xl is like a 3d printer idealized fan fiction oc brought to life
>modular heatbed
>multiple extruder
>quickchange heatblock
>extruder breakout board
>cycloidal gear extruder
>load cell calibration
if the xl delivers on half of these it's going to be amazing, but >>2380411 is right, most of the people who buy one won't really appreciate or even understand any of these features aside from the multiple extruders
>>
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does anybody have a link to a file with an articulated imperial shuttle? I found one a few years ago that I printed on a resin machine and wanted to try it again on an fdm but I've lost my download
>>
>Install TH3D on Ender 3 v2
>BL Touch works and z homes
>Set Z-Offset
>Execute Print
>It doesn't give a shit and stays floating in the air.
Is this a Cura issue or does TH3D just do that? I'm using completely stock Cura printer and print settings save for a 0.6mm nozzle.
>>
>>2380516
Are you still using the closed source color screen?
>>
>friend has me helping with some print settings
>he keeps telling me issues that sound like they're complete opposites
>ask him if he's calibrated his e-steps recently
>never has
>walk him through it
>he's underextruding by nearly a full 10mm
>walk him through fixing it
>all of his problems gone immediately
jesus fucking christ
>>
>>2380427
>>modular heatbed
And yet no kinematic mounting for a truly trammable bed. It's wasted potential
>>
>>2380604
It's amazing how few people never do pid tuning nor e-step calibration. Then nobody prints temperature towers etc. You should see my notebook, it's just filled with things I've learned.
>>
>>2380659
>never do either
>printer prints flawlessly for two years until it gets a heatbrake clog
>clear it
>flawless prints
Wake me when its mandatory.
>>
>>2380659
Never done any of that shit. Just bought filament and used the profiles in cura for my filament and printer. Just werks.
>>
>>2380659
how tf does anyone need to PID tune other than for a new hot end or heater cartridge?
>>
>>2380592
Yep. Does it matter that much?
>>
>>2380706
I should clarify the hardware is original. The software they said to flash got installed.
>>
>>2380707
Go to about and snap a picture with your phone, I want to see your firmware version.
>>
>>2380669
>>2380676
>>2380699
Whatever you say samefag troll.
>>
>>2380706
I mean no it doesn't but it adds a few steps.
https://youtu.be/ZHA1PkkXCH0
Follow this video tutorial. He can explain it better than I ever could. It's got someone to do with the screen.
>>
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>>2380715
>>
>>2380427
I have one coming with all five toolheads
I expect it to be really fucking cool
>>
>>2380263
>>2380267
I want to model a 3.5 inch floppy disk.
>>
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>>2380714
>>
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>>2380717
Here I'm going to record a video of this but this is to show my z offset that's been stored to memory.
>>
>>2380740
Yeah check that YouTube video out. I noticed that the first time I tried to compile it, vscode was incomplete and didn't export everything. I had similar problems on my ender 6. I ended up replacing the screen entirely. On my e3v2 the firmware worked properly once I figured out vscode. It's a pain right in the ass and switching to Ubuntu solved it for me, then once I figured out what I did on Ubuntu, I removed vscode, deleted some files in a hidden directory (can't remember off hand which but it's easy enough to Google) and reinstalled vscode, installed the proper addon, and reloaded unified and compiled, tested, and everything worked. Note, wait for the addon to finish before doing anything. Make a cup of coffee and walk your dog, it can take like 10 minutes to fully install the vscode addon properly. If it installs instantly, it failed and you need to delete the files and addon and start again. It's vscode being total bullshit. I'm a full on Ubuntu user now and I use an entirely different compiler that's a bit more technical and hard to use but it seems to complete tasks and compile things in a much more consistent way. It's more of a pain in the ass to setup and use, nowhere near as straight forward but the end result is just better. Either way, once you get that addon in vscode setup proper and you set your parameters and click compile, it should just work every time you need to change something for future mods. I use emacs now and it's way better but, like I said much harder to setup initially. It's beyond the scope of what you want to accomplish here but there's tutorials all over the internet and it's relatively simple if you're capable of figuring it out.
>>
>>2380742
See>>2380744
Your firmware might be missing parameters due to the addon being bored in vscode and you need to purge the files from your hidden directory and reinstall the vscode addon.
>>
>>2380744
>>2380745
That's fucking gay but I'll try it out. Here's the video I mentioned. I had to compress and make compromises to it to get it to upload but you should be able to see what's happening.
>>
Is there any real rules to reselling 3d printed stuff on etsy or ebay?

I see people printing models they probably don't own could you actually get in trouble for it? Or is it unlikely
>>
>>2380758
You'll get your accounts banned and possibly fined if you live in the United States. Get good at freecad.
>>
>>2380754
It's not leveling the entire bed. It's clear your firmware is screwed up. You have to recompile it properly and dial in your settings again.
>>
>>2380761
Ok. If anything im just gonna change the model around abit lol
>>
>>2380765
If you modify it, it falls under fair use.
>>
>>2380764
Well for one that's just homing the axes but yeah I'm working on it. Currently running into a "Your Configuration_adv.h file is for a newer version of Marlin. Upgrade Marlin or downgrade your Configuration_adv.h." but I took both the Marlin and the config files from their Github so I'm just a tad stumped. Could be that it's 3AM too.
>>
>>2380779
And I decided to go for just stock marlin because that's what I was running before. Lost my files from long ago so I'm just remaking it.
>>
>>2380779
>>2380780
am dumb I was using the wrong branch.
>>
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>it's the supports are fused to the model episode
>>
>>2380782
Hey it happens to the best of us. I was blaming vscode because it's honestly hot garbage and not you the user. No worries mate. My gut said it was your firmware not compiling properly. I've had it happen more than once which is why I switched over to emacs. Emacs is a bit more hands on and involved but if I have an issue like you're having, it gives more detailed error messages.
>>
>>2380784
god fucking damn it, i had to cut that shit with exacto knife
i don't get it, the supports all have spacing, how the fuck can they become fused
>>
>>2380803
You're printing way to hot or too slow. It's not about printing 250mm/s, it's more like "I find pla+ to print best at 218~222c so instead of printing 50-80, I'll print 60-90mm/s. I'll increase my travel speeds to that max that I can." Also dial in retraction. Your bed may not be level, look into getting a crtouch or a th3d probe.
>>
>>2380803
I'm willing to get the outside has plastic zits all over it. If it does, it's a clear sign that you're printing way to hot.
>>
>>2380803
>>2380806
>>2380808
>>2380784
The type of filament matters very much as well.
Personally I never had support issues with regular PLA or PETG, but with PLA+ supports nearly always fuse to the model.
I print at 120mm/s btw, which is pretty much the limit for my extruder.

I just accept that this is a fact of life we have to deal with. Just like a depression.
>>
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>>2380809
This is my pla+ profile and I never have issues. Learn to gap your shit.
>>
>>2380784
If the part that needs support is on just one or two layers, I always make a point to pause at that layer and manually sharpie the interface layer. Especially with ABS/ASA.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBGl4i668Tg
>>
>>2380812
>0.4mm contact layer.
No thank you.
>>
>>2379559
Got it in
My first printer with quiet stepper motors
It's eerie to see it just werking
Every print has come out fine
Even swapped the .4 nozzle with a .6 nozzle and that went painless.
Designed some fruit fly traps and printed three, plus some bag clips and it's all been really nice.
Going to print as much as I can during the return window.
>>
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>>2379936
>please explain this zoomer grammar to me. were you taught this in school or is it just a stupid grammatical quirk zoomers developed?
>>
>>2380798
Its very possibly the compiler still because I was running into issues even after choosing a different branch but I've got some ideas to try fixing it.
>>
>>2380610
not necessary but it would be another autism-pleasing notch on the belt if it did
why does that make you say it's wasted potential though? seems like it would function well either way
>>
>>2380864
>he likes struggling to remove supports
Thicker height means narrower extrusion width, thusly reducing the amount of contact required to support the same amount of material.
>>
>>2380936
>The year is 2022.
>Still not having idex or at the very least two hotends.
I mainly print abs with a hips interface layer when and if I need supports. But most parts are made such that they won't need them.
Too large a z contact distance defeats the purpose of supports.
>>
>>2379936
It's not generational, it's regional. Now how about you 'splain your shitty grasp of capitalization?
>>
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>>2379517
What ASA filament is the simplest to print? What's the easiest to acetone smooth?
>>
>>2380933
It's not much more expensive. It adds an extra motor and screw but eliminates one of the linear rods. It eliminates rocking back and forth that many dual z-axis beds suffer from, and it allows for true automated bed tramming, so your printer will just level your bed on its own. Plus it allows for thermal expansion. It's a more meaningful improvement to the print mechanism than the modular bed. The only real advantage the modular heated bed has is saving energy, which if you're printing anything like ABS/ASA or nylon you want the print chamber to be heated anyway, and I doubt people are buying a $2000 printer to just print PLA
>>
>>2380970
No anon, the form you're looking for is the gerund. It's sanding. You don't need a verb that took place in the past unless you denote it as a state of being,
>Needs to be sanded.
>Needs sanding.
but this whole debacle reminds me of the one time some reported an improper use of l'hospital's rule to the mods.
>>
>>2380989
>I doubt people are buying a $2000 printer to just print PLA
You underestimate how wealthy/debt friendly redditors are.
>>
How the fuck do i make my prints level
>>
>>2381021
You mean the bed, retard?
>>
>>2381043
I mean my prints are kinda warped and not flat
>>
>>2381021
Spirit level.
You can even print one yourself if you don't want to head out to buy one.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4427786
>>
>>2381050
Are you printing ABS, per chance? Use filament with low thermal expansion, or design parts with thicker walls and less planar surfaces.
>>
>>2381051
>>2381050
All jokes aside, post a picture and try to explain better.
Have you printed a 3 axis calibration thing like the one below?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195604
Do you mean your axis aren't square?
>>
Hopefully this image doesn't flip
>>2381053
Wood PLA
>>2381055
I'm trying to print a bottom plate for a redox keyboard i built
Kinda hard to see, but it's warped/not straight and wobbles when i type on certain parts of it
>>
>>2381059
You fucking donkey
>>
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>>2381059
Ree
>>
>>2381062
Did you leave it to cool down on the plate before peeling it off? You may have bent it in the process. Otherwise, PLA has a low thermal expansion so generally you should be okay, unless the wood additives change its properties sufficiently.
>>
>>2381063
>Did you leave it to cool down on the plate before peeling it off
I let it cool for about 15m but i think the bed was still warm. How long should I let it cool?
>>
>>2381067
Until cold with PLA, if you want to be extra certain. Put it back on a warm hotplate and you might able to fix that.
>>
>>2381070
Alright i'll try leaving it until its cool on another print
>>
>>2380770
k thanks for the info anon i wuv u
>>
>>2381077
The easiest solution is just sticking on some rubber bumpers to act as feet. Keep in mind that even a perfectly flat slab will have some wobble on it if the tiniest grain of sand gets under it, or if there's a slight curvature to the desktop. There's a reason things tend to have feet.
If you want perfect flatness you're probably going have to use glass.
You could probably salvage this one. I'd pull all the keycaps/stuff that might be damaged, warm bed to 70~80C, throw a towel over it and leave it for 30-60 minutes.
>>
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>>2381051
>>
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>>2381093
This better be a joke imported from reddit anon.
>>
>Download Marlin
>Edit it to fit my printer
>Finally get it to compile
>Flash the LCD
>Flash the machine itself
>Blank LCD
FUCKING WHY
Am I seriously going to need to get a new fucking mobo just to put something that isn't stock on the fucking ender v2?
>>
>>2379532
>>2379534
It’s pretty bad. Consider taking advantage of a torrent for some actual industry CAD software, perhaps an Autodesk product like Inventor.
>>
>>2380989
afaik kinematic coupling won't actually help thermal expansion, warping from thermal expansion isn't uniform across the bed since the edges of the bed cool more quickly
having tiles with gaps that function like expansion joints will do more in that regard
bed leveling would be improved, but I doubt the degree of impact would be that great, the ratrigs ive seen are pretty impressive but ive never had wobble issues on any i3 clone
maybe the bigger bed would make that more important, just judging on intuition and circumstantial observation
>>
>>2381093
>>2381096
My friend actually wanted to bring a level when I asked him if he can bring gap gauges for bed leveling
So there's a chance whoever took this photo was serious about it
>>
>>2381102
just get a raspberry pi and install octoprint, chuck the display in the "to be dissembled for parts" bin
or flash jyers, worked for me on ender 3 v2
>>
>>2381144
>just get a raspberry pi
are you living under a rock?
>>
>>2381187
Oh shit. I feel bad for anyone who doesn’t have a drawer full of these.
>>
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Name that color scheme (and ignore the layer lines, I'm still figuring out cooling on ABS):
>>
>>2381217
Gulf livery anon,
EZ
>>
>>2381224
Winner!
>>
>>2381201
How much did these things go for pre-shortage?
Captcha: W84GY
>>
>>2381240
Midrange was $20. The pi zero was $5. The pi zero w was $10.

What exactly is causing the shortage in pis anyway?
>>
>>2380997
>Being this angry over regional grammar
Now this is advanced autism.

His grammar sounds southern by the way. I hear it all the time around here, especially in ads for stuff like project cars
>needs worked on
>>
>>2381187
I got octoprint running on a Linux mint box fairly easily specifically because of the price retardation going on with rpis. It's pretty funny that you can get a used but functioning starter desktop for MORE than half the price of a god damn raspberry pi right now.
>>
>>2381265
It's probably just China putting Raspberry Pis in their new ICBMs or something. Nothing to look into or investigate...
>>
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>>2380997
>but this whole debacle reminds me of the one time some reported an improper use of l'hospital's rule to the mods.
>>
>>2381265
If you're lucky enough to have a goodwill with a computer dept near you you can get a core 2 duo box for like 40 fuckin bux
>>
>>2381086
Glass has slight give to it. If you put it on a warped bed you'll end up with a slightly warped piece of glass.
>>
>>2381286
I feel like I should clarify that the glass will conform to the warped bed only once you clamp it down.
>>
>>2381270
bro this could probably be its own thread but thrift stores are fucking exceptional for technology. I have bought 4 decent 1080p monitors from thrifting and yeah there are loads of perfectly useable computers and the cheapest dvi and hdmi cables around, perfectly working and good quality. Just second hand.
>>
>>2381314
I still wanna punch myself for passing up a booting Toshiba 1600 for $15.
>>
>>2381270
Most of the folks who work there don’t realize why a mechanical keyboard should not be priced the same as the $5 dell one.
At the same time, it’s not really a good idea to rip off thrift stores.
>>
>>2381329
I still paid like $70 for a minty Model M that I picked from a lot of four
Goodwill usually Knows What they Got™
>>
Do you 3D print stuff with your own material that helps you with your job?
>>
>can get inland pla+ from micro center for $19/lb with free shipping and no tax because I don't have one in my state
Is there a better deal on general purpose filament or should I stock up on all the colors I want? How's the quality?
>>
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>>2381356
Yes.
>>
Is there a common mod for the ender 3 pro that can use a more reliable bed leveling sensor than the BL touch?
>>
>>2381362
$19/lb is such as shitty deal that I can only assume you mean $19/kg. I usually just go with MatterHackers Build PLA for general purpose. I was paying about $19/kg, but it seems that they have raised the price to about $21 recently. Still though, it's pretty good filament for the price.
>>
>>2380955
Oh go you! How's that dual headed 3d printer? Does it say "I love you daddy?" Does it laugh and cry with you? It's a machine and you need to take your gatekeeping troll faggot ass back to the hovel you crawled out of with your attitude. Get out more and touch the grass.
>>
>>2381362
If your state didn't suck ass and you had a Micro Center you could just go to the store and buy it for $17/roll
>>
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>>2381217
That orange looks a little too red for it to be Gulf Oil.
>>2381240
Check
https://chicagodist.com/collections/raspberry-pi-4
Or the list of distributors on the Pi page. In the US there's Chiraq electronics, Vilros, Pishop, Micro center, sparkfun, Digi-key.
Every couple of days. A few anons on here were able to get some a few weeks ago.
Do not buy on amazon/ebay/ali. Those are outlets for scalpers.
I would go with either a Pi Zero W2 or a 2 to 4 gig ram Pi 4.
There are drawbacks for both options, and it's really a crapshoot in terms of how you want to go about it. The Pi zero will need a pi camera and a microusb hub in order to connect to anything, the Pi4 will be nearly three times as expensive but for the most part you can use stuff you've got laying around.
>>
>>2381395
>That orange looks a little too red for it to be Gulf Oil.
yeah agreed, I was assuming overwatch at first
>>
>>2381381
You need to smoke some Runtz through that ;)
>>
>>2381398
>not forum cut csg
ngmi
>>
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Okay finally got the firmware updated and the low poly charmander printed out nicely. My question is regarding why Cura is putting this in yellow. Is it not going to actually go that speed? I got a new hotend and everything that advertised that it could.
>>
>>2381144
>raspberry pi

Orange pi zero 2 is 24.95 on aliexpress, I bought a few to throw klipper on.

>>2381244
The chipset.
>>
>>2381395
Ok, what orange is in your picture? I went with KVP (f)agate orange because it seemed to match the picture of the car I posted, although I suspect it may have been repainted a shade or two darker as a lot of classic car guys like to do that. This agate orange filament is kind of a trip though, in some light it looks pink, and if you shine a black light on it it flows a bright toxic yellow. I think my blue (KVP sea blue) is a shade too dark also, but I'm pretty happy with how everything goes together.
>>
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>>2381411
The picture you posted has some kind of filter applied to it.
I'm using just plain old inland ABS, orange. Although if you want to get super precise and specific colors, there's no better than paramount 3d.
>>
>>2381386
I'm retarded and meant 1kg oops.

>>2381394
Yeah I'd prefer to have one but oh well what can you do.
>>
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>>2381414
It's the same Mycelium Center brand.
You may not get to choose the color. You can always look at what Esun's got on sale, although they've gone somewhat upmarket. Is Esun still doing white label filaments for inland and others?
>>
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>>2381412
>some kind of filter
Might just be the dreary UK skies.
but point still stands. The blue is a toned down pastel cyan, not unlike inland's light blue abs.
The inland orange is still not quite right (gulf is slightly redder) but closest that I find under $25/kg.
there's also paramount.
https://www.paramount-3d.com/product-page/abs-mclaren-orange-1-75mm-1kg-filament-orl20112019a
But frankly I like it the way it is.
>>
>>2381412
inland light blue + orange gang ww@
Sadly the layer adhesion on these was shit and they were disassembled
>>
>>2381412
>The picture you posted has some kind of filter applied to it.
Yeah could be HDR. Oh well, still looks better than Nero3Ds orange primary/blue accent Switchwire! Thanks for the tip on Inland, I was looking for a good and cheap ABS with decent color selection for when I get my ERCF up and running, everyone seems to want KVP or Esun for printed parts kits though.
>>
>>2381420
What are those? Rubber band, nerf?
>>
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>>2381201
>$150 raspberry pi
>>
>>2381423
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9pzS4icink
Design could use some iteration and refinement desu.
>>
>>2381419
Point taken, and I like to think that the slightly darker colors are what the would have gone with if it wasn't for all those pigment shortages in the 1960's caused by paint factory workers being high on acid and thinking that enough pigment (and patterns too!) was already in the batches of paint they were mixing. Like a great man once said on TV: it was real in my mind.
>>
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>>2381420
Are you printing in a 45+C enclosure?
I get two perimeters holding up to abuse decently well all the time out of it.
>>2381422
It's good but you have to consider that it takes a bit more cooling than others.
for example, my matterhackers pro abs $50/kg
>for fucking ABS
is set to print at around 250C with 45%fan at most.
The inland profile is 235-240 with up to 70%fan. I recently had to dig a spool out of the bin because I kept getting melty parts. >>2378654
>>
>>2381201
I bought 2 zeros Ws last october (for 15$ each), then got pissed when they release the zero 2 W a month later (pick one of those up for 18$)
I've very happy I bought them then. People are raping the Pi and its a crime because of the purpose of the Pi foundation.
I heard its at the point that scalpers have bots buy up all the stock on the handful of primary resellers websites the moment they come in.
Maybe we'll get Pi's at their MSRP in like 2025, but not sooner
>>
>>2381427
No; I did them with a voron 2.4. The chamber gets up to ~34C. But those were printed prior to me finding out that I was using too much fan through testing, found that layer adhesion is a compromise related to overhang quality.
>>
>>2381428
I'd be willing to bet that the scalpers are part of this whole plan to make everyone live in the pod and eat the bugs.
>>
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Postan in Gulf livery general
>>
>>2381429
I have been running like 15-20% fan on the Afterburner in my 2.4, basically just enough to give the layers even cooling instead of relying on time, which can vary as you finish parts on the plate and move up to smaller top sections. Are you the 45-70% fan guy above or do you run something different? Also where's the best place for the chamber thermistor mount?
>>
>>2381399
>Not knowing what Runtz is
NGMI
>>
>>2381434
Noice
>>
>>2381424
181.88 for the real one
>>
>>2381434
What is it, looks clean whatever it is. What the fuck is a gulf livery?
>>
>>2381440
It's the paint scheme that Gulf Oil used for their race cars in the 60's.
>>
>>2381439
I will not pay a cent more than $141.88 for a Pi4!
>>
>>2381434
That blue definitely nails it, But the orange they used is such a rare bird.
>>
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this is called "natural" color, do you think it's transparent? i can't find any print pics
>>
>>2381479
Translucent, anyway. It won't be optical quality unless you print thicc lines.
>>
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>>2381480
ok thanks, one more question
this is PLA carbon filament, does that mean it's only a color shade, or that they actually aded some carbon powder shit into the pla? which i don't want since it scratches my extruded
>>
>>2381481
hmm now that i'm think about it they probably added carbon since the spool costs twice as much
>>
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0.6mm nozzle and it's looking pretty nice
>>
>>2381487
You should print an rc car from thingiverse with me. I'm going to pull the electronics out of a cheap piece of shit I bought off of eBay. It broke within minutes and I'm like "oo project car!"
>>
>>2381489
That might be fun but unfortunately I've got a few things on my plate as is friend.
>>
>>2381144
>>2381187
I just realized the prices on these what the fuck? I bought mine like a year and a half ago for cheap, just buy any SBC that can run linux or a cheap dell optiplex and place the printer on top of it lol
>>
>>2381485
In that case, it likely has carbon fiber.
>>
Any business that will take a stl and cast it in metal?
>>
>>2381501
I'll do it for you. How much money do you have?
>>
so pla+ is just more premium pla?
>>
>>2381503
about three fiddy
>>
>bought ender 3 v2 for first printer
>pain in the ass to set up
>can't even get abs to stick to glass after hours of working with it
I'm beginning to think I'm retarded. It gets easier, right?
>>
>>2381532
No, you're only partially retarded. ABS is higher difficulty, stick with PLA for now with that printer and save the headache. You really need an enclosure for ABS or it will just warp off the bed every single time. Now whether that means putting your Ender in a big cardboard box, a home built wooden/plexiglass enclosure, or getting a printer built for the job is up to you.
Seriously though, you gotta really fucking want it if you are going to print ABS. Like r9k levels of thirst.
>>
>>2381529
Ok, but you will have to bring your own aluminum cans to melt down (I can supply the dirt to make the mold), because they are going to eat too much into my profit margin otherwise. Come by at sun up.
>>
what a fucking scam.
literally every fucking pla that is being sold as transparent is actually only translucent
them fags are straight up lying
>>
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>>2381562
how the fuck is this transparent in any way?
>>
>>2381563
Light goes through.
You won't get any nice transparency with FDM.
Single walled segments will get you the best results, especially with larger nozzle sizes.
Or you can make thick walls and polish them, as long as there is not too much air trapped in the print.
>>
>>2381563
Tables are not transparent. What are you on about?
>>
>>2381563
you can do some interesting stuff with large nozzles, higher temps, no cooling, and printing all the same direction, but you will never get a glass like FDM print out of your home machine.
>>
>>2381563
The filament itself is 100% transparent, you can get a better look with higher temps, taller, and thicker extrusions. Every line is an interference point, remember light still has to travel through the part and internal geometry (like infill) will get in the way. try printing something in vase mode.
>>
>>2381437
cookies family made/grows runts you idiot
>he doesn't know GSC
>>
>>2381606
Or mold the print, then cast acrylic resin
>>
Any advice for Silk PLA? I got sunlu silk pla and I am having trouble with it, the layer adhesion is awful, I tried at 220 nozzle and 60 bed but still the print basically falls apart. In particular I got Sunlu Silk PLA and I wish id read the reviews first because i see a lot of ppl complaining about it being entirely unusable...
>>
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Any idea where I can get a schematic for the battery cover for pic rel? The one I got had a stripped screw and despite everything, I had to cut the battery cover off to get to the battery. I checked the links in OP and didn't find a match. Or should I just say fuck it and basically just instamorph it? I have a lot left over from othe projects.
>>
>>2381671
You might try drying the filament but to be honest it kinda sounds like bad filament. Ive had some inland slik PLA be a total bitch to print while others are a dream. I also have the mika3d 10 color assortment in silk colors and they all print & look great.
>>
>>2381671
It sounds like under extrusion, although it might just be part geometry. Silk PLA is slightly weaker than regular PLA.
Do you have your old filament still around? Try a calibration cube with both and report back. Dopesn't matter the order you do them in.
>>
>>2381679
>Try a calibration cube with both and report back
Yes, I did that yesterday. The old filament (regular PLA) cube came out just fine, the silk one was not bad looking, except for the Z which looked very stringy etc, also the overall shape of the cube is very flimsy, if I squeeze it a bit its easy to crush almost like a paper ball
>>
>>2381672
>Any idea where I can get a schematic for the battery cover for pic rel?
if it isn't on thingiverse grabcad or other websites like that you take your calipers, measure it and make it yourself
>>
>>2381693
Would I be able to do that with just the empty space? The original cover is completely wrecked, otherwise I'd upload my own from there.
>>
>>2381672
>Strips screw
>Didn't use a bit made for this issue
>Cuts through priceless artifact
Hahahahahahahaha
>>
>>2381729
I tried, it was well and truly fucked. I don't know what the previous owner did.
>>
>>2381740
Same fagging, found a busted one for ¥1000, so I'm just going to hop in on my friend's current order from Glorious Nippon and get that. I might measure the new case cover and upload for anyone else.
>>
>>2381563
>>2381586
>You won't get any nice transparency with FDM.
>>2381606
>but you will never get a glass like FDM print out of your home machine.

https://fenneclabs.net/index.php/2018/12/09/3d-printing-transparent-parts-using-fdm-fff-printer/

steps in your way
>>
>>2381754
>¥1000
Sure is a lot of moondollars for a broken nintendo thing. 10 whole bucks eh? Sounds like a yahoo auction to me
>>
>>2381704
just measure how much space the cover should take, approximate some things, measure as much as you can print a prototype and if it doesn't fit refine your design
>>
>>2381766 #
The yen is fucked at the moment, so it's closer to $8. And honestly, it can be worth it just to get a new back and upload it for anyone else who'd want it in the future. A couple other local friends are getting in on a GO so shipping won't be the worst. I have a lot going on atm, too, so my time is more limited than it normally would be.

>>2381784
I could do this too in the interim. Honestly, ¥1000 is hardly a lot for me so I can have a back up just in case my shit measurements fail. Feels nice to have a failsafe.
>>
>>2381562
>>2381563
Transparent is when your dad starts wearing a dress.
>>
>>2381251
It's regional to the Rust Belt, mostly on the Pittsburgh/Youngstown side.
>>
I've heard a lot of 3D printing sounds but I haven't heard creaking until my Y axis started doing it

Not sure why it's creaking, but I loosed the belts and oiled the rails to no avail
>>
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I recently picked up a used PrintrBot Simple Metal, how's the first test cube lookin'?
It's still all stock from what I can tell, so any old tricks or easy upgrades I should hit it with?
>>
>"salvage"-condition $20,000 printer
>auction starts at $50

hmmmm
https://swapauction.wisc.edu/Listing/Details/16193830/uPrint-SE-Plus-3D-Printer-PARTS-REPAIR
>>
>>2382069
Broke as shieeeeet
>>
>>2382069
What made it worth $20k in the first place?
>>
>>2382075
the little Stratasys logo on it
>>
>>2382078
Well shit, I can print one of those up right now!
>>
Soldering/melting printed pieces together is the only real way to join them change my mind
(you cant)
>>
>>2382069
vintage
>>
>>2382095
Acetone bonding Chad-ABS is the final solution.
>>
>>2381563
Bake it at 175c and it'll clear right up. Make sure you watch it. You can hit it with a blow torch really quickly as well.
>>
>>2382103
This. I mix acetone with my super glue. You never get the parts apart. Be careful it leaves a white residue if you use too much. A dab will do you.
>>
Boy am I glad I bought it when I did! It's sold out everywhere!
>>
>>2382075
Stratasys can print aluminum.
>>
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Taking a break from my Hellraiser cube to go back to my my real destiny. Modeling a 3.5 inch floppy disk to be entirely printable. FreeCAD isn't bad. I like it more than my efforts with Fusion360, but I'm new at modeling.
>>
>>2382119
I don't really know the workflow of FC, but a lot of the time when I am reverse-engineering something in SW I just start with the basic outer dimensions and start taking chunks out of it until I have all the features covered. Maybe that will help you?
>>
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>>2382127
That's basically what I'm doing with the sketch of the outside dimensions, using my calipers. Issue now is that half circle is detached from the rest of the sketch, not sure why.
>>
>>2382132
I figured it out by creating a constraint between the points. Still moves around like crazy, but that should be fixed when the full sketch is connected.
>>
>>2381759
that was what i (>>2381606) was talking about, but you're still sanding and post finishing the shit out of it.
anon wanted glass clear PLA prints, and that shit isn't happening on any stock machine without you spending hours sanding and polishing.
>>
shieeeeet i ran out of filament mid print, what happens if i pause a print for 2 days before new fillament arrives?
>>
>>2382161
2 days? No chance. Why don't you have some more as backup already?
>>
>>2382165
i don't print a lot so i don't keep filament in stock because it would just suck in water
what if i keep the heatbed on? why don't you think it will work? there are people who do 10 day prints
>>
>>2382161
Best case, you heat the fuck out of your house and it works. Worst case, either the print peels off or some components overheat due to being idle for two days.
>>
>>2382119
nigga it's a square and a circle, you can model that in 10 seconds
>>
>>2382167
If you keep the bed on you might get away with it
>>
>>2382161
Technically nothing
In reality, a power failure.
Not like you have an option at this point.
>>
wat do with empty spools?
toss?
>>
>>2381411
>KVP (f)agate orange
>$60/kg on amazon.
>$30+shipping on their site.
What in the fuck is this? Grass fed, organic, free range ABS?
>>
hi
my printhead is frogleaping the xy move to center after homing
however prints turn out well, no ripples or whatever one could expect from a mechanical fault, anyone got an idea how to pinpoint the problem ?
>>
>>2382310
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyZ1g2M9qI
>>
>>2382180
shhh its a lot funnier watching him struggle with freecad to draw something that would take 10 minutes in tinkercad
>>
got a 3d Printer last week so im dialing in callibrations
>>
>>2382180
You do understand that there's a little more geometry for those and that almost all of it serves a purpose, right? External and internal.
If this is the same autist he's not trying to 3d print a meme save icon, he's trying to print a functioning floppy into which to put the magnetic strip and the slidy thingy.
>>
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>>2382415
>>2379534
after im callibrated guess what my next print is?
>>
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>>2382180
>>2382419
>>2382119

i fucking cant in here fuck 4chan seriously
>>
>>2382423
why are you so mad right now?
>>
>>2382441
2/10
how do you have grey hairs at 30?
>>
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>>2382423
>missing the point this hard.
If you can't handle the autism get out of the ball pit.
He wants to model it himself. Yes, the more practical thing to do is to go on grabcad and find a model to print. By that same logic the easiest thing would be to just buy a pack of new old stock and go on with your life.
But that's not the point. He wants to learn CAD along the way and has a defined goal with a clear win condition.
I sometimes forget that a lot of the people with printers do nothing but print other people's garbage from the front page of thingiverse never bothering to use the machine they own to acquire skills or purpose built solutions. I guess that's perfectly valid too.
Pic somewhat related, kitchen drawer bracket/anchor thing broke, home depot was less than helpful in finding another one, got back home and had it modeled in less than thirty mins and printed in a few hours, revised, and printed again to install that same afternoon. 0.8 nozzles ftw.
>>
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It finally came! I'm so excited to design a new fan shroud!
>>
>>2382109
the all metal versions are terrible. Enjoy your clogging
>>
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>>2382423
>>2382436
>>2382180
Going to respond to everyone at once here. First off to the person that gave me pics of all the floppy disk models out there. I challenge you to find a working one. I'm serious, there are no fully modeled 3.5" floppy disks out there. Yes there are exteriors, mainly for game models. There are coasters and a neat SD card holder. The best model out there is by Serkan Iskender, but even his has no interior structure.

To the person saying this would be very quick if I had better skills. No doubt it would be quicker if I knew how to model. Given I've only done a few simple tinkercad models, yes freecad is a learning curve. That said even and an expert couldn't do pic related in 10 minutes. You can see all the necessary things and a lot of my time is figuring out dimensions with a caliber.

Lastly the goal is to print a working floppy disk, without the magnetic tape. When I can transplant the magnetic tape into my 3D printed floppy disk then my mission is accomplished and I will move on to making my own magnetic tape. This project is inspired by the guy making his own CPU. I want to make my own disk and drive system.
>>
>>2382495
It only clogs if you don't know how to use it. Fucking retard, you need to set your retraction lower and increase your speed and temps. Learn to 3d print you dumbfucking Jewbag. Only a Jew can be as stupid as you.
>>
>>2382513
Because what the fuck do you need it for? You still haven't answered this question in the 2 months you started bitching about this. Download freecad, buy some calipers, and a floppy disk and learn how to do basic math.
Fucking kids these days take no initiative and want everything handed to them on a gold platter, chewed up and spat down your fucking throats. Learn to think.
>>
>>2382513
Wanna know how I know you're a useless ball of fat and stink, it took me 20 seconds to find.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775903
Jesus Christ dude take some neutropics, you're obviously in desperate fucking need of them.
>>
>>2382534
By the way I'm printing with it as I'm typing this. I'm printing nylon at 450c and it's holding strong. All I did was a pid tune with pronterface, measured the nozzle, set my retraction so it merely relieved ever pressure and didn't go up the throat and it's printing beautifully.
>>
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The Blue (clear) Blur himself
>>
>>2382549
Nice resin print! Very well done!
>>
>>2382549
Sonic lookin pretty round
>>
>>2382539
That is a coaster with none of the internal protrusions, which I gave you a picture of here:
>>2382513

>>2382536
>Download freecad, buy some calipers, and a floppy disk and learn how to do basic math
I have showed you a picture of my work in FreeCAD on this here:
>>2382119
As for why, because I think a 3D printer being able to create 80's level technology is video game tier fabricator awesome.
>>
>>2382543
Not the original anon that for some unexplained and totally unreasonable reason has an issue with the semites, but I'm calling BS.
>printing nylon at 450c
Even essentium's HTN is 425C max, and that's with a 0.8mm nozzle printing fast, simple geometries.
Post pictures of part and printer.
The printer at work doesn't count.
>>
>>2382549
Is SLA still a skin irritating-brittle parts clusterfuck?
I've been wanting to get into fucking around with air lately and I know that FDM won't cut it. But I also don't want to lose half a room just to print and post process resin stuff.
>>
>>2382513
jesus this guy is fucking stupid

like deadass fucking asperger fucking cant read the room and fixated in an old piece of technology that literally like virtually no one in the world gives a shit about
>>
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>>2382423
>/diy/ - Do It Yourself
>>
>>2382589
It's ok anon. Cool your jets. You go print your articulated dragons, bag clips, baby yodas or whatever the meme of the week on reddit currently is.
You probably couldn't print a working floppy disk if you tried. Go on. Prove me wrong.
>>
>>2382312
Keene personally delivers it himself, and jerks you off before he leaves. It's kinda gay, but you definitely get what you pay for.
>>
>>2382595
thats the neat part, i dont have to try i have floppy disks laying around somewhere
>>
>>2382420
>>
>>2382423
Go ahead, download someone else's CAD model. Don't come crying to us when the dimensions are off because the person who made it just went by memory to get it looking "about right".
>>
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>>2382598
>implying I believe you.
I've got one right here that I use as a coaster. There's a surprising amount of systems still operating on these stupid things, unfortunately.
We still have a client who's palletizer can only be programmed via these stupid things in VAL-III (adept, now omron), for which we wrote a custom ide in notepad++. Their crib inventory guy buys these things wherever he can find them and unless they're new old stock from Germany/Spain they're almost guaranteed to have turned into dogshit.
Although that's still missing the point as to why one would model one. Its a task with endgoal being meaningless relative to what is learned undertaking the project.
>>
>>2382598
You have a 3d printer but no calipers? They're like $4 on Amazon. What the hell is wrong with you?
>>
>>2382616
Just replace the drives with sd emulators at this point. The amount of stupidity in today's thread is unbearable.
>>
>>2382634
I mean shit we have some at work that are literally wifi mounted where we just load the image into the things ram and it just works.
>>
>>2382513
i dunno why people got so pissy at you, you've got a pretty chill project going and I like seeing your status updates

>>2382423
go back then
>>
>>2382634
I dont' disagree, it's been brought up in the once or twice a year we roll by. But we don't own the system, only work on the machine, and we charge by the hour. If the owner doesn't want to fuck with it, why should we?
>>
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If you own a 3D printer, you should be familiar with the basics of 3D modeling. When a part breaks in your house, you should be able to copy its design and print a replacement. This skill is what separates the hobbyist who prints Thingiverse toys and the engineer who actually solves problems. So start a shitty project on Sketchup or whatever. Design a phone stand. Replace the broken battery cover on that remote. Make a goddamn floppy disc. Stop shitposting and make something.
>>
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Diskettes. 3 1/2" disketes maybe be floppies, but they're not floppy are they? Why not just call them diskettes?
>>
New thread

>>2382695
>>
>>2382585
It can be pretty durable if you mix some abs like resin into your other resin at a ratio of like 1:10 by weight. But yes it can be very time, space, and cash consuming. I had to buy 5 gallons of isopropanol and I’ve gone through boxes of surgical gloves. The print quality is awesome though. Oh and you need to be somewhere careful with your resin waste from prints. I’ve been washing all of mine in a sink in my basement and it will probably turn my house into an environmental disaster site in 50 years
>>
>>2382654
Because it'll make your job easier.
>>
Posting in doomed thread...
>>
>pressed 'new project' in Cura
>overrode two years of tuning settings
Fuck.
Now it's printing differently and I don't know what it is.
>>
>>2382803
rip, once you figure out your stuff export your settings to avoid this in future. If you're extra paranoid screenshot every screen of settings too.
>>
>>2382808
Fuck yes, you can just import the profile from existing gcode
Hell yes
>>
>>2382822
Glad you found a solution, I wouldn't have thought of that honestly. Better remember to hold on to some old gcode files just incase then
>>
>>2380263
>To make simple stuff, it's fine
>for more complex things, you'll have to go with something else
like openscad?
>>
>>2383616
Try Fusion 360. Ignore the inevitable shitposters. It's a good tool.
>>
>>2380263
It fucks simple things too. FreeCAD is truly the worst piece of shit software I've had the displeasure of using.
>>
>>2383639
>need to cad up a pcb mount/standoff/bracket
>can do it on my 7 year old thinkpad running linux without having to run upstairs to my desktop.
It has its place.
>>
>>2383788
>add some basic constraints to find a midpoint
>program crashes and/or buggy behaviour
I couldn't even create the most basic of mounting trays last time I tried. Not because of me, but because of it.
>>
>>2382069
don't do it. they take proprietary spools.
1.3kg of third-party ABS along with the DRM chip to make it work with the spool is $185.
the factory cartridges have 0.87kg of ABS filament and cost $300



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