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I have an attached garage that is fully insulated. What is the best way to heat it during winter? I use it for storage, and have some temp sensitive things like plants, canned food, produce, paint, etc. I dont want it to fall below 50F.
Right now its getting close to 50F with mid 20's outside. I normally keep an interior door open and let the hot air get in there. With this sits at about 55F.
Should I extend an air vent into the garage, or install a dedicated heater? One of the walls is shared with the laundry room that has an electric dryer, and a 240 line. How efficient are electric heater in pic related? Or is gas the better way to go?
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Resistance electric heaters are 100% efficient, literally. No waste.

That doesnt mean they're particularly cheap. A mini split with a heater function may be a good option if you dont live in an area that gets super cold. My HVAC heat pump for instance maintains 95%+ efficiency until single digit temps (and I live in the southeast so days that cold are very rare). I think the mini will probably have backup electric coils too.

Propane and gas are options but should be vented.

I'd consider a mini split as it would be very nice in summer as well, but a 220 heater would be an acceptable stopgap.
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>>2259336
Most efficient way would be via your central air system, if you have one.

Is this something you did your self? Most garages that are already insulated should have had ductwork installed.

Options are really bound by the square footage of what you are trying to heat.
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>>2259336
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>>2259365
The garage is about 180sq feet. There is no ductwork going into it. My air vents are blowing weak. I need to get an HVAC guy to look at them, I think the blower is undersize for the house.
Not sure what going to be better, and less expensive.
Running a gas line into the garage and installing an overhead heater
Running ductwork into the garage, and fixing my flow problem
Or installing a 240 volt electric heater
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>>2259524

If you think any HVAC components are undersized I sure wouldn't add any more square footage.
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>>2259524
>My air vents are blowing weak
if you have an unfinished basement, check and adjust any dampers you find
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>>2259336
>I normally keep an interior door open and let the hot air get in there. With this sits at about 55F.
how well insulated. is the garage door an issue?
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>>2259534
That's why I want separate heater.
>>2259536
Drywalled, but not finished. All vents are closed, and tapped off
>>2259537
Drywalled, but unfinished. Door is insulated. There are some gaps around windows that could use a bit of sealent
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>>2259588
>Drywalled, but not finished. All vents are closed, and tapped off
ok, I said dampers not vents. google it. and you should have your basement vents all open, why the hell would you close them? heat travels up.
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>>2259590
Yes, I have those. The ones leading to the vents in the basement are all closed. I closed them to attempt to increase pressure in other rooms. Is that wrong?
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>>2259595
Grab a roll of aluminum tape and start checking every inch of duct work you can access for leaks. It doesn't take much to lose pressure.
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>>2259336
first of all it is super duper mega illegal against code to run a duct from your forced air system to a garage due to idiots that killed their entire families running a car in the garage and the Co2 getting into the house via the duct.

next I had a electric blower furnace in my 500 sq.ft. detached garage.
worked great, kept the garage nice and warm.
It only cost about $400 to $700 a month on the power bill... so I used it like never. (yes, my garage is insulated, still had huge bills)

a "open combustion heater" in your garage may void your home owners insurance.
I was going to replace the electric furnace with a Modine Unit Heater, but my insurance guy said 'no way' that basically any kind of heater with a flame will void your home owners insurance.

there's still hope, apparently a "sealed combustion heater" is legal, I'm planning on getting a Toyotomi LASER kerosene heater from Houseneeds(dot)com
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>>2259662
oh right, stupid laws. forgot about those.
what watt rating was your electric heater?
a 3kw one will cost me about $0.40 an hour
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>>2259662
>super duper mega illegal against code to run a duct from your forced air system to a garage

If OP is feeling spicy, there's no reason he couldn't put an air/liquid heat exchanger in the central ductwork, and then another one in the garage. Couple the two with a water loop. Cost of the exchangers may be prohibitive when compared to just using a mini split heat pump, though.
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>>2259669
>what watt rating was your electric heater?
I honestly can't remember, it was a Goodman unit from the early 90's that I sold on craigslist for a hundred bucks to let someone else enjoy stupid high power bills

>>2259696
yeah, OP would probably be better off just doing a mini split
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>>2259336
Just get a propane salamander or a kerosene heater. Just make sure to have a carbon monoxide detector or two in your garage.
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I got an HVAC guy coming out on Monday for a complete quote, and I got my electrician buddy who will wire in an electric heater if I want one. Copper is super expensive now, at least $300 in material + $500 or so for a heater.
Looks like the number to beat is about $1,000. We'll see how much the gas man wants. Probably gonna be a lot more since they'll need to install a chimney, and most likely will not work with my parts and only sell me their upcharged prices.
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>>2259942
> most likely will not work with my parts and only sell me their upcharged prices

They buy from parts suppliers just like you and no they probably wouldn't use what you have on hand. Any work a pro would do he'd honor if there was a problem and they aren't going to use spare parts you have laying around.

You're biggest point of loss is the garage door, if that isn't insulated you're wasting your time and money.
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>>2259972
my dad works for mcmcaster carr and we have a family discount which is amazing. and i want to buy a used heater on CL. of course no one will take the risk to install.
garage door is insulated, i already posted that



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