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Last thread: >>2252560

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Prusa Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
>>2257134

My 20mm cube was 20.19mm according to the calipers I bought today from home depot.
>>
>>2257205
So my esteps number needs to be 99% of what is in there. Explains why it seemed spot on when I measured the extrusion length.
>>
>>2257208
Flow rate, Check your flow rate.
>https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#flow
>>
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I am proud of myself, managed to modify a existing 3d model on thingiverse so I can add a ws2812 rgb ring to my webcam.

It stuck to my bed I fucked it up when trying to scrape it off.

I am using the stock rough texture bed, would glue help remove it or what can I do to make it easier to remove?
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjFZiRV01ns
>>
I have a CR-10 that has what I assume is a warped bed. I've gone around and made sure all bolts are tight, but have a question - the bed rollers on the Y axis, should those nuts on the top side be tight? The first one I checked was loose, so I'm not sure if I'm supposed to tighten them or not, and whether or not that will help with the 'bump' I'm seeing in the middle of the bed.
I've removed the glass bed, installed a magnetic bed (Creality branded), which certainly works better than the glass bed, but then I run into the same weird bump in the middle of the bed.
I plan to print a better z-limit switch bracket, as the factory one will not go low enough for the magnetic bed to work properly. Only issue being that I have a BIQU B1 that's also got issues stemming from a failed PETG print that destroyed the entire hotend assembly... and now I'm trying to comprehend how to get the eccentric nuts setup properly on the new hotend I installed - I'm starting to suspect that the bolts got bent when the catastrophic failure occurred.
Maybe I should just get yet another printer and fix these two with that? I've gone through the entire CR-10, had to replace the mobo due to a dead driver. Ended up customizing my own Marlin 2.x firmware, since the machine is technically a V3 but now running a V2 bowden extruder. That was.... fun. At least now I know how to customize the firmware for any printer I own in the future...
>>
What's the best US source for filament and are there any big box stores that sell filament?
>>
>>2257208
No, your e steps are determined by your extrusion length, absolutely nothing else.
>>
I saw this

eSun ePLA-ST Super Tough

Any opinions on this? It doesnt seem to be better for mechanic parts. But it has better impact? What exactly is better to make with this?
>>
>>2257315
A part that requires toughness, as simple as that.
>>
>>2257316
but what the fuck is notch impact? So this filament bends more easily, while pla, the regular can withstand more force, but once it does so it simply snaps (or often explodes as some people remark)

This one will bend, but not absorb much force, and it will not explode so easily. So its almost a flexible material? Something not made for force, but with more agility in mind?
>>
>>2257317
It's tough. Please google the definition of toughness.
Glass is not tough but it is rigid and strong. Steel is tough but also rigid and strong.
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>>2257320
>toughness
I googled it and it seems/feels like this material may be better general use material. Though it obviously is not the bulk of their products. Probably just a test case. But PLA does have this "if it sits on a shelf for a while it will just randomly explode lol" kind of thing. It breaks easily. Its not exactly the best to use...to handle. Like an object for your hand. The specs it shows, tells me that its still a little bit TOO flexible. If it was like 50% less flexible it would be just ideal.
>>
Is the CR6 SE worth £229 if a Ender 3 v2 is £189?
Autoleveling bed seems handy
>>
>>2257376
No, just buy a Prusa mini.
>>
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>>2257378
>£368 for this
you having a giraffe?
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>>2257379
>£368 for this
Yes, once you go Prusa you can never go back.
>>
>>2257380
Does the arm not wobble and fuck up prints? I don't see how that thing can be nearly 200 quid better
I don't know enough to tell if I'm being baited but I feel like I am
>>
>>2257386
There's almost no forces acting on the arm pushing it forwards or backwards. It is also quite rigid. Therefore it does not wobble.
>>
>>2257380
>Yes, once you go Prusa you can never go back.
I totally believe that, everyone who has a Prusa seems to love it, but I also am the living embodiement of the "let me guess, you need more" meme. My Ender3 has had 0 issues since I have gotten it and the only maintenance I had to do so far was replace the nozzle twice due to abrasion. I only had to level my bed like 3 times since I got it and the prints are all perfectly fine. I just can't imagine what the prusa can offer me that I would take advantage of. I heard that the prusas are great due to low maintanance, but it's not like there can be much less maintenance than I already have to do.
>>
>>2257390
It must be fucking tiny then
Its really hard to see what makes it worth nearly double the price of an ender 3 v2
>>
>>2257392
See if a local school or university has some available for public use. After you use it for a bit you start to realize why it costs twice as much as an ender and why that price is more than competitive.
>>
>>2257394
I have single digit braincells and don't like going outside. I was looking for a silly hobby to take up time
>>
>>2257395
thats exactly why you need the prusa

see son, no two things are really ever made alike, and cheap chink shit usually comes with lots of QC issues. People who are smart or /diy/ minded can handle QC issues, we don't need to post on a forum such simple questions on how to fix something lol.

People without intellect do stand to learn from taking on a struggle, but most of you retarded lot dont care to learn how to solve problems and just want to pretend you're in startrek or some shit. And just because I think you should doesnt mean you will ever actually have the will to learn. ergo, buy a prusa idiot
>>
>>2257413
I'm mentally ill not retarded. If I was scared of tinkering I wouldn't be thinking of buying a 3D printer
>>
>>2257232
Thanks I'll look at this.
>>2257314
I was going by this pic from the calibration cube on thingiverse.
>>
>>2257003
>https://lmgtfy.app/?q=formfutura+volcano+PLA
>High heat resistance of ≥ 95° C AFTER ANNEALING
It's dogshit. Just buy GreenTec Pro or BigRep HI-TEMP. They print better than PLA and have high temp resistance, and you don't need an enclosure either.
>>
>>2257429
It's wrong.

All of your steps, x, y, z and extruder need to correspond to reality. If you tell your machine to move +10 mm x it has to move +10 mm x, not any less or any more.

Same with the extruder, if you tell it to move +100 mm of material it needs to move +100 mm of material, not any more or any less.
>>
>>2257435
That's exactly what that's doing. It's adjusting e-steps so that observed dimension is equal to expected dimension aka how much it should actually move.
>>
>>2257444
But you are trying to do it incorrectly, by measuring a print, and not just any print, a tiny print where non-percentage dimension errors make a huge difference. Literally just take a ruler and manually jog an axis a given distance and then measure it and you will get the correct measurement.

20x20x20 test cubes are one of the best example of what's wrong with this hobby. People who don't understand what they're doing creating solutions that become viral and are used by others who likewise know nothing about what they're trying to accomplish.
>>
>>2257452
>Literally just take a ruler and manually jog an axis a given distance and then measure it and you will get the correct measurement.

I did that, but it is only off by 1%. Hard to get that accuracy with a ruler. By printing out the cube and using calibers it gives me better measurement accuracy.
>>
>>2257453
>Hard to get that accuracy with a ruler.
As they always say, cut twice, measure once.
>>
>>2257453
>By printing out the cube and using calibers it gives me better measurement accuracy.
It simply does not. You do not understand how accuracy and precision work with 3D printers. If you print a 20mm object and adjust all of your steps according to its measurements they will be way off when you print a 200mm object. Do not adjust steps by measuring a printed part, never ever do that. Always adjust your steps based on actual axis movement.

If you want your cube to measure 20mm you should much rather in your slicer adjust the xy size compensation setting, which in effect changes the size of parts by moving surfaces inwards or outwards but does not change for example hole spacing. But honestly this is not really necessary.
>>
>>2257472
>Always adjust your steps based on actual axis movement.
As I said I did that and the printed part was 101% of expected. Just lowered my esteps from 93 to 92.07. Testing now. This is small amount, so I don't see it making larger prints off as much as you say. But okay when it does I'll adjust it more. If I can go from 99% to 99.5%+ accuracy then to me that is acceptable.
>>
>>2257487
You simply do not understand.
Let me give you an example.
The characteristic inaccuracies in 3D prints do not scale with part size. The usual inaccuracies are caused by stuff like surface deviations from the ribbed surface finish, z seams, over extrusion in some spots etc.
Lets say you print the 20x20x20 cube and due to over extrusion you measure 20.4 mm, if you now adjust your steps such that your cube measures on the next print exactly 20 mm that means that if you try to print a part with a hole spacing of 200 mm whose holes have to accurately align with another parts holes you end up with a hole spacing of 20 / 20.4 * 200 = 196 mm ie. a spacing that is 4 mm too short! which is totally unacceptable for most uses.

There is a reason why manufacturers often try to minimize consumer customizability other than in places where it is absolutely necessary or in cases where they simply don't give two fucks about if their customer has success using their product like in the case of the Chinese.
>>
>>2257494
I understand what you are saying and I'll watch out for that when I print bigger parts. I guess the thing I don't get is the ruler method agreed with the measurement method. 99% is very close. If I used calibers and got the same number you are saying the ruler method is wrong? I'll check it. I'll extrude an exact amount and I bet it will be exact because I adjusted it with the cube. But hey I'm willing to be wrong. I didn't own calibers until yesterday. So I used a wooden ruler for the extrusion test last week.
>>
>>2257499
Oh if you're only talking about the extrusion steps then it doesn't have as catastrophic of an effect if you go and mess with it.
Though I would still recommend you to set your steps based on simple observations of filament movement and then set an extrusion multiplier by studying print results.
>>
>>2257508
After my esteps adjustment I printed this clip. 34.97mm. 35mm expected. Perfectly in line. I'm making a bigger articulated lizard next so I'll see.
>>
>>2257392
>>2257390
I have no idea why in hell people keep passing around the
>b-but muh cantilever arm!!!!
meme. It's not 3D printed, it's not aluminum, it's not 2 meters long, and it's not a CNC, so the deflection will be absolutely negligible.

But guess what. Even if there IS deflection, it's going to be consistent and repeatable, because again, there's next to no force acting on it, so if it bent, it would do so the exact same distance every time, so the Z-compensation can adjust the fraction of a millimeters it might bend for no difference in end result.
>>
>>2257510
I just did the ruler extrusion test. Again came very close on my sharpie markings. This test is awkward to me because it is hard to get it exactly.
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>>2257379
That printer is really cute.
>>
>>2257527
Now time for the lizard.

>>2257531
My lizard is going to be cute!
>>
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I'm trying to use my adjustable dumbbells' weights on my barbell. Does this look plausible with PETG? Each would hold 10lb ideally. How thick would you go on the walls?
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New here, printing an alignment cube.
The right corner is curved. Is that caused by a substantial leveling issue?
>>
>>2257183
> no editions
> should be PrusaXL Edition
>>
>>2257661
not an expert but I would guess it's not cooling evenly, cooler air drafts coming in in that direction
>>
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>>2257673
I can see that, that's the open part of the table. So that's where the tent comes into play?
>>
>>2257604
go one step further and print a cute printer:
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/67178-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-gift-card
>>
>>2257675
drafts are only an issue for ABS/ASA/nylon/PC. If thats a PLA cube then I'd bet your bed isn't level/bad z offset, or bed too cool.
>>
>>2257692
Thanks, it's PLA.
Bed is at 70 degrees, about to see how bad the X,Y,Z is
>>
Anyone know which of the chinkshit BLTouches are worth it?

>>2257692
>>2257702
Actually, it could be too hot. Try printing at 50.
>>
>>2257237
Wait until cold
>>
Yes it printed pretty good!
Going to give it as a gift.
>>
>>2257739
Even cold I still can't get the fucker off, I ordered a double sided pei sheet, and i will probably buy a glass bed for the pei sheet to sit on.
>>
>>2257715
why not just use the existing z switch and mount it on your hot end?
>>
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>>2257715
>Too hot
I need to take a step back and start at square one, getting shit to stick
>>
>>2257749
Ahhhh she's got me!
>>
>>2257761
For my lizard I have a glass bed and used a glue stick. I was sweating balls trying to get that thing off. Afraid I was going to break my first 3hr print. My last smaller prints didn't need a glue stick for adhesion. The glue stick did give a nice smooth bottom. Compare to a clip I printer earlier without a glue stick.
>>
>>2257183
I'm making a new computer case project that fits a mechanical keyboard. I wanted to make a retro style computer case inspired by home computers of the 80's. This will let you fit a Mister, Raspberry Pi, or any other SBC. Printing it right now. It is in 3 parts and gets screwed together once fully assembled. The back lets you use custom i/o plates.
>>
>>2257806
>He watches the 8-bit guy

https://youtu.be/hu3QzMsKb9U
>>
>>2257830
There is nothing wrong with the 8bit guy. He might not be everyone's cup of tea, but I like his content.
>>
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>>2257859
>There is nothing wrong with the 8bit guy.
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>>2257885
Made me laugh.
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>>2257885
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>>2257938
They were joking, but you come off as try hard.
>>
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>>2257939
just got excited
>>
Hello anons. 3d printing absolute new fag here. I was planning to buy a 3d printer for christmas, mainly to print housings and parts for my project, and some prusa i3 mk3s clone kits from chink websites ( mainly aliexpress) seem like a good deal ( around 450 $). Do any of you have experience with buying prusas off of aliexpress?
>>
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Any recommendations for sanding in small crevices in PLA like this? It's about 5mm. I already have a steel brush for a rotary that fits but it doesn't work well even when trying it with cutting compound. The top surfaces I used body filler and sanded that which is way easier.

I printed some small sticks to fit in and wrap sandpaper on but if chrews through it very quick since it's hard and not more pliable like cork blocks.

Is there any kind of micro power sander I could use?
>>
>time to buy a new hardened nozzle for my i3 clone
>every nozzle that's not spendy as fuck can't even get the hole size right
Are there any decent nozzles that aren't 40 bucks?
>>
Just bought a biqu b1. It arrives in 4 days. Wish me luck guise
>>
>>2258039
Does they "natural" or by design? 5 mm it's a lot. PLA while sanding and especially power drilling it starts to stick like crazy. So you need to do it slow and steady. First take some rough sandpaper or file and then fine one. With fine one you should be gentle and accurate. Still I suggest to do print right, you probably save more time redoing the print, than trying to fix shitty one. If you inclined fixing it, take some power tool and start removing it gradually. Or just file it with rough file. And yes, it will suck.
>>
>>2258018
>3d printing absolute new fag here
>450 $
Any reason you're not just getting the prusa mini (if you want something that "just werks" with actual guides and support) or ender3v2 (if you want something everyone has hacked on)?
>>
>>2257494
How do YOU calibrate your printer?
>>
Is it possible to convert a 3D printer (prusa mini or ender 3) to a engraving mill? I'd like to have a weak mill to carve circuit boards but I lack the space and cash for buying both
>>
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>>2258132
The prusa mini has a printing volume that is a bit too small for my projects. On the other hand the ender3v2 sounds very good for the price. Are there any catches? How can it cost less and come pre assembled? Also id prefer the noise level to be accetable and ive seen the prusa i3 mk3s fares very well in terms of noise.
>>
>>2258039
pla's glass transition temp is like 60c, so you cant get it hot while sanding otherwise it becomes sillyputty and smears. Keep this in mind and you will find success, wet sanding 40 grit is a chad move ;)
>>
>>2258137
Not that anon, But I calibrate by:
-measuring the position of the axis with calipers, like on the Y axis measuring from the smooth rod to the motor.
-Zero the calipers, & double check the measurement is zero
-move axis as far as I can and still be able to measure it with calipers
-compair moved theoretical distance with measured distance

That anon is right about calibrating with a 20mm cube, any errors due to extrusion, shrinkage, and texture will increase 10 fold when moving 200mm.
However you could print a couple of thin lines and measure lines center to center (first edge to first edge) with a depth gage and get good measurements of the actual movement.
>>
>>2258202
>How can it cost less and come pre assembled
Quality and QC. Cheaper components, lower standards, and assembled by probably almost literal slave labor.
>>
Has anyone used MSLA for lead casting? I read in some datasheet that standard resins are stable up to 3-400 C, and lead melts around 350. So I was thinking if I had a mold with some water cooling ducts engineered in, I could melt my lead, pour it, start pumping water through it, maintain the temps around 200-250.
>>
My ender 3 v2 glass bed is warped. What should I replace it with?
>>
>>2258277
PEI magnetic sheet.
>>
>>2258286
Is that really better than a glass bed? And can I just put it where the glass bed used to be?
>>
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why does my first layer turn out like this? ender 3 v2 and using ultamaker cura as slicer.
>>
>>2258327
over-extrusion or nozzle too close to the plate
>>
>>2258335
alright i gotta check out over extrusion because i just leveld my bed yesterday with the little one layer squares in the corners and centers yesterday and they were perfectly smooth when i was done with it
>>
IT JUST KEEPS FUCKING STRINGING AND MY SEAMS ARE ALL RETARDED
>>
Sorry boys but the fa/tg/uys I was going to ask this question of exploded with spaghetti.
Ender3v2 for a cheap retard? Making storage boxes and workshop gear.
>>
>>2258327
turn on monotonic infill
>>
>>2258362
It's the latest model of a very popular and cheap first time printer so yeah, go for it. You can find a ton of upgrades to print for it on Thingiverse, as well as many third party accessories and extensions.
If you want to be hobo-tier cheap, look for older models but you gonna need to upgrade and tweak it. Old Ender 3's sometimes go on sale for as low as $100.
>>
>>2258202
- barely any customer service
- cooling is kinda shit, I had to print an upgrade
- no auto bed leveling
- no spring steel bed (though the coated glass bed isnt too bad)
- bed leveling adjustment is horrible, need spring upgrade like all enders
- no filament sensor
- hotend fan is fucking loud
- prusa mini *may* eventually have remote control since it has builtin ethernet
>>
>>2258375
that said if you just want to print basic PLa and are willing to tweak things and level bed manually, e3v2 isn't a bad choice at all >>2258369
>>
>>2258381
I got a 3 pro and a genuine BLTouch, no issues.

>>2258202
There's an update, Ender 3 S1 coming you may want to look into that.
>>
I have an ender 5 pro and I want to get an ender 5 plus. Can I just swap out the motherboards and reflash the firmware so I don't have to buy a new 32 bit silent motherboard right away?
>>
>>2258118
>>2258203
The problem I am facing is a deep crevice in the design as pictured that is 5mm wide, it is hard to sand in there. I am printing some wedges to try and use that, but when I put sandpaper on PLA 'block' of some kind it disintegrates since its rubbing on two hard materials, it lasts a lot longer on cork, but I dont have cork wedges, sand the top surface is no problem, so wish I had some kind of small slow power tool with actual sander not a steel wire brush or some grinding stone I could run though it.
>>
>>2258366
thanks anon i’ll try that next print
>>
What material should I get something printed in if I need it to not necessarily be flexible but have just enough give to pop a ball into a socket
I can almost get it to work on my resin printer but it's just too rigid and brittle
>>
>>2258426
ABS
>>
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Rogue piece of plastic ate my Gates belt... I'm so sad now.... I hope they're cheap.
>>
>>2258313
I don't have one, my glass bed is still working great. The magnetic PEI sheet would replace the shitty bed that came with my ender 3 pro, worst case you can just sit it on your glass bed with clips and adjust your z height.
>>
>>2258394
>Ender 3 S1
huh didnt know this, if the all3dp article is true thats probably worth waiting for.

>direct extruder
>dual z axis
>magnetic build plate
>auto bed leveling
>filament sensor
>breakout board for all the stuff around the extruder
Watch out Josef you'll get your lunch eaten--
>anemic blower STILL THERE
>shitty bed levelling springs STILL THERE
WHY
>>
>>2257655
I know you probably don't want to hear this, but just buy some plates. I know it's expensive and I know you probably don't feel like dishing out them dollars for that but it's a really once in a lifetime investment and you can re-sell them no problem with great value. With the print you will have to calibrate the same weight on each side and you will always have to thing about those plastic holders not breaking. The overall experience will be bad
>>
>>2258437
Does that go around any toothed gear? If it's only running on that idler, it'll probably be good enough.
>>
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>>2258606
Just the plastic idler. Here's my updated picture of my $100 ender 6.
>>
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Give me a cool, non-cringe anime figure I can print to try out my new elegoo Saturn!
Complex figures appreciated.
>>
>>2258667
I dont even know where to pirate stls much less recommend you one :(
>>
>>2258671
>Pirating stls
Why is this so hard? Why aren't there any websites dedicated exclusively to STL reupload?
>>
>>2258676
because 3d printing is still to much of a niche hobby, there's still not enough people with 3D printers to sustain a piracy site (that usually runs on ads)
>>
>>2258691
why cant TPB just add a stl / 3mf category? dont need a new site
though I dont know if anyone will seed for a long time
>>
>>2258676
I'm really butthurt.
I need my swastika cookie cutter and /pol/ memes.
Now I'm going to have to make all the files and a repository website.
>>
>>2258676
I bought one off taobao for like
>>
>>2258709
It's 404-ed :(
>>
>>2257183
Anybody tried printing boobs in TPU with their printer?
>>
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>>2258667
print an army of tachikomas
>>
>>2258164
You can have a look at the mill tool from e3d for their tool changer.
>>
>>2258259
You would need a special resin for that. High temp resins have a degration temperature of around 280c some a bit higher.
>>
>>2258694
they do, it's called physibles but you're better off buying packs off etsy that are illegal resold
creators deserve it desu, esp those with month-exclusive patreon models
>>
>>2258811
>>2258694
>>2258712

is physibles the only place these files are shared openly/freely? I know the 3d printed fun community used LBRY way back as well; not sure how that panned out.
>>
>>2258811
How exactly do they "deserve it"?
>>
>>2258870
I get a 404 on that https://thepiratebay.org/browse/605
>>
>>2258712
Show me how
>>
>>2257183
prusa i3 or ender pro?
>>
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I 3D printed a pretty complex part for one of my machines.
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>>2258604
this is the truth I didn't want to accept. ta anon
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>>2258994
What does this machine do anon?
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>>2257655
>>2258998
anon you actually can make this work, its feasible but you must wholly optimize the design to remove all loads from layer lines and instead onto the structure itself.

print it out of three pieces, the two sides would be PC, nylon, or ABS, printed flat for max strength. The middle will be a thicc TPU cradle (also printed flat with 100% perimeters) that hangs off the centers, there is a million ways to design a hammock but with the sides printed flat they will be extremely strong for this application. As long as the TPU part and its loops/anchors are thick enough, it will literally never break, maybe after 5 years I shit you not.
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>>2259001
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>>2258974
Seems to me the 3 main questions you should ask yourself:
>Can I afford it?
Prusa is a higher quality machine, but costs more
>Am I mechanically Inclined?
Do you need Prusa to hold yer hand with good support?
>Why do I want a printer?
Do you just want to print, or are you interested in the tech?

Me, I'm frugal, intrested in the tech and like to figure things out.
If I bought one, I'd probably buy a <not prusa> but wish I had a Prusa. (I built a reprap)
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>>2258994
Nice

>>2259001
It feeds parts.
It vibrates the parts up the ramp and drops ones that aren't oriented correctly back into the hopper. At least thats how the one I saw for screws worked.
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>>2259022
So how do you fill the jackets with lead. A machine? Or are you making AP with tungsten penetrators?
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>>2258929
I searched for character name in Chinese and STL and found the expensive model. Was like $2. They provided a baidou cloud link I think, taobao is easy to sign up to, but baidou is hard, normally need a mobile phone number in China but there was an indirect route which finally worked. I forgot how desu.
>>
been 3d printing for a while and never really paid attention to prusa. Can an ender 3 be upgraded to print better than a mk3s? I have a pretty heavily upgraded ender 3 that I'm quite satisfied with the print quality but have been curious of the prusas. I know they are known to be reliable and just work, but I've never really had issues with my ender 3, just curious from a pure print quality perspective.
>>
why would anyone buy a prusa XL when the voron already exists?
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>>2259055
Nobody else can give commercial support for toolchanger printers? Does Voron even have a toolchanger / dualhead?

>>2258811
>physibles
>full of gun parts and nothing else
but i just want to print knick knacks
>buying packs off etsy that are illegal resold
I'm listening anon, please elaborate
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>>2259046
>Can an ender 3 be upgraded to print better than a mk3s?
semi-easily
>just curious from a pure print quality perspective
assuming your stock ender 3 doesn't have z bind or bad bowden couplers, printing PLA slow enough will easily match a prusa in quality. Put a direct extruder and a 5050 on your ender 3 and suddenly its 90% there. even then most people wont even notice issues from the single z screw though the mainboard often becomes the main bottleneck.
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>>2259062
great to hear, thanks!

My z-lead screw seems to be pretty consistent but I have been thinking about trying this belted z-drive conversion with linear rails on the z-axis(feel like the rollers on the x and y are just fine so far):

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4243512

Although it might be overengineered overkill for diminishing returns.

Have been pretty satisfied with the bowden setup with Capricorn tubing, and the herome gen5 duct with dual 5015s is fantastic. I haven't looked into direct drive yet since I mostly print PLA and wouldn't the extra weight cause ringing or require you to slow your prints down?
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I want to ask for a 3d printer for christmas, seems like a good gift since I'm so weird to shop for

Ender 5 pro, yay or nay?
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trying to buy a couple prusa minis but the store keeps crashing when I confirm order.

Could you bastards stop DDoSing the site pre-ordering your XLs?
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>>2259087
Ender 3 v2 is a much better printer. The ender 5 is just junk.
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>>2259024
I can afford a prusa, but it seems like a HUGE price difference with not too much of an actual product difference.

I'm willing to learn and go all in mechanical and maintain an Ender.
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>>2259111
Ender 3 v2 or Ender 3 pro?
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>>2259135
v2 is a hell of a lot quieter and it's, in my experience, the same or better. I had both but I had some issues with the pro so I eventually upgraded to the v2 and I'm happy I did.
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>>2259152
I just took the leap and bought an ender 3 v2, hope it's worth it
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>>2259153
I think it's worth it friend. Hope it's good to you too.
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>>2259097
anyone preordering prusaxl did it within 5 hours of announcement, not their fault.

what do you need several prusa mini for? a farm? the out of marbles guy dumped his 40+ minis from his farm and went back to mk3s, anyone heard why?
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>>2259170
Out of marbles guy?
>>
Ima buy a Fokoos Odin on friday. I am stoked. Got a Rhino loicense from my company too.
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anycubic is having their black friday sale so I bought a Photon S, the Wash and Cure 2.0, and1kg of plant based resin. I've been printing for years with my Creality Cr-10s for years but thats fdm.
How different will it be?
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>>2258870
>>2258924
>Only 50 files
The internet is dead.
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>>2259204
your buttplug prints will be smoother
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>>2259174
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLkJIy7bIbI
go to 17:42 and there's a few sentences about it
also I meant out of darts not out of marbles, bleh
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>>2259204
You need hazmat suit and UV light for curing parts. I had idea to get one, but printer and resin is cheapest part of setup. You need fancy gloves, lots of chemical bullshit, it stinks and toxic. Parts turn out looking great thou. But I decided to much hassle. So I stick with straightforward FDM. Also resins not so tough as polymers for FDM. Thou also have it's pluses. But for me it's still no go.
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>>2259228
that dude clearly has more money than sense, the fact he was trying to farm large parts with prusa minis is probably why he switched them out lmao
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Anyone have a link to the STL for the bust in this picture?
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>>2259428
>nazi
>ender 3
lol
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>>2257183
Any of you goys have experience with injection molding? I remember a while ago one of the selling points of the sla printers was that there were some small im machines that could take printed molds for quick prototyping.
>>
What's a good backup brand for basic bitch PLA+ when esun is out of the color I need?
I've seen questionable things about hatchbox and amazon basics
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>>2259309
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRSpnO9z79E go to 21:11 he was happy with his 41 minis for a while
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>>2259204
You also need some alcohol for washing prints afterwards and proper ventilation for the entire process. Rubber gloves for handling prints, masks so you don't breathe too much of the resin/alcohol.
It should work great out of the box, but you'll want to look up recommended settings for exposure times. That will also change based on what you're printing, it can take some time to find the right settings for a specific model, but the end results can be amazing. If you're into miniatures, you can print entire bestiaries in high quality with a resin printer.
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>>2259428
Aw man. That's so pathetic I almost feel bad for whomever this printer belongs to
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Anybody have an idea of what could've happened here? This file was presliced but I upscaled 120%
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>>2259438
>>2259481
Still cooler than most printers people here have.
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>>2259500
nah, there isnt a single bigger display of autism than the nazi printer
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>>2257183
>All the info you need about 3D-printing
Not a single word about enclosures or possible side-effects of inhaling same air in non ventilated-space.

Any recommendations building one? DIY-fume hood with fan for extracting, with HEPA-whatnot filter?
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>>2259500
Nah, man. It's really not
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>>2259428
>Smoke detector above printer
Call to the based department cancelled, burn alive in a Chinese electrical fire like a man.
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>>2259428
>spinning hitler extruder
kek

>all cosmetic upgrades
>no performance upgrades
pathetic
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>>2259506
Kek, not even close.
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>>2257806
I finished printing the first prototype of my retro computer case and put in a MiSter. Unfortunately, I printed this on a wobbly table and didn't realize it until I got home from work as I thought the stable was fine before. Welp.
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>>2259673
I can fix the front by adding glue, but the next version will have stronger areas for screwing in the 3 pieces together.
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>>2258676
Telegram is where is at.
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Is it possible to compensate for hole shrinkage, without reducing size of the model?
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>>2259673
>Jazz
Based AF
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>>2259685
>Telegram is where is at.
Trying to blend in
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>>2259564
>Not a single word about enclosures
yeah most people either use a tent or put the printer in a cabinet
>or possible side-effects of inhaling same air in non ventilated-space.
maybe that's because there arent any? lol, try opening a window. if there were any VOCs just filtering the air isnt good enough, you will have to vent to fresh air no matter what if you actually want to do things right mr safety schizo
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>>2259775
Kek.
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>>2259685
are these ones where they ask you to be a faggot and socialize or you can just lurk and download stuff?
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>>2259801
Activated carbon removes VOCs, but it needs regular replacement or re-activation.
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>>2257183
okay. I am starting to cross the line between printing shit from the web and making your own complex projects. Question:

How do I integrated fasteners in your designs? Can an an ender 3 and its clones print threads for a M1 screw? If not, how do you use them?

Also is making plain bearings ok in PLA for small loads? (plastic gears in low speed)
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>>2259812
>Can an an ender 3 and its clones print threads for a M1 screw?
idk if sla can even make threads that small, most people just use undersize holes and screw right into the plastic, or a nut, or a heat staked brass insert.
>Also is making plain bearings ok in PLA for small loads? (plastic gears in low speed)
idk it really depends on everything youre trying to do anon, lots of people on youtube have mad functional gears and parts out of PLA but its ubiquitously worse than other materials let alone real bearings and gears
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>>2259673
After tightening up the belts and moving my printer to a stable surface (my computer desk), it didn't fix the print issues. However, switching back to stock Prusa Slicer settings fixed it.
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>>2259815
Thanks brah
>depends on everything
Yeah. Seems so. I am just trying to make a extruder/filament maker thing like someone posted here a couple threads ago. Lots of gears and a shaft coupling for a motor. (I do not have a stepper on hand, but I can use regular DC motors with different speed control)
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>>2259716
>Jazz
>Based AF
Your post is valid and correct. Jazz is based.

>>2259817
Pic related.

Apparently it was an issue with my stock Cura settings. I will tweak the settings later as I prefer Cura to Prusa Slicer. On the plus side, I'm not having inconsistent extrusion issues anymore.
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>>2258137
I simply do not, since it is not actually at all necessary for me, and in my opinion not necessary for almost anyone.
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Im thinking buying an Anycubic Photon just for d&d minis and figures printing
How is SLA printing? Its a pain in the ass to cure and wash the figures??
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>>2259821
From personal experience I would really recommend Prusa Slicer over Cura.
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>>2259673
>>2259817
Time to take the concrete block pill anon
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>>2258715
these are laughably easy to design.
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Free cad chads, please lend me your strength.
Is there a way to kind make those bottoms "inclined" ?
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>>2259869
I just want to tilt the bottom inward a little bit.
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>>2259869
In part design Select surface and fillet if you want rounded one, chamfer if straight. Also probably the one you need is loft.
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>>2259846
It is.
>>2258715
Even though I don't support Nazism, that 'cookie cutter' looks poorly designed. You can design one super quickly in cad. Even Tinkercad will work. You could also use a SVG image and then make it 3d if you want
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>>2259877
>>2258715
Here is a very, very, basic example of a cookie cutter. I don't recommend Tinkercad if you want to learn cad, but it works in a pinch if you want to make something in a few minutes.
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>>2259875
Ok I think I will need to redraw some stuff to use Loft. Thanks bro.
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>>2259884
Newcomer here. I got a Biqu B1 for xmas. (Ender 3 look alike with better build quality)

I have one question. When I pause a print, it usually leaves a small dollop of plastic. Is this intended behavior for these printers? If not, how can I improve this?
>Material: pla
>temp: 180
>speed: 60 mm/s
>layer: .16mm
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>>2259936
Did not mean to quote.
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>>2259936
Plastic still drips from hot nozzle, totally normal. Avoid pauses and stops while printing. If you started print DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING until it's done or you see print tuned out bad.
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>>2259955
Thanks browsky. I noticed that like a dum dum I was touching shit just to see how it was going. Pretty stupid huh
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>>2259801
mr safety schizo here, I think you missed the part:

> non ventilated-space

It means, no window to open. No AC. Ie, non ventilated-space.

>>2259808
I'll have to look into that, thank you.
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Anyone use openscad? Do you like it? Can you produce things that would otherwise need to be sculpted in fusion 360?
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>>2257183
>recommendation for filament storage are 20% humidity
>average humidity where I live: 80%
just end it
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>>2259428
We must extrude a filament for our white stls.
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>>2259973
I use it and I'm a big fan. I've never used fusion 360 or any traditional 3d modelling software for 3d printing though, but coming from a programming background openscad is way more intuitive for me.
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Something you Enderfags might like.

https://zerogdesign.github.io/index.html
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I will use 1.5mm fishing line as a filament. god help me
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Are 3d printers frustrating or are people with issues just more vocal? Also, do you start thinking about solving problems differently once you have a printer or do you already have an idea of what is printable before you start?

I've been on the fence of getting one for a while and have a couple diy projects that would benefit from one but not sure past that. I also don't mind tinkering and learning some but don't want it to become the primary focus of other projects. After owning a printer what do you think?
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>>2260024
people are just brainlets, if you can assemble IKEA furniture and have basic troubleshooting skills, you can use a 3D printer
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>>2259458
p-please respond
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>>2260024
>Are 3d printers frustrating or are people with issues just more vocal?
A bit of both really. It's just like any other hobby though, some days everything works very well, other days nothing seems to go the way you want it to. There's a lot of people posting about problems because that's just one of the biases of internet discussions - people with bad experiences are more likely to come and complain than people with good experiences that come to show off their stuff.
>do you start thinking about solving problems differently once you have a printer or do you already have an idea of what is printable before you start?
Once you have a printer you can get a grasp about how parts need to be designed: making it printable without supports, accounting for layer adhesion weakness, staircase effect, etc.
Before you have the printer you can only get a general idea of some of the stuff you want to do. Only once you have it and learn CAD you will see things in a new light. You can design parts to fit your custom needs, you can make spares to fix shit that breaks or gets lost, etc.
Or at least that's how I see things. I do have the mentality of "I don't need this tool but I'll buy it then I'll see what I can do with it" so do take this with a grain of salt.
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>>2259969
there is a way to ventilate anything anon, you just arent /diy/ enough
>>2260052
>A bit of both really. It's just like any other hobby though, some days everything works very well, other days nothing seems to go the way you want it to.
this would only happen using a cheap printer, and even then, youd have to be clueless to have unexpected problems from a known working printer
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>>2259428
The only way I could think this would be better is if the filament spool also had a swastika
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>>2260059
>this would only happen using a cheap printer
Yeah. But most people getting started don't have the budget or the knowledge to put together a better machine.
>youd have to be clueless to have unexpected problems from a known working printer
Stuff like V roller bearings going bad can show up suddenly and be hard to diagnose. V roller wear can also show up suddenly in your print, but that's rarer and usually only confined to Z. Sometimes shit just clogs for no apparent reason. Or the slicer does some stupid shit that you didn't notice before because it didn't matter for previous prints.
Not everything is as deterministic as you'd like it to be.
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>>2260024
People with hobby electronics, engineering or machining background are ok with it. You always fuck up stuff. But the random dude who never even tried coding a pic/arduino or soldering something might find it daunting. But the fine tuning and experimenting is hard for everyone I guess. I had no problems putting an ender 3 without any previous 3d printing experience but I am an electrical engineer.
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>>2259580
Fire's for the jews
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>>2260047
>>2260052
>>2260075
Thanks for the input, I appreciate the help.
I'm not concerned about the initial assembly at all, looking at the Ender 3 v2. The part that sounds like a pain in the ass is troubleshooting the heat, filament, slicer potentially warped plate, and having this potentially vary depending on the model I want to print. It reminds me of getting paint viscosity right. Watching this intro video the guy goes through his steps and then is like, yup, the plate is fucked, look up a different video to fix that. https://youtu.be/T-Z3GmM20JM?t=1220

He says not to pursue perfection on this stuff but I don't know what impact something like that will have. It may be a non issue. Can I expect to buy this thing, set it up and print and use something like these same day?
Do things like these require exact accuracy or is that mostly concern for weebs modeling figures or what?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170748
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>>2260108
Correction, I bought a Biqu B1. I printed OK stuff in the same day. Now I am in the tuning stage. Most problems are because of me not understanding the slicer.
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>>2260109
Printing gears need some finetuning too. Try making some boxes, vases, stuff with words + the calibration models. then make some moving shit.
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>>2259841
That is my plan. I will buy a concrete slab tomorrow and my foam pads should arrive on Sunday.
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>>2257183
so any good deals going on right now?
im in the market for a resin printer, but if theres a big cheap filament printer out there too im interested
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>>2260130
I guess I went overboard with my setup. Now I'm able to record video and time-lapses. Maybe someone will enjoy my autistic projects.
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>>2260187
Welp. I guess I need to stabilize my camera.
>>2260185
Elegoo Mars if you must have a resin printer. They can be messy.
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>>2260062
technically doable with a custom printed spool and filament refills
>>
For me, the choice between an Ender 3 and a Prusa comes down to one single fucking design difference, Linear bearings and rails vs aluminum extrusions and roller bearings.
Linear is more precise but the issue is that they're precision is kind of wasted in this regard unless you're toasting your prints with 0.2 nozzles and doing shit you should ideally be using a resin printer for.

Basically, the juice isn't worth the squeeze. I've seen brilliant prints with both types of printers, some better on one than the other but the differences aren't really worthy of the price to me. This does break down on a DIY level, though. An Ender 3 is an extremely upgradable printer. You may find that through modification of heating or cooling components, that you can narrow the gap between both printers and you can even find linear rails for Creality printers. It's a different strokes sort of situation. Get a standardized product that works as the manufacturer intends because they're all on model with a standard, or Frankenstein a Godlike Ender 3 with high-end hotends and cooling solutions.

I go for the fun one. Ender all the way.
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So I just got a resin printer whats the best slicer to use. Also where do i get figurine stls.
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>>2259825
Fair enough. How would you?
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>>2260108
>He says not to pursue perfection on this stuff
He's probably talking in terms of what much better and more expensive printers can do.
I printed a perfect benchy the first time I used the E3Pro. If anything I'd be hard pressed to do one just as good now, after an entire year of owning the thing.
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>>2260021
>https://zerogdesign.github.io/index.html
I was honestly expecting BOM to a bigger list.

That might be worth it, what is not worth it are people who "convert" their ender 3 to switchwire, and in the end they barely use anything from the ender 3, like how is that even a ender 3 conversion.

This on the other hand, BOM is just extra hardware, and optional electronics list.

If I end up getting a ender 5, I may try this.
>>
I am too stupid to use openscad but thinkercad isn't cutting it anymore
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>>2260366
I mean, I can use it to do the random cool parametric shape but a hinge? set of gears? fuck me.
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>>2260187
whats with the vhs quality camera?
>>
What is the difference between outer and inner walls? Why should I waste so much time in inner walls?
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>>2260366
>>2260368
OpenSCAD is a meme promoted by /g/ tryhards. It's the "install Gentoo" of the CAD world.
Real CAD software like Solidworks (maybe F360 too but fuck Autodesk) comes with variables and equations you can use to design your stuff. You can make parametric stuff just as easily, if not easier. You're just not constrained to making every single part solely by code.
>>
>>2260400
>Why should I waste so much time in inner walls?
thats a good question anon? Usually people have outer walls print slower.
>>
Has anyone tried this? (Or similar)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754303/makes

Dude says he designed a hemholtz resonator to muffle the noise but does not give the specifics. I do not want to was my filament.. My biqu b1 sounds like a jet engine.
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>>2260368
check out freecad, anon.
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Anyone cast receivers from 3d prints?
Thinking of turning my beer cans into AR10s
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>>2259500
No, not really.
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>>2260429
Most of these crap you will find are placebos with minimal effect on the noise level.
Buy a bigger fan from a decent brand like arctic and replace the loud piece of shit.
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>>2260433
What you're implying is theoretically impossible to do.
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>>2260368
>>
I can't find a straight answer whether fumes are toxic or what is really food safe.
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>>2260475
I mean in minecraft
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>>2260475
>>
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>>2260403
I learned Autocad a couple decades ago and then learned Autolisp to automate and customize things.
Learned how to use Blender, but then learned how to use python with it to automate and customize things.
Tried OpenScad and haven't looked back. I find it intuitive. Even when first learning it, Id try use the syntax the way I thought it should be before refering to a reference, and usually got it right.
I've all but quit figuring things out on paper first, though sometimes I should.
I did start programming in BASIC though, and used it in a steel fab shop to model layouts of cones, elbows, square to round transisions. ect. Probably not for everyone.
I like how it's so customizable.
Don't like translate([x, y, z])?
>module move(x=0, y=0, z=0){
>translate([x, y, z]);
>}
Now, for a single axis, it's move(x=5);

>>2260368
>hinge?
It helps to break things down into a lot of modules, 2d and 3d.
It much improves readability and breaks the problem down into easily managed fragments so you don't have to keep track of as many things at once.
Draw all subparts at the origin then move/rotate them into place with another module.
I'd probably do something like

hingePinDia = 5;
hingePinClearancePerSide = 0.3;
hingePinWall = 2;
ect...
//2d
module hingePinHoleID2d(){}
module hingePinHoleOD2d(){}
ect...
//3d
module hingePivot3D(//uses 2d modules){}
module hingePlate3d(){}
//complete parts
module hingeSide1Complete(){}
//helpers
module chamferedHole3D(dia, height, chamfer)(){}
//layouts
module print(){}
module assembly(){}
>>
>>2260429
>I do not want to was my filament..
dude the part probably uses 2g at most...
>>
>>2260498
>I can't find a straight answer whether fumes are toxic or what is really food safe.
Read the MSDS, usually you have to go all the way to the manufacturers website, and if its not under the filament listings themselves it'll be under some gay support tab.
>what is really food safe
I mean FDA approved filaments exist, so even if you don't want to be bothered with reading safety documents you can straight up go and buy them.
>>
>>2260515
If you have a coding background I can see how it would be easier but most people here don't and that's why they struggle with OpenSCAD. I tried making some simple stuff but it was tedious because I had to refer to the documentation every 10 seconds. Also I find the preview quite janky and barebones.
This is why I stand by my opinion that OpenSCAD is like gentoo. Yes, there are legitimate uses for it and some people really do find it to be better but for everyone else a GUI based CAD is far easier and more intuitive to learn.
Solidworks is a professional program but I find that it's designed to be used by morons. Most tools come with suggestive icons, on point descriptions and plenty of tooltips. Help for a specific tool or function is a single click away so you don't even have to search the help database. Because of this it's newb friendly. Once you understand the basic workflow of such a CAD - sketch in 2D and extrude in the 3rd dimension - everything else is pretty much self explanatory.
>>
>>2260475
If he's in the US, it's not illegal.
>>
>>2260565
The guy you're quoting isn't suggesting it's illegal, right?
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>>2260573
And the joke went right over your head.
>>
>>2260062
a black sun would be more structurally sound
>>
>adjust the Y belt tension
>turn on
>printer zeros in
>BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRITCHITCHTICH ITCH kill()
>bed frame hit the Y axis belt pulley at the end
Pulley screws came loose at the factory/transport and I did not notice because the base came pre-assembled. Spent a couple hours to find the problem but now I know a little bit more about how the printer is made.
Cool hobby.
>>
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Anyone ever tried 3d printing shaft couplers/gears for these small motors? I have lots of them but I can't use them because they have a very small shaft. How did you do? What kind of screw you used?
>>
>>2260187
needs better lighting
>>
I bought a BTT Octopus 1.1, but I need additional power wires for my Ender 3 v2 PSU to power the motors. Where can I buy U-pronged positive and negative wires? And what's the proper name for those wires?
>>
>>2260730
y spade connector
>>
https://github.com/OctoPrint/OctoPrint/issues/2454

finally found someone who has the same problem as me with serial connections on octoprint randomly sending gibberish and then causing the printer to wait, but no solution
thought it was something with EMI but maybe it's just raspberry pi, linux, and GPIO serial issues, since it only happens every once in a while
it still prints fine, but there might be some ooze wherever it froze for a few seconds
>>
What causes the edges to be so jaggy? I adjusted retraction already and it helped some.
>>
>>2260747
Thanks, but what are the actual postiive and negative wires called that you crimp with those connectors?

I'm completely retooling my ender 3 v2 so the bottom of it is pretty much empty apart from the profiles holding it together. The electronics will be relocated further away.
>>
>>2260767
what? ferrules? buy a crimper and some ~14-16 gauge stranded wire, silicone if you can afford it
>>
>>2259046
>Can an ender 3 be upgraded to print better than a mk3s?
Yes, although it costs time and money.
I started with an Ender 3 Pro, and by the time I'd got into it properly I had spent so much time and money on mods that I may as well have just bought a Prusa.
To be honest idgaf, as the process taught me a lot, and my E3 is the most consistent workhorse I own, never misses a beat.
>>
>>2257379
literally "just werks"
>>
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I got a free ender 5 out of the trash today. It's missing the entire bed assembly. Anyone know where I can order one? Powers on and the hot end heats up.
>>
>>2259458
I've been using 'Ziro', bought it on amazon. I've probably gone through 20kg and every roll has been perfect, spooled nicely and everything. Cheap also.
>>
>>2260779
so does the biqu b1
>>
>>2260780
>people literally just chug 3d printers and half functioning computers in the first world
why I was born in Brazil? I can't even get a decent microwave oven transformer before the crackheads show up
>>
>>2260766
are you extruding extra filament on restart? if not id say retraction length is too short
>>
>>2260780
>Anyone know where I can order one?
probably gonna have to email creality m8
>>
>>2260766
>>2260818
Thanks but I found the problem. Just killed the thermo resistor and who knows what else.
>>
>>2260853
Forgot pic.
>>
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Why exactly is superslicer fucking up here? It should be putting supports across the bottom but for whatever reason it thinks this is okay.
>>
>>2260708
I'd make it a d-shaft (sand down one side). I bet a round shaft will slip.
>>
>>2260786
Not him,
It's an ender 5 pro, not exactly a high end printer. Here in the states you can get them for $300 brand new. I'm assuming they fucked the bed up, tried selling it, it didn't sell, it was taking up space, so they placed it outside for someone like me to take. Things rarely end up in the land fills. People put things out for people to take for free.
>>2260780
Buy 20x20 aluminum extrusion, cut it down to fit, some long m4 screws, heated bed, some spacers or springs, piece of glass and make it. Finding just that part will be impossible which is probably why you found it in the trash. Corner brackets and screws and fasteners. Hacksaw, and a drill. When it's done you can print the end caps
>>
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could one kind anon please repost the free solidworks codes?
>>
>>2261037
magnet:?xt=urn:btih:02C75F9E430B07399E11A2D1F171B4F55196B7CA
Complete with toolbox and simulations. You're welcome.
>>
do you guys think there's going to be an excess amount of 3d printers on the second hand markets after the holidays are over?
just a guess due to the amount of people that will probably buy their kid a 3d printer and then not know how to use it.
>>
>>2260898
itll be a setting somewhere labeled:
>Dont support bridges
>>
>>2261103
Many thanks friend
>>
What problems could arise from using something plastic fiber instead of filament? I might have access to untold amounts of high-quality PETG, Nylon and polyamide thick strands (for fishing nets and shit). They are about 1.6-1.8 mm but are multistranded.
>>
>>2260375
I'm using a Raspberry Pi camera (v2 or it could be a Chinese knockoff) and tried scaling down the image quality dramatically as I cannot upload larger than 3MB files on this board.

>>2260714
You are correct. I need better lighting.
>>
What causes elephant foot? Is rafting the only good way to solve it? My dimensions are pretty much bang on on the x-y plane but along Z I am always a bit short because of the molten first layer.
>>
>>2257778
why is your arm all wet anon?
>>
>>2261234
bedlevel
best way is to print some flat pattern and level it while its printing
>>
You guys tried Octoprint on Android? That shit is awesome.
>>
>>2261331
Octoprint has a lot of issues. Layer skipping, booting into safe mode after a week, prints will randomly pause. Octoprint has fallen out of favor.
>>
>>2261359
I've been running it for 6 months, printing constantly for probably 75% of that time and have had none of those issues.

Those are probably either plugin issues or serial over usb issues with your chinky printer.
>>
>>2261363
>I don't know what the fuck I'm talking about so I'll just push it on his cheap printer
Smells like projection to me. Octoprint is quite good but barebones.
>muh plugin issues
This is a valid point but the logical endpoint would be to ditch plugins altogether which is not a very appealing thing.
There's a number of things that Octoprint desperately needs. RPi GPIO control is one big thing and so is a basic bitch editor to read and edit uploaded Gcodes. There's a lot of other utility stuff that's nice to have but those aren't nearly as important as the ones I mentioned.
>>
is doing an ender 3 switchwire conversion worth it?
>>
been trying to print a puzzle box from thingiverse lately and every single piece of the print seems to be slightly too big, its like im overextruding and/or too close to the bed no matter what the fuck i do

i've earlier calibrated and now triple checked both e-steps and flow, i've trammed/leveled this bastard so many times im going crazy

what the fuck do i do, how do i calibrate with even more precision?
nothing ever fits or "snaps into place" as shown

this is the one i'm trying to print btw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fg1-mfWMYwI
>>
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I bought ender 3 v2
assembly and benchy went pretty much fine but with some errors and then xyz cube failed halfway trough so I tried loosing up bed screws as it didn't move smoothly
now it doesn't want to print anything and fail on first layer as.
For last 3 days i fucked with every screw that might be too tight or loose and now only thing that might move is Z axis and bed but it needs a lot of force to wobble so I don't think it moves during printing. I'm using some random pla that I was using before on friends ender 3 with pretty much same setting
200C on nozzle and 60C on bed. Should I raise temperature on bed higher?
>>
>>2261387
lol I like how you randomly assume that you have loose screws or are out of tram. I can see that your benchy printed with the nozzle scraping the bed, and your calibration cube warped up and off of the bed.

The instructions mention leveling the bed with a piece of paper while its pre-heating, this is to ensure that the bed is actually level and z offset is correct. Heat cycles will move the build plate up and down over time, and the bed will have to be re-leveled.

Most people install a probe of some sort so that auto-leveling does the work for them. others like me just live with the level knobs and do leveling on the fly at the beginning of every print lol
>>
>>2261406
I mean screws around rollers as assembly videos said they need to be in perfect spot
I leveled it after every printing attempt so around 20 times already. I think benchy was as tight as paper can move only one way and the rest was lighter so i can just feel it pushing on paper. I thought Z axis or bed was fucked as after every printing attempt It was not level.
>>
>>2257208
what is the most godawful regular PLA color out there? i need it.
>>2257376
that seems like a decent deal for limeyland. ABL is nice and all, but its easy as fuck to retrofit. Look for an Elegoo Neptune 2 of some sort. excellent machines and much cheaper. just get silicone level blocks and a flexible print sheet.
>>
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goddamn I hate overture filament, this shit is the absolute worst!
>>
>>2261387
Did you clean the bed with alcohol or Windex before printing? Pla leaves a film behind so you clean between prints as well friend.
>>
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I'm trying to convert an existing .stl to brep to make some changes before printing it. For some reason this crap happens, instead of a single solid body being created. How the hell do I do it right?
>>
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and no, it's not letting me simply combine the 120 bodies
>>
>>2261767
>How the hell do I do it right
Take dimensions and use them to create a new part. This is the only way towards a proper editable model.
>>
>>2261767
It looks like stl is not made properly. Should have been only one body. You can try to merge it to one body with blender, mesmixer or netfabb. Maybe you can import it slicer which will repair it and than export it as new stl. I think it should work with PrusaSlicer.
Maybe you could also merge it in Fusion360 before you converted it to Solid? When it was a mesh body. I think it has some features to do that.
Depends what changes you want to do? Maybe you don't need to merge it at all? as long as there won't be any problems in slicer.
>>
>>2261776
A different stl did indeed work and concerted to one body.I'll try PrusaSlicer.
>>
>>2261767
Mesh repair. Look up how on YouTube. >>2261777
Pslicer is good, but cura is better. I like simplify3d because it has mesh detection built in. but it's expensive and has drm. Cura seems to be industry standard.
>>
Does anyone have recommendations for any wood pla?

I see a couple of the more expensive ones on sale and I'm thinking about picking up a spool, but I'm pretty new to 3d printing and am using a stock Ender 3v2 and a .04 nozzle. Is it possible to print with that set up or would I need to upgrade?
>>
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Where should I put supports?
And would it be better if I print the model like this or on its back?
>>
>>2258369
Voxelabs
>>
>>2259022
Can you also make primer cups?
>>
>>2258546
>shit that literally just costs cents to improve still not there

LOL
>>
>>2258546
>magnetic build plate
Is the glass one really that shit? God damn it.

I already upgraded my Ender 3 V2 with:
a BMG extruder,
new capricorn bowden tube,
BLTouch,
yellow springs (then switched to silicone spacers),
dual z-axis (2 motors),
BTT Octopus with TMC2209 steppers,

and right now I'm working on rewiring the current PSU, waiting for longer stepper cables (don't have a crimper) and maybe modifying the frame of the printer so that it's square instead of being I-I.

What else should I get? Build plate recommendations? Mosquito clone extruder? Direct drive?
>>
>>2261896
>modifying the frame of the printer so that it's square instead of being I-I

LITERALLY a waste of money
>>
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>2000 dolaridoos
Should i just wait for the MK4?

>wobbly frame
>>
>>2259428
>only thing worse than hell is being part of an extruder
>>
>>2259458
polylite pla
>>
>>2259564
>DIY-fume hood with fan for extracting, with HEPA-whatnot filter?
Look into how they use charcoal canister filters on marijuana grow tents.
>>
>>2261904
>wobbly frame
huh?
>>
>>2261904
Not just wobbly frame, wobbly plastic idler assemblies that are under tension from the corexy belts. What kind of useless retard thought that would be a good idea? That's going to warp before you get a completed first print.
>>
>>2261930
Did you watch the intro video? If not I highly suggest watching it. The entire thing wobbles more than my grandma.
>>
>>2261931
>plastic idler assemblies
Most corexy have that.
>>
>>2261933
Got a timestamp? I can't spot it.
>>
>>2261931
>plastic idler assemblies
There's nothing inherently bad about that, as long as they're properly designed they'll be just fine. And since it is such an easy part to do properly I doubt that they could have managed to mess it up.
>>
>>2261597
That filament looks like it has moisture in it
>>
great idea on how to become rich: Work together with these dudes

>>2257716

if you make plastic enclosures for electronic components...electronic components + plastic enclosures = new device/gadget, and that means moneys
>>
>>2261964
too add: woodfags are not invited, wood sucks, is smelly, soggy and is of shit, welder/metalworking dudes are cool though.
>>
Thoughts on the Voxelab aquila and aries? Is the aries worth the extra $100ish over the aquila? I'm replacing a wanhao di3 that appears to have gone to shit
>>
>>2261964
Here's a hint, we're in both places
>>
>>2261964
>"Work together with these dudes"
>7 555 timers soldered on top each other
We do have our own share of idiots here but that is on a whole new level.
>>
>>2262022
>>2262021
I just thought that sometimes these boards do create talent and money, like that one singer from /mu/ about being rich or something, IDK. Poorness, but not too poor to not to invent, and creativity, seem to work well sometimes to create loads of dosh.
>>
>>2262021
this, also, id bet at least half of us are making money too
>>
>>2257761
Grab some canned air, flip it upside down and hit it with the gas on one corner for a few seconds on a hot plate. No guarantees your glass won't explode but the thermal change really tears a big print a new asshole. You can also use alcohol and just flex it with your fingers till a drop gets under a corner then it's GG from there. Don't light yourself on fire (or do).
>>
Can I modify a prusa mini to be direct drive so that I can print tpu? Or should I just get the full sized one for that? What would be a similar value in the tpu printer world that I should look at instead?
>>
>>2261896
>Is the glass one really that shit?
Mine works great for PLA, but at times I have to wait until it cools down before things pop off
spring steel sheet you can just flex to get things to pop off, no need to wait

>>2261931
>>2261939
latest prusa live says it wont be PETG, probably PC or something more special. Open the transcript and ctrl-f petg to find the relevant part. though only time will tel if josef lied or not
>>
>>2259962
Ha ha uh oh stinky
>>
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Ended up ordering my printer, thanks for the feedback in this thread, it should be arriving today.

Can I get some beginner help on this tinkercad design? This is going to hold a magnet switch and mount to my garage door. It's about 2-2.5" all around and walls are about 1/8" thick. Next time I'm doing everything in MM.

Is it common to put holes in it to save filament and time or is something this small not even worth bothering with it? It will be on the moving part of the door so leaning towards keeping it solid for integrity.
>>
What CAD program has the best mesh to parametric body conversion?
>>
>>2257183
I've installed a 0.6mm nozzle on my Ender 3 V2 and now my printhead is hitting the print right near the end of a print job.
According to my searches this might be due to overextrusion?
Any good tips for checking for overextrusion? First layer looks perfectly good and normal and throughout the print everything looks fine. I thought about reducing "Flow" in Cura to 75% but I'm afraid of it not printing correctly.

Any help would be appreciated
>>
What's the name of that chink SLA printer that was on sale recently that everybody here talked about?
>>
>>2262258
Just make it solid when it's that thin or you're going to have to get into the settings pretty deep for a beginner. Remember you lose strength long-ways from the seam of the print.
>>
new thread

>>2262432
>>
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>>2259841
What the hell? This is quiet. I didn't expect this to be so quiet. Thanks, Anonymous.
>>
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>>2262462
Also, I fixed the models, and after going back to Prusa Slicer, the print quality is better. I replaced the left piece and it looks better.
>>
>>2262462
Very nice. Why the fancy pads though? I just cut up some scrap foam.
>>
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just saw this on the adderini cults page, thought it was really cool
>>
someone I know bought a used makerbot without doing any research
how do they compare to todays printers?
>>
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>>2262462



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