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Last thread: >>2218292

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Prusa Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
People should spend more time finishing their parts, eg, sanding, filling, priming, painting. Fight me
>>
>>2225420
I have another 7 batches of prints to go through before the next session. I ain't got time to polish anything.
>>
>>2225426
polish my cock
>>
>>2225427
dzien dobry ty huj
>>
>>2225420
>Fight me
I have 14 inch biceps and the pecks to go along with it. It would be a felony for me to even attempt to throw a punch at you. My mma license would be revoked and I'd be disqualified for a decade. no thank you. Also because of my career I just don't have time to mess around. My grip strength would ruin it before I ever got good at it. I'll just run parts off for fun like I always do and enjoy life.
>>
>>2225420
And I have a mildly annoying wit. Come at me fag.
>>
give me some cool shit to print out of marble pla
>>
>>2225553
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23338
Here you go anon.
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This seems wrong
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After a significant purge the previous loaded filament decided to show up mid print for some reason. Thankfully it was just a test print.


>>2225553
https://fab365.net/items/34
>>
what do I need to know, to properly print out an entire Battletech Comstar COM Guard level 2 in PLA, each mech a foot tall?

I want them ready for the battle of Tukkayyid pre-anniversary next year.
I have an ender 2 v2 clone to use for this project.
>>
>>2225340
that is pretty cool, well done anon
>>
I have an idea for a community project: 500 mechanical mechanisms commonly used in machinery and in life - King Mechanical

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNWyqpf__9M

any of these things, if any of us manages to make 3d print versions off will destroy/enhance and change industries. Who wants to try one for the fun of it?
>>
>>2225590
Tell me you have an ender without telling me you have an ender...
>>
>>2225671
>Tell me you have an ender without telling me you have an ender...
>>
>>2225675
lol it got beheaded, why would you even print that without supports?
>>
>>2225657
I like this idea, maybe I will get around to designing one of those.
Also if I could add to the list of things to be 3D printed, this mechanical inverter seems quite useful, but the files are for laser cutting, not 3D printing.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:773

For now here's a freebie self centering chuck for those who want to print directly
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4679767
>>
>>2225675
Nice image you pulled from Google there lol
>>
>>2225675
Also notice I said nothing to the effect of anything related to prusa. Yet this is what you jump to. Googling prusa fail and posting it here. Build a voron or gtfo.
>>
>>2225720
the first thing you mentioned when someone had an issue was what printer they have, rent free

kill yourself, you dont even print
>>
>>2225691
Any of these designs will bolster our cv if you wanna get into the design world. I have been thinking for a while what to design and what better thing than these? It could be a regular challenge of sorts, would help 3d printer notoriety in general as well.
>>
>>2225755
Listen, I get doing this for fun or to help other anons here, but bolstering your CV is just bull. In the age of the internet you will have a hard time proving you are the author, especially once you post pictures ITT which then end up searchable by google and other engines.
If you want to bolster your CV then you better grab yourself some certifications. Nobody will give you the time of day to prove you really know X skill when there's 10 others at the door that have the certification to prove it. I have first hand experience with this in programming, I learned Python by myself but I couldn't get a job because I don't have any paper to officially prove I know it. Now I enrolled in a one year course to get the goddamn paper.
Back to the subject at hand I'm a sucker for building games and CAD is pretty much that but actually useful so that's why I thought I'd contribute. Also because there's a general lack of mechanical components or mechanisms that include CAD files to be easily customizable.
>>
>>2225772
haha, really? Well that is a gloomy view anon. Guess they could use more proofs. But its a good idea to get certs indeed. But I made a welding table and nobody questioned if it was stolen or not because it was amateurish. I even got a loan for a cert to weld at level one because of it. I submitted all the pictures to the loan agency and they approved it because of that. So it does work.
>>
>>2225720
>Build a voron or gtfo.
Nah, build a ratrig. The superior construction.
>>
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>>2226031
>The superior construction.
>Not the SIMPSON.
>>
since you guys work with plastic/acrylic a lot, how do I make nail polish stay on plastic or acrylic materials permanently? do I spray paint a clear coat?
>>
>>2226059
whys it looking all seductive like that?
>>
>>2226122
Self etching primer and craft paint then clear coat. Nail polish is meant to stick to protein not plastic.
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is there a way to convert a shape/model to something that can be vase mode printed.
my example shows the wall thickness is a little random and i want the inner walls a consistent size
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me print
>>
I bought a laser engraver. What kind of laptop will I need? Is an old ThinkPad good enough?
>>
>>2226409
but why
>>
>>2226473
im using 1mm nozzle and i cant easily get a clean look cause of seams and filament ooze even with retraction/zlift. for thin walls anyway.
so vase mode easier/faster.
>>
>>2226267
thank you. I followed this and it turned out so well
>>
>>2226409
The simplest option would be to generate gcode with 1 perimeter only then process the paths to meet your needs. Its easy with a bit of programming knowledge.
I wouldnt even try to modify the 3D model.
>>
3D printers are pretty cool and I have access to a nice one, but I have nothing to print.
>>
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I got my CR10s Pro V2 working really well with a cracked copy of Simplify3D after a year.

Now I realise Simplify3D is fucking gay and now I moved to Cura.

Give me another year to refine all my settings again, but at least this time my top layers won't look like shit.
>>
any based MSLA chads have opinions on a good resin to use for gears with fairly small teeth? I tried with the standard Anycubic stuff and it worked for a while but then the teeth just broke off.
>>
>>2226540
print 10 baby groots for the true 3d printing r3ddit experience.
>>
>>2226717
>JUST GOT AN ENDER 3 PRO HERE'S MY FIRST BENCHY HOW DID I DO
>>
>>2226721
>WHY IS MY BED/EXTRUDER WOBBLY?? NO I DONT KNOW WHAT ECCENTRIC NUTS ARE
>>
>>2226562
>Give me another year to refine all my settings again, but at least this time my top layers won't look like shit.
moar liek, wait another year till you switch over to prusa slicer and never have print quality issues again ;^)
>>
>>2226562
>Now I realise Simplify3D is fucking gay and now I moved to Cura.
why do you think that?
i bought s3d with my first printer, and it works great.
one time it pitched a fit when it wasn't connected to the internet for a while.
so, i got pissed off and tried cura.
cura worked, but it slammed my print head all over the place.
>>
For a BTT octopus, what type of inductive probe works with the sensor port? I know I need a 3-wire probe but should it be NC or NO? What about NPN and PNP? I couldn't find any recommended types. I guess NC or NO could be set up in klipper but I'm not sure about the NPN or PNP transistors.
>>
>>2226775
I'm using an no probe, but I'm also not using a btt octopus and I don't recall if i had to do something in software or not.
>>
>>2225720
>build a toy printer
>>
>>2226468
Assuming it's a full unit and not just e.g. the frame and motors, just about anything should be able to control it. It's vector graphics, so it should be less complex than 3D models. But, worth looking into yourself, don't take my word for it.
>>
>>2226468
Literally anything that can run Windows.
>>
>>2226791
Wake me up when a mk3s+ costs less than a used car. $750 is way too much friend.
>>
is there a site that has lists of local/small business filament makers? Keene village moved from near to me at the time, to ohio. now I cant even get their mystery rolls for cheap as fuck when I go visit my uncle up in NC.

I'm talking independent PLA filament makers, cause if I have to buy from someone, I'd rather support the little guy, than amazon or walmart/bigbox.
>>
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Can someone redpill me on these resin printers? I've been 3d printing for years with filament, but was thinking of pulling the trigger on one of these expensive as shit prusa resin printers. Is it worth the cost? What are the advantages/drawbacks vs a good filament printer?
>>
>>2227087
tell yourself this, do you build miniature models? because that literally seems like what its most utilized for
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>>2227093
I print mostly miniature figures and statues of people, 3-4 inches tall
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>>2227093
or small gears in old laserdisc players that have crumbled into dust and have no stock of replacement parts. its surprisingly good for that. my brother got our dads pioneer from our childhood running after decades of sitting in a box to get fixed.
>>
>>2227095
I didn't think even sla was that detailed. I might have to look into those printers.
>>
>>2226409
Make a shape based on the print path, and then extrude it. Look this model and the printed pictures for reference:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3733512
>>
>>2227151
he desnged and printed them himself. used some plugin or another and had to do like 6 revisions but its happily going along, and my dad is happy as shit. he can flex on his fellow old farts with his kareoke/laserdisc/cd/sacd/vcd player. goddamn thing was almost $2K in 1995. It was in his den. I was never allowed near it.
>>
>>2227157
2k in 95 was a lot of fucking money
>>
>>2226739
Simplify was giving me bad top layer results. I blamed the software because it's easier

So I switched to Cura and the "ironing" on the top layer is awesome.
>>
Ahh the sweet scent of PLA, I'm sorry I let you be dormant over these past few months.
>>
>>2227087
>Only capable of printing very tiny things
>Resin is a bitch to deal with
>Great quality of prints
Gotta take the good with the bad.
>>
>>2227094
Once you print your first resin mini, you will regret ever having printed minis with an fdm printer.
>>
>>2227075
>is there a site that has lists of local/small business filament makers?
thatd be cool but there's probably like a whole 5 in the US
>>
>>2227239
yeah, i had top layer issues, too.
i changed the number from whatever the default was to 5, and now all of my parts look nice.
>>
>>2227075
Does Push PLA still exist?
>>
>>2227087
>was thinking of pulling the trigger on one of these expensive as shit prusa resin printers
Why? Get an Elegoo Saturn instead. You could get 4 of them for the same price. And it has a substantially bigger build volume.
>>
>>2227347
>Why?
I want something reliable. I spent too many hours fighting with a chinkshit filament printer before I got a prusa which has been great. Are these elegoo saturns any good?
>>
>>2227366
Resin printers are much less finicky than fdm printers. Elegoo printers are pretty solid all around.

If you just level your printbed properly once, you don't really have to fiddle with it ever again.
>>
>>2227366
Any resin printer is fire and forget. You play around with settings in your slicer, you find some setup that works, that's it. After that your only maintenance + adjustment is making sure the printbed is level for each print, which is an automatic 30 second process, and replacing the FEP film in the vat every couple of months, which is long and tedious but you're going to have to do with the Prusa anyway. I struggle to think of any way in which the Prusa would be a better machine than the Elegoo.
>>
>>2227366
> I spent too many hours fighting with a chinkshit filament printer before I got a prusa which has been great
I love how easily #makers get filtered when things arent braindead "push the green button" plug and play for them.
>>
>>2227397
Excuse me if I get a 3D printer because I want to 3D print things, not because I want to spend hours trying to get it to work
>>
>>2227397
>using a fucking hashtag on 4chan

>>>/reddit/
>>>/lgbt/
>>
>>2227410
I believe anon was being satirical
>>
>>2227424
With the absolute state of this board, it's hard to tell anymore.
>>
>>2225415
>Printing a faucet head.
Holy shit. You must really LOVE drinking microplastics.
>>
>>2227436
you drink straight tap water?
>>
>>2227436
The fact that microplastics are in literally everything and we're not all dying from it is a good indicator that they don't have a meaningful impact on anything.
>>
Evaluate these statements for truthness
>A resin print with thinner layer thickness will be physically stronger because force is dissipated though more individual layers
vs.
>A resin print with thicker layers and appropriately longer curing time will be physically stronger because each individual layer will be stronger
>>
>>2227452
doesn't matter

https://formlabs.com/blog/isotropy-in-SLA-3D-printing/#Why%20SLA%20Prints%20are%20Isotropic%3A%20Theory
>>
>>2227456
well
OK then
>>
tell me about how strong PLA really is, came across this and was impressed with how streamlined the design is and on the website it says the guy used PLA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khtjkzfqMY8&t=3s&ab_channel=JoergSprave
>>
>>2227456
This.
But are there any resins that are actually durable and rigid by now?
I've only handled a few parts way long ago and they seemed considerably worse than fdm, even in the weak direction.
>>
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>>2227652
Depends on what you're using
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>>2227637
>tell me about how strong PLA really is
its very rigid and hates being flexed/bent, and by far its worst trait is its extremely vulnerable to thermals with it starting to melt aroung 55c/130f

Other than that it might be my favorite polymer because of the stiffness, it feels really nice in the hand and like it'd be 10x stronger than it actually is. Its really strong right up until it isn't and 'isn't is much sooner than one would think.
>>
Is there a material I could have something printed in that would be OK with long-term immersion in paint thinner?
>>
Bros.... does resin need heat to cure properly?
This whole time I had a fan in my curing station to keep things cool...
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I was going to paint this with Discovery livery but I ended up with Challenger instead....
>>
>>2227741
really depends on what the exact chemical makeup of your paint thinner. there are so many filaments out there im sure you could find one that doesn't react with your paint thinner
>>
>>2227755
Heat is part of the process, yes, but you probably didn't cool the part down enough to do much more than extend the cure time.
>>
I'm interested in a resin printer to have one of each.
Can I run two printers, on of the FDM and one SLA off my octoprint rPi?
How does this work?
>>
>>2227238
damn right it was. his business partner bought the first plasma tv in 720P on the market. it was like $15K or something. 38 inches or something ridiculous. it was a shock in those days to see how good it looked. he burned in headline news and msnbc to the screen.
>>
>>2227087
To your original question:
I've been 3d printing for years and have several types of printers.
The reason sla printers are so cheap is theres so much extra work you need to do to finish the part. Then there's the cleanup every single time. Sla is just a headache. You can get impressive fdm parts and you won't have to worry about it killing your dog or cat if they consume the waste. Pla is milk acids, fat, and plastisines. Sla is very toxic in liquid form. You should have a hood and gloves while handling it.
>>
>>2227876
and a rubberized apron. it loves to spill towards you. it saved my brother from being covered last tuesday with resin.
>>
>>2227878
and wear solid shoes that are waterproof. treat it like you would a dangerous chem lab experiment, with seriousness and precision. sloshing poisonous chemicals around can blind you or put a chemical burn on your cock. chemical burns hurt like all hell. its your nerve endings screaming like the souls of the damned.
>>
>>2227911
>>2227878
>>2227876
Conversely:
I take no safety precautions except good ventilation and I've managed to survive with all limbs attached. It's nasty stuff that you don't necessarily want on your skin, but it's not sulfuric fucking acid.
>>
>>2227928
This
I just wear gloves because it's sticky, not the toxicity. If I get some on me I wash my hands when I'm done.
>>
>>2227637
this is pretty based, and yea, it seems that people love pla +, its not only the easiest thing to print with but the added plus things also make it quite strong. The other materials are often more costly and messy to deal with. So they mixed regular PLA to give it better properties. Quite smart really.
>>
>>2225420
That's why I married an artist. I print things, she makes them pretty, even when they are failures.

I did a dice tower back in 2012 and it failed about 95% into the print after it finished the structure but before it finished the top pretty bit, but then she painted it and it's gotten more complements than most purchased pieces out there
>>
Due to global supply chain disruption there is an anticipated shortage of dragon dildos.
You know what to do, anons.
>>
>>2228078
making dragon dildoes doesnt seem worth it, got to print it then make a mold, then do a silicone pour..... I can get reasonably priced medical grade silicone dragon dildoes off etsy
>>
>>2227928
>>2227933
Well of course. I'm just saying most people don't realize what it is they're dealing with. You need alcohol and a curing station. It's not cut and dry.
>>
>>2228081
I promise you, it is worth it
Best decision you will ever make
>>
>>2228099
lies, post several webms of you using your homemade dildoes on /gif/ for proof
>>
>>2227087
cons:
>tiny build volume
>wear gloves, glasses and mask all the time because fumes and skin contact should be avoided
>meticulously clean shit all the time

pros:
>if you and your slicer know what you're doing you can get parts that look like they've been injection molded
>>
>>2228267
>if you and your slicer know what you're doing you can get parts that look like they've been injection molded
lmao you need some thicker glasses boi, SLA parts only look injection molded if you paint them, and even then its not always foolproof.
>>
>>2228078
I used to have the bad dragon stl files. You have a link? Strictly for scientific research.
>>
>>2228358
So do you print out a mold or print it out of TPU with plenty of voids?
>>
>>2228400
I'd imagine that a mold would be the way to go.
>>
>>2228400
You'd want it to be silicone, so a mold is the way to go
>>
>>2228331
This and you can paint fdm parts they look exactly as good. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know how to 3d print.
>>
>>2225415
>Prusa Mini
Mine has finally shipped after ordering it in September. It might arrive Monday. Another printer to play with.
>>
>>2226059
>violently gyrating
H...how accurate are the prints on that thing?
>>
>>2228593
I answered my own question: https://reprap.org/wiki/Simpson
>>
>>2228507
Lmao
Show me an FDM print where the print lines are invisible straight off the plate
>>
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>>2228611
With pleasure.
>>
>>2228643
Not sure how to tell you this anon, but you need glasses.
>>
is it true that fuzzy skin is actually useful
>>
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>>2228643
you're having a fucking LARF mate

Meanwhile:
this is off my Mars fresh out of the box
>>
>>2228670
And the reason why I chose this particular example is that if you look verrrry closely you CAN see the layer contours, here on the side of the eyeball
>>
>>2228611
Sla fumes are a hell of a drug. He said nothing about fresh off the plate, he said you could paint them to make the layer lines invisible.
>>
>>2228673
But he was responding to someone saying the same of SLA, indicating that they were on par with each other
>>
>>2228670
>you're having a fucking LARF mate
says the retard with a ton of blur in their pic, I'd like to see an example of good SLA posted but your picture is shit mate
>>
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>>2228677
I don't have a macro lens so this is the best you'll get
But it doesn't matter really because we can all see that what's happening here is failure to cope
>>
>>2228593
Accuracy doesn't matter when you've got love.
>>
Of course MSLA producers a better surface finish after printing. You're talking typical layer heights of .03-.05 mm vs maybe .15 for FDM. It doesn't make sense to claim otherwise.
>>
So has anyone bought the new adderini crossbow pistol files yet? If so make a torrent :)
>>
>>2228739
I have and i know someone else here has too, im too lazy to figure out how to torrent files and the creator deserves some small shekels for the work he put into it.
Its not that expensive, have you seen how retardedly over priced some things on cults are?
>>
>>2227928
to each his own, but some people get nasty chemical burns where others wouldn't even feel it.
>>
>>2228670
>>2228672
Sorry that's not fresh, that's cured and processed. In any case, it doesn't matter. Fdm printing just passed a new breakthrough in technology.
>>
>>2228806
Sla makes my lungs hurt.
>>
>>2228808
If I took the time to process all of my fdm prints like you are forced to do with sla, all of my fdm prints with look like injection molding. No matter how you spin it, sla is significantly inferior.
>>
>>2228811
That's not even mentioning the problems with uniformity. Sla almost always shrinks funny and warps badly. Which is why every sla model I've seen is always some monster. Easy to hide imperfections.
>>
>>2228812
https://amp.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/cwsj8d/ever_seen_an_almost_successful_001mm10um_layer/

Not my print but this is another example.
>>
>>2228331
>he doesn't know what tumbling is
>>
>>2225415
Have there been any cool upgrades or anything for 3D printing in the last 6 months?
>>
>>2228862
Hot ends are getting way better. 500c hot ends are getting affordable.
>>
>>2228865
Oh cool, any good examples as to what can work with an ender? (yea I know, strapping one of those is like strapping a Ferrari engine to a toyota)

but those exotic filaments used in industry really have some good properties. Much stronger as well, one could print gears and tools that are getting competitive with metal, at least from a price point of view.
>>
>>2228865
what fucking plastic do you use for 500°?
>>
>>2228865
>500c hot ends
Imagine the outgassing and the fumes. Oh yeah. *sniff
>>
>>2228926
imagine the smell
>>
>>2228808
>cured
well yes, that doesn't effect the surface
>processed
like how? sanding? Or maybe I sandblasted it? I didn't touch it, it was one of the first MSLA prints I ever did.

>Sla almost always shrinks funny and warps badly
Your cope is truly unpleasant to witness, please stop posting
>>
>>2228908
PLA at 1000mm/s with 1m accel
>>
Someone give me a QRD on plant-based resin
>>
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what's the recommended way to print prop weapons (ie, swords) in parts on smaller printers? They're not supposed to be used of course so is direction and positioning still important or i can print them however i want? Also to assemble the different parts together should i make pivots with their corresponding holes or just one big tunnel to put a not plastic staff inside it?
>>
>>2226468
Which laser engraver?
>>
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about to start printing my PC case on an ender 3 pro. Designed the parts to account for the dimension limits, but the prints take way too much. The part that houses the mobo IO shield and a 120mm fan (the one with the big circle) takes 12 hour to print, is that normal? All parts shown in picture are 12mm thick.
I'm using a .4mm nozzle with .16 layer height. Anything I can do to make this quicker?
>>
>>2228868
Sorry creality limits temperatures. There's a reason everyone hates creality bromosapian.
>>
>>2229054
Printing with .3 layer height will speed it up. Do you need the parts to have the smooth curves .16 height gives it?
>>
>>2229083
Not really, as you can see its pretty much all flat surfaces on the vertical axis. Do I have to adjust flow or does cura adjust it for me?
>>
>>2228973
It's made using some indeterminate amount of plant byproduct.
>>
>>2229085
Cura does it, just set the layer height to .3 mm.
>>
>>2229054
get bigger nozzle ASAP, wider nozzles means wider extrusion width which means more area is covered with less movement which means mucho rapido

slice it yourself to see but a .6 nozzle should turn 12 hours into 8 at the same layer height. make the layers even thicker than .16 and you can REALLY speed shit up, but you will hit the max flow rate of your printer fast by doing this. with a 1mm nozzle and .5 layers you could probably do the big piece in 2 hours, im not even kidding

otherwise, 12 hours with .4 at .16 sounds very reasonable to me for how big it is
>>
how many of you run octoprint? is it really that worth it?
>>
>>2229190
I'm using octoprint together with a discord chatbot to remote control 3 printers without needing to make my pi's visible to the general internet.
The most use I get out of it is when I want to check on printer status and abort failed prints, to start printing I have to be there in person anyways to do bed leveling/cleaning shit.
>>
>>2229190
I do.
>is it really that worth it?
If you're a lazy bastard like me it is. I can turn on the printer, upload the file and start the print all from my comfy seat. Sometimes I go to check on the first layer but not always because I have ABL.
>>
anybody got luck printing DICE?
i want to print 2 dice for a boardgame prototype im making. its a realy simple sharp edged dice that i plan to use for prototyping and i want to have a mold for crystal d4's cause i like the way they look

i asked /tg/ and they basicaly told me not do do it cause 3d printed dice is shit or if im am to do it i should recast it with resin. unfortunetly that would be a little too expensive since silicon costs a lot in my country

anybody got luck printing dice whitout having to recast? Maybe resin printed dice? are their fair? wont they explode if they fall off the table? will i get cancer if 3d print with resin? is it safe ? will she ever love me?
>>
>>2229227
Printed dice are bad. You will be disappointed with any results that you get.

Resin dice should be the easiest to make marginally fair, printed solid.
>>
>>2229227
It really depends on what you're looking for. If you want a pair to make the game complete so you can show it off, then you could get away with printed dice. If you want to play seriously with people and want it to be actually fair, you're better off buying some dice instead of relying on the printed stuff. They're quite cheap even from local suppliers.
>>
>>2228862
First commercial belt bed printer Kickstarter
Prusa is making an industrial-level Voron
Klipper is gaining prominence
1.75mm is close to becoming the absolute standard size filament
The Form 3L came out
>>
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>>2228987
I print big stuff as hollow as possible (or completely solid if it's a thin part) and then after assembly I slush-coat the inside with resin if it feels like it needs it. I print the parts in a strong orientation when possible for extra strength but that's not always possible

I hate supports, so I cut my model up into parts that won't need support - this sometimes means bisecting the part and printing the flat plane down.

I print in ABS because it's far easier to work with than PLA as far as sanding goes.

I usually don't bother with registering the models together but I am going to start adding filament-diameter holes so I can use filament dowels.
>>
>>2229295
Also, if I was going to do a long sword or staff or sniper rifle, I would definitely use a PVC or metal pipe/conduit for rigidity, strength, and even registration.
>>
>>2227087
>>2227366
That specific printer? Go with something else. Not even joking. I like the Prusa FDM line but their current SLA printer is way overpriced. They supposedly bought a company for their tech and now have to make up for it. My original Anycubic Photon is still working like... 3? years later and the most "maintenance" I've had to do is screw back on the knob because it was getting loose. The things are dead simple. Unless you *need* "professional" prints all the fancy features the SL1 offers are redundant. And even then, I'd spring for a Form 3 over an SL1.

tl;dr current resin printers are almost all the exact same thing and unless your model is known for literally catching on fire or exploding or something, might as well get one. Just don't get the *super* cheap ($100) models, you might regret it.
>>
>>2229288
>1.75mm is close to becoming the absolute standard size filament
I really wish it doesn't disappear completely. As print speeds and filament consumption speeds increase it will be increasingly common to max out the usable RPM of steppers that drive geared extruders. Common drivers can only step so fast and the torque quickly decreases once you leave the low RPM ranges and go over 400RPM.
This may be fine for consumer tier shit now but I expect the 3mm filament to make a comeback in the context of high flow hotends sometime in the future.
>>
>>2229227
I print dice with fdm pla and they print great. You just need to print slowly and 100% infill.
>>
>>2228683
Those eyes, uh, kind of look like horsecocks a little bit.

Nice.
>>
>>2228987
I quite like using pegs and holes to put stuff together
>>
>>2229314
>high flow hotends
3mm would work worse in those. You'd be better off using smaller filament, not larger, because you'd have to dump more heat into the filament if it's thicker to melt the center and thus there'd be a higher temperature gradient/worse temperature control.
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>>2229372
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>>2229380
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>>2229378
dear god, dry yer filament man
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>>2229396
How would you know what one looked like?
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>>2229467
Take a fucking guess, playground genius.
>>
>>2229467
how are you on this website and dont know how one looks like at this point?
>>
>>2229459
ill dry yer mum m8
>>
>>2229532
disgusting, and i thought my prints are shit.
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thing
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>>2229552
post your tpu prints anon
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>>2229054
Don't use raft. If you prepare printing table right, you don't need it. Also, set layer to 0.2. Also, what infil you use, how much %. Some infils print fatster. How thick walls of the part. Does it 100% infil?
>>
>>2229690
No raft, just using a 7mm brim to prevent corners from lifting from the plate, which is the creality glass bed. It's already textured but I'm open to advice on how to make prints stick better especially in this case where prints are going to take a lot of hours.
Infill is 40% triangular, 3 layers for walls and 2 layers for top and bottom. No ironing.
I already tried setting the layer height to .3 as other anons said and its pretty much reduced the time by roughly 40%, but I'm still worried about the strength of the parts since these are going to be functional.
>>
>>2226031
>12 weeks lead time
>>
>>2229561
link?
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>>2229751
should've ordered when it was 6 weeks
>>
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Hey lads, got the task of choosing and buying a 3D printer for prototyping at work, we've been having some stuff printed and their first idea was to "ask the 3D print guy what printer he uses and buy that" but I wanted to consult with you folks.
This is what he's offering us https://www.createbot.net/products/createbot-max-3d-printer-build-size:-280*250*400mm-ID43.html at roughly 2500 USD. Bare in mind we're on a 3rd world country, so my prices might seem expensive than yours.
Is this good for the money? What would you recommend with similar specs? Thanks frens
>>
>>2229857
this is extremely expensive for the price, if $2500 comes with guaranteed support and warranty services then maybe its okay.

Have you tried looking around at what it will cost you to buy a 3d printer yourselves? Getting quotes from other businesses will always result in a greatly inflated pricetag than buying direct or from an actual retailer
>>
>>2229857
You don't want to have a tinker machine if you're doing it for work

Raise printers if you need big build volume
Prusa or Ultimaker for everything else
>>
>>2229860
I mean, that price is what the printer guy gave us but also what this particular printer sells for in other local websites. I wanted to know if you had any insight into this particular model/brand. Every seller offers a 6 month warranty.

>>2229861
I'd say a low volume/prototype kind of prints. Maybe mini versions of the machinery we make as gifts for customers, although I'm aware that for model detail I'd better go resin, FDM is more versatile for our needs. I'm no stranger to finishing up models to make them look as a finished product. After a quick look, the ultimaker within my budget has a too small print area, but the Prusa I3 MK3S looks promising. I'll keep looking, much appreciated.
>>
>>2229936
If it's just for trinkets and not big production models, I would highly recommend the Prusa Mini+. We just bought 13 of them and they have been running constantly with no problems. They were easy to build and worked right out of the box.
>>
>>2229936
>I mean, that price is what the printer guy gave us but also what this particular printer sells for in other local websites. I wanted to know if you had any insight into this particular model/brand.
so if it really isnt a support package cost, then its fucking terrible spec wise from a /diy/ pov. As the other anon pointed out your job might not be a good place to /diy/ a cheaper printer into perfect quality. And that's assuming the $2500 scam is actually perfect and QC'd. desu I have helped install $20-30k cnc machines that were 100% american made and out of the box were shoddy as chink shit.

In my experience from this pov I take the /diy/ approach. Complicated machines need to dialed in most of the time, paying for QC might not always be worth it. You could get a creality cr10v3 for almost a quarter the price and still have a relatively capable printer. If you absolutely need to print nylon or PC however, with the same build volume, youre gonna be SOL without building an enclosure yourself and maybe even upgrading the hot end. all of this would still easily be less than $2500 but it really depends on your job and your skills
>>
Do silicon socks affect adherence?

I gave my printer mainteinance and I accidentaly ripped my sock with the angle cutters, trying to cut leftover filament.

I left it there anyway and my printer does not adhere from one side anymore.
>>
>>2229991
I've run with and without. Some folks claim it helps with PETG and ABS, to wick away the heat from the nozzle. I have not had much luck printing either, with and without the sock, so I don't really know if it helps at all. Perhaps in the inevitable failure, it helps keep the heatblock clean of molten plastic. Might save you from having to replace the heatblock after a catastrophic failure.
>>
>>2229857
Used Ultimaker 2+ models are very good value for money.
>>
>>2229949
the Prusa I3 MK3S seems to be the better option, specially since it's half of what the Creabot one costs.

>>2229968
>but it really depends on your job and your skills
I'm a product designer who's got a technician degree in electronics from high school, I believe I'm capable of going this route, but as you might perceive this is completely new lands for me, and I might not have the time to research and go the /diy/ way, specially since there might be a lack of parts because of my location. Additionally, just like when you fix a relative's PC, any and all subsequent issues are going to be my fault since I was the guy that picked the parts and build the thing.

>>2230018
I had not thought of checking the used market, thanks fren
>>
>>2225415
Hello friends. I'm a beginner looking to get into the exciting world of 3D printing. A couple of questions, if you would be so kind:
1. What printer should I get? I did read the pastebin. I kind of want something with an enclosure though, for aesthetics, noise, etc. and it didn't mention that. I can probably spend £500-800 neetbucks. Ideally I'd like support for printing in extra materials beyond the standard PLA and ABS, if that's a thing. And I want minimal hassle, so auto bed leveling would be nice too.
What do you recommend for me? Should I just get the Ender 3 V2 for ~£200, put a box over it, and get the bed leveling upgrade? Or would a different model be better for me?
2. Is there anywhere I can pirate 3D models from? There are some things I want that are sold on Cults3D as paid items. Where can I download them for free?
>>
>>2230046
The Ender 3 V2 is bredy gud for its worth. For models, check thingiverse.
>>
>>2229991
>>2230010
I've found socks to always be deterimental. They inevitably fall off or snag and just cause a big mess and issues. In the case of something not adhering the to plate and becoming a big blob the sock doesn't protect the heatblock so much as add to the mess.

I've printed tons of stuff with great results without them in PETG and PLA/PLA+ fine.
>>
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>>2230070
>They inevitably fall off
The Chad Volcano big dick condom doesn't.
>>
is there a meshmixer that is just as easy to use(even if it doesn't have many features) but not as prone to crashing? I don't do complicated stuff, i mostly take other people models and slightly change some of it
>>
>>2230070
Ok senpai, i'm going to remove that thing and test print something. I'll get back in a few minutes.
>>
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>>2225415
Is the cr-10 s5 any good? It has a huge print volume (500x500x500) so I'm thinking about getting it to make costume props for cosplaying. Anybody have experience with large printers or the Cr-10 series of printers in general?
>>
>>2230114
I can't advice for the S5 specifically but looking at the specs
>old machine(2017) and out of production
>bed slinger shit, no braces for the Z frame
>no QoL features
>almost 800$
There's a lot of much better stull nowadays. If you can get a used one for 300-400$ then it might be a good deal but otherwise don't.
I've been looking at large printers myself and the TronXY XS5A caught my eye. Sturdy cube frame coreXY, has ABL, uses titan extruders and can do multicolor printing with a mixing hotend. That's a pretty good deal for 850$ if you ask me.
Here's the link if you want to take a look:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32882173644.html
Another option which satisfies my dick more would be to custom spec a Jubilee to a 500*500 bed, but that would be a lot of work on my end because there's a lot of parts that need to be modified and then precision cut by custom part manufacturers. Needless to say this would also end up being very expensive.
>>
>>2230107
Seems to have fixed it. I think the damaged sock was the problem.
I emphasize damaged, can't talk trash about socks because I had been printing with a sock from more than a year now and had no issues.
Might buy a sock when i upgrade my bed.
>>
>>2227741
stainless steel would probably hold up well
>>
So I finished up my first spool and the second one doesn't really work the same.

It's the same brand and same material but different color, is it normal or did i screw something up while loading the new material?
>>
>>2230156
Different colours of the same materials can have different pigments and different chemistries. Hell, with some brands, even different lots of the same material and colour can behave differently. Make sure you've dehydrated it, especially if you're in a humid climate.
>>
>>2229991
I print only in ABS and I've never even heard of a silicone sock
>>
i heard /3dpg/ was full of homophobic chuds is this true
>>
>>2230165
Not at all. Hell, some even print molds for silicon dragon buttplugs the size of a forearm. If you're a faggot you'll fit like a ring on a finger. Or like a butt on a silicon dragon buttplug the size of a forearm.
>>
>>2230165
Yes.
>>
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>>2229227
>anybody got luck printing DICE?
i had pretty good luck with it
i wouldnt use them for anything competitive, but they were fun to print, and came pretty good, except for the shitty hasty paint in the numbers
the orange ones were printed on my ender3, with inland plus pla,
the white ones were printed on my ld-002 with siraya-tech fast
>>2229256
>You will be disappointed with any results that you get.
yeh, totally disappointed here phonefag
>>2229274
most of this
>>2229351
>You just need to print slowly and 100% infill.
this
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>>2230165
Yes we mass produce wheels of friendship, fake ritterkreuz medals and donate single use pistols to the LGBTQIA++ community.
>>
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>>2230181
>donate single use pistols to the LGBTQIA++ community
>>
>>2229705
For flat prints as such, I use no brim or raft at all. Never had issue with corners lifting if I print with PLA. Use brim and sometimes raft only on tall prints with small foundation area. Those get knocked of if no brim or raft pressent. But for PLA, printing big flat parts, warping isnt an issue. At all. Use standart ender 3 mat. It's carbon or whatever. Had no problem with it at all. All I do, clean it, level bed and that's it. As for cleaning, I told many times, get table to 80C use some failed part of same material to scrub leftovers on the table. Works like rubber, sort of. After that, I remove mat, get to the sink and apply thin layer of totth paste, prefferably without granules. Wait few minutes, wash it of with hot water, dry and that's it. PLA and PETG stick like crazy, actually I have more problems to carefully remove such big flat parts not scratching the mat or busting the print, because they sit like set in stone, sort of. For ABS can't really say, my printer is in my bedroom, have no other place to put it, no enclosure, so ABS is done only if I really need it, whitch is almost never, PETG covers it pretty nicely. As for infill, 40% is ok I gues, triangle also, thou it's not the fastest type of infil to use, but I think it's most optimal for material expenditure and strength. Actually it's little matter for strenght, how thick print walls, determine it's structural strength. But I digress, anyway, 0.2 I think it's optimal in case of print speed/qualitty. Triangle infill good to. Just make thing stick better. As for long print times, it's probably inevitable.
>>
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my biggest project so far
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Adding a 2nd z lead screw to my ender 3 so I also picked up some spider coupler (the ones with each half aren't physically attached so axial movement shouldn't get transferred to the z height.) since I heard they're a little better and I'd have the printer apart anyway I figured I'd swap them while I was adding the leadscrew.

I received them and there's like zero play along the axis. It's practically rigid. I'm able to pull them apart with just my fingers but it takes some effort. I can't see these achieving what people get them for when it comes to printers since they're practically solid couplers at the forces the printers work at.

Should these be prepped a certain way or something first? Are these defective? Or is this one of those things where this is a solution that's overkill for these machines but people do it anyway just to pimp their machines out?
>>
>>2229834
Man can hesitate buying a 1200€ printer kit which doesn't include all necessary parts, is finicky to build and has a multi-month waiting time.
But it still seems like the best option for a non bed-slinging semi-large volume printer in the EU, so I just might do it.
>>
>>2229561
From the thumbnail I thought it was a tiny little accordion. Would have been better if it was.
>>
>>2230454
an accordion would make for a cool compliant print in place part, anyone got a model?
>>
>>2230114
>500x500
>bed is moving
Absolute madmen, can't imagine how shit that thing prints at high speed.
>>
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>>2230289
Based. Is that your own model or a public one?
>>
>>2230507
Yeah, this was big build area in 2017. Large bedslingers are slowly falling out of favor nowadays.
>>
>>2230515
its the public one, theres no way I could make my own
>>
>>2230573
Could you point me to it? I've seen quite a few, but not one that looks exactly like yours.
>>
>>2230594
???
https://legolini.com/adderini_pistol.php
>>
>>2230622
Oh it's that. Sorry friend, I didn't recognise it.
Have you seen the XOSlingshot? I wonder how the two compare.
>>
>>2230623
yes, I noticed that too, very coincidental for that to come out at the same time....
it doesnt look anywhere near as polished as the adder
>>
>>2230114
It was significant when it was released, but only for its build size. Nowadays it's outdated, not rigid enough, a bad idea (bed slinger at such a size) and underpowered. Try and imagine how long a 500x500 bed will take to heat up with just 12V.
CR-10S' and ender 3s are great for the ability to massively mod and upgrade them with a huge community supporting them, but with that said, don't pay more that $150 for that one. It's rare you'll need a bed that large, most of the time it'll be an inconvenience and if you're willing to accept a smaller printer, you can get a better one brand new for a similar price.
>>
I lost my sd card for my printer and only have a few 128gbs and 64gbs laying around. What are my options.
>>
>>2230676
print a gun and shoot it, its over
>>
>>2230676
1. Use the 64GB one.
2. Buy a new one.
3. Buy a Pi and upgrade to octoprint or klipper.
>>
>>2230676
If you have to ask this then your printer is wasted on you.
>>
>>2228081
print reusable mold, seal with beeswax, pour silicone, repeat.
>>
>>2230676
Buy a 8gb one in a store maybe?
>>
>>2230703
>going outside
its okay Id rather not catch the zombie virus
>>
>>2225415
Oh hey my shitty pikachu made the OP image. I'm flattered.
>>
>>2230686
Printpill me on Klipper. I've seen a lot of videos about it but I'm still kinda on the fence on whether I want to reflash everything. What's its most beneficial feature?
>>
>>2230784
to be fair almost every print thats shared here makes the OP since people barely post their own pics here
>>
>>2230796
well first the real question is are your trying to upgrade/push higher speeds on your printer? I think most people with a bedslinger dont have much to gain from klipper other than potentially input shaping.

basically if youre ever doing anything that involves compiling firmware, you better off flashing klipper so that you never have to worry about dumb firmware limitations ever again. no more compiling with klipper, changing any setting is a breeze and unlocked. and its has the whole avenue for rice/print cams/botnet
>>
>>2230887
Honestly I just see it being hyped as the next big thing and I was wondering if that had any merit to it. The input shaping does look nice though.
>>
>>2230887
>most people with a bedslinger dont have much to gain from klipper other than potentially input shaping
Unlike Marlin, Klipper can use linear advance with the Creality silent boards..
>>
>>2230796
No idea, I upgraded mine to a duet board.
>>
Can anyone tell me why im getting these weird lines on my prints? They aren't little blobs, looks more like material missing
>>
>>2231107
You talking about the banding or those little dark spots?
>>
>>2231108
I was talking about the little dark spots, but if you can tell me how to fix banding also that would be great
>>
>>2231111
The banding is a motion issue that I'm guessing is caused by the Z screw; get some silicon grease and lube it. As for the spots, it could be a coasting issue.
>>
>>2231113
Thanks bro, how do I fix the coasting issue?
>>
>>2230267
I had a LOT of cases of corners just lifting up from the plate, thats why i have to use a brim. I Upped the bed temp to 75 since I'm using the glass bed which has a higher thermal capacity than the standard one, and I've set the hot end at 200°C. Not much I can do about it, since i HAVE to use a glass bed because the bed was already warped out of the box
Also I cant print on the standard ender 3 pro removable mat since the bed came warped from factory.
>>
>>2231115
Check your slicer settings to make sure it's either turned off or dialled in. Beyond that I'm not sure, try increasing your print temp a little.
>>
>>2231111
>>2231113
idk if the banding is really a z screw problem, it looks more like he has adaptive quality on and thats its changing layer size based on the print. im assuming its a calibration cube mostly because ive seen so many of them with those lines in those spots specifically because its where the letters start and end

also your elephants foot is horrific, what are you temp settings and filament? im guessing 200/65 with pla? if your bed level/z offset isnt completely fucked then you have to be absolutely roasting that plastic for it to sag like that

or shit maybe it really is a Z problem, but Id like to see banding on multiple prints in the same spot to prove it
>>
>>2227637
About as strong and stiff as polycarbonate, but brittle enough that that's the limiting factor for many applications. More subject to creep under load than other plastics. Good for high intermittent loading like with press dies.

https://youtu.be/wsxFXTKaXdI

For a lot of applications, its weakness to shocks, bending, and heat make other plastics preferable, but it does shine in some structural applications.
>>
>>2228908
"Superpolymers" like PEEK and PEI which can be used for things like direct replacements of aluminum parts.
>>
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Hey guys, I need help getting a birthday present for my roommate with a printer.

He has a Creality CR-10 V2 and he's made some cool prints with it but the"ridges" are kind of wide and noticable. He said it's because the little ejector bit where the material comes out isn't narrow enough to do finer detail prints.

Can I buy him something for relatively cheap that would improve the quality of his prints?

Also, anything that you would recommend at all would also be appreciated.
>>
>>2231205
yeah smaller diameter nozzles 0.4mm is standard so anything less than that, you can buy packs of brass nozzles for cheap
also maybe something like a bltouch or new control board (SKR or whatever)
>>
>>2231205
he would really appreciate a nozzle kit from amazon that has every size, smaller and bigger. theres also lots of 3d printing tool kits that would make good gifts as well
>>
Is 3D printing strong enough to make a crossbow? Not a slingshot bow like was linked earlier but a full size crossbow with powerful bow limbs. I see plenty of people making slingshot bows, or magazines and other attachments for existing crossbows, but I've never seen anyone print the frame for a proper crossbow. Would it break under the pressure of drawing back the bow limb?
>>
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I have no idea how to read these things. Could use some help figuring out what I need to change.
>>
>>2231234
There's several videos on Youtube of 3D-printed crossbows, so it's possible, but I'd still use stronger materials for the most crucial parts.
>>
>>2226031
voron, annex engineering, ratrig, snakeoil-xy are all fine, annex engineering cross gantry is interesting though.

I plan to build a voron tiny m, maybe snakeoil-xy later.
>>
Long story short, I need to print myself a bearing cage. What material should I use? It's for a bike headset, so there won't be much speed or heat involved.
>>
>>2231314
Metal.
>>
>>2231316
Most cheap bearings have plastic cages. All they do is space out the balls.
>>
My first layers adhere correctly, but I'm having issues with the top layers.

Left something printing overnight and the bottom part was pretty well printed, the top was a bunch of strings.

I had already printed that model succesfully previously.

I raged and threw it all to shit, will take pictures of next failed print kek

Any ideas? I aligned my bed and X axis to the best of my knowledge.
>>
reminder that fags use vorons
>>
>>2231314
>>2231319
Ideal material would be Delrin, but that's supposedly a gigantic hassle to print. Nylon / polycarbonate (no reinforcement fibers) would probably be the best of the common plastics for their abrasion resistance, but with such a light-duty use case, you might be able to get a reasonable life with PETG / ABS / ASA. Even PLA might hold up mechanically, but a bike in sunlight can get hot enough to soften PLA.
>>
>>2231345
Printer model / filament material / printing parameters? Also, it's often possible to recover failed prints.
https://youtu.be/-wjE8eDiKWg
>>
>>2231345
we really need pics to know, not every model has the same "top" ya feel me?
>>
>>2231319
>Most cheap bearings
You shouldn't use a cheap bearing for a headset. The forces transmitted through the front fork can be quite high.
>>
>>2231427
And those forces pass through the ball bearings, not the cage.
>>
>>2231433
The cage has to keep the balls separate though, if parts of bearing are not precisely machined the cage will wear and make it worse. Seen that in some machines.
>>
holy shit, i got feeler gauges and it's like 10x easier to level the bed accurately
>>
>>2231444
you might just be retarded.
>>
>>2231453
why is that
>>
>>2231454
Were you using paper before?
>>
>>2231461
yes
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>>2231481
Did it go something like this?
https://youtu.be/lL3Gmy4hh3Y
>>
>>2231444
lmao no its exactly the same except you're also risking fooling yourself
>>
>>2231436
That's an issue with the raceways, not the cage, and whether it is present or not does not depend on what the cage is made of. And the headset of a bike is a rather low-cage-wear use case for a bearing.
>>
>>2231484
>disabling stepper
yeah stopped watching right there, maybe you should actually link to a non retarded person
>>
>>2231488
What, you leave the steppers engaged when you manually move the axes?
>>
>>2231486
paper tends to deform, its harder to consistently slide it under the nozzle, and the nozzle carves into the paper and makes lines on the paper, plus paper collects fillament ink when you do it while its heated and then you have to throw it out.

feeleer gauges are metal so they stay the same shape, you can hold it easily, its stiff so you dont look if the paper curls or some random bullshit, you just get a consistent feel, and you can just wipe away the fillament.

Its the exact tool for the job, paper is just a cheap replacement when you dont have anything better.
>>2231490
it disables the Z stepper motor too, and its piss easy to lower it accidentally, ruining the entire point of leveling the bed.
>>
Frens,

Quick question. I have been 3D printing for about a month using a Longer LK1. Chinkshit but it was a gift. I have had many successful prints but until tonight have only used a single spool of PLA. Well, the time finally came where I ran out of filament and it happened mid-print.

Upon running out of filament, my printer paused the print and popped a notification. I figured inserting new filament would be easy: put it into the little hole and through the gear and the circle and it would go through the white tube and out the hot end. Turns out that isn't working like I thought. There seems to be a jam two inches or so into the white tube. I inserted the little needle thing and tried to break anything up, but the filament still won't budge far into the tube. What do I do?
>>
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>>2231508
Okay anons,

I unscrewed the white tube and pulled the remaining filament out from there. Following that, my new filament fed right in and extruded just fine.

pic unrelated
>>
>>2231490
Use a gcode file like this dude instead of moving the motors manually.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA
>>
anything good to print out lately? I already did the squid game mask
>>
>>2231554
that new pistol crossbow seems to be pretty neato, or just print your 10th baby yoda or something
>>
>bough BLTouch some time ago
>installed a glass bed
>realize my previous bed was all warped
>my bed leveling skills are good enough
>BLTouch is sitting on a shelf somewhere
>>
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I have the power of gun
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>>2228588
>Prusa
I finally assembled my printer. It is awesome
>>
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>>2228588
>After ordering it in September
Damn, anon, almost a year lead ti-
>realize it's mid-october
>of 2021
>>
>>2231295
Pretty sure you're looking for balanced line widths and features. For example, the exposed lines and unexposed valleys in the lower section should be equal-width at each midpoint. Same goes for that middle thing; I want to say it's supposed to converge to a point in the center. Your result looks pretty overexposed.
>>
>>2231205
If the problem is layer lines he just needs to use a smaller layer height. It has nothing to do with the nozzle.
If the problem is a repeating banding pattern up the side of the print, he had a axis issue which is likely either a bent z screw(straighten or replace) or binding in the z screw (lube).
>>
>>2231495
okay and what did you set your datum as with the feeler gauge?
>and its piss easy to lower it accidentally
im pretty sure there's actually something wrong with you. you really cant be ginger enough with it? are your bed level knobs actually thumbscrews or something?
>>
>>2231760
>bed level knobs
>talking about z stepper motor being lowered by accident
are you retarded?
try disabling steppers and rest your hand on the hotend and watch it drop like a stone
congrats, this is what happens when you move your hotend left and right when you level your bed by disabling steppers

i set my datum by swipping the feeler gauge across the nozzle until i feel the same resistance when going across on all 4 points
It actually being metal and not paper it's going to have a consistent feel every time, where paper feels like it's not consistent at all
The actual force doesn't matter because my bed is warped and i can always set my z offset to something lower or higher
>But that's not consistent
Mechanics around the world can get a torque right by just feel, you can tell what kind of text you got by the vibration of your phone, you completely can get consistent force, but not by paper which as i've said, crumples and deforms and gets lines carved into them through use
>>
>>2231772
>and rest your hand on the hotend
or just dont do this? hahahaha you have to be trolling. seriously if you cant move the hotend without moving your Z then either your shits too lose or you are 100% retarded.
>some gay paragraph that didn't answer my question
its important to consider the thickness of the feeler gauge because you're setting the datum of the printer when you "level the bed". The slicer is always expecting datum to be extremely close to 0, as in contacting the bed. So initial layer height is precisely what you set it to be. If you aren't using an extremely thin feeler gauge you're probably adding a lot of z-offset on accident. The paper method is more accurate in this regard because compressing the paper means you're actually getting the datum closer to 0 lol.

You think you know stuff about mechanics or engineering but really you don't know WHY those things are done or WHAT they/you are actually doing.
>>
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>>2225415
i want to get a sla printer for a current project, budget around 200€
what are the attributes i have to look out for or are they all basically the same?
looking at the anycubic photon mono atm since its a tad cheaper than the mars2pro and the creality
>>
>>2231795
Around that price point they're basically the same. You definitely want monochrome anyway. Read reviews rather than specs, the differences are going to be less quantifiable things like build quality, ease of use, customer care.
>>
>>2231784
>Don't do this thing on accident bro
well i don't like taking chances and it has happened before, so why take the risk?

>The slicer is always expecting datum to be extremely close to 0, as in contacting the bed.
>What is z-offset in the software
i use a 0.2mm gauge, i set the z offset in the jyers software as 0.2mm
ergo, when it prints, it knows it's supposed to go 0.2mm lower
If my initial layer is basically double layer height as you say, why is it correctly sticking then?

>You think you know stuff about mechanics or engineering but really you don't know WHY those things are done or WHAT they/you are actually doing.
You sound like you listen what people tell you on youtube videos and refuse to even think of a possibility of an alternative way.
>>
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>>2231372
>>2231406
Ender 3
Hatchbox white pla
Pics 1 and 2: hotend 200 degrees, bed 50 degrees
Pics 3 and 4: hotend 210 degrees, bed 50
>>
>>2231508
>>2231529


Anons,

Me again. The swap over to Tough PLA is complete and I finished my last print, but I cannot get Tough PLA to adhere to my bed whatsoever. I have tried many different times now, using temperatures of 210, 215, and 220 on a glass bed with a layer of painter's tape. Bed temp is 60. Speed of initial layer varied anywhere from 60-100%. I have leveled the bed three times now. When my print begins, the filament immediately loops back up to the nozzle. I am very lost and currently unable to proceed with my prints. What do I do?
>>
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How do you get rid of bulging corners like this? The rest of the print looks good, but the corners are raised the entire way. Also, is there a way to control the outline speed in Cura? I was thinking that could help.
>>
Why does my SKR mini V2 not give 5v output where it should? checked with a multimeter, and both the TFT and Z-probe 5v/gnd do not give 5v.
Since I'm running klipper+fluid on a rpi0, i got the 5v to power up the rpi from the screen pins. But I feel like this is not a real solution, and also feel like I'm missing something here
>>
>>2231932
This is due to the bowden setup, increasing jerk and dialing in the retraction could help but you can never really remove it without a direct drive
>>
>>2231932
Outline speed in cure is called Outside Wall speed
>>
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Some dude is selling an unused CR-5S nearby. Is it a dumb idea to buy it? It sort of looks all right but there's really not a lot of information circulating around about this particular model.
>>
>>2231956
Does that still apply if I'm using a direct drive extruder?
>>2231957
Thanks
>>
>>2231960
Technically yes, it happens because the pressure in the hotend is too high and the speed of the X/Y axis is too slow for the change for the machine to stop suddenly

It's one of the reasons i avoid flat corners when making stuff on the xy axes
>>
>>2231892
>Speed of initial layer varied anywhere from 60-100%
try 15mm/s, also make sure your bed is actually level
>>
>>2231892
Try with a raft in your adhesion settings and make it just 1 layer
>>
>>2231873
Any tips? Bottom adhesion is great, my bed is leveled and so is my X gantry.

For the first print i lowered by feed rate because the printer was vibrating like a mofo, could that have caused the adverse effect?
>>
>>2231978
I normally print with a brim at least. I swapped the Tough PLA out for normal PLA, releveled, and it's working okay now. Any advice on how to properly level a bed? Before, I have leveled using a sticky note and call it good when there is tension/grip on the note but it can still move mostly free. Also, what do I need to do to print Tough PLA versus normal PLA?
>>
>>2231981
>>2231873
wow, um try 220-230. your layer adhesion is absolutely terrible, that part looks like a really bad abs print, not even remotely like PLA. Maybe you actually got a bad batch of filament cause I have never had PLA warp and pull apart like that on me. hatchbox is probably blended with ABS and they OD'd on it with that spool is my bet

You probably can get prints out of it but you may need to turn temps way up, and maybe even turn cooling down/off if its super warpy. dont expect good quality
>>
>>2232000
Dude, thanks, I'm a huge retard, it is an ABS filament, I just realized that, I was convinced it was PLA, damn feel like a dumbass kek.

Props to your eye dude you know your stuff.
>>
>>2231810
>You sound like you listen what people tell you on youtube videos and refuse to even think of a possibility of an alternative way.
nigger fuck you I asked you questions and then you avoided them, then decided to only later answer them probably after you've corrected your own retardation. Good for you that you manually apply a z offset to compensate for the specific guage. Most people here aren't smart enough to do that, and I don't think you really ever were to begin with.
>>
>>2231959
How much for?
>>
Posted like 2 months ago about a 10$ 3Dtouch clone (yeah, clone of a clone).
Finally arrived and I got it set up, it seems to be pretty solid. How do I get some "test results" so I can post here for you lads?
>>
>>2231932
Higher jerk and linear/pressure advance.
>>
Why is white PLA a nightmare to print with
I swear black PLA isn't this bad
>>
>>2231959
>buying a used china 3d printer
Be extremely careful

But for the right price it's worth taking a chance on
>>
kinda bored
Gimme something to print, /3dpg/
>>
>>2232198
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1035128103
>>
What are some steel Ender 3 nozzles that aren't total garbage? There only seems to be really high end ones, or ones that clog all the time.
>>
>>2232094
Its unused, new in box.
>>2232023
It's 500€
>>
>>2231602
Honestly if you spend the time, a bltouch can hold you back. I have an ender 6 and it moves in 0.1 mm increments and that's not good enough. If you use klipper you can get more control than that but it's so much extra work. Just give me a piece of paper.
>>
>>2231959
Creality.... Yikes... Be careful
>>
>>2231873
Have you cleaned your bed with vinegar or ammonia?
>>
I have a spool of ASA but looking back I'm not entirely sure what its advantages over pla are besides better uv resistance. Is there any other benefit?
>>
>>2232425
It's tougher / more flexible and has better heat resistance (than non-annealed PLA).
>>
>>2232425
It's basically ABS but UV resistant. Almost everything you know about ABS carries over. Warping seems to be a bit less than ABS but it can still warp quite well.
>>
>>2231988
I just watch the first layer and tweak each knob a tiny bit up or down to get my level exactly right
>>
>>2232446
>>2232488
Thanks friends.
>>
>>2232377
Don't buy it
>>2232363
Just get a hemera
>>
New thread:

>>2232768
>>
>>2231234
https://legolini.com/adderini_pistol.php
>>
>>2231772
>congrats, this is what happens when you move your hotend left and right when you level your bed by disabling steppers
You absolutely have to be a special kind of retard if you can't level like this without fucking with the z-axis.
Stop being a pedant for fun of it.
Also, paper is fucking fine, are you just saying shit for the fun of it?
>>
>>2233253
I'm saying its 10x easier, people were talking shit like it's not better when it is

It adds a possibility of error, that's why i don't like it.



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