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Last Thread: >>2193281

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Prusa Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.
>>
>>2201299
Did someone print a 40k purity seal?
>>
What is the slipperiest material I can use for my dragon dildos?
>>
>>2201379
depends. Teflon is the usual answer, but it's soft and harder materials with sharp corners can snag in it.
Might want to go with glass.
>>
>>2201383
Is there an easy way to print my glass dragon dildos yet?
>>
>>2201379
The best option is printing a model in order to create a proper silicone mold for the final product.
>>
>>2201379
Print a mold for it, smooth it out, fill it with a combination of Smooth-On Dragon Skin and a stiffer silicone and go to town. Don't print them directly.
>>
>>2201385
theoretically speaking isnt a glass 3d printer entirely feasible?
>>
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Made a few appendages for my soldering stand. It's ABS so I think it will be fine. I'm never going to stop 3d printing.
>>
>>2201703
Apparently a few have done it.
>>
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failedmoonprint-anon here
turns out there were clogups i barely saw, so i need a new print anyway
bit of a shame but at least i know it works
>>
Shill me a plug and play all metal Ender 3 replacent hotend.
Nothing super fancy, something that just werks.
I'm so tired of my stock one doing partial clogs because of some misallignment
>>
>>2201787
BAnon here, still haven't tried my V6 because I'm missing the 6-to-10pin adapter for the SPI programmer to flash the board to use the new sensor.
>>
>>2201797
I don't want to reflash anything, just a plug and play replacement
>>
>>2201821
You could use your existing sensor if I'm not wrong
>>
>>2201385
Glass can shatter oof...
>>
Dremel 3D45 y/N?
>>
anyone got a good dildo model?
>>
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>>2201919
https://github.com/IkarosKappler/extrusiongen
>>
if anybody ever feels retarded at least you didn't do what I did
>buy cheap overture PETG
>struggle with getting it to adhere ever
>try using painters tape
>tape will lift away from bed when its adhesive burns off on longer prints
>finally get PEI sheet
>still no adhering
>lather sheet in glue sticks
>still a 50/50 if it'll adhere
>realize the black sheet in every box of filament is an adhesive print surface they include that's made explicitly to help it adhere
>no more adhesion issues
>>
>>2201977
Honestly PETG kind of sucks. People shill it all the time but I've never seen a real benefit from it
>sands shittily like PLA
>PITA to stick to things like ABS
>strings like a motherfucker
But apparently the selling points are that it doesn't warp and uses PLA temperatures to print.
>>
>>2201983
I don't have many issues sanding it honestly, it doesn't melt on me like PLA does
but I always hear how it adheres so well you should coat glass beds even because it can rip chunks out and I've literally been unable to get it to adhere reliably until using this surface they provided
but I mainly went with it because I have my printer in my room without great ventilation and it's supposed to be the least dangerous in terms of fumes n shit
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>>2201933
This easily done in blender with a few modifiers.
>>
>>2201999
That's nice and all, but that tool doesn't require learning to model, it just lets you dick around with some shapes and make phallic objects with an easily-accessible interface; or at least, did last time I heard of it
>>
>>2201985
>how it adheres so well you should coat glass beds even because it can rip chunks out
That's not because it adheres well specifically, but because glass and PETG are chemically compatible to where the PETG can straight-up bond to the glass. Most other materials don't actually bond, they just stick due to the surface due to physical properties (e.g. the liquid plastic grabs onto various irregularities and imperfections in the print surface) until they cool at different rates and peel away from each other
>>
>>2201983
I find petg sticks better than PLA does on my creality non-stick glass. Shit never warps unlike PLA which moves around like a mothafucka. I usually run it at 250c 70c and its flawless.

Also yeah it does string but if you calibrate e-steps and then retraction you'll be set. petg defintiely needs different values than PLA and it defintely flows more like liquid where as pla is more paste like
>>
>>2201906
>Dremel 3D45
absolutely not, you could get three flash forges for the cost of this thing, its pretty obviously the same design, but doesn't even have dual extruders lol
>>
In your opinion is a Slice Mosquito worth it if you are building a Voron 2.4?
>>
so a question
I bought a new heated bed AND a new build plate just to be double sure I can try to fix my warped bed issues, the heated bed replacement hasn't arrived but the plate did
if I stick the new plate on the potentially warped old heated bed do I risk warping this new glass plate?
>>
>>2201906
Seems a bit over priced. Go for it and let us know how good it is. For $1600 it better come with dragon dildos on the sd card.
>>
>>2202118
Depends. It's an upper mid range hot end. It gets the job done. I'm partial to the MakerBot assembly myself if I'm spending that much money. I've used both interchangeably and the mosquito is no slouch but it can be finicky to get setup properly. You need to really fine tune retraction settings with a mosquito moreso than MakerBot smart end. It's definitely a fast hotend, but it's not for noobs.
>>
>>2201983
Doesn't string if you use an enclosure where you can drop to 30% air moisture and use a filament dryer.

Stronger than PLA and resists weather better.
>>
>>2201787
IIRC the only plug and play variant is Microswiss one, I got one and it is kind of ok and works. Uses the same mounting, heater and thermistor as the stock one. Pay attention to the assembly instructions, especially when you heat it to 250 and tighten the nozzle - it did leak on the nozzle side once.
The cons: its titanium heatbreak may work worse with PLA (it will stick to it on excessive retractions), so modding a direct may be recommended.
>>
>>2202193
>Stronger than PLA and resists weather better.
If you're going through the trouble of making a moisture-regulated enclosure and drying the filament, at that point, why not just use ABS, since, well, you've got a regulated enclosure?
>>
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So my Creality CR-10s is now having intermittent negative shifts to the x-axis. This defect has only appeared since I caught my girlfriends kitten climbing all over it.

Any ideas on how to solve this?
>>
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>>2202208
There's not too many color options for ABS and I don't have the venting complete for it. Really an enclosure of any type that allows for a little convection to remove moisture is going to be enough to drop to 30%, mine isn't sealed, just some plexiglass sheets and MDF/melamine slapped together. I use a filament dryer with any type of filament because it 100% helps to remove stringing more than anything else. Versatility of polyethylene is beyond many other materials anyway.
>>
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>>2201299
I really didn't want to be the kind of guy who posted in these threads asking for help, but I'm so close to my limit.

>Printer: AnyCubic Photon Mono X
>Resin: Grey AnyCubic Craftman
>Slicer: Lychee, 60-80% Power, settings attached (Copied them from a Google Doc that I see everywhere in Mono X Communities)

I've had the printer for almost two months, and have done about 60 prints, all of which have failed because the resin gets stuck to the FEP in the vat. I've sanded the baseplate, use WD-40 on the film, shake the resin bottles before use, keep the room about 15C, and no matter what I end up with the resin attached to the bottom of the vat. Sometimes the baseplate is empty and everything is in the vat, other times the print tears off the supports and stays on the FEP, and a few times the model has split in two with half on the FEP and half still on the plate. I relevel the baseplate every few days, and this happens whether the model is solid, or hollowed with holes to prevent suction. I've gone through 4 replacement FEP sheets already because the resin is cured onto the sheet so hard that it cannot be removed (except in one case where it tore the FEP when it came off). I've watched endless videos on TOP 10 REASONS YOUR PRINTS STICK TO YOUR FEP, have implemented everything, and nothing has changed.

I knew going in that it was a learning experience that takes time, so I'm not mad about it, but it is getting exhausting. Is there any really obvious thing I'm missing that can help me out here?
>>
>>2202229
have you even checked your belt tension yet? fingers crossed the kitty didnt tear up ur belt
>>
>>2202238
so I will say that we have some SLA anons in this thread, but you might find more help for resin prints in this thread >>>/tg/81167111

I only know SLA in theory and have no experience but have you tried other resins? and have you looked up anyone else's exposure settings with your specific printer?
>>
>>2202250
Ive tried two different resins with the same problems. This one is quite affordable when I buy it in bulk so I’m hoping I can keep using it. I started at 50%, but had nothing stick to the plate. I usually use 80% now because at least I have stuff staying on the plate, and the prints that are closest to working are on those settings.

I’ll check out the other thread, thanks.
>>
what have you been printing lately anons?

heres my first attempt at the moon came out well, idk why its so messy though, seems like my retraction is too aggressive somehow, still im happy with it
>>
>>2202402
is it hollow?
t. that lit up moon guy
>>
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>>2202402
>what have you been printing lately anons?
Nothing because I just found out that the jolly merchant cancelled my delivery so I had to buy it again so I'm waiting again:
>>2201797
>>
>>2202429
its solid, I print with a 0.8mm nozzle most of the time and none of the hollow ones would play nice when sliced. desu im happy with it being solid though, it feels really nice, I could definitely yeet it like a softball.
>>
>>2202432
Couldn't you just use some jumper wires?
>>
>>2202238
>60-80% Power
What? Crank that shit up to 100 and stop fucking around.
Relevel your bed. Use a sheet of paper, at z level zero it should be clamped solid like your mom on my dick. Crank your room temp up to 20C (resin doesn't like the cold), shake the ever loving shit out of the resin before pouring it into the vat.
>grey resin
Shake it again mother fucker and try to only pour in enough for the print; grey resin separates from the pigment like a nigger from his bastard child.
Since you've replaced the FEP, check that it ISN'T stupidly tight, it does need a little bit of flex so that the print can peel.
Reduce your burn in layers to 5, you're just wasting time otherwise.
Reduce your burn in time to 30.

And finally....
CHANGE YOUR LIFTING SPEED TO mm/MINUTE!
Holy fuck! 1mm/s is 60mm/m, no wonder you're ripping shit off the bed. Try 25.
>>
>>2202459
I tried rattailing two ribbon cables to no avail: >>2197958
My electronics junkbox doesn't have individual jumper cables or connectors. I should acquire a kit soon if my country doesn't collapse this Sunday.
>>
>>2202466
>if my country doesn't collapse this Sunday.
Time to act like OnlyAfro and immigrate to the US. Dude escaped venezula right before it all went to shit in 2013 and now hes happily living as a streamer and still shitposts on /vg/.
>>
>>2202470
Don't worry anon. Unlike Venezuela, Argentina will never hit rock bottom.
We will always find a way to dig deeper.
>>
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>>2202432
The merchant is retarded, but at least this time it should be right
>>
>>2202604
So. I currently have an Ender 3 with an e3d v6 hotend, stock Melzi 1.1.4 board with stock firmware, a Raspi3b with OctoPrint, a Linux workstation with a couple versions of the Arduino IDE and a USBasp dongle that almost talk amongst themselves. Anybody with a similar setup has any tips for how should I go about upgrading it? Is it mandatory that I should flash a bootloader?
>>
What do people think of the voron v0.1?

Are Voron bros just stupid? I’m itching to build a new printer, thought it was an intriguing build at the cost. But the more I looked at it the more I realized I could buy a Rep 1 clone for half the price with twice the build area.

Sure, it’s not as fast as their “little space ship” is, but there’s plenty of faster printers out there. I can build a Jubilee, albeit with one tool probably, for the cost of a V2.4

TLDR, Vorons are just a movement of circle jerking redditors, with some clever marketing right?
>>
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>>2202693
>>2202604
>>
>>2202706
Did he really say that about the press?
>>
>>2202775
giyf
>>
>>2202706
Vorons are what you get when you let motion system engineers design an entire printer.
As expected, the motion system is great, but the mosquito hotend is a letdown, part cooling can't keep up and it uses a printed belt driven extruder.
If you want to circlejerk over XY feedrates on dry runs, you're welcome to get a Voron. If you actually want to print that fast, you should either design your own toolhead for it or look at another printer.
Jubilee makes more economic sense because the basic toolhead is designed to be a V6+BMG, which are easier to find and you can get good ones for cheap from ali. I wouldn't worry too much about having only one tool, you can always add more when you have the cash to spare. The only problem with jubilee is sourcing the extrusions. Voron extrusion kits are all over the place, while I've yet to find a place that sells a complete set of jubilee extrusions.
>>
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XZHfUy5PB4

>>2202706
>look it can go 1000mm/s!!!!!
And yet most of the parts I see come off of them are simple geometry or test parts. It's an overly-expensive piece of machinery made by circlejerking elitists is what I think. There's way better machines both in the sense of productivity per dollar spent and bang-for-the-buck.
>>
>>2202804
>1000mm/s and it still looks like it's printing fuckall
Fucking lmao @ voronlets who can't into large nozzles
>>
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What's the usual cause or this? I'm getting rough bumpy surface. My prints were generally perfect before and the other day I had a failed print that was printing nothing half way through, I saw the grabber gear that grabs the filament slipped up, so I put it back in position and tightened it down. Did I not tighten it enough? Or is that unrelated?
>>
Im getting tired of tinkercads limitations, what the next easiest to learn program?
>>
>>2202919
Any programming experience?
If so, you might take to OpenScad.

Here's a 1x1x1 cube with a 0.5 hole in it for reference:
Difference(){
cube(1);
translate([ 0.5, 0.5, 0]) cylinder(d=0.5, h=1);
}
>>
Any of you ever tried making molds for plastic injection?
>>
>>2202942
I've done molds for silicone injection, if that's at all relevant, and know a bunch about plastics and mold design in general, if that helps.
>>
>>2202903
clean the hobs. if the teeth are full of stripped filament it won't grab.
>>
>>2202775
Yes, but he was implying the rich establishment. The jews got really self conscious about it though.
>>
anons please help my printer is dying
it has been working perfectly for 2 years now, i don't print a lot, just few times a month, but now two times in a row somewhere randomly during a print the nozzle simply stops extruding but the printer is still moving as if it's still moving, so i thought it was clogged nozzle and tried pushing fillament in by hand and it came out just fine so i started the print again and it happened again (at a different layer than before)
what is going on?
>>
>>2203101
is your extruder even moving trying to push the filament?


Also what printer is it?
>>
>>2202706
If you have a massive hotend that is actually capable with high print speeds, you'd usually want a huge bed and use that for large scale prints, rather than making tiny parts at ridiculous speeds and the awful dimensional accuracy that comes with it.
>>
>>2203101
Try a different print to make sure it isn't your Gcode.
>>
>>2203101
Check if there is a cable break. If it's not fully broken it is hard to catch, because sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, even though cable might be in the same position.
Check drivers if they are overheating, or heatsink has fallen of or if there is a fan if it works.
Also check the fan on hotend.
>>
Hey all, I bought a cheap Chinese Prusa Mendel i2 a few years back when I was a dumb teenager, needless to say the circuit board broke and I never fixed it.

I dug it out of my parents basement a couple of days ago and have been thinking of getting it up and running, I plan to replace the circuit board with a RAMPS 1.6 + Arduino, Use an S-360 12V PSU, replace the thermistors and heat bed.
I plan to print a bowden extractor once I get it working and then use that to print parts for a Mendel90 that I'll swap it over to.

I think the NEMA motors should be fine to keep using, I'm going to test the windings today. But I don't have a lot of experience with 3D printers, does this sound like a reasonable plan, any advice for a newbie?
>>
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Does anyone have a proper wiring diagram for what pins are what for an Ender 5 Plus extruder motor? Doing a direct drive to make it an ABS only machine, using a high temp capable stepper motor, but I am having no luck with finding pin outs for the extruder cable.
>>
>>2203540
A stepper is a stepper is a stepper. If your Vref is okay, just swap about until it works in the right direction. Using a continuity tester will tell you which pins go together for each coil.
>>
>>2203546
Good call, I'll cut out the solder joints (thought I had it right from A1/A2 B1/B2) and check that.
>>
>>2203552
You could just unplug your existing motor and check that; or is your existing motor borken?
>>
>>2203533
Sounds reasonable.
You seem to know a bit about electronics.
I built one when most of what I knew about printing was from this general.
Something wrong with the bed?
>>
>>2203546
>just swap about until it works in the right direction
>>2203577
>unplug your existing motor

Be sure the motors are off before connecting/disconnecting
>>
>>2203598
I thought that was a given when writing it desu but yeah. I'd go beyond that and have the printer un plugged for surgery.
>>
>>2203625
You would be surprised how stupid some people are. I don't have the video but I'm sure somebody here does how some idiot plugs in his printer, it starts burning, and he keeps fiddling with it and filming the video
>>
This thread is getting really slow.
Are there any other dragon dildo threads or chans out there?
>>
>>2203031
Okay will do. I turned on something other stuff and only one part at a time instead of two and it’s better but looks like I have some very minor under extrusion now.
>>
>>2203101
This happened to me. The gear on the extruded wasn’t tight and it kept slipping up.
>>
>>2203103
>>2203165
>>2203273
>>2203671
i found the problem, the filament line was running under another line on the spool so i tied a knot basically
>>
>>2203632
>You would be surprised how stupid some people are
I worked in IT
>>
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>>2201299
Is there a place I can pirate STL files?
>>
>>2203776
try thingyverse, i usually pirate from there
>>
>>2203777
How do you get the things behind a pay wall?
>>
>>2203778
>pay wall
wot? it's all free
>>
>>2203778
people reupload paid shit to thingiverse all the time, picrel is a filament striped vase that originally costed money and is now free99 thanks to thingiverse
>>
I was thinking about getting a smaller nozzle to use for detailed prints but then I started wondering whether or not constantly switching nozzles would be too big of a hassle. Are there any decent cheap mini 3D printers? I could get Ender 3 for 150 euros but I don't have enough space for a second printer that big. A bed size of around 150x150 or even 100x100 would be enough.
>>
>>2203984
>heat hot end to 250c
>remove sock
>unscrew nozzle using included wrench
>screw in new nozzle and tighten snug with wrench
>re-install stock
>bobs your uncle
Its easy as shit, Im changing nozzles constantly because big nozzles are awesome for bigger items and fast printing. The only trick is to do it while its hot, and depending on your hot end mount, you may have to support the heater block with pliers while freeing/snugging the nozzle.

Not being a bitch and acclimating yourself to light servicing of the machine is a good thing. If changing a nozzle is hard/tedious for you, good luck changing a mainboard or installing a new hotend.
>>
>>2203984
buy a resin printer, they go for sub 200 nowadays
>>
>>2203998
resin is super nasty to deal with not to mention expensive
>>
>>2204017
and the quality is unmatched by fdm printers
>>
>>2204017
It's not that expensive for basic resins. Yeah it's more than PLA, but it's not unreasonable.
>>
>>2201385

If you've got a resin printer and a sintering oven yeah, look up Glassomer
>>
>>2203866
>no results on thingy
>no matching pics on google or yandex
Stop lying on the internet, Cory
>>
>>2202952
Cool
>>
Is diying a whole printer still cost effective in 2021 or should I just stick with some chink kit?
In short I'd like some 300x300x200min non xz printer for all in all <=599€, but am not completely happy with the offers. Something like the Sapphire Plus seem to hit very close to where I wanna go, but doesn't seem available as a "alloys, motor and belts" as I'm not a fan of the included board. I'm currently looking setting up my own, which would have the option of using parts already available to, but already creeps up in the same ball park anyway..
>>
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Just finished printing this. Worked out great, I just wish I had checked if the wall was straight BEFORE I started to attach it. Turns out one side is indented by like 1/4 in
>>
How to diagnose a printer randomly resetting mid print? No thermal runaway or anything like that, the display just goes blank, the Marlin boot screen pops up and the printer just sits there like it was just turned on. Printing from SD card and no, it doesn't happen at the same point and it doesn't happen with every print but the longer the print the higher the chances it happens I guess. Could it be the PSU? It's a meanwell but dunno if they can go bad early or something.
>>
>>2204594
>held onto the wall with double sided tape
Do americans really?
>>
>>2204594
Is that corkboard?
>>
Hey guys, I have been reading up on elephant foot, and always talking about bed needs to be leveled, and suggest to not have the bed too hot.

I end up trying to print with cool bed, I put some painters tape down, and it seems doing so causes elephant foot to get worse. I only have the fan off for the first few layers, for some reason cooling the layers makes it worse, should I count how many layers bulge out, and turn off the fan for those layers to see if that helps?
>>
>>2204666
Sorry I mean't cooling the first few layers causes elephants foot to get worse.
>>
>>2204666
Just checked, and my tape in 0.12mm thick, so it raises the bed by that much, which would make elephants foot worse.
I have a mechanical adjustment on my endstop, but I think others use a z offset in the slicer to adjust the height
>>
>>2204696
When I used caliper on mine, it also came out to .12, I set my z-offset to .15 just for slight variation, and the nozzle was still too close, which is odd since, it prints just fine without adjusting z offset and using tape. I went through my settings and realized I enabled "fan always on" for a test to try, and I disabled it, elephants foot is reduced a good amount.

I counted the layers that bulged out, and disabled the fan for that many layers, just to try, and see.
>>
>>2204594
>>2204630
^i was about to ask this
>>
What causes these strings? Or better said, how do i fix that in future prints?
>>
>>2204806
those look like your layers actually delaminated, what filament and temps?
>>
>>2204806
>>2204824
Yes, the layer line you were putting down didn't adhere, and just pulled behind the nozzle.

Material and profile? Happy to look at the 3mf.
>>
>>2204666
Gotta agree with the other guys. Nozzle is too close. I find the paper test keeps it too close for .2 mm layers. I always need to back it off another .1 mm.
>>
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>>2202402

Finished my Leo Burton Mount Rex. Working on a matching 1/20 Triceratops. Working on a 1/20 Utah Raptor in 3D for the next thing.
>>
>>2203776
Telegram groups
>>
>>2204872
even if we aren't looking for freedom seed distributors?
>>
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Anons, how actually good is ramping up acceleration with input shaping? I have a CR-10V3 Early with some upgraded parts (BL Touch, E3D V6 Hotend, Pi 4 running Klipper, etc)

I have a cheap accelerometer coming in next week and I want to know if it's better just to go at normal speeds and reduce the minor ringing I have or crank up the juice.
>>
have been wanting to get a 3D printer for a while, but what I don't want is another hobby called "fiddling with 3D printers"... I just want a trouble free solution, even if it costs more up front. what is a fire and forget option for $2-3K? or am I better off ordering prints online?
>>
>>2204888
>what is a fire and forget option for $2-3K?

Depends on build size and requirements. You can get nice 4K SLA printers for like $500 that take way less fucking around than filament printers.

Love fucking with my filament printers though. Feels a lot like tuning my car.
>>
>>2204888
buy one with a good big community of spergs who can help you troubleshoot.
Creality
Prusa
Elegoo
>>
>>2204616
Can't screw into the wall sadly
>>2204630
Adhesive backed. The plastic surface was a fairly slippery
>>
>>2204888
Prusa if you want FDM. They pretty much provide the best out-of-the-box experience in the hobbyist range in my opinion and they're basically made for printing instead of fucking around fixing shit. That's why they last a lot longer than chink shit which will break on you all the time due to the cheap parts and often times shittily cloned ender 3 design.

- t. chinkshit owner
>>
>>2204837
>>2204806
https://de.banggood.com/Creality-3D-White-or-Black-or-Yellow-or-Blue-or-Red-1KG-1_75mm-PLA-Filament-For-3D-Printer-p-1290153.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=228
this is the filament
the temperature i used to print was 200C for the nozzle, and 60 C for the bed
>>
>>2204666
Cooling also shrinks the layers faster, particularly depending on the material; I bet if you'd print with fan on vs. fan off and measured the parts, the elephant foot would stay the same size but the rest of the part would be slightly smaller if the fan's on.
>>
>>2205090
actually, whats the model itself look like?
>>2204806
Upon closer inspection I see that maybe this part is supposed to have a lip on the inside? Depending on the model and how aggressive the lip is, it might not be possible to actually bridge it perfectly.

And also this makes more sense than bad filament or bad temps because the rest of the part looks good
>>
>>2205106
Good except for the inside
>>
>>2205112
>>2204806
So the problem with parts like these, particularly if they get narrower towards the top, is if you have deviation in your extrusion width or the filament just didn't stick for some reason, it gets dragged behind the nozzle until it gets to a point where it does adhere. It's not so much "stringing" as it is just "failure to adhere to previous layer".
>>
>>2205113
and how do i fix that? just reprint and hope it sticks seems like a dumb idea
>>
>>2205112
More heat always means more adhesion so bump up ur nozzle temp 10c give her another go. Your overhangs are perfect so the print can definitely handle some more heat
>>
>>2205119
That's pretty much it. Or go slower, or overextrude a little so it's guaranteed to catch, or print hotter to coax it to stick, or redesign the part so it doesn't slope as much.
>>
Is it useful too print your prints dependent on the nozzle size?
For example nozzle size 0.8mm and walls 2.4mm
2.4mm/0.8mm= 3, so without a remainder.
>>
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Anyone happen to have the STL for this guy and wouldnt mind sharing?
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>>2205129
I do, but use the extrusion width set in the slicer
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>>2204975
What kind of wall do you have that you can't screw into?
Wood just requires wood screws, brick or concrete require wall plugs so it's an extra step but still doable.
>>
>>2204882
>on a cartesian printer
What's the point? You'll only get it working on one axis.
>>
>>2205177
theoretically if he puts it on the y-axis, he could tune in higher accel/jerk than what's normally possible on a bed slinger
>>
>>2205177
>You'll only get it working on one axis.

You run the measurement on both X and Y axis separately (mount to head and run test then mount to bed and run test) instead of doing the model print and measuring from there.
>>
>>2205133
The thread in tg might have him, this thread is mostly for fdm printers while that thread is mostly gor minis and terrain.
>>
>>2205205
So you dont need the accelerometer to stay mounted on an axis?
>>
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Anons,

I got a Longer LK1 printer yesterday. I know it's chinkshit, but it was a gift. I am a complete beginner to 3d printing and I've attempted two prints so far. The first was a cube that came preloaded on the SD card with the printer. It didn't adhere so I raised the bed temp a little. I then tried to print the Benchie boat and it went very well until the very end, where the whole thing seemed to lose adhesion and the extruder nozzle just pushed it around. I adjusted the bed, leveled it twice to where each corner would barely grab a sticky note, and raised the bed temp to 65. Extruder temp has remained at 200. I am using PLA. This morning, I tried to print the same cube from the first attempt. I lowered the speed to approx. 50% at first and then raised to around 80% following the first few layers. All went well until the end, where, similar to the Benchie, the entire print began to move around with the extruder. What do I do?

Pic extremely related
>>
>>2205222
Nope. It just needs to find the resonant frequency of an axis. You only have to run it again if you change something on the printer that would affect that like a new extruder or hotend.
>>
>>2205228
Bed temp to 60
First layer at 215
Regular layers at 210

Preheat then relevel again, as in lower the center until it grabs paper, then turn off stepper motors and move to the corners and adjust them.
>>
>>2205160
maybe he has a security deposit
>>
>>2205241
Nice, I'll probably get one myself then.
>>
>>2205228
Buy a PEI sheet for your bed, never have problems with adhesion ever again unless/until you rip the PEI off.
>>
>>2205121
great, slowed down to 50 from 100 and it still fucks up the enitre thing, could my filament just be of too bad quality now? its kinda old, like i think over 7 months
>>
>>2205090
try at 210
>>
I was having (and still am having) a problem with my extruder, vid related.
>>>/wsg/4115761
Previously anons suggested that my I needed to calibrate my extruder E-steps. After doing the calibration I found that I was under calibrated, 150mm commanded used ~130mm of filament.
The popping did not happen during the calibration extrusion. Increasing temperature and decreasing the E-steps per mm, even though it was already too low in theory, helped to reduce the occurrence frequency of the popping but I am definitely under extruding a bit now.
Any other ideas?
>>
>>2205358
The essence of the problem is (most likely) that it's hard to force the filament through, this can either be caused by too few amps on the stepper, too small nozzle for the speed you want to print at for the given material (different filaments have different viscosity, need more or less force to go through a given hole), too low temperature, or clogs, some piece of debri clogging up the tubes and holes leading through the hotend.
Post the relevant settings and information.
>>
>>2205384
the printer is a basic CR-10, 0.4mm nozzle, printing with PLA, hotend temps tested from 200-230 in 5 degree increments.
>>
>>2205400
Amps on the extruder motor? Is the extruder motor hot to the touch when running?
>>
>>2205355
did, with slowed speed even, didnt improve anything
>>
>>2205402
I think the problem was caused by a partial clog in the hotend.
In hindsight this probably should have been one of the first things I checked, but I am new at this so it didnt occur to me.
My assumption is that it was slowly becoming more clogged and that my attempts to fix the issues I was having were only working due to the increasing clog that was forming.
It seems to be working without issue now that I have cleaned out the hotend.
>>
There always seems to be crossover for hobbygrade CNC and laser stuff here so I thought I'd ask.

Has anyone tried the Ortur Laser Master Pro 2? I like what I see. It seems to have no problems engraving wood and even some very light metal work and cut cut plastic / paper / foam easily.
>>
>>2205449
Maybe put a filament cleaner thing ahead of the extruder, clogs really aren't very common otherwise. Though I tend to print with larger nozzles.
>>
>>2205433
yeah filament would be the next thing id suspect, have you dried it at all?
>>
>>2204806
Try thinner layers, extrude at larger size than your nozzle diameter (ie if your nozzle is 0.5, extrude at 0.7mm). Others already mentioned temperature.
>>
>>2205455
not really sure what caused it, the nozzle was not clogged but there was a plug of plastic in hotend.
I guess I didnt have the bowden tube inserted in completely.
>>
>>2205458
dont know how to do that desu
>>
>>2201299
Man 3d printer is such bullshit, I spend like 300 hours to get it to basic operation and it still is not operating

>non direct drive printing produces not enough force to grab the filament unless its upside down, with zero drag or some bullshit like this
>print quality effected
>decide to get a bracket for direct drive printing
>engine too heavy, starts to sag even enough though double z axis bought.
>4 broken extruder blocks
>3 complete extruders also broken
>nearly everything broken once had to re-order it like 2 times quite often
>firmware is a hassle to get to working
>constantly clogged

I managed to get a couple of prints off, but holy shit this is pure torture. If I knew that the ender 3 v2 was such shit I would have just waited a bit and bought a proper printer. 300 hours and still not even just simple basic operation possible.
>>
>>2205491
How did you spend 300 hours on it and still not learn how to troubleshoot a printer? I've built 2 custom-design printers and both work and I'm not sure it took me 300 hours.
>>
>>2205494
Because I had to make custom parts as well and I had to create a small machine shop in my basement too. Because the plastic do it yourself brackets are too weak. I just dont like any of it. Its bullshit man, well maybe not 300 but 200 definitely.
>>
>>2205496
>Try to find out how the custom commands work to fine tune it
>cable needs a laptop
>laptop needs the program to work
>the program to work needs a proper and specific USB driver
>it kinda works on linux, also kinda on windows

>marlin firmware needs to be compiled for some reason even though all the machines are standard and you need to learn how to compile it and then bltouch doesnt work or does work for no reason that you can figure it out for
>just download from some shitty side some old firmware, bltouch now works but other settings are gay and retarded

and that was one week of work after my main job in my free time. I really do think that this piece of shit took me at least 200 hours to NOT TO EVEN GET BASIC OPERATIN from.

Like holy hell who the fuck would advertise these shitty 3d printers? EVERYTHING IS ROUGH. YOU NEED CUSTOM PARTS FOR EVERYTHING. EVERYTHING BREAKS DOWN YOU NEED 3 SPARE PARTS FOR MOST THINGS THAT MOVE.
>>
>>2205501
>CUSTOM PARTS FOR EVERYTHING
Dude just like, get a 3d printer.
>>
>>2205503
Bowden Extruder is gay though, very homosexual.
>>
>>2205505
Yeah it is, if you need to print fast, just build a more rigid printer and put bigger motors on.
>>
>>2205513
I think the reason why it took me 200 hours is because only direct drive promises good quality. I already did some prints with ABS and bowden but they had no consistent quality. So cheap shit and any entry level printer will do, but if you want actual good (and a little bit mechanical usable quality), you need direct drive. And those upgrade kits are not always stable.
>>
>>2205515
For starters you really shouldn't bother with ABS at all, just do PETG if you need some temperature resistance, otherwise PLA.
>>
>>2205517
The properties of ABS I saw as being used for some constructions. Created a few things out if it, also took me a long time to get the settings properly for it. Also a bitch material. But so far it really is a huge job. Its no wonder that the more decent machines go over 1k, all of the below 1k machines are just garbage that you need to tweak and fine tune a lot for good results.
>>
>>2205248
>>2205298

Thank you both, anons. I took your advice and implemented the new temperature settings and covered the bed in a single layer of tape to suffice until I order the PEI sheet. Had my first successful print!
>>
>>2205491
Shoulda bought a Prusa
>>
>>2205515
>I already did some prints with ABS and bowden but they had no consistent quality.
cause you're roasting the ptfe tube which will give you brain damage
>>
>>2205535
Yea I should have. People really should not recommend cheap printers, anything beyond shitty quality level and you are much better off just to get a proper more expensive printer. The creality ones are just barely even operational, even with all the effort done.
>>
>>2205505
no its fine, even the prusa mini uses bowden, you sound like youre just a retarded faggot desu and all of your "problems" are you thinking wayyyyy too hard. 3d printing is something that is actually so stupidly simple that people have made usable parts with printers made out of ikea sliding draw rails for axes motion
>>
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>>2205491
>>2205496
>>2205501
>>2205515
lies, bait, and dipshittery
go home prusafag
>>
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>>2201299
didn't like any of the TV remote holders I saw on thingiverse so I just made my own.
uses way too much fucking filament (cost me a fiver to print) so possibly that's why they're all so ugly.
>>
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Is anyone aware of a 3D printed tripwire alarm thingy?
>>
>>2205646
Shouldn't be too hard to make one in solidworks, pretty simple stuff.
>>
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Any super interesting filament styles or plastics you would recommend or just recently came out? Printing with plain standard materials is boring
>>
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>>2204882
Fucking smart idea, I had this thought a while ago. Technically you'd have accurate cornering and sharp detail but the speed could 30+% faster.
The only thing though is that each axis is independently driven, so integration into the printer itself would be a fucked job - the firmware would have to read the accelerometer values, and know how to interpret that into altering gcode lines or movements since that's where all the positional data comes from. Basically:
>accelerometer mounted to hotend, connected to main board
>firmware reads accel. values, interpolates to relevant gcode line
>??? problem
The firmware would have to calculate how long a gcode movement would take, which the slicer can do already, so -
You'd only need to make acceleration ramping work on the slicer end of things; the printer would follow the movements just the same as any acceleration ramped control system you would try to employ physically. But that's fucked because you'd have to fuck around with a slicer's code - maybe they will add it as a feature as 3D printing progresses.
>>
Which plastic would you use to print a dog toy?
>>
>>2205724
Maybe TPU, but I'd be super hesitant to print one in the first place. Consider creating a mold, then cast a solid rubber part instead, one made from something you know won't hurt your dog.
>>
>ender 3 pro with Bl Touch (4.2.2 board)
>can't get Z axis to actually level
>tried using prusaslicer any recommendations I'll try out

So I've been trying to install a BL touch 1.3 from a creality kit to my ender 3 pro. when I go to autobed level it just mashes into the bed and I have to turn off the machine to get the motor to stop. I've tried switching the firmware to the 4.2.2 with bl touch on creality's site and that did allow me to mess with the bl touch's probe settings. The Z axis pin is disconnected from the switch but I've left it attached to the board since it's hot glued on. I'll try removing the z axis wires tomorrow but I've seen guidance that ranges from rewiring the probe and connecting it to the z axis limit switch. I was wondering if any anons had a similar issue or had an idea on what to do.

To clarify, when I avoid the auto home feature it just prints in mid air about 20mm above the bed.
>>
>>2205646
>>2205667
Makes for a decent mine too.
>>
>>2205724
I wouldn't
>>
Hey lads, anyone run into an issue where your first layer is perfect but the second and subsequent layers are too close?
I have to change the z offset mid print every time now in order to fix the problem.
Calibrated the extruder esteps and tested the flow and it was fine. Just installed BLtouch, not sure if that might be the problem.
Printer is a ender clone, Voxelab Aquila.
>>
>>2205901
isnt that the z step setting? Mine is at 400, if I put it to 500 it becomes 16.6% taller. But with a direct drive it started to sag, so I bought a more light weight motor, went from 400 grams to 120 grams. It sagged a lot less, but still a little bit. Not sure if its an easily fixable thing in my case.
>>
>>2205902
I actually put a new printed shroud on with new bigger fans too. You think the extra weight could be doing it? Is it the z esteps?
>>
>>2205906
you fool, it is one of the problems that is hard to unfuck. Most likely you suffer from "sagging", that is when a printhead is so heavy that after moving a little bit up, it sags down. You can alleviate it by having a dual z axis motors. There are some kits that allow your printer to handle more weight.

But besides sagging up I also noticed that it doesnt go all the way up either. So you would have to tweak with some setting, the only ones are the steps for the Z axis I think. So far I have been trying to figure out what the best ones are. 2cm broad, 2.4 cm tall was on 400 to 500 z steps.

But knowing how nightmarelike this hobby is it will most likely take me another week to figure out.

For you it may be easier. Just add a z axis if you only a a single one. Add a few small steps too. I got a test cube to print and I just measure the total length now.

I kid you not, this whole 3dprinting bullshit gave me basic engineering/electronics skills.
>>
>>2205909
Fuck. The other thing I did was fix up my leadscrew which was binding a little. Lubed up and fixed the alignment.It now moves very easily which could be what you describe. Only a tiny amount of force required to move it down.
I know what you mean, I got into this hobby to eat up my free time on rest days during this bullshit lockdown here in the open air prison. Have spent an insane amount of time fixing problems caused by other fixes. Very fun though.
>>
>>2205909
Maybe just tightening the eccentric nuts could do the job of keeping the gantry up?
>>
without having to manually edit gcode, does simplify 3d support pausing at a certain layer?
I want to pause at say layer 100 and add magnets into my print
Right now i just edit the gcode file manually but is there a better way?
>>
>>2205702
everything you just said is literally implemented in klipper lol
>>
>>2205974
can you implement a pause as a phony color change?

desu its really easy to read gcode and its only tedious if you're trying to be really fancy. every layer start looks the same and its surrounded by a mess of movements so its really easy to pick out. You just have to pay attention to the z height and when you find the 100th layer you can pop in a pause command and then no spoofing a color change required
>>
>>2205916
could be worth a try

>>2205914
All I ever wanted was to find another dude who would tell me that I am not insane, nor retarded and that this hobby is nearly just torture if you get a cheap printer. Also the same reason for me why I got into it. Lots of free time, and apparently you need it. At least if you want to make quality. Cheap and uneven prints do indeed seem to be easy enough to get.
>>
>>2205987
You aren’t insane bro. You are spot on about having learning electical/ engineering / problem solving from this hobby. I keep telling myself I’m being productive and learning new things that I wouldn’t have if I had just bought a shiny new prusa.
Honestly the prints out of the box were probably good enough, but I was fed up with the loud fans, then the bed leveling and so on. Most of the prints have just been to upgrade the printer.
>>
>>2205993
>I keep telling myself I’m being productive and learning new things that I wouldn’t have if I had just bought a shiny new prusa.


holy shared cope, I also full of cope and we think alike, but yea, actually encountering problems and needing to fix them teaches you a great deal of things. Because of the 3d printer I also got an interest in welding.

There are probably better ways than frustration to learn something, but not many probably lel. Wanting to get that perfect print, no defects, just a piece of something you can hold that looks great. It drives me far, into despair but also hope and learning. I cant believe that such a stupid metal thing could give me so many emotions.
>>
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WHAT THE FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK

are you FUCKING KIDDING ME
two years ago i installed inductive probe on my z axis for automatic bed levelling, but because i got shitty results over the years, several months ago i installed BL TOUCH instead.. after seeing the bed leveling results were also sorta shitty just like with the induction probe i was like meh, i'll just have to live with it
and today ba chance i noticed this fucking shit
i had set my slicer to level x and z after leveling the bed by doing G29; G28 XY
FOR ALL MY FUCKING PRINTS

FOR THE PAST TWO FUCKING YEARS I WAS PRINTING ON NON LEVEL FUCKING BED BECAUSE THE FUCKING PROBE RESULTS WEREN'T USED BY THE RETARDED FUCKING MARLIN AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
>>
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>>2205999
>>
>>2205997
Based, you sound like you are down the rabbit hole slightly more than I am. Luckily there isn’t really isn’t any opportunity costs right now with covid bullshit. You are 100% spot on though and I can commiserate with your experiences.
>>2205999
Holy fuck anon.
>>
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>>2206003
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_stages_of_competence

I am using models on learning that most people use in education. 3d printing seems to be pretty consistent with them. A thousand hours is needed for some form of mastery, like boxing, weight lifting. But harder forms like education may take like 5000 hours for masters/phd?

So this process is familiar for me, I just did not expect it to be here with 3d printing. Most consumer products are designed to have little learning curves. This is NOT one of these products.

But yea, I think that other people who get into this field should be warned that "it will easily take 300 hours to get it all working properly" instead of following some meme chart about gu...yea toys! For if your soul gets devoured by a 3d printer, at least if you knew beforehand you would be spared some pain.
>>
>>2205999
>RETARDED FUCKING MARLIN
you're the retard, you have to auto-home XY before bed leveling cause the printer has to know where the fuck the print head is. Also, you have to turn it on if you don't want to do it every time but use stored values.

>Homing is required before G29, M48, and some other procedures.
>If homing is needed the LCD will blink the X Y Z indicators.
>G28 disables bed leveling. Follow with M420 S to turn leveling on, or use RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 to automatically keep leveling on after G28.
>>
>>2206011
Kek I remember learning about this from PUA material back in the day after getting dumped by my first gf when I was a teenager.
To be fair most guides did say to buy the prusa if you wanted something that ’just werks’ and go with the ender/clone to learn. 200AUD was no big deal if I got sick of just printing little cat and frog statues.
>>
Im trying to print a single item in simplify3d using 2 materials
I want 3 solid layers when I switch materials
Currently it treats the entire model as a single long print and just does infill at the material swaps
>>
>>2206014
I wonder if the chinese know that westerners buy their printers because of "they are so bad that you have to tinker and repair to them and its good for you" kind of advertising. Can you imagine that if someone had this category for phones, or cars?

"first you have to re-assemble your car in order to make it go beyond 130 km"

"you have to first solve 30 software bugs in your new iphone if you want it to call to more than 5 people"

lol
>>
>>2206041
>"first you have to re-assemble your car in order to make it go beyond 130 km"
If a brand new car cost $5000 and was the equivalent quality of a new $20000 shitbox after some work and modifications, there would be a ton of people jumping at the opportunity to buy one.
>>
if i do m600 and the printer is waiting for me to insert new filament, will it keep steppers on forever?
>>
>>2206045
that is actually not a bad idea at all. If you pre-make one of those shitty creality ones, get it properly firmwared. Give it all the gadgets of a more expensive one. Yea. Not a bad idea. Depending on how fast you can correct the errors and assemble something like that.

It makes sense, you are smarter than me anon. "it just werks" seems to be worth 1k for 3d printers.
>>
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why does my 1st layer look like shit?

it's just pla
>>
>>2206065
nozzle too close or over-extrusion cause this, the ripples is actually plastic curling up around the nozzle
>>
>>2205999
kids, when you see people shit talking one printer brand over another on /3dpg/, just remember that these same people might also be completely ignorant and incompetent.
>>
>>2205993
>>2205997
this is true of any hobby that goes in depth, renovate a house or fix a car and youll also notice similarities in the problem solving advanced learning feeling
>>
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>>2206075
Is there a way to learn more of this? For example I learned the following

>to keep your production stream going, it is good to have spares of components that easily break
>there could be multiple errors going on in the machine and you may not know which one drives which problem, just eliminate them one by one if possible
>some misalignment and errors can help you identify other errors
>errors and misalignment can help you test the durability of parts
>sometimes if you dont get have a manual, just do random shit, it may fix it
>prepare to be disappointed and your progress being halted even if you do not expect it, expect black swans because you are an uneducated retard newfag

the last part that I learned now

>in order to save time, dont be surprised, for certain errors in certain regions (like a blockage in the printing head), streamline error correction and repair. Try to do it in steps that are the fastests

This, but also a few more indeed apply to everything nearly that you do. I may not like to state it but this whole process made me get the "professional unemotional person" kind of thing, it eliminated my humor and my smiles. I am less surprised now when things break down. It changed my personality.
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>>2206078
>>2206078
To add to my post, given how sensitive the topic of 3d printing can be, I still kinda wish for it to receive some merit. I come from /sig/ and one of the ventures that we have is called "skill acquisition"

https://wiki.sigup.net/shelves/skills

We are setting up a wiki thus if you know any good books or even some personal experience, feel free to add to it.

The main channel is t.me/sig_up and we also have an active community and chat group if you dig deeper.
>>
>>2202800
Hey lord autismo, your complaint is utterly retarded. There are several hotend mounting options for the Voron, three of which are included in the default download (slice mosquito, phaetus dragon, and E3D V6) and I'm sure you could find more on voron mods. Extruder for the afterburner is just the guts of a BMG.
>>
>>2206124
There’s a furry in there
>>
>>2206247
Yea I am sorry, its supposed to be slightly tolerant of them because many people came from degen backgrounds, trying to be wholesome. Though that furry seems to be very slow at the trying part. Those who advocate for vice get booted though. Only work and progress towards wholesomeness is allowed. Other than that, skill acquisition should slowly get rolling right about now. I hope at least lol. Still many general retards who just shitpost and fight eachother over trivial nonsense.

but even after saying all of this ,there is pretty much no better place. All the other spheres are more fucked than we are.
>>
Printing your own height extension block for your printer: yes or no?

I only want like an extra 20mm. Some of the models I have, use the full space, and won’t fit with a raft and need to go directly on bed or won’t fit height, and then some designed for full heigh but a few mm too high which is annoying.

I had to chop some up into smaller prints. If I’m going to print more of these, would be good to add slightly more height.
>>
>>2206661
Why not? It's not like you'll be wasting much material. I am interested in this, if you do it then do come back with results.
>>
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So I was fucking around with the parts that you can make by printing them, like the holder for the bltouch, but that holder is not exactly sturdy. Especially if you have not made your printer to print more than shit tier quality defaults.

So I realized that I can just get some plate metal. Take my welding machine and create a bltouch holder by using very mean metal that everyone hates. It was simple, just use a dremel tool to cut it to shape, drill a hole for the screw and it was operational.

The holding of the screw for example it was not really suited for because the plastic cannot handle that pressure properly and since the bltouch holder uses one of the screws of the wheel it caused some minor instability probably.

The metal piece I made is much more functional. Ironically speaking, getting into 3d printing made me appreciate metal more in the area's where it is strong. A deko chinese dremel tool is quite cheap, I also welded a bench for myself and got a vice. The first ever custom piece I created, ph34r me! Also cant have enough cooling fans even though the motor is rated beyond 100celcius lel!
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>>2206716
What’s the deal with the random heatsinks in the stepper motor?
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>>2206857
it gets warm, probably...last motor was overheating halfway through and ruined my stuff, it didnt shut off automatically. Just put a few of them there just in case.
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>>2206716
anon you should really wipe up your mucus after you sneeze
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>>2206863
delicious glue gun keeps it in place. Much easier than to find a properly fitted screw. It just works like this. A metal plate, welded 90 degrees, with two screws and a lot of hot glue.
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>>2206868
frankly it looks like shit and you could have crapped that much hot glue onto a 3d printed part and have it be just as strong. Your booger bracket isn't really better than a properly designed and printed one.
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if I'm going for 100% infill should I bump the thickness on cura for the infill up above the regular thickness
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>>2206904
lol well, it just werks. I can easily reduce it and make it prettier, but who cares, you dont fuck 3d printers. You dont get sexually attracted to them. And the metal piece of fucking awesome. I will do less 3d printing and more metal working now. Why? Because metal is awesome.
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>>2201751
nobody asked you to stop?
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>>2206948
Why would you bother to post this.
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>>2206908
depends on what extrusion width you're using now, CNCkitchen on youtube found that 1.5x nozzle diameter for extrusion width was the strongest result. Though what makes the most difference by far is having thicker walls/more perimeters
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>>2201751
that shitty soldering iron is making me sick, buy ts100
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>>2206961
>>2206961
>shitty soldering iron
It's a generic stand, but the soldering station is a Weller WSD81. Don't come near me with your ungrounded China trash, also don't @ me ever again.
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>>2206968
I am sure you pristine western heating thingy full of advanced tech is more better than some chinese thing that becomes really hot. So sorry.
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>>2207012
desu I was thinking of something else when you said TS100, that thing actually seems convenient for field work.
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>>2207015
Do you often get autism over brand names for trivial gear?
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>>2207025
i prefer to call it awootism
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>>2207025
u often get JELLY
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>>2207031
HEATY STICK BAD, UR BAD, DONT AAAT ME
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>>2207033
HEATY STICK NO WIRE OF SOIL, CRAFTED BY ASIATIC BLOOD. IT IS OF THE DEVIL
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So a while back I got a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer for 60 bucks at a swap meet. it was unopened and nicely packaged (tldr the sellers didnt know what the fuck a 3d printer was and was selling them for 60 bucks not knowing they were sitting on literal hundreds of dollars)
Is this a good first printer? I used to use a Makerbot in Highschool but that was class only.
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hey guys, absolute newfag in here
should i buy one of those 90$ or less printers if i never 3d printed anything in my life?

i just want to print some battletech minis, nothing with many details and i could in theory paint over any imperfections as battle damage.
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>>2207098
the hot end is probably terrible and you're gonna want to install a part cooling fan and ducts if it really doesn't have one stock
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>>2207115
>should i buy one of those 90$ or less printers
probably not, by all accounts they are terrible
for minifigs youre probably going to want a resin printer, entry level ones are around $200
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>>2205646
How's this? Gotta adjust it a bit to get some tolerances right and fit a holder for a primer (and swipe some primers from somewhere because eurocuckland requires a firearm license for primers) but here's a workin one with just a basic push-spring. Need to remake the firing pin to hold a nail (printed in 2 parts and glued) and do some touchups. As of now, it dents wood, so it should have enough jerk to fire a primer.
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>>2207148
As you can see, simple shit.
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>>2207149
Even has routing for zip-ties
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>>2207152
Based beyond belief.
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>>2207152
Should work?
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>>2207148
I kinda wanna see what it'd do to my nuts
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>>2207115
Nah, buy a elegoo mars or a similar resin printer for that kind of stuff. Then you can print a clan madcat and marvel at the shit smeared clan tech. Or print a glorious urbanmech
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>>2207153
Thank you anon

I'll keep making some updates leading to a final good version and release it. Hopefully at least in the next 3dpg I'll have this out.
Goals
>Printable without supports (achieved)
>Exchangeable tops for different primers or firing caps (basically achieved, threaded caps)
>Making sure it works more than just once
>Making sure the spring inside is easy to source and can be left loaded for a long time without losing power
>Getting tolerances right
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>>2207157
Any way you could make the cap fit a shotgun shell instead?
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>>2207115
monoprice mini delta is your best budget FDM the problem is you can really only get away with terrain- boxes, barrels etc. they FUCKING suck to paint because of the layers, and you can't pass it off as battle damage because it's fucking layers and even if you heavily prime it still makes it nearly complete ass to paint.

if you want to cuck GW go resin, it's well worth the cost for what is coming out the other end.

>>2207169
beware that in the US any trap that could be fatal will get you charged with 1st degree murder. you'll get your ass handed to you in a way shooting an unarmed motherfucker dead in cold blood never will.
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>>2207157
Huh neat. Where are the STL files?
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>>2206716
You do know you can 3d print the bracket right? Why are enderfags so fucking stupid. Just look at that mess... Ffs bro.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4598663
Now fix that gross mess if you can ...
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>>2206861
It's over heating because it's not properly tuned or needs to be taken apart and oiled. I hate you with every cell of my being.
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>>2207098
They're only worth about $60~$80. Current prices are WAY too high. They only originally MSRP at $180 to compete with MK2 and the original ender 3. The mk7 extruder will need an upgrade to at least an mk8. Idk if you can even buy mk7 hotend parts anymore. It'll be a $12 upgrade. You'll want to add a heated bed as well and a better psu. Trust me $60 is fair for that.
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>>2207098
The new version is only worth $108 on AliExpress so $60 is overpaying for a 4 year old unsupported printer missing key features like heated bed and a mk7 hotend. It was shit 4 years ago and it's even more shit now. You have maybe $30 in parts.
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>>2207338
>taking apart a stepper motor and expecting it to work afterwards
>oiling a stepper motor
I'm not sure which of these two thoughts is stupider.
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Considering getting a filament dryer to feed from. Anyone have any opinions on ones that you can buy vs throwing together something on my own? They seem cheap enough that I'm super concerned with diy-ing it purely for savings.
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>>2207352
Then you need to tune it. I've gotten like a month or two out of a worn out stepper motor by adding mineral oil. Keep running it like that and you'll quickly destroy it. Over heating means you're running way too much amperes through it.
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>>2207367
I went the diy route by getting a dehydrator for $10 at a goodwill. It still works. There's files you can print on thingiverse. I ordered a sunlu because it's actually cheaper then a food dehydrator new. The store bought one is cheaper to run and works okay. You're not drying wet filament with it, it's literally meant to just keep dry filament dry. Best to store your filament in a tote with dessicant. You get them in your rolls and medications. Every time I open a bottle of Omeprazole I get a nice canister I just throw into my tote. Been doing it for about 5 years now. I have some very old filament the prints like it's new. You're still going to want a dehydrator to dry out old filament and store it in a dry cool place away from sunlight. I run a big dehumidifier in my house just because I don't mind the heat below 80F. It's all about just keeping it dry anon.
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>>2207374
Yeah that's perfect. I recently ordered a 5lbs jug of desiccant for my box of filament since I live in the deep south and humidity plagues me. I used to just dry my shit out in the oven well enough.
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>>2207375
You really don't need that much at all. That's way overkill. Best to have it I suppose. As long as you keep it in a tote with like 1/4th cup of desiccant it'll be fine. Maybe for you go with a whole cup and save all your packets etc. I've never had to buy any at all. I live in Roanoke Virginia so it's not as bad as say Mississippi or hotlanta Georgia. A little does the job well but if you have it, use it I suppose. You'll know when it's wet because it'll turn yellow. Throw it out and add new. It's not expensive but then again I get it free with just about everything. My wife has seizures so all her meds come with it monthly. I buy a roll of pla once a month or so depends on my printing needs. Omeprazole for me and it comes with desiccant. You can't dry it out I've tried. It just melts and smokes.
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if I set cura to have a 30 wall line count and compensate for wall overlaps checked on a print with varying width's would that cause any issues? I've attempted several models at 100% infill and they either fail within the first 10 percent or get to the overnight stage and I wake up to the infill ruined but my walls looking fine
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>>2207417
Idk cura has been total garbage lately. Switch to prusa slicer and see if it has the same issue. I found a strong dislike for cura.
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>>2206716
>that holder is not exactly sturdy

First off there are tons of BLTouch brackets for 3d printing. Secondly: what the fuck does the bracket need to be "strong" for?
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I just got a Voxelab Aquila (Ender 3v2) and I wanted to upgrade the hotend to prevent heat creep on long prints and run higher temps. I haven't had any problems on this printer before, but on my previous printer jammed in 1 in 5 prints and this is just preventative.

I'm looking at a Microswiss clone or just swapping the heatbrake to a full-metal style one. Suggestions?
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>>2206861
For fucks sake turn down the current then.
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>>2207445
when the bltouch crashes into the bed he wants to be sure that it gets fucked up properly
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>>2206716
Horrifying levels of Dunning-Kruger.
>>2207445
A well designed plastic part is going to be considerably more sturdy than a poorly designed metal part. But if it's not giving you problems, you might as well leave it like that.
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>>2207485
>A well designed plastic part is going to be considerably more sturdy than a poorly designed metal part. But if it's not giving you problems, you might as well leave it like that.

I'm just not sure what they are expecting the BLTouch to have to endure in normal operation? The probe should long be retracted beforce any force at all is applied to the bracket. If at some point during probing it crashes so hard into the bed that the 3d printed bracket breaks then surely that is still a preferrable outcome to a metal bracket capable of withstanding much higher forces and thus leading to much more damage potentially.

Also:
>3d printed part too weak
>"I'll just jizz hotglue all over this part. That oughta be nice and sturdy!"
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>>2207491
The BLTouch can easily deflect enough to make it an issue, especially when it's mounted half-assed and you get lateral forces. When you mount it to a piece of thin metal that basically acts as a spring and don't really care about accurate alignment, you can get significantly worse performance.
I have a thick metal mount for it and I didn't notice that one screw wasn't completely tightened and even just that tiny bit of misalignment gave me +- 0.05mm, which is pretty bad on the first layer.
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>>2207493
I have never had any issues like those. I had a simple 3d printed bracket made to fit the stock ender 3 v2 hotend which worked perfectly fine and now I have the Hero Me hotend assembly with the included BLTouch bracket and that works just as fine as well.

>especially when it's mounted half-assed and you get lateral forces

That's not an issue with 3d printed brackets or anything though. Just poor workmanship.
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>>2204615
I'm the only person who ever had this problem apparently
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>>2207504
I only ever had this problem with an underpowered Pi running Octoprint desu.
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>>2204615
Well it's either the control board or the PSU. Try another PSU, if it still does it, faulty board. Alternatively put a big capacitor on the board's power input line.
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>>2207169
I can. I'll have to dig up some spent casings from my garage somewhere so that I can measure and ensure fitment, but I can. Gonna be up to the user what to do with them after I release the design...

>>2207333
I'll upload to thingiverse once the design is finalized.
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>>2207514
I was just wondering if there might be anything else that I may have overlooked. It's not a big deal ordering a BTT replacement board but I would like to be reasonably sure what is actually causing the problem. I already replaced the original PSU with one which is much higher max. power cause the original one was running hot as fuck and showing the same error (which basically triggered the replacement in the first place). So I doubt it's the PSU now but I don't have a way to monitor voltage over an extended period of time either.
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>>2207372
>MINERAL OIL
OH NO NO NO NO
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>>2207521
Yeah I mean if you already replaced the PSU then it would have to be the control board. Have you checked your heater and fan wiring for any shorts? wiring is the only other thing I can think of that would be so intermittent like that.
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How urgently should one replace the tinned wiring on creality machines?
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>>2207600
>Have you checked your heater and fan wiring for any shorts?
I had thermal runaways on my hotend because of shitty connectors but since chopping all of them off and soldering the wires together that problem has vanished. I don't see any other exposed or nicked wires or anything though. Guess I'll have to bite the bullet and order a new board. If only it didn't take forever to arrive...
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Shower Adapter 4.0 with speed holes.
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>>2207450
The Voxelab Aquila is not an ender in any shape or form. They don't even share the same tsmc trinamic drivers opting instead for cheaper ones. The CPU on enders is a mid-high end real time STM32bit micro controller, the Voxelab Aquila uses an 256k arm. For the most part arm based boards are simply ignored.
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>>2207664
>speed holes
>supported
In your case this had the opposite effect
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Bought this printer to replace my perma broken Ender 3. What am in for?
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>>2207673
The question has literally nothing to do with the board
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>>2207441
I guess I'm not in enough of the printing circle to really be able to tell if it's worse than it was before cause it seems basically the same to me

just curious about increasing walls to fully fill the print instead of using 100% infill since I've had nothing but trouble trying to do 100% and doing more research I'm seeing people saying you need to get everything calibrated super tight for 100% to come out properly
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Does anyone have experience with Hatchbox Performance PLA? How does it differ or stack up against their "standard" PLA, besides having +/- 0.03mm instead of +/- 0.05mm DA?
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>need to do a 26 hour print
>can only do it on a Saturday since I need to watch it in case it fucks up
>first time lifts from the bed
>second time lifts again
>get a fuckload of glue
>third time nozzle gets clogged
>bed now glued to shit, have to clean
>try with less glue
>fourth time lifts again
I'VE WASTED 4 WEEKS ON THIS SHIT
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>>2207838
painters tape?
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>>2207844
Might work better. I'm using a Prusa Mk.2 with PLA.
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>>2207838
Probably a levelling issue.
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>>2207863
how the fuck? Ive never had issues with prusa, 2 things: either rtfm and do all the calibration stuff, or maybe your PLA is shitty/hydrolized
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>>2207882
Could be the filament. I've printed fine on it before with smaller pieces, but this print is almost a full-bed size, hence the time
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>>2207740
lol
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>>2207883
could also be the leveling then, since its working for smaller parts, try to get it as level as possible, also afaik prusa has support so you could ask them, and also try some fresh/dried filament, but start by checking how level it is (you can do that by doing a 1st layer test (theres plenty on thingieverse) that checks the entire bed
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>>2207740
why didnt you buy a prusa mini? buy a prusa mini. it just werks
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>>2207891
Shipping from the Czech republic to my South American country is too expensive.
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First time printing tpu. Brought my speeds down, but i was not expecting needing to increase(decrease?) the extrusion diameter.
Bitch tangled and killed the print early too.
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any clue what the cause for this support to get so messy would be? Looking online for similar symptoms provides a ton of different possibilities
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>>2207936
in that pic those supports are really under-extruded so my first assumption is you have them set to print too fast
>>2207897
try increasing infill overlap if perimeters arent sticking to infill, also lol ur bed is warped or your first layer must be atrocious with those waves in the extrusion

otherwise it looks really good for TPU, usually when it under-extrudes it gets all voidy
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if I'm getting prints failing to extrude properly at the same height regardless of the model is that indicative of an issue with my slicer software or something in the hardware
I don't think it's a clog because I can kill the print and start another instantly without any feed issues until it reaches that point again
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>>2207971
Always in the same position?
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>>2207984
always within the same millimeter height, tested with a few models that I've successfully printed before and fails at the same height range
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>>2207985
is it at the height where your part cooling fan ramps up?
does the hotend temp drop?
is there anything binding up the filament feed at that height?
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>>2207988
I have fans disabled for the entire print, temp doesn't fluctuate more than 1c at any point that I check, as far as I can tell spool feeds fine, never hear gear click and never see it slipping
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do I need to do anything specific to set up an ender printer with prusaslicer
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>>2208044
nope it should all work straight out of the box, prusa slicer even has presets for the ender
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>>2207989
Check the grub screw in your filament drive gear on the motor is facing the flat surface. Check with another slicer like cura to eliminate that. What height is it occurring? Check your heigh drive screw around there.
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are these the proper octoprint settings for an ender3 clone printing at 50mm/s?
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how much troubleshooting should one expect with an ender 5 plus because I bought one in feb this year and have been bandaging and quickfixing problems nonstop ever since
my print ratio has to be 85/15 fail/success
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>>2207963
>try increasing infill overlap if perimeters arent sticking to infill,
Do you think this is perimeters not sticking to infill? Because i can tell you it's perimeters not sticking to perimeters. All I did for it was modify a polycarb profile to bring speeds down and temperatures down. Here's the second attempt, unfortunately forgot to bring the temperatures down for this one. Still usable, but a miracle Hephaestus wasn't summoned printing TPU at 260C @30mm/s.
Also the banding you're seeing is from the aforementioned tangle, nothing to do with bed leveling.
I'll try again in a bit.
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>>2207516
>faggot ass deer eats all my habanero plants
Gonna fuck em up real good with some rock salt rounds in your trap when they come back to my garden.
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>>2207801
>I just got a Voxelab Aquila (Ender 3v2)
You're too stupid to post here.
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>>2208138
God dang chilihead meadow niggers

Yesterday I finalized 9x19 end cap and diddled with the tolerances, today I'll model a cap for starter pistol rounds and hopefully I can find a spent shell from somewhere in my stuff to model the shotgun shell cap just for you. I won't guarantee that the cap will withstand shotfuns or even the parabellum since I can't test them (yet at least) but I'm hoping some hammer testing and designing it well enough will suffice. I'll be sure to upload .stp files so if need be, you can redesign the caps if you so feel.
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>>2207838
Have you tried cleaning the bed. Dust will fuck your print up.
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>>2208236
Surprised you got Minkowski to behave that well. What version?
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>>2208192
The chassis is an Ender 3 clone and they are functionally the same in stock form, yet somehow you think it's not similar any shape, way or form even though 95% of parts are interchangeable.
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>>2208236
As long as it functions once I can reprint the whole thing again as long as it keeps meadowniggers out of my garden
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>>2201299
Why won't my prints fit together?
Take pic related, for example. The top circle is exactly as large as the bottom square hole, but it still won't fit.
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>>2208319
Solidworks 2018

>>2208325
Thank you for motivating me, anon.
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>>2208334
Tolerancing on 3D printing can end up being a guessing game. Anything under 0.2mm for 0.2mm to 0.15mm layer height is almost always going to require reworking. If I want parts to fit together snugly, 0.2mm is as low of a gap as I'd go, especially if the objects have no room to bend or deform, I'd increase it little by little in at least 0.1mm increments.
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Apparently RatRig has an 8 week lead time for their orders. Is there a decent alternative if I don't want to get involved in the Voron autism? Am europoor.
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>>2208334
try measuring the actual parts with calipers because no CNC machine is absolutely perfect by itself, rather they must be tuned into perfection.
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>>2207675
it wasn't for print speed but structural strength. I didn't want to bother with the full enclosed PETG so I'm hoping this lasts.
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>>2202118
No. Get a Dragon or a Dragonfly, if you can (as a "DIY Kit" if you're in Burgerland).

Slice got awarded a patent that claims they invented the non-structural heatbreak (they didn't, first mention is from makerbot themselves on thingiverse, 2010) and is now in the process of blackmailing small shops selling Dragons to give them a cut, or being sued out of business.
Doc also removed all Slice hotend mounts from PIF, for exactly that reason.

I mean, the Mosquito is not a bad hotend, but the company selling it is shit.
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>>2207838
sounds like you suck and didn't z level. also version 4.10 of cura did exactly this shit (nothing adhered) so I rolled back to 4.9 and exact same slices were suddenly fine again. cura is on 4.11 now but I am loathe to upgrade and fuck my shit up. git gud
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>>2208334
even without elephant's foot walls are a little thicker, which means your stud is bigger and your hole is smaller. I usually go 0.2 mm for small parts (<1" overall) bigger for bigger. also for matching real world my prints are 3-4% small.
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>>2204806
Try printing inner walls before outer
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>>2208434
should've ordered two weeks ago when it was 6 weeks
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>>2208434
that's better than shipping from china. if you order now you'll have it in 2 months, if you don't it will be longer.

also is that thing well reviewed?
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>>2208468
the biggest joke is the american patent office which granted them a patent for something that existed for years before they filed it
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>>2208478
> Work in patent office for 8 bucks/hour
> Check for prior art for 5 minutes
> 'Ah, it's probably fine'
> Award patent
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>>2208480
Yeah, it's why patents are a fucking joke in the first place. Furthermore, to dispute this bullshit now you'd have to pay some patent lawyers thousands of dollars to revoke it.
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>>2208482
Yeah. Or keep selling totally unrelated parts that may or may not be assembled into a hotend.
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>>2208482
boy im sure glad we switched to first to file instead of first to invent
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>>2208434
Hypercube evolution?
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>>2207154
Sweet!
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>>2208295
Good few wipes with 99% IPA

>>2208469
I'll do another Z reset, I let it do the Z calibration which just checks (and says it's fine) but maybe I need to do the paper test again
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>>2208484
>high capacity automatic assault hotend
>>
This shit is cool as fuck.
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>>2201299
Any tips for printing soft filaments with a creality 10?
>>
Do you guys think it's creepy to print a lifesized ass in TPU?
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>>2208478
>>2208480
>>2208482
Nah, I've actually held a utility patent for some time and it's up to the patent applicant to check and see if your patent is similar to another. If you try and patent something that is already patented then you've wasted your money because your patent is now worth toilet paper.

It costs a fuck ton of money to patent something and that's why it's so important that companies will fight to the death to make sure no one is infringing on it.
>>
>>2208747
Is there going to be a place to put a fuck hole in it? If not then you should put a fuck hole in it, or a place where an onahole would fit.
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>>2208750
well my model is clothed
you know any good ones for such an application?
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>>2207936
looking at these issues now I'm realizing my cura didn't save my retract distance after upgrading the hot end to one of those micro swiss options, could this be getting caused by whatever issues would arise from retracting way too far
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>>2208543
this is my point, and my bed autolevels every print. the cura version destroyed adhesion. idk what the fuck changed.
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>>2208709
swap for a direct drive
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>>2208320
It's an i3 clone, hence the ender 3 name. Seriously kill yourself. He's right, you're about as bright as a dead blacklight.
>>
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published my first ever thing to thingiverse, just a cosmetic PC part for a air cooler. Already sanded it and will paint it tomorrow and post some pics
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>>2208883
ky00t
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>>2208749
>If you try and patent something that is already patented then you've wasted your money because your patent is now worth toilet paper.
apparently nobody told them that their invention is several years old, OOPS
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First print with PLA Silk. Stoked with how these low poly models look with the shiny filament.
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>>2208773
You are printing with a brim right Anon?
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First time poster
whats the overunder on printers that can use recycled material as filament? ie empty sprite bottles n such

I didn't know 3D printing got so commonplace and its kinda overwhelming
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>>2208977
There are no special printers which can use recycled material. Recycled filament is just plastic like any other filament. Some manufacturers make "recycled" PLA which contains a certain amount of old PLA, for example.

You can make your own recycled filament yourself as well but you will need some form of filament extruder. There are devices you can purchase (3devo) or you can nigger rig something yourself. There's a guy on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzU30Qr7NufwbemKSgUROtw/videos) who allegedly cuts up pop bottles and makes filament out of them for his printer. I say allegedly because the quality of his "extruded" filament is abysmal dogshit yet his prints aren't plagued by overextrusion and undextrusion.
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New Thread

>>2209052
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>>2208933
It's up to the company that holds the original patent to fight it.

Really shit system desu
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>>2209224
>shit system
While I agree, what kind of sense would it make for someone else to fight the patent?
>yeah I'm just going to squat on this patent and let other companies fight for me instead while I sit back and do nothing



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