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Yep, it's wood edition

Welcome to /wwg/! Here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques used to do so. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction might get a better response in /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

>essential /wwg/ books

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways, from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA.

Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws, and their use
Handplane Essentials
Handsaw Essentials
Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey!

Chris Pye wrote the book on carving, and keeps on writing them.

The eastern tradtion, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate

Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpening, how to sharpen most everything.

Bob Flexner - Finishing 101, covers the common stuff, his other books cover the uncommon and go into more depth

Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hylton, learn to design furniture that won't fall apart

>essential /wwg/ tv

Previous thread: >>2137225
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Went down to the local lumber yard today for some maple today. I wanted something curly and didn't see what I wanted, but they offered me a pallet of offcuts for $150.

I'm not done sorting it yet, but I've got numerous 3 foot long chunks of 8/4 walnut, about 10 board foot of purple heart, a good deal of s4s cherry ranging from 3/4 to 4/4, and a lot of oak scrap. Good amounts of really pretty poplar, some large hunks of ambrosia maple, and a little bit of pine and similar. Also some small 1/8" thick zebrawood, which is probably too thin for me to do anything but some inlays with, but its very pretty.

I ended up having to cut the full sizes boards I bought down to 6 ft and shove them in the truck cab because I didn't bring enough tie straps with me and I brought a small truck.
Wow, looks like lumber porn to me. Good Catch.
Build a framy thingy that you can strap long stuff to that sticks over your cab. 20 foot long, Baby!
Seriously, if you're buying wood, a bed rack is a mandatory upgrade for the truck.

I have trailers and bigger trucks. I wasn't planning to buy more than a few boards when I went, and they were going to be thick and could be cut short as they were to be table legs.
I recently got a 3018 Chinese router but I'm not exactly sure what to do with it. I got it built and connected to my computer, it seems to work OK.
What software should I use for it? I'm just a hobbyist so I don't really want to spend hundreds on something to make it run. I tried out Easel and it seems OK but it is kind of limited. I was able to carve a few words in some scrap wood and it actually looked really good. I was using a 20° bit that is about 3.17mm wide. I think I went too deep but I'm still happy with how it turned out.
Does anyone know of a good guide or website I can use to learn how to use this machine? Right now I'm just using the V bits that came with it, but I have some other shapes that I'll use after I learn more of what I'm doing. I've already broke two bits so...
Pic related is part of the text. The square was a piece of gcode someone else made for a test.
I guess technically it is a CNC machine. I also have a 3D printer so I have some limited experience in Fusion 360 but I haven't tried it to make anything for carving yet. I'm mostly interested in carving words for now.
Its kind of small but I'm hoping to get a 6040 if I like this thing. I also bought a 500w spindle but it feels really heavy compared to what is on there right now. It came with a new PSU and a knob, I'm not sure if I can control the spindle from the computer or if I have to do it manually.

Make small metal or wooden business cards

Make small relief carvings of photos (these make good gifts for old people)

Engrave an AR lower (there are jigs on 3d printing sites)
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I "made" this. It kind of looks like shit but that's OK I guess, it's just practice on a piece of shitty plywood. I tried to use some software called Easel but it is cloud-based bullshit. I downloaded something called Carbide Create instead. It's pretty easy to use.
This carving was just a Capricorn symbol that I put in a circle. I used two bits, a pointy 20° V bit and a small ball end bit. There is still a lot to learn. It kind of feels like cheating in a way...
It's nice to get dimensioned lumber.

I work at a mill and get unlimited, free but green hardwood (white and red oak, poplar, cherry, sassafras, walnut and hickory) occasional old kd wood (9/4 -3/4 dimensioned poplar, oak, and walnut not suitable for sales).

It's a pain in the ass to wait 3-6 months, cut a board and have the moisture at 12 percent.

The oak warps wicked fast and hard.

This is some cedar, sassafras be and walnut I resawed. The sassafras is air dried, the cedar was sawn in the 1980s, and the walnut is kiln dried, planed, 8ft rejected boards.
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Forgot pic,

Cedar board was 10 feet long at 5/4 and 4 wide.
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I use the poplar for organizational bins for my wife. She has a label maker and organizes for fun.
How worried should I be that the table saw I have access to doesn't have a riffing blade or splitter? It's some old discontinued Skilsaw brand table saw. It already shot wood out at me once before about half a year ago but I've used it successfully maybe 5 times since then. I use it to cut planks smaller, so like a 6-inch section off of a 6-inch board (or whatever to give me a square or proportional piece).

Make your own splitter or buy one of these


Kickback is terrifying, don't take chances.
Dang that looks really simple to make, I might try to make one and if I fail just buy that from the link. After watching this video, I don't even want to chance it.
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I did my first splines, testing depth, jig style, thickness, and material.

One kerf is easier by 3 kerf can look better on a larger project.

My wife prefers the simple elegance of single kerf 3/32 in this case.

I had lots of thin, 1/8 or less cedar left over, so I glued it to the bottom and slathered it with Zar water poly. I'll scrape the excess off tomorrow, I wanted to seal it up tighter than a duck's ass.
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I used cedar for the splines.
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Anyone here make boxes? Any tips?
Could try doing some joinery instead of just enbalming it in glue.
You've got it all wrong, that box is where he stores his glue.

It's actually a cumbox.

> 2021
> not storing your cum in a handcrafted cedar serving tray
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That's waterborne polyurethane, I wiped off the glue, it dried clear

Poplar box 3

I'm making these from cutoffs from my poplar 2x8x16 boards.
I want to try and carve some grips for handguns. I have never carved any wood but I am willing to fuck up a lot to figure it out.

I have most tools that wouldn't be specific to carving. What is a good way to start, kutzall burrs, a good layout, and some patience? I would like to do walnut or some glued up maple / cherry.

I would particularly like to do some for a contender pistol. Doing simple scales for a 1911 or whatever seems pretty self explanatory, but single shots and revolvers seem so much more interesting to try.
If i want an extremely bare bones wood working setup can i get away with a jig saw, drill, palm sander, and square? Just for some pallet wood projects

I have access to table and band saws, i just can't fit one in my apartment, so looking for a saw to handle most things

Probably, but a circular saw and saw guide would make your life a lot easier.

For that kind of thing a kreg pocket hole jig would also be a lifesaver.
is magnolia or japanese maple wood valued for anything? what about rhododendron? Got a bunch I just cut and if I cant make anything out of it its going on the permaculture garden or in the bonfire.
Would a reciprocating saw work with a guide
I realized one with a demo blade would make tearing pallets down much faster
a receip saw is for demolition, not for anything in which you give even the littlest fuck about the quallity of the edge it leaves on the wood you're cutting down
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I made two more boxes today in between home Reno projects.

One box is poplar from a cutoff. I used a standard but joint.

The other box is sassafras and walnut with rbbetsl
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Any ideas on how I could add a knife or splitter to this table saw? Looks like the stock one may have went in the bracket at the bottom but these models were discontinued some time ago.

Replace that red insert with a homemade zero clearance insert, build the splitter into that.
Honestly, table saw is the one tool I don't really want. I can get by with other types of saws. I don't like the distinct possibility of cutting my fingers off, or having a piece of wood back-kick through my right kidney.

Am I just being a pussy? Should I take the tablesaw pill?
the same thing can happen with a circular saw, including the saw itself kicking back towards you

Tablesaws should scare you. Almost all accidents are due to complacency, but weird shit can happen that cannot be reasonably foreseen.

I bought a sawstop PCS and jessem stock guides. My odds of cutting my fingers off is now about zero and the chance of kickback is near nothing. On the minus side I'm out $3500 and I still suck at woodworking.

Realistically if a tablesaw spooks you that much, you can still get a jobsite sawstop or contractor model for not that terribly much. In addition to the safety features, they're generally the best saw in whatever class they're in anyway.
A miterbox, radial arm, or circ will hurt you just the same if you misuse them. You practice with the tools, control the tool and piece going through it, take several extra set-up steps if the cut is dicey.
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My sister had a baby recently and she asked me if I could make her a Pikler Triangle, it's a play thing for young babies and toddlers that helps them develop motor skills and whatnot. Most of them cost around $300 so she asked me if I could just make her one with what I have in my shop, I'm a pretty inexperienced woodworker but I have no issue making something simple like pic related.

The issue is, I looked up prices for dowels and they're pretty expensive, and I've never made my own dowels before but I have the lumber to create my own if I want to, but I don't have a cutting tool or any idea how to make a proper jig for creating dowels that are about 3ft wide.

Anyone have any tips on what kind of tools I need, what kind of jig I could make to do this relatively fast and easy? Making the lumber for the dowels is easy with just a table saw, but actually rounding them out is what I'm inexperienced with doing and have no idea what kind of cutting tool I would need or how I would even set up a jig for doing this to make the 30 or so dowels I would need for making it.
>, I looked up prices for dowels and they're pretty expensive
$50 at home depot for all the 1 inch dowels you'd need for that

>but I don't have a cutting tool or any idea how to make a proper jig for creating dowels that are about 3ft wide
you need a lathe and that is going to cost you a lot more. looks like about $250 for a literally who lathe, or $1k for something from grizzly

Do you have a router? Rip a 2x4 into 1x1s and go after it with a round over bit. It won't be a dowel but it'll be a rounded oblong that should work just as well.
start with a square piece and round them with a spokeshave?
pretty quick to do and i dont see why those have to be perfectly round.
or just buy the dowels for the price you'd spent on the tool
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I actually wanted to make them out of oak, and oak dowels are pretty expensive. If I can't figure out a way to do it cheap I'll just use pine though. I am making them around 30" length each dowel and I need around 22 dowels total for what I'm planning on making, a triangle for climbing, and a half circle one, with a ramp that will be able to be attached between each one. pic related is the other piece.

This might actually work, I have a router table, the only issue is the fence wouldn't be long enough to run 3' pieces of lumber through, maybe I could build an extension to my fence so that it's a lot longer just for doing this though. I have a 1/2" bit I could use 4x should get me a 1" dowel.

Thank you for the idea

That would work, but it would probably be pretty rough and I plan on inserting the dowels into the sides for extra strength.

Thank you for the responses guys
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Some people use bandsaws for ripping, or you could do a straight line saw from an old shop. They're not that expensive.

I do crazy things with my saw involving heavy, thick, long hardwoods, so the blade just stops. Only when I fuck with pieces under an inch thick (4/4) and less than three feet long do I get kickback. But I also stand far away and use huge push sticks.

I've been hit twice, wearing a jacket and then an apron, left a bruise on my stomach. Both times I was doing work on a small piece and didn't have the fence perfectly alighlned.

I make stuff like this oak quarter round (it's really more like inch round)
Radial arms are safer, but cheap aluminum saws from the 1980s can really hurt you.
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I used a router with a 1/4 round bit.
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I made some wavy edge trim to hide the shame of my bad rabbets on box 3.

I'll glue them up and attach them to the box a demain.

The sassafras bottom still smells of rootbeer
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Can I even make a zero clearance insert for this? The red plate is thinner than the saw blade! Everything I've seen shows thick inserts, around 1/2 inch.
>what kind of jig I could make to do this relatively fast and easy
from timestamp

>I actually wanted to make them out of oak
Bruh it's for a baby.
you could make a thicker insert and rout out parts of to make it fit
the lift mechanism might collide with the bottom of a thicker insert

That is thin but I think its doable. You will definitely have some work fitting it though.
Lads I got a fucking problem. Im in the middle of a pantry remodel. Im building a bunch of shelves out of 1x4 and am about halfway done. I changed my design slightly so I wound up needing 10 more boards. The problem is that the box stores near me are selling 3/8"x3 1/2" as 1x4s so thats just not going to work. So, I went to the lumberyard and picked some up. And when I got home most of the wood is covered in some blue stain. Which what ever, Im going to paint it anyway so I can live with that, but half of the wood is covered in black and white surface mold. This is the second fucking lumber yard ive tried and both had the same fucking thing going on.

Would bleaching and scrubbing be enough to make this wood safe for a pantry? I have until tomorrow to finish this project so im fucking at a loss for what to do.
That looks like dog shit. Im guessing with soft wood you need to make lots of thin passes for it to not spall like that

Bleach is like the go to safety for mold, I think that would be fine.

If you're in a major hurry the zinsser alcohol based primer is mold resistant and dries in about 20-30 min. But honestly bleach it and throw it out in the sun a bit IMO
Get a couple of 2x4s, rip cut so you have two 1.5" square boards, then cut a quarter inch off each corner so you have an octagon and then sand the edges round. And you will have large dowels for a fraction of the price without buying a lathe
Ok thanks.
>zinsser alcohol based primer
Is that basically the same as kilz? I know mold removal companies paint everything with kilz after treating it.
that blue stain is a non toxic fungus that grows in the sapwood of softwoods.
You cannot get the stains out, but the fungus stops when the wood drys out
if you still are worried, wikipedia says try one of the following fungicides
>Fluorfolpet, Dichlofluanid, Tolylfluanid, Iodocarb, Carbendazim
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I got some books for cheap on wood and design ideas.

Same purpose I guess. I used it when I took the popcorn off my bathroom ceilings because I wanted to finish in a day and not have to deal with drop cloths in my bathroom while I was trying to take a shit.

It costs more than most primers but nothing too crazy
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Im not worried about the blue stain. Its annoying but what ever i can work with it. There is definitely a lot of mold the wood though. Look at this shit quality wood.
this looks like my own air dried shit
hope you didnt pay full price, but in my experience not an issue beside optics (thou i actually like the black once the wood aged red)

Damn, that passes for dimensioned lumber near you? I've bought rough cut that looks better than that.
why did you buy spalted wood? also this is probably fungus and not mold.
molds are fungi.
>dunnage grade
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I cut some 11ft cherry today. It was 5/4 rough at 9 inches wide.

It's finally dry enough, was cut around Christmas last year.
That's a big cherry tree m8
Mines probably only 5" at the fattest part of the trunk. Tasty sour cherries though.
>tips on making boxes
(Dont want to scroll to find post number)

if you are just making trays you can resaw them into two thinner stock, maybe with one side slightly thicker. 3/4 is kinda thick. for smaller ones they can be thinner.
If not comfortable with joinery looking good, lapped hidden dovetails are quite forgiving and easy. Lapped butt join is also much better looking and than just pieces of rectangular boards glued/nailed together.
Can't be more specific with tips unless we know the kind of boxes you are aiming for
How, just how, can I make plane, square pieces of wood? Every time I try woodworking it's almost as crooked as a politician.

I want to make a medium sized locomotive for my friends young one who is 4 months now. So I need to baby-proof the damn thing too, meaning no sharp edges / splinters.

How the fuck do you guys do it?
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I still struggle. It takes time, patience, good saws, squaring shit with true instruments...hell my tape measures are mostly off.

Not much is square, plumb, flush, etc, our cabinets are 3 inches off the wall at the top and 2 3/32 at the bottom. I ripped two pieces of cherry super carefully and still had a little gap. The kerf is a bitch.
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You need a scroll saw for toys, and some good s4s stock. A sanding block or router for edges

Pic is my effort to match stain on cherry with shellac.
I have all that but I still struggle. Except the wood I just use junk wood.
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You'll never get it perfect, even with power tools, seasonal warping and air conditioning all ducks wood.

Look at grain patterns at the store bf you buy. Look for good, tight matching patterns.

Nothing I do is square
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Why for the life of me can I not get pic related right. I've wasted days of labor at this point on what seems like a simple joint. Either I end up shaving too much off one side or it ends up an immaculate fit but completely off center.
Am I a brainlet or is this actually difficult? Matt Estlea made it look so easy
youre a brainlet. take a day off, watch some more videos of other people doing it and really pay attention to their technique, and then practice more nigga till you fucking get it right
Just kept practicing probably. Work with wood that's flat and square and mark one side as the reference face.

Paul sellers also has a good video on it.

Rex Kruger does too but paul probably does it better
I learned how to make those in the 7th grade.

Years of practice got me good at it.

Days? Put some months into it. Most of it is measuring, and being patient and taking your time. If you think this is hard, try hand cutting dovetails.
>You'll never get it perfect, even with power tools, seasonal warping and air conditioning all ducks wood.
Nonsense. That's just you. Getting something square is not that hard, given enough practice, technique, and not sperging out while making something.
I have a box I made in the 9th grade, hand cut dovetails, inset hinges, lined with felt, that is still perfectly square and lines up on all sides perfectly straight.

They not be 90 degree angles to six decimal places, but they're close enough you'd have to use a protractor to see.
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hey anyone know a good site where I might be able to find a full ilst of replacement parts for pic related in the future? right now the only thing broken is the guard but worst case I can remove that, best case replace or find alternative parts. Right now it just stays down completely so im guessing the mechanism (50 on the spec page?) is broken due to part of the guard also being broken.
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My mother asked me to flatten her little MDF cutout of our shitty state because its warped from being out on her screened in porch. I told her to pick out some scrap wood and I would just make her a new one.

I got the idea to (roughly) line it up with the regions of NC, which worked out reasonably well. I wanted the dividers to have a more severe angle, but I just used scrap boards so my glued up board was small and i couldn't angle it any more.

The western mountains are red oak, the Piedmont is walnut, and the coastal plain is hard maple. Dividers are cedar with white oak trimmed around it.

I did learn a valuable lesson about planing across the grain. After doing the board glue up she told me that it would be too thick and needed to be about 1/2" thick. As it was already glued up, I took it through my planer fractions of an inch at a time. The ribbons of wood it created were something else, and will immediately clog a six inch dust collector inlet. So yeah, you can plane across grain, but it sucks and you'll have a lot of cleanup to do.

I told her to paint whatever gay woman pinterest motivational garbage she was going to on it and I would seal it, since it's going outside.

Get a marking gauge
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For that machine one should not find value in buying new parts. The older Miter Saws can't keep square well and the Delta's from that era can be used for rough framing work, but won't be ideal for projects with tighter tolerances.

A $100 metabo 10 inch would be significantly more accurate, safe, and give you more satisfaction using.
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You're right, I was offering support to another DIYer who might spend less time, and less money on professional grade tools, doing this.

I'm only just getting started with dimensioning rough sawn wood and it seems like accuracy comes with a high price tag. When I look at good measuring devices, like Incra and the like, they run upwards of a $100-$500. I have a swanson combo square and can't shell out 100 for a pro grade model.

I do have some pro equipment I've inherited, like a really nice cabinet saw, planer, miter saw, and some routers, but getting perfect 6' rips with a fence that cost less than 300 bucks seems taxing.

I find myself using a hand jointing plane to make the final fits.
Is there any special thing to do when laminating a sole to a wood bodied or soled plane? I have a transitional jack plane I really like using, but the sole is getting a little skinny after planing it flat when I first got it and then truing it again after a year. The iron is threatening to stick out even if it's totally retracted. Would it matter if the new sole isn't quartersawn? I'm planning to use hard maple.
This looks like pallet wood
do you work with metals?
Im strongly considering stripping kitchen of anything that wasnt installed when i signed lease, and making it a work shop

I am thinking center is for big projects and has a built in dust collection port with side work bench being smaller stuff and maybe some stationary powertools

What stationary tools should i get that cant really be done with a handheld tool? I want as few as possible since wont live here forever
Currently thinking a planer and a drill press, was going to get a saw but most saws if not all can be replaced with a sawzall, jigsaw, or circular saw
It's harder than you'd think to replace a drill press

If you'd have use for it a bench belt sander is a massive leap ahead of the alternatives.

You really can't replace a tablesaw. Maybe if you have a bigass bandsaw like some euro shops, but a tablesaw does too many things too well.
Due to the layout i dont think i can fit a proper table saw, im going to have to make due with guides and a circular saw

You gotta do what you gotta do, just pointing out that the versatility of a tablesaw and various jigs is nearly irreplaceable
do a dovetail
in a woodworking general?
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im only here to steal wood secrets to make better handles for metal tools

you can get away with a jobsite tablesaw if you also have a good tracksaw setup

I have the ridgid R4520 which is a decent entry level saw, but I'd probably go jobsite saw if I were starting over

my track saw setup is the makita LXT tracksaw (I already use makita and it's festool compatible so it's a no-brainer), plus the TSO parallel guides and track squares

it's not a cheap setup by any means but it's a dream to use, I can easily get sub 1mm accurate cuts, and doing rips on a full sheet of ply is much easier than on a standard tablesaw. The TSO gear is insanely well built and accurate, if you can swing it, I would highly recommend it.
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Space limits me from doing this, I have a huge cabinet saw under the carport, but my wood shop stores all outside things.

I'd really like a track saw.

By the way, finally got the cherry to match.
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Stained after sanding on left, right is no sanding after reading 5/4 cherry board.

I took it from 10 inches to about 5.5 wide.
track saws are great, the cut quality is amazing and they're convenient for one-off cuts at weird angles you don't want to jig up
Ah shit, I just spilt solvent on a wooden table and the varnish looks fucked up
What do I need to do to fix it? Will I likely need to sand the varnish off and reapply varnish?
I poured water on it but I wasn't quick enough
Please tldr me it i'm drunk atm
hey /wwg/
which links in the OP would help me get started on small wooden figure carving?
Small, decorative pieces mostly.
my longterm goal is casting my own blockplane, but casting is postponed during the summer
i dont want to burn down the farm lol
sounds fair to me. the only thing i would've done was try and fix the plastic + replace the saw blade. Was a "oh shit look at this saw on the sidewalk" find anyway so not like I spent anything.
With this project, besides standars dust collection what kinda of filtration will i need? Im not sure what my options for a non permanent filtration system is
Use youtube
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Yeah, they're on Craigslist and Facebook here for 20 bucks bc newer delta isn't classic delta. Their old radial arms are great!

Here's some spalted cherry.
Made in Taiwan. Use it until something better comes along and ditch it. It is not a keeper.
This. This was when they were shipping all of their manufacturing overseas. You have to go for early Pentair-era tools (1980s and early 1990s) or the Rockwell era stuff to get to their good tools. Even then, some of their old stuff were turds. They started to slide back in the late 1960s when corporate profits became more important than quality products.
>Their old radial arms are great!
I have found them to be a mixed bag. Their really old radials are amazing for the time. They called them Multiplex with the number being for the size. Everything made out of cast aluminum, super heavy duty, real tanks. The 'A' and 'B' series were top of the line (IE Multiplex 40A or 40B) but the C series was a lesser unit. That was the last of the multiplex line (IE Multiplex 40C or simply 40C the last few years) and it inferior to the originals but still very good. After that, they started cheapening the line a lot more. The Model 900 and Super 900 were pretty weak consumer level saws but the 990 and Super 990 decent. Once they changed the model numbers to start with 33 (IE 33-285) around the late 1960s they were basically dead and should be avoided.
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Shellac on walnut, poplar and cherry, I may do it on the panel I just made
Post more of you custom bandsaw pls.
I get 1/8” 2’x4’or 4’x8’ hardboard panels and cut them to small panels for painting. 5x7, 6x8 mostly. I use a straight edge and utility knife to score and snap them and then sand the edges. It’s pretty labor intensive and time consuming is there an easier way to do this manually without fancy power tools?
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The spalted cherry with wipe on poly
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My saw barely got through this 7*4 oak timber. The lights dimmed.
>I use the poplar for organizational bins for my wife.
Anon knows how to be poplar with the ladies.
Well I'm improving rapidly. I think I'll make myself a belt-sanding rig for smaller parts since it's a bitch to get it right free-hand.
Also gramps showed me how to use the 5-in-1 machine so I can get at least straight raw materials which helps a lot ...

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