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A Full Cup edition.
Old thread: >>2130850
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Prusa Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.
>>
>>2134496
I am in the OP! yay
>>
> that interior
While it looks like shit I am so impressed I have no words
>>
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>>2134548
talking about the third gen camaro interior?
yeah it's trashed.
I ripped the rear seats out recently and replaced the front seats, the prior owner had them looking like diarrhea happened in all 4 seats lol
>>
Does anyone here have any experience fooling about with laser scanners? I'm considering giving my macro photogrammetry rig a laser mode in the hope of getting better geometry from smooth objects. Is there any open laser scan software that can combine multiple rotations from different angles?
>>
>>2134567
why would you mount you printer on springs?
I know its for silence, but I've never understood this.
>>
>>2134592
We only print parts for enders here.
>>
>>2134610
There are two ways of dealing with resonance, one is to stiffen shit up to where the amplitude is marginal, the other is to let it flop around without deforming the frame. It unironically could lead to better prints, if the plastic itself doesn't sway too much when being printed.
>>
>>2134567
Does the person holding the camera have parkinson's or something? Is there an earthquake in progress? Why is the background of the video itself shaking?
>>
What's the best way to print lithophane on Sla printers?
I just picked up a mono x and I'm fairly new to resin printing.
>>
>>2134710
Thats actually a good question. You may have to find a website that will convert an image into a lithopane obj or stl file. Filament printer slicers have litho conversion built in, but I have never tried it on resin, and I don't think any of the slicers have it.
>>
>>2134710
Just... print one. Unless you're having a specific problem there's not really any tips that would be helpful unlike with FDM lithophanes.
>>
>>2134703
It's the camera anti-shake getting confused as to whether it's the camera or the printer that's shaking.
>>
>>2134713
>>2134714
I want to print the full size of the print bed and it has layer shifts and looks terrible in general.
I have watched some videos of nerdrtronics YouTube videos on Sla printing and they are helpful.
If I reorient them it drastically increases print time and I have been avoiding that. I will do what I must however.
>>
>>2134723
SLA's biggest issue is suction pressure. Trying to print a litho directly flat on the plate will lead to a ton of force required to lift the bottom full coverage layers off. You would have to massively reduce pull speed and increase pull time to attempt to soften the layer separation and reduce shifting.

Generally you want to print everything on an SLA at a diagonal tilt with supports because it lowers the amount of surface contact per layer so its less likely to have problems, and it shifts the location of the layer lines so they are less visible.

When it comes down to it your options are either, go super super fucking slow and hope it works, or do things at an angle and over more total layers. Either way you are increasing print time.
>>
>>2134729
I'll keep testing and try this out. Better to up the print time then waste resin on failures.
Thanks anon.
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>>2134729
>>2134723
With lithophanes, angling them actually increases the contact area. Same rectangle, rotated 30deg, and you can see the red is where the slanted one has a wider horizontal footprint. The "tilting an SLA print" thing is really only useful for short, fat parts, not tall, narrow ones for this reason.

You do print a little faster, though, since the height's less.
>>
>>2134729
Is there any benefit to printing objects at say a 45° angle on a FDM machine?
>>
>>2134740
Strength along layer lines, better access to cooling, or "beauty surfaces" facing up instead of being supported are usually the biggest considerations
>>
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>>2134741
This is the pic that made me wonder. I haven't really seen any other model printed at an angle like this.
>>
>>2134743
With that one, note how the front-facing/display parts have no support; if you printed it vertically, you'd have to support the chin, nose, probably glasses, and hat brim, then get rid of all those supports, and have not-great results because supported surfaces always look like crap. This way it's all on on the back where nobody can see it
>>
>>2134738
>Angling a lithopane shortens print time and increases contact area on SLA
Wtf are you talking about
>>
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>>2134757
Literally posted a snippet of a vertical vs angled lithophane in the post you linked to. Read the post again. Here's the full picture. Less height = less print time.
>>
>>2134759
You are 100% wrong in context? Why in the world would anyone print a lithopane side to side? He was asking about using the entire build area, aka from bottom to top. Horizontally laying down flat like you would in FDM.
>>
>>2134759
This isn't even plausible with SLA since you would be printing islands for floating dots just barely hanging onto the bottom "plate" which would lead to tons of failed sideways pixels
>>
>>2134747
That makes sense. I'll have to try it out if I ever print something with overhangs that has to look good on the front.
>>
>>2134763
>using the entire build area
This is ambiguous
>from bottom to top
Sure
>Horizontally laying down flat like you would in FDM
Now you've lost me. How is "from bottom to top" compatible with "laying down flat"?
>>2134729 is the post that mentioned printing flat on a plate, the post they replied to just mentioned "full size of the print bed" which could be kind of loosely interpreted as either full XY coverage or max build height

>>2134768
What? You'd only have islands if you print the textured surface down. Lithophanes have a smooth back face, if you angle it towards that then the "pixels" will still be attached to the front/top, so no islands
>>
I'm looking at getting an E3 Max. I'm not going to be printing anything crazier than PP since 90% of my work will be molds or components that can be made with most common filaments.
>What problems should I expect?
>Will E3 firmware (with build space adjustments) work on the E3 Max?
OEM from reality has the meanwell supply so hopefully I shouldn't lose my house, what else should I consider upgrading?
>>
>>2134773
>What? You'd only have islands if you print the textured surface down. Lithophanes have a smooth back face, if you angle it towards that then the "pixels" will still be attached to the front/top, so no islands
Until you have a single layer of a new island with no support under it, only to the side, and the build plate pulls up and the little stringy not fully cured noodle peels off and droops down and ruins the print. When the plate goes back down and moves through the liquid it will be pushed around and not line back up perfectly. Rigidity is key for SLA structure
The only plausible way to print a lithopane side to side in SLA would be to do it at an angle of probably 45* so the pixels build upwards at a semi stable angle and get enough strength to stay sturdy.
>>
>>2134740
You get a substantial increase in strength for what would otherwise be small cross-section parts while not giving up much accuracy. Downside is the use of filaments for supports.
>>
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>>2134776
You're going to have to provide a drawing or cross section or something as an example, lithophanes just don't have that kind of geometry to be creating islands that are unattached to the rest of the model. That would only happen if you've got a negative angle somewhere, which goes against the whole idea of them.
>print side to side
Okay, yeah, I'm going to need a diagram. Any angle that's 90deg or less would work, but *any* angle *other than* 90 degrees will result in a larger cross-sectional area. Any angle greater than 90deg could lead to islands.
>>
>>2134743
That kind of multi material printing is wasteful it really pisses me off. I'm not even a hippie.
>>
Guys my experience with 3d printing and CAD just got me a really great job. I'm going to learn a ton and maybe get to work with very nice 3d printers one day. Buying a first 3d printer is probably the best decision I've ever made.
>>
>>2134776
I know the principle but in a lithophane the lateral protrusions won't be long enough to cause a problem
>>
>>2134803
What kind of job? I've already got that experience, and I could use a summer job while getting my degree.
>>
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>>2134803
Good job, anon, that makes two of us.
>get 3D printer in high school
>dick around on it for a while
>sell some trinkets throughout HS and college while learning to model and CAD
>end up getting a job where I am the overseer of the print lab and get to design/launch space hardware
>>
>>2134832
That's awesome. That's a lot more impressive than my job, but with this experience I could definitely move up afterwards.
>>
>>2134832
Care to share some tips?
Been into 3D printing and CAD for almost a decade now and I had no luck getting into a job that makes use of either.
>>
>>2134841
Good luck. Make sure people can count on you / know who you are and you'll move up in no time.

>>2134849
Make sure 3D printing isn't the only thing you can do, particularly these days - I got the job in part due to me being able to make renders as well as showing I can work with my hands (building things on my own, not just assembling pre-made kits or recreating something someone else has made. Make sure you can show that you're more than just a CAD monkey that they give some sketches to; lots of what I do is "we have this problem and this is what needs to be done, what kind of solutions can you offer and how fast can you make it?". And, this is less applicable for larger companies/corporations, but try and have a good culture fit with companies you look into, it helps a ton. Don't pretend you're something you're not, you'll hate trying to go with the crowd against what you personally like.
>>
>>2134856
I'm an avid /diy/er, I work well with hands and tools and I like to do it. As far as CAD goes I'd say I have gained a good amount if experience in problem solving over the years of designing my own parts for my Ender or Mendel.
This is, of course, alongside a masters in biotech engineering and all the related skills that come with that.
>>
>>2134865
Those two things do not correlate. Liar confirmed.
>>
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>>2134743
I swear this style of multi-color printing needs to die simply because of how wasteful it is. CMYK mixing heads need to become the new standard, picrel, the colors are so much better and no waste! literally perfect
>>
>>2134883
Spoken like a true poorfag
>>
>>2134884
kys purgeblock cuck
>>
>>2134883
>mixing heads
>no waste
Pretty sure you still need to purge if you want a sharp color transition and not a gradual one.
>>
>>2134793
>>2134804
If you are only doing a dinky little lithopain with near 0 depth and a super thick back it isn't much issue but why even bother at that point? If you want a real decent 3d depth you will have longer bits sticking out without support. And either way, if you are printing it this way all layer lines are going to be visible and look awful. You want to atleast have a decent angle to get the layer shifts out of straight on view.
>>
Are there any affordable and open SLA printers like the Ender-3 is for FDM?
>>
>>2134883
What were those printed on? I can tell it's a delta but do you know what hotend they used?
>>
>>2134923
You shouldn't see layer lines in SLA when it's done correctly. If you align the model with a slant though you might see aliasing which is not what you want. Personally I would do it standing up because fuck trying to remove something flat like that from the build plate
>>
>>2134937
quadfusion
>>
>>2134932
The anycubic photon mono x is around $600 now.

>>2134942
I put a flex plate on it and it pops the litho off pretty easy, also the litho just fails and falls off half the time flat on the buildplate do to suction like was said earlier.

>>2134961
Can a delta use a purge bucket? Would it be less wasteful with a quadfusion and bucket?
>>
So I can already model in Blender, are there any resources on modeling specifically for printing?
>>
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>>2134923
>with near 0 depth and a super thick back
I get this is probably an example taken to the extreme but I really hope you know that that defeats the point of a lithophane completely.
>real decent 3d depth
You only need enough depth to carry across the spectrum of the image, nothing more. If you don't have any pure black or pure white areas or are willing to compromise contrast you can make it thinner
>>
>>2134978
>are there any resources on modeling specifically for printing?
Honestly googling problems you run into should solve most of them. Just make sure you export Selected Only (if you have extra crap in your scenes e.g. old versions or parts of bools like I do) and that you get the scale correct. Hopefully your stuff's manifold.

I have no idea if this is in the latest release of Blender (since I'm stubborn and still mostly use 2.79) but the 3D Printing Toolbox is super helpful.
https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/latest/addons/mesh/3d_print_toolbox.html
>>
Hi, 'bout to buy my first 3d printer, Creality CR-10s Pro.
What's the best software for prints? lot of videos says Ultimaker Cura
And one more thing, can I use it connected by usb or my unique option is sd card port?
Thank you all in advice
>>
>>2134987
alright. I guess manifold and no overlapping are the rules. How lazy can I be with bools to get around that stuff?
>>
>>2134998
>no manifold
Correct
>no overlapping
Ehh... generally correct but there's edge cases, but I don't want to detail them because they come up very rarely - so, yeah, no overlapping.
>how lazy can I be with bools
If you've worked with bools in blender at all, you know that they, for lack of better words, fucking suck. They're not complete garbage but I've pretty much always had to do manual cleanup to get the geometry I want. That said, they're serviceable and you can use them pretty normally, but I'd definitely check any models for manifold or any other weird shit before printing them. I've had cases where there's mystery voids or entire shapes refused to print because they were parsed as inside out or something. Also, would be worth checking your normals, I just remembered - it's easy, it's fast, and there's a command to quickly fix them, so there's no reason not to.
>>
>>2134961
>quadfusion
Can you even buy that? I can't seem to find a way to on the M3D website https://store.printm3d.com/collections/the-quadfusion-print-head
>>
>>2134993
Cura is a good option for a beginning and also for someone with more experience. There are a ton of settings to play with but most of them are hidden by default. Another option would be Slicer/Slicer Prusa Edition (PE)/SuperSlicer. I've only tried SS and there are a lot of options to configure with that one but it's not too hard to figure out.
You should be able to connect it to your PC with USB. All it really does is simplify sending the gcode over to print. Otherwise just move the files to SD and print that way.
>>
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Wow, look how at the jt and long the nozzles are for the QuadFusion. They aren't threaded either, they are held in place with a set screw
>>
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Here's your hotend bro. That'll be $2,995 + tip
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>>2135107
To be fair, it does go on a $10k machine but still.
>>
>>2134743
>2021
>Still not purging into infill
>>
>>2135119
The wipe tower was the actual print. The model with Josef's stupid face was an unfortunate byproduct.
>>
>>2134496
Does having 3d printed parts as part of the frame in a 3d printer affect stability? I was thinking about building a corexy but the hevort, voron, ratrig, etc all have printed parts as a part of the frame as opposed to just metal parts.
>>
>>2135129
Aren't those types of parts printed with ABS? I'm sure if it was a shitty print it would lower stability but a lot of people use printed parts on their printers.
>>
probably a stupid question but if we can figure out esteps just by inspecting our hardware then why do we have to calibrate it by measuring filament?
>>
>>2135129
Depends on the exact placement of those parts, but material choice also matters.
I know ABS is the go to for such parts but that's shit for rigidity, it's more flexible than PLA. The only good choice you have is Nylon/CF.

Also look at Jubilee, as far as I know the frame uses blind joints all around.
>>
>>2134496
My ender 3 pro is totally fucked, the head/extruder caked in plastic

Best way to remove the old wiring/put in a new front end? Any videos?
I was thinking of cutting the wires from the old and new pieces then using electrical tape to put them together instead of attaching the new pieces to the mobo
>>
>>2135230
post pics
>>
>>2135234
Will do once I'm home anon
>>
>>2135129
Material and part geometry helps. Also, don't overestimate the loads printers are under. They're very minimal.
>>
>>2135249
of feet.
>>
>>2135138
>>2135229
>>2135290
Thanks for the answers, I'll look into some different materials but I doubt I'll be able to handle nylon very well on my current printer. Thanks for the help!
>>
>>2135181
knowing how the board talks to and drives the stepper motors is one thing. But no two motors are the same and there are lots of different setups with different things to account for. eg. bowden tube vs direct drive, bowden tube length, different hot ends have different flow rates, ect.

Calibration means calibration. Making sure what we know on the software side is actually translating to reality is incredibly important
>>
>>2135350
Abs is more rigid than straight nylon.
NylonCF isn't the wonder material people are making it out to be. It needs special requirements such as a 60~70C chamber to print properly to actually produce the strength and rigidity touted in the data shiet.
>inb4 hurr dhurr I print in open air.
>>
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>>2135376
>It needs special requirements such as a 60~70C chamber to print properly to actually produce the strength and rigidity touted in the data shiet
You are so wrong I don't even know where to begin.
>>
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>>2135383
>inb4 memeMiner
You really do need 60+C to get any benefit out of using nylon. Otherwise ABS+CF was a thing for a short period and you could get away with 40~50C enclosures for better strength than the nylon filaments.
>>
>>2135383
I really can't wrap my head around you retards printing moderate/hight cost engineering materials in a matter where there is only the most marginal improvement over PLA/ABS/PETG.
>>
>>2135384
That's only if you go full retard with stuff meant to be used in industrial machinery.
Here's what I use that I can print on a stock E3
https://colorfabb.com/media/datasheets/tds/colorfabb/TDS_E_ColorFabb_PA_CF_low_warp.pdf

Also when you snap pics of tables include the header as well you nig.
>>
>>2135387
I can't wrap my head around faggots like you who shitpost endlessly in this thread for no reason.
>>
Guys I just assembled my first printer, a Ender 3 V2. What do I do now, print a boat?
>>
>>2135368
alright that makes sense. so you can use the physical attributes as kind of a baseline for the calibration process. ill keep that in mind when im calibrating.
>>
>>2135394
First you need to calibrate/tune your printer.
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
Go from at least the First Layer section to Retraction Tuning. Once you complete the calibration process, you can print that gay little boat if you want. I've never printed one and a lot of others haven't too, but if you just start printing it without calibrating you'll probably end up with a pile of spaghetti.
>>
>>2135394
Just do it bro, you want to see the thing move right? Calibration is for faggots.
>>
>>2135412
>Calibration is for faggots
>t. orange team player
>>
>>2134801
you just need to make the purge tower a real model where color isn't important.
>>
>>2135394
yeah you can, calibration right of the box isn't necessary most of the time these days. rather just leveling the bed and slicing a model is all you gotta do, the other anon is definitely a faggot. This is all assuming your printer is new from creality

t. cr10 owner that started printing right out of the box and waited forever to calibrate anything.
>>
>>2135495
What is calibration and how is it different from leveling?
I just started printing the gcode of "dog-2h" it came with. I think I had the bed a bit too close to the nozzle and not 100% level. But so far I don't see much wrong and it's sticking to the bed. But that "2h" must have meant Hydrogen gas because according to the printer it will take 4 hours.
I'm excited.
There was a bit of a burning plastic smell for a minute or two but it's gone now.
>>
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>>2135384
they recommend an enclosure but it works great with a nice hot bed and nozzle in my experience
3dxTech CARBONX PA6+CF
>>
>>2135387
All of materials science and engineering is minmaxing what you have and what you can afford, otherwise everybody here would be printing PEEK and every car in the world would be made out of titanium and aerogel
>>
how feasible it is to find videogame assets ripped from the games and printing them? I'm looking for simple figures to print but most often than not i find recreations that simply look like shit and i would rather use the actual low poly models at that point
>>
>>2135513
Not very. Game models don't have to be printable, particularly older ones which had lower limits on polycount. You get tons of floating geometry or disconnected pieces which make the model non-manifold, or there's a lot of detail in textures instead of on the model instead and you get featureless lumps without any details.
>>
Tbh, I am quite content for the first print
>>
>>2135525
>You get tons of floating geometry or disconnected pieces which make the model non-manifold
how difficult would that be to fix it myself if the only experience i have so far is "i can make holes in meshmixer"?
>or there's a lot of detail in textures instead of on the model instead and you get featureless lumps without any details.
wouldn't be too big of a problem really, i can brush them off as minimal something something or whatever
>>
>>2135526
turn on retraction bro, im guessing bowden? 6mm at like 60mms should be good
>>
>>2135525
>there's a lot of detail in textures instead of on the model instead and you get featureless lumps without any details
3D printing is the lofi of manufacturing so this really is more of a feature than anything else
>>
>>2135529
Will do sir :D
this was the premade Gcode that came with the printer
>>
>>2135513
For newer games you can get quite good results, depending on how big a statue you want, and lots of people are doing something like this already. As I understand it though the models usually want a bit of cleaning, fixing and maybe even resculpting so don't expect to just rip a game model and print it straight away.
>>
I've started doing research on what printer I am going to buy. So far I see the Quidi X-Pro as my best bet.

What I'm looking for is:
Ability to print dissolvable support structure (probably/preferably with a duel extruder system)
heated build plate
not restricted to proprietary filament/software (or a VERY easy/established method of bypassing these things)
prints PLA out of the box consistently without serious issues. I am ok with troubleshooting stuff and experimenting but I want to have basic PLA-only prints to work with fairly minimal problems.
$500 or less (if its a little over 500 i can live with it if it has other redeeming factors like auto-bed leveling or something)
build volume that is reasonably large/as big as I can get, but as long as it is reasonable I care about other stuff more.
in general just not a piece of shit. Not going for industrial grade but I want the thing to actually work.

Like I said, the best match I have seen is the Qidi X-Pro. The FlashForge Creator Pro/Creator Max would do it too, but as far as I can tell they really dont offer much that the Qidi models don't and are a few hundred dollars more.

Im looking to print a suit of Master Chief armor (I cant spell Mijolnir) from halo, but also just a lot of odds and ends sort of stuff. Stuff like a bracket/adapter to hold a small generic/cheap water block against an old CPU instead of its much larger solid heat sink, little storage containers that are just the right size for the thing they store, maybe some marble track, that sort of thing. I know I will come up with a LOT of things to do with it as I use it more and more, which is why I want to start out with something that has a little more capability than a single extruder model. (Ive used some Creator Pro's, a makerbot replicator+, and a few Stratasys U-prints before through my university, so I have some experience with these already)

>>tldr: have I missed any good alternatives to the Qidi X-pro/FlashForge Creator Pro/Max?
>>
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>>2135569
>FlashForge Creator Pro
Absolutely the fuck not. Every single one of those I've had the misfortune to work with has failed (sometimes spectacularly) within a year. I will not touch one of those ever again.
>>
>>2135569
Buy Prusa
>>
>>2135585
>$500 or less
>buy this small $800 fdm printer bro
Idk man, seems kinda overpriced to me and also out of the guy's budget
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>>2135585
>$500 or less
>large build volume
>multiple extrusion
Look I have both the MK3S and the mini (and unfortunately have to mention I'm not That Faggot) but come on.
>>
>>2135569
Lucky for you it's really easy to add dual extrusion to any printer. You just need a dual extrusion hotend, a second stepper motor, a bowden tube and of course a motherboard with a second extruder port. You could do what you want on a lot of printers but I'm not sure about doing it on any stock.
>>
What's this weird seam? Temperature too low?
>>
>>2135644
looks like a seam.
Visualize gcode in your slicer, and see if that's what it is.
>>
>>2135579
This. Just don't do that to yourself.
>>
>>2135507
unless you anneal any large cross section you've got will have so much stress it can't wait to tear itself apart.
>>
>>2135526
Congrat.
>>
>>2135644
Z seam. It's where the printer moves up to the next layer.
Cura has settings that hide the seam in corners or completely randomizes the layer change spot so you don't see the seam.
>>
can you actually make decent money selling your models?
>>
Bro what the actual fuck.

Ender 3, stock aside from aluminum extruder and glass bed. Paramount 3d filament, 205/75. Flow and e steps calibrated fine.

Nothing changed, just started doing this. What the fuck.
>>
>>2135741
This is the bottom, for reference.
>>
>>2135741
clog
>>
>>2135741
looks pretty normal for a bridge flow set to 0.9 . It probably would have come out semi okay as long as you have more than 2 top layers. Either way change bridge flow and or speed settings, maybe more infill overlap to really seal the deal. Also consider using a different type of infill for this part, you do have some bridges that terminate over air aka they are unprintable.
>>
>>2135741
That's normal for the first top layer on top of infill. If it doesn't clear up after another 2-3 layers that's when you have a problem.
>>
>>2135744
Checked that already too desu.

>>2135745
>>2135747
It does it across the whole print, and I’ve tried a few different infill types too
>>
>>2134496
Hey all, new to this board, recently got a Creality Ender 6, can't for the life of me get it to print. It keeps coming up with an error saying its clogged up but it doesn't seem to be, any other ender 6 anons got this issue/got a ender 6 working?
>>
Can i go from a drawing to a part in solidworks or does it only glow in one direction?
Im trying to model all the parts for an m79 grenade launcher using the technical data package but a lot of the drawings are hard to read and some of the stuff ive got no idea how to model.
>>
>>2135756
kys
>>
>>2135831
Nope, it's generally one-way unless there's some feature I haven't heard of.
>hard to read
>no idea how to model
Post it here, maybe some anons can help out
>>
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Uuuh, YouTube videos promised this model would show me drastic differences...
205?
>>
Hi
>>
>>2135906
PLA?
Higher is usually better for layer adhesion, I use 215 for my PLA and it comes out strong as fuck.
>>
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>>2134496
I'm struggling so hard to design something in fusion that is efficient and prints without using a bunch of supports that fuck with my accuracy.

Redpill me on screw holes and curved surfaces bros.
>>
>>2135569
>Im looking to print a suit of Master Chief armor (I cant spell Mijolnir) from halo
You're basically already there friend, just drop the first i. Mjolnir.
>>
Been looking into getting into SLA for small, high-detail miniatures. I've been researching and so far it seems like there isn't a lot to the individual models beyond resolution of the screen and the z-rails, and what makes or breaks individual printers is build quality and annoyances. To those anons who have resin printers, what are the biggest annoyances when dealing with them, particularly when it comes to build quality? Especially in the sub-$600 bracket.
>>
>>2135509
You've missed the point.
People are spending way more to get marginal improvements in their parts. Better design of the part from the very beginning would provide greater improvements to strength and printability of a part than using fancier materials.
>>
>>2135906
Just to confirm, you ran the script after generating the model, right?
>>
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>>2135748
can you post better pics then? Like one with the actual surface finish of your print? And what are your slicer settings? How many top layers are you setting it to lay down.

>and I’ve tried a few different infill types too
thats nice and all but make sure you're actually paying attention in the slicer. Trying different infill patterns willy nilly doesn't mean anything if none of them actually work for what you're doing.

picrel is a decent example, its a part im printing currently. The bridges on this corner are probably going to curl up and thats with 30% infill. Now, for what im doing its really not going to matter, but im also laying down four top layers. So even if small segments of the bridge do curl, they still get laid down eventually. However if I was trying only 3 or 2 top layers, the curling would then be a problem
>>
>>2135906
>perfect bridges at 240 with the rest of the part sagging a lot
how? refrigerated air cooling?
>>
>>2136117
>Better design of the part from the very beginning would provide greater improvements to strength and printability of a part than using fancier materials.
That is a big assumption made by you. There are a lot of parts that simply cant be designed to mitigate all of the shortcomings of FDM. Yes for most of the retards on here ABS and PETG is all they'd ever need assuming their printers can even do it, maybe raw nylon if they need to make a bearing or something.

But imo you're being a faggot for not appreciating how good fiber filled filaments are. And god damn if nylon wasn't so finicky yeah I'd be printing everything out of it, especially if it had carbon fiber in it. And its fun to play with and try out, part of the fun with FDM is how you can just switch materials out willy nilly.
>>
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Another part snapped guys, wtf
A simple din rail clip with a microphone hot shoe meant for mounting a mic in a vehicle. It had gotten loose on the rail so I tried bending the clip a bit and it just immediately cracked
Inspecting it, like the walls of the perimeter were not even stuck together, I could just easily peel each perimeter layer off with fingernail. What Der fuck?
Trying different print settings, kinda wish I grabbed a picture of the broken part though, but here's a whatever pic so you read my post
>>
>>2136158
what filament did you use to print it anon? can you remember your temp settings you used?
>>
>>2136140
Fair enough I guess. I guess I was just projecting some of the shit I've seen from colleagues that have gotten into it and go for fancy filaments but don't do anything with regard to properly printing it, often resulting in parts weaker than I can get with ABS in an enclosure. I myself have two rolls of fiber filled material, cf nylon and pc-cf. I told myself I'd be rebuilding my hypercube with the parts in those materials, but abs proved plenty strong. I've yet to come across and application of my own where I both need the qualities of the material and am willing to trust a printed part.
>fucking around
I only have some gimicky desk ornaments from our product line at work printed in those materials. Couldn't stand them just sitting around doing nothing and I wanted to fuck with them. Cool stuff. I also have a 100G roll of ultem that I've only dared print a 2mm tall keychain ring.
>>2136158
>like the walls of the perimeter were not even stuck together
You can do a few things. Most easy is to increase your extrusion multiplier. 1.02 may do the trick. A different one is calibrating your extrusion width, although that would affect mostly top and bottom. Most slicers have a setting for overlap of both the infil and the overlap on perimeters. You can look into that, but often default works just fine.
>>
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Brazed a needle on a nozzle.
Tips on what will happend?
>>
>>2136180
it might clog since its going to be far away from the heating element so it will be cooler. you might be able to mitigate that by running a higher temperature
>>
>>2136158
you might need more "squish" maybe but i think there is a setting you could use to help look for "perimeter overlap" in your slicer
>>
>>2136180
heat it up with a blowtorch and then drop it in cold water, then repeat but put a needle through it
>>
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>>2136180
>>2136187
>>2136189
Strings and over extrudes like a mofo, the filament is not dry either but it works.

Tomorrow ill try making a longer one. Originally te needle was 10mm long which i found to be impossible so i cut it down to around 3mm.
>>
>>2136166
petg, 240 nozzle
>>2136168
>increase your extrusion multiplier
the stepper already skips a ton even after calibrating it so I've just given up there.
I'll look for extrusion width but its default pursaslicer so id assume its proper.
>>
>>2136201
Part just printed, this one is even worse wtf.
I'm going to shrink the extrusion width by 0.1 from the default value of 0.4
Someting wong, it's made other prints fine just this part and it seems maybe just along the Y axis
Layer height is 0.16, lots of squish so the real width should in theory be like 0.6
>>
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>>2136215
Pic
>>
>>2136201
>the stepper already skips a ton even after calibrating it so I've just given up there.
hmm, are you trying to print crazy fast or with a 0.8 nozzle or something? under-extrusion is gonna kill everything you make unless you get it under control desu
>petg, 240 nozzle
Have you done any temp towers? Filaments aren't always consistent and 250-260 could be more inline for that specific petg. (assuming your main problem isn't just under-extrusion)
>>
>>2136222
ender3 would explode much past 250c nozzle, I've printed 120 hour prints and they came out just fine so I have no idea why its just a problem here.
the extruder clicking I think would be over-extrusion, no? 0.4 nozzle and 80mm/s on perimeters. iirc maybe I ran it slower on past jobs though so hmm I'll knock it down to 60 as well

i dont have enough outlets lmao so once laptop charges up I'll try printing again
>>
>>2136226
>the extruder clicking I think would be over-extrusion, no?
nope lol, think about how everything works a little more slowly anon. That extruder spinning is what makes the filament come out. So any clicking or skipping is the sound of filament not being pushed in when it should have.

Your extruder is probably shredding the filament and the clicking you hear is the sound of a chunk being ground off. It could be as simple as not enough tension on it, but maybe your stock extruder is just really shitty. 80mm/s really isn't that fast especially on small parts, but you should be able to look at the extruder while its printing and see if its shredding filament or getting stuck or whatever.

Also don't worry about fucking with extrusion width and layer height and all of that. .16 is a pretty reasonable height and the default width is good. Going as thin as .1 might solve your under-extrusion at speed. Or shit just dropping down to 60mm/s might also fix everything too.

But 4 real you wanna get to the bottom of the clicking, once you know what is truly going wrong with the machine only then can you properly fix it.
>>
>>2136197
interdasting what diameter is the nozzle now?
>>
>>2136232
no I have confirmed the clicking is the stepper hopping over it's magnetic hold on it's position and rocking back to the previous step, it is definitely not marring the filament
it just tries to push it too hard through the nozzle i think, idk why, maybe temp too low, or hotend is just fuck.
it occurs about one a second sometimes and usually calms down after a while but can come back. usually when overlapping heavily.
Its printing another with much less perimeter spacing and slowed to 60, definitely clicks the most on solid infill
>>
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>>2136235
Was a .8 mm OD needle im assuming the ID is .5 mm or so.
>>
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>>2136197
>>2136180
>>
I’m just starting with 3d modeling and looking to learn fusion360. I think it’d be cool to set up a vm hosting an instance of fusion360, and have users pass parameters to it with a simple interface and get .stl files. For example, if a normie wants a name tag they could input their name in the interface and the api would pass this to fusion as parameters then generate a stl file for them with their name (and modify the size of the name tag to handle their character count). Does this sound possible? Has anyone done something like this? I think if it’s offered to users for free fusion wouldn’t make me upgrade to a paid tier right? Is fusion pretty demanding or could I get away with doing this on a cheap vm?
>>
>>2136251
Honestly this sounds like something way more suited for OpenSCAD. I don't think Fusion can get that hands-off, but good luck and let us know if it works.
>>
>>2136250
for teh lolz
>>
>>2136217
That looks alrig...oh god.
Try increasing your temperature then.
How is your extruder failing? Is it shaving bits of filament and sticking to the gear, or is it simply missing steps? If it's missing steps and not shaving the filament, you might consider checking your voltage reference for that stepper. Otherwise your only solution is a dual drive extruder if raising the temp doesn't do it.
>>
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>>2136250
because why the fuck not. This was a topic I was asking about a few threads ago, no one could give an answer then. I still have no clue why or what for, but no harm in fucking around. >>2130051
Some references I found claim that it leads to higher quality prints, but I just can't see the difference. Also, it was from (hackaday) where the cake being a lie is still a funny joke.
>>
>>2136251
You can do it with fusion, but I don't think there would be any less hacky way of doing it without giving the normie access to the parameters in the fusion instance. Your best bet would really be Openscad. It could even pull the parameters from a file that you can generate with a web interface.
>>
>>2136256
>Otherwise your only solution is a dual drive extruder
lol if its a bad stepper or a bad driver he can just replace the individual components for much cheaper
>>
>>2136289
I meant out of the two scenarios provided. I could've been a bit more clear.
Effectively if raising the temperature and the filament is still being shaved, then dual drive.
>>
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>>2136180
>>2136187
>>2136197
>>2136235
>>2136263
Came out surprisingly well. I think it would be possible to extend the needle from 3 mm to 5-6 mm. A little more if i up the temps and slower the print.

No stringing, but there are whisks of filament at some places. Also bits of filament accumulating on the side of the needle are deposited on top layers that i can brush off with my finger. Passing over perimeters are a little more violent since theres not a large heat mass to melt any obstacles.
>>
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Now the infill feels weaker, I'm bored of making parts, the walls feel good though and the actual flex part feels flexible and not like it's going to breaked so it will work
>>
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>>2136297
Now use it for some non-planar printing
>>
>>2136302
someday cura will support non-planar slicing and it will be glorious
>>
I leveled my bed and then ran a gcode I sliced from a stl I designed myself. For the first time I am using raft and supports.
Well, for some reason the printer jammed the nozzle into the bed, retracted the filament and did some engraving on the bed.
I tried twice with the same file, happened twice. Why is it doing this? How can I find out what is causing the extruder to move in -z?
>>
>>2136251
Ah looks like someone solved this with openscad- thanks for the recommendations. Google: “mathgrrl design tour openscad”. Apparently thingiverse already has this tool called “customizer” that accepts user inputs then generates custom STL files in openscad. Super cool!
So far my design experience is limited to tinkercad but I want to invest time/effort to learn a more powerful tool. I think most people use fusion 360 for mechanical stuff and blender for organic? It seems like few use openscad so that makes me worried the documentation/help with it is more limited?
>>
>>2136302
Thats the idea
>>
>>2136311
>thingiverse already has this tool called “customizer” that accepts user inputs then generates custom STL files
That's the idea, but the Customizer has been broken for years at this point. There's no guarantee you'll get a part out of it, I've still got some models that are "in queue".

>fusion 360 for mechanical stuff and blender for organic
Pretty much.
>>
>>2136311
OpenSCAD is pretty straight forward and like a programming language.

https://openscad.org/cheatsheet/
>>
>OpenSCAD
Why shouldnt i just use blender with python scripting at this point?
>>
>>2136324
It's a lot simpler
>>
>>2136326
Not sure about that but its certainly slower
>>
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Trying to print components for model rocketry, have got some carbon fibre-nylon for it, but do you guys think PLA would be ok for fins and nose cone? would need to withstand up to Mach 1.5. If not, what other materials do you think it would be good to print?
>>
>>2136307
>How can I find out what is causing the extruder to move in -z?
Open up the gcode file in your text editor of choice and start parsing through. Somewhere really close right at the beginning there will be some code telling the extruder to go too far down. Compare it with known good gcode to see what the incorrect behavior is. Also use google plentifully
>>
>>2135756
Update on this seems to be a problem with the filament sensor, keeps clicking off and causing a pause when there is no reason for one; anyone else had this?
>>
>>2136331
I know little about rocketry or aerodynamics but if there are any heating effects at mach 1.5 then PLA won't cut it, it will get soft at around 60C. In fact, it can soften up just by sitting in the sun if it's really hot outside.
ABS is a better choice here because it's more heat resistant (survives over 100C) and it has a lower density than PLA so resulting parts will be lighter.
>>
>>2136331
>would need to withstand up to Mach 1.5
That's not what it needs to withstand from a technical perspective. It needs to withstand the temperature and the forces from the acceleration
>>
>>2136333
There is nothing in the code with -z. I dont get it desu. I leveled the bed, even went over the spot where it scratched and checked with paper that it shouldn't make contact


Also r8 bottle opener. Will probably print it standing up at an angle so the force is not applied parallel to layer lines.
>>
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>>2135644
Similar seam in my part, never thought about it. The rest came out fine.
>>
>>2136344
Think ABS will cut it? strength wise? Like I say I have the nylon and PETG too so can do a fair range

>>2136360
Kys
>>
Anyone here got experience with the larger Ender series, 5, 5 pro, 5 plus or 6? How do they compare to the 3, 3 pro and V2 from a day to day use point of view?
>>
>>2136378
Depends on the orientation of the forces and the orientation in which you print the parts.
If your forces act to compress the layers together then the part will be strong as fuck. If the forces are oriented in the same plane as the layers then it will be okay but ABS and PETG are quite flexible so thinner pieces might bend and eventually break off due to aerodynamic stresses. If the forces work to pull or shear the layers apart then you are having a bad day and you will not be flying very far. Even high tech filaments won't save your ass from this one.
ABS would be fine for the nose cone, for the fins you will probably need Nylon/CF. PETG would also work for the nosecone but out of the common printing filaments it's the most dense. Mind the weight.
>>
>>2136331
>Mach 1.5
Anon you're building a wildly serious rocket, how big is this thing? At that speed you should be looking into fibre glass leading edges for extreme lightweight and strength. If you must use 3D printing, a foamed PLA nosecone should withstand the temperatures at that speed a couple of times while being very light, but just barely. I think peek heating at that speed would be somewhere around 50 to 70C, but only for a few seconds. For fins, you'll need something stronger than any 3d printed part if they're spin stabilizing. If they're not experiencing high lifting loads like that, ABS/Nylon should work fine.

Best of luck anon, I'm joining my school's rocketry and satellite clubs soon, and I hope to be doing cool shit like that too!
>>
>>2136298
You have issues with your extrusion. What filament and what temperature? What speed are you printing infill at?
>>
>>2136421
Which country you in? I run a Rocketry Society here, we currently have a fair number of rockets, our largest are two K660s which are going to be staged, expecting Mach 2 at least and 10km altitude. 3D printed parts do work on the smaller stuff (<G-H) but I recently got a printer for the society and don't have experience printing shit myself, hence the questions
>>
>>2135743
Sexy
>>
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>2021
>not using vr + 3d sculpting
>>
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>>2136496
>>
>>2136334
see >>2135842
>>
>>2136439
read the thread, hes got a problem with his extruder stepper motor
>>
>>2136365
>so the force is not applied parallel to layer lines
how did that work out for you
>>
>>2136498
>a huge grung priest appears
>>
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>>2136559
I will try again in half an hour. It's a 4h print and it was too late yesterday after I was plagued with bed scratching issues. >>2136307

Basically, I want to avoid (1) and go into situation (2) if possible
>>
>>2136706
Wtf does that crude bullshit even mean? Just rotate your model if you want it to print differently, shit.
>>
>>2136496
will this let me pick a monster from the graveyard?
>>
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>>2136732
only this one
>>
>>2136329
OpenScad's pretty simple once you get the hang of it.
I actually came from blender+python.
Wrote a complex parametric program for a threading "tap".
Seems like childs play now, using openScad
>>
>>2136714
take your meds.
I wasn't asking a question.
>>
>>2136734
SLA?
>>
Hello. Did covid changed prices on 3d printer for the worse?
Is it safe to buy used ones, or better to get brand new? Do i need a lot of space?
>>
>>2136496
>vr + 3d sculpting
Explain further
>>
>>2135663
that's weird, never had any issues thus far
>>
>>2136762
You don't need a whole lot of space, but depending on the printer you might want it to be far from you.
I wouldn't buy a used printer unless it's like 15~25% the value of a new one, and from a common manufacturer. There is just far too much potential for misuse and abuse from the user, along with many having quality control issues.
I wouldn't get one as a first printer.
>>
>>2136820
All it does is make your part weaker in layer adhesion than it should've been. While more relevant in one axis than the others, it still affects it.
It isn't a trivial amount, but frankly not a margin that should be relied on for critical parts.
>>
>>2136764
google adobe medium
>>
>>2136158
You have cheap shit filament
>>
>>2136755
You don't need to be embarrassed because you have the MSPaint skills of a child, it's OK bb.
>>
Thinking about getting an Elegoo Mars Pro 2 for miniatures printing. Anyone have any examples of things printed on them?
>>
>>2136756
>>2136764
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/nuouqo/3d_printing_vr_sculpting_is_one_of_the_most/
>>
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Gave the old girl a new bed.
After over two and a half years of faithful service I figured she deserves it :)
Lets see how she likes it!
>>
>>2137036
Replacing that sheet was simultaneously both a pain and easier than I expected. The hardest part was getting my hands on limonene. Kind of cathartic scraping off all the old adhesive, but still had to be wary of dinging the traces.
>>
So, are there any torrent sites or anything where I can grab paid versions of prints?
>>
>>2137071
There's a super secret Telegram group where some models get shared. Sometimes someone here will share if they already purchased the model. Kind of depends on what you are looking for. I'm not sure what the link for the Telegram group is either, sorry anon.
>>
>>2137055
I just used isopropyl alcohol, it was a huge pain in the ass. That glue sure is sticky.
>>
>>2136302
will non planer ever stop being a novelty?
>>
>>2137080
>IPA
well, there's your problem. IPA doesn't do much against it, limonene renders it mostly inert and non-sticky.
>>
Bros, I can't in good conscience keep using cubic infill. It's the jews.
>>
>>2137099
No, just use a resin based printer.
>>
>>2137103
I see, IPA seems to get absorbed by it and make it really soft and not as sticky so it kinda worked. Guess I'll get some limonene next time.
>>
>>2136334
>>2135756
Further update, have removed the entire sensor, seems to be printing mostly fine now.
>>2136502
>>2135842
Thanks for your assistance anons
>>
>>2134496
wtc new silicone heat sock for Creality Ender 3. Mine is busted and the one I bought on Amazon leaves too much of the nozzle exposed so every time I print filament gets stuck on the side and my print fails.
>>
>>2137296
The sock is only for insulation. It won't stop anything from getting caught on the hotend, in fact I would say it increases that risk
>>
>>2137320
My old sock covered everything but the tip and I didn’t start having this issue until I replaced it. Pic somewhat related. Every time I try to print the filament starts sticking onto the exposed side instead of the bed.
>>
>>2137320
>>2137321
Not my pic but this is what my nozzle used to look like
>>
>>2137296
>>2137321
>>2137322
Preferably I’m looking for this without having to translate the website and wait for it to ship from Spain or the Philippines (if they don’t just steal my card info).
>>
>>2137296
>>2137321
>>2137322
>>2137328
Also it’s a brand new nozzle so it shouldn’t be clogged in any way
>>
>>2137339
Are you in the US or what? These are on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Silicone-Sticker/dp/B07HP2SWJX
I found them by searching "creality hotend sock".
>>
>>2137343
Those are the ones giving me the issue. I need something like >>2137328
>>
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>>2137349
Weird because those are the stock socks, not sure where you can get the ones you had before. One thing you could do would be to upgrade to a V6 hotend, then you can use one of E3D's "pro" socks. But I think something else is wrong with your hotend because the filament shouldn't curl when it comes out of the nozzle, maybe slightly but not enough to reach up and touch the nozzle. That is indicative of a clogged nozzle, even if you did just change it. Maybe your print temp is too low and that is causing it to cool too quickly or maybe your fan is totally high which also might make it curl.
Maybe try these ones
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Original-Printer-Silicone-Accessories/dp/B08VF15B89/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=Creality+hotend+sock&qid=1623385382&sr=8-19
>>
>>2137409
Thank you so much for the help. I’ll definitely check my settings and see if that changes anything and if not at the very least I’ll be able to go back to the original sock I had.
>>
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>>2137427
Glad I could help. For reference, this is what the "pro" sock looks like. It will only work on a V6 but it's a worthwhile upgrade. I guess this sort of sock is really good for PETG. I haven't printed with that stuff yet so I can't comment on that, but it will at least keep the heater block filament free.
>>
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Should I be concerned about this?
>>
>>2137462
Very yes. Change those out immediately, they're either going to melt completely or start a fire very soon.
>>
>>2137467
Do you know what the connector part is called? I'm having trouble finding it.
>>
>>2137462
I don't understand how some people pull this off. I regularly print ABS so I torture the fuck out of my heated bed wiring and mosfet but it still doesn't do that.
>>
>>2137469
Dunno man, I'm an ABSfag myself so that is probably what did it.
>>
>>2135387
It's simple. My 3d printed coat hangers and fuel filters are subjected to high temperatures, and operate under harsh conditions. They need to be able to survive boat accidents.
>>
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>>2137468
oh it's literally just screw terminals
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>>2137468
Unfortunately I only know they're called "Phoenix Connectors", after a specific company that produces them, but they also make other things (in the same way that Kleenex isn't just tissues and Xerox isn't just copiers). You'll probably be able to find them by googling around, but at least make sure you don't get some cheapshit ones that melt easy.
>>
>>2137473
Son of a fuck! are they really? Goddamn it.
>>
>>2137474
Thanks anon
>>
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>>2137476
I was expecting something more technical
>>
How durable is the plastic now? Years ago it was meh. I want to get my buddy a model to hang from the hitch of his truck as a joke but I worry about the little stones hitting it going down the road and it being in the weather like freezing snow and 100° summers. Found some premade online but they either say plastic or pla (which means plastic?) but nothing about the exact type of plastic so I can’t look up the tech sheet for it. Do I make my own model and send it to a site to get made out of a metal or dense plastic?
>>
>>2136126
Yeah, set the temperature to 240 and then added the Script that decressed it in 5°C stets every 5mm
>>2136133
Beginners luck? It's Sunlu PLA+ from amazon on a Stock Ender 3v2
>>
>>2137495
It's all in what you print with and how much plastic you put into it.
ASA with a coat of paint on top is good enough for outdoors use.
>>
Literal first ever build, how'd I do lads?
>>
>>2134883

Cmyk mixing is a nightmare, toolchangers are the future
>>
>>2135513

Run them through windows 3d Builder for a quick and dirty repair job. 3d models aren't always airtight or even printable but you wont know with your particular model until you try.
>>
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starting to get reliable performance out of it
>>
>>2137579
Also, slicing/build orientation.
FDM printing is anisotropic.
>>
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Midwit here. I'm trying to wire an inductive probe to my SKR Mini E3 V2.0 but it's not working. The probe is a DC 5V NPN NO LJ8A3-2-Z/Ax-5V. It seems like this probe it needs an external pullup resistor but I'm not sure what that exactly means. It's either that or it needs some type of diode wired to it to prevent the 5V signal from going to the signal pin.
I've tested the probe with a multimeter testing the resistance and it does indeed do something when I put the probe near metal. What exactly, I'm not sure...
Anyways, have any of you guys successfully used an inductive probe on this board before? It would be nice not to have to buy anything but I don't really care if I have to it would just be easier if I didn't.
>>
>>2137721
Wait the probe is NO. Its NC I think.
>>
>>2137680
Formbot kit i assume?
>>
>>2137495
>plastic or pla (which means plastic?)
PLA is a type of plastic, Polylactic Acid, and one of the most common types of printing plastics. If you live in a hot climate (Arizona, Texas, Australia) or one with lots of UV exposure (...Arizona, Texas, Australia) I would recommend you try a different one like ABS.

>Do I make my own model and send it to a site to get made out of a metal or dense plastic?
You can, but metal will cost you an arm and a leg.
>>
>>2137802
Yeah with a few changes. ACM panels from printedsolid, stuck a flat PEI sheet on the other side of the steel sheet since I don't like textured, different color coded or ribbon wires for gantry and mains wiring, replaced the SSR with an omron one. Works pretty well after tuning.

Klipper is fucking incredible compared to marlin
>>
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What considerations should I take when designing Snap-in pins to be printed in a Resin printer?
I took a 3D model for coomer animations and set it up to be kind of ball-joint doll. Since I am aware that resin is brittle I used hinges and pins instead of ball-sockets, but now I am worried if snap-in pins are even possible.
First I forgot that you must flatten two sides of the pin; I will sand-down what is already being printed and edit the rest of the files. But I am worried if pieces like pic related are going to just break once I try to fit them inside. I left a gap of around .1mm between pieces and the pins themselves are between 4 and 2mm in diameter.
>>
>>2137922
A fillet at the bottom of the pin slot would add strength where they're most likely to break
>>
>>2137922
>What considerations should I take when designing Snap-in pins to be printed in a Resin printer?
Printing spares.
>>
>>2137922
Not all resin is brittle. Siraya has some excellent tough and flexible resins which are not much more expensive than regular resin, and since resin is liquid you can even mix and match different types to get the material properties you want.
>>
>>2137812
my favorite part about klipper is the small group of know-it-all elites devs
>>
>>2137930
>>2137974
Thanks

>>2137971
And noted, but will do that for the next version, the current design has the pins built-in the pieces, probably not the best design choice if I want pieces to be swappable
>>
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Hey Faggots,
My name is Josef and I hate every single one of you. All of you are fat, retarded, poorfags who spend every second of their day printing stupid ass Ender mods. You are everything bad in this makerspace. Honestly, have you ever printed below 0.20mm layer height? I mean, I guess it's fun printing THICC lines to hide your print flaws, but you all take it to a whole new level. This is even worse than remixing your own thing on Thingiverse.
Don't be a stranger. Just hit me with your best shot. I'm pretty much perfect and so are my printers. I am CEO of my own company, and get perfect layers, and have a banging hot FDM machine (She just finished a print; Shit was SO cash). You are all faggots who should just kill themselves. Thanks for listening.
Pic Related: It's me and my print farm
>>
>>2138260
Nice tattoo you have
>>
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Please help me make this motion study, ive got no idea what im doing. Ive got axis's in both of those holes. Right most will be latch axis, left most barrel axis. I've broken it down into hopefully the right steps, i just dont know how to implement them.
1. latch rotates about its axis 15 clockwise
2. barrel asselmbly rotates about its axis 45 counter clockwise
3.latch rotates about its axis 15 counter clockwise, returning to starting position
4. barrel rotates about its axis 45 clockwise returning to starting position.
During step 4 i would like the beveled edges on the latch and barrel to interact with each other forcing the latch to get pushed aside and then spring back into position once it has the clearance. I do not know how to get any of this to animate. I currently have the blocks mated to the barrel and welds i think on them. the latch has mates to the latch block on the parellel faces that are touching.
>>
>>2138324
Remind me which part of your totally not weapon related question is related to 3D-printing?
If I were you, I'd Google "Solidworks motion study restrict part movement around axis"
>>
>>2138344
I am illiterate and thought this was a cad thread.
Thanks though.
>>
>>2138345
No problem. I know a little bit of CAD from school but different software, and I would have no idea how to animate motion in it. Most I can do is attach parts to points and restrict their freedom of movement so that I can "move" them by hand since for us, the ultimate goal is always a technical drawing.
>>
I've seen animations of entire engines running in solid works. I know the program can handle it but I've got no clue how. A lot of tutorials are garbage and hardly anyone does things the same way.
Im at the point where im thinking about just making a wooden model or 3d printing all the parts and figuring things out as i go. I wanted to get it all drawn up to see if anything wont play nice but its such a pain in the ass to do things i feel should be simple and straightforward
>>
>>2134496
Kek, the valve for the servo powered vr striker made it in the collage.
>>
>>2138357
what does it do?
>>
Sorry for the literal retard question, but I impulsively bought a Anycubic Photon Mono SE because someone on /tg/ recommended it. I do not know anything about 3d printing. I see that it's offered in a bundle with a "Wash and Cure Machine". What is that? Do I need that or is it optional?
>>
>>2138921
So when you print with resin, have the pri ting is complete your model is still covered with liquid resin. You have to wash that off. After you have washed the print, you have to cure it with UV light. The Wash and Cure Machine simplifies this process, I'd get it if I was you.
>>
>>2138921

You don't need it but it's a convenient way to wash and cure your resin that will leave minimal mess.

But it's not necessary, no. I have one and I like it.
>>
>>2138988
>>2138997
Thanks guys. I'm pretty lazy and I love convenience so I'll probably get it. Did a bit of reading, apparently there's fumes too? Do you set up the printer under a fume hood or shop vac or something?
>>
>>2139020
I think that model has a built in air filter but it's probably not enough. From what I understand, you want to vent the air from it to the outside. I think there is a mod for the enclosure you can either buy or make. But when you are working with it, you probably want to be wearing gloves and a filtering mask, plus some eye protection. Don't print in a room where you hang out all the time.
>>
>>2138260
Why do you lie on the internet? What do you get out of it?
>>
>>2139058
It's copypasta you dip. Reworking it in new contexts is an art.
>>
>>2139072
Please don't post that bullshit here. I heard >>>/b/ was missing it's retard. Go on they miss you dearly.
>>
>>2139084
pull the stick out of ur ass newfag
>>
>>2137721
https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/erjygd/trianglelabs_abl_inductive_sensor_and_skr_mini_e3/
>>
>>2139114
Thanks anon...
Currently Im using Klipper and I have to probe worked to my board. After doing some testing, it seems that the signal that gets output when my probe is triggered is both too low to be a triggered high signal and too high to be a triggered low signal. I think I have to use some resistors to raise or lower the signal (I'm not sure how a resistor would raise the voltage, that doesn't make any sense to me).
I've kind of been following this guide here https://mertarauh.com/2017/01/18/dont-trust-the-internet-and-how-to-add-an-inductive-proximity-sensor-to-your-3d-printer-the-proper-and-easiest-way/ . I bought some resistor and sides yesterday so I just have to figure out which ones to use I guess. First I'll try the diode because it seems like it is the easiest but I don't actually know if it will work. Can't hurt to try., I guess. Just need to make sure the diode is orientated correctly.
>>
>>2139206
>worked
It's wired. I guess technically it does work too just not in a way that the board can see.
>>
>>2139026
>mod for the enclosure you can either buy or make
Got a link? I've been thinking about how I'll construct mine, but all I get when I google around is bad DIY stuff with terrible pictures. It's a lot easier to copy what someone else is doing if you can actually see it.
>>
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anyone else use solvespace? fusion 360 is to clunky to use on my laptop so I opted for what I thought was the lightest and easiest software. there are a few good tutorials but I never see anyone talk about it here.
>>
>>2139026
Thanks anon. One last question, I want to print my own sculpts, have some novice Blender experience. Does modelling for 3D require specific techniques, topology, etc? Or can I just toss in an .obj file and let it handle everything?
>>
>>2139244
Id print this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2877754
So after you attach it to the back of your printer, you need to run some 4" tube to the outside. Either to a hole in the Wal or to a window. You will also need a fan to move the air. Depending on your funds, you can either buy a nice inline fan like they use in grow rooms or you can use a PC fan. I'm betting the inline fan would work better than the PC fan.
>>
>>2139244
>>2139451
For the tubing you can use that stuff that goes on the back of a clothing dryer. Here's a version that uses a PC fan
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4684265
>>
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>>2139244
>>2139453
This is for the Mono S but the idea is the same. Note the wire coming from the tube, that's the inline fan. No plans for this one, just a pic from Google Images from Leddit.
>>
>>2139244
This guy uses a fan that goes at the end of the tube. In the pics, you can see it runs to a window and he used some insulation board to keep the wind from coming back in.
https://www.raverobot.com/how-to-vent-the-anycubic-photon-3d-printer/
But yeah, that's the gist of it. Hope that helps!
>>
>>2139413
I really only have experience with FDM printing. I've only printed a few of my own models. From what I can tell, the model needs to have no holes (mesh should have no holes) but other than that, I'm not sure that there are any other requirements.
With FDM printing, you have to worry about overhangs and supports. But with resin printing, everything gets supports regardless so I'm not sure that you have to worry about overhangs as much. Not many people here print in red sin it seems but there are a few. But among those, there are even fewer still who make their own models to print. I think the majority of us who do our own modeling do it for technical parts, so a lot of us use things like OpenSCAD, FreeCAD, Fusion 360, etc..
>>
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>>2139058

It's at least 11 year old variant of a copypasta...
>>
>>2135640
>Lucky for you it's really easy to add dual extrusion to any printer.
This seems like one of those things I would think up, and then the rest of the world desperately tries to convince me its a terrible idea and it will never work, then I do it anyway, it totally fails leading to wasted time and probably money on parts and also potentially damages hardware leaving me worse off than I started and also likely causing significant physical injury to myself. (Yes, all of these have happened before) I've developed a halfway decent instinct over time on identifying these sorts of ideas, as the alternative would be bankruptcy, death, humiliation, or all three.

That being said, this seems like a really interesting idea. Could you elaborate with your experience or point me to somewhere I can find a guide? I want to believe its really that easy, but I feel like there is some hidden drawback to this.

Also, what about getting one of those devices that pulls in filament from multiple different spools, then cuts them to the appropriate length before feeding it to a single extruder? I know for a fact that this works with multi color and same material, but what about with different materials? It seems to me that you would just have to purge any leftover filament and ensure that the thing waits for its extruder to change temperature before changing the material, and also making sure it changes its print speed, other settings, etc, if needed. Ive been told that this system can be tuned to where you get minimal material waste and print quality on par or better than a duel head printer, all for the price of one of the boxes (I think its like $150 ish?) and a single head printer.
>>
>>2139492
I don't have any experience with it, b t I have done extensive research.
So basically you need any printer and a motherboard that has multiple Extruder ports (E0, E1, or E1, E2, etc). If you look at motherboard for the Qidi X-Pro, it has X, Y, Z E1 and E2, so it already has two extruder stepper drivers. With those two drivers, you would drive two independant extruders. Something like the basic Ender 3 or Prusa Mk3 only have one extruder port.
What I meant was you can buy pretty much any board and hook it up to any printer. So you could get something like a SKR 1.4 which has X, Y, ZA/B and E0, E1 and connect that to any printer, drive your axis normally and have two extruder ports. There are a lot of boards that you can do this with, the SKR 1.4 is just a common one.
So let's say you have it all hooked up now and the two extruders have two filaments that can run to the hotend. Now you have several options. You can have a 2-in-1-out hotend like the E3D Cyclops where both filaments come out the same nozzle or you could have a 2-in-2-out hotend like the E3D Chimera where each filament has its own nozzle. But, you don't necessarily need a special hotend. You can use something like a filament Y-splitter to achieve the same thing with a single hotend.
So for devices that do all of this there are a few options. There is the Prusa MMU2S that let's you have 5 independant spools. These are all fed to a single hotend. This device works best with a Prusa machine. There are clones that people have made but it's very complicated to get running. If you have a Prusa printer and the MMU2s, it just werks. Another option would be something like the Pallette 2 or e. It pulls in multiple filaments and then melts the ends together. It's really expensive though. Also, there is the 3D Chameleon which is basically independant steppers with a Y splitter. I think it costs less than the MMU2.
>>
>>2139492
You can't really print different materials in the same model, they don't play well together. Like you can't print ABS and PLA in the same model because they require vastly different print settings. I have seen people print things with PLA and TPU though, mostly RC car wheels and tires. There are some experiments out there for multimaterial printing like that. As far as printing a support material goes, that works fine with a setup like the ones above. You don't want your support material bonding to the models anyways.
So wihh different colors, you do need to purge the nozzle. Some people use a purge bucket, some use a purge tower. Depending on the size of the thing you are printing, you might be able to just purge to infill instead. That is the least wasteful option.
https://www.3dchameleon.com - $200
https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-multi-material-2-0/ - $300 (clones are available on Aliexpress for half that)
https://www.mosaicmfg.com/blogs/news/introducing-palette-2 - starts at $600
Building your own with a SKR motherboard, plus drivers, plus stepper motors and all the connecting bits... Maybe less than $200
>>
>>2139537
>You can't really print different materials in the same model, they don't play well together.

I kinda meant like disolvable support structure
>>
>>2139539
there is no such thing
>>
Hey I'm the dumbass who bought an ender 6 for $100. I bought a replacement creality hotend and it's printing beautifully. $20 on Amazon for the hotend. Only thing I don't like about it, it's fans are so loud.
>>
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>>2139543
>there is no such thing
Yes, there is, I've used it before.

pic related was done on a Stratasys Uprint SE with ABS and some proprietary brittle black/green shit thats soluble in a strongly basic solution of heated sodium hydroxide.

Others are made that dissolve in water, or other solvents.

Unless you were just telling me I spelled it wrong, in which case, here, "dissolvable" support structure.
>>
>>2139550
kys
>>
>>2139568
Just ignore the low effort trolls.
Disolvable support material should print fine with any of the above options. Watch this MMU2 video, they print some during the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jc8xzotkdA
>>
>>2139539
Not that guy but if you have dual extrusion or filament changing hardware then you can use PETG as supports instead of expensive soluble stuff. PETG doesn't stick well to anything but itself so the supports come off real easy even when touching the model. You can also do this in reverse and use PLA or something else as supports when printing PETG.
>>
>>2139568
>>2139582
Shit, wrong video. Watch this one
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E1ZxTCApLrs
If you use the MMU2S or clone with Marlin firmware, it works very easily. It's a bitch to get set up with Klipper though.
>>
>>2139072
Why do you log in to the internet and lie?
>>
>>2139580
Why are you mad? What did I do to you?
>>
>>2139543
>there is no such thing
Literally googleable
>>
So the fans are 24v. Why aren't they 12v? I might just put 2 PC fans in series in the bottom but the head sounds like a jet engine...
>>
>>2139640
>why aren't they 12V
Probably because your PSU is 24V
>>
Can any anons help me troubleshoot my BLTouch that fails intermittently?

https://streamable.com/s06jcs

Ender 5 Pro - 4.2.2 32-bit silent board with TMC2208 drivers
Genuine ANTCLABS BLTouch v3.1 with dedicated 5 pin connector
Have tried stock Creality firmware and TH3D Unified 2 firmware

Printer homes X and Y, moves to middle of the bed -> probe deploys, goes from from solid red to faint blue -> Bed rises -> I manually raise the probe, it turns solid red to indicate it senses it is rising -> Probe rises past the normal trigger point, but doesn't seem to trigger and begins flashing red -> Bed doesn't stop rising, eventually will crash into nozzle unless printer is powered off in time. This has poked / melted a few holes in my print surface, which you can see in the video.

This doesn't happen every time I auto home. Happens probably 1 out of every 5 times, if that. Seems to happen more frequently if the nozzle and bed are heating up / hot. I've tried everything I can think of. Even the dumb shit like the zip tie around my probe you see in the video.

Things I've tried:

- Verified wires are correct (see pics below)
https://i.imgur.com/PVMMzlX.png
https://i.imgur.com/tUYXZOj.png

- Pushed 5 pin connector on the board side in firmly, then hot glued in place to prevent it from coming loose.
- Put zip tie around neck of probe to keep wires and connector firmly in place
- Got rid of shitty creality firmware and compiled my own, specifically TH3D unified 2 firmware. Issue persists with it too.
- Screwed the ferrite grub screw in the BLTouch in a bit further. Didn't fix so put it back to the suggested .3mm recession
- Replaced the plastic probe inside with the replacement one that comes in the box

It's so intermittent I'm extremely doubtful it's an issue with incorrect wiring or firmware, but idk for sure.

Anybody else have this issue before? Any help / suggestions at all would be appreciated. Cheers
>>
>>2139460
Alright, that checks out. There are two fans, then? To my knowledge, the vent on the printer itself is an intake, not an fume vent. So you have one running in to the printer itself and then one running out of the enclosure?
>>
>>2139828
When the manual fails
https://5020dafe-17d8-4c4c-bf3b-914a8fdd5140.filesusr.com/ugd/f5a1c8_d40d077cf5c24918bd25b6524f649f11.pdf
Try a youtube video.
https://youtu.be/Jmu5Fh_nPtw
>>
>>2139828
Random thought, check your wire at the connection. I accidentally cut one and had to splice it. They're pretty rock solid anon. I'm almost 99% certain it's a connection issue.
>>
>>2139843
I think you need only one fan for the duct. Either a PC fan in the enclosure to push the air out or an inline fan to pull it out.
>>
>>2139877

- Just did a visual inspection for the whole length of the BL Touch wire, and didn't see any breaks or cuts.

- Pulled all the pins out of their plastic housings on both ends and visually checked all the metal connectors. Looked fine to me.

Checked all 5 wires for continuity when outside the plastic housing and when in. No issues with any of them. Even jostled the cable around a bunch trying to see if the connection would break but it was solid the whole time on each one.

Feeling pretty stumped here. If it was a cabling connection issue I'd expect it to either work or not. Not be intermittent like this. I've tested it with the wire stretched out all sorts of different ways and it still only fails 1/5 times or so. Doesn't seem to be a faulty connection.
>>
>>2139855
Thanks for the reply.

However I've already checked that manual more times than I can count, and it contains no information pertaining to this issue.

That YouTube video is for installation steps, which I've obviously already completed since the BLTouch is working fine 80% of the time. Not to mention the video is outdated, uses a different board and BLTouch version, and has nothing to do with troubleshooting.

I appreciate the "RTFM" style comment, but it's not applicable here.
>>
>>2139617
please just ignore Josef
>>
>>2139952
>>2139954
You aren't supposed to probe with the bed heating and the nozzle heating. Think about how much interference comes from the heaters (look at videos of an oscilloscope for a visual). For a day or so, try only homing and probing with a cold bed and cold nozzle and see how that goes.
>>
>>2139977
>You aren't supposed to probe with the bed heating and the nozzle heating
>what is heat expansion
You definitely are supposed to probe with a *hot* bed, though
>>
>>2139990
I just follow the Klipper documentation and it says to do it cold.
>>
>>2139297
Interesting. I've installed it and will give it a try. Can't seem to change the interface to a white theme though
>>
>>2139828
Flash your own firmware
your
own
firmware

I've said this before and I'll say it as many times as needed. Stop using curated (read cucked) firmware from manufacturers or 3rd parties. Download marlin from github, install Visual Studio Code, load an example config for your machine and go through the options you want to enable or modify.
>>
>>2139828
This might be a shot in the dark, but try inverting the wires that go to the z stop. In my CR10 I had to do that prior to it working.
>>
>>2139297
I use openscad/freecad on my laptop, running a manjaro install. Windows is just a pain in the ass for anything with less than a quad core. I never have to model anything too complex on the laptop, so those to fit the bill fine.
Only downside if keyboard commands are different when going back and for between freecad and f360 on desktop and it angers me.
>>
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>>2139828
Also, the zip tie isn't doing what you think it's doing. The nylon's too rigid and may actually be stressing the connector while not holding the cable in place. Try either placing it further up on the orange band or wrapping the cable around that band with some kapton tape.
>>
>>2139977
>Think about how much interference comes from the heaters
hardly any? you do realize a bl touch is far from the only sensitive electronic on a printer right?
>>
>>2140174
The bltouch is the closest piece of electronics to the hotend heater and since nothing is shielded it makes sense that the interference would fuck with it. Maybe you should go look at at some scope videos too.
>>
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this guy flies in and slaps your lamp's ass, wat do?
>>
New Thread
>>2140213
>>
>>2139297
Thanks doc
>>
>>2140007
Whoever wrote the Klipper documentation seems to not have a good grasp of physics, because your print bed WILL deform when heated, and the values you just measured will no longer be accurate



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