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File: collage.jpg (502 KB, 1800x1800)
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You Got The Touch Edition
Old thread: >>2099781
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Prusa Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.
>>
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>>2103308
Finally got the E6 dialed in after upgrades.
Almost had a fucking stroke as well, who the fuck thought it would be a good idea to store EEPROM on the SD card?
>>
>>2103315
someone who had to work around the fact that some jellybean 32-bit micros don't have on-chip data EEPROM. what would you do in that situation, master enjineer?
>>
>>2103308
>Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Maybe include the Ender 3 v2 on next pasta OP :3
>>
>>2103308
so is the ender 3 pro just shit or is it okay if i got a glass bed for it? Keeping in mind that the v2 i could find on amazon are at least 50 eurobucks more than said 3 pro with glass bed and stuff
>>
>>2103349
Yes I understand every aspect of it.
>>
>>2103346
It is not shit, relax, it has just been superseded. I have one and I'm not going to replace it with a v2 just for the few doodads it has.

In case yours doesn't have a 32 bit controller, I would definitely upgrade that though.
>>
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>>2103320
I can't fucking remember a single printer that does this. And one with a firmware so jank. It saves to EEPROM whenever the fuck it feels like it. The BLTouch port on the breakout board sometimes supplies too little power to run ABL.
The Bowden is twelve fucking feet long even though there's a plenty of fucking space to mount the extruder on the top gantry. It boggles my mind how funky the printer is. Until the last firmware update, the printer wouldn't even save ABL to EEPROM.
>>
>>2103358
>The Bowden is twelve fucking feet long
H-how?
>>
>>2103358
Better yet, there's no way to babystep, the USB port backfeeds voltage, and Creality didn't release the firmware source yet, even though that goes against the license marlin is based on.
>>
>>2103359
They mounted the extruder onto the frame around halfway up the Z axis. You can remount it onto the top frame, shortening the Bowden by at least half. It's ridiculous.
>>
>>2103296
What you really need to do is fix your print quality
>>
>>2103296
Is a GTR not a bit overkill for an Ender?
>>
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>>2103367
Yeah probably but it'll go in a different printer at some point. I also got the M5 board but it isn't hooked up yet. I really got it so I could do dual independant Z and use multiple extruders. I haven't had any problems with it. I'm running Klipper on a Pi 4. Not a bad board, minus the size of it. I did order some more wire so I can extend the PSU wire s and everything, hopefully I find a good spot for it soon.
I rotated the image. I used Cura's fuzzy skin and I printed it vertically.
>>
>>2103389
>used Cura's fuzzy skin and I printed it vertically.
You wanted it to look like shit?
>>
>>2103389
>be me
>fighting with shaking carriages, loose belts, and heatblock mounts that loosen by themselves
>see anon with an otherwise fine print deliberately using fuzzy skin
What can I say except REEEE
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>>2103389
This is my solution for electronics that don't fit and/or I don't know exactly where I want them.
It's a pegboard for printer electronics. You can slot your shit in wherever you want and move it with minimal effort.
>>
>>2103391
Pic related is how the original creator printed it. He didn't say how he did the texture, I thought it was fuzzy skin. Ill probably reprint in a colored filament someday soon.

>>2103409
Did you print the pegboard? I was considering just attaching it to the wall behind the printer but a pegboard would be nicer. But it looks like yours might be under your printer?
>>
what's the most hello world-tier thing i can print to test shit out?
>>
>>2103358
>I can't fucking remember a single printer that does this. And one with a firmware so jank
Creality engineers, channeling Earl "Madman" Muntz, seem to prefer not having a 10 cent 24LC32 on the board. makes a strange kind of sense, especially if they're paying 50 cents for the SD card already
Creality stock firmware is jank, no doubt, and their electronics aren't so hot either. but SDCARD_EEPROM_EMULATION is a mainline Marlin config feature, among others. there is a EEPROM emulation mode that uses internal program flash instead of the SD card, but I repeat cautions about flash endurance. one thing that can be said about aftermarket board upgrades is that they usually include a serial I2C EEPROM already defined in the Marlin pins file

>>2103419
3Dbenchy
>>
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>>2103416
>Did you print the pegboard?
Yes, I designed it to print in 2 halves that go together with dovetail joints so you can print it on the E3.
I can't say it's the best thing ever, it's only the 2nd version and I already located some problems like the peg holes being too big for efficiently slotting in wire clips, but it works much better than the first version.
>>
>>2103416
The texture is from his bed.
>>
>>2103419
calibration cube, benchy is more like a first html webpage than hello world Also it takes too long to print compared to the cubes ;)
>>
>>2103420
>>2103442
thanks i'll try both, i also found an "aio tester" and i guess i'll try that too
>>
>>2103447
The benchy is the AIO tester. There's a nice website somewhere to tell you what you need to tweak.
>>
>>2103421
Pretty cool anon. Did you publish the design? Where did you attach it?

>>2103423
Ah shit, no wonder it took like 3 hours to print. My bed is glass though so I wouldn't get that texture if I did print it top down.
>>
>>2103421
>>2103513
I see the feet at an angle on second look. Did you design those too? Care to post a picture of your printer from the front? We could all use some inspiration!
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>>2103513
>>2103515
Not published yet, I'd like to get the cable clips done and fix a couple of small issues first, but if you're interested I can put an archive on mega so you can take a look.
It's supposed to attach to the underside of the 4040 extrusions with M3 screws and T nuts. The T nuts are an endangered species in my area though so I just used some printable ones with a slot in hex nut from Thingy.

The feet are also my own design, I sketched something out quickly and printed in TPU in hopes they'd absorb some vibrations. Turns out 95A TPU printed with standard wall and surface thickness isn't flexible enough to absorb shit, so I just ended up with a set of rather expensive printer feet.
The good part was that being made out of TPU I could hammer them into the V slots without worry. Yet another case of me designing with too low tolerances + thermistor commiting sudoku while printing them made sure that they didn't slide on smoothly.
>>
>>2103529
That looks good anon, I like it. Yeah I'd check out the mega if you posted it. Did you have to extend any of your wiring? Are you using Klipper by chance? Curious about how those feet effect resonances.
>>
>>2103420
Still doesn't change the fact that the firmware is missing essential features and sometimes it doesn't save to EEPROM. I'm contemplating a different board but that's beyond my capabilities right now all things considered.
>>
>>2103553
No wiring extensions besides the E motor wire for direct drive. I mounted the main board as far left as I could and that leaves a lot of extra wire that is unused even at Zmax.
No Klipper yet but it's coming soon™.

https://mega.nz/file/dRcBgQAT#x-AlQepv8croprwzhlctFiZ5oNz0Q5fYRotMBLDsdfs
>>
Is Carbon filament safe to use?
>>
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I SCORED A NEPTUNE 2!
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>>2103581
yeah its perfectly safe, though if you go sanding a shit ton of it then you might be concerned. A little dust from light filing/sanding is okay. Its on the same level as silica dust, a little bit of exposure is no prob, breathing in big clouds of it is another ballgame.
>>
>>2103581
you have to print it with a nozzle designed to work with abrasive filaments.
should tell you what you need to know.
>>
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Hey all, posted in /tg/ but figured I'd post here too. Cannot figure out why my models keep falling off their god damn supports all of a sudden.

>Adjusted lift speeds
>Changed out FEP and played around with tightness
>Tried different resin
>Put on deeper / bigger supports
>Leveled my bed over and over
>Adjusted exposure times and base.

Results always seem to be the same. Pic is my current settings after deciding to wipe the board and start over from scratch.
>>
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what is the point of this
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>>2103741
It has a similar purpose to the cuts in a coil coupling. It allows a certain amount of misalignment at the expense of slight lag in acceleration.
>>
>>2103741
>>2103751
also some smoothing out of shock/vibration
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what causes this anons? i also get perfectly straight divit lines on prints as well and i feel they are related. hatchbox pla on ender 3 v2
i have the red double gear extruder and my esteps are spot on. that’s the only mod i have done to the printer
>>
>>2103796
actually you can see the straight line in that pic as well
>>
>>2103751
>>2103794
is it worth it if you already have a z-sync kit installed?
>>
>>2103564
Cool, thanks anon can't wait to check it out
>>
>>2103796
>>2103799
If you run your finger across the lines perpendicular to how they are printed, does it feel rough? Your nozzle might just be a hair too close. If you have babystepping enabled, you can print a single or two layer rectangle like 25mm x 100mm and slowly babystep up, observing the change. A good layer should be pretty smooth. If it's smooth in some spots but not in others, I would test that area specifically and perhaps lower the bed by just a tiny bit.
>>
What does iron all layers do in cura? Like what is the intended/ expected result ad ive tried both that and iron only to top layer and not seen any real change.
>>
>>2103820
i’m sorry anon, what is baby stepping?
>>
>>2103826
Not that annon but babystepping is when you lower the Z axis by miniscule amounts while printing to get the proper Z height.
>>
>>2103826
You have to enable it in your firmware but it let's you move your Z axis in 0.01mm increments. I step mine up to where it would do it in a single step, which is 0.04mm on the stock Ender 3. For best results, you want to make things like your Z offset divisible by 0.04. Some call that the "magic number".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIkT8asT90A
Chep is kind of a goober but some of his videos are good.
Do you have a BLTouch?
I'm guessing you haven't started to modify your firmware yet. Don't feel obligated to, it can be hard to understand it at first.
>>
>>2103823
Supposedly if you are printing with a transparent material you can make it appear more transparent if you iron all the layers. Regular ironing should just make the top layer really smooth.
>>
anyone here buy a tungsten nozzle from spool3d or 3dmaker?
spool3d's keeps loosening and leaking on me which is exactly why I didn't want to buy from them fuck me
>>
>>2103842
>$70 nozzle
>leaks
Fuck, I'd be pissed. Maybe its your block though? What kind are you using?
>>
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I made this in like an hour today
Soldered the wires while it was printed, designed it in like 5 minutes
>>
>>2103564
What print settings did you use for the feel? Specifically walls and infill. I'm curious to test but I can only print two feet at a time. Well, maybe I could do 4 on one bed but I'm using SuperSlicer and it does sequential printing instead of build plate layer by layer (I'm not sure what to call that mode). I feel like if they were filled completely they would be best but I'm probably wrong.
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>>2103853
ez
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>>2103833
yeah no BLTouch yet. wanted to learn this thing as stock as i could but i read the number one improvement without fuckign with too much is changing out that plastic extruder setup. ive been wanting to eventually get a BLTouch however. and the custom firmware is kinda a very far thing for me to accomplish at this stage i feel.
>>
>>2103857
Hey man, do your own pace, no shame in that. If you eventually do want to upgrade the extruder I'd first think about making sure everything is properly calibrated. Esteps and flow. Esteps tell you're extruder stepper motor how many steps it's supposed to do to extrude a proper length of filament. Takes a few minutes to do, and it's worth it. Also think about doing a flow calibration, those are always helpful.
>>
>>2103852
.4mm v6 but I've swapped back to a brass and nozzle x which are both working like normal
going to pick up a caliper and see how botched these canadian threads are
>>
>>2103854
I don't remember exactly but infill is somewhere between 20-30% and walls are 3 0.4 lines with 6 0.15 layers top/bottom. It's way too rigid with these settings, I could have printed them out of PLA if I knew they'd turn out like this.
>>
>>2103864
Well I was thinking the tungstun barely expands at all when heated so depending on your heater BLOCK , you might get better results with something like copper VS aluminum. Maybe wrap the nozzle's threads with plumbers tape. It's PTFE but I'm not sure how hot it can get, might have the same safe temps as Capricorn.
>>
Damn, the hot bed I got from ali can't even reach a 100°C and takes forever to warm up.
>>
>>2103853
>>2103855
OK, what is it?
>>
>>2103855
You printed electrical tape? It's line you've never heard of heat shrink.
>>
>>2103880
>Maybe wrap the nozzle's threads with plumbers tape.
Let's insulate the nozzle from the block, that's probably a good idea, right?
>>
>>2103972
Insulate all the things!
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Hi I'm trying to make a PVS-14 with just the tubes and 3d print the case.
I found this ''dummy'' stl that's perfect except the 30mm holes need to be changed.
I use 123d it works perfect for making stl's but for some weird reason I can't edit existing stl's, can anyone help? On the 123d help site there is a video of an old lady editing a phone case saying ''you can rotate and scale it like this, and sometimes you can edit them'' how the fuck is that helpfull.......
>>
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>>2104031
>there is a video of an old lady editing a phone case saying ''you can rotate and scale it like this, and sometimes you can edit them'' how the fuck is that helpful
That's what you get for using autodesk shit.
Jokes aside most CADs are shit at editing STLs. STL is the PDF of 3D printing, it's only used to keep size low, but since we're in 2021 and storage space is plentiful and cheap the STL format is no longer needed. It'd be much more useful if people posting designs on thingy would post the CAD file itself so you can make changes as you need.
>>
>>2103961
Cable for a telephone
>>
>>2103957
Sounds like the one that came with my Monoprice Mini. My choices are to either live with 50C or hit it with the heat gun to get it started.
>>
>>2104055
so is there a way to convert this into something that a different program can edit? or do I really need to redraw the complete unit to make the tube fit.
>>
>>2104088
OpenSCAD is good for simple changes like that.
>>
>>2104099
LMAO
>>2104088
tinkercad imports STLs pretty easily. I've modded a bunch of shit from thingiverse through it.
>>
>>2104053
that happens with cats. just smile, nod and brush
>>
bltouch is being a bitch again
>>
>>2103972
Well it's not the threads that are the problem anyways, probably the nozzle and heatbreak aren't seated properly together. Why? I have no idea. Maybe anon just got a shitty nozzle. I'd try a different heatbreak first.
>>
Do you guys know of a good way to keep a V6 from rotating?
>>
>>2104105
Luckily its just the support structures that are all stringy, and its wood filament so I was going to sand anyways.
>>
>>2104154
Uh, just use a good mount? My v6 clone only rotates if I really force it with the direct drive unbolted.
>>
>>2104088
both meshmixer and blender deal with existing .stl fine, f360 a shit.
>>
>>2104165
Well I just thinking a round thing in a a round mount. I don't think mine actually rotated when the mount is tight. I was thinking like a set screw or something but it's probably not necessary
>>
what would happen if your hotend was at 45 degrees instead of 90?
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>>2104386
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>>2103419
Why not a dog?
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>>2104386
did you try putting a belt on it
>>
Prusaslicer is so much better than cura. I get way faster, better looking prints and dont have to screw around with so many settings
>>
>>2104419
Turn on advanced settings newfag, there is even more than Cura
>>
>>2104431
Advanced in which slicer? I used them in cura but they take so much fiddling and i cant really see any benefits to cura.
>>
>>2104419
if your settings are the same in both slicers you would get exactly the same results dingus. its not like theres a different way to extrude and retract plastic onto a build plate.

Put both in advanced mode and go to town copying settings from prusaslicer into cura, doing this will help you better understand both the software and the parameters themselves.
>>
>>2104437
Why even bother? I understand what most settings do, but i dont want to spend hours tweaking them when i could spend that time actually making models. The flexible layer height feature is also very nice to have
>>
>>2104444
>Why even bother?
see >>2104437
>doing this will help you better understand both the software and the parameters themselves

really desu you don't understand shit if you're getting "better looking prints" going from one slicer to another
>>
>>2104471
This explains literally nothing. What matters is geting good prints, if the prints are good then why learn more? Again, the time is better spent refining 3d modelling skills
>>
>>2104474
idk man kinda just makes you a faggot if you're gonna go out and make a statement like that in your first post whilst actually knowing fuck all and not having a desire to not learn/understand. what you're actually doing. Print quality is what matters. There is no difference in print quality between prusaslicer and cura. You're a certified idiot. Stop posting and lurk moar
>>
>>2104419
I just went back and forth between both over the last year. I like Cura better, but prusaslicer is a perfectly capable slicer.

I found Cura's options more intuitive, I like the plugins (especially the one that gives tons of pop-up documentation on settings), and I didn't care for prusaslicer's multiple tab layout. Also tree supports.

Most of the differences that matter to me are subjective, other than tree supports.
>>
>>2103741
Google Lovejoy coupling, then come back.
>>
>>2103796
Heh, this artifact sucks because it results from either being slightly too close or slightly too far from optimal first layer Z. The 'bead' of the extrusion is flopping back and forth.
Can also happen on subsequent layers if under/over-extruding, but it's usually a first layer artifact.
>>
>>2103842
Loosening/leaky nozzle is usually because your heatbreak came loose during the nozzle change. As you tighten the nozzle down, the heatbreak just unscrews and backs out.
>>
>>2104154
Pliers, or not using a v6. It's my number one complaint about it. Such a giant pain in the ass.
>>
>>2104547
You've got a crappy mount if it's rotating. I've never had an issue with any of mine unless I'm disassembling the extruder
>>
>>2103308
How much filament do I have left in pic related
>>
>>2103796
what layer height are you printing at in that pic?
>>
>>2104560
4
>>
>>2104560
Show it on its side too
>>
Can anyone share their ramming gcode? I've tried to make a manual one but I always end up with a long string at the end of my filament.
>>
What is this? I mean I know it's a bit of tube that's part of the heat break, but what do I order to replace this bit?
>>
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Have any of you guys had this bubbling affect on the top of your prints with ABS? I'm printing in a 50 degree C enclosure and the filament seems dry, since the walls and even slight overhang are flawless. This picture is someone elses', but it looks exactly like my issue. The floor of my benchy inside the cabin and the roof both look like this.
>>
>>2104611
I should've mentioned, four top layers.
>>
>>2104598
>>
>>2104612
does that match the infill? could there be a fan inflating the skin by blowing into the stack hole?
>>
>>2104614
Measure it and calculate the volume. Account for 50% packing inefficiency.
>>
>>2104614
9/10 filament holder, would prefer more sunrise orange tones in the Hawaiian print dust cover
can you weigh it and subtract 250-300g for the spool?
>>
>>2104615
I've got part cooling disabled in Cura, and the hotend fan doesn't let any air go down onto the part. This issue hasn't happened before. I'm going to try playing with skin settings and reprint.
>>
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>>2104615
Also, on the Benchy I printed, the holes went all the way through. They went through this single layer of skin (blue arrow) AND the four layers of roof (green arrow).
>>
>>2104560
i'd guess 100 grams approximately
weigh that spool, and weigh a new spool, compare the results
my empty spools weigh around 200grams
>>2104616
>purchase by weight
>uhhh lets figure out the volume
idiet
>>
>>2104628
>what is density
Retard
>>
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>>2104630
ok, place the spool and material in water and calculate the displacement
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>>2104632
That's why I told him to estimate it instead, anon. It has worked well enough for me.
>>
>>2104632
You, I like

>>2104651
What works for me is to just print shit until it's out because I'm not a pussy.
>>
>>2104611
I've seen this happen before, although I'm not sure what the root cause is exactly. I remember the pattern developing as the solid layer cooled, though. Perhaps turning on part cooling will help?
>>
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>>2104668
I was printing my ABS at 250, and apparently this brand is some kind of "prototyping ABS" that recommends 190 to 230. Honestly, I just bought it spontaneously because it was 15 fake Canada dollars and just used my regular ABS profile. I lowered my temp to 240 and it seems to have resolved the issue.

I will not turn on the cooling fan because it asked me nicely.
>>
>>2104651
I'm trying to get him to either build job control into his firmware and print server, or delete system32 his current roll of filament for the lulz. even with PLA he'd be pretty fucked

>>2104683
does it smell like ABS? are tumors growing out of your nose yet?
>>
>>2104605
Isn't it just standard size ptfe tube? Which hotend is that?
>>
>>2104695
Yeah, it smells pretty strongly of ABS. No tumors yet
>>
>>2104659
thank you I didn't have a masculine father figure to teach me such things
>>
Has anyone had ridiculously low layer adhesion with ASA? ABS prints perfectly fine but ASA seems to stick to the bed infinitely better than to itself. 50C enclosure, 250C nozzle, 95C bed, same amount of extrusion as ABS.
>>
How come no one here does dual or more extrusions? Is it too hard? Too niche? Too gay?
I figured there would be at least one Prusafag with a MMU2 or some skilled autist with a SMuFF. Hell, even a single regular anon with a Y-splitter and two stepper motors.
I guess that sort of thing is really rare.
>>
>>2104611
The trapped air gets hot and expands after you put a layer of material on top. For the first 1-2 top layers this is not an issue since the space isn't airtight yet, starting from the 3rd layer it's airtight so the heat can pass into the air below. Because the material above the cavity is above the glass temp it can deform easily under the force exerted by the heated air.
Lower temperatures help with this, another fix is having more top layers. I use 6 for my ABS which I print at 260C and that effect is barely noticeable.
>>
What should i print to use up the rest of my spoot (70% is left)? Ive got some functional prints in mind but the ink i have is white so it wouldnt work for them
>>
>>2104699
it's got a bigger inside diameter and it's in the block. it's from a monoprice mini delta and it's just a heatblock, heatbreak tube, that tube bit, bowden tube fitting. the heatbreak tube and bowden are kept in by the flat metal/set screw and the cooling block is attached with two screws in the back.
>>
>>2104800
print custom filament. I swear you fucks have no imagination.
>>
I've been told that these things are fantastic at removing brims, but I just have a massively hard time using them on anything that isn't an internal radius.
Am I being retarded?
>>
>>2104800
print a box to store your spool in when you don't have a need to print anything
>>
>>2104614
your attire and shitty basement remind me of
nikoesht
>>
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if you are over 50 and own a 3d printer, you have to print this thing
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>>2104877
>Am I being retarded?
yes.
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>>2104902
Do those even have a sharp edge?
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>>2104908
>sharp
see this shit is why you're a failure
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>>2104895
Holy shit thats a relic from a bygone 4chan
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does a bltouch have to be mounted from a certain position or does it matter? i read somewhere that it has to be within like 8mm of the nozzle in z but im thinking about mounting one to a servo and the probing position would be lower than that
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>>2104775
been thinking about dual V6 and running PVA vs. PETG but have some fundamentals to get right first

>>2104908
ideally, brims should just tear off after bending

>>2104925
why do you want to measure a servo instead of the hotend?
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spamanon here, thedoorcanwait edition. Will this work as a curtain holder in PLA? I think I beefed the new one (right, the left is just the dimensions of the old metal one) enough to resist some pulling if printed on its side, but I might be wrong.
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>>2104931
Missed the attachment because I am special. So fucking special.
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>>2104775
also wondering this, dual extruder seems like the best way to major league swag out a printer
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>>2104927
>why do you want to measure a servo instead of the hotend?
i dont
the probe would be attached to the servo which would be attached to the hotend
when the servo activates it moves the probe to probing position and the normal probing procedure happens there are plenty out there that do this already
but my question is if it has to be within 8mm of the nozzle you know the nozzle to probe offset
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>>2104931
>>2104933
Export your model to Fusion 360 and then test its strength. Personally I think the rod is way too thin and might snap, even with the shell there to help hold it. So maybe you can make the rod much thicker and you could probably even model something inside the cover that the rod would rest on. That's what I would do.
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>>2104957
>Export your model to Fusion 360 and then test its strength
I've heard poor reports on that, on the lines of resulting in an educated guess.
>I think the rod is way too thin and might snap
The spidery fucker on the left is the old metal model, my PLA version is on the right :3
>maybe you can make the rod much thicker
The new version on the right is solid all throughout save for the screw holes
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>>2104972
Sliced like so
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>>2104951
>probing position
according to the servo plus whatever stop mechanism you use plus whatever dust/strings/etc. happen to slip between the stop, minus whatever deformation happens to the stop in usage. your results will not be as consistent as if you attached a hard wing to the carriage
>does it have to be
you do know BLtouch has a servo built in, right? go watch videos of the BLtouch installation/calibration process so that you have any idea at all what is even happening

>>2104976
>solid
infill doesn't contribute that much to part strength above 25-40%, for the same sort of reason that tube stock is stronger than round stock. try a ~3mm wall with 40% infill, put your steel-toed boots on, and do some destructive testing. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised
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>>2104989
>~3mm wall with 40% infill
Already printing, but I'll use that for the next pair, thanks!
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>>2104998
too bad you're not plain glass gang, I'd expect a better finish on the mating and visual surfaces by printing the mating surfaces down
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>>2105007
There's no mating surfaces, they are two identical pieces side by side. I printed them on the side so the axial and vertical forces from the weight go along layer lines. But yeah, a glass bed would be comfy :3 I have a sheet glass shop nearby, should I go full autist and ask for borosilicate, or would just plain window glass work?
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>>2104976
(sliced as in the process for generating gcode for printing them; they will be printed whole)
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>>2104998
Whoah, we're halfway there!
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>>2105012
ohhh I see now. yeah, definitely would not have printed them wall side down, the cuff holding the curtain rod would have gone to shite and that would have been stupid
can't recommend any particular glass, still using what came with my CR-10 lockdown special after stripping the piss coating off
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>>2104989
currently i have a bltouch that I've been using for months mounted to the side of my nozzle
my idea is to use a servo to move the bltouch directly under the nozzle im not worried about dust or strings or whatever because ill be right there when it is in use and i wouldnt deploy a dirty probe
i think as long as the mechanism the probe is attached to is sturdy it will give consistent results besides i can check the deviation to confirm that so again im not worried
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>>2105040
>my idea is to use a servo to move the bltouch directly under the nozzle
to accomplish what? protip: you're wrong
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>>2104800
put that spool in a gallon ziplock bag with some dessicant, and print the stuff you want to print in another color
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>>2104877
its technique, i used those in a machine shop for years, you need to learn different angles for different edges
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>>2105019
They look like horseshit. Good thing I got a new file and some sandpaper. I'm overextruding, amn't I?
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>>2105126
It don't fit for half a millimetre. Fuck me.
>>2104998 >>2104989
Time for a tweak and your 3mm shell suggestion!
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>>2105089
i would like to be able to probe where my nozzle can print instead of extrapolating some of the points
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>>2105126
>I'm overextruding, amn't I?
lol no that warping is from your supports not really being in the correct spot and so the filament didn't bridge all the way. Could be a misprint of the supports, bed not level, or maybe too hot extrusion temp/not enough cooling. desu printing a part entirely on supports is a bad idea and asking for this to happen. You might be able to lay one side down on the bed so that the part holds some of its own weight instead of all on the supports. And still get it to print in a way that it doesnt just break the moment you put a rod in it.
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>>2105144
Adaptive layer height, 3mm wall, 20% infill. Would have gone with none but there are some internal features. Enlarged the hole so the curtain rod can fit.
>but anon you could have filed the hole
I want the design to be repeatable for a couple more curtains. Also I did the 100mm extrusion test ritual and I'm actually underextruding.
>>2105186
>Could be a misprint of the supports
>bed not level
Nah, the supports look like they should and the bed's okay enough
>maybe too hot extrusion temp/not enough cooling
Perhaps. I'll try 195ºC instead of 200. I could also try and print the outer walls slower. I should indeed improve my cooling. I do have it in front of the AC right now, so maybe...
>You might be able to lay one side down on the bed so that the part holds some of its own weight
I have indeed toyed with the idea. I'll try that on next batch if slower outer walls don't work.
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>>2105202
>curtain
The curling is actually worse. I tuned it back to 200 on the run and turned the feedrate down to 70%. Fuck I need a better part fan.
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>>2105202
that support structure is triggering me bad
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>>2105251
Why in particular? Because the print is basically printing on air?
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>>2105165
the nozzle and the touch sensor's touch point should always be at a fixed offset from one another. if they are not, something is very wrong with your setup
if your machine is square, and you have configured Marlin's NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET config item (q.v.) with a (40,5,2) xyz offset, there should be no difference between moving the hotend to e.g. (140,105,7) such that the touch sensor is over (100,100,5) then probing, and moving your mechanism to (100,100,5) and probing... if your mechanism is perfectly repeatable and precise. the software fix might be easier. much easier

>>2105202
I'd be thinking about printing this in two pieces that thread or twist-lok together to achieve a smooth wall face and a strong cuff
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>>2105254
no, the raft is fine if it's necessary. Though it very well may not be needed. I hate wasting support material.

I'm triggered by the tower of support on the left going all the way up the side of of the part to support a tiny area of that hole. The support should be a tiny structure inside the hole that can be popped out with a screwdriver instead of that monstrous hentai tentacle. Not sure where the control is in your slicer but Simplify3D gives the option for "normal supports" or "supports only from build platform" to change that.
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>>2105263
>two pieces that thread or twist-lok together
Not a bad idea; I'd like them to be completely symmetric. It could be enough to just glue the halves together, with an optional couple of dowels.
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>>2105264
I turned off "print supports everywhere" because it was doing some funny business in the right ("upper") wall screw mount hole. I could just inhibit that corner altogether. Here's another juicy tenutakuru for the grubscrew hole just for you anon-kun ;3
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>>2105264
tree supports do that and some people really like their tree supports
in older Cura, when tree supports were still experimental, it was possible to use both trees and regular supports, with non-build-plate-attached supports for holes etc. done regular style. I think that was a bug, in their eyes

>>2105273
anon, did you leave the printer enclosure open? it's suddenly very warm in here
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Don’t remember which settings I changed to get stringers so badly and too new to figure it out. Any pointers?
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>>2105263
here is a picture since you seem to be having a hard time understanding what i mean
if the probe is at the same x and y as the nozzle but at a different z the probe can reach every spot on the bed that the nozzle can
as it is right now the probe is offset in x, y, and z and it cant reach every spot that the nozzle can
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>>2104775
I always wanted two colors but if two why not four, if four why not eight. It's so much overhead to get set up and apart from a few niche things it's really not necessary (I've never said, "if only I had dual filament!"). Honestly dissolvable supports would be the true pinnacle now that I think about it. Despite that my next purchase is 90% likely to be resin not FDM anyway.
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>>2105144
needs more gaussian
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>>2105284
>Any pointers?
make notes if you're going to be a sieve brain.
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>>2105289
i am now. thanks.
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>>2105202
The nozzle started digging into the curls hard and started to layershift like shit. I'm going to try and print the pieces on their sides (>>2105186). If that doesn't work, tomorrow I'm splitting the model in halves (>>2105263), or just having a T H I C C body with less overhangs.
>>2105288
My pulse is shit and my phone is potat
>>2105283
;3
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>>2104933
>for ( i = [-1,1] *10)
>*10
I didn't know you could do that.
Thanks, fucking special anon
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>>2105285
no, I get it, I just don't see how that degree of detail is useful. is your bed really that warped?

>>2105292
the wall surface might be a bit rough against the wall. the grain of that roughness isn't really working for you tho
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>>2105300
You're welcome :3
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>>2105301
>the wall surface might be a bit rough against the wall
How so? Do you mean the wall of the piece may scour the wall of the room?
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How do I stop ASA from doing this to me? I've got 6 top layers with 12% infill. It does it whether I print at 235C or 265C or anything in between. Is it possible my ASA is completely waterlogged from the factory?
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>>2105304
correct. I had considered a light impression into the drywall/plaster/paint as a possible outcome

>>2105303
>OpenSCAD does comprehensions
:D :DD 8====D
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>>2105306
It's also very easy to tear apart by hand, and the infill is all bubbly too.
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>>2105307
The paint is a tad scuffed from the previous curtain rod holder. I am at peace with that. My only constraint is that this iteration covers the scuffs, hence the round footprint. I am considering replacing it with a square section if this curling bullshit keeps showing up.
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>>2105308
>very easy to tear apart by hand
You didn't listen to this anon, did you? >>2104632
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>>2105313
I took it out of it's original packaging last night. Even if I hadn't, I only measure my filament's volume in mineral oil to make sure it doesn't absorb any moisture, so that's probably not the issue.
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Couldnt see my mum on mothers day so i made flower for her.
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>>2105310
>>2105292
It's curling like shit. Fuck. Either my filament is thiccer than it claims to be or something shenanigany is going on in my extruder, because now it's laying a thicc curly mess. I restored my esteps, and I'll retry printing these fuckers again and call it a day with whatever results.
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>>2105310
>My only constraint is that this iteration covers the scuffs, hence the round footprint
significant keks. leave the brim on this time
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>>2105342
>baby snap off your supports
>real slow
>don't burn off your strings
>i'll burn off your strings for you
>baby file off your flash
>yes yes
>you can leave your brim on
>you can leave your brim on
<dun dun
>you can leave your brim on
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>>2105301
please just at stop posting either you are dumb as shit or just pretending to be retarded either way kill yourself you useless bag of shit
>HoW cOuLd PrObInG yOuR wHoLe BeD bE uSeFuLl?
moron
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First time printing ABS, got bubbly walls after first few layers what happened?
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>>2105346
alright, sure, if you've got some little 150mm bed and you want to sample every little bump and ripple, but why is your bed so fucked up and floppy at the edges that such measurements would be of printing value? and will your servo-flippy thing really do any better?
obviously you just wanted to be validated. do as you will and post pics
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>>2105306
>>2105308
Use lines infill for stuff with large top areas. It's denser than cubic or even grid at the same percentage.
The print comes apart in places with worse layer adhesion. If you print at lower temperatures then you'll make it come apart easier. I find 260C to be a good temp for ABS or ASA.
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>>2105286
>It's so much overhead to get set up and apart from a few niche things it's really not necessary (I've never said, "if only I had dual filament!")
As someone who really wants to do multi-color prints and cant get their pause function to work at all on their shitty creality printer, I hate you.
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>>2105292
you really need to print this part at a smaller layer height. Thick layers suck at bridging because thicker = hotter and more weight fighting gravity.
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>>2105368
I precisely set up adaptative layer height so it prints difficult layers at lower heights. I was getting bunched-up plastic even in solid zones with no curling.
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>>2105365
>cant get their pause function to work at all on their shitty creality printer
spamanon here. My Ender 3 v1 nonpro with stock firmware works with filament changes triggered from the panel, from gcode, and with pause in gcode + triggered from the panel. What printer do you have, and what isn't working for you?
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>>2105365
Git gud.
M600 filament change works very well on my E3 and it's useful for far more than just changing filament.
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>>2105370
turn that off and just print it at .1 the whole time bruv, consistency is a big part to getting good prints. most of your pics are toaster grade so its hard to really tell but them layers look pretty thick boi >>2105273 also you got some kinda weird banding going on in here, it doesn't like that hole. Maybe thats why the rod didn't fit kek
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>>2105364
This was printed at 260. I suppose I'll do a temp tower from 250 to 275 and see what has the highest adhesion.
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>>2105308
look at your infill, why is it so under extruded compared to the rest of the part? thats probably why your bridges suck, are you trying to print infill at like 150mms and everything else at 50?
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>>2105383
I'll try that next time. I'll bump .1 layers over splitting the model in twain. Regarding the rod, I just failed to take into consideration the reduced clearance; the failed print of the new model had gone far up enough that I could test the curtain rod and it fit. I suspect I'm printing some P H A T lines.
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>>2105389
Nope, speeds are all at 35mm/s or 70mm/s outside of travels and initial layer, the same speeds I've printed ABS successfully with.
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>>2105394
heh well, 35 and 70 is a pretty big difference, your infill is being printed with a much higher flowrate than literally everything else. Weird that ABS works for you but ASA doesn't, and that higher temps don't help. Have you printed this exact same part successfully in ABS? Perhaps you've just been getting lucky on your other prints?

Also, you might check your extruder gear and see if its skipping and shredding plastic when trying to do that infill. 70mms might just be more than it can handle or maybe your asa is finicky about the tension it wants
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>>2105393
IT'S THE FUCKING PRINT SPEED
I reduced the feed rate by 50%, resulting in 50mm/s walls, and the curling is subsiding. I will definitively have to get colder coolers and a hotter hotend.
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>>2103315
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>>2105423 here
>>2105424 I'm half decided already to try that
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>>2105424
Holy mother of excess extruder mass, batman!

No, really - what the FUCK?
>inb4watercooled
TUBES, NIGGA
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>>2105430
>inb4 somebody hangs the radiator and tank and everything from the extruder carriage
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>>2105263
On mine, I built it too big for 8MM rods.
My bed warp is really mostly hot end sag I think.
Where the hot end is matters, less so on other printers I'd imagine, but still a factor.
I use manual mesh leveling with a small percision indicator and try to get the ball as close to the nozzle as practical
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>>2105433
Don't give him any ideas!
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Do you guys ever oil the bearings on your v-slot wheels? Mine are getting very squeaky. It's not affecting print quality in any way but it's a little annoying.
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>>2105325
That shit's kawaii as fuck, nigga
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For a direct drive hotend using a V6 a BMG is there an advantage or disadvantage to installing the top of the V6 in the BMG vs having them be separate but connected with a short length of PTFE tube? The V6 already has to have some tubing in it from the top of it to the back of the heatbreak, so is there any reason why you wouldn't just extend the tube to the BMG? The only thing I can really think of about this is that installing the V6 in the BMG simplifies the mounting of everything a little bit.
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>>2105456
I gave mine all a small shot of Tri-Flow. Can't say whether or not it helps them move better but they don't squeak but they didn't squeak before that though. I'd say try out some lubricant (not WD-40) I don't think it could hurt anything unless it reacts with and melts the wheels!
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>>2105286
>why not eight
Technically you only need three colors. You could add black and white if you wanted to get fancy and do tints and shades.
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>>2105562
that's.. not how filament works anon
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>>2105563
Anon please it is exactly how mixing pigments works. It doesn't matter if it is in filament or in ink or in paint, it mixes the safe. CMYK is for mixing pigment, RGB is for mixing light.
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>>2105572
Look I have 400 level technical graphics classes from Purdue many years ago that say your 3rd grade color theory is highly inaccurate, but that's not important right now because you're not MIXING THE FUCKING FILAMENTS in any existing system. This is the equivalent, let me put it in grade school terms for you, of having bits of construction paper and glue and thinking that putting them together using your safety scissors is going to make new colors. It might seem like it, but only from a very long way away.
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>>2105576
Yes I understand there is a difference between a combining hotend and a mixing hotend. Both types are out there but you can only really buy the combing type it seems and those are often mislabeled as a mixing hotend because people are dumb and don't care. And by mixing I mean actively mixed with a mechanical stirrer.
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>>2105576
>>2105580
There is this guys mixing hotend which is passively mixed but through a specific matrix in one of the blocks but he won't share his designs because knows the chinks will steal it.
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>>2105576
>not MIXING THE FUCKING FILAMENTS in any existing system.
Diamond hotend exists
>This is the equivalent... of thinking that putting together [paper] using your safety scissors is going to make new colors
Well shit nigger, guess you'll be surprised when you see that LCD screens work on exactly that principle! See all those dots? Individual red, green, and blue lights. Pasted together.
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>>2105584
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>>2105584
>Diamond hotend exists
deckingman does a lot of comparison between his hotend and the Diamond hotend on his blog and YouTube channel
https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/
>>
There is also this mixing delta
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POqX5iF-afA
So yeah, mixing hotends other than the Diamond do exist but youll have to make it yourself.
Well, I have seen a few on Aliexpress by Zonestar but I haven't seen any example prints from those so I can't say how well they work at the print level. The prints are probably are all toothpastey close. But there is a 4-in, 1-out version and I'm pretty sure I saw a 5-in, 2-out on there too.
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If I manually move the bed on my Ender 3, it feels like it falls in to a spot for lack of a better word. It happens at the same spot every time and there are at least 3 spots that it happens at.
I marked my bed compared to the vertical and measured between the falls. I got ~69.69mm. I thought maybe it was one of my wheels having a flat spot, but with a diameter of ~24.6, I get a circumference of about 77.24. This leads me to believe its not one of the wheels.
Any ideas what it could be?
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>>2105621
Hmm I marked all four wheels on the outside and moved the bed between the falls and the wheels were at the same spot at each fall, the same part of the wheels were touching the metal. So it has something to do with the wheels but I don't know what.
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started printing ASA with my ender 3 pro and I seem to remember some anons here saying something about the power supply fans needing a fix.
Was it that the PSU fan and the cooling fan were on the same circuit or something? I cannot remember the specifics, and googling a bunch of terms brings up nothing.
If any anons can lead me to a guide or even just tell me what it is, I would be quite thankful.
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>>2105624
I think it is the mobo case fan is tied to the parts fan, so the steppers only get cooled when the parts fan is blowing, which will fuck you if you don't have that on. The easiest way to check is to just look at your motherboard and see what wires you have in the green screw block terminals (I think).
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Why is this happening? Please help! I have a ender 3 pro
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>>2105631
Have you calibrated your printer? Looks fucked mate
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Has anyone here tried printing with Taulman's T-Glase? It's supposed to be translucent especially in vase mode. It is a PET filament, I'm not sure how the printing compares to PETG.
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>>2105645
Yeah i have calibrated the esteps
Do i have to do it regulary?
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>>2105626
ah that's the one, cheers.
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>remove old Z probe
>install bl touch
>need to 3d print holder for the bl touch
>in order to 3d print holder i need to use the bl touch to level the bed
> can't level the bed without printing the bl touch holder
WHAT THE FUCK DO I DO HELP ME
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>>2105679
Put old Z probe back on.
Print BL Touch holder.
Remove old Z probe.
Put BL Touch on.
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>>2105623
You'll probably just have to buy some new rollers and replace the fucked one. You should be able to feel which one it is by gently turning each one by itself with a finger. There's most likely a flat spot on the rubber/plastic part that rolls along the v-slot, and you'll feel when that contacts the extrusion slot.

A rough bump to the bed or overtightened eccentrics will cause flat points on those rollers.
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>>2105703
can't
i would have to take the entire printer apart again
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>>2105679
Tape the BLtouch onto the hotend carriage
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>>2105679
turn the extrusion on at a slow feedrate and then print the holder by manually moving the printer head
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>>2105631
Maybe your extruder is fucked? Looks like it's clogging or something. Perhaps it's also losing adhesion mid print if the bed is wobbly and it's losing contact
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Any have any advice for making a end fuse cap for an old dell surround sound system? Its an odd beast because the old cat has a layer of metal on the inside that joins the neg and the ground lines seperatly.
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>>2105423
>>2105292
It looks like bullcrap again, but the rods fit
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>>2105788
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>>2105793
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I really don't want to become a glue stick fag but holy shit this thing does not want to stick.
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I literally cannot stop printing dildos, they're so much fun to design and sand/polish.
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>>2105796
Slow and hot first layer
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>>2105797
Anon you test them out too don't you. Of course, you don't want an angry customer, you gotta test all your products!
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>>2105802
what do you think he meant by "sand/polish"?
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>>2105679
Level the bed by hand and R A F T over the imperfections
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>>2105796
I've only ever had to use gluestick when trying to print big fucking things fast as fuck, Otherwise a clean level bed works every time. Except for ABS, that shit always lifts and peels I always cheat with that shit cause ABS slurry just werks
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>>2105284
Tweaked settings and print is better but still has two issues. One is the partial layer on the lower right and the other is a rough side of the tubing. It's Inland PLA and I end up taping down the raft so it won't curl.
Nozzle temp: 200
Bed temp: 60
Layer height: 0.1
Shell thickness: 0.8
Bottom/top thickness: 1.2
Fill density: 20%
Ret speed: 80
Ret distance: 6
Init layer thickness: 0.3
Initial layer line width: 100%
Travel speed: 80
Bottom layer speed: 60
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>>2105826
I just changed to the glass bed and moved the z-stop switch. Will pick up calipers today for calibration purposes
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>>2105828
Forgot 2nd pic
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>>2105657
No, but there is a lot more than just esteps to calibrate. Follow this guide and you'll have good prints in no time!
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
>>
>>2105657
if you do have to do it regularly, you have bigger problems. I believe that feedability of particular materials is not a property of the extruder, that moving parts in conceptual models should follow moving parts in reality, and that feedstock should be corrected along with other feedstock parameters, in the slicer
calibrate esteps when you have changed a component of the filament feed drive, such as the extruder or its gearing

>>2105759
>star grounding via plastics
perfect
>joins the neg and the ground separately
are you sure it bonds them together and isn't just shielding? if it is, you could electrically bond with wire, and deal with shielding separately. you can also get aluminium tape at most hardware/home stores which is alright for that

>>2105795
fap tyme has officially begun at (You)r place

>>2105796
become a glue slurry fag. 1:10 school glue in water, spread evenly with foam brush. for the next run, spritz with fine mist and brush again. rinse brush thoroughly after use. PETG edges stay right where you put 'em

>>2105826
>retraction 80mm/s
I use the same distance at about half that rate with PETG and a 0.8mm nozzle. it's not string-free but I don't expect string-free from PETG, ever. being less sticky, PLA slurps back into the nozzle more easily, if it's in good condition. is your PLA wet?
are you sure your extruder is actually performing that move in full, and not missing steps or losing grip?
you should watch the printer while it's building that little hole. I could easily imagine an extruder grinding a divot into the filament you don't find out until a Bowden tube length later, especially with such violent jerking as above. check your tension. it could be flow-related or it could be model-related. the slicer preview can help you see what's different about movements in that area, if anything
>>
>>2105836
I already had the previous holders, so it's always fap tyme! It's just that now there's more available options!
>>
>>2105836
>star grounding via plastics
perfect
>joins the neg and the ground separately
are you sure it bonds them together and isn't just shielding? if it is, you could electrically bond with wire, and deal with shielding separately. you can also get aluminium tape at most hardware/home stores which is alright for that


Ill grab a picture of the inside of the fuze area and grab some dimenssions. Basically the fuse cap, the old one I lost during a move, had a sorta screw on effect, and metal lining the inside that joined 2 ends, I now believe they were NEG and GRND. There are 2 protruding metal pieces in the fuse chamber that makes contact with the end cap when fully "screwed" in, only takes 1 turn tho. I don't want to replicate whats there, I only need a cap that will hold the current fuse in place and join the circuit so I can use the subwoofer.
>>
>>2105839
>fuse cap
oh, that part
it's better to replace the entire holder assembly, if you can. you shouldn't fuck around with mains power lightly
>>
>>2105845
I've got the fuse, the holder is fine, I just lost the end cap tis all, sometimes it works when I cover the whole thing in aluminium but eventually, the heavy base dislodges the fuse and wrap from the holder due to excess vibrations. It still works fantasticly but I need that sub to kick.
>>
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>>2105836
Thank you so much for the help. I really appreciate being able to focus on the areas to improve. PLA could be wet as we got massive storms and I don't have an enclosure yet. I will work on that next week. Will diy since I am cheap af. And I've seen little filament bits around the extruder so will look at that, too. It's a week old stock and know I'm on the lower end of the learning curve atm.
Trying to remove the stringers, here's the tests. I'll drop the retraction speed again.
#2:
Ret speed: 50
Ret distance: 6
Print speed: 80
Nozzle temp: 200
Bed temp: 60

#3 changed:
Ret speed: 80
Ret distance: 4

#4 changed:
Ret speed: 80
Ret distance: 4
Print speed: 60

#5 changed:
Ret speed: 80
Ret distance: 6
Print speed: 80
>>
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>>2105849
>I just lost the end cap tis all
I've been doing electronics for 20 years. don't fuck with safety systems you do not understand. you will not 3D print an adequate, safe replacement for this component and every other course of action available to you is better than what you are trying to do. either buy the damn fuse holder or open the device up and strap a wire across the fuse holder
>>
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You'll probably just have to buy some new rollers and replace the fucked one. You should be able to feel which one it is by gently turning each one by itself with a finger. There's most likely a flat spot on the rubber/plastic part that rolls along the v-slot, and you'll feel when that contacts the extrusion slot.

A rough bump to the bed or overtightened eccentrics will cause flat points on those rollers.

>>2105717
Ok thanks for the tip, I'll investigate them a little better tonight. I was looking at new wheels yesterday, I think it's really dumb that they don't sell enough in one pack to replace them all. You either have to buy two small backs or one big pack. At least on Amazon.
I did see some neat looking wheels that Trianglelabs has for sale. I think they were called Iglidur wheels. Might get those just because they look cool. Are there any certain wheels that are generally recommended because of their material?
Attached is a pic from the left side under my bed. Both sides look like this where there is a lot of dust on the edges of the wheel. Is this normal? Maybe they are worn down. I've only had the printer going since early January.
>>
>>2105759
Do you have a picture of what the fuse cap is supposed to look like?
>>
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So I bought a sealing cereal container for my TPU and maybe for some other stuff in the future like nylon. I also bought a dehydrator machine and some temperature/humidity monitors.
If I put an old spool in the container along with one of the monitors, how long do I need to wait before I can consider the readings accurate? One hour? Less? More maybe? Does it even work like that? What sort of readings should I consider good for humidity? Obviously lower would be better but I doubt it will be in the single digits.
>pic related
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>>2105352
I was literally cooking the material, my PID must be off since I was in the range specified by manufacturer.
Should've used more overhang angle I trusted my overhangs like a fool.
Any tips to get better results on my ender 3 + dragon hotend?
>>
>>2105940
Also can I paint my ABS with heat resistant paint to give it that little bit more heat resistance?
>>
>>2105867
Dell proprietary EQ. They don't sell replacements and stopped producing the unit back in 2008. I think I understand the electronics side of it, at least as far as the volts amps and ohms pushed into the neg side, as long as I make a decent piece I think I should be fine. Ironically I did buy that exact piece and it doesnt fit at all, about 2x's too thick in radius.


>>2105879
No I don't but when I get home from work i'll take some pictures of the unit itself and the dimenssions as well.
>>
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>>2105795
>>2105292
Slightly less unprintable version for next time. I should also try a variant with dual rod holders so I can leave the blackout open, have a privacy curtain, and have fap tyme in the sunlight without the neighbours screaming about my rod.
>>
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>>2105954
This should work... r-right anons?
>>
>>2103741
Dampening high-acceleration leadscrew motion systems, it's not the right application for something slow like a printer's z-axis, but they're cheap, so people use them anyway. Normally you'd use a bendy spiral-cut beam coupling there to compensate for any non-squareness between the motor shaft and leadscrew.

>>2104538
It's called a spider coupling, lovejoy is a brand
>>
>>2105788
Why don't you print them standing like in this picture?
Or cut them in half, print both sides flat on the print surface and glue with CA + activator.
Should still need more than strong enough.
>>
>>2105857
>PLA could be wet as we got massive storms and I don't have an enclosure yet. I will work on that next week
that does look like wet PLA, unfortunately
look up the "Rubbermaid 21 cup" filament boxes and fixtures on thingiverse. drop a reptile heating pad, 40mm fan, and thermistor sensor in the box, and control it from outside with a W1209 thermostat board or spare I/Os on the printer motherboard or pi. add some desiccant to the bottom for maximum dehydration
>I'll drop the retraction speed again.
hold the distance for the first tryout, the Bowden tube is typically responsible for ~4mm of play

>>2105891
they will only measure the relative humidity of the air inside the box, which should equilibrate within an hour for sure. those are not very accurate at the levels of dryness we're interested in. sensors that are, tend to cost a lot
I use a BME280 inside my filament box connected to a pi, all logged to influxdb. I maintain temperature with a custom auxiliary heater in Klipper, and from the klippy.log's humidity and temperature readings I calculate my dew point, which is an absolute measure of air moisture

>>2105962
>Among Us curtain rod holders
I don't see any reason not to like it, except I might chamfer the bottom edges rather than fillet, to keep that edge clean
>>
>>2105990
not him but PLA is really brittle and likes to crack on layer lines more than anything else. Printed standing up like that will mean all of the force that comes through the curtian rod is sent directly to the weakest point of the object.

theres this kid on youtube called cnc kitchen and he does a million different 3d print strength tests, And its crazy something like 2x the strength just printing parts in an orientation such that the perimeters bear the load instead of the layers.
>>
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>>2105990
>Why don't you print them standing like in this picture?
It will be the perfect worst-case scenario for cracking the piece in two (this desu >>2105995)
>>>2105990
>Or cut them in half
That is indeed a future option
>>2105992
>chamfer the bottom edges rather than fillet
Like so?
>>
>>2105999
yeah, like that, to get rid of any overhang and the resulting support litter. the other surfaces can still be rounded if you want, in case it looks better from visual angles that way
>>
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>>2106001
Took the ball and ran with it. Less horrible?
>>
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>>2106007
And with a bestagonal base
>>
For joining two flat pieces together at a 90° angle like for the corner of a box, which is the best type of joint to use? I guess printing it as one piece would be ideal but that isn't always possible.
>>
>>2104564
default cura height
>>
>>2105992
>BME280
Thats only $5 more than the 4-pack I bought... should have asked before purchasing! I like the idea of reading the sensor with a Pi, I'll have to look in to that since I already have one with Klipper running. Do you have a graph in Octoprint with the readings or something like that? What do you consider an ideal dew point reading?
I'm concerned some of my filament may be wet. My oldest spool was opened maybe 4 months ago and has just been hanging out in the open air. When I print with it, sometimes I hear little popping sounds. They aren't constant but it sounds like a small bubble popping maybe. I live in the PNW so it's pretty humid this time of year.
>>
File: xchange plate.gif (3.35 MB, 620x349)
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>2021
>using a servo to move your bltouch
>>
>>2106021
It's bake o'clock, anon
>>
>>2106022
Your gif seems defective.
>>
>>2106013
really depends on the kind of box your making anon
>>
>>2106047
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printermods/xchange-v10-hot-swap-tool-changing-for-every-3d-printer
>>
I'm dodging the draft in my cunt and i figured that the easiest way to get permanent dismissal is to chop off two phalanx on my pinky and ring fingers on my non dominant hand and replace them with a 3d printed prosthesis. Are there any good projects for this kind of prosthesis alread or at least something i can use to make my own?
>>
>>2106109
what country?
>>
>>2106148
Russia
>>
>>2105992
>looks like wet PLA
thank you! even though it's a bummer, i'd rather have that than trying to tweak settings that don't need to be messed with. Wish I had made these a priority first. Will get on those boxes right away.
>>
>>2106062
Well the container I bought is similar to a 20-c Rubbermaid one. It is sealed with a gasket. I also just got a dehydrator so I don't think the filament container needs to be heated. I will be putting a big desiccant pack in with the TPU as well as storing if in a vacuum-sealed dry bag while not in use.
>>
>>2103842
you are tightening your nozzle while the block is hot, right anon?
>>
I want to print a hotend mount plate for my new ender 3 do I have to do anything special or can I just print it in pla?
>>
My Ender 3 started making a weird, loud, thunking noise from the bed, and there's a lot of Y-axis layer shifts in one direction, towards the rear of the printer. I can't see anything wrong with the printer though, everything moves really well manually and with manual commands. Is this is a common symptom of a faulty motor?
>>
>>2105871
My wheels get wear dust like that too. I expect they'll last for a while given how tight the fit on the frame is anyway. Nothing lasts forever though. Please post again someday if you find good replacement wheels, anon.
>>
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>>2106010
I like the hex version better from a DfM standpoint because of more build plate contact and more vertical walls

>>2106013
edges are where two surfaces meet. corners are where three (or more) surfaces meet
what's better is situation-dependent. it depends not only on the edge, but the size of the box, thickness of the wall, the usage of the part, the orientation of the flats during printing, the visual status of surfaces, the dimensional accuracy of the extruder, and the skill and perseverance of the designer. living hinges, dovetails, mortise-and-tenon, square pegs in round holes, arrow snaps, or even screw wells might be appropriate for any given situation. the only way to know what's right for you is to print and test sections

>>2106021
>a graph in Octoprint
no, I use Repetier-Server for printer control. I have a script polling the BME280 every 10 seconds, deriving the dew point, and writing all to influxdb on a remote host, graphs served by Grafana. I feel a bit like I'm posting a phone screenshot with 5% battery left, the desiccants are overdue for a bake. Klipper is also using the sensor for control but unflustered by my interjections. praise be to linux
>opened maybe 4 months ago
>hanging out in the open air
>PNW
>little popping sounds
any two of those factors would have been diagnostic. put the oven on, fren, it's bake day
the target dew point for hygroscopic resins for injection molding is -40, but that's not gonna happen without drier-than-ambient air, which implies a desiccant dryer. in my experience PETG prints decently at room temp with a dewpoint around -5C. well-rejuvenated desiccants and a good seal are important to holding that
>>
>>2106232
>hex version
Yeah :3
>well-rejuvenated desiccants
Should I just chuck some in an electric oven?
>picrelated
Why are the graphs using different scales, whyyyyy
>>
>>2106195
lol dont print it in pla bro, that stuff is so friggin sensitive to heat that it becomes basically silly puddy at 140c. your hot end mount will hold right up until you do a long print and get up to real operating temp.
>>
>>2106195
I would recommend using PETG. This will future-proof you if you ever want to enclose the printer, and it will likely last longer than PLA. PLA will begin to warp after a few long prints over top of that hotplate.
>>
Is there any issue with printing something that takes up the whole build plate like this?
>>
>>2106264
As long as
1. you don't print a purge line or a skirt
2. 0,0 is precisely aligned with the corner of your build plate
3. you have no clips holding your bed
you should be good
>>
>>2106211
To test the motor, turn off the printer. While it is off, swap the X and Y motor cables. Turn the printer back on and auto home. After that, move the X axis (Y will actually move). Then test the Y axis. Post results.
Don't swap the cables while the printer is on because you could blow your stepper drivers!
>>
>>2106273
cheers. any tips for getting it off when it's done? Should I hit the corner with a cold blast from an upside down can of air duster?
>>
>>2106285
Let it cool so you don't deform it, then sneak the sharpest knoife you have under a corner, then the spatula, and slowly work around.
>>
>>2106285
Depends on your particular build surface, but my method of choice that doesn't fuck up the print or the build plate is to take off the build plate and stick it in the fridge or freezer. The extra temperature difference should make the print detach from the surface by itself if it didn't already.
>>
Is there a way to fix a partially defective BL Touch? It works just fine 70% of the time, but the rest of the time it fails and gives an M112 BLTouch Failure error. Pulling the probe out gently and letting it flick back up fixes it every time, and it works fine after a printer restart.

This is entirely manageable, but pisses me off just enough that I want to fix it up.
>>
>>2106302
>My chest freezer is a few feet away from my printers
This isn't a bad idea, but I feel like you are going to lead to cracking if you cool a print too fast
>>
>>2106308
>>2106302
Maybe stick it in the fridge for a good hour first?
>>
>>2106308
I stick it in the fridge first and if that's not enough I then put it in the freezer.
That being said I have not used this trick in a long time since a bare glass plate will let go of the prints quite readily once it cools 30-40C below the printing temperature.
>>
>>2106276
I loosened the wheels on the bed just enough that the bed doesn't wobble, and it seems to be working fine now. Previously I tightened it so that I couldn't move the two wheels on the left by hand without moving the carriage, like the internet suggested, but that resulted in the thunking noise and layer shifting.
>>
>>2106348
Glad to hear it wasn't your motors!
>>
>>2106307
Have you tried adjusting the screw on the top of it? I'm not entirely sure what it does, I think it has something to do with the magnet. At what point does the probing fail? Like does it fail to deploy or fail to retract?
>>
>>2106373
Fails to deploy occasionally. When that happens, a simple very gentle pulldown by hand fixes it right up. I never actually noticed that screw because of the design of my custom hot-end enclosure. I guess I'll give it a try when my current print is done.
>>
how does one print a receiver lol? do you need $5000 for a metal 3d printer?

an ancient egyptian god asked me to craft masks and as I work in a plastic manufacturing plant I recently had the idea to make them from polycarbonate and I was wonder if that would be feasible too but originally I was to make them from brass.
>>
>>2106390
even if the materials necessary for qualified ceremonial artifact would be too expensive or whatever to work with I still want to get into 3d printing because it looks awesome. I have so many stupid questions. like can you even print multiple colors or...? maybe point me at a good place to start? an faq?

I'm like probably willing to spend $750-$1500 depending on what sort of options that gets me. I'm good with Blender.
>>
>>2106390
>>2106394
>maybe point me at a good place to start? an faq?
Come back after reading this
>>2103308
>All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>>
>>2106307
I had a similar issue on both of my Ender 3s, tried a bunch of stuff and surprisingly what sorted it for both of them was to take the probe out and then run it back and forth over a neodymium magnet a few times. Apparently this re-magnetizes it or something, I don't know why it should be so easily de- and re- magnetised but there you go.
>>
>>2106396
ok I'm back. what's the skinny on 3d printing metal?

and do some printers print more than one color? the $750 one the guide suggested *seems* not to.
>>
>>2106462
3D metal printing is pretty much limited to industrial settings. You can print something in plastic and then make a mold from that and cast that. Works the same as the lost wax process except its plastic instead of wax.
For multiple colors there are a few options. None of them are really cheap or easy. You can do it with one or more hotends, but you will need an extruder and stepper motor for each color. There isn't really a good option for color mixing, but you can look at "diamond hotend" for one option, or look at "3 in 1 out hotend" for another option. Diamond hotend requires 3 or 5 extruder and stepper motors (depending on the version) and the 3-in, 1-out requires 3 extruders and stepper motors.
In addition to the extruders and stepper motors, you will have to have a control board that can drive the motors. I'm not sure if there is a printer that comes with enough stepper drivers. Most of them only have X, Y, and Z for motion plus E0 for the extruder stepper, maybe E1 if you have a more expensive version but I don't really know. A lot of people get Ender 3 or CR-10 and upgrade those.
You could look in to the Prusa MMU2, you can print multiple colors/materials with that but its not designed for mixing. I think its like $300 just for the device. There is also the Palette 2/3 but that isn't designed for mixing. MMU2 and Palette work differently but achieve similar results Palette probably has better results but I think its gear towards professionals, especially with the $500+ price tag.
>>
>>2106468
OK. That's cool. So people just print plastic receivers for their guns? Like AR lowers?
>>
>>2106475
>>>/k/hbg/
>>
>>2106348
God fucking damn it this didn't work, it just reduced the frequency of the thunking noise and made the shifting less severe. I have no idea what the issue can be now, so I'm just going to entirely disassemble and reassemble the Y-axis. If I loosen the wheels anymore to reduce the issue further, the bed will rock and ruin my levelling.
>>
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Will a little model like this need supports?
>>
>>2106482
no of course not, that wheel on the back is so small it won't be affected by gravity.
>>
>>2106482
Plenty, preferably tree or something custom from the side so it doesn't rise from the base
>>2106481
You may have already tried it, but I got some skipped steps after overtightening the belts. Have you tried reducing belt tension?
>>
>>2106485
I've never played with the Y-axis belt since I got the printer, and it's still just slightly taught to the touch, I don't think it would have gotten tighter over time. Do these belts have issues with high temperatures? My enclosure is about 45C to 50C.

Would over-tightened belts cause the very loud thunking noises? It sounds more like a hard impact, but there's nothing in the path of any axis and the rails are clean.
>>
>>2106483
oh yeah i didnt see that.
>>2106485
hmm, so prusa cant do tree supports for the ender 3?
>>
>>2106109
it says you can either go to university to be exempt or do 1 year of conscription.
man up pussy.
>>
>>2106496
no those bastards at prusa made it so tree supports only work on a prusa printer sorry anon should have bought a prusa if you wanted tree supports
>>
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>>2106264
>>2106273
>>2106297
>>2106302
This is the first layer. What causes these ripples, just vibrations in the frame? I have my printer on the floor sitting on a large concrete paver on top of a garage floor foam rubber tile - How can I improve on that?
>>
>>2106225
Well there are these wheels, these are the iglidur wheels I mentioned. If you need 10 of them, it will cost over $50 from China. Kind of expensive for what they are and where they would be going (Ender 3). They are made out of
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001188810154.html
They are made from iglide J4 by Igus, a company known for their advanced materials. This link is to a bar of the same material.
https://www.igus.com/product/529?artNr=SJ4-10
>>
>>2106225
According to Trianglelab, this is the result of running these wheels back and forth at 100mm/s for 400 hours.
>>
>>2106494
The thunking sounds are getting much louder and now there's a slight grinding sound as well sometimes when the bed goes back and forth. I think something on my Y-axis is thoroughly fucked, but everything looks perfectly fine. Even the belt isn't swaying side-to-side at all like I had thought, it's perfectly straight and properly tensioned. The bed definitely isn't hitting anything, the current print is right in the middle and is about half the size of the plate.
>>
>>2106608
When the print is done, disconnect the belt. Move the bed back and forth really fast to see if it makes the noise. If it does, find the source. If not, then disconnect the motor at the back and use the belt to move the gear. See if the sound is coming from there.
Once I had a terrible noise coming from my Ender 3 and it was the plastic bracket that helps steady the hot bed wires. Maybe check that because mine was hitting the frame and the ziptie was dragging on something making a weird noise.
>>
>>2106608
>>2106615
Make sure to do that test with the printer off. Im sure you know already I just want to cover my ass, I don't want you to fuck your printer because of something I recommended.
>>
>>2106615
I don't think it's coming from the wire. It doesn't really make any kind of motion when the sound happens, so I doubt it's that. I'll be doing a full tear-down of the Y-axis when this print is either done or fails because of this.

I recorded a little video of the sound as well, does this sound familiar to anyone? Excuse my wiring, split tubing coming soon.
https://streamable.com/djwpt5
>>
>>2106582
Pretty bad if you ask me. The stock wheels don't leave that much shit around after 400 hours of printing.
>>
>>2106578
First layer is too close there. It might be that your bed is warped.
>>
>>2106621
Yeah I can hear it but I don't see what could be causing it. Well, if I was you, I would sit there with a few fingers on the Y stepper and wait for the noise. If it is coming from the motor, you'll feel it. I'd do it to each stepper motor. If it's not that... No clue, sounds like a ghost knock, sorry anon your machine is haunted.
>>
>>2106629
It's in an enclosure and it's really fucking hot in there so I didn't want to touch it, so I held a metal ruler onto the motor hard enough that I'd be able to feel the vibration in it. Stood there for two minutes like an idiot letting my hand heat up in there only to conclude it's at least not the Y-motor.

This is one hell of a hobby.
>>
>>2106634
just open the door and move it dickhead it's not hard. how fucking hot is your enclosure? have you ever used an oven?
>>
>>2106646
Can you fucking read? I was using the ruler to feel if the motor's vibrating. I'm not going to lean into my enclosure to touch a 60C+ motor for two minutes waiting for a sound and letting all kinds of breeze into a 6 hour ASA print, fuck out of here.
>>
>>2106621
Check if your filament is running smooth or if its stuttering. Maybe the Sound Comes from the extruder because of slipping filament when it retracts. Offen caused by clogged hotends. At least in my case
>>
sup /diy/ any of you got insights on how saturated the market for CCF 3d printing in the EU is already?

to me it seems rather thin due to the price of the required printers, even though multiple branches demand is probably there from (drones, planes, cars, bikes, medicine, camping / hiking, sports in general).

so me and a buddy of mine are thinking about starting a company in that area. we already got the funds, 3d modelling, book keeping and website/it/database skills to set everything up. any additional info on demand or supply in that area would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>2106694
Nah it's definitely not the extruder. When the sounds happen, the knob on the extruder doesn't flinch. Extruder skips like that are usually much quieter than this sound too. This sound is really loud, it goes right through my enclosure and my headphones.
>>
>>2106617
>I don't want you to fuck your printer because of something I recommended.
lol anon this is the website that taught the world how to wirelessly charge their iphone by microwaving it, people blindly taking advice from a bunch of anonymous retards gets what they deserve imo
>>
>>2106621
lmao its your extruder bro, looks like its binding somehow. Its even on your own video watch at :06 where you can see the filament jerk and the screw suddenly turn.

You are blind and deaf as a motherfucker holy shit, please start paying attention more bro, ADHD is something you must fight if you want to work with machines that require patience.
>>
New Thread
>>2106802
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>>2106790
If you weren't blind, you'd notice the second sound happens at the exact same time the extruder does an entirely normal traction as it starts to print a new line. Look at the first time the sound is made, the extruder moves entirely smoothly during the sound. The extruder is fine and isn't having any issues since I cold-pulled right before this print.
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>>2106804
nah look closer nigga, its even doing it the first time too. It clunks before with everything in perfect motion but the filament starts to bounce afterwards.
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>>2106578
Can you take a good close-up of those lines? It looks like it's printing just fine but there's some sort of residue on the bed
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>>2106787
Yeah that's true but this thread specifically, I think of us all like a loosely knit band of brothers, brought together by the same interest. The closest thing to friends that I got...
>mfw my actual brother tried to wirelessly charge his iphone years ago



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