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File: fadsfasdf.jpg (130 KB, 1280x720)
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This might be an odd one but if anyone here has experience with this I seek your insight.

I have an old boat with some ugly-ass formica laminate surfaces. Removing/replacing the formica is out of the cards, doing that right would require rebuilding a lot of the otherwise good cabinetry.

Apparently some of the epoxy coating products actually work quite well over formica and look surprisingly good. So I've decided to try that.

Has anyone used StoneCoat or similar products before? Any good or bad experiences? Other brands you’d recommend? Advice for applying these things neatly?

I actually don’t plan to create a swirly faux-marble pattern, just a solid white color. I think marble just looks wrong on a boat. So while some of those effects are cool I don’t care about marbling technique right now. Just epoxy application methods and durability.

Should I lay down white paint and then do clear epoxy over that, or use white-dyed epoxy? That’s my biggest question. Do these epoxy products work on vertical surfaces or drip off? Is epoxy counter paint just marketing for pinterest mommies and actually a terrible idea or does it work?
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>>2103161
Good job with the worktops buddy. Really made em shine!
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Dude, countertop is no hassle to change. Just popbit out and screw a new one in, with brackets if you must.
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>>2103400
Dude he’s in a boat. He could cap sized the place.
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Depends I guess, if the laminate is starting to delaminate then I don't think its worth doing anything to it.
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>>2103454
how do you know what size cap OP has?
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>>2103161
A guy did my countertops.
Primed them first, donno what brand
then laid down plaster in a rough texture
then stoned down the high spots
then painted
then epoxied.
So yeah it works
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>>2103388
if you're mocking the pic it was just a random image from the internet for the thread

>>2103400
these aren't normal countertops, more like complex cabinetry glued and screwed together from hard-to-find / expensive teak plywood with laminate in some areas. pic related is similar but not my boat.

>>2103456
it's not delaminating. It's in good shape, just a very ugly color. If it was peeling gluing it back down before painting wouldn't be hard

>>2103454
what the fuck is this post
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>>2103161
We stone coated some countertops before we sold our house. Turned out really good. We are going to do the ones in the house we moved into. Its kinda messy. dont even think about trying to be lazy and not cut off the back splash. It will not work it will all run off and look like shit. The hardest part it the edges where it runs.
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>>2103161
Sand everything first before epoxy coat. I would recommend priming, then 2 coat, then a clear top coat. Sand after each coat except the top coat obviously. A top clear coat shouldn't effect it at all and will make it nice and glossy. If you get bubbles in the first 2 coats (you will) lightly go over it with a torch to pop them. Epoxy is more or less glue and can be applied to any surface, though it will be much more runny once the ingredients have activated and start heating up around 30-45 minutes. Idk about stonecoat, but read instructions. I almost guarantee there will be a waiting time for the chemicals to activate and you want to make sure you wait for it to heat up before applying it. You probably will have 45min-2 hours of pot life so work semi-fast.
Don't overwork it. The more you move it and roll it the more it cures and becomes tacky. USE A WOVEN ROLLER, so many people fuck this up it's astounding. Shitty sponge will show because when you roll epoxy it gets tacky and will rip and microfiber will make it orange peel more because of the tackiness. Wooster makes a nice epoxy roller, though any quality woven one will do. W-roll then go back and finish roll in one direction.
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>>2103644
thanks. What did you use for primer? How many layers? One of the formica areas is actually wall, are you saying it totally won't work to paint it onto a vertical surface? It will drip? Any tips for dealing with the drippy edges?

>>2103684
thank you
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>>2103698
I just used stone coat on the counters in my travel trailer. It was pretty easy to work with. I was lazy with the plastic prep covering the cabinets and had to clean up a few drips off the floor, but it popped off pretty easily when it was semi cured. If I did it again, I would take the time to prep with plastic sheeting properly, mix extra so I could flow more over the edges to get an even coat on the vertical parts, and mottle the white paint with some flecks of something contrasting so the inevitable little hairs and dust particles that stick to the paint would not be forever entombed and visible underneath the clear coat. I trimmed the bottom lip with painters tape and pulled it off around 6 hours after pouring when it was tacky but nor hard yet.
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>>2103585
It’s a picture of a sheep I took from my 35 ft vessel. But I don’t have countertops since it’s usually all hands on deck if you know what I mean.
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>>2104252
kek
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>>2103698
When you add detail to make it look like granite or stone and then do that on a surface that has to fight gravity it will run. What would look like a crack on a flat surface stretches out.
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>>2103161
We had our counters done by a company, whatever you do don't try to do some fancy ass gay pattern otherwise you'll be sorry. The person that did ours was some 'artsy' tattooed sumbitch that went a little overboard. Basically any kind of 'veining' just comes out like shit, I think you can do a little feathered marble texture and get pretty good results with this epoxy shit.

For what we were trying to accomplish it kinda worked (kitchen countertops were painted by the PO, shittily and it was starting to peel in places)

The basic process went like
clean off the paint (paint thinner and scrape)
tape and plastic that whole bitch (it will drip and get everywhere, make sure your boat is sitting as level as you can get it before doing this)
sand and grind down the edges to chamfer them
paint with some sort of white paint/primer
do a clear pour to start
some white/grey epoxy was added and feathered out for that 'marble' look
let it dry, clearcoat after 24 hours

this is what it looked like before she 'styled' it, wish we just stopped here
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>>2103698
drippy edges you'd want to keep on top of during the drying process, right after the pour. you basically just go through and use your finger to wipe em off and get epoxy underneath the edge.
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>>2104378
Thanks. Good info. I don't want to do any marble texture at all, just plain white. It might not hide dirt, and might show pubes that land in it while drying, but I really think stone (real or fake) looks like ass on boats.
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>>2104476
Probably just clean and paint the counters white, then do a clear coat of epoxy on that sumbich. Don't forget to use a torch to get rid of any air bubbles



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