My 1 0clamp soldering iron broke down last weekend (I know right??), it's the transparent design with the kinky yellow accents and the integrated adjustment wheel. After taking it apart and putting it back together, hoping that it healed itself, I just got a new 15 clamp soldering "station" I always hated the light stand on Soldie1 and the heavy gauge wire made it really easy to tip it. Whenever I considered weighting the stand down, I couldn't find anything and the prospect of burning down the block wasn't deterring enough for my lead damaged adh... uuuh brain something something to stay invested enough to make something heavy.So now I got the station design. I noticed that to my surprise it came with a bunch of crap like replacement tips and wire and this cigar cutter shaped push button aluminium tube. Thing. Can anybody tell me what the hell it is and what it does? Also what tip is best tip? Also is there any reason to get a decent unit? I briefly looked into used units, but quickly gave up (the adhd and lead poisoning)I'm self taught and don't know anything but my gigs got better when I started preparing my soldering jobs and the pursuit to do things propper made me use the soldering iron over crimps more often lately (like car related)
unfuck your translate app broalso that's a little desoldering pumpthey're kinda shit but better than nothing
>>2103155I can't even decipher your post, but I can tell you that you're NGMI with lead free solder. are you trolling or drunkposting?
- The thing circled in your picture is a solder sucker, it's designed to remove solder. Look up a youtube video. - Yes good soldering irons are worth it. - Which tip to use depends on what you're soldering. Big wires, things with a lot of thermal mass, or things that need to be heated fast to avoid damage use a larger tip. For small precise things use a smaller tip. - you mentioned crimps. Crimps (applied properly with a real crimp tool not crushed with pliers!!) are often actually better than solder for applications with moisture or vibration. Like marine or automotive wiring. Solder can get brittle, corroded, and fatigue cracked more easily than crimps. unfuck your post, you did not deserve an answer this helpful
I bought one of these little bluetooth radio kits to learn as my first ever experience with soldering. What am I supposed to do here? Do I just prep the rightmost connector with a bit of solder, put the chip on and dump solder on all the connectors? Do I prep all the connectors on the pcb?
>>2103163>>2103170Bitch I may have had a little strokepost there, but it's impossible to not understand if your IQ isn't like 1, dude like how retarded do you have to be to not be able to extract the information from it mate??
Wut temp do you goys use? I have a Playskool 888 soldering iron, using 60/40 leaded solder, that blue and white brand they sell everywhere, assuming I’m doing like 14AWG-20AWG to boards and switches and other wires, is there a good temp? I think I go too hot sometimes.
>>2103155Thing in the picture is solder pump, mostly useless unless you want to desolder some old through hole shit without damaging it or using 10 cm of wick.There is no "best tip" they are all situational, but usually some C type for general, sharp and pointy for 0402 smd and K type for big connectors and etc.As for soldering iron its all about the tip, don't cheap out on it. More power or precise temp regulation is situational most of the time.Chink t12 soldering irons are 100% worth it and I would prefer one over oldschool 200$ "western" soldering station
>>2103234It really depends on the tips you're using, but for me I crank that bitch up to max and do all of my temp control with my hands/eyes. If im working on a particularly shitty board and/or have a lot of tiny pads to solder then I might turn it down if I can't just cheat with fluxing everything. Though im also a faggot who literally grew up soldering PCBs so for me waiting for components to heat up is my biggest annoyance. And letting a part get too hot is just a mistake I don't make 99% of the time. Really with temp you only have to worry about burning off pads, and burning up your irons tip especially if its very fine/small. When soldering wires together or connectors onto wires I don't think there is such thing as too much heat.
>>2103191Put a dab on the right connector. Set it in place and heat the hole in the new board. It should get hot enough to melt the solder after a second and it will sink into place. Then make sure its positioned correctly with the iron still heating it. When its correctly positioned let it cool down then solder the opposite side to hold it down. Then fill up the others. Squirt some flux on them all and drag across them to make them pretty and uniform.
>>2103380Your instructions really helped, I didn't get that it was to hold it in place. Initially. I also didn't understand that the connection is made flowing over the side of the chip. I was confused because I thought it had to go in the hole and connect like that which seemed illogical. Thanks for the help!
>>2103227if you're going to ask for help you could at least try to produce something readable.
>>2104863I agree the edge of board soldering is weird. It is really popular with drone boards.I guess the benefits are it's cheap, and reasonable to work with. You can also wrap a big wire around it like it's an old school soldering post.