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Garbage In, Garbage Out Edition
Old thread: >>2097381
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Prusa Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.
>>
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Did any of you guys happen to grab the plans for the Medusa by Cultivate3D when they were available? They were online in 2020 but it seems like the creator took them down. So much for "open source"...
https://cultivate3d.com/medusa-multi-material-printing/
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4441387/
>>
>>2099799
Here it is in action. Notice the PTFE rods, the nozzle that isn't in use is blocked by this so no oozing. Also, there is a neutral position where neither nozzle is active but this puts a microswitch in position to be used as a probe. Pretty cool.
>>
Why in hell would you make a new thread before the old one reaches page 10? Now we have THREE threads.
>>
Any diagnosis for shitty prints like this? Not necessarily the blobs, but just shitty, uneven layer lines throughout
>>
>>2099833
Usually too hot temperature or insufficient cooling, or overextrusion
>>
Are carbon based filament safe to use?
>>
>CR Touch is a 3D printer platform leveling solution developed independently by Creality 3D Institute based on hundreds of millions of user data used by creators
>>
>>2099833
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/blobs-and-zits/
>>
Fuck
At least I caught it before it broke during a print. I never thought I would need these clamps but I can't even pry it apart. Hopefully the belt will last long enough to print a replacement.
>>
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BTT is offering 50% money back if you apply the dirty fix on your SKR 2.
>>
>>2099957
link https://docs.google.com/document/d/1IeKgfE2WIDjqH1fx5Yg7n1FOHVwhDFmDlZ-7QMlOEV0/edit?fbclid=IwAR2C08blcj-n2OIn2bAAzp0HBsOXjyxAex5Mft9HWQ30yx3eu4dJ4VlRkX8
>>
>>2099957
>>2099958
That's pretty funny that the chinked got chinked lol. How does the saying go?
>一分钱一分货
Engineering deviation my ass. I bet they tried to cheap out on the part they needed and here we are.
It would be interesting to see the faulty MOSFET specs compared to the correct one.
>>
>>2099696
>>2099782
>>2099699
In Cura, you can enable Ironing under the experimental options. But, you can only iron every layer through manual gcode editing with Cura. Otherwise, it will only iron the top layer.
>pic related, some guys experiment with manual ironing every layer gcode some time before it was added to slic3r
>>
>>2099957
wew. isn't it just desoldering some mosfet legs?
>>
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>>2099957
Can I buy a discounted SKR2 and perform the fix myself? I'd change over to
>muh silent stepping
for $20 and a bit of flux in my nostrils.
>>
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>>2099975
I wonder this too. If it's just a matter of a mosfet, fuckit, I've got several in random bins I promise myself to organize every weekend. Dead bug looks terrible but dammit, it works and is package agnostic.
>>
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>>2099978
Damn that is pretty fucking nice. I am purposely leaving the hexagram infill because I want it visible, so I'm not sure if ironing would be better or worse, but in the future I might have to try this setting out for totally clear objects. On the other hand for small clear objects, SLA works really well with a bit of polish and clear coat. This had a hollow inside and the inside isn't cleared, but a thin solid print in transparent resin would be very nice.

>>2099866
I am torn on the protopasta filaments. They are super fucking nice and print perfectly. If you don't want to paint or anything and want a super nice finish they are borderline perfect. The multitone ones cover layer lines great and a bit of sanding and clear coat would make them look like solid cast items.

The price however... is crazy fucking high. I am reprinting the shell for this nerf gun, and split the front and back half into different colors since the rolls are only 500g, and if I have a failed print or something I won't have enough filament. On the other hand I've never had a clog or failure from this filament, even the fiber filled stuff.
>>
>>2099781
is there an easy way to model the negative of a given screw's thread (as in, model something that once printed can fit the screw) or it's all guessing/referencing/trial and error?
>>
>>2100065
Most thread profiles can't be printed accurately enough to accept a screw. So even if you were to put them in the model you would still need to chase the printed threads with a tap.
And for printed threads to work okay your printer has to be dialed in REALLY WELL, the threads have to be pretty coarse, and the thread fit has to be quite sloppy.
>>
>>2099808
>>2099799
god damn that gets my dick hard. hopefully some internet hoarder got them, but I mean it's a simple concept, it shouldn't be hard to reproduce.
>>
Do you think it's a good idea to 3d print a 3d printer? At least the frame and some other support. What material would you use?
I already have two mobos and PSU
>>
>>2100118
In theory its fine, but the question becomes how well calibrated is the first printer? How square can you make the new one? How sturdy and stable will it be over all aluminum extrusions? How much will all the filament, parts and time cost compared to just buying a new or using aluminum?
>>
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>>2100110
This one is by Proper Printing. He actually won Creality's contest with the entry. It doesn't use a servo but is a similar concept.
https://properprinting.pro/product/dual-extrusion-system-for-creality-printers-aka-the-rocker/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBB5WuhNhWk
>>
>>2100118
I mean, that's the whole point of RepRap but even still, it seems like the vast majority of them use pre-made structural components like aluminum extrusions, metal pipes, or even wood for the frame. I can't remember the name of it, but there was a RepRap model that was designed to print the frame, too. The plastic frame didn't last very long if I remember correctly. It's from a long time ago, but you can find it on the models page of the RepRap wiki.
>>
>>2100143
>just smack that printer on the gantry to change filaments.
I fucking love it.
>>
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Proper Printing also designed this. It's a quick change X carriage. One unique thing about it is that it incorporates a microswitch so your nozzle becomes a probe. On the page for it, he notes that it hasn't gone through much testing so he's not sure if it damages the nozzle or not.
https://properprinting.pro/product/quick-tool-change-with-z-homing/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yjT9ZjxFFE&feature=emb_title
>>
>>2100143
ah, yeah that's actually the first one I saw. and what better showcase than the glow frog, fucking tits. honestly that's the first printer mod I've ever wanted to actually do.
>>
>>2100147
>RepRap model that was designed to print the frame, too
It was the idiotic one made with servo motors that I forget what it's called. It was like an upside down delta. And then there was Snappy, also, utterly retarded given that rods can be used to much greater effect with 3d printed (manifolds?) to join them into a proper frame.
>>
>>2100167
didn't an anon on here post one of those? I thought he'd designed it, LOL.
>>
>>2099975
The designed it with one, but couldnt get enough stock for production, so just kinda threw another random one in their, and shipped it without testing

every recent BTT board has had issues with either the thermistor circuit, power delivery, or their protection circuit.

Last good board they made was the skr 1.3
>>
i could probably make a shitty model of this, but this seems like a good idea that could be replicated easily by someone with more than five brain cells i bet
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/snactiv/snactiv
>>
>>2100173
>It was the idiotic one made with servo motors that I forget what it's called.
The simpson.
Just take a look at this beauty.
>>
>>2100249
>41K USD.
>For a set of practice chopsticks with finger grooves.
I need to start throwing shit at the wall, even the most retarded bull might just stick in unexpected ways.
>>
>>2100249
>>
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The protopasta filaments are still not the most friendly heat treating wise. They recommend about 225*F for 5-10m. This was only 200 for 10, and was on a preheated bamboo board, and i turned off the heat before putting the objects in. Still got pretty bad warping. Printing objects at an angle, or much sturdier more solid stuff would likely help alot, but also ruin smooth bed surfaces if angling

I also note that the top layer gets a bit of a white clouding from the heating. It can be rubbed off though. Overall it seems to make no real difference in transparency, so for anything other than part strength and heat resistance the heat treatment seems a waste of time
>>
>>2100327
>heat treating at all
but why
>>
>>2100332
Mostly just to try it out and see if it effects the transparency of the red parts. They are only like 12g a piece, and even warped it won't effect their placement much
>>
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>>2100177
Proper Printing is too cool for /3dpg/
>>
>>2100192
Do you know if there are any particular issues wihh the GTR board?
>>
I have a Mega Zero motherboard and power supply, could I make an upgraded version of the printer from scratch? Like similar to the original but slightly bigger, maybe even faster with stuff I can find on Aliexpress?
>>
>>2100305
Honestly I want one of those. Its wonderful.
>>
>>2100408
You certainly could... You would need to get the same size aluminum extrusions just longer. I guess you wouldn't need the exact same but it would probably be easiest. The hardest part will be cutting, drilling, and tapping the aluminum. Cutting is easy enough with the right saw, but drilling and tapping is going to require a drill press. Well you could probably do it by hand but you want those to be perfectly straight.
There are probably some type of connectors you could use to attach the aluminum extrusions together with instead. I'd check Openbuilds and see what they have to give you some ideas. There are other places you could source the aluminum from. Misumi will cut, drill, and tap if you order from them but you would have to provide exact plans to them for that.
The belts, rollers, etc. are easy enough to come by. Openbuilds again, Amazon or Aliexpress.
Ender 3 has the Ender Extender kit, maybe there is one for your printer.
>>
>>2100428
Thanks, yeah for sure a drill press is required
>>
>Level the bed through BLTouch
>Bed leveling messes up part way through
>Spend all afternoon fiddling with wires and the pin adjustment
>Print some bed leveling test after leveling manually
>Try the ABL
>It works
>Set Z offset
>Try leveling
>Messes up again
>Set Z offset
>Save to EPROM by leaving the menu
>Reboot printer
>Level bed
>ABL works like a charm only with this bullshit fix
I swear to fuck the Ender 6 is a haunted machine
But it works and I have finally got the extruder relocation and Capricorn in. Pic is a little old, I have extended the input Bowden guide and the cable tube is no longer held on by double sided tape.
>>
Hey all, just a head's up for anyone who has one near by, but "Black Fridays" stores usually have PLA or ABS filament. So far I've found 3 hatchbox 1kg spools (PLA, ABS, and Performance PLA) and 1 spool of Amolen glow-in-dark PLA. The Hatchbox spools are still vacuum sealed. The Amolen had a puncture but I chanced it anyway. It's become brittle so I may try to dehydrate it. Still I got each for only $8 a spool. I know Black Friday's are kinda limited geographically so see if there are any stores like (Amazon/bigbox returns resellers) it near you.
>>
God damn. FreeCAD is really difficult.
>>
>>2100521
its not difficult its just grueling. very brute force
>>
I know you cant really calibrate digital calipers (at least not mine), so what is something common of consistent size that I can check mine with? I was thinking coin but those might wear down randomly and I don't think I have a brand new perfect coin anywhere.
>>
>>2100540
Why would you need to?
As long as you're measuring everything with the same calipers, it doesn't really matter.
Smooth rods are pretty accurate, or you could measure something with a micrometer to check them
>>
>>2100547
Well I have two and I wanted to see which set was more accurate. I just realized I could use some pins from my rekeying kit, they are in 3/1000 inch increments. One set of calipers is Husky branded and the other are just some no name calipers from China.
>>
>bed mesh keeps timing out because the controller reports "Probe triggered prior to movement"
>turns out there's an intermittent open in the drag chain cable that occurs just at the right spot where the probe wants to search
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH
About to throw this printer off the fucking roof, but at least it might explain why I've been crashing the nozzle into the bed 50% of the time
>>
>>2099799
>>2099808
So I contacted the company through their website about the missing plans and they said something like "We are too busy shipping to have the plans out right now but they will be soon!"... I'm not sure about the legality of having something open source like that and then removing the source but it sounds like bullshit to me.
You can get the Medusa on one of their printers, the cheapest being about $2.5k "naked". You can also order the Medusa with no hotends for about $350 (they recommend genuine Mosquitoes for the hotends).
>pic related, elevator naked (1000mmx660mmx500mm build volume)
>>
>>2100587
This becomes another question of who wants to wait for something with that big of a build volume to fail. Still cool, but theres a cutoff for when FDM becomes pointless
>>
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>>2100547
>https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/snactiv/snactiv
>>
>>2100522
It can do incredible things that other CAD packages won't even let you try.
90% of the time, it will explode on the launchpad and destroy the entire town.
but that 10% when it clears the tower, my God, it's glorious.
>>
>>2100327
>Still got pretty bad warping.
Stress relieve them for a while at close to the glass transition temperature before turning up the heat for annealing.
>>
>>2100667
You can also try packing them in salt for the annealing process. Get a couple of cheap steamer trays, cover the parts with salt, vibrate or pack it down, the salt will hold the shape pretty tight. You can even clamp a lid on if it's a really persistent warp that can overpower the weight. And when it's done annealing, any salt that's stuck will wash right off. Then you can reuse the rest.
>>
>>2100662
>It can do incredible things that other CAD packages won't even let you try.
Like what?
>>
>>2100668
[downside is it takes a lot longer to heat up. Powdered salt is a fricking good insulator]
>>
>>2100669
You know not the terrifying power of going Full Minkowski.
>>
>>2100671
So... it can model Relativisic warping of time and space?
>>
>>2100673
And deal with solid sections that Just Barely Touch rather than requiring arbitrary overlap.
>>
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I 3d modeled a scale version of an end table im building out of steel tube and wood cause i felt like it. gonna try to print it with the stupid overhangs
>>
>>2100249
>>2100311
>>2100318
>$20 USD
>for a cheap piece of injection-molded plastic
for fuck's sake, consumerism sucks. That thing should be a fiver at most.

I'm pretty sure that I saw the concept on Reddit like a month ago, even. I can't believe they're turning it into a real product.
>>
>>2100677
those are some interesting angles lol
>>
>>2100249
>>>911 backers
>>
>>2100327
>turned off the heat before putting the objects in
Aren't you supposed to slowly heat-treat things like that at starting at room temperature so it evenly heats?
>>
are abs fumes actually dangerous to inhale or are they just smelly
>>
>>2100730
Hot ABS emits styrene, which is an irritant but not an acute toxicity risk. It is suspected to be a carcinogen, though. With the ambiguous state of information about it, it wouldn't be a strong carcinogen (lots of things have subtle effects), but it's probably best avoided.
>>
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Hello r/functionalprints, what do you think?
>>
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>printing with new dual-fan hotend assembly
>shit's cash for a while
>spool up print and let it ride after seeing it off
>come back to clogged nozzle
>cannot clear it for shit
>can't push or pull PLA, even at high temp
>like a dick stuck in a cheerio
>eventually pull the PTFE liner
>it fucking breaks off in the hotend
>not coming out
Fuck this shit, getting a microswiss and using capricorn this time. Just when I get everything up and running smooth it shits the bed.
>>
Are there any good design references for modeling devices that use springs? Im designing a device with a free floating component that will compress repeatedly compress springs by 2mm. But all my attempts are horribly inelegant. Really any design references in general for plastic mechanisms would be great.
>>
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>>2100671
>Full Minkowski
>>
>>2100734
this is why you heat up the hot end to 250+ when working on it
>>
>>2100733
>r/functionalprints
r/kysyourself
>>
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>>2100410
It's mesmerizing to watch, but dammit it just comes across as such a royal pain in the ass.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrn3XtTlJhU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TezuaR0LUQQ
>>
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>>2100852
look for like chip clips or clips.

also you're basically not making a coil spring but a single lever spring so a Z might be appropriate. the model material and orientation of print matter A LOT so it's really hard to help without knowing exactly what you're doing. it probably won't look like what you imagine right now.
>>
>>2100878
seems like an unnecessarily complex delta. calibrating must be a fucking bitch.
>>
>>2100885
>he needs to calibrate his 3D printer
Cartesian gang lols at your life.
>>
>>2100852
ABS is a must for any plastic springs that aren't coil springs. PLA becomes too compliant over time
>>
>>2100876
Downvoted
>>
I'm thinking about the fucking Ender 3 because:
1. it's cheap
2. I would place it in a furniture that I can easily convert into an enclosure, the declared external dimensions are just right
Now the question is: are the dimensions given by the specs right? I have barely half an inch of tolerance
>>
>>2100686
transhumanism was a mistake

>>2100734
>PTFE liner
lenny.txt
t.all metal gang gang

>>2100906
great if you like printers but hate material
>>
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how big is your space?
>>
>>2100906
oops >>2100970
dont want to rob you of your (you)
>>
>>2100667
>>2100707
The actual protopasta heat treating stuff has nothing I see about preheating or gentle time ramp. At the end of the day it probably mostly just matters what the object is and how sturdy the design is against warping.
>>
>>2100970
I have a constraint of 45cm width... I read those numbers but I wanted some confirmation in case it's propaganda numbers.
Like it's a measurement of the base or it takes into account the protrusion of the Y axis mechanism (the part with the QR code on it)?
>>
>>2100991
the footprint includes the protrusions
thats a pretty tight spot though gonna be a real pain in the ass to work on it
some people use an ikea lack table as an enclosure, that space is 21 5/8" square minus the legs but gives you enough space to work on it
>>
>>2101012
Nice enclosure, If you live in the US, where did you source your plexi from?
>>
>>2101013
thats just something from thingiverse
if i was to buy plexiglass, id go to tap plastics. really cool store, but i think they only have a couple of stores here in the pnw. i know home depot has sheets of lexan but i dont know the sizes offhand
i thought ikea was a swedish thing
>>
What do you guys think the most likely issue is if most of the time I try to print with Octoprint, the beginning swipe line prints fine and then the extruder motor just turns off completely until printer restart? No issues at all printing from SD card. I'm completely stumped by this, this is the first issue I've had that I couldn't fix myself in a day or find a fix online, I can't even find an instance of the same problem that doesn't involve plugins I'm not using.
>>
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>>2100882
>single lever sprint
NTA but all Google is giving me is pictures of faucets and exactly one of pic related, is this it?
>>
>Artillery Sidewinder seemed to be working okay after changing thermistor and tuning PID and redoing bed leveling and all
>Print of 4 parts has one become spaghetti
>After that the BLtouch keeps erroring and wont home Z
>But the probe goes up and down and seems to work fine
>Change pin
>Still doesnt work
>Replace artillery ribbon cable
>Still won't work
This printer has been a fucking nightmare. Its awesome when it works, but it doesn't want to. Meanwhile the Cr10 has done fine even printing ninja filaments.
>>
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>>2101034
Not sure if you could make it out of plastic but lever tumblers generally just have one flat spring. Probably isnt helpful...
>>
What program beside fusion360 is there to make parts? I want to model some random shit I am thinking off but Fusion360 is kind of a huge fucking mess. I understand blender but not Fusion
>>
>>2101048
TinkerCad is pretty easy to dick around in, I'm not sure how complicated of a part you can make with it but its pretty easy to use. Much more intuitive than Fusion 360.
>>
>>2101048
openScad, if you're comfortable modeling by numbers, or have any coding experience
>>
>>2101012
those are 3 Lack coffee tables stacked right?
>>
>>2101013
your favorite local plastics service dude, probably not specifically a sign maker but you may have a general fabricator type somewhere near you who will CNC cut pieces to your print

>>2101028
you're the anon that succeeds when you manually command extrusion, right?
post gcode on pastebin, up to the end of the first layer
>>
>>2101048
Onshape is free
>>
>>2101048
FreeCad.
It's based on openSCAD, I tried it today and seems pretty awesome. Not the simplest around tho.
>>
>>2101048
>>2101067
seconding onshape. Very fockin nice.

You could also join EAA and get a solidworks license. Pirating solidworks or inventor or creo are also options.
>>
With the SKR boards, does the jumper config of an unused driver slot matter?
>>
>>2101048
windows 3d builder
>>
>>2101042
>The issue was the Z min probe pin on the mobo
So the motherboard on the artillery is in the base, so it doesn't have an outside control box in the way. Presumably the vibration was causing the pin to come loose. Took it apart, checked the pin and it was still connected but had some give. Shoved it back in and hotglued it up. Now the bltouch works again.
>>
>>2101063
yeah im pretty sure
theres a lot of these around but the picture is from here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4141814
>>
>>2101080
i dont think it would but i would probably just mimic the other ones just to be on the safe side and also prepare for the future for when the slot gets a driver
>>
>>2101048
you can model and export with sketchup. used to use it a lot back in the day so I'm most familiar with it.
>>
>>2101097
Yeah OK, just making sure it doesn't need to be in some specific condition. Thanks.
>>
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One of the very final parts for the printer I'm building, stuck (presumably) at customs for two weeks now.
>>
>>2101106
go to hardware store and buy 4 machine screws and nuts you can get rubber washers to stack too skip the springs
>>
>>2101109
Tomorrow I get my Pi to accompany the SKR, then I can start testing the movement. Hopefully in the coming week the springs will get here.
>>
>>2101034
Anon whats this idea you had in mind using free floating thing?
>>
>>2099781
autocad or solidworks?
>>
>>2101064
Here we go. Is there anything retarded that stands out immediately? This code worked perfectly from the SD card, but not Octoprint.

https://pastebin.com/G6U9Cn7Z
>>
>>2101135
So I made a sacrifice and touched all the heatsinks for the stepper drivers, and the extruder one is wildly hot while the others are fine. Could this be the issue? I'm pointing a USB fan at the board right now as a test during a print.
>>
>>2101118
Like I said,
>NTA
but I was curious what single lever springs were anyway, >>2100852 is the one you want
>>
>>2101068
>It's based on openSCAD
no, the vast majority of the system is based on OpenInventor. but it does have an OpenSCAD module

>>2101135
nothing retarded. if it works from the SD card it's because the print server is fucking you over. check octoprint's serial setup, maybe you can fix some buffering or reconfigure a higher bit rate than 115200bps. 500kbps can be good
did you try the other stuff suggested? lowering print resolution or speed, trying a different print server

>>2101139
>and the extruder one is wildly hot while the others are fine
yeah, that's bad
you should check your extruder motor current setting (if your board has it) and check the wiring to the extruder motor (unplugged at both ends) for shorts and opens using a continuity tester
>>
>>2101048
Solidworks. Shits so polished and easy to use
>>
>>2101220
Unplugging and replugging all the extruder wires was actually one of my early steps. After pointing a USB powered CPU fan at the main board (it's sitting out in the open awaiting another mod soon), the extruder's driver's heatsink is no longer painful to the touch. If overheating was the issue, this isn't too bad anymore since my electronics case will have a big-ass Noctua fan in it when I'm done. Just in case though, I'll take a look into how to modify the current going to extruder motor.

As for Octoprint, I'll play around with the serial settings in the printer's sourcecode and recompile and flash the firmware. I didn't actually know you could play with the buffer and bitrate onboard the printer. Would changing just BUFSIZE in config_adv.h and BAUDRATE in config.h do the trick, or is it a bit deeper than that?
>>
>>2101231
that should be enough. you could also experiment with flow control, but I had poor results when I did
I eventually solved the USB-to-UART chip problems by getting a 32bit board without one. native USB wins every time
pay attention to heatsinking your drivers. if you have any rasPi heatsinks around, the smaller ones would help
>>
>>2101223
is there any competent 3d cad software not made by autodesk?
>>
>>2101238
Yes. Solidworks.
>>
>>2101067
>want to make some parts for my action figures
>onshape is free but works with the US's autistic copyright laws
At least FreeCAD is also free. Take that.

pls helb
>>
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>2hr30 minute print
>dicking around with settings
>make everything thicc to reduce time
>get it down to 1hr15min
>ironing sounds cool
>enable that shit
>hit print
>come back hour and a half later
>2 hours remaining print time
>mfw should have paid attention
>>
>>2101262
>action figures
use blender
>>
>>2101233
The factory driver heatsinks seem okay as long as I have a big fan directly over them, which I will constantly soon. I still doubt it's overheating though, since the printer worked flawlessly for months. It did have a quick stint in a 45 Celsius enclosure though, but I'm not sure that'd do this type of damage before having thermal safety measures tripped.
>>
>>2101265
Is it fine to use Blender? I need the parts to be as exact as possible since I'll be using them to replace parts on some figures. I have to be precise.
>>
>>2101017
Ikea is in the US, too. It just came to the midwest part im at.
>>
Does anyone know if you can make ideaMaker show estimated move times like in Cura? I tried searching online but couldn't find anything so I'm thinking not but maybe one of you guys know.
>>
>>2101268
Blender is as precise as you make it. There's no "fuck up random dimensions on anon's model" setting on non-CAD programs, only people who don't check the model.
>>
>>2101268
You can kinda hybrid it, by making the parts you want to sculpt in blender, then importing the resulting model into CAD and adding the precision features there. I guarantee the workflow's gonna be awkward, though.
>>
>>2101268
Just use the actual scaler in blender. Swap from blender units to metric in program and do all your work in ortho view.
>>
I have a strange issue that I noticed today during a print.
So if I have a long quick travel move, it sounds like there is some terrible grinding sound coming from my hotend carriage. After the print, I tightened everything up except for the belt. In OctoPrint, I made a control to input feedrate for G1 and then I make it move from X1 to X249 and back.
I found that if feedrate is between 7100 and 9500, the sound is there. I can actually see the belt vibrating, I'm guessing that is where the sound is coming from, the belt is vibrating and hitting the aluminium or just making the sound on its own.
What the hell can I do about this? Do I just need to tighten my belt? Or maybe just replace it?
>>
Do you use filament dusters? I got a cheap set to try adding to my printers since it can potentially help grab some dust or hairs that could end up in the extruder, but the noise is fucking irritating. The filament is just constantly scrapping against a sponge so its a light screeching off and on, and in theory the sponge degrading from it could add more dust than it prevents
>>
>>2101262
>>onshape is free but works with the US's autistic copyright laws
Their free license just means that everything you produce with the free version is under a non-commercial license (just shy of public domain).
>>
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>>2101344
Here, I made a video.
The first movement is just through the regular OctoPrint controls. I move it from X0 to X200 and back.
The second movement is with the custom control with a feedrate of 7100. You can clearly see the belt vibrating.
>>
>>2099978
What are you talking about? Current version of Cura irons every surface layer unless you check "Only iron highest layer." It isn't even under experimental anymore, it's under Shell.

It's annoying since it irons the bottom surface on the clip holes for dungeon tiles, which throws off the tolerances for the clips.
>>
>>2101354
Why not just box the filament and feed it through a tube all the way? Can't get dust on the filament if it has a dust cover on it.
>>
>>2101360
Does it transfer to the print?

Mine does that too and i dont see anything on the prints.
The mass of the vibrating belt is magnitudes smaller than the mass of the hotend and the motor so there shouldn't be any unwanted movements caused by the vibration
>>
>>2101432
>Current version of Cura irons every surface layer
I mean iron literally every single layer, not just the visible ones.
>>
>>2101480
Thats the thing, I'm only going that fast during travel speeds. F7000 is about 120 mm/s and I'm printing at default speeds. I haven't really tried to go fast yet.
>>
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>cura fuzzy skin doesnt effect horizontal surfaces
>prusa slicer fuzzy skin doesnt effect horizontal surfaces
>ideamaker texture doesnt effect horizontal surfaces
Well, thats really disappointing. So if you want to put a skin or texture on something like a phone case you can either take the chance and print it vertically or put it at some stupid angle like 45 and hope your layers are hidden by the skin or texture. I might test the angle printing one of these days unless someone else has but I'd just be doing it to satisfy my own curiosity.
The fuzzy skin in Slic3r PE is pretty much a copy of what is in Cura, according to the Github. It's in 2.4 Alpha branch. Never tried to compile stuff before and it only took me 4 hours to figure it out.
>pic related some rock texture
>>
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>>2101499
The actual texture. Maybe it would look better with the right combination of settings, I'm not sure. There are probably some good examples of texturing out there.
>>
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>>2101500
>>
>>2101503
>>
>>2101505
Last one, these actually look OK
https://www.ideamaker.io/blogDetail.html?id=62&utm_source=ideamaker&utm_medium=referral&utm_content=4.1.1.5050
>>
>>2099781
Hello, I'm in need for two plastic pieces that recently broke and that are components of my oven. Since they cannot be bought from the producer anymore I thought about getting them 3D printed (considering how I don't have the money for a 3D printer). So I wanted to ask if there were any good and reliable 3D printing companies preferibly in Europe that I could send the CAD model to and get it printed fairly cheaply. The plastic must endure at least 250°C since that's the maximum temperature reached by the oven. The two pieces have to be resistant and hard too because they are used to keep a glass panel tight.
Additionally... I've never dealt with 3D modelling and CAD software so I'd like to know if it won't be that hard to learn about it myself or if I have to pay someone else to do the model for me. Thank you.
>>
>set printer to 200 c, walk away
>few hours later, alarm goes off
>nozzle temp too low

I've heard of thermal cut off, but what causes the temperature to drop suddenly enough to fuck up the print?
>>
>>2101529
restarted the same gcode and it did the same thing at the same exact spot in the print
>>
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My prints are really rough but it turns out 3d modeling is fun
>>
>>2101529
Intermittent connection on the thermistor
>>
>>2101529
I've had the print fans cool the hotend sufficiently to trigger the thermal alarm before.
>>
>>2101621
how the fuck does that happen
>>
>>2101572
maybe a gcode problem then
>>
>>2101529
pushing too much material, blowing on the nozzle too hard, usual electrical shit

>>2101582
espresso furniture is the highest form of 3D printing
>>
>>2101582
idk about really rough but it definitely could be better. Your part either warped or lifted off the bed at the end of the hook and thats why the top infill pattern is inconsistent. And an even smaller layer height will make the curved geometry look hella flush and smooth instead of looking like a topographical map
>>
>>2101529
Try replacing the thermistor with a better one, and tuning PID. I was having a similar issue and I think it was because of the thin cables on the crappy ones being loose. You can get screw in ones with braided cables to protect them from bending issue and such for like 10-15 bucks.
>>
>>2101670
The entire thing was printed on a bed of supports, so idk if lifting or warping could have happened. And yes, I need to start printing at sub 0.2mm layer height but I didn't expect that one to turn right first try. Top infil is shit regardless of where it is desu, I suspect my bed leveling isn't great, maybe too high?
>>
Is a magnet sheet bellow spring steel necessary? I have been having good adhesion using the glass textured beds with hairspray, but had bought a spring sheet to mess with. I don't really want to apply the magnet sheet and have to deal with removing it later, but just using clips to hold it down seems to lead to alot of warping and an uneven surface as it bends around the center
>>
>>2101632
that really just means you need a better PID tune for hot end temp control
>>
>>2101729
You'll find most decent fans on printers can drop the hotend temp by 10°C on full blast, before the heater can catch up with all the thermal weight, even if it's full on all the time. It's rather a slicing issue IMO, just turn the fan down.
>>
>pc drive is acting funny and won't let me swap files around
>corrupted 3d files
>nukes my zips i hadn't got a chance to print yet
>most of them guns
>can't find any gun shit any where anymore
>>
>>2101729
>>2101632
Also check your ducting; I had a similar issue with a dual blower setup trying to max out volcano hotend speeds. The solution was to lower and redirect the output of the fans by printing new ducts; I had too much flow directed at the upper part of the nozzle/heater block.
>>
>>2101733
thegatalog - a site dedicated to the hosting of those stl's, as far as I know, still exists/works. Deterrence-Dispensed on lbry should get you where you need to go, too - comments and the like, helping folks get what they need.
>>
>>2101707
could be a little too high, look more at how/where the top infill is uneven, rather than the whole surface finish. Printing entirely on supports IMO is a bad idea as supports are printed in the quickest shittiest way for ease of removal and speed of printing, alternate design and/or seriously beefing up your supports could help with warpage.

Also you may find that surface finish will be adequate with a thinner layer and no other changes. Typically since much less plastic is being extruded in a thinner layer, there is less visible deformation that can actually occur. I definitely find that surface finish is much more consistent printing at 25% nozzle size layer height instead of 50%
>>
>>2101737
>Deterrence-Dispensed on lbry
that's the first place i looked. said everything was gone. which i thought was strange. i could very well just be retarded.
>>
>>2101739
Nothing else made sense desu, I thing I had to print the thing on stilts. Maybe i'll try again with a lower height, I have other shit I need to print right now however
>>
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>>2101760
If from a purely manufacturing standpoint you want to make it easier, why not just have a flat bottom for what you have in the view?
>>
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>>2101773
It's not as pretty, and I need it to be relatively thin so the horns can fit between the base of the cup and the "V"
>>
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This lil fella lost some teeth and cables and horns. Imprinted him upright using tree supports and fan at 60%. Using and ender 3 modified for direct drive and a 5015 fan.
What are some things I can take into account to get better results next time?
>>
>>2101781
Slice him in half and glue the halves together.
I know it's more work but I find this gives the best results.
>>
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>>2101785
I've tried this in the past but the two halves leave a VERY apparent seam, what did I do wrong?
>>
>>2101796
>what did I do wrong?
First layer.
Your bed needs to be right in that sweet spot, a tad bit lower or higher and you'll get that ugly line.
>>
>>2101781
all of those little details at the bottom will come out better if you print it upside down
>>
>>2101828
How about on his back? I really don't want droopy horns and if I print him on his back slightly tilted down the teeth are at an angle and not straight
>>
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Hey faguettes, spamanon here! Missed me?
I moved (unfortunately still in my thirdworld shithole riding the right slope of the Laffer curve) and my Ender 3 survived. I started by printing some shit for family and a keyhole guard for myself. It looks like shit, but it helps me get back on track on printing.
>>
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>>2101838
Of course I absolutely _had_ to design it in OpenSCAD.
>>
>>2101838
pointless when your handle is extremely vulnerable to under the door attacks
>>
>>2101841
3mm of PLA aren't much of a challenge either. It's more of an aesthetic addition than for security.
>>
>>2101844
its enough to slow down a lock core punch out attack if its mounted right
>>
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>>2101844
>inb4 aesthetic? it looks like bullcrap!
The original (picrelated) wasn't a pretty sight either. At least this time it's _my_ shitty keyhole guard.
>>2101848
Don't sweat it mate. I may post soon in a lockpicking general. The plastic guard just replaces a sheet metal cover to cover the eyesore that is the routed hole in the wood, not a magical amulet to keep the popo out. There are other security considerations that make entry more difficult which are not visible in the pictures, but I know there are ways in.
>>
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>>2101855
Locksmith here, if you really want to protect your lever you need to print something that is as long as the lever is plus going to the doors frame. What you have printed isn't really going to stop someone, I don't think.
Imagine pic related but with a lever instead. Make it a little bit wider out from the door.
>>
>>2101855
>>2101861
Another option would be something like this. You can buy them but I'm not sure about your country. Main use is to stop children and pets from pulling the lever down, but it would stop a thief just as easy.
The best and most secure option would be to add another lock like a deadbolt or something but depending on your living situation that might not be possible.
>>
>>2101861
>>2101864
>The best and most secure option would be to add another lock like a deadbolt or something
>>2101855
>There are other security considerations that make entry more difficult which are not visible in the pictures
;3
And also security guards, it's a gated community of sorts, so to speak.
>depending on your living situation that might not be possible
I have the legal possibility of just plain replacing the door and frame whole with a security door (and frame). Maybe in a few months.
>>
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big bunny
>>
>>2101867
Plus
>>2101864
>Another option would be something like this. You can buy them but I'm not sure about your country.
That looks beautifully fit for this general. I may give it a try tomorrow and print it while I go about my day job and report back. Thanks for the idea! :3
>>
>>2101873
is that acetone-dipped ABS/ASA?
>>
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did my first PETG print today.
downloaded someone elses profile so accidentally printed with a raft.
fan at 20% in cura seems to prevent stringing almost entirely.
i have blobs at the top and very bottom (raft) of the print. not sure why but i'm going to try tweaking retraction a bit.
overhangs are a bit shit looking but that's a characteristic of the material right?
on to functional parts now.

as always, thanks for coming to my ted talk
>>
WHAT THE FUCK

Ender 3 pro
Esun PLA +
Using cura 60mms speed, .2 layer height, retraction enabled, all that shit. Getting zits and blurbs on all my prints.
Started happening on all my prints, worse on the single line stuff.
Tried tweaking retraction and combing and it doesn’t help. What the actual FUCK
>>
>>2101920
Happens in vase mode too. It’s not z step blurbs
>>
>>2101922
This ender has been constant problems, I’m so close to dumping a few rounds of 7.62 into it
>>
>>2101910
Looks quite good, although if you're not getting any stringing it's a sign of printing too cold with PETG. It's one of those materials that like it nice and toasty.
Decorative stuff might not mind but in structural stuff layer adhesion might suffer.
>>
>>2101920
What hotend and extruder setup are you using?
>>
>>2101928
Stock hotend, extruder is an aluminum one from Amazon. Stock one broke in a week, go figure.
>>
>>2101926
i was printing at 240 nozzle and 70 bed.
higher than that then i fear for the life of the PTFE tube.
i could see strings starting and being blown away by the fan and there are some very thin ones dotted around the print, so i think i'm probably OK.
>>
>>2101929
Take the hotend apart, do a proper cleaning, cut the PTFE nice and straight, seat it well and report with results.
>>
>>2101922
>>2101920
Maybe it's running out of cache and pauses? If it pauses or stutters, try arc welding or printing slower.
>>2101905
Not him but I suspect resin.
>>
>>2101930
>higher than that then i fear for the life of the PTFE tube
If it's the stock PTFE tube then it's shit and it'll slowly bake itself to death even at PLA temps. If it's Capricorn you shouldn't worry, mine is good even after a few hundred hours printing ABS at 260C.
>>
>>2101932
I have done this before, but I will try again and report back.

>>2101934
Arc welding?

I have tried slower, all the way down to 30mms and it had no affect on the part.

When it does it, I can see it start to extrude too early, or keep extruding after it comes to a stop. That’s why I tried to adjust retraction and all that
>>
>>2101920
what changed? When did this start happening and what did your prints look like before?
>>
>>2101940
Nothing changed, prints were looking great before. That particular print is one wall and seems to be worse.

I know the machine is capable of doing a good job, pic related is nice except a tiny bit of elephants foot.
>>
>>2101905
Very obviously resin, you can see the printer right behind it
>>
>>2101942
honestly that mini-vase isn't looking so great, it actually looks like it has the same problems just not as bad. Have you calibrated extruder e-steps at all on this printer?
>>
>>2101949
Yes I have, a few times actually
>>
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>>2101937
>Arc welding?
https://youtu.be/18uYYXecH5g
>>
>>2101905
resin
>>
>>2101715
You've literally just explained to yourself why it's necessary. I've tried both though and honestly I actually prefer just plain glass. Just wait till it cools down and the prints just pop off without need of any kind of flexing
>>
>>2101979
Thats kind of my general point. Using hairspray and letting the plate cool I seldom have issues. Occasionally I may need to take a scraper and do a crowbar pry, but nothing like, jackhammer knife pry like I've had with resin
>>
>>2101951
hmmmm okay. How many prints have been run on this machine? Im guessing its still all stock hot end, nozzle, and extruder?
>>
>>2101989
lol im retarded, forgot about your other posts. idk this seems really weird, I guess it could be a clog but I almost want to say its something wrong with nozzle. What temp do you print at? Do you run any petg? abs? or just pla filaments?
>>
>>2101995
Few hundred hours for sure. Stock hot end, aluminum extruder.

I just switched out the nozzle and Bowden tube. The screws holding the block to the heat sink were loose.

Fixed all that, but now it’s printing again and I can 100% watch it make all those little zits, the printer stops there then continues on, and it’s all over, not just where the z step is.
>>
>>2101997
My e steps and flow rate are both dead on. I feel it’s mechanical because one day it wasn’t doing all this and now it’s excessive. It’s not extruder skip, I know what that looks like
>>
>>2101875 here
>>2101864
Do you think that'd look less shitty in white or in black PLA on my door? (>>2101838)
>>
This shit. Sometimes I just feel like screaming at the top of my lungs.
>>
>>2102026
Well the door is more light colored and the trim is white so I'd probably go with white PLA
>>
God my ender is such a flaming pile of shit
>>
>>2102166
Anon, printers can't be gay.

Unless filaments are touching. Then its pretty bad
>>
>>2102149
Thanks :3
>>
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I think I'll give Blender a try tomorrow.
Making this was some Wild Wacky Action Bike shit.
>>
Any way to get a soft effect from FDM similar to foam rubber? Was thinking of how to go about printing prop weapons like swords.
>>
>>2102214
>https://youtu.be/18uYYXecH5g
>>
>>2102214
Sorry, clipboard grabbed the wrong URL.
https://youtu.be/PtYaaBtm3XQ
>>
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I want to 3d print a wooden harp. I came to DIY earlier asking how hard it would be to craft a harp and everyone basically said I was shit out of luck.

I saw the /3dpg/ threads while creating the thread and wondered about just 3d printing a harp out of plastic and saw this guy's channel where he 3d printed one. I went to his youtube channel to see how a plastic harp would sound and sure enough his newest video is him 3d printing a wooden vase.

If the wood acoustics sounds rights then it should be pretty good, I can even design a pattern into it.

Anyone here have any experience with 3d printing wood filament?

https://youtu.be/SdOn7B86eX8
https://youtu.be/dFUxMkgl1Iw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uDciZahKRg
>>
>>2102229
>wood filament
Wood filament is not wood. It's plastic (typically PLA) with bits of ground-up wood or other plant fiber mixed in. The PLA is mostly responsible for its structural properties, while the wood is there for aesthetics (color, texture, stainability). Its acoustic properties are not the same as wood, and a plastic harp won't sound like a wooden one. Can you print something playable? Sure, but it will sound different from a wooden one, though I'm not aware of investigations that would allow you to predict how it would be different. Generally, wood filament prints poorly, and is weak and brittle.
>>
>>2102251
I'm curious what that'd sound like now though considering they've started making carbon fiber harps.

Would the wood and plastic mesh good together and make a new kind of accoustic sound or would it be worse? Would be interesting to see. AFAIK no one has done this before.
>>
>>2101922
Near the bottom where it has the blobs all in a row, can you measure the distance between them?
>>
>>2101910
Gimme that profile
>>
Can models from Blender be printed with a level of precision or does the old mantra "Blender is not CAD software" still ring true?
>>
What's your favourite calibration prints? I installed Cura 4.9 and lost all my profiles and I only remember what I had my temp set at.
>>
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>>2102286
can't remember if i modified the profile before or
after printing the cat (think it was after):

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Vanethrane/Cura-Profiles/master/ender%203%20v2%20PETG.curaprofile
>>
>>2102351
Thanks! I'll see what works for me.
>>
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I've a had a CR10s that I almost never use, always in favor of an old ass Anet A8 that's in an enclosure running klipper. Since I use it so infrequently, bed always appear to be out of level.
I bought the fucking Creality BLtouch kit, hoping it to be just a plug and play. And holy shit its just terrible.
>wiring was all wrong.
>faggotTouch just sits there blinking red every now and then.
>G29 after waiting for bed temp, heat nozzle while probing.
>probing done, wait for nozzle temp.
>nozzle temp reached.
>starts running through the progress bar, increasing the percentage.
>Does nothing, as if the gcode file had nothing besides the start and end gcode.
I was able to get one print out of it, then it just crashes and refuses to print anything from the sd. And even then, the end gcode didn't execute properly.
>>
>>2100587
>the legality of having something open source like that and then removing the source
are you retarded? do you think you have some RIGHT to the information? lol, fucking millennials.
>>
>>2101861
the best lever protection is like that but goes around in a U above and below s.t. wire or film can't be raised nor dropped to grab the handle.
>>
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>>2102448
like this
>>
>>2099921
>because its too hard to level your bed with a piece of paper
>>
>>2100677
lay it down on the short verticle side?
>>
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>>2100733
should have brinted in stainless so it matched betted
>>
>>2099921
>based on hundreds of millions of complaints by creators
ftfy
>>
>>2101126
soolidverks
>>
>>2102458
>t.has a linux installation with no user apps or services installed, uses it just to play around with /etc
>>
>>2102336
>build random model in blender
>import to slicer
>scale scaling side so it measures 100mm
>print
>messure scaling side
>100mm
wow
>>
>>2102490
i aint got time for dat, im too busy making things
>>
>>2101922
>>2102283
Please respond anon the measurement will give us a needed clue as to what is malfunctioning
>>
>>2102336
Blender is not a cad software not because you can't print from it(all you need is a reference for your dimensions to scale it in your slicer) but because last I checked there wasn't any parametric constraints. Time line came across a massive pain the ass, and in general several useful tools were lacking. i.e. hardly no ability to make revisions.
But as someone else pointed out, to print something out of it all you really need is a known dimension and scale uniformly in the slicer until matching.
>>2102439
>advertise something as open source.
>Fine, let's see the source.
lmao boomer retard.
>>
>>2102346
Mostly just the stupid calibration cube for me. I've been meaning to try a tramming print though, which is basically like the corner of a 3D graph.
I used to use a single layer square a lot to get my nozzle height dialed in.
Occasionally I will use a temp tower. There is a nice one where you have to modify the model in OpenSCAD and then use the accompanying Python script to o generate the gcode.
>>
So apparently Reprap runs on a SKR, how well does it run though? I'm considering the SKR 1.4.
>>
>>2102346
These days I just do the marlin linear advance calibration, then I do the retraction tower from here: http://retractioncalibration.com/
>>
People actually use Marlin?
>>
>>2102450
Not an expert, but it looks like a rigid hook could actually find purchase and pull the handle. What's the advantages of that kind of guard versus something that locks the handle in place like this >>2101864? Or maybe I should print something that has both functions, a guard and a lock?
>>
>>2102529
With the right shaped tool, this >>2102450
could be bypassed. I have several in my possession that could do this, tools of the trade although I don't use them that often. This one >>2101864 you could not bypass because the way it locks in place.
One thing you have to think about too is fire safety. I'm not sure about your country but here all fire exits require single egress motion to pass through. Which basically means you only have to do one thing to get the door to open. Commonly that would be an interconnected lever and deadbolt lock. You can lock or unlock the deadbolt independantly but if you push down on the lever it will always unlock the deadbolt.
>>
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>>2102525
What else would you use on your chinesium creality printer?
>>
>>2102542
Not him, but I'm eyeing Klipper on my OctoPi to run my stock-board Ender 3. Would something like that work? The alternative would be, indeed, just rebuilding an updated Merlin.
>>
>>2102410
yeah, think i'm just going to get stronger springs for my ender 3. looks like a pisstake.
>>
>>2102546
sure, in fact, Klipper is a kind of "Win-printer" designed to get the most out of 8-bit boards by moving all the heavy math to the printer host
a board with silent Trinamic drivers would be quieter and smoother still, but the stock board will work better than it would have under Marlin
>>
>>2102561
Most interesting! Would that include the 32 bit interpolation shenanigans enabling quieter smoler motor steps?
>>
>>2102578
that: just klipper. A new board isn't on the roadmap soon.
>>
>>2102578
unfortunately, microstepping is a feature of the stepper driver IC. unless you change the driver IC, you're stuck with the steps the board has got
>>
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>>2102346
show bottom? mine looks good on top too
>>
>>2102592
Aw.
>>
Is it possible to make fake ratchet joints, swivel joint with a notch on the rotating part and a gear like structure on the "base" part, with resin 3d printed ABS?
I feel like the notch would be worn down in a couple of uses unlike an injection plastic part.
>>
>>2102597
can't post bottoms on a blue board breh
>>
>>2102538
>One thing you have to think about too is fire safety. I'm not sure about your country but here all fire exits require single egress motion to pass through
What if I only use the handle lock when I leave?

On another note; maybe I should print a knob handle instead of a lever handle? I guess those are more difficult to attack over/under the door, but it's not completely impossible.
>>
>>2102631
If you only lock it when you leave, then it should be OK like that. But what about at night?
It would be really hard to do this type of attack to a round knob. A lot of places use levers now because they are easier for the elderly and handicapped.
You could certainly try to print a knob, I'm not sure how well it would work. Your current lever attaches in likely one of two ways. One way, it uses a set screw on the side. The other way, there is a small hole that you have to use something thin like a pokey tool or paperclip to press this retaining thing down to take the lever off.
So as long as you could copy the mechanism that holds the lever on, it might work.
>>
>>2102663
>A lot of places use levers now because they are easier for the elderly and handicapped
Good thing I'm neither :3
I once did an over-the-door attack on a round knob but it required snaking a thicc and sticky rubber-covered network cable and made quite a fuss. I think it would be quite a challenge with my current door, which has a nontrivial shape on the upper and side edges. The lower edge is a bit worrisome, but I am very much considering adding a hard edge. How much of a gap should I leave at most?
>>
>>2102693
ps: I should get back on my spammy traditions and gather the situation in one post soon
>>
>>2099781
>Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro)
OK, retard here. How come you guys recommend the 3 Pro over the V2? I've been meaning to pick up the V2 as soon as I can but I want to understand. As far as I can tell, the V2 is better since it has things that you would upgrade to if you had bought the Pro. What is the main advantage of the Pro over the V2?
>>
>>2102734
v2 is far better tried both side by side at microcenter
the people who make this thread are retarded printer ricers
>>
>>2102735
Poorfag here with a nonpro v1. What are the differences? How can I upgrade/transvest my v1 into a v2?
>>
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>>2102752
>>
>>2102734
get the V2 unless you want to pull the printer apart to swap components over and end up spending more for the privilege.
>dual gear extruder
>textured and tempered glass bed (basically don't need glue anymore)
>silent motherboard
>upgraded computer (mostly pointless)
>knobs to adjust belt tension instead of hard mounting.
>built in tool drawer (based on the ones people designed for the original).
>>
>>2102754
Let me get this straight; elastic bungs/pads/cylinders/whatever instead of springs and insulation under the bed? Sounds within grasp :3 Are the bungpadcylinderthingies printable in TPU or would they slowly creep with a 100ºC bed if I try to run ABS or something? Does the insulation help?
>>
>>2102759
the v2 comes with springs. not sure what he's on about.
>>
>>2102758
I haven't looked at the v2 since I have a pro... and damn, that sounds like a good deal. Definitely get a v2!
>>
>>2102759
the bungs are silicone
the insulation helps
>>
>>2102766
yeah, i've had mine about 5 days now. did my first PETG print on it yesterday.
Other than auto bed leveling and all metal hot-end its got everything.
>>
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>>2102758
so basically it comes with all the fixes for nonexistant problems that the ricers usually print for themselves?
>>
>>2102771
the only thing out of those you can print are the drawer and the knobs, which are convienent but don't add anything to the printing process.
everything else (with the exception of the computer) improves convienence.
>>
>>2102773
you know what i meant
>>
>>2102767
Any special silicone or if I print a mold set and pour any silicone it should work?
>>
>>2102754
is this for less bed wobble?
i've seen people shill upgraded springs before but not silicone.
>>
>>2102775
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FJ6ZVH8/
>>2102777
checkem
yes
>>
>>2102734
>implying anyone updated the OP
I suppose back when the list was made the V2 wasn't a thing yet or just too expensive.
>>
>>2102752
If you have a nonpro the only difference that really matters is the central member that the bed sits on. The pro made it thicker and it makes a big difference to rigidity, and it's not something you can easily upgrade. Everything else is just convenience and window dressing
>>
>>2102783
>the central member that the bed sits on
I don't see any central column. Is there a central column or is the Y carriage made of thiccer metal? A couple of friends of mine could CNC sheet metal if I ask them nicely enough
>>
>>2102790
I'm talking about the 2020 aluminium extrusion that the bed rollers go along. The pro uses a 2040. Obviously if you change that you will also need to change the carriage plate and the y axis belt mountings, machine a new groove in the base for it to sit in, at that point you may as well just buy a new printer
>>
>>2102796
mine has 4040,so it must be a v2?
>>
>>2102804
(we're different anons)
>>
Thoughts on Aquila? Does anyone have one? I've heard it's similar to Ender 3 v2. I'm not sure if there are any upgrades for it though.

https://www.voxelab3dp.com/product/aquila-diy-fdm-3d-printer#t2
>>
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>>2102809
All anons are one anon. Assimilate.
>>
>>2102815
I looks like the basic structure is the same, and if you want to learn how to make stuff yourself adapting and redesigning upgrades to fit might be good practice.
>>
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>>2102693
Update: what about a round knob and a lever-shaped mask holder? How many red team jimmies would that rustle?
>>
>>2102819
I'm talking about upgrades for nylon glass or polycarbonate filaments at higher temps. I know the Ender 3 can be reprogrammed and be fitted for higher temp nozzles. I'm not sure about this though.
>>
>>2102804
Yea, Pro has 4040 for the y axis rollers. I believe anon's main point stands: that extrusion is 20mm wide in the Ender 3, 40mm wide in the Pro.
>>
>>2102529
>>2102538
sure but you would kind of need to know the shape of the piece and it would have to be rigid, which means the clearance to insert and manipulate a rigid tool. remember you're doing this blind from the other side of the door, not expecting any interference. it's like the difference between picking a lock in your offhand and picking it while bent over in the rain when it's attached to a rusty gate. you COULD but the chances that anyone WILL do this to 3rd world anon are between slim and none.
>>
>>2102542
my neighbor claims to have written his own kernal to work with the bl touch he was bragging about.
>>
>>2102822
>>2102693
>>2102663
>>2102631
also at some point quite early in this discussion OPs door is simply going to be kicked in. unless OP is some stealth rich target or political, the chances that anyone will try more than the most basic attack are minuscule. again, you could, but with the amount of trouble you all are discussing one could just impression a key and have permanent access to OPs bath.
>>
Last month I didn't get to cancel my subscription in time since the stupid box took so long to get to me so unfortunately I got charged a second month...
I wonder what kind of gay project there is this time.
>>
>>2102221
Thanks for the link.
>>
>>2102877
>>2102883
Yeah it's true most criminals are just going to try a boot to the door, that's why I recommended a deadbolt. And why go through the trouble of kicking in a door if there is a window nearby?
What he needs is to get a nice lock on there like a Schlage, that'll stop burgulers dead in their tracks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xdzKInOEws
>impression a key
Hey that's my job!
I saw one tool a guy made to impression lever locks that was 3D printed but he wouldn't divulge the secrets of how it worked since we were on an open forum. It kind of looked like a mold though.
>>
>>2102927
>glitter blue htpla
>pink tough pla
>dark chocolate recycled petg
>clear tpu
Project: 3D printed speaker
Accessory: some painting spatulas to scratch the coating off my glass bed with
At least the filament selection was better than last time...still disappointing though
>>
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>>2102976
>>
>>2102976
Eh, not bad, at least it's somewhat useful. At worst, stick it in your bathroom to listen to while you shower or something.
>>
Looking into getting into the hobby. Is there any reason to go FDM over SLA aside from build size and cost of material? Seems like it's less things to troubleshoot overall and cleaner end products.
>>
What brands of PETG do you guys have good experiences with? My first interaction with it was a cheap local brand that's quite annoying.
>>
>>2103004
>size and cost
Nope, you pretty much nailed it. Strength of parts is a big one, though; SLA prints are still more brittle than FDM.
>>
>>2103004
>>2103018
FDM is generally less messy too, with no resin, washing, and curing.
>>
>>2103018
Isn't SLA a hassle to get going?
I've only used FDM.
Haven't ran my printer in several weeks, but all I have to do is turn it on, wipe the bed and hit print
>>
>>2103023
It is. You have to have a place to wash it, cure it, let it dry, gloves to work with, reasonably large quantities of IPA, and a place to put it so you don't poison yourself. So there's definitely tradeoffs.
>>
Picked up a second V6 and BMG clone. Now I just have to figure out how to mount two pancake steppers, two BMGs and two V6 on an Ender 3 carriage. I'm hoping to find something that has already been designed but my initial search isn't turning up and thing promising. Do any of you guys run dual extruders? Even if I couldn't do them both in direct drive configuration I wouldn't care.
>>
>>2103042
Usually dual extrusion setups are meant to be used with bowden extruders. You have one place for an extruder already, you just need to find or make a bracket to fit a 2nd one.
That being said you should have went with a Chimera to make things easier to mount.
>>
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Wow, check this out... It's a BMG conversion that only weights about 11g! Looks like it was just released within the last couple of weeks.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4841682
https://github.com/mustcode/superfly
>>
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First print!
Can someone tell me why the bottom layer looks so good, but we've got that weird shit going on for the top and sides near the X?
First image of two.
>>
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>>2103051
Picture 2.
>>
>>2103043
Yeah I saw at least one for CR-10 with Chimera hotend that looked good, I might end up with one of those if I can't figure this out. I guess there is probably no way to use a Y-shaped filament splitter with a direct drive hotend. Should have thought of that before I bought my parts. Oh well, not a big deal. I'll probably just try the two hotends and if I don't like it, try something else.
>>
>>2103051
>>2103052
Your belts may need to be tightened more, maybe your extruder arm needs tightened too. Looks like some severe underextrusion on the top. The bottom looks good because it is on something flat, so it is completely supported.
You should calibrate your printer and then do another cube. It'll probably take you a couple of hours the first time. Double check that everything is square and tight.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
>>
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>>2103047
Fully assembled, less than 31g. I hope someone here tries this Thing.
>>
>>2103052
>>2103051

>>2103056
I had cura on default settings; fucking 2.8mm when the filament is 1.75.
I'll work through that page.
>>
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>>2103051
>>2103052

After fixing the cura problem.
Now I see some z banding, some ringing, and maybe some elephant's foot.
>>
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>>2103088
Segundo.
>>
>>2102734
wew i had literally just bought a 3 pro based on the OP recommendations, good thing they hadn't shipped it yet
>>
>>2103089
Did you do your Esteps and flow? Is your carriage and wheels tight?
>>
>>2103012
Prusament has worked well for me. A little stringy, but nothing troublesome.
>>
>>2103113
I did the measure-and-trim method of extrusion tuning. I haven't tried anything else yet.
Which carriage?
>>
>>2103012
Esun natural (clear) PETG. Stuff is damn near impervious to browning
>>
>>2102950
>>2102883
Believe me, a boot won't work. A ram might, on the other hand (pun intended). Also I'm not on a ground floor so access to my windows is not trivial and requires getting past a guard and a fence.
I'm just looking to deter an attack of opportunity so they need to raise a racket and take more than 5 minutes and choose to goto another flat or scram.
>>
>>2103101
You wouldn't miss out on much by sticking with the pro. The V2 has quick adjust tensioners, a more aesthetic hotend shroud and a glass bed, everything else is the same.
Quick adjust tensioners are cool but not something groundbreaking because you don't tension the belts every day. Hotend shroud looks better but it's just as retarded as the old one and blows air on your print unintentionally. The glass bed is the only thing to keep in mind about it. The pro comes with a magnetic mat as a build plate, which doesn't hold up well at high temps and you can fuck it up if you crash the nozzle into it.
>>
>>2103189
well i just checked and the 3 pro i got was shipped anyway, apparently i didn't actually cancel it in time, but i guess it's fine given the one i got also comes with a glass bed so i should be good?
>>
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yessss it finally arrived!
time for me to stop being filthy screw turning manual leveling pleb
it has more wires than i thought tho, i tought it will only be 3 and it has 5
>>
>>2102950
hobby for me. Check video with this:
https://covertinstruments.com/collections/lishi-tools
also great site and great yt channel (although he makes you feel bad about your skillz :D)
>>
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>>2101781
Turned him on his back and he looks so much better. I'm surprised an Ender 3 is capable of such good prints.
>>
>>2103207
Was just watching this and wondered if we could actually just make this ourselves, printed in place, out of PLA or some shit. Any thoughts? Is PLA too brittle? Maybe nylon?
>>
>>2103229
That's the thing in that one GorePete game that makes you like it while it tentacle fucks you, right?
>>
>>2103237
Is from Doom
>>
>>2103004
I'd say size and detail. You can't print smooth coomer dolls or D&D minis on an FDM, but they're fine for scenery.

If you just want to jump in FDM is much more reasonable and zero cleanup. Monoprice mini delta is a plug and print option not listed in the OP that's a perfect beginner printer.

Also it's common to think "well I'll get the BIGGEST FUCKING BED I CAN" but honestly it's not necessary, you won't use much of it most of the time and you can always add a bigger FDM or an SLA as your interests change. Mini delta is a little small, but the biggest use I have for a bigger bed is making multiples of smaller prints which I rarely need anyway.
>>
>>2103236
I'd try carriage from PLA made to fit a regular pick and an existing key blank. that way the print is only outside the lock. scale would be the biggest problem since those are precision, but if you're doing one off you can probably sand/finish to bring it to accurate.
>>
>>2103229
Nice! Layer height?
>>
>>2103240
>You can't print smooth coomer dolls or D&D minis on an FDM
spamanon here. I have printed some figs and they work fine enough in .12mm layers and smoler. Your mileage may vary.
>>
>>2103267
0.1, 0.4 standard nozzle. No magic number business
>>
>>2103269
yeah and I print FDM minis and smooth and paint them, it's not impossible but still not the correct choice for a newb who wants to get into miniatures as the bulk of their printing.
>>
>>2103207
I love my Lishi collection but rarely do I get to use them. Well, I might use my KW1/5 or SC4 daily (if I feel like it, sometimes it's faster to shim a lock or something), but all of my automotive Lishis mainly just sit there. I did get a chance on a lockout for a Toyota yesterday but I ended up airbagging the door like some common tow truck driver because I was running out of time and the customer was getting impatient. We dont really do a lot of lockouts, it's just a service we offer, but I feel like I should at least try to pick the lock before I reach for the Slim Jim or something else. I have a huge kit for vehicle lock outs but I only use it maybe a couple of times a week. Most the work we do is residential and commercial rekeys and installations.
I love this job. Every day is different. I always wanted to be a locksmith when I was a kid. My grandma told me basically that only stupid people became locksmiths though, so I never actually tried to be one until kind of recently. Our industry is kind of fucked though it seems because there isn't a lot of fresh blood in the ranks. We've been looking for a new apprentice for over 6 months and only had one applicant, who promptly quit the next day.
>>
>>2103275
>I feel like I should at least try to pick the lock before I reach for the Slim Jim or something else
y tho, so the customer has to replace their lock cylinder now that you've potentially damaged it?
>>
>>2102773
There are printable belt-tensioners that work fine, but yeah, get the v2.
>>
>>2103203
Anon, I hate to tell you this, but you will still have to level your bed.
>>
>>2101529
Cold hot end is very bad.
Most common cause is the heater cart falling out of hotend, used to be a big cause of fires before firmware fixes.
>>
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Printed this case for my GTR... Unfortunately there really isn't anywhere to mount it on the Ender 3, except maybe where the spool is at the top. Need to figure something better out.
>>
>>2103278
You aren't going to damage a lock by attempting to pick it. On the small chance that I did, that's what our insurance is for. There is a much greater chance when using the automotive lockout kit. You can bend the door out from the frame with the airbag, the long reach tool can damage the paint, slim jim or other in-door tools can get caught on whatever is hidden in the door. One of my coworkers got a bypass tool stuck in a car door once, it took him almost 2 hours to get it out. When he finally did, he broke the window track some how. So I'd say attempting to pick the lock is safer. On a regular dooor cylinder, there is a small chance you could get a pin stuck up above the plug where the key goes in but this is impossible with automotive locks.
>>
New Thread
>>2103308
>>
>>2103286
why? the probe will do it now
>>
>>2103341
The probe is going to turn those wheels for you?
>>
>>2103343
ummm.. do you not understand how bed leveling works?
>>
>>2103270
Now print it at .05 layer height with a 0.2mm nozzle and watch it go from OG doom to doom 3 quality
>>
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What's this bed called and where can I buy the cheapest replacement
>>
>>2103411
>where can I buy the cheapest replacement
The nearest place where you can buy a piece of glass or mirror.
>>
>>2103414
I've had shit results with glass, I just want this stoxk cheap piece of crap
>>
>>2103428
I bought a spare from aliexpress, I didn't like glass either.
>>
>>2103236
>PLA lockpicks
Nope, and abandon the thought. Nothing past specialty engineering materials (think, like, PEI family) is likely rigid/strong enough to be used
>>
>>2103343
that's not how auto bed levelling works.
the bed stays how it is and printer moves up and down to account for the unevenness of the bed.
>>
>>2103502
Tell him, not me. I was being sarcastic.
>>
>>2103497
>abandon the thought
Yeah sure, Agent Smith.
>>
>>2103534
I mean hey if you want to jam up some locks with flexible plastic be my guest, I have no skin in the game
>>
>>2103538
Have any of you filthy peasants heard of Nylon/CF?
>>
>>2103490
Which one? What's this called? It's not PEI right?
>>
I have a PETG profile and a PLA profile.
I want to print in ABS and I'm considering adjusting temps, fan and add a brim, which of my profiles should I use?
>>
>>2103556
Much closer to PETg.
>>
>>2103556
You can start with either as long as you know what you're doing.
What you have to change from PLA is bed & hotend temperature, cooling, and maximum speed.
With PETG you also have to change retraction settings since you're using different values for PETG.
>>
>>2103555
It was this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32876121111.html
My ender is from the days when the build tak was stuck to the build plate, but you could always leave the tape on the back and clip it on.
>>
>>2103574
I'll add to this because I have no idea what the modern ender beds are like, that link is for just the printing surface, its a sheet of plastic with 3m adhesive on the back, theres no sprung steel or magnetic shit on it.
>>
>>2103411
microcenter $18
amazon $16
>>
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Why is nobody talking abour the ender 5? I have it. Its damn good and stable
>>
>>2104828
I also have one, there isn't much to talk about.
>>
>>2104830
We need to repill the people about it. Its low price and not in the pastebin



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