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A Sale Of Two Titties Edition
Old thread: >>2074089
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Lulzbot Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.
>>
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Current status:

Aaaand that horizontal line is... you guessed it... when I shut down the printer overnight. I won't do that again for prints i care at all about. Other than that, good good good!
>>
Ordered nearly all the mechanical stuff for the 200x200x200 Hypercube, will decide on a control board in the meanwhile.
>>
>>2076400
>will decide on a control board in the meanwhile
On this subject, anyone here ever used a Duet clone?
>>
>>2076401
I've used genuine Duet boards before, they're great and usually overkill for any application. The two clones I know of work fine and are still running a year in.
>>
>>2076390
Why the fuck would you shut it down? Just let it finish...
>>
Hello 3DPg, I am using an ender 3v2, my filament is some cheap Chinese PLA, using Cura at dynamic setting, 50% print speed on the printer, 75°C on the plate, 200°C on the nozzle. I am using brims for my 3D prints and I have noticed that parts or traces in the middle right region don't stick as good to the base as the rest of the prints. I get wrapping and weird waves in the filament, which ends in the part dislocating. The traces of filament in the rest of the bed seem to go without a problem. I have had a print running for the last 6 hours and the print that's in the middle right region had come off and is held in place by the brims in the rest of the model. What do? I ended up using brims instead of skirts because of wrapping, now it feels like its just happening in one part. Also I used the A4 method to level my bed a few times before I started the print so I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Please help /3DP-Gentlemen/
>>
>>2076321
sure but don't forget chinese hot ends still work fine. I don't disagree that going all metal can be better in some situations but for the vast majority of people in this hobby, they can live without it.

its not a conspiracy faggot
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>>2076417
Picture I took from another print. It only warps in that one region.
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>open up rc car project in f360
>want to change some diameters
>get error-meassages about "circular dependency found"
>try to find the error in the 2 mentioned sketches
>end up deleting them
>still throwing the same error even tho mentioned sketches are deleted
>look up fixes online
>its a known timeline bug
restarting and even going back to older save states didn't resolve the issue.
can I join the eaa for solidworks if I'm from europe?
>>
>>2076414
Because I owe no one an explanation.
>>
>>2076434
Bltouch will solve that
>>
>>2076442
The ender 3 v2 as do all the firmwares for a while now has thermal runaway enabled so it's no longer necessary to babysit your printer. You can stop being skerd at anytime.
>>
>>2076436
Well it was made in blender not fusion... Try reading the fucking manual.
>>
>>2076450
Can't get one right now fren, is there a free fix for this?
>>
>>2076452
some people like sleeping
>>
>>2076455
Level your bed with a piece of tape under where it's dipping but it might be a massive pain in the ass to figure out. The knockoff bltouch works in a pinch. I have tested a couple from aliexpress and they work fine but are more prone to crashes and stability issues... There's also a firmware you can do where you print something that uses your hotend as a mesh sensor. It uses the push back from the stepper motor. This can be very very very slow but it does work. Don't enable g29 in your slicer when you do this. Just level it once in a while by hand with the printer.
>>
>>2076458
You're printing in your bedroom??? The fumes are harmful as fuck... You're going to get lung cancer if it's not ventilated... What the fuck is wrong with people...?
>>
How does the trianglelab titan aero compare to the authentic one?
>>
>>2076465
bro its fine
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>>2076283
changes based on humidity
if you're printing on glass it obv measures to the bed and not any minor imperfections on the glass
performs better at higher voltage
hope you're using a opto-isolator
>>
>>2076467
No it's not lol
>>
>>2076436
you can turn off the timeline in F360. not saying that will help. I was trying to do a simple projection and FUCK F360 is a fucking pile of shit. I really want to eaa and solidworks but I don't want to learn a new fucking program.
>>
>>2076470
show me on the doll where the chemicals touched you
>>
>>2076468
Also if it's induction you should be printing on a metal bed. I wonder if he's printing on a Prusa knockoff.
>>
>>2076436
>can I join the eaa for solidworks if I'm from europe?
Yeah if you have a credit card, sure. I have done it.
I still haven't begun learning SW though, don't really want to start from scratch..
>>
>>2076474
Just move the printer into your kitchen or something it has a handle. Print somewhere you're not sleeping ffs... Not our fault you're a fucking dumbass. You want lung cancer that's on you. I'm just warning you that breathing in plastic fumes can be harmful... Fucking morons have no place in this hobby...
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Anyone here ever order directly from BIQU before (www.biqu.equipment)? How long did it take for them to actually ship? My order just passed the 7 day mark with no updates and I'm starting to wonder.
>>
Hypothetically, would “natural” untinted PLA always be slightly more accurate and easier to work with than any colored filament?
>>
Any possibility someone has experience with Gembird PLA+, I am quiete a cheapo, and this one is way cheaper for me, than anything else, but if it's a dogcrap, I would radred pay up and actual have solid prints
>>
>>2076494
3 weeks, they're based in China and use alibaba to complete orders.
>>
>>2076499
Red has isn't as accurate
Blue isn't as strong
White or clear is generally preferred with black being a good option. I assume you're just going to paint it?
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>>2076494
Also, has anyone tried pic related? I didn't buy it but I was considering it for next time if my order went OK.

>>2076501
OK I'll try to have a bit more patience, thanks anon.
>>
>>2076500
It's shit. Strings like a bitch. Uneven. Clogged my ender 3. Don't use it.
>>
>>2076473
well, in my experience with CAD (SolidEdge, NX, Inventor on pretty advanced level; SolidWorks and Fusion - but that's almost Inventor - on surface level) the principes are the same, the workflow is basicly the same too, just some features works differently, but still very similar, you can transion pretty easy with one or two project, to get on full workflow speed again.. but that said, some CAD are just slower workflow, than other - it takes on how UI and operation are layed out
>>
>>2076509
thanks, at the end saved my money
>>
>>2076505
The biqu i3 doesn't have an all metal hotend? I thought it did...
>>
>>2076513
Honestly I find the basic bitch white or black Creality pla to be the best. Overture pla is fine but you need to dry it. For some reason it comes soaking wet...
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>>2076464
>Level your bed with a piece of tape under where it's dipping but it might be a massive pain in the ass to figure out.
Yeah I'm no stranger to ass rape so I'll just spend an extensive amount of time doing that. It's a bed leveling issue after all. If not, then I'll try the rest. Chinese imports are banned where I am so it's extra gay.
>>
>>2076518
Biden lifted the bans though... What country? Gosh that must suck. You have my condolences... I hated not getting a microwave under Trump. Like it died and they all sold out and I couldn't get one until 3 days ago... I was without a microwave for about a year. I feel your pain.
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>>2076453
what are you on about, its my personal project i'm talking about
>>2076473
that would probably be possible, but leaves me stranded with "dumb" geometry which is a headache to work with
>>2076478
ty anon, installed it and am happy for now
>>
>>2076504
Why specifically blue?

And I thought that black was perhaps the worst to print with because it’s just scraps of other colors mixed with fuck loads of black dye
>>
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I've dropped temps down to 230, and did a batch of 4, one at a time, and the surface finish is fine, and the supports pull right off leaving the tabs looking good, but the inside is still spaghetti. I am using a cardboard hotbox cover to keep temps up ambient since it recommends 40c room temp, but perhaps thats keep the overall temp too high and preventing cooling leading to more stringing. I will say though, layer adhesion is spot on and the parts are nice and strong.
>>
>>2076520
You are a total fucking liar Walmart constantly and consistently had microwaves and if Walmart never ran out you are patently and completely full of shit. Walmart would be the first to run out. Keep your bullshit orange man bad to yourself.
>>
>>2076485
What fumes are there in PLA asshat? Don't start with the 'microplastics' meme either
>>
>>2076559
I for one enjoy a side of microplastics with my nicotine addiction
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>>2076555
You need a direct drive. It's a free mod just print the part, move your extruder, cut your bowden tube to fit and it'll print a lot better.
>>
>>2076559
I work for osha safety inspection and you'd fail a voc check without a fumes hood. It's an air quality test. Polylactic acid is made from maize sugarcain and milk. They literally curdle milk to make plastic. It does contain polymers though which are actually plastic. They're harmful as fuck. Yes there's way less but that doesn't mean they're non-existent. It's also hyper processed. Toxicity tests showed that PLA particles were more toxic than the ABS particles on a per-particle comparison. It releases less yes but you do need to be aware of this.
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>>2076452
If you were chomping at the bit to see the final result of this masterpiece, the moment has arrived!
>>
>>2076572
How would that effect stringing really? Retraction cleanliness due to reduced stretching?
>>
>>2076586
How do you feel knowing your autism ruined an otherwise perfect print?
>>
>>2076586
It's such a nice print otherwise
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>>2076583
My dick and balls will fail a VOC check on a hot day faggot fucking OSHA
>>
>>2076591
Feeling pretty good, I haven't had this printer for a week yet.
>>
>>2076597
This is the type of guy who wears a condom to go swimming in public pools
>>
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>>2076583
>>>>osha
That was a good laugh, ngl
>>
>>2076600
Hey, you won't be making fun of him when your penis gets pregnant
>>
>>2076596
So I think it's high time to put some restrictions on home 3d printer usage. Expect some new laws lobbying against home 3d printer usage. Seeing as you can't be responsible. You probably spoiled it for everyone.
>>
>>2076602
Laugh all you want, I'm about to lobby the government to restrict home 3d printer usage. Whose laughing now asshole!
>>
>>2076606
>>2076609
Reasons to ban home desktop 3d printers:
Dangerous carcinogens
They can be used to print guns unregulated
They are a fire hazard, insurance companies will back me.

Y'all are so fucked. Thanks for lighting a fire under my ass.
>>
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>Autism was outta control
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>>2076612
Ok cool then when your mania inevitably fades you'll be back to printing custom cock cages for yourself at the necessary 10% scale for fitment
>>
>>2076609
Ok bro, I don't give a shit since I live in a 2nd world shithole where the govt is too busy trying to not fall into a pit of debt. See you in 15-25 years when the retards at the top learn of the existance of 3D printers.
>>
>>2076434
Any non bltouch solutions gentlemen? I read the older threads and apparently the only answer to all your ender problems is a bltouch. So it's just the bed being out of level?
>>
>>2076628
Why bother to try or troubleshoot when you can just make the machine auto level itself every time as temps and warping vary. Useful if you want to swap build plates and surfaces or use bluetape as well
>>
>>2076629
Understandable, I saw a diy of the bltouch. I'll go and fuck with that.
>>
>>2076609
I'm going to print us a replacement government.
>>
>>2076634
You would get an easily more rigid spine using ninjaflex
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>>2076639
Do us all a favor and print one for every man in this cursed country.
>>
>>2076628
>>2076631
An inductive probe is functionally similar, though it needs a metal build plate or bed to work.
>>
>>2076514
Ah shit I didn't even notice that. Well, I'm going to get one, hopefully I can just install the appropriate all-metal heatbreak unless it uses the PTFE one for some specific reason.
>>
Can any of you tenured 4channel lawyers chime in?

>bought an STL with intent to print/clean/cast for personal use
>realize there would be a considerable market for casts of said object that aren’t feasible to everyone to buy a large printer for
>message the dude, offer to set up a commission based agreement to “license” his stl per cast while I charge for labor and material
>counters asking for 90% since he “spent so long modeling and learning to model”

So short of having him bumped off, what are the parameters that determine whether I tweaked his model enough to say that it’s no longer his model that I’m selling casts of?
>>
>>2076668
Or actually, does it even matter because I’d be selling a completely different medium than him?

It’s not like he’s selling castings that I’m bootlegging, is the difference between an stl and a physical object enough to argue that I’m not infringing on his market or revenue at all?
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Is there a way to model a DN50/S60x6 thread (outlet on a 1000 liter IBC) in fusion 360?
It's not included on the thread tool, is there a plugin for different threads?
Do I have to model it manually using the coil/pipe/whatever it's called tool?
>>
>>2076538
Is that a touring car?
>>
>>2076668
I'd say that if you buy his stl for every time you sell a casting of that, than you're good.
You should check on what conditions he is selling stl,
But in general, if you buy anything, you can transform it or use it in your project and resell it for however much you like.
In my opinion this seems fair to me. He gets paid everytime for the price he set it up himself, and you get paid for your work.
>>
>>2076586
do you feel well rested though?
>>
Nothing stated on the etsy listing itself, but doesn’t the sale of all digital media essentially entail “for personal use only, do not recreate” stipulations on them, at least in the us?

That’s an interesting idea about buying the stl each time, its not like he could really argue it
>>
>>2076668
>>2076671
okay cast v. not doesn't mean anything. the sculpt is intellectual property. you could even re-sculpt it and you wouldn't be safe.

the bad news is you alerted him to your nefarious doings because this is about how it goes down:
>nobody even realizes you're copying shit
>someone realizes you're copying shit
>someone makes a stink and the owner finds out (here's where you fucked up)
>the owner has to pay a lawyer
>lawyer writes you a cease and desist
>if you don't stop the owner has to pay more lawyers
>has to serve you papers
>has to take you to court
>possibly entitled to all of your profits, damage to his potential profits, and court costs
>all of which is capped by the amount of money the LLC you made because you're not a fucking dumbass has

in any case that's not even the case. tell him you agree to 90% of the profits from his piece and you'd like to collaborate under the same terms for future pieces. get him to agree to 90% of the profits on this piece and three more future pieces before he has to renegotiate the rate.

then... just don't make a profit. you have to pay for supplies, a place to produce, pay your employee (yourself), materials, transport, etc. basicially make like $3 a year after paying yourself and send him his 30¢. plus you've got rights to the next two models he's probably already made now that he's figured this out.
>>
>get ender dual z they said
>its an easy install they said
Meanwhile it took me oh I don't know maybe 6 hours total time fucking with it over the weekend. And I'm not even sure it's working right. I got the gantry leveled against the top extrusion to within about 1/4mm of both sides. But I think I might be having stepper motor issues.
The right side stepper is louder than the original on the left, but not by much. One thing I did notice though is that on the first movement it makes kind of a thinking sound, but only once. So if I tell the printer to raise Z by 5mm, the first move makes the thunk. If I tell it to move up 5 more millimeters, it does not make the sound. However, if I tell it to move down, it will then make the thunk. So it's like the first move in either direction is too hard or something maybe I'm not quite sure.
What do you guys recommend? As far as I can tell, the leadscrews are not bent thankfully. I have the mounts mounted loosely because I was tuning them. I had to loosen them because of binding. I am not using the holders for the top of the screws. Do I need to tune my vRef maybe? I've never done that before, what value should I shoot for with dual Z steppers on the Creality 4.2.2 board.
Any other ideas? I haven't done a test print yet. I think the first thing I'm going to print will be a couple of motor mounts for the Z stepper motors.
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>>2076680
i didn't really think about that, I just built something to get cattoys from the couch and fit the 1:28 shell
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>>2076409
>usually overkill for any application
The only application I've personally seen for a Duet is for an expensive custom printer where you needed to be able to monitor a lot of variables at once and keep track of the status, as well as be able to e-stop it if needed. I haven't looked into Duet otherwise, but I hear it namedropped a lot recently. What are the use-cases for it, anyway?
>>
>>2076722
>What are the use-cases for it, anyway?
Basically what you mentioned, as well as overkill replacement for factory boards. There aren't many printer systems you can't run with one, especially with all the breakout boards, and you can get rpetty close to a high end factory printer in terms of looks with the Paneldue. For example:
https://youtu.be/pQ_FTlTxPm8?t=510
>>
>>2076583
lol no youre larping as osha, there are no regulations whatsoever about PLA, nor would there ever be because it doesn't emit VOCs in the first place.
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>>2076721
Either way, that looks great. Are the files available?
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>>2076732
So what you are saying is, the only VOCs being emitted are the ones coming out of autistanons ass?
>>
So I've been using a stainless steel nozzle so I could print abrasive filaments. I want to print some "normal" filaments. Is it a good idea to switch over to a brass nozzle or can I just keep the stainless one on there?
>>
>>2076811
>just keep the stainless one on there
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>>2076684
>But in general, if you buy anything, you can transform it or use it in your project and resell it for however much you like.
millennials actually believe this
>>
>>2076690
Sure pal.
>>
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I made a thing. It keeps my kid's mattress from falling out.
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>>2076940
Is that OSHA regulated to be child safe if sucked on or poked at?
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Anyone doing lost wax/ printed "wax" casting?

I bought castable SLA resin, printed my thing, added a little wax to the print. I put the print in a steel box and cast investment plaster on it. I sealed the top of the steel box so i can pipe the fumes into an extractor. My problem is that the fumes condense on the walls of the fume extractor and stink up the place.
The fumes even condense (and drip back) on the inside pipe of the steel box too, but thats a minor problem compared to the previous.

Whats a good way to trap these fumes? Im thinking filters would clog up pretty fast.
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>>2076949
>I sealed the top of the steel box
found your problem
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>>2076946
it's fine
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>>2076940
Your kid is fucked m8
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>>2076946
>>2076978
OH SHIT OH SHIT THE FUMES! SHE'S DEAD!
>>
>>2076631
I mounted my Z endstop switch to my hotend and used something similar to an Allen key that I printed to trigger the probe. Only problem was that I had to deploy and stow the probe manually. It worked OK I think. The Allen key probe used to be pretty common on 3d printers so you should be able to find instructions pretty easily.
>>
>>2076911
One of the main reasons I ask is because I heard you get lower quality surfaces with the stainless steel nozzle but I don't have enough experience to say if that is actually the case or not. I guess it kind of sucks because of its heating/cooling properties but I wouldn't say that my surfaces are low quality. I'll probably end up with plated copper nozzles eventually.
>>
What do you guys think of this?
https://www.biqu.equipment/products/1pcs-new-3d-v6-integrated-brass-nozzle-with-m7-throat-0-2-0-4-0-8mm-bore-4-1mm-3d-v6-nozzle-extruder-print-head-for-3-d-printer?_pos=7&_sid=e2f50799f&_ss=r&variant=32265517635
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>>2077062
Looks like a fucking nightmare to change. If it isn't a much heavier duty metal or atleast coated it wouldn't be worth the hassle. Also becomes a question of if BIQU manufacturing is smooth enough.

Actually even worse look how fucking massive the hole is. They expect a PTFE lining. Plus this ruins the point of a heatbreak since it will overheat backwards
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>>2077062
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>>2076618
jesus christ
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>>2077062
>one single piece of brass (~110 W/m*K) from tip to the heatbreak
>PTFE inside™
I fail to see the purpose of this.
>>
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FUCK
I swear this pattern is just trolling me now. What do I need to do to get better layer adhesion? I was printing at 215°C which is pretty high for PLA, isn't it? Infill was ~35%. Do I just need to go higher? The creator recommended around the infill percentage I used. Maybe it is just the infill pattern? Maybe not since it separated at the walls, too. What is a better infill pattern for adhesion?
I'm at my wit's end with this. I just wanted a stupid spool holder. If I print it again, IF, it will be the third fucking time.
>>
>>2077094
How much cooling are you running?
Most of my PLA stuff I print at 215C with no cooling and they're strong as fuck. At 235C they no longer break at the layer lines, it just breaks randomly like an injection molded piece.
>>
how does a HT-NTC100K thermistor attach to an ender 3 board?
>>
>>2077102
I have 2x 5015 blowers running at 100%... Maybe I should try with less cooling then. Yesterday I moved the motherboard case fan to the same plug as the hotend fan so I don't need to run the parts cooling fans to keep my motherboard cool anymore.
That's crazy you are printing at such a high temperature. Do you use cooling on bridges like for PETG? I haven't messed around with the fan settings really, just made some buttons in OctoPrint for 0-100% fan speed in 25% increments. I'll try your cooling tip, thanks anon.
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>>2077107
Doesn't it just plug in? I thiught you only needed the appropriate heating block for that one.
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>>2077126
dunno if you just hook it up to regular pins, I was looking at this one
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>>2077094
maybe you're having issues like the anon >>2074254 last thread? Is it breaking in the same place? Either way I'd use a different infill pattern. I'm quite partial to gyroid because I like gyroids.
>>
>>2077128
Which version of the motherboard do you have? Pretty sure you would need some kind of 2-pin JST connector although I'm not sure which one exactly. There are tons of them. But you can compare pictures to the kits they have or try some Google-fu. If you don't want to get the connector kit and optional crimping tool, you could always cut the wires from the old one and solder the new one on there (heat shrinking the solder, too).
>>
>>2077135
The surface actually looks really good, other than that single line which I am still investigating. I printed this vertically so maybe that has something to do with it. I'm using a 0.6mm nozzle and mostly default settings for that in SuperSlicer. I'm actually really surprised at the surface quality.
I haven't tried gyroid yet. Does it make a part flexible? This thing needs to be rigid since it will hold a spool on it.
>>
>>2077149
I have a JST-XH kit with a crimper don't know if that compatible, also it's the original ender 3 board I think those connectors match just didn't know if you just hook it up like that cause seems like a lot of heat
>>
>>2077151
Gyroid is rigid. Basically, its selling point is that (for forces in any of direction) it's the most stress resistant for the least material possible. I'm a gyroid shill. Big gyroid should be paying me.
>>
>>2077157
The cartridge side should be fine with the heat. If you are worried, you could wrap the area right passed the risk cartridge in kapton tape. I've seen some of them come like that. The other end shouldn't get hot at all though so it should be OK.
Also, you could gently remove the connector on the motherboard and put the female JST-XH there if they don't fit and you were feeling brave.
>>
Check out this belt driven Ender 3. Pretty cool mod, kind of wish I had seen this before installing dual Z leadscrews.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4243512
>>
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finally purchased a 3d printer today, should arrive on Wednesday. Im interested in making car and motorcycle parts, and using it to make molds for carbon fiber parts via vacuum infusion. Im a complete newb to everything except carbon/composites. So how did i do? Also wanted BLtouch but wanted to keep everything under $350usd.

Also any brand recommendations for ABS filament? All the brands on amazon had enough bad reviews to scare me away
>>
>>2077241
cancel that aluminum crap you dont need it and get a bl touch
prepare to get told by retards to buy stuff to fix theoretical problems that never happen.

I print abs on my stock printer no problems no enclosure I make foregrips for guns. I usually use hatchbox the cheap filaments are usually stringy messes but abs is hard to fuck up even for the chinese
>>
>>2077241
The only thing useful in that kit you got is the Capricorn tubing. You should look for the kit that comes with the tubing and blue cutter. You need the cuts on the tubing to be as close to flat as possible. The aluminum extruder is technically an upgrade to the plastic one that comes on the machine but there are way better options. I'm pretty sure the hotend in that kit is the same one under the shroud on the stock printer, too. If you want a good hotend, look for "v6 Gulfcoast Robotics" and make sure you get the 24V one. It should cost less than $30 for that and it's a good upgrade. You can also add a titanium heatbreak to the V6 for less than $15 I think. Something to consider for the next time you want to spend some money on your printer.
>>
>>2077251
you dont need a special cutter tardo just use the snips that come with the kit to cut the tube and then use the pointed end of the snip and stick it in the tube and rotate to make it round and and deburr it. this is one of the retards I mentioned trying to solve not existent problems
>>
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>>2076959
>>
>>2077253
You do you anon, I don't give a shit. I'm going to use the cutter because 1- I want 100% perpendicular cuts, 2- I like having tools for specific jobs, and 3- fuck you. Your method sounds like something a literal dumb ass would do.
>>
>>2077268
yeah reassure yourself why you wasted money on a fancy plastic razorblade holder because your too retarded to use snips to ream a hole
>>
My ender 3 arrived today, i thought it was going to include a kg of pla filament but instead it came with petg. Im totally unprepared for this, can it even use it effectively?
>>
>>2077271
It was like $3, get over it poorfag.
>>
>>2077311
just print it at 235C, it'll be fine
>>2076750
thank you and no, never uploaded the files anywhere
>>2077212
I can't see the problem this is fixing, I'd rather have adjustable motormounts or of of those printed decouplers to get rid of z-wobble
>>
>>2077123
>2 5015s at 100%
That's definitely overkill. Remember that for every bit of cooling you sacrifice layer adhesion, no matter the material. You need to strike the right balance for good and strong prints.
>Do you use cooling on bridges like for PETG?
I don't know yet, my 5015 coolers came a few days ago and I've yet to print any PETG with it. Thing is I switched to a titan aero 3 months back and I forgot to check what fans the ducts were made for. So yeah, I ended up running my printer for that long with absolutely no cooling. I got used to it and tuned slicer settings, used minimum layer time with lift head, bed cooling a bit after the first layer, and others.
Overhangs up to 50 degrees were okay, after that they start to lose quality quickly. Bridges were possible but quite shit. For the most part I was okay with this since I print functional parts with simple shapes so there aren't many areas affected and the extra adhesion is a great bonus.
>>
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Has anyone ever used these either for quick change systems or for extension cords from like fans and hotends and heatbreaks?
>>
>>2077245
>>2077251
>>2077253
>>2077268
>>2077271
>>2077313
Lol thank you, thank you both. Pretty anodized accessories have been cancelled and a hopefully genuine BLtouch has taken its place
>>
>>2077325
no those specifically but wagos work fine
>>
>>2077318
235 is ok for the ptfe tube?
>>
>>2077357
The standard tube is good for up to 240C, then it starts to bake itself slowly.
Capricorn tube can do up to 270C no problems.
>>
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What in the fuck
>>
>>2077212
why would you need belts on Z?
>>
>>2077325
I would not trust chink wagos.
First of all, they aren't much cheaper than original made-in-germany connectors.
Second, they often have steel inside instead of tinned copper or insufficient spring pressure and thus a house fire if used for house wiring.

But, yeah, I see no reason why it would not work. But they are bulky, compare fan connector and this thing.
>>
>>2077379
Fuck Autodesk
Embrace Solidworks
>>
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>>2077212
Is it quieter? What is the benefit? Looks cool.
>>
>>2077212
>heatsink on motor
looks like that chap really knows what hes doing
is he getting his knowledge from 2014 reprap threads?
>>
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>>2077390
I don't know how to solder or have the space to learn how to solder. These seem like a good pick because they'll allow quick change too.
Thanks man
>>
>>2077472
>no other versions found
haha anon why did you bake a spool of filament?
>>
>>2077459
>What is the benefit?
When it is done printing it can immediately sink the still hot hotend in the middle of your print
>>
>>2077487
Of course
>>
>>2077479
remove moisture
>>
>>2077498
well?
>>
>>2077503
>>2077498
If you try to dry your filament, and it melts into a liquid form, has it become more or less water logged?
>>
>>2077487
M109 R40 in the end Gcode
You're welcome
>>
>>2077472
3d printed angel food cake
>>
>>2077325
I was reading about something called pogo pins for use in a quick change system, maybe look in to those if you want to use an actual connector.
>>
>>2077517
>implying all prints reach the end code all the time
>>
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Why do ABS/ASA seem to leak or burn so easily? I've had multiple times where the thread between the heatblock and nozzle leak on these materials, but TPU and PLA are fine. I also tend to end up with some black drips on the print from the leaked stuff burning around the nozzle.

Prints come out mostly fine though and super stronger. I've even got capricorn tubing and am not printing stupid hot (generally 240), so its not like its melting the tube or anything.
>>
>>2077562
It leaks around the nozzle thread because shit doesn't expand evenly with temperature. Heat up to your ABS temps and tighten it well.
The black zits are from excess material that sticks to the nozzle and falls off later. Could be either overextrusion or too close first layer.
>>
>get pre-supported model
>scale it down
>run print, scaled down supports work like an absolute dream, just perfect performance in every way
>crack out the callipers, take measurements of these miracle supports to emulate them in dimensions and density
>all prints fail
why must it be this way
>>
>>2076954
Keep reading, perhaps look at the image.
>>
Both solidworks and inventor hurt the eyes if you're used to fusion
>>
>>2077572
put the steel box in an even bigger box and use a regular sized fan to evac the fumes i think using the tube is just asking for the fumes to condense
>>
>>2077588
when you really git gud you don't need eyes to see
you'll know you have mastered the software when you create the final macro, the macro that completes the loop and takes the human out of the equation, just software creating models to its own whims and desires
>>
>>2077567
I did heat the block and nozzle before tightening, but maybe I wasn't torquing it hard enough out of caution to not effect the heatbreak.
>>
>>2077472
>I'M GONNA EXTROOOOOOD!!!
>>
>>2077379
There's been a bug with the newest update where the license says it expires early but says it's still active on the website; I don't remember how to fix it but I'm pretty sure it's fixable
>>
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Finally got my last linear rail from China!!! The ender 6 only needs an all metal hotend!!! I'm addicted it's a crisis lol
>>
>>2077472
Reverse image search comes up with nothing... Anon... What the fuck did you do? You don't bake filament roflmao this is epic!!! Invest in a dehydrator... My sides are in orbit!!!
>>
>>2077636
are you the genius using xa rails on a 3d printer that doesnt even come nearly close enough in accuracy to benefit from xa rails or a different anon?
>look at the pirellis i put on my geo metro
>>
>>2077650
Yeah. There's nothing wrong with xa rails. At least mine were completely fine. I rolled the dice and won the lottery I suppose.
>>
>>2077650
You mean like this? How did you know it was me?!? That's fucking creepy.
>>
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Newfag here, I can't get my prints to not be fucked, but it only happens on the right side.

>Ender 3v2
>pm-filament's PLA+
>Latest stable Cura
>200C first layer, 190C for the rest, bed at 70C
>Tried tightening a bunch of shit, messing with flow rate, temperature, layer height

Nothing works. Can someone help me?
>>
>>2077667
Looks like your layer cooling fan isn't working. It'll be the one on the right. Check your wiring.
>>
>>2077472
imagine the smell
>>
>>2077667
your bed is too hot it will do all kinds of weird stuff to pla
60 is plenty
>>
>>2077670
70 is fine, his cooling fan isn't working.
>>
>>2077668
Trying now, will report back
>>
>>2077671
That doesn't sound credible to me. The cooling fan isn't that important, and it's absence certainly shouldn't cause a complete fucking meltdown at only 200 degrees. My money's on some kind of extrusion rate problem
>>
>>2077667
>>2077677
Could he be running with a bad thermistor?
>>
>>2077668
When should the side fan start going? At the very beginning or only after a while
>>
>>2077685
That is set by the slicer.
>>
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>>2077667
Fan is indeed still. Dunno is that's because of the firmware or hardware

>>2077687
Screen was reporting it was going but it was still
>>
>>2077689
I've been printing since the 90s. Check your voltages and wiring.
>>
>>2077691
Will do tomorrow. Thank you again, I've been printing way to many cubes but it seems you're right. I thought it might be the fan, changed fan speed but never thought it might just straight up not work
>>
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I'm working on a school project and hit a wall. Anybody have any advice or designs on some gears to use and how I can stand it up? The biggest problem is really standing it up and connecting the little motor.
>>
>>2077710
Where did you get the rotary engine model
>>
>>2077689
The hotend fan should run all the time but the part cooling fan (that smaller one you exposed there) will only run during a print at a rate usually determined by the slicer. Also it is so small and weak it will probably not turn at all if it's set anywhere below ~80%
>>
I'm pretty sure it was set as 100% and didn't spin, + showed running at 100% and wasn't running irl
It's late, it'll try to work on it tomorrow
>>
>>2077710
>stand it up
?
>>
>>2077717
Thingiverse. They don't actually teach CAD, just want us to do a project with 3d printing that moves.
>>
>>2077710
Did your block fail or did you take it off early? It looks half done. Your pistons are going to be shaking all over the place without the extra bits to hold them in the cylinder.

Regardless: I've printed this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2995199 without issue before, a 30:1 reduction is probably a good idea for that little motor and it comes in a body which you could use as a base for making a stand.
>>
>>2077653
What are XA rails anyways?
>>
Is it worth paying the xtra sheckels for a BONDTECH TM BMG dual gear drive extruder?
>>
>>2077802
not really you will have tards telling you have to have it but I have printed just about everything with the stock ender 3v2 extruder

this hobby is full of retards that waste their money then spend their time reassuring themselves they did not waste their money
>>
Is there a good free CAD solution or is it a GIMP like situation where it sort of works but everything is retarded?
>>
>>2077813
Fusion 360 is good
Or you could stop being a pillock and just torrent Solidworks like all the cool kids
>>
>>2077474
Soldering is easy. Flux (rosin, some paste), it cleans metals. And solder, it wets and fuses metals
Electronics solder has rosin inside the solder usually. Use leaded solder (60 tin /40 lead or 63/37) for best result. Lead free is expensive and is weaker.
There are better connectors available that you can solder on... But if you don't want to solder, wagos (or even wago clones) would do, but they are too big I think.
>r or have the space to learn how to solder.
What do you mean?
>>
>>2077817
>Fusion 360 is good
Thought they gimped the free version recently?
>>
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Aww shit it's done!!! At least until I get a new hotend! It's so amazing... There's nothing better feeling than a job well done!
>>
>>2077811
Well I mean my stock gear drive shit out so i am wondering it it is worth getting an official one or getting a knock off one, or if anyone here has any recommended off brand ones.
>>
>>2077833
It's still good, it's only gimped if you're doing "advanced" shit like analysis or manufacturing-related things. The modeling suite is still completely fine and full-featured
>>
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>>2077857
The linear rails don't increase the quality of my prints but it definitely helped increase the speed. Pic related was printed at 150mm/s at 0.1mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle.
>>
Is it a bad idea to do only 1 shell line? Messing with a .6 nozzle now and have a .8 as well. Doing just 1 extra heavy outer line seems sufficient, but if theres any jitter or something I assume it could lead to gaps or weakness.

Also how does bridging work with larger nozzles, better due to thickness, or less due to weight pulling it down? Curious how infill percentages may need to vary
>>
>>2077923
It'll fall apart
>>
So has anyone ever been so much as far to do as like a couch arm dice tower?

Playing at my buddy's and we'll be sitting back on couches, so I was thinking of a chill dice tower made to go over the curve and down the arm.
>>
>>2077162
Well I reprinted it with gyroid infill. You didn't tell me that it was the noisiest infill! I did like 50% and it feels much more solid. Haven't installed it yet so I'm not sure how it will hold up but I have high hopes.
>>
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Reprinted spool holder. The layer lines look much more prominent. I added spacers between both sides of both Z motors that are touching the frame. I wonder what I can do to tune this. Maybe the motors are just too much out of alignment, I don't know.
Also, what is up with the corner on the left side? I haven't seen these wort of lines before. Granted, I generally print pretty short objects.
It looks almost blurry. So I need to figure out what is causing the horizontal banding and what is causing the long vertical lines near the corner. Any ideas anons?
>>
>two months waiting for item to restock
>a fucking leaf website has had an identical item in stock the entire time
everyday I contemplate hitting that checkout button and it haunts me
>>
>>2077802
the clones are cheap and work well get one of those
>>
>>2077788
i think it maybe either means that the rails are above a quality like double plus a quality or it has to do with the orientation of the rail
>>
>>2077636
Nice! What company did you buy them from?
>>
>>2077570
Some slicers let you cut the model, like SuperSlicer and presumably Slic3r and Prusa Slicer. It only let's you cut on the Z axis though. I haven't tried it yet, but I think if you made a cut, then rotated, made a cut, and so on until you isolated the part it would work like that.
>>
>>2078041
Amazon cheap rails 350mm. Reliabot. They come with extra bearings and don't bind up.
>>
>>2078077
$22 per rail. Good quality.
>>
>>2077318
>I can't see the problem this is fixing
not everything has to solve a problem
if i told you it would solve the problem of you being an autistic faggot would you print it then?
>>
>>2077802
Does the stock extruder work?
If yes, don't upgrade.

Are you experiencing slipping, skipping and shit? Is the extruder a shitty Titan clone made entirely of plastic and tears of Chinese child slave workers?

Get a BMG. I've picked up a clone from Ali, made entirely out of metal. It works a lot better.
If you want to spend the buck for the insurance of a quality product (not saying some of the clones aren't great, but you'll be making sure you get a great one) get a genuine. Or if you like the sticker and nylon printed housing.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
>>
>>2077832
My bedroom is my workshop/hobby area.
Adding fumes from soldering and or hot iron to my flamable environment doesn't strike me as a good idea.
Already got crimping tools but the Ender 6 has a long ass wire for everything, and doesn't have a breakout board in the housing for the carriage. Ideally I'd cut the stock ones and solder on new ones, but I think connectors like that would be better for upgradeability since you just unhook the component and place in a new one.
>>
>>2078097
the fuck do you let in your air that a soldering iron would start on fire????????
>>
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>>2078097
You do not own an ender 6. They have a breakout board. Why do you lie to us anon? You must be 18 to post here. Fucking leave. I hate liars. Come back when you're ready to apologize and not lie anymore.
>>
>>2078116
The lens work on that photo... Good Lord my sides, this mother fucker hates liars so much he busted out a high end macro lens just to prove a point. I fucking love 4chan... Never change! Roflmao... My sides are in orbit!
>>
>>2078084
still no, since I don't have a problem this thing would fix
>>2077967
have you done a pid-autotune for your hotbed?
>>2077650
jokes on you, good tires are the first upgrade to noticeably improve any car. also the rails are there to improve reliably in the first place
>>
>>2078127
Not him, but that looks way overcomplicated. 2 motors will be infinitely better.
>>
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Anyone know more about the BIQU H2? Is it all metal? It does not specifically state so.

https://www.3djake.com/biqu/h2-extruder
>>
>>2078131
It's all metal. Titanium heat break. Read down a little bit lol
>>
>>2076465
Thought only ABS was bad
>>
>>2076390
Looks more like a non manifold edge than a pause error to me.
>>
>>2078132
huh? I can't find that at all.
>>
>>2077318
>I can't see the problem this is fixing, I'd rather have adjustable motormounts or of of those printed decouplers to get rid of z-wobble
Do you have an example of both of these? I've been fighting my stupid Z axis for a while now and need a good solution.
>>
aaaaaaaaaaaaargh 13 hour print and everything is completely stuck to the raft, why oh why did I set my bed so hot
>>
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I want to print this gear but SuperSlicer wants to make the top layer solid. What settings do I need to change to fix this?
>>
>>2078103
Only table I've got is flammable and there's a lot of wood cladding- just would like to avoid soldering if I can.
>>
wish there were non shiny variants of petg
>>
>>2078226
Think that is an inherent property of the material.
Some pigments might help against that
>>
>>2078231
Yeah I find black PETG looking disgusting, doing some orange now and it's ok.
>>
>>2078189
huh thats weird, use the cut tool to lop off the very top of that model. Im guessing in 3d editor view it shows all of that space as empty right?
>>
>>2078189
>superslicer
>>
My fellow yuro's, never buy REAL filament. I'm going through a spool right now with more knots in it than your granddad's pubes.
>>
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>>2078189
I love this little fucking gear. Its a fun fidget toy at my desk, and the more you use it the smoother it gets as it breaks down the little but of flash in the mechanism. The look of the line texture on gears and stuff is super interesting as well, and the metallic filaments make it super pronounced
>>
>>2077755
It failed while printing.
I'll try out what you sent, gonna probably glue the back of the radial engine to it and put a gear and belt to the motor. I appreciate it man, I'll let you know how it goes
>>
>>2078313
Yes very empty, it's strange.

>>2078332
I guess I could check Cura or something else but I'm trying to move to SuperSlicer.

>>2078365
The one I want to print is a filament guide but if it works I want one for my desk, too. Really neat gear.
>>
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Man fuck PLA. Finally got this print to turn out well on the sidewinder and the second to smallest orb broke trying to snap the smallest into place. Shits too brittle for moving stuff under tension
>>
>>2078397
I thought too high of heat caused it to become more brittle. I could be wrong.
>>
>>2078361
Lol, you dun goofed somehow. We buy a dozen spools or so every month for ours students, never had any of them tangle. Same for Makerpoint and Colorfabb, but they are significantly more expensive. The 123-3d stuff did get a few tangles and I had one spool of filament literally shatter due to some wierd treatment issue.
>>
>>2078414
I didn't goof, how is that even possible? Even after several layers have been unwound and the strand is stuck underneath other strands.
>>
>>2078397
Those silky metallic looking PLAs are known to be much more brittle than normal PLA
>>
>>2076436
Did you get the rc car from solidworks? A dune buggy looking thing?
>>
>>2078415
>I didn't goof, how is that even possible?
Whenever my students come up with tangled spools it's either cheapass filament or they managed to wind it back poorly. I've never seen name brand filament tangled from the factory because the big industrial companies have a setup that physically prevents tangling.
Release tension on the topmost layers, and then shove the top layers off the spool sideways. Don't just unwind the spool because you'll keep moving the tangle downstream. Once you've pushed the tangled filament off, have someone hold it while you turn to wind the spool, carefull to keep tension on the filament. Fixes the issue 99 of the time. What printer by the way? In some cases the filament can hop off the spool and wrap itself crosswise.
>>
>>2078420
You weren't here, the tangles were in the spool and there was more than one. REAL is shit.
>>
>>2078097
>Adding fumes from soldering and or hot iron to my flamable environment doesn't strike me as a good idea.
Don't you have windows? I'm pretty sure off-gassing from plastic when 3D printing aren't much better than rosin fumes.
As for fire hazard, worry not. It is hard to start a fire with soldering iron. I think only thing that will light up from soldering iron in household is a match.
No, seriously. Synthetic fabric? Will just melt. Cotton, paper, wood and other similar stuff - you must be a complete retard to start a fire with those.
>>
>>2078438
My understanding is pla and petg fumes are non toxic
>>
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>>2078438
Shut up, rosin fumes are based.
>>
>>2078419
no, is it in their online library or something?
I'd take some of their files for reference, started from blank now
>>
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hey guys, can someone help me here.

I have a new two trees sapphire pro and basically it wont extrude no matter what I do, the motor just wont move just nothing happens.
First of all the rest of the machine works fine, just the extruder so I thought the motor was broken, I tested it and it works fine checked the cable for damge and it works fine, so I thought its a firmware issue changed/updated it and still no difference to extruder, the rest works fine so I thought the main board might be damaged, replaced the old one and still no difference so then I thought it must be step module, tested it and it also works perfectly fine.
so now what do i do? i have a fairly new 3d printer that dosent work, does anyone know if theres something im missing?
also to clarify i havey even tryed just runing a pirint it just wont extrude.
pic very related
>>
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The Artillery Sidewinder really makes my cr10v2 look like shit. It was a nightmare to get going after rebuilding the extruder with capricorn tubing and a metal lever, and then flashing firmware for bltouch and getting everything working again. Once it gets going through the direct drive and volcano hotend fly and really minimize clogging issues.
>>
>>2078438
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind!
>>
>>2078460
>direct drive and volcano hot end
lmao both are mods you could have done to your cr10v2 and you would have had like $350 left over
>>
>>2078466
Except now I have two printers I can use in tandem?
>>
>>2078440
Yeah but if you use chink printers there's certainly some fumes from PTFE and god knows what else stuck around your hotend as well
>>
>>2078484
Not really an issue for pla and petg. Could be for abs
>>
>>2078468
if we're going by that metric you could have had like 4 ender 3's by now for the same amount of money. come on anon get your head in the game
>>
>>2078508
But I like my build volumes. The main reason I even got filament prints was because I hated how small my elegoo mars build area was.
>>
>>2078456
It might be set where the hotend must be to temp before the extruder stepper motor will turn
You might want to test a different stepper in its place. 2 tests.
1. Connect say the Z stepper cable to the extruder stepper motor and see if commanding Z to move does anything
2. Connect the extruder stepper motor to a different stepper cable port on the mobo and see if commanding that axis causes the stepper to turn.
Is the machine stock or did you add the dual drive extruder? What about stepper motors, did you replace the extruder one?
>>
>>2078532
yeah ive already tested out everything you recomended, i bougth another motor and tested that aswell the same make, the motors move fine with the stock cables but for some unknow reason just wont move, the original dual drive is stock, i am genuily stumpt on what can be done now.
>>
>>2078534
have you hooked it up to a pc yet? If so, try sending m302 s0 to disable cold extrusion prevention, then try to extrude something (without filament loaded)
also did you check if the filament runout sensor isn't triggering a false positive?
>>
>>2078445
Shit I'm dumb I meant a solidworks file from thingiverse.
>>
How bad did I fuckup when I got the powder coated sheet for my Prusa mk3 when I'm planing to use it for PLA??? The site clearly says it for more exotic materials but I missed that part somehow
>>
My little planter pot inserts came out rough, but they'll do.
What's happening on the right here? The printer seems to take a shortcut between the holes on some layers instead of properly following the wall.
>>
>>2078556
It's not catching the filament on the surrounding areas, so it drags it along the path until it does catch. Not a pathing problem, potentially a small filament diameter problem
>>
>>2078534
>the motors move fine with the stock cable
This doesn't make sense because you said it "just won't move". I get the feeling you are either a troll or a brainlet, possibly both. Sorry anon.
>>
>>2078547
>>2078563
thanks mate for your recommendations
however i have everything you provided in the past.
just now i fixed it in an unbelievable way.

i was thinking something dumb
i thought mabye its not working because the cable is too long so i got a short cable and lol now it works
>>
Satin sheets for prusa are back in stock in case anyone cares.
>>
>>2078616
What are even good options for build plates or sheet covers? The default textured plates work nicely, but cleaning them with alcohol seems to give an orange good so I assume its a coating slowly wearing down so it will need glue or w/e extra reapplied.

I would like some flat glass or something for super smooth finishes potentially as well, but worry about adhesion
>>
>slice random object
>go to print it on ender 3
>printer does nothing, not mesh leveling, etc
>extruder starts going mach 10 and grinds through filament

why tho
>>
>>2078703
That seems to happen if your printer is in relative movement mode when you start a print. If you restart, it will go back to absolute movement. Alternatively you can run G90 followed by G92 E0
>>
Hey I got the print in place Iris box to work. Only took like 20 minutes to get the last fucking leaf to release and let it move

[jk]Fucking leafs[/jk]
>>
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Will installing MOSFETs allow my bed to heat up faster? I'm sick and tired of having to wait 10-15 minutes to get to 110C.
>>
>>2078812
preheat the bed with a blowtorch
>>
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>>2076465
>hurr the fumes will give you cancer
>thinks nothing of cooking on PTFE coated pan
>thinks nothing of breathing in exhaust fumes
>thinks nothing of the california cancer warning placed on fucking everything
>thinks nothing of the great possibility of LITERAL CANCER FROM THE FUCKING SUN
I'll take my chances with my FDM printer's """"fumes""""
>>
>>2078819
>thinks nothing of getting cancer through this fucking website
>>
fuck 3d printing and fuck 3d printers
>>
>>2078840
>His dick is small enough to fit into a nozzle
>>
>>2078131
it comes with a PTFE heatbreak, titanium is bought seperate
QC on em is shit, and gears are crappy china steel and will die after a year.
>>
I guess I need to tune my printer more. I did concentric bottom and top layers (filled) because I thought it would look the coolest. Well, I was just going to observe the first layer and then let the print to but look at this.
Lines touching? Check
Too much plastic in random places? Check
Holes where there shouldn't be any? Check
I enjoy this hobby a lot but sometimes all this tuning and configuring gets to me. I know I just have to figure out the settings once but it's still a pain in the ass. Especially since I'm down to my last bit of this spool and the manufacturer is current out of it.

>>2078313
That worked. Even though the model appeared OK, cutting off the top three layers let me send it to my printer normally. It's really strange. I messed with so many of my settings today and I couldn't find anything that would make a difference. I'm missing something I just don't know what. I did check the model in Cura and the offending layers did not show up so it's some setting in SuperSlicer.
>>
>>2078553
>PLA prints with a small contact area may need a brim
>PLA prints with a huge footprint may warp
From their listing for PEI steel sheets.
You should be OK.
>>
>>2078619
>but worry about adhesion
I've tried glue sticks and hairspray on mirror glass. The hairspray was by far the easiest to apply. It also works great and doesn't fuck up the smooth texture. I really recommend it and I'm sure a lot of other people are would, too. A pack of mirror glass, a glass cutter, and a can of hairspray shouldn't cost more than $20-25. The mirrors are pretty fragile which is one down side, plus they have sharp corners and edges unless you take them down with something like a sharpening stone.
>>
>>2078812
if you stay at 12/24V then no, it you switch to a 110/230V hotbed then very yes
>>
>>2078812
No but you could buy another PSU and the use it exclusively for the bed.
>>
>>2078945
>I enjoy this hobby a lot but sometimes all this tuning and configuring gets to me. I know I just have to figure out the settings once but it's still a pain in the ass.

My impression as well. I wonder if there's any hobbyist-level printer out there that will print well with only very minimal, well-documented tuning procedure, and no upgrades needed.
>>
>>2078945
Make the bed a bit on the closer side so you squish the plastic nice and well and you get no gaps and very good adhesion. Remove the resulting elephant foot with a deburring tool.
Easiest method I've found and you don't have to calibrate all that shit to perfection.
>>
>>2078973
ender v2 prints everything without much hassle the only thing you need special settings for is tpu
>>
>mfw only now discovered the magic trick of abs
>fill jar half full with acetone
>add all your supports to the jar till it turns to a paste

fucking magic body filling glue it drys to hard abs
>>
>>2078976
I have an enderv2 and it cant do good overhangs or mechanical print in place stuff. Waiting for fans and blowers to arrive so I can upgrade ducting, hopefully i dont need anything else.

All in all its not too bad, still wish there's something even more straightforward tho.
>>
>>2078988
there is but you gotta pay big boy bucks with lots of 0s
>>
>>2078988
The 4010 fan is not very powerful but should be good enough if you print slowly. The only other requirement is that you print a duct for it since the stock one is beyond retarded.
>>
>>2078989
surely there's something that sits between $300 and $5000+
>>
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>>2078988
What?
Here's what my E3 Pro can do. Hard mode: It's ABS.
>>
>>2078988
the trick to print in place stuff is to run everything as cold as you can
>>
>>2078993
Nobody gives a shit, animefag. Kys yourself.
>>
>>2078991
thanks but I already clicked buy on some blowers and fans, fingers crossed it makes things a bit quieter as well. Got a set of petsfang ducts printed already since apparently hero me needs some Y? offset adjustment - which isnt hard, but I'll try the one without adjustment first

>>2078993
looks good desu, might try. Which stl?

>>2078995
How cold shoud I go for extruder and bed temps? Using esun PLA+ for now
>>
>>2078998
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2766805
You need to sink the model into the build plate a bit since the tail is longer than her feet.

>>2078996
>t. buttblasted Prüså owner
>>
>>2076555
Try drying your filament?
>>
>>2078097
I have a printer and a soldering station in my bedroom. But then again, I also have a window, so it's all good.
>>
>>2078998
it really depends on the filament play with the temps on the hotend manually feeding it and go as low as you can till it starts skipping
bed temp like 45c
>>
>>2078219
What's the point of the plexi if the print starts at the very top anyway?
>>
>>2079006
keeps drafts off cold air is low pressure hot air is high pressure so the hot air column keeps the cold air out
>>
>>2078616
I'm fine with smooth and textured ATM. I really ever grab the textured one out of desperation, when thin features curl up and I don't want the brim cleanup, or when I specifically want the finish, which is rare. The stock PEI has been working out great for PLA, PETG and TPU as well. I've never used gluestick or anything like that.
>>
>>2078973
>I wonder if there's any hobbyist-level printer out there that will print well with only very minimal, well-documented tuning procedure, and no upgrades needed.
For me, it's the Prusa Mk3s.
>>
Ender3 dragon hotend+BMG, printing at 0.12 and I'm getting this horizontal banding, what can I do to reduce it?
>>
So I printed this x axis damper mount for my ender 3, but it moves the x axis end switch to where the micro swiss carriage won't hit it.

Short of me just hot glueing the switch to the x stepper, can anybody point me to an stl that would alleviate this problem?
>>
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>>2079026
fuck
>>
so micro center finally paid out on my old laptop
best warranty's btw I bought a laptop 8 years ago and every 2 years I just warranty for a new one but this time I just got a 400$ netbook so with the other 400 I bought a shitton of filaments of all types and a microswiss extruder hotend combo but god dam its a lot of shit to do to put it together
>>
>>2079026
Just print a little arm to reach out and tap it
>>
>>2079026
Do you need a mount? I didn't need one for the x-axis damper.
>>
>>2079035
mine with press on pulleys doesn't line up with the belt without a mount, but i might need to just nut up and buy replacement pulleys
>>
>>2079013
Honestly curious about this but it seems to trigger shitstorms here similar to macs in /g/ so I avoid mentioning it

>>2079004
Thanks, there's no escaping tweaking filaments I guess.

>>2079000
>use lots of supports for the hair and face
Been wondering about printing figurines; is cura tree supports a good option here? Regular supports will sit on the figures themselves and I'm not so happy about that.
>>
>how do I fix my [insert chinker issue here]?
>[insert chink printer here] are so cheap that I went and spent three times more on "upgrades" to make it remotely usable
love these threads desu
>>
>>2079052
>Honestly curious about this but it seems to trigger shitstorms here similar to macs in /g/ so I avoid mentioning it

Obviously it's overpriced in most respects, but you pay for the attention, fiddling and research man-hours you save. To narrow the discussion down, like 80% of the discussion in these threads is about upgrades. Upgrades you buy, upgrades you print. I wanted to specifically not get into the rabbit hole of printing things for my printer so I can print things better for my printer, that's one of the reasons I shelled out. What bought parts and capabilities are people talking about the most here?
>direct drive
>bondtech gears
>dual Z
>ABL
>200mm/s
>silent stepper drivers
>linear rails/ground rods with recirculating roller bearings
>flexible PEI steel sheet beds

The Mk3s has all of these things out of the box. I didn't even have to think about most of these things even once, I concentrated on modeling and printing things for myself instead of the printer. It's a kit with a brand name attached, so you can put together a more powerful and accurate printer for less, obviously. With a lot of dedication and shopping around, if that's what you want. It's not what I wanted.
>>
>>2079064
Finally a non-shit meme take on Průša.
Don't get me wrong, I hate them and the drones that follow Průša's tail wherever he fucking goes, but this is a sane take.
>>
>>2079052
>>2079064
Oh, and to expand a bit, I never adjusted any temperatures from the PrusaSlic3r profiles, ever. I've only got the printer for about half a year, so only a couple rolls of filament went through it, but so far the library has been accurate. The only thing I had to change were the maximum flow rates before the profiles officially supported 0.8 nozzles. I'm only now getting into very accurate fitments in my own parts, and I'm getting digital calipers too. I think the only thing I will need to dial in is first layer extrusion width and elephant footing, though, I've been working with 0.1 clearances for interference fits from the start.
>>
>>2079058
>how do I fix my [insert $1000+ issue here]?
>>
>>2079078
You do the true diy thing, make a warranty claim.
>>
>>2079058
Why you lying, nig?
Ender 3 and another 100$ of upgrades get you to Prusa level for half the price. I also get a 3D printer made of metal, not plastic.
>>
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>>2079081
Oh look, he's still here.
>>
What's the best way to fuck a Prusa? I want to coom inside my Prusa.
>>
>>2079064
>>2079069
This is a very reasonable take, thank you for typing all of that out. Sounds like exactly what I wanted for my next printer since I'd rather spend more time in solidworks than slicing or tweaking the thing. Kinda curious what the prusaxl will end up like.


>>2079066
I don't see many prusa drones here, where do they congregate so I can avoid them?
Also, is it just me or does prusa sounds a bit... cult-y? Not even apple has steve jobs' name and face plastered everywhere you look. Feels a bit unnerving desu, seems like someone who will end up having a sex scandal or something uncovered in the future.
>>
Too close or too far?
>>
>>2079091
The problem with Průša I have most is that their promo material and marketing makes them out to be the best thing since sliced bread and Průšafags gobble that shit up.
>>
>>2079092
Close.
>>
>>2079092
>>2079114
Also check skin overlap percentage with outer wall.
>>
Hey all, first post here.

After printing a usable AR-15 lower, I cannot get a single layer to form on my build plate for anything else. I have tried re-leveling like 10 times, as well as adjusting my z-stop and it's driving me insane. I can't get single layer to form without it just dragging all over the plate.

What should I do, and do I *need* a BLTouch?
>>
>>2079117
Clean your build plate and level as it prints the skirt or brim. Leveling by paper is not the most accurate method, it's much better to see the results of your leveling in real time.
BLTouch is not absolutely necessary, but it is a time saver. Your bed only needs to be leveled close enough, the BLtouch does the rest.
>>
>>2079127
Any good files to leveling as you print? I've been using a "bed leveler" gcode for paper leveling.

Gonna go clean my plate soon.
>>
>>2079097
so prusa is to 3d printer what macs are to computers
this explains a whole lot
>>
>>2079130
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA
This guy covers the entire procedure, files are in description.
>>
>>2078993
4 inches is not impressive when printing ABS, I'd like to see you print something like a vase or a prop in ABS and see how that goes for you. Quality is not the hard part lol
>>
>>2079130
if you haven't cleaned the plate yet at all this is 100% your problem. Hot plastics are super sensitive to grease and oil build up and absolutely will not stick to a bed that hasn't been wiped down with a solvent
>>
>>2079133
okay, this looks good. gonna try this after breakfast
>>
>>2079137
is iso alcohol best? or Windex? or Simple Green
>>
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>>2079135
>'d like to see you print something like a vase or a prop in ABS and see how that goes for you
Already did, it went quite well.
>>
Yay, just finished building my ender 3
>>
>>2079140
What I use is a clean dish washing sponge, hot water and dish washing soap. Then I clean with warm water again and dry with paper towels.
>>
>>2078993
you coomer piece of shit fuck off with that garbage
>>
>>2079133
>>2079184

I just used iso alcohol because it was right by my feet, but I'll do that next time.

Currently running this CHEP stuff, his bed leveler (no print) isn't working but I already had a similar gcode on my SD card.

Now I'm having another issue: the extruder isn't gripping filament.
>>
>>2079217

>>2079137 here, I use iso every time. I don't think washing with water and soap and using a sponge is your best idea. And if you aren't using distilled water you'd risk leaving minerals and other shit behind as well. Hence why I said the world solvent. Anything thats good at cleaning grease and oil without leaving residue
>>
>>2079224
Not that guy but cleaning a textured glass plate with soap and water and wiping it down with a paper towel works very well. I use IPA to clean it every couple of prints or so but I take it off to give it a proper washing once a week.
>>
AR-15 anon here. Wondering if by following a guide and elevating my z-stop switch a bit if that messed things up?

Should you push it down to where the notch meets the bottom, or hold it up to where gravity has your hot end fall?
>>
>>2079236
Push it down as low as it can go. You can then tighten the bed nuts to make the bed drop in height. It's actually recommended to keep the bed nuts as tight as possible because they have a tendency of slowly working themselves loose while printing.
>>
>>2079239
push the z-stopper, you mean? sorry
>>
>>2076520
go suck off biden when he says 3d printers are banned by EO
>>
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I need a detachable flat plate on the bottom corner of this. Not sure how to make it work effectively so it's not flexible but also detaches. It slots in from the top.

Thoughts?
>>
>>2079235
Why would you need to wash it with soap so often? Grease leaking out of the hot plastics or are you handling the fuck out of it for some reason?
>>
Lol, this is beyond me. I can only get traces of this >>2079133 square to print. Nothing is sticking. I'm wondering if the nozzle is messed up. I don't think it's jamming.
>>
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Why is gyroid infill and tree supports so sexy?
>>
>>2079250
I use PVA glue on my glass and that gathers dirt and shit over time, if I'd just resurface it I wouldn't get much more life out of it. It's easier to just wash it and spread a new layer of glue on the glass.
>>
Printed a small 1.5 inch owl on the default files i got from my ender 3 v2

Next item was the Low Poly Vase.
About 2.5 - 3inches

Ordered a 3 pack of Copper /Gold / Silver Silky pla
And printed a 8 inch low poly vase

Actively printing one of those slugs tiktok was on about.
2 Hour print.


Really happy i jumped on this 3d printing stuff.
its fun to see it go from a spool to a bunch of lines to a real object.

What are some prints yall recommend i do?
>>
>>2078975
I've generally been leveling my bed daily. The bed goes through probably a dozen heating and cooling cycles per day which I'm sure doesn't help. I put insulation on the bottom of it but my springs are touching the backside of that so I'm sure that doesn't help. I should probably cut the insulation away where the springs are so they actually touch the bed, that might help with the daily leveling. It's not hard because I use Klipper's assistant for that. I haven't played with the nozzle to probe offset recently so maybe I'll try that to make the bed closer since I don't have a Z endstop switch.
>>
likelihood of the Neptune 2 actually being $160 and available?
>>
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>>2079261
I suggest you print some bed leveling locks, since the wheels do come loose over time otherwise.
I use pic related and they're really good. They're no longer on thingiverse unfortunately, you have to download dolphin porn instead.

https://mega.nz/file/1VlGkLAJ#RYDLLd9na_r0YI5ANaQmOKlC7O5SrZ1p7_EG6mcGh3I
>>
Is there a good 3d print solution for preventing spools from unraveling? When I unload the filament never reaches the hole in the spool correctly to hold off, and even if it does it sticks out the hole or ends up bent and a bit needing to be cut off next use.
>>
>>2079253
gyroid is weak and a waste of time
>>
>>2079273
>a bit needing to be cut off next use
filament is very cheap for a consumable, you're trying to save half a penny at most from leaving your wallet.

Try making something that clips on to the edge of your spools to retain the very end of the filament. Or just try using fucking google and 10 million people have made the very thing you want already
>>
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>>2079116
Thanks anon, z-hopped a little and set the offset in the firmware.
Also what exactly am I looking for when you mention skin overlap? My first layer is 200% so that might make my settings look a little off
>>
>>2079281
I was asking if someone has a good solution to suggest, since theres so much random crap of people trying it that its hard to say what solutions are decent
>>
>>2079255
>What are some prints yall recommend i do?
Something you modeled yourself
>its fun to see it go from a spool to a bunch of lines to a real object.
Even better when you start with an idea
>>
>>2079255
Model something really basic in a CAD program. Use primitives, it doesn't need to be a full-blown mockup. Make a ghetto trophy or something
>>
>>2076379
So I've finally damaged my last nozzle and that leaves me without any functional ones. I'm looking at amazon, and they all seem to be inaccurate garbage. I might just go with the micro swiss mk8, but I've had a bad experience with their all metal heatbrake for printing just PLA/PETG.
Any idea where I can get decent 0.4mm mk8 nozzles?
>>
>>2078812
>110C
What are you printing that you've got the bed going that hot?
Even ABS I get it at 60~75 without any warping.
>>
>>2079282
Z-hop... I ment babystepped
>>
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>>2079310
>Even ABS I get it at 60~75 without any warping.
>>
>>2079064
>200mm/s
>on a mk3
Either you've done considerable upgrades or you're running pretty much stock accels leading to no significant increase in speed.
>>
>>2079313
I've played with accels once, but most of the time I just crank up the speed with the dials which affects acceleration as well.
>>
>>2079316
are you talking about the feed rate? I don't know that it affects accelerations either.
>>2079312
My bad, I just fired up slic3r to doublecheck the ABS profile(s) and it's saved as "202006ABS_Re-L_only" with Re-L being the printer in a mostly temp controlled enclosure. Bed temp is 68 though.
>>
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AR-15 anon. Fucking sad I can't get this bed right after printing a whole lower.
>>
Is there any post-processing I can do to make my PLA prints MORE brittle?
>>
>>2079267
Sweet, thanks anon! But I wonder if it will work for me because I have the 3-point leveling system on my bed. I'll have to give it a closer look tonight.
>>
>>2079335
>MORE brittle
>MORE
Mind if I ask why? Making them brittle won't increase shore or improve deflection. It will just make them brittle. I'm genuinely interested in what you're trying to accomplish.
Anyway, you can try putting your prints into a place were they will absorb moisture.
>>
>>2079328
You're printing straight onto glass? What you are seeing may not be bed leveling issues but rather lack of adhesion. Alternatively, your Y carriage may be loose. What printer are you using?
>>
>>2079350

it's the silicon carbine side of the Ender 3 v2 plate (the other side is just glass)

should I tighten the band, eccentric nuts or both?

>Y carriage may be loose
>>
>>2079353
>Ender 3.
I want to curse Creality right now for their bullshit half assed preassembly. Last night I was troubleshooting a CR10s and the eccentrics on the Y extrusion were loose. Can't hurt to check belt tension, but so long as you're not skipping steps tension is good.
There should be a steel plate onto which the heated bed attaches. Try shaking that.
I think the CR10 and the ender 3 use similar carriers, i'll get a webm after riding home.
>>
Does anyone do printing as a service or sell your prints? What websites or services do you use?
>>
>>2079353
>Ender 3 v2 is just $250
Damn that's cheap and really doesn't look like a half bad printer. Hadn't really though how far they've come.
>tfw a8, migbots and prusa clones were ~350+ back in 2015 and only somewhat useable after several days tuning and tinkering.
>>
>>2079364
I did it up until three years ago. Doesn't really make much sense now.
>>
>>2079370
I'm just looking for some side cash, I mean really small time like facebook marketplace selling knick knack shit type small. I figured it's pretty saturated by now.
>>
>>2079368
when it's on, it's on. it's a damn shame I'm having problems. I need to find some hairspray or a glue stick or maybe use sugar water.
>>
Just purchased and set up my first 3d printer (Ender 3 v2) but the inner spool diameter is the wrong size. Is there anything I can do to get it working for now or am I shit out of luck until a spool with the proper size arrives?

The current spool hole is way too big.
>>
should I just get an Ender 3 V2 or wait for the sales and the Neptune 2
>>
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Has anyone printed one of these bastards?

I think I can squeeze my makerbot knockoff (its old) to do well enough for it, but I worry that if I do it at 4 ft x 3ft with a 4in z axis it will shake itself apart.
>>
>>2079361
hell, I'm barely *making* steps at this point

I get a dab in the corner and it just smears and drags
>>
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>>2079418
>The current spool hole is way too big.
just put the spool on the holder then
>>
>>2079418
>this guy purchased the wrong spool inner core diameter
you put in radius didn't you? seriously though, just print a god dammed adapter.
>>
>>2079328
It could be also pressure related. Are you sure the extruder is not sneakily slipping?
>>
>>2079418
Don't use those stupid as inner tube spool feeds. Use one that has two roller bars with bearings. Feeds much cleaner
>>
>>2079467
What do you mean by slipping? It was kind of acting funny with the feed knob earlier.
>>
>>2079418
You are one dumb motherfucker

New Thread
>>2079481
>>
>>2079473
When I magically started getting no adhesion on my Prusa:tm: between prints it was usually due to setting a very low first layer trying to squeeze it really hard into the bed, but also forgetting to reset the tension between the extruder gears after fucking with it, and it wasn't able to force the liquid into the space between the bed and the nozzle fast enough. Might partly be alleviated by temperature as well, idk. It's also direct extrusion so it might be different for you.
>>
>>2079263
I wonder why they were drumming up hype when they had no supply.
>>
>>2079346
I want to make a projectile that will readily shatter on impact. I've got the walls as thin as possible, but I want more.
>>
>>2079687
Just use HIPS

also, seek mental help
>>
>>2079025
The problem is vibration in the printer. Couple things to try:

Tighten all screws. Maybe something has worked its way loose and you haven't noticed. Check belts for debris as well.

Print on a more solid surface. Either get a heavier, more solidly constructed table/desk, or put a patio stone under the printer to damping the vibration.

Adjust acceleration rates. The available options for this may depend on the slicer you are using. Some firmwares may also affect this.

Print slower.



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