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Vaselets Need Not Apply Edition
Old thread: >>2071479
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Lulzbot Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.
>>
I know it's made by arrogant pricks and the design is needlessly complicated and I should really get a hypercube instead, but those vorons are just so sexy to look at I don't know if I can resist
>>
When installing a BLtouch on a printed mount that has some z adjustment in it, is it preferable to mount the probe closer to the bed, or farther away? I imagine mounting it close as possible while still being above the nozzle (when probe retracted) would be best but what the fuck do I know
>>
>>2074101
>made by arrogant pricks who don't design good
Explain. I want to know more.
>>
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>>2074089
>video doesnt cover any questions raised
>deals with an entirely different printer
>wasting my fucking time replying to you
>mfw
>>
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Please bully my smol lewd print.
>>
>>2074175
wheres the penis?
>>
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>>2074176
Thank you
>>
>>2074176
in your ass
>>
>>2074189
UwU
>>
>>2074177
What is that ass?
>>
>>2074193
It's a brapp canyon.
>>
>>2074129
>Design team of 50+ people with backgrounds in diverse subjects, design printers using years of accumulated knowledge and experience in 3dp
>rando enters discord WTF ABS BAD WHY COMPLICATED BELTED Z SHIT 3 POINTS PLANE
>rando gets pissed screaming at people they are wrong doesnt make them understand they are wrong cus reason
> HURR DURR COMMUNITY SHIT AND ENTITLED
>>
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>Take apart the artillery x1 extruder planning to replace the tubing in it with capricorn
>The original nozzle it comes with isn't even solid brass and has ptfe lining in the center
Are all cheapo volcano nozzles like this?

After taking the thing 90% apart I might as well just get a metal heatbreak and a new all metal spring switch for the feed while I'm at it and rebuild the fucking thing.
>>
>>2074209
Most likely, cheapo printers get away with shit quality machining by using ptfe lined components in the hotend as much as possible
>>
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>realize 3 hours in I forgot to generate supports
>>
>>2074136
It sounds to me like maybe you are just too retarded to figure out how to put it together???
That isn't really an arrogance or design issue. It's a retardation issue.
>>
>>2074208
Just saw this. I came to that conclusion.
>>2074216
>>
>>2074209
>>2074213
>V4 sidewinder can only use very specific smooth heatbreaks
>All the ones on amazon are garbage quality
It'll be a month until the one I just ordered arives from china, but atleast I can rebuild this with capricorn tubing and use a real nozzle.
>>
>>2074127
Level with the nozzle
>>
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any idea what could cause layers just randomly not happening higher up on my prints? Shorter prints are always perfectly fine, but it happens once or twice once it gets past say z 40.

Stock ender 3 pro, sliced in cura. Z hop on and retraction 6. Happened on multiple different models. Haven't calibrated my extruder cause I'm lazy. Esun pla+. Extruder 220, bed 75.
>>
>>2074217
fuxk. I fucked that reply up. Fuckgin god dammmit I am a fucking failure retard
>>
>>2074231
Does it always happen right around the same area? I would imagine its something wrong with the Z axis movement. Maybe a machine error right in that area causing a jump so it steps too high or not enough.
>>
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>>2074240
Compared to another part,, it seems to happen in a pattern, though not at the same levels. It's happening to other prints as well though, so I don't think it's the model.
Will check my z axis for obvious fuckups.
>>
>>2074254
Is your Z screw lubed?
>>
>>2074254
Looks like your extruder might be fucking around.
>>
>>2074254
move the z axis manually by hand and see if it budges in certain spots, it should ideally be buttery smooth, if it budges at certain heights, you assembled it not completely trued
>>
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Has anyone here tried to make a clay/ceramic 3D printer? Kind of want to do it myself but there's not too much info, looks like it was popular back in the mid-2010s but there's only a few people working on it these days.
>>
>>2074216
I was asking for opinions and I got referenced back to the video that sparked my interest in the first place because that makes total sense.
>>
>>2074298
one question: why tho
>>
>>2074002
>vase
>printing with infill
did you forget to enable vase mode?
>>2074254
is you filament spool tangling up? If not it might be heatcreep
>>
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>>2074175
>>2074177
wtf bro you could at least print it on the back so we can pretend there are nipples
>>
>>2074231
Intermittent extrusion issues. You get one or 2 layers of heavy underextrusion then shit picks back up and prints fine.
Do a few cold pulls and if it persists check the PTFE tube to make sure it didn't burn up.
>>
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>>2074260
It still has the lube from creality. Only had it a month or so, and only had about 10 hours printing all up
>>2074263
Did this and it seems fine, but I'll have to take it apart and true it again to be sure
>>2074314
>>2074328
It's not tangling, but my nozzle might be cloggy. I'll change the nozzle, and also the tubing since I have some lying here.
>>2074261
I figured I'd put on the trianglelabs dual drive extruder I got the other day to rule this issue out... but I can't because fucking creality decided to change the extruder knob to press fit without telling anyone. Going to try heating and beating it off, otherwise I'm buying a new extruder with a gear I can take off. Apparently this change came to ender 3s past mid 2020.
>>
>>2074254
>>2074231
Do a cold pull, do the trapped PTFE hotend fix, while you're at it take out the heatbreak from the heatsink and put some heatpaste on then put it back in.
>>
>>2074254
check the entrance of your extruder assembly to see if the filament is grabbing on the edge of it and digging a hole through it
>>
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Why would first layer height be 75% in super slicer? Wouldn't you want the opposite?
In cura I ran 0.12 and my first layer was 0.2 to make bed adhesion easier.
>>
>>2074381
It says percentage over default nozzle width.
So wouldn't that be 0.3mm with a 0.4mm nozzle?
>>
>>2074355
It's glued on there so heat might help. Or if you got a Dremel handy, it might take a minute or two to cut off. At least if you cut it off you won't have to worry too much about the heat from a torch going down the shaft and fucking up the internals.
>>
>>2074383
Damn, I misread. Thanks.
>>
>>2074254
Check your extruder. Could be worn plastic clogging the gear or if you have a plastic bodied extruder setup, it's possible that the filament has worn a grove where it feeds in and is snagging.
>>
>>2074322
I am dishonored, my thanks.
>>
>>2074388
Hit it with a propane torch and couldn't beat it off, so I'll pull the old dremel out tomorrow. I am a bit concerned about heat damage, seeing as the body was noticably hotter, but we'll see how it works.
>>
Did anyone ever hear from that anon making a instax back for a Mamiya medium format camera?
>>
>>2074355
print some Z-motor shims while you are at it, they made my ender 3 v2 much smoother
>>
>>2074231
Ender 3 chinkshit, build your own...
Dirty nozzles
Heat break thermal paste dried up
Clogged nozzle
>>
Any suggestion or best practices about printing in PETG?
>>
>>2074527
If you don't have an all metal hotend, don't bother. You want to be printing at around 250c-265c...
>>
>>2074527
1. Retraction does very little for PETG so exploit combing and one-at-a-time printing wherever you can.
2. The slower and hotter you go, the better it sticks, both to the plate and to itself. This keeps applying right the way down to about 0.06 layer height and <10mm/s, where you can get near perfect layer adhesion and completely isotropic part strength. At the other end of the scale, if you try and print at the same speed as PLA it ends up weaker than PLA and basically pointless, so it's up to you where you want to sit in between those two extremes.
>>
>>2074563
I print PETG at 245°C just fine.
>>
>>2074576
Yes but at that cold you're not getting the proper strength out of petg.
>>
>>2074527
Oh yeah and don't use your part cooling fan ever on PETG except when bridging. In fact depending on what printer you have it may even be worth switching to a pull-type hotend fan shroud so you're blowing as little air onto the part as possible.
>>
>>2074581
Shit I don't even use cooling when bridging and it works just fine. I print at 270c. Anything cooler I find that petg loses a lot of strength.
>>
>>2074563
>>2074585
Depends a lot on the brand, I've had PETG from sunlu that wanted 210-230 and another roll from esun that was nowhere near browning at 255. Anyway you can probably go to 270 on capricorn tubing if you're feeling brave and don't have any pet birds nearby.
>>
What's your favourite way to fix a bed to the heated plate and why?
>>
What is the point of silicone nozzle condoms? To keep the heatblock warm when using cooling fans? Is it better to remove it when working with say, ABS to help keep the work area warmer?
>>
>>2074598
All metal hot end, not necessary for better tubing. Why is everyone here so fucking stupid?
>>
>>2074603
The way the ender 6 does it.
>>
>>2074627
Changing tubing is much easier and cheaper than changing the hotend, and having a PTFE lining is handy in case you want to switch back to PLA
>>
>>2074089
so I'm buying a Prusa i3. anyone got any advice for buying one in the UK. good sites to buy from where you dont get a shitty clone, things to buy with it, etc
will be my first PLA 3d printer so general advice would be helpful, please and thank you.
>>
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>>2074603
I pulled the spring out of some small pegs and it works fine and doesn't Rob me of any print volume
>>
>>2074603
slapping the pei-flexsheet on the magnetic bed, its quick and doesn't take away buildvolume
>>2074614
it protects the heatblock from sudden temperature changes and the printed part from radiation heat
>>
>>2074614
What >>2074681 said, but most of the time they're not really needed. They also introduce another point of failure; it's pretty common to see them get loose or snag on something, covering the nozzle, which then cakes the whole hotend in plastic.
>>
>>2074684
When I was printing ABS i ended up with the nozzle and hotend caked in plastic, but the print still came out fine, albeit with a few black drips of grease from the burned shit. Luckily the sleeve came right off and heated hotend scraped pretty clean.

Not really sure if the nozzle leaked or if it was backflow riding up
>>
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>>2074689
I meant something more like this; a little bit of plastic on the nozzle is fine and expected, I don't know a single person with a flawless clean heatblock and nozzle
>>
>>2074692
bro I think your printer has the cancer
>>
>>2074692
>I don't know a single person with a flawless clean heatblock and nozzle
I am one of them, but I'm not a retard and totally able to tighten the nozzle and heatbreak to have a proper seal
>>
>>2074717
Do you never print PETG?
>>
>>2074692
Uh, that seems a tad bit worse than I was talking
>>
>>2074723
Yes. Why?
>>
>>2074723
>>2074732
I mean yes, I print PETG, although not much. It always takes a lot of material to properly purge the nozzle before and after and the PETG prints are never structurally as good as PLA or Greentec Pro
>>
If one installed Klipper on an 8 bit creality board, could it be repurposed to drive a corexy printer? In conjuction with octoprint of course.
>>
>>2074746
I can't see why not, you can push really high speeds with klipper and for double/triple/quadruple-z-axis you can use an adapter board
>>
>>2074765
I thought as much, thanks.
>>
What is the upper limit for speed on a mostly stock Ender 3 Pro? I've had mine (which came with a 32 bit board) for a couple months now and have only just started to play with speed. I've always just used Cura's default settings for speed which is like 50mm/s. I'd never even touched the tune menu until like 5 minutes ago. I just started one of those boat benchmark things but cranked the speed to 200%; was this a retarded decision?
I also see people mentioning klipper when talking about speed; why exactly does a different firmware allow faster printing? I would think reliable print speed would be completely hardware based.
I got this printer because I know I'm eventually going to get a much nicer machine, but I am still really impressed with how this pile of chinkshit does. I understand why people say to spend more money, but the challenge of extracting the most performance out of this machine has been really rewarding and educational.
>>
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Promised you guys a vase but this is the best I can do atm hahaha
>>
>>2074809
use better pla and it wont string so much
>>
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Why does this keep happening to me? I ran Super Slicer's bed level calibration and the test looked pretty good.

I'm currently printing at 20mm/s since my extruder stepper replacement is in the mail. Could printing so slow cause this?
>>
>>2074775
>I got this printer because I know I'm eventually going to get a much nicer machine, but I am still really impressed with how this pile of chinkshit does. I understand why people say to spend more money,
honestly this hobby has a direct correlation between what you're making vs. how much upgrades will help you. For example, if you have patience, speed is something you never even have to think about with 3d printing. But if you want print things fast or even just really big things accurately(without taking a week), you start running into bottlenecks.

Its fun to tweak the knobs and play with speed but I think you're about to find out your ender isn't as impressive as you once thought. though desu 100mm/s isn't that fast and you'll probably get a finished part. I'd be surprised if it isn't wavy as hell tho
>>
>>2074812
Absolutely will do. Thanks bro
>>
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i am a newb in 3dprinting... got a problem:
my fillament doesent addhese on the plate...
bought a whambam becuse i didnt want to hammer my prints from the bed. my first prints were pretty good, now my fillament doesent stick on the plate.... hope some anon can give an advise.
printer: crs10pro, whambam pex, petg
>>
>>2074816
you have some under-extrusion first off, this doesn't help with bed adhesion. Make sure your bed is clean, wipe it down with alcohol or windex. If your bed isn't heated you also might try glue or painters tape
>>
>>2074824
the fillament waves on top of the surface, i think my leveling is accurate, used a paper to level the bed multiple times till had a good overall level. i also cleaned with steelwool and ipa...tep nozzle: 220, bed: 75
>>
>>2074197
heehee
>>
>>2074775
Because it's a bed slinger speed will depend quite a lot on what you're printing. Very large prints will weigh the bed down and overwork the motors at high speed, and very tall prints may begin to risk being shaken free of the bed. Bed slingers are great for being cheap (unless it's prusashite) but they are really not built for speed
>>
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I flipped the bed so the normal glass faces up and wow the adhesion got 100% better.
>>
>>2074824
If your filament is coming out wavy you could have either a clog in the nozzle or maybe there is something wrong with your extruder gear like it is clogged and needs to be brushed clean. I'm not sure what you mean by waves on the surface. Do you mean ridges maybe? If so, your nozzle could be too close or you could be extruding too much plastic. Have you calibrated your flow rate yet? You are supposed to do it per filament.
>>
>>2074825
Funny since I'm running 140% flow for the first layers, and my extruder only skips over 40mm/s so I'm running it at 20.

My prints stick to the bed like butter on bread but I get some artifacts or blobs that stick to the edges and pull the part off the bed.
>>
There are dolls i want that cost in to the thousands each, so i figure why not just buy a printer for the cost of them to be honest. The models arent too difficult to make.
>>
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>>2074847
What is that magic?
I ran the glass bed wrong side up and parts just slipped off.
I really don't want to use tape or glue so I might consider PEI sheet.
>>
>>2074865
I just flipped it, cleaned with glass cleaner and leveled the bed for the 16th time. It's working so well now I'm printing a 40% nautilus as a test
>>
>>2074865
You need to clean it off jackass. Use alcohol or windex.
>>
>>2074867
>Leveled the bed
You don't have a bltouch? You deserve this. Try rubbing alcohol.
>>
>>2074869
Gotta crawl first before I'm running marathon sprints and stuff anon
>>
>>2074865
Just use some cheap hairspray like AquaNet. It takes like seriously one minute to spray and for it to dry then you don't have to worry about it. You also don't need to reapply it for every print.
>>
>>2074868
I clean it with 96 proof
>>2074867
Keep updating, I'd love to know how it goes
>>2074875
I start prints remotely so it doesn't really work for me
>>
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>>2074820
>>2074841
This is far from a good comparison as there are 3 different brands of filament and 2 sets of settings, but my 200% boat came out better than I expected.
The grey is eSun PLA+ and is one of the best bench boats I have gotten to date, even if it still has quite a few imperfections. I'm not sure what else I can change, however.
The red is some 3D Solutech PLA that I got for like 10 bux and I really like the color even though it prints worse than the eSun stuff I have. I printed it with the same settings as the green with the only difference being temperature and speed.
The green is my 200% speed attempt and it came out in just under 2 hours as opposed to the nearly 4 that the others took. It wasn't quite twice as fast but it was pretty close. It's 3D Fuel PLA pro. It has quite a few flaws in it, but still turned out nicer than I expected. I think I am going to keep experimenting with speed settings but overall I am still pretty pleased with how it came out. I'm sure there are things I can do with acceleration and jerk that would improve the quality slightly, but literally all I did was crank a knob this time around.
I'm not quite sure where to start for tuning more settings. I know this picture is probably garbage for these purposes, but is there anything immediately noticeable that I should focus on first?
>>
>>2074873
>Gotta crawl first before I'm running marathon sprints and stuff anon
What kind of retard answer is this? Just install a bltouch, it's not hard. Follow the instructions, install the Creality rom that supports BLtouch, set your z offset as you would leveling it so it bites, replace the springs with spacers and it'll work 100% of the time. It's a set once and forget it thing....
>>
>>2074879
>I start prints remotely so it doesn't really work for me
OK now you are just being lazy. Well, enjoy your shit not sticking. When you get tired of fighting it, remember the hairspray.
>>
guys i probably have a stupid question so ive got this air fryer that has a dehydration setting can i use it to dry filament or do i need to get something specific for filament?
>>
>>2074887
>Replace the springs with spacers
As in the springs below the bed for the adjustment knobs? Why bother when its auto adjusting and leveling each time anyways?
>>
>>2074881
your layer size is the most obvious/easiest improvement in quality I can see. A smaller nozzle would do a lot for you
>>
>>2074888
>What is having a workshop
>What is sharing a printer
>>
Do I have to do anything to my ender 3 after hitting level with the bltouch? Or does it store its settings automatically?
>>
>>2074887
OK ok okaay I'll look into it desu senpai
>>
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>>2074879
The plain glass works beautifully! just ignore this nautilus model's support issues.
>>
>>2074975
I may need to give it a second chance, just double checking, you're using the non teflon coated side, right? the one that's untreated.
>>
>>2074978
Yes, it's the underside, basically a regular glass surface.
>>
>>2074988
Great, thanks for the follow-up.
>>
>print a plastic box worth $20 of filament
>think you are saving money.

Why are printards so dumb?
>>
So I printed two of these yesterday. They go on your spool holder. You put a couple of bearings on them and now your spool rolls easily. Well, the two I printed yesterday delaminated when I was attaching them to the holder for some reason. So I reprinted at 5° higher temp, hopefully it helps.
I don't know what is wrong with my retraction settings either. I have it set to 5mm retraction at 60 mm/s. I don't want to go too much higher because I hear big retractions can lead to clogs in the V6. What do you guys have your retraction set to? I'm also using a BMG extruder if that makes a difference.
>>
>>2074995
C-custom sizes! The box is exactly what I want!
>>
>>2074995
>>print a plastic box worth $20 of filament
lol biggest print I've ever even considered was only $15 of filament, half a kilo.

Sure its not economical compared to buying something mass produced but you definitely can save money printing small things and special/specific things
>>
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I'm not really sure how the infill is so visible with backlighting in this. The shell is atleast 1mm thick, and its opaque filament. Looks super cool though.

How do you adjust the vertical line where each shell is opened and closed though? Kinda of a shitty spot it chose. Also any ideas on a good way to break out these supports or how to adjust the settings in cura so they are making less contact and less heavy duty? Afraid I'm going to shatter actual parts of the model trying to break off the support
>>
>>2074089
Lets say i was to buy my first 3d printer. Just to mess around. id go the following route.

Ender 3 pro
BL Touch
BTT motherboard

Would you guys recommend anything else?
Since i only use Linux should i use Freecad or just get an other HDD install Windows and Autodesk? How easy is it to merge from FreeCAD to Autodesk?
>>
>>2075043
Cura calls that vertical line the "z-seam", and there are a bunch of different ways you can handle it. Personally I prefer it all along one line like that though because you can cut or sand it all off together.
>>
>>2075069
Yeah I'll probably just lightly sand it with a file while I clean up all the supports, but I would prefer if it was on the back on side so it wasn't as close to the face. Not really sure how to determine where its "located"
>>
>>2075066
>install windows and Autodesk
Autodesk is a company, not a product. Do you use Microsoft to write your emails and eat food off of IKEA?

But really though, freeCAD sucks ass. Try Fusion 360, good enough to learn off of, free, and close enough to "professional" programs that you won't have problems switching to those when you need to. OpenSCAD is also a useable, if fucky, solution.
>>
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first remix to something, I just added the base to the logo and played with the height, the ironing didn't work out as well as id like, think il play with the settings, probably should have taken a before picture, I did sand it a lil
>>
>>2074892
Because the springs can move during a print, particularity a heavy print causing layer shift. Springs are a bandaid on a broken bone, a temporary fix to a problem that can cause other issues. I use metal spacers I got from my v rollers when I upgraded to linear rails but they sell hard rubber spacers now that I wish came with the bltouch. A properly calibrated printer, learning to do it right, razor edge thin, will print so fine you can't feel the layers. On my ender 6, I can print at 50 microns. All metal hotend, 0.2mm nozzle, proper temperatures, proper calibration. You need to learn this stuff. Practicing bad habits only enforces then later. Glue sticks on a bed can work but they're totally unnecessary if you do it right to begin with.
>>
>>2075113
springs offer forgiveness in a crash though which I have had happen with the bl touch
>>
>>2075066
Get brics cad it's better than autodesk.
>>
>>2075114
Pay attention always during your first layer... I only mesh level once per week. I don't take g29 at all. I mesh level with the printer and it stores the settings... It's completely unnecessary to g29 every print if everything is set properly. The only time I need to remesh usually is after I turn the printer off. Most of the time that's not the case.
>>
>>2075114
>>2075116
Yet another reason springs are a bad answer. Bed shifting. If a print crashes mid print, I chuck it in the bin and start over.
>>
>>2075120
bl touch likes to crash at the start if the needle fails to work for whatever reason it feels like it will repeatedly slam the hot end into the bed
having heavy springs lets the bed move that half a mm to not bend things or break the glass
>>
>>2075123
Then you don't have a real bltouch or you have a bad firmware. I never use 3rd party firmware.
>>
>>2075125
its a real bl touch I got it from microcenter in person with crealitys firmware
it happens maybe once every 30 bed checks but if you print remote it can be really annoying
>>
>>2075123
>>2075125
For example TH3D firmware is known for this. Switch to Creality firmware that supports BLtouch and you'll be fine. Learn to slice and properly calibrated to get the desired results instead of changing the firmware.
>>
>>2075126
Don't do that. Stop using G29. Replace the springs with spacers. Mesh your bed manually once in a while only. Learn how to print.
>>
>>2075128
>hurr durr im smarter than thousands of hours of Chinese design
printers use springs for a reason
I have printed a print that was 900 grams in filament I had no issues with the bed sinking
when are you printing multiple kg prints?
>>
>>2075126
When you're driving your car on the highway, set the cruise control. You don't constantly hit the gas then the breaks to maintain speed, you feel it out. Same applies here. Trust the machine to do it's job. Master the craft of slicing. Mesh level once in a while with a stationary bed. If you're having print issues between prints then you have issues caused by a bed losing it's place. Solve the problem once, not a thousand times...
>>
>>2075130
Voron doesn't use springs. Neither do high end printers. Springs are a cheap fix for morons who don't know how to dial settings in.
>>
>>2075130
>Chink shit printer does chinky duct tape fix therefore good
NGMI
>>
>>2075133
my bed is on springs I have zero issues with the bed moving what massive multiple kg things are you printing that this is an issue?
>>
>>2075137
Do you G29 every print? There's a reason voron, Prusa, and good printers don't use bed springs... Learn how to print please. Please stop using bad design.
>>
>>2075123
dude, I installed my Bl touch today and that did that once, scared the hell out of me. ender 3 v2 4.2.2 board with a official creality bl touch with the proper software, what the hell gives?
>>
>>2075141
this is your printer on bltouch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwUDD5xaxfg
>>
>>2075141
You're not suppose to level the bed every time you print unless you turn it off and move it constantly... Just leave it on. Level it once in a while. Use your printer to ya know... Print things. I will never understand some people... Do you like doing pointless useless tasks? Why not solve the issue? It's like those retards who ride their breaks and you get stuck driving behind them. They have no chill. They are like scared of the natural flow and if things aren't exactly in their control they freak the fuck out... Calm down Karen it's going to be ok.
>>
>>2075141
You do know that it stores your mesh on the sd card right? Level it once with spacers and don't fuck with it. Don't use G29 in cura. It's totally unnecessary.
>>
>>2075141
Is your BL Touch a v3 (likely if you've only just purchased it)? If so, make sure you're using the bugfix version of Marlin 1.1.9, which supposedly fixes the compatibility issues. I say supposedly because there's also a capacitor on the mainboard that can be removed to fix the issue, and once I removed it (and commented out the specific v3 bits in the firmware) the BLTouch performed noticeably better than when relying on the bugfix firmware alone.

Teaching Tech on YouTube has a few BLtouch Ender 3 videos, covering the changes for configuring the bugfix firmware and the removal of the capacitor.

The newest 32 bit board from Creality doesn't have the capacitor.
>>2075154
>>2075156
Wholeheartedly agree. There's just no reason to mesh with every print unless you have springs. I thought it was common knowledge that once you installed the bltouch you switched to those hard rubber grommets and stopped messing with the bed altogether.
>>
>>2075141
The 4.2.7 board removed the problematic capacitor and fixes the issue.
>>
>>2075154
>>2075156
it crashed and dug into the bed on auto home, i was watching and quickly turned it off. I did change g28 to g28g29, what does it do exactly?

>>2075161
how hard is it to remove the cap? I do know basic soldering and i guess il get those silicone rubber spacers

Also does it probe the bed evenly? because it doesn't reach that far right when facing the printer
>>
>>2075173
G28 is home
G29 is mesh bed leveling, don't use this in cura. Leave it at G28. Always mesh level from the printer itself.
It's just a desolder, then you go in and # in front of the offending code. Watch a YouTube video on it. Takes like 5 minutes. The capacitor actually causes the disconnect. It causes a buffer overflow error on the cpu with the bltouch and just as importantly with a normal z stop switch. The reason you never ran into the error before was you don't run the z stop switch 12 times before every print. You shouldn't need to relevel the printer every time as it stores the information in the .dat file on the sd card. You just need to home and set your z offset, then autolevel from the printer settings on the printer. Once in a while. Most of the time you shouldn't need to mess with it. It's a plastic sensor with some delicate electronics. You really should just leave it alone. Mesh once then print without g29. If you start seeing adhesion issues, reset your z offset, then relevel via mesh from the printer. I come from years of experience here. From big massive printers to my own personal ones. Springs can cause shifting from temperature changes etc it's not just weight. They wear out. Etc. If you're crashing check your connections as well. You shouldn't rely on springs for safety because it'll still snap a heat break very easily. You need to solve the issue before you have to replace your hotend or glass bed... The springs are for bed leveling only, not as a safety precaution. Some hotends like the v6 can snap very easily so you need to be careful anyhow and if you're having the bltouch crash in this manner you have other issues that need to be resolved.
>Oh my car is making a sick grinding noise and randomly the engine dies... Let's ignore it!!!!
Seriously this is a user error and arguably chink shit garbage design. Stop using chink shit!!!!
>>
>>2075173
wait, im pretty sure i put the code in wrong, the manual did a shitty job at that part.... it stores the leveling mesh on the eeprom right? do I have to storage config though? and I am not leaving the printer on permantly if that's what you meant....

>>2075188
i wasnt the original anon in this post who brought this up, do I also really have to configure my own marlin software? why cant I just use crealitys? it all seems like too much work, bear in mind im not as autistic as some of you guys
>>
>>2075195
I had the issue with my cr10v2 using a bltouch and creality firmware. Crashing into the bed, z offset not working.

Looked around and found tinymachines firmware which has a bunch of different precompiled options to grab. Used that and have had no issues since. Idk why the one guy is so adamant about sticking with stock firmware when it obviously has known issues
>>
>>2075195
No the settings are on the sd card on Creality printers. Please just use Creality's software on Creality boards... It's retarded to use 3rd party shit. I even use Creality slicer as 4.8 has issues with some json and cfg files... It's really out of date sadly. Octoprint is my go to these days. It's seriously best to just not use G29 in your marlin start code. There's just no reason to if you know what you're doing. It's a bandaid for stupid people. Get good at printing. Properly set your hardware up. Check connections on all wires and use hot glue to hold the connectors in place once they're right. There's a reason Creality uses hot glue on all it's connectors... If you want some bed give use hard rubber spacers, they're 4 bucks on amazon. I use steel spacers and loctite on the bolts. Make everything we stable as possible and remove all variances and tune your shit properly. Learn how to set retractions for your filament of choice or lack thereof. Cooling settings. Sometimes pla prints 220c and sometimes 190c same spool different air pressure. Learn how to print and stop using poor practices taught by morons on jewtoob who get paid for printer reviews and actually try to find the lesser known highly technical channels... Join a facebook group if you agree with Facebook... Discord has specific printer channels as well. Join a community for your printer. Learn from the gurus. I did my part here. I'm going to bed now. Learn from the people who print 50 microns on an ender 3, not from the dad who uses glue sticks like it's 1984...
>>
>>2075043
>The shell is atleast 1mm thick
mmm idk why you think this but its definitely not. To my eyes it looks like you have a single perimeter, so your shell is more like .4mm thick lol
>>
>>2075173
>because it doesn't reach that far right when facing the printer
you have to put in the limits yourself something you wont be able to do with closed firmware
>>
>>2075201
il look around for pre configured files then, im assuming smith3d is higly reputable? looks like he just updated afew days ago.
https://github.com/smith3d/Marlin/releases/tag/2.0.x.17
>>
>>2075206
Creality firmware is open source friend and you can change settings using a usb cable and three proper software.
>>
>>2075209
precompiled firmware is not open source
>>
>>2075210
https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3
Please shut the fuck up.
>>
>>2075204
I understand that you live and breath 3d printers, but frankly that is not the path 95% of us take, I will continue using youtube tutorials since that is easier, I also could not find any info on the capacitor you talk about, or at least it isnt a common discussion, I will however glue my connector in as search bl touch crash seems to just be a common issue when connectors aren't fully seated
>>
>>2075218
This is why 3d printers need to stay above $1000... This hobby may not be for you. It's not ready for the masses just yet. It's getting close but these cheap printers just like everything else, invite in the kinds of people who have no business getting into the hobby...
>>
>>2075218
>>2075220
The thing that kills me about this guy is acting like people that don't want to compile and go through tons of effort are stupid, yet pushes using stock firmware and not adjusting or automating things. It doesn't add up logically.
>>
>>2075221
I'm saying learn to properly slice your files. Ensure connections are tight. Tighten your tolerances. Don't buy cheap chink shit printers and expect miracles! If you're going to use custom firmware, use a custom motherboard, or don't bother 3d printing in the first place. It's like people who go into Walmart buying the cheapest 150 dollar desktop computer and expecting to play cyberpunk 2077 on ultra... I'm saying to fix the actual issues at hand before blaming the firmware and check things over. There's actual fixes that people often overlook or ignore, jumping in doing stupid shit like installing custom firmware that was never meant for the printer they bought.
>>
>>2075224
Omg so much this. It's so hard getting through to stupid people who want to remain ignorant... Learn to square your printer. Install a second z axis on the ender 3. Use stock Creality firmware on Creality boards. If you're going to use custom firmware, use a custom board like bigtreetech or smoothieboard. You need to work out what's causing issues before switching operating systems or the problems will continue...
>>
>>2075212
.hex are precompiled brainlet
>>
>>2075228
Look one folder deeper... You really can't be this stupid...
>>
>>2075228
https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/tree/master/Ender-3%20Firmware%20(Marlin)/Ender-3%20(includes%20power%20failure%20resume-%20English)/Marlin

>Calls me a brainlet
>Doesnt know how to use github
My boy you're NGMI...
>>
>>2075230
>>2075232
you arent telling people to build there own firmware you are saying just to use the creality firmware im suprised you didnt just link to crealitys website lol
>>
>>2075234
The one on github is more up to date. If you don't know how to compile anything you need to exit 3d printing post haste. You're going to have a bad time...
>>
>>2075234
Yes there's good reason for that. The Creality firmware is actually really really good. If you're having issues with your printer, the last thing you should be doing is fucking with it's operating system. You're just going to overcomplicate the issue and potentially brick your motherboard. I'm saying to fix the underlying issues and check shit over before installing 3rd party operating systems....
>>
>>2075240
>>2075244
its just marlin dumbass if you are going through the trouble of compiling it you might as well do it from scratch so you can pick and choose how you want to do it
>>
>>2075244
>Creality firmware is actually really really good
Isn't this the same shit that has basic features like thermal runaway disabled?
>>
I could sit here and watch/listen to this all night
>>
>>2075260
Oy vey! I've nevah seen dis pattern before.
>>
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>>2075263
>>
>>2075263
Go, Ender, go!
>>
>>2075267
Woo, good job lil guy!
>>
>>2075244
Creality firmware is shit and there's no reason to use it with Bltouch, even on an 8 bit board. Just follow their instructions with the provided progisp but substitute your own hex file, that's literally all you have to do. There are so many premade marlin configurations available online for the Ender 3 if you need a starting point.
>>
>>2074903
Don't act like having everyone's prints stick better would be a problem. Talk with your partners and see if they are OK with it. It's seriously easy as fuck to do and cheap to boot.
>>
So with HIPS (water-soluble support filament ) does there need to be the small gap between the support and the main print or can you print with them touching?
>>
>>2075346
HIPS is not water soluble. It dissolves in limonene. For water it's PVA and BVOH.
>gap between the support and the main print
I don't see a point in using dissolvable support if you are leaving a gap. I'd say no gap.
>>
>>2075220
>ahh yes the elitists' autistic gatekeepers at work
>>
>>2075398
that guy is a loon the whole point of reprap was to bring 3d printers in to every home he certainly is autistic and antithetical to the reprap movement
>>
>>2075226
>buy a delta
fixed that for you
>>
>>2074903
>What is sharing a printer
a nightmare that never ends? like be my guest, fuck my wife in all her holes but don't you dare touch my fucking printer.
>>
>>2074995
>have secks with a woman who is going to want a relationship
>secksy time just makes you tired

why are non-incels so dumb?
>>
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>/out/ist
>get job at a community college
>starting engineering program
>administrators want students using 3D printers
>get $12,000 to buy some
>spend hours reading reviews
>choose Dremel 3D45 flex
>”I bet /diy/ does 3D printing”
>find this thread and pastebin
>ctrl-F “Dremel”
>mfw Dremel here is just for cutting and sanding
Is it a bad choice? Did I get mislead by astroturfed reviews?
>>
>>2075043
that line is what vase mode is for. only one solution. fucking punch the supports out already reeeeee
>>
>>2075111
yeah, looks melty
>>
>>2075444
recognizable name-branded printers are usually bad or mediocre
>>
>>2075444
I run a university workshop, we've got several Ultimakers. 12K isn't nothing but it's not too much in the grand scheme of things, the Dremels will suit you fine, they're not garbage just not good value (like chinkshit can be) or peak performance (like Raise, UM and the like). What's more important is a good supplier who will do warranty work for you.
>>
>>2075133
confirmed retard
>>
>>2075444
they will do, as long as they will print abs out the box and print reliably I can't see how they are a bad choice
>>
>>2075456
>ABS
Who cares? Literally who cares? Nobody prints in ABS these days, especially in uni workshops since the stuff smells, warps, stops sticking and doesn't produce stronger prints than PETG or nylon.
The Dremels can do PETG, they're fine.
>>
>>2074816
I think you're too low on the first layer. Try upping the z offset and maybe lowering the first layer accel.
>>
>>2075435
This works as well. Don't buy cheap garbage in the first place and you won't have issues. I feel like kiting out a Creality printer is the most pointless thing you can do. You end up spending more in the long run then if you just bought something worth using in the first place...
>>
>>2075444
On a similar note: I have a 250 EUR budget per printer, to buy 16 3D-printers for a university project. All they really need to do is print PLA, survive for 6 months and a guesstimated 100 printing hours without giving me too much headache to service them for the participating students.
Is there any better option out there than an Anycubic Mega or Creality Ender 3?
>>
>>2075463
PETG? ya making water bottles or parts for your prusa that`ll melt if you put it in too tight of a enclosure?
>>
Is there some sort of variance with transparent PLA? I am trying to print this gyroid gear thing, and the center circles keep popping off the build plate. First time I've had issues with PLA sticking. It's not much surface area, but still.

Am I printing too hot, or not hot enough or what?
>>
>>2075481
What's wrong with the ender 6?
>>
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Fuck me I am retarded. My stock extruder feed pinion gear was tearing and failing to feed my filament do I bought a hobbed gear as recommended. Now the hobbed gear tooth OD is too small and it doesn't interact with the filament. Should I bother replacing the idler too or should I just buy a better extruder system? I was thinking about getting the seemecnc for soft filaments, can anyone recommend me any others?
>>
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>>2075445
But is there a way to tell the slicer via like a 360* position where to PLACE the Z seam?

The supports were 2000% cancer to remove. I think it was due to bad luck with how the overhang angles played out, but I ended up with a few mm thick supports on the side with a very small airgap between the model making them extremely durable and impossible to break off safely. Ended up going to town with some nippers and slowly breaking them apart. The mouth I had to use an exacto to pierce and then a metal file to crush and pop them out. Now I gotta sand the shit out of the support areas, lightly buff it and gloss coat it
>>
>>2075485
If 120x120 build area is enough I'd get monoprice minis.
>>
Is the Voron actually worth the price and time?
>>
>>2075516
No linear rails, uses cheap plastic v slot rollers
Loud as fuck fans
Garbage hotend
Very slow for a CoreXY, 150mm/s instead of say 200-250mm/s
Not direct drive
Open top
House fire psu
You can build a voron 2.4 for the same price and have an infinitely better printer.
>>
>>2075554
You need to physically replace the motherboard to fully use the 300x300mm bed, Creality limits to 260 even with custom firmware...
It's just such a garbage printer
>>
I have an ender 3, I hate how loud the fans are. They say 24v on them but the noctua ones are 12v. What do I do? Where can I find quiet fans?
>>
>>2075548
Considering you can get a large cr10 or artillery x1 for nearly half the price and mostly prebuilt and ready for use doesn't really seem like it.
>>
>>2075569
Both are slower garbage designs
>>
>>2075563
I just got me 24v > 12v bucks. Gonna buy a noctua fan for the PSU which is the loudest fan of them all. I think I can manage with the hot end fans.
>>
>>2075548
If your going print benchies and other rando crap off thingi, probably not

If you want to print alot of abs, or other plastics that benefit from enclosures, want to be able to print fast, and reliably, and enjoy building printers, yes
>>
What temps do you generally print PLA at? PLA+? I've found that I almost always need to print at 220 minimum for shit to work correctly. Every time I try to go lower I end up with clumping, adhesion issues or such
>>
>>2075578
Looking to get into printing a lot of nylon and tpu
>>
>>2075530
I'd recommend a clone BMG extruder, they are pretty affordable just get one with good ratings because there are a lot of shitty clones out there.
>>
>>2075578
It can do those as well...
https://youtu.be/hAREFjd35FQ
>>
>>2075533
In Cura, you can set the supports to be as sturdy or weak as you want. When I print supports, I print them with 1 wall and 5% infill, they come off pretty easy that way.
>>
>>2075563
I put a resistor on my 12V fan to drop the 24V down to ~12V, I don't remember the exact value but it was a cheap fix. The resistor does get hot but not hot enough to melt the woven wire sleeve.
>>
>>2075594
A fan is not a constant resistive load so a simple resistor will not drop the voltage down to a fixed voltage.
>>
>>2075582
The direct feed toolhead has zero problems with flexibles, and the LGX is drop in as well if you want to run with that

Ive printed everything short of ultem/PEEK on mine without issue.
>>
>>2075602
I've been running it like this for a couple of months now and I haven't had any problems.
>>
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anyone know what I can do to mate the clip with the trumpet bell?
>>
>>2075602
a converter is not a simple resistor.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983378035.html
>>
>>2075629
Put some makeup on the trumpet and stage a dinner?
>>
>>2075637
You're not coverting the voltage up you're stepping it down...
>>
>>2075637
>a converter is not a simple resistor.
No one said otherwise.
>>
>>2075653
>you're not lowering the voltage to the appropriate value, you're minimizing it.
Tomatoe tomato you dumb fuck. In the end my 24v gets converted to whatever i set it to be.
>>
>>2075629
Keep what you got or add a piece of springy steel to back it up, and stuff it with felt
>>
>>2074824
WhamBam PEX is possibly thr lowest-adhesion surface short of the fiberglass used for Nylon. It's quite nice... but it must be pristine clean to get most things to stick. If you have adhesion trouble, it's not clean. You cleaned it, still won't stick? Not clean enough. Clean it again.
>>
>>2075349
>>2075346
Correct. No gap. BTW, you can use PLA as support for PETG and vice versa. They split right apart.
>>
Alrighty, just ordered the extrusions for a small hypercube, now the rest!
>>
>>2075581
I set my ender 3 v2 to 220 for PLA as well but it gears back to 210 and seems to be doing great atm
>>
>>2075681
Install a microswiss hotend.
>>
>>2075683
How much hassle is it, and with the transister swap and shit?
>>
>>2075684
Not that much hassle but there's not a big gain either. You're overpaying for an all metal version of the stock hotend. The nozzle is just as short and the heatsink itself is the same size which is not at all suited for an all metal system. If you just want all metal with little hassle go to ali and buy an all metal heatbreak, they're under 5$ and you get the full microswiss experience.

My advice would be to buy into the E3D system. The V6 does anything the microswiss could ever do but better.
>>
>>2075683
It's at 200 now, still doing great
>>
>>2075689
You're so incorrect it's not even funny.
>>
>>2075699
Put the data together retard, why do you think the micro swiss is the exact same size as the original hotend? It's not some high performance shit, it's a small upgrade, simply because a lot had to be compromised to make it fit in the original space and make installation easy for braindead americans.
But ok dude, go blow 60$ on a mediocre hotend because it has a "Made in USA" stamp somewhere on the box.
>>
>>2075691
The microswiss hotend can comfortably reach 325c.
>>2075689
That's not how an all metal hotend works at all...I can't tell if you're trolling but it's more then just the heat break. It's a complete redesign.
>>
>>2075703
>Retard
It's a completely different design. It's completely different inside the hotend... It's not just a heat break... There's more to it than that. What's it like being this much of a troll? Nice bait 8/10.
>>
>>2075703
Ok now I know you're trolling
The microswiss is all steel and the shit Creality hotend is aluminum with a brass tip... Link said heat break, I'll buy it and prove it on video.
>>
>>2075706
>It's completely different inside the hotend... It's not just a heat break... There's more to it than that.
can you elaborate? Ive been researching hotends now just trying to find out which of you is being the faggot and to my eyes theres no difference between a microswiss hotend and say a creality mk8. The thermal characteristics might be slightly different sure, but what exactly is different on the inside that makes it so much better? How could a hot end be different on the inside?
>>
>>2075709
Here's an infographic
It's more than just a heat break...
>>
>>2075709
Shit even if you go with a v6 you'll do better than what Creality comes with.
>>
>>2075703
3d printing is filled with these retarded "upgrades" that really dont make much of a difference but these retards will spout off how you gotta buy all this crap
>>
>>2075709
It's made of steel and titanium vs aluminum plastic and brass.... It's machined better. Buy whatever all metal hotend you like, even the knockoffs are fine. Just make sure it's steel and aluminum.
>>
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>>2075715
I mean, its exactly the same but all metal and using TItAnIuM. Im really not sure how it could ever be better unless you needed to print at 325c. Even amazon reviews say its shit for PLA and that they wear out fast... Definitely doesn't sound like a direct upgrade to me
>>
>>2075722
Don't buy it, I don't care. It's worth doing but if you're retarded be my guest. I don't care if you're retarded. But please stop spreading your stupidity.
>>
>>2075724
All metal hotends will print pla without jamming if you're not a fucking retard.
>>
>>2075723
its made of aluminum with a titanium insert. Are you braindead anon? And the nozzle can be any material, doesn't have to be brass or steel.
>>
>>2075706
Yes anon, the hole is smaller because there's no more PTFE touching the nozzle.
There's no "completely different" as you claim, just small modifications here and there to suit it being all metal.

>>2075708
>The microswiss is all steel and the shit Creality hotend is aluminum with a brass tip
How is this a good thing? Chinkshit actually wins here since steel doesn't conduct heat as well as aluminium so the thermal transfer to the nozzle is slower. Since the nozzle is steel too that means the heating of the filament suffers.
This is sort of offset by the fact that the tiny ass heatsink will permit heat creep so the filament will start heating up before reaching the nozzle, but that's not exactly the way it's intended to work.

I stand by my opinion, it's only a small upgrade and you can see in pic >>2075715 just how hard they tried to make it better than the original Mk8 Creality uses.
Buy V6 and forget about this microscam nonsense.
>>
>>2075729
You have yet to link said heat break that's insert compatible with Creality hotends...
>>
>>2075737
Here you go

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002129601463.html
>>
>>2075742
Ok what about the area that heats up where there's nothing to screw into troll?
>>
>>2075749
MSIDF plz go
>>
>>2075749
I don't have a spare Mk8 on hand to do measurements but that looks like it would butt up against the PTFE tube coupler. There's no heat transfer area wasted.
Also
>whataboutisms
You're just embarrassing yourself at this point, just shut up if you don't want to admit you were wrong.
>>
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>>2075704
325 is impressive but for what purpose?

Here's my status bros. It's a custom phone holder printing on the plain glass. By far my cleanest print yet so far. Only one failed part, had to redo.
>>
>>2075669
wham bam uses PEX cus its cheaper than PEI and they tried to save coin.
>>
>>2075755
Metal and carbon fiber filaments
>>
>>2075750
>MSIDF
What?
>>
>>2075755
That print is pure sex
>>
>>2075760
Are you saying I can print metal with this beast? Ahahahaha
>>
>>2075763
That is high praise indeed, thanks bro!
>>
>>2075774
I respect a finely tuned printer. Just goes to show that if you're not a retard you can make fantastic prints.
>>
>>2075764
Aluminum filament, you'll need to get it annealed.
>>
>>2075533
I think you can configure z seam location in prusaslicer, maybe other slicers can do it too, look it up
>>
>>2075762
micro swiss internet defense force
>>
>>2075798
Kek
Joining the fray with existing CIDF and VIDF?
>>
>>2075485
No option to get 5-8 better printers?

At that price you could get ender3v2 instead of the pro or the original, I have been quite pleased with mine
>>
>>2075485
Elegoo neptune 2
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>>2075798
Ah lmao nice... As a customer of the microswiss it's worth it IMHO. It never clogs even with pla. It's overpriced. I like it but there's so many better options out there now.
>>
>>2075805
S/it's/it's not
It's not worth it*
>>
>>2075805
Why not try something CRAZY!
it's even nicely riced out, seems bretty gud
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>>2075807
Will that fit an ender stock? I need that please link it...
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>>2075807
I don't use extruders that don't have red LEDs for extra heat flow
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>>2075808
I don't know if it's a drop in replacement it's essentially a mosquito clone
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002234045057.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.11be7ecc7xQIAT&algo_pvid=null&algo_expid=null&btsid=0bb0624016175759375961458e4c01&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
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>>2075814
>>
>>2075808
you'll need a v6 style mount but it should work i think
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>>2075807
My mosquito knockoff fits fine
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>>2075817
Looks similar to this. I might buy the name brand.
>>
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Say you got the Wham Bam Mutant system so you could easily swap between tools or hotends. How are you supposed to swap plugs for fans, heater, and temperature sensor? Surely they don't expect you to pull the wiring from your motherboard each time, do they?
https://whambamsystems.com/mutant
>>
>>2075823
I'm building an i3 from scratch and think it looks like a decent option
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>>2075826
yeah looks nice but it's almost twice the price :|
>>
>>2075829
Why not just buy a Prusa kit?
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>>2075830
Hence might. I haven't decided yet. I want something that just screws into my ender 6 but my God this fan is driving me nuts. If I could get something with a fan I might get it. I don't understand how round ones fit, there's nowhere to screw them down.
>>
>>2075832
Well long story short, I wanted to build an i3 clone based on Wilson TS like 5 years ago and bought a whole bunch of parts but realized I was in over my head so now with the little experience from tuning my ender 2 I'm gonna use those parts to build one finally
>>
>>2075755
>>2075774
what speed did you print at?
>>
>>2075835
Never build a voron then. You think i3 is hard? Roflmao....
>>
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>First time trying out flexibles
>Going to try printing some wire grommets to cover wall holes for ethernet cables
>The ninjatek cheetah feels like putting cooked spaghetti into a bowden tube
Panic.pdf
>>
>>2075839
>2021
>Not doing direct drive
Just print a mod off of thingiverse... It's the easiest cheapest upgrade you can do...
>>
>>2075838
well that was 5 years ago plus having a working printer really helps cause you can redesign anything you need, for me the voron seems great but it looks over designed
>>
>>2075840
I ordered an artillery x1 as a second printer to use for direct drive and wider nozzles due to the volcano hot end. Just waiting on some parts that should arrive tomorrow to finish setting up the bltouch bracket and cooling duct

Mostly just messing with the ninjatek to see how it goes. Two grommets is only 1.5 hours and 9g of filament. Build simple parts with low mass is actually alot cheaper than you would expect.
>>
>>2075834
nah its cool you dont even need a fan the bimetal redirects the heat back to the block kind of like how a dragonfly gets redirected to water hence the name just get one
>>
>>2075755
Very nice top skin layer
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>>2075836
100%

>>2075868
Thanks bro
>>
Piece of shit! I knew I shouldn't have trusted that infill pattern.
>>
>>2075874
if you are using extra low infill percents zigzag is by far your best option if top layers need to sit on it. Anything else you won't have much contact area in most cases

Also for something that small, and if you want structure, just use cubic or gyroid or such and set it to 30-50%. Not like its wasting much plastic
>>
>>2075875
The original model was the piece you see on the right. It's a knob for a leadscrew. I thought it was too small so I made a cylinder 37mmx3mm and just put the knob on top of it. I did it in Superslicer. I tried in Cura but for some reason it wanted to print both models in the same space (they did occupy the same 3D space in the slicer). So it would print a layer of one at say Z=1mm and then print the other at the same height.
I had a feeling it wouldn't work. I'll try out the other infill patterns. I just barely started using this slicer so I'm not quite used to it yet.
>>
>>2075873
>100%
how fast in mm/s is it set to though?
>>
>>2075807
Burn your fucking house down with style
>Style
>>
>>2075803
>Elegoo neptune 2
I would buy one myself if it was possible..
>>
>>2075715
Yeah Chang, we get it. You a-need a put-a rice on you framirree table
>>
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>tfw no larger than man sized metal printing 3d printer to print rockets with
why even live?
>>
why all the prusa hate? you virgins mad your dick isn't as big as joseph's?
>>
>>2075902
You'd still need finishing machining on the turbopump and thrust chamber, probably the injectors too
>>
>>2075906
>Not having a 3d printer that has an extruder arm and also grinding/polishing arms so it buffs and smooths while it builds
>>
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>>2075902
we got too cocky corexy(z) bros
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>>2075904
Pretty weak troll, you gotta put in a little more effort.
>>
>>2075904
josef plz go
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My newest project is modelling and making a flat attachment for a massage gun to stick suction cup dildos onto
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can someone make a MSLA printer with local array dimming like on TVs?
>>
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>>2075839
Wow, ninjatek cheeth is fucking amazing. It printed way easier than ABS, and didn't have any issues with bowden. Probably coulda take the temp down a tad to help prevent stringing on the one with supports and gaps, but the supports come off pretty easy and its even relatively sandable.
>>
>>2075951
maybe if the array was super tiny like say as big as a pixel i think youre on to something
>>
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>>2075977
Shoulda been more careful with the tape placement, or just tried straight on the bed though. I did not take into consideration the gaps causing face distortions
>>
>>2075844
Wait you don't need a fan on a dragonfly?
>>
>>2075979
They make big sheets of the blue tape in case you didn't know
>>
>>2075990
Yeah, a skinny roll just happened to be the first one I found nearby. Honestly probably don't even need the tape, but the one good ABS print I got was on the tape so I figured I'd use it. Doing another single print of the longer plug one now with no tape and 235 instead of 240.
>>
>>2075951
Why? The blacks are already black enough to completely halt the reaction. Do you want to watch a monochrome ultraviolet movie or something?
>>
>>2075998
make LCD and UV LEDs last longer, less heat
>>
Anyone have the full velociraptor skeleton? I know the skull is free, but the full skeleton is like $20. I tried looking around but didn't find anything.
>>
>>2076127
I hate these stupid niggers charging for stl files...
>>
>>2076138
Yeah it takes zero effort and it's not like the software costs money, computers are free and everybody has like 3 tablets right? Fuck these fags making all the great models that have enhanced your lives and your 3D printing.
>>
>>2076142
Get a fucking job, nobody is going to pay you to do what should be free.
>>
>>2076142
You can do this with free cad software like blender. Don't be such a fucking jewbag.
>>
>>2076149
>>2076151
>in this episode of /3dpg/ no talent leaches REEE at supporting decent artists
fuck off autists
>>
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>>2076157
The weird thing is why is someone that can't afford to drop 5-10 bucks on models getting into an expensive thing like printing?
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>>2076157
>Artists
It should be free. Nobody is going to pay you any money jackass. You'll die poor and alone...
>>
>>2076158
Because I already spent 5 grand on my printer, I'm not paying for open source software. Fuck off.
>>
>>2076127
https://open3dmodel.com/3d-models/3d-model-velociraptor-skeleton_47407.html
Not the exact one
>>
>>2076193
Good enough you're a godsend anon. I'd kiss you but... Covid...
>>
>>2074603
I just used double sided tape on a few places under the glass bed and put it on the magnetic plate without the sticker, it seems to work really well and you can take it off if you need to by heating up the bed but I'd probably check if it holds up under higher bed temps if you need to print with that
I don't usually have to take it off though, I mostly just re-use the gluestick layer by smearing the last print's mark with a drop of water which also "gets rid" of the dust layer
>>
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>>2076175
>>2076151
>>2076149
>it should be free
>it's easy to do
>you can do this with free software
So, why exactly are you fags bitching about it instead of making it yourself if it's so easy and the software is so accessible, then?
>>
>>2075802
E3V2 is 230 EUR here so well within budget. Has to be 16 printers because there will be 16 project groups that each need their own printer. We've got a load of Ultimakers to do be the real workhorses, but these printers will get modified, reverse engineered, etc. so best to keep it cheap.

>>2075803
Why? Seems like just another E3 clone, but they're not really available here, so it makes no snese over an actual E3 or AC Mega.
>>
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>>2075902
Working on it mate. Steppers and Duet are up and running, waiting for the hotend while we sort bed heating.
>>
>>2076243
That's kickass, what will be its purpose?
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>>2076242
Ah the students will lay their hands on them, makes sense. Maybe spend the leftover budgets on basic spares like I dunno, nozzles? Shit that the students will destroy. Or maybe give the credit to the students and let them decide what spare part / upgrade they are going to get.
>>
>>2076244
Printing big shtuff.

>>2076246
We've already got plenty of spare Mk6 nozzles and the like, I've figured in budget to buy 2 spare printers whole.
>>
>>2076216
>>2076157
I think these are the same no money poorfag autists that gets mad whenever someone spends money on anything more than bottom of the barrel chinkshit printers
>>
>>2076243
You keep posting the same picture, or at least what looks the same. When will you post progress shots? It's been months
>>
>>2076247
Oh cool, seems like you're quite well prepared. Any contingency plans for fire? I think my e3v2 has thermal protection but the plain e3 doesn't so that could be a factor.
>>
>>2076249
Because I don't take a lot of pictures, frankly, and the ones I have, have students in them. Not posting those on 4chan, I'll snap a couple next wednesday.

>>2076250
>Any contingency plans for fire?
Let the sprinklers deal with it. And install thermal runaway, of course.
>>
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hey frens, can you recommend a good induction probe for be leveling?
i'm using pic related, but it's kind of shitty, sometimes the first layer if perfect, sometimes it is little too loose and sometimes it is way too close where i get extruder gear skiping steps, is there any better inductive probe than this?
i don't want to use bl touch, and all inductive probes i found on ali look the same way as mine does
>>
>>2076283
>ali
stop buying shitty chinktrash
Also get proper Bltouch and it will be good.
>>
>>2076283
Why exactly do you not want to use BLtouch? I've had very good performance with my 10$ clone from chinkbay.
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>>2076304
too hard to set up, i would have to reupload modifed firmware to my printer and take my whole printer apart to install the probe
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>>2076142
My life would be so much better with a velociraptor stl
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>>2075814
perfect, mine only holds 1 allen key
>>
No I will not not buy chink shit.
>>
>>2075724
>The Amazon review Chang made says
>so buy Chang's hot end
The Chinese are learning all the Jewish tricks. The collapse of America is going to be entertaining.
>>
New Thread
>>2076379
>>
>>2075220
Autistic hands typed this.



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