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Living On The Edge Edition
Old thread: >>2034507
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Lulzbot Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.
>>
my ender 3 v2 should be coming in a few days, any necessities to get straight of the bat? going to order bed springs
>>
>>2037750
auto bed levelling probe
>>
>>2037750
get at least one spool of pla in your choice of color
maybe get a cheap nozzle pack
>>
>>2037750
I'll second the abl probe. I couldn't print shit with mine until I put a bltouch on it because the bed was warped like a potato chip. Also go ahead and swap to a silent board and switch the fans out to some quiet ones. Stock they are so fucking loud you will never want to use it. My wife was ready to throw out away when it was stock, now I can print all night and nobody notices.
>>
>>2037807
doesn't the v2 already have the new silent mb from factory?
>>
You guys have a favorite brand of PLA+?
>>
>>2037750
some tools like calipers, a try square, some IPA
>>
>>2037808
No. I'm not sure why, but none of them come with it.
>>
>>2037813
Actually I just double checked and it does. I couldn't sworn I checked before and it didn't. Oh well, strike that one off the list.
>>
Do you guys actually use thermal compound anywhere on your hotend? I've read it should be used between the heat sink and heat break, heat break and heater block, heater block and nozzle, and even around the heater cartridge.
>>
>>2037820
Only between heatbreak and heatsink, obviously cheapass $1 thermal paste, wouldn't waste good stuff like arctic on a 3d printer
>>
>>2037809
sunlu
>>
>>2037831
Why? I thought the point of the heatbreak was to stop heat going upstream from the heat block, so why are you helping it to do just that?
>>
>>2037746
I have a problem with my 3d printer, I installed the BL Touch on my Ender 5 pro, and now it acts like it wants to print in the damn corner!
>>
>>2037867
it makes a sick grinding noise omg please help :(
>>
Does S3D has an option to increase the infill for very small areas? Both Cura and Slic3r seem to do that by default.
>>
>>2037862
because you want the cold side of the heat break to be as cold as possible, it needs to conduct as much heat as it can to the heat sink
>>
>>2037871
Sounds like it's physically hitting something.
Can you kill the power and move it freely?

I don't use a blTouch or ender, but seems like some anon is going to say "z offset"
>>
>>2037809
Supposedly an engineer for all those companies and he still can't be bothered to be able to seat a PTFE tube properly. Also, in what world is an Ender 3 V2 $400? Also interesting to see that he now thinks the printer is irreparably damaged.
>>
A work colleague and I are in the process of specifying some parameters for a custom 3dp board he is going to design and I am going to write a Klipper port for. We've settled on the following specifications:
>12+ driver ports, compatible with the general stepstick modules.
The reason behind 12+ is that I run a 4XY 4Z motor + 1 extruder printer, but want to expand up to 4 extruders. We are also considering supporting a 16 driver config because we also want to suppport a hash configuration such as youtube com/watch?v=Lo-ymCO0Ekw and with dual motors per hash axis that would be 8 XY motors, which is kinda insane but making a slightly bigger board and a couple of headers and passives isn't that much more cost for a pretty expensive board anyways. There is a possibility of just having 2 board designs or a board + expansion.
>STM32H7 series MCU
We are going for the H7 series because, well why not, it's already a pretty insane board, and the extra oomph won't be a drawback. The model we will go for is not really decided yet but we are pretty sure we are gonna beef it up as much as possible. It will be a 168 IO model that is for sure.
>24V
Happy medium, enough said.
>Bed heater
If you are the type of person who will want this board you probably have a mains bed so nothing special. Bring your own SSR.
>BLTouch, Pinda support
>All the usual end stop ports
>Possibly dual microfit + standard molex connector ports since microfit is sooo much nicer.
>Support for 4 hotends with 5A per hotend which at 120W should be fine but I still have to check with the mosquito magnum+
>5V DCDC 5A (for the Pi/Pi derivative you will inevitably connect to it)
>12V DCDC 5A
>Probably 2oz copper pour so the traces can be a bit thinner
>LCD/TFT support not guaranteed not sure if we want to put it on there since people will most likely use a 20 dollar orangepi board with this anyways
This is the specs we got for now, any other ideas what would be nice on such a no compromise board?
>>
>>2037939
I'd go with an OMAP instead.
You can use the PRUs for real-time shit.
While also having a full networked Linux environment that can run Octoprint, a slicer, and klipper.
>>
>>2037941
Fair point but you lose a lot on compatibility with other firmware projects. Less complexity, less place for something to break, easier design etc. Pi boards have gotten so cheap that there is no real reason to run OMAP unless you want to really run all on the same board. And introducing that would rule out a lot of people from wanting to run the board on marlin "normally".
>>
>>2037809
>"I know printing"
>It's the fault of the filament that my hot end isn't assembled correctly and that I'm completely inattentive when trying to print with unfamiliar filament
>>
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>>2037809
gaylien3d is my fave
>>
Bros how does the hardware part of a BLtouch work? Does it just output a pulse when the noodle hits the surface?
>>
Are there any advantages to this set up? It seems that there is a main wire or ribbon that runs somewhere and then from there, you connect these boards to the various axis and hotend. Is this sort of thing compatible with any printer or specifically just this one? Seems like a neat idea to control the wires. I think the CR-10 S Pro does the same thing but I could be wrong.
>>
>>2037985
Ribbons are the devil's work
>>
>>2037867
Have you put in your exact probe offsets and set safe homing? Try that and see what happens. Dunno if it will help or not.
>>
Hey guys what's the best program for compiling SVG files into Gcode for a CNC?
I'm using the inkscape plugin right now but it's a single threaded python script and it's slow as hell(2 hours per file)
>>
>>2038020
Lightburn is pretty good. What you can use will depend on your controller though.
>>
>>2038020
Wait, is it a laser or a mill?
>>
>>2038048
plotter
>>
>>2038052
Lightburn could be what you're looking for then, you might have to kludge the settings a bit
>>
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>>2037809
Hatchbox, Paramount3D. Paramount's Iron Red is just delicious.
>>
>>2038066
Why the hell does everybody print this lil fella
>>
>>2038080
he's a qt
>>
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Lol my stupid picture is in the op.
It finished fine. Idk the total, probably 70 hours.
It warped to shit but whatever, now it has a nice curved top. It's a design feature.
I'll post the other half and what I'm gonna do to reduce warp later in the week, got some other shit printing rn
>>
So a friend wants me to print them a fish. Any ideas on what filament I should use? I was thinking some sort of wood filament but I don't have any so I'd have to buy some. I'm also not sure on what model to use, they are an avid fisher so maybe a trout or something.
When printing wood filament, if I vary the temperature between layers, can I get some nice looking colors?
>>
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Lol how slow should I run this bad boy
>>
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>>2038299
>>
>>2038299
Vase mode: activate
>>
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who else confirmed?
>>
>>2038299
>how slow
by slow you mean fast right?
>>
>>2038327
Can't go too fast or the hot end won't keep up with the heating requirements.
>>
>>2038299
Finally starting that custom printed filament business I see.
>>
>>2038288
>if I vary the temperature between layers, can I get some nice looking colors?
no. I mean I don't think so. It's depressingly consistent, even when stained. I'm not sure how to get variation, but I'll experiment with my wood PLA if you want to see how something turn out.
>>
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>>2038346
>>2038288
nani? people have been varying temps to get different colors with wood filament for ages now. Plus, if yours doesn't look different after staining, you're definitely doing something wrong along the way.
>>
Someone give me a qrd on Siraya resins, particularly Build
>>
>>2038346
What brand are you using?
>>
>>2038282
Is it a mouse maze?
>>
>>2038409
SUNLU

>>2038349
okay so I print at 190º how hot do I need to go to get darker? edit gcode direct or is there a way to do this in cura?
>>
>>2038410
>>2038282
I'm guessing some kind of mini BASS tube speaker meme.
>>
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>>2038429
Yes.
It's for a mr2, and it's still a bit big and I dunno where to mount it, but it's hopefully gonna make a nice piece to what little sound system there is.

Various mounts and bits I made today, need tons of revision, but the concept works and the attachment point to the car at least is solid and very satisfactory.
>>
>>2038428
Manually adjust temp on the fly when you get to the target z axis. P sure prusaslicer supports different Temps at different z
>>
I think this is a neat idea, although I'm not sure it's $330 neat. I can only imagine how much shipping from Singapore would be, too!
>>
should i get a uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh yogurt maker?
>>
>>2038460
how about a self termination machine instead?
>>
>>2038497
Maybe.
I read recently that putting freshly printed pieces on hot water for a half hour makes them stronger and after a quick search only yogurt machines do that apparently.
>>
>>2038501
...what....?
i think you mean annealing with water people do that i guess i never have
maybe better solution for making a stronger print is to use a stronger filament
>>
>>2038536
Does using a stronger filament help with the bonding?
>>
>>2038545
what exactly are you trying to do? improve your interlayer adhesion? you could try printing a temperature tower and then do a destructive test to see what temperature makes the best bond.
>>
>>2038545
>>2038587
Layer adhesion is almost always the fault of incorrect slicer settings, bad filament, or even just your design is shit.
In my experience, temperature is kinda just you set it to what everyone else uses and it works.
>>
>>2038299
Wtf, this defeats the purpose of a nozzle
>>
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>printer running well
>happy with results
>no needs for improvements to be found
>ordered pei springsheet yesterday
>ordered linear rail for Y 15min ago
>tfw chasing diminishing returns
another 100€ out the window, I think I need help
>>
>>2038631
Only yourself to blame
If you cant hold still, get a second printer of different style as second setup, like a delta
>>
>>2037939
Up to 150 GPIO used in the design right now, it's gonna be tight. That is for the 16 driver model, 12 driver is at 122 GPIO. Do you guys think a screen port should be included? If yes it should probably be a TFT screen as most of those only require RX/TX. We don't think we will include expansion ports really, probably won't have any extra gpio left in the end. 6 GPIO for an ESP8266 also seems like a waste but if we have pins left I guess it could be useful.
>>
>>2038631
Build a V0 or K3 or if you have money a K2 if you really want to make a significant upgrade.
>>
paint on supports are pretty neat
>>
>>2038663
What program is that?
>>
>>2038665
(Trigger Warning: Czech hipsters)
PrusaSlicer
>>
>>2038660
>K2
It's too bad their BOM doesn't have an estimated price. 400 mm/s^2 sounds pretty interesting.
>>
>>2038668
2.3k euro, from experience
2k USD
>>
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>>2038637
>>2038660
>second printer
I thought about getting a sla-printer and now that I have built a small spraypaint booth with airducts out the window I consider ordering one
>want to start a 8h print before going to bed yesterday night
>naah just do it tomorrow
>Y-belt snapped 2h in
>>
>>2038695
you using a legit gates?
>>
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>>2038696
I'm afraid that I don't understand your question
I'm using whatever creality sent me after ordering an ender3pro
>>
>>2038700
Then I got no idea hm. Get a genuine gates belt for your printer from trianglelabs from aliexpress for future replacements
>>
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r8 my new high-tech enclosure

Materials used: Two cardboard boxes and some ducttape.
>>
>>2038066
>Hatchbox
Hatchbox grey pla is the worst filament I've ever used. It's so soft it warps no matter what temp you use.
>>
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>>2038705
It even has realistic door-opening action (manual operation only)!
>>
>>2038455
Just buy a twotrees corexy and do some mods.
>>
>>2038708
>>2038705
Nice firestarter anon
>>
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>>2038299
We need to go bigger.
>>
>>2038631
Should have bought a Prusa
>>
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Plotter is a success
>>
>>2038714
There's no way the inside will get hot enough to ignite cardboard, so the only way it'll catch on fire is if the printer itself catches on fire first and ignites the cardboard.
>>
>>2038716
Lmao noone with a shred of intelligent thought (unless it's for a business) will buy a fucking prusa. At that price point just start building a hevort or voron or annex preferably. (tho the k3 is still in beta).
>>
>>2038695
Is that second idler stock?
>>
>>2038718
I don't understand why someone hasn't made a tattoo station that can do this yet. Seems like it would be way better than having a human do it, and it's not like we lack the technology now.
>>
>>2038721
>building a hevort or voron or annex
what if you instead want something that will actually work lol
>>
>>2038725
It's hard to account for irregular shapes. Also, people don't stay perfectly still.
>>
>>2038727
just strap them down
>>
>>2038726
All those printers if built correctly are very reliable but that requires skill and money which not all people have. The annex I would put at the top, voron below, and hevort at the bottom for reliability. I'd say a prusa is between an annex and a voron but in capability it's kinda sheit. If you want something that just works TM get a prusa yes. But the second you try printing bigger and faster or larger or with non PLA filaments you are going to be missing out on a prusa (yes you can print ABS on a prusa with an enclosure but print quality won't be nowhere near as good as a proper insulated chamber like on the Annex K2.
Let's face it, prusa is an "Apple" product. If you have money to throw away buy it, if you don't want the best but just the easiest buy it, but if you like the hobby and like learning, build something else.
>>
>>2038727
>irregular shapes
Looks like it did just fine with the image provided which had a lot of "irregular shapes."

>Also, people don't stay perfectly still
And? If human artists can handle it then a machine would do just as good, if not better.
>>
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>>2038732
>Looks like it did just fine with the image provided which had a lot of "irregular shapes."
Yeah no it looks nothing like the vector
I have a long way to go to getting good plots out of it
>>
>>2038718
Post pics of machine please :)
>>
>>2038733
>looks nothing like it
>looks almost exactly like it
Are you having a stroke anon? Are you ok?
>>
>>2038727
Not tattoos but has similar obstacles: There are printers for finger nails, just put the fingers in and it will print pictures on the nail. It has a camera inside to line it up.
>>
>>2038737
look at the cross hatching to the right of the eye
>>2038735
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27_4AWMJG78&feature=youtu.be
just a bog standard prusa mini
>>
>>2038732
>Looks like it did just fine with the image provided which had a lot of "irregular shapes."
Irregularly shaped surfaces, you mong. Like a human body.
>>
>>2038744
>can buy some chink shit printer for $250 and a sensor for $40 that measures .01 mm differences within a print surface
>can't do that because "HOOMAN SHAPE LOL"
You're the mong here.
>>
>>2038744
you could just grab their skin with some kind of clamp flatten it out
>>
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>>2038695
I don't know how you managed the feat of busting a belt with stock hardware.
I've been running pic related setup with a shitty printed pulley for almost a year and there is very little wear on the belt. Belt is some cheap ass chinesium shit from Ali.
>>
i've been having trouble getting my ender 3v2 to print well after switching to the micro swiss all metal hot end, and now i notice that the nozzle temperature is getting way too hot than what i set the temperature at (for example i have the temp set to 195 and it would continue rising) until it gets to 260 C and gives a continuous beep along with "nozzle temperature too hot" message. did i fuck something up?
even when i just preheat the machine without putting in a print it goes hotter than what its set to.
>>
>>2038749
>I don't know how you managed the feat of busting a belt with stock hardware.
Fascinates me too
>>
>>2038695
Should have bought a Prusa, comes with legit Gates belts among other things.
>>
>>2038745
You're just completely clueless, aren't you?
>>
>>2038750
Well yeah you did, you bought chinkshit
>>
>>2038750
You should do PID tuning. Tom has a good guide on it. It's quick.
>>
>>2038750
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APzJfYAgFkQ
>>
>>2038750
>did i fuck something up?
Yes, you fell for the microswiss meme, but that's besides the point.
The heater is calibrated to work well with the stock hotend, now that you changed the hotend you need to get that shit done for the new hotend. You want to do a PID autotune, you can find plenty of tutorials online on how to do it.
>>
>>2038752
or just spend 15 bucks on 2 meters of legit gates belts
>>
>>2038752
Ok Iosif
Thanks for the advertisement.
>>
>>2038631
hope you ordered a y carriage that will actually work with your rail too.
>>
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>>2038769
I havent, will just drill on my existing carriage or cut one from a plate of carbon fiber I have in a drawer.
>>2038752
I bought the ender as my first printer to cut losses in case I didnt stick to the hobby. I found some gt2 belt in a drawer, downtime was 15min and nothing of value was lost. Prusas are nice but I'd only recommend them for businesses or people without time/ technical knowledge
>>2038724
yes its stock
>>2038701
I put it in my shopping cart together with a mosquito-clone and 0.9deg steppers from TL
>>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zsjlP-UKjY
He is still going after you faggots doxxed him. Why don't you guys do something productive like this instead of trying to run him out of business?
>>
>>2038787
cringe
>>
>>2037934
>Also, in what world is an Ender 3 V2 $400?
its $400 when you buy a "pre-inspected and turn key" ender 3 with $50 of upgrades.
>>
been thinking about getting a large volume 3d printer, and was wondering which is "better" between an ender 5 plus and a cr10v3, would the ender 5 print faster because it doesent need to move a large build plate around? and how easy is it to upgrade the 2 printers?
>>
>>2038787
gaylactic armory plz go
>>
>>2038787
>Why don't you guys do something productive like this instead of trying to run him out of business?
In the actual business world, it would be productive to run him out of business as he is a competitor.
>>
Should I add "BED_MESH_CALIBRATE" to my cura's Start G-Code? Would it do what I think it does and probe the bed and use that fresh mesh only for that print and lose those values on power off?
>>
>>2038836
it would do nothing because strings are not valid gcode.
>>
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>>2038749
>printed stepper bracket
Why?
>>
>>2038826
A8 Plus
>>
>>2038841
It does, it probes and all that jazz, just interested in knowing if it uses the value if I don't save it, because saving resets the printer
>>
will I hate myself if I try to do one of these make your own printer from spare parts things?
I already have half the parts I need
>>
>>2038850
Yeah I wanna know what it does too
>>
>>2038863
If you care about getting good prints without hassle: Yes.
If you just enjoy building and tinkering: No.
>>
>>2038850
>>2038866
I upgraded to a 48mm stepper for increased torque, but with the original bracket the bed carriage would hit the motor.
The printed one is longer so the stepper clears the bed.
It looks funny with that bevel at the base but it was required because it's ABS and it would bend when tensioning the belt otherwise. There's also some bracing on the inside to make it stiffer and the extra holes allow easy access to the screws.
>>
>>2038872
>I upgraded to a 48mm stepper for increased torque, but with the original bracket the bed carriage would hit the motor.
i also did this, but my solution was to take a hacksaw to the y carriage.
>>
>>2038750
I wouldn't be too sure about it being a PID related issue. To my knowledge, the heater block is similar on the Microswiss to the stock Ender 3. I switched from my stock CR-10 heater block to a Slice copperhead without issues. I still tuned the PID after, but it was functioning fine without doing that. Given it's a completely different material, some copper alloy, and the shape is a fair bit different, plus I switched heat break to titanium, nozzle to hardened steel, and a different heat sink, I couldn't see your setup change giving an overshoot of 65°C. I'd probably look into replacing your thermistor, they're cheap anyways.

If you plan on doing high temp filaments anyways, it might be worth picking up a PT1000 (not PT100) since it doesn't require an amplifier like the PT100. Just plugs straight into your existing thermistor port, and you need to change the value for your hotend temp sensor in the firmware. If not just pick up a replacement thermistor for your existing one.
>>
>>2038718
Is that through Inkscape?
>>
>>2038875
While hacksaw is cheaper it's quite brutish for my tastes.
For me this was a good exercise in part design. I made the first version with just 3mm walls all round, no extra reinforcements. It worked but tensioning the belt would also make the bracket bend, also the holes on the opposite side of the motor were too small for the screw to fit through. Knowing this I revised the model and ended up with what I showed above.
>>
>>2038892
yeah
>>
>>2038787
I think he either is risking the lawsuit or negotiated licensing because his entire site, YouTube, and Instagram were all private for a few days shortly after the report was sent to Disney
>>
>>2038455
what's neat about it, that' it's coreXY? see >>2038324 LOL
>>
>>2039005
The upgrade is neat, the price, not so much.
>>
>>2039009
but why upgrade a perfectly good printer when it's cheaper to buy a whole corexy for a similar price (chinkshit fire sale notwithstanding)?
>>
What do you guys use for calipers? I'm trying my hardest not to use Amazon so "whatever is cheapest on Amazon" doesn't work for me.
>>
>>2039046
Whatever's cheapest at home depot.
>>
>>2039046
Mitutoyo. Starrett and Brown and Sharpe are also good. You should be able to get any of those from McMaster-Carr or MSC.
>>
>>2039020
That's what I'm saying! Maybe the Tronxy has a shitty mobo or something.
>>
Why the fuck it print like shit the first 30min
>>
>>2039046
>>2039048
>>2039049
>Whatever's cheapest at home depot.
Will likely not even be accurate to 0.1mm, although confusingly, it will display to 0.01mm (or the nearest imperial equivalent). May be fine for your purpose, but may not. For most FDM 3D-prints it's mostly fine, but do note that battery life on the cheap ones is garbage and this may cause bad readings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnDype-j3hk

>Mitutoyo. Starrett and Brown and Sharpe are also good.
Either of these will likely read to 0.01mm (or even 0.005mm) but will only be accurate to 0.02-0.03mm, which may cause fuckups if you really need them for that kinda accuracy - so use a micrometer for that kinda gig. Brand name units like these are usually overkill for normies, but I've got a pair of TESA's myself and they are great.
My advice: look at second hand dial calipers from a name brand. Cheap as balls since most machinists have ditched them for digital calipers, but the battery won't run out and they're usually just as accurate than digital units. Also, nobody will nick them because reading dials takes effort.
>>
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Why the fuck it print like shit the first 30min?
>>
>>2039049
Damn these are way more expensive than I was expecting. Also, why do you need an accessory to freeze the display with the Mitutoyo ones?
>>2039057
I would have assumed dials would've been more accepted by older machinists and thus be more expensive, I will check them out though.
Thanks anons
>>
>>2039063
>Also, why do you need an accessory to freeze the display with the Mitutoyo ones?
I have never, ever, in my years of using digital calipers needed to freeze the display. If you really need to do that, you can hold the ORIGIN button to set the caliper's zero to the current reading, then close them and it will read, and persist through power cycling, the negative of whatever reading you saved. To reset, close the calipers and hold origin again.
>>
>>2038872
>I upgraded to a 48mm stepper for increased torque
why would you need to do this?
>>
>>2039057
Cheapest harbor freight calipers are most certainly accurate and repeatable to 0.01mm you're fucking insane anon
>>
>>2038324
Lmao why did you get the 330mm bed. Why even bother unless it's 400+
>>
>>2039057
>Will likely not even be accurate to 0.1mm
Cheap calipers are every bit as repeatable and accurate as high end brands.
This has been known and proven over and over and over again for years.
Not sure why you are pretending its not.

>look at second hand dial calipers from a name brand
Oh thats why, because you are stupid

>>2039063
>I would have assumed dials would've been more accepted by older machinists and thus be more expensive
Everyone has gone to digital calipers because calipers are not precision tools. Digital are far easier to use and are far more reliable, and it doesnt fucking matter when you are measuring to only .0005.

Buy knock off Mitutoyo calipers on ebay, youll be more than pleased with them.
>>
>>2039123
He is going to get a packet of seeds in the mail, and because he has tracking he wont be able to dispute with DHgate
Its a huge scam that used to work on Ebay, so now they are doing it on smaller marketplaces.

Good luck getting your cash back.
>>
>>2038776
>0.9deg steppers from TL
why
i understand going for 0.9° when you buy new but as an upgrade this is wasted money
you will not see any benefit form that
>>
>>2039127
Idk what shithole bank you use, but my credit union will reverse the charges (almost) no questions asked.
>>
>>2039155
Go ahead and get your paypal account banned.
Im sure that was worth buying into an obvious scam
>>
>>2039158
I didn't use paypal and i already got my PayPal suspended for issuing a chargeback (successfully) when they tried to rip me off so who gives a fuck about PayPal? You're a fucking idiot bro, Im not the op but I bought the 400mm version and I'll be here when it arrives in a few weeks to rub it in your ugly face.
>>
>>2039158
Now this, this was a scam. I got my $3 refunded though so no loss but you keep screaming about nonsense if that's what makes you cum ¯\_ಠ_ಠ_/¯
>>
So is it actually possible to get a print off an ender 3 without artifacts?
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>>2039168
Yes?
>>
>>2039161
>I'll be here when it arrives in a few weeks to rub it in your ugly face.
Dont worry, Ill be here anon.
>>
>>2039173
I don't know why but this print just looks bad to me for some reason
maybe it's just the dull grey filament
>>
>>2039179
The grey is ugly, but the intent is to paint
>>
>>2039168
yes/no
a 99% tuned machine will still show belt ripple depending on the light, when printing straight walls parallel to an axis.
Roundish object tend to hide those.
all of the other common artifact you can get rid of with the right settings and careful assemble
>>2039179
is also poor lighting and piss poor resolution, not an ideal pic to brag desu
>>
>>2039184
Just to show 4 days of print time don't show any obvious defects. Ender 3 is a perfectly fine machine
>>
>>2039188
mate there is a world of difference between artifact and defect
not to insult you, the rocket is well done
>>
>>2039190
Artifacts / defects 6 / half dozen

If everything is clean and new, pom wheels, etc and you print slowly I don't see any arifacting, ringing, "belt ripple". I think a lot of people run belts way too loose even with a tensioner
>>
>>2039193
Another thing I forgot; toothed tensioner
>>
>>2038744
maybe you could make some rig that could clamp a person's arm down, scan their arm surface with a laser, and then lay the tatto on the scanned surface. It would probably only work good on arms though and be prohibitively expensive and still probably finicky. A tattoo artist can work on basically any part of the body which will bring in a lot more customers and be worth the long term cost of having them on the payroll. Keep in mind also that the best tattoo artists also make original art which also attracts customers who will pay more for their art. The only thing I could see making a dent in that profession is something like those pads they had in divergent where it sticks to their skin and prints something, but otherwise people will still pay good money for original art.
>>
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>>2039202
nothing says digital art can't be or isn't original. plus people copy tattoos all the time, even 100% original "unique" works, some douche will go get a copy.

the advantage of a printed tattoo would be consistency... no "OOPS" and no "yeah I know you asked for a rose but I was feeling this Venom dude you know" (which also happens)

I'm not OP but it's a thought I've had many times: how to make a tattoo printer. Technical difficulties aside, imagine the print fails!
>>
>>2037746
Looking for a box style printer for improved rigidity and a larger bed, but I'm torn between a Tronxy X5SA and an Ender 5. CoreXY sounds cool but what really attracts me to the Tronxy is the fact that both Z axis leadscrews are on opposite sides of the bed. The Ender 5 with it's single leadscrew on the rear makes me concerned about bed droop.
Is the ender 5 design rigid enough? Is a coreXY printer difficult to set up for a first kit build? Are my concerns completely unfounded and should I just flip a coin?
>>
>>2039265
>improved rigidity
you my friend want a delta. you won't get one of course. the corexy shouldn't be any harder to build and set up than anything other than a delta.

also you don't need a larger bed for a first printer, you've got maybe one thing you might print that might need the larger bed.
>>
What acceleration and jerk settings are you faggots using on Marlin ender 3?
>>
>>2039280
.4
>>
>>2039278
I'm mostly looking from a step up from the Ender 3 with the same or larger build volume. The Mac Daddy takes up the entire plate of the Ender 3 so I would prefer over travel.
I'll most likely end up with the Tronxy, the one I'm looking at comes with a probe so that's what I'll lean towards.
>>
>>2039310
>I'll most likely end up with the Tronxy
I didn't find any reason to not get a Tronxy when I was ordering.
>>
>>2039349
after reading a bunch of amazon reviews on it i wouldnt buy one of course ymmv
>>
>>2039146
>but as an upgrade this is wasted money
>you will not see any benefit form that
Why do you say that? I thought the whole point of going from 1.8° to 0.9° was for more steps and therefore more accuracy and better resolution, better prints.
>>
>>2039146
>>2039407
>>2038776
Don't buy any chinese steppers except LDO, they really are quality.
>>
For only $300, you can turn your failed shit in to new shit so you can print some more shit. Pretty sweet.
>>
>>2039474
Or do like they did 10 years ago and buy bulk manufacturing plastic for dollars which is just a 50lb bag of pellets and melt em down to pull filament out
>>
>>2039477
You know what? Lets just skip the filament altogether.
>>
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>>2039483
how does that retract?
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>>2039498
It don't, generally.
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Anybody know where to get some replacement parts for an Ender 3 V2?
While replacing my nozzle I broke the threading in the green bracket. It still hold the hotend well enough but i can feel that the thread is almost gone.
>>
>>2039118
No, they read to 0.01mm.
https://ecatalog.mitutoyo.com/ABSOLUTE-Super-Caliper-SERIES-500-No-battery-or-origin-reset-needed-C1383.aspx
Mitutoyo says their calipers are only accurate to 0.02mm, which is mostly due to the geometry of calipers themselves. Harbor Freight calipers are undoubtably worse, and they say so on their website:
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-dial-caliper-63730.html
>Note: Specifications are approximate and subject to change
So yeah, their 0.001inch (0.025mm) accuracy rating is worth as much as the paper it's printed on. Even they admit it won't be accurate to 0.01mm.

>>2039124
>Cheap calipers are every bit as repeatable and accurate as high end brands.
Did you even read the video?
>>
>>2039534
this looks pretty much like the ender3 v1 plate, minus the small slot. best bet would be asking creality, order one on Ali/ebay or just fix it by recutting the threat/ drill through and use a nut
>>
>>2039058
It may just be me but it looks like the bed is off, right corner might be too high because it looks to me like its scraping/extruding too close and all the excess is getting squeezed out and dragged by the nozle
>>
On a scale of:
>It just werks!™
to
>sudo rm -rfv / —no-preserve-root
How hard is it to set up Klipper for a first-timer on a Raspberry Pi?
>>
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>>2039553
my Linux+programming levels are "I can follow a YouTube video and search google" and i got it running so if you can copy+paste you're fine.
>>
>>2039559
Was it worth the trouble to you?
>>
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I see this, I give the right lower screw a few turns, run bedmesh again and it only gets worse...
How the hell does somebody bed level with a BLTouch? Assisted bed leveling doesn't work anymore on Klipper with the probe attached.
>>
>>2039542
Yeah bullshit.
The calipers have the stated repeatability they say on the tin. Full stop faggot. The geometry of the calipers precludes humans making those level of accurate measurements but the underlying hardware is fully and entirely capable of that repeatability. Fuck off.
>>
>>2039631
>the underlying hardware is fully and entirely capable of that repeatability.
No it's not.
>>
>>2039542
You're full of shit and you can't even read the page you yourself fucking linked suicide asap
>>
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>>2039644
>Cheapest harbor freight calipers are most certainly accurate and repeatable to 0.01mm
Mitu's are accurate to 0.02mm, HF ain't, and they most certainly aren't accurate to 0.01mm.
>>
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How much of a fire hazard is it if I run my printer unattended? I'm using an Ender 3 with PLA.

If letting it run unattended is a bad idea, what's everyone's advice for making big prints?
>>
>>2039650
Idiot.
The HUMAN can't make the same measurements due to the calipers themselves.
THE HARDWARE, AS STATED IN THE TECH DOCUMENTATION YOU LINKED is fully capable of 0.01mm repeatability. FULL STOP.
>>
>>2039652
Flash Marlin if you haven't and enable thermal runaway protection and pray, or pay for spaghetti detective and run octoprint. I refuse to pay for a fucking webcam service, suck my entire cock.
>>
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the J tech photonics inkscape plugin had some problems with generating gcode
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>>2039677
same SVG in lightburn
shame you have to pay for ir
>>
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The plot
damn shame it has those 2 tiny errors
>>
>>2039683
That's not a vector image, why not engrave it as a bitmap with something like LaserGRBL?
>>
>>2039657
Repeatability does not mean accuracy. The hardware is incapable of 0.01mm accuracy.
>>
>>2039685
You can get nice smooth lines with vectors
>>
>>2039688
If the resolution is high enough you'll also get them with raster.
Like on your screen.
>>
>>2039692
wouldn't smooth lines be more suited to a CNC machine?
anyways you can only print in one shade with a single pen so you have to loose everything that isn't a vectorizable line anyways
seems like a no brainer to vectorize
>>
>>2039694
>wouldn't smooth lines be more suited to a CNC machine?
Your laser engraver can't do curves anyway. It's strictly X,Y in specific step lengths. So even your vector image gets essentially rasterized.
>>
>>2039701
it's way more precise than most images
>>
>>2039706
It doesn't make a difference in precision.
It can only move in a specific grid, no matter what you do. The smallest distance your stepper can move is fixed.

What can happen is stuff like a visible line patterns or Moiré effects. Which can be countered by adjusting the scan gap, scanning at an angle, etc..
>>
>>2039714
I would rather run my image through inkcape so I have a chance to mess with it and clean it up
>>
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>>2039686
Imagine being this much of an actual retard. I bet you own an anet
>>
>>2039580
it improved the printspeed and quality but even without that seeing how i can control everything via a browser interface on my phone/tablet instead of the clunky rotary knob I'd say yes, very convenient and well worth the RPI+time
>>
>>2039657
>The HUMAN can't make the same measurements due to the calipers themselves.
why not? there is an LCD screen and all
>>
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There, now we can go back to arguing about more relevant things like bowden -vs- direct drive, corexy -vs- corexz, creality -vs- prusa, etc..
>>
>>2039737
You just got BTFO.
>>
>>2039835
Anon Y Mous lmao
>>
>>2039837
Cool samefag
Weird they say exactly what I fucking said, 0.01mm repeatability wow crazy that's funny what a coincidence huh
Fucking idiot
>>
>>2039923
>Accuracy
>0.02mm
READ NIGGA
>>
>>2039925
Again. Exactly what I said. I get it you are actually this fucking retarded you can't help it.
>>
>>2039926
>>2039925
>>2039923
>>2039837
Look at the timestamps faggot has been hovering over this thread thinking to himself
>Boy I sure got him this time
Literally precumming waiting for a reply. Kek what an actual nonce
>>
>>2039926
Your original statement
>Cheapest harbor freight calipers are most certainly accurate and repeatable to 0.01mm
Is still invalid, because those calipers aren't accurate to 0.01mm, and those specific calipers aren't guaranteed to 0.01mm repeatebility. Mitu's are, but that's a whole different pricetag.
>>
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>>2039929
>>
>>2039929
most non retarded user get a notification upon getting (you)'d
>>
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>>2039835
>arguing about more relevant things
how come that nobody recommends a pei steelsheet as first upgrade on ender printers? imo they are more useful than abl-sensors, weigh less than a glassbed and work even with the most shitty filaments. pic related is "stronghero 3d" petg, it's about as good as you think
>>
>>2039933
>>2039931
Literally beating his dick,
>HA! HE MISSPOKE IVE GOT HIM NOW LADS
Actual pedophile
>>
>>2039937
Steel leaves a shit surface, needs surface prep for some filaments, but that doesn't matter because your pic related shows the actual shit quality your printer is capable of so your first layer surface finish is the least of your worries
>>
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>Shitting up the thread over .0004 burger units on a tool that's going to be used on rough textured plastic
>>
>>2039937
anon you have to stop throwing money at this thing
this is getting out of hand
>>
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Warp now fucker
>>
>>2039947
The part is warping not your build sheet ತ_ʖತ
>>
>>2039948
The big clamps are on the part ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Little clamps gonna just do what they can to keep the sheet attached to the hot plate
>>
>do a couple print for a coworker, collectively its around 120hours and 1.5 spool.
>he repays with a single bottle of beer
>mfw i dont like beer
>mfw i didnt expect anything in return but now im pissed because of this "gesture"
>>
>>2039951
What the shit? Even if you're doing a beer payments, why would you ever give anyone less than a six pack? I'm angry for you.
>>
>>2039951
Post prints
>>
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>>2039946
there is an end in sight, not that much more I can buy for it
>>2039943
i'm getting mirror-like first layers, hard to capture on cam, boxes are already filled and dusty
>shit quality
its transparent petg with 0.4 layers printed as fast as possible, the reflections from the prior pic make it look bad. One day I'll put in a 0.4 nozzle and print a benchy
>>
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>endie spends 400 hours trying to fix their shitty potmetal printer
>it still prints like shit
>mfw prusa chad
>>
>>2039977
josef pls go away
>>
>>2039978
say what you will about his smug punchable face He makes a damn near flawless printer
>>
>>2039982
josef pls
>>
>>2039984
it's almost midnight in the Czech Republic dude.
Do you really think that boomer posts here?
>>
>>2039985
josef
>>
>>2039986
haha I played into your joke and now you actually think I'm him
Well I guess that makes you the fool in this situation
>>
>>2039951
shit man, for a 120 hour print I wouldn't feel bad asking for them to buy the spool. one beer really shows how much they value your time though. thats like tipping a waiter a penny. I wouldn't print shit for free, at least not for them anymore.
>>
So I was reading about idler pulleys and aparantly some think they aren't that great because the teeth on the belt compresses as it goes around the pulley, which can cause issues. One solution is to out a twist in the belt so the flat side rides over the pulley. Another solution is to get a toothed idler pulley instead of the flat kind. What do you guys think?
>>
>>2039949
You mean the magnetic sheet that sticks to the hot plate on its own??
>>
I bought this for my Ender 3. I hope it works well. It should be here this weekend. One anon was talking shit about 3-point leveling but I don't think he was doing it correctly.
>>
>>2040008
>endie buying shitty chinese aftermarket parts to fix his shitty chinese printer
like clockwork
>>
>>2040010
josef pls
>>
>>2040010
There is nothing wrong with my current carriage but I do want to upgrade what I can.
>>
>>2040010
shut up fag i bet you dont even have a printer and if you do its probably a knockoff creality one not even a real cr10 or ender 3 and you got chinked hard thats why you are hating on enders so much
>>
>>2040016
imagine needing to upgrade an integral part of your printer
it's like upgrading the axels on your car
>>
>>2040023
Imagine not upgrading instead
Oh wait...
>>
>>2039995
>which can cause issues
are you having issues then? because I think if you're not having issues you should fuck the shut up and fit the sick down. stop fucking with shit that's not broke because it theoretically could be a problem.
>>
>>2040021
I have an ultimaker >:)
>>
>>2040000
Yeah nah, nah mate.
It lifts up like a mad cunt
>>
>>2039498
>>2039500
reversing the screw drive doesn't retract?
>>
>>2039681
>shame you have to pay
Well, your alternatives are shitty tools that either don't get the job done or take a lot of fucking around, so I'd say it's worth it.
>>
>>2040030
No, no issues that I can tell. But if something can be upgraded then why not upgrade it? That's like keeping the stock hot end on when it works for PLA and not upgrading it to something better.
>>
>>2040032
That's fucked, maybe you didn't get the magnetic sheet then. I don't think they are very expensive.
>>
>>2040051
From my time with the Ender 3, the magnetic force keeping the sheet on there is pretty shitty. The print bed being floppy as fuck doesn't help
>>
>>2039937
A lot of people get beds that are curled up like a potato chip and in those cases the easiest and cheapest solution is often just to slap a sheet of glass on top.
>>
>>2040048
You should at least find some kind of observable variable that could be noticeably improved, otherwise you will have no idea if the mod improved anything or just made things worse
>>
>>2040053
I'm sure the repeated cycles of heating and cooling doesn't help either
>>
>>2037746
The Prusa isn’t better than anything listed in the under $500 category. Fix the sticky.

>>2039280
Off. Keep your belts tight.
>>
>>2040063
Good point... The people that were complaining about their prints had what looked like verticle waves that went through the layers and were along the X and Y axis.
>>
Serious question. Are 3D printed electrical junction boxes up to code (specifically burgerland)? I'm going to do it anyway for a splice I had to make today, and it's going to be buried in drywall, so it hardly *matters* but it got me to wondering what actually makes one of those plastic junction boxes "code".
>>
>>2040088
No, not even remotely.
>>
>>2040051
It is magnetic.
The other print pulled it right up like 10mm high in all corners.
All around the edges too.
All those clamps have done it perfectly and there's minimal warp to this part.
It now has a curved top so whatever
>>
>>2040008
I've got one of these with stiffer springs and a magnetic PEI plate. I use manual mesh leveling and I haven't re-leveled in like 2kg of filament.
>>
>>2040092
why tho?
>>
>>2040088
> Are 3D printed electrical junction boxes up to code
"it depends".
>what actually makes one of those plastic junction boxes "code".
Electrical code is usually both easily googleable and highly dependent on location, e.g. you're not going to find standards related to saltwater flooding and basements in central Arizona but way more likely in coastal regions.
>>
>>2040116
Oh I see what you are saying. That's some pretty serious warping going on then! Id proba KY use some flat bar rare earth magnets to ho, d the corners down, but I have those on hand. You could probably print some sort of corner bracket if you were so inclined.
>>
>>2040118
I bought some of the stiffer sprints, too. I upgraded them already but they were just with hardware store springs. I think I will spray paint my new ones black and then print some fake springs to go around them so I don't fuck up my printer's color scheme. I'm hoping my bed actually gets level because when I make a topography map of it, one corner is always above or below the rest of them. I don't thi m it is warped, I think it's just the 4-points-on-a-plane thing.
>>
>>2039123
I'm not enough of a fag to need more than a 13" dragon dildo. Are you?
>>
>>2040143
Even if it is—whatever—do a manual mesh level and you're sorted.
>>
>>2037746
AHHHH

Ended 3 pro. Was printing good, then bed level got ducked up. Leveled it again, and now it levels perfect after auto home, but then the print starts like 0.030 too high off the bed.

I leveled it at temp, and always double check. It’s very clearly stepping up when it’s time to print. Does it across all the models I tried. What. The. Fuck.
>>
>>2040159
If you're using cura, there is a plugin that allows you to set a z offset. Otherwise, when you use a piece of paper to level, just make sure the paper gets grabbed a little more aggressively.
>>
>>2040160
I will check cura. The paper has a slight amount of resistance, but the gap when the print starts far exceeds that thickness. I’d have to make it grind on the auto home to fill that gap
>>
>>2040161
You may have fucked up your settings in Cura because the default is 0 (meaning it is exactly at the height that it’s homed to)
>>
>>2040180
Haven’t changed any models since the last print. Two identical ones
>>
So if I'm still getting little hershey kisses wherever my nozzle last is before it hops up, is it better to change retraction distance or retraction speed?

Right now i'm at 4mm retraction at 35mm/s
>>
>>2040158
I was fucking with mine too much I think. 5 probes per point, 15 points per axis... It took almost 2 hours to probe the whole bed. I was using UBL. Then I see people just using a 3x3 right before they print and getting good results. I can't even say if the mesh I last built was good or not because I never got around to printing the validation pattern. The last thing I did was make the mesh points as small as possible (3x3) but confined that to 25mm in the center of my bed. I really just wanted it to be 4 points so I could do quick testing of the validation pattern. Anyways, I havent got around to testing that yet, kind of feels pointless since I am changing my carriage this weekend.
>>
>>2040186
If you flash Marlin you can enable Z babystepping and just adjust it while you are printing your skirt or whatever.
>>
>>2040217
I think retraction distance would probably be better. Only one way to find out. I don't know if you've done this tuning yet, but this page will generate some GCode for you that you can test and see what the best retraction settings for you are.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction
>>
>>2037750
replace springs and fuck with it stock for a month
you'll see if you want other things.
if i had to say a must upgrade do the dual gear metal extruder. once you recalibrate your esteps (just look up estep guide on youtube) it works really well and is a hell of a lot more durable than the stock plastic lever one.
>>
>>2040253
Ahh, I was planning to get that anyway, it seems to be a common combo on amazon for 25 $
>>
>>2040139
I p much solved it by adding little feets to the model that end off a few mill below the layers where it starts adding top surface and begins warping. I just added the clamps on the fly. It seemed to be working tits but I had to step out and I'll find out how well it's working later today.
I was honestly tempted to drill holes in the bed and bolt it down to the bed but got lazy, then found the clamps at the store
>>
>>2040159
Give each knob an equal twist, maybe 20° each.
360° is 1.5mm so do math
>>
>>2040259
Don't get the red one unless you are certain that the bolt that holds the second gear is black and is a shoulder bolt. I thought I bought a good one but I got chinked and ended up with a regular bolt on mine.
There are two needle bearings that go over the bolt that the second gear sits on. On a shoulder bolt, they just spin because the shaft is round. But on a regular bolt, the threads will fuck up the needle bearings and that will lead to fucked up extrusion. Not immediately of course and it depends on how much you print.
If you want to get a decent extruder, look for a "bmg extruder". The BondTech is the original one but it's kind of expensive ($80+). The clones are cheap, I think mine was $16. I did get it on Amazon and the listing got removed soon after I bought it, probably because it was counterfeit... But, the good news is there are tons of them on there. Just search for bmg extruder, sort by reviews, and pick one out.
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>>2039977
>Bragging about owning a chinkshit-tier bedflinger
Even it's made in EU, it's still Czechpoo.
>>
Ordered the Microswiss direct drive all metal hot end combo to upgrade my Cr-10S. Also got a spool of NylonG and a hardened A2 nozzle. Very excited to make some super functional parts
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>>2040305
>hey guise check out mah unis makerspace
>t. mr cool
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>>2040324
It's your makerspace if you have the keys.
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>>2040325
i know the janitorial staff gets keys to a lot of places but that doesnt mean the ladies restroom is yours
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>>2040322
That beast looks absolutely badass and is perfect on paper. Yet my ABS and TPU (relatively firm TPU) have been so good from my stock Ender 3 setup with Capricorn tube I can’t justify the price to myself.
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>>2040305
Wow, I wish I had almost $50,000 to blow on printers.
>>
Printed at 0.1 with 0.4 nozzle for the first time yesterday.
Walls look amazing top layer looks like shit. Did no ironing.
Where did I mess up? What's the best shell settings to print slow but good?
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>>2040353
Did you calibrate your extrusion multiplier?
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>>2040353
Pretty sure I messed up when not using any top surface skin layers
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>>2040356
>extrusion multiplier
Like in general or specifically for 0.1mm? because flow is calibrated
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>>2040357
I would try ironing. Some nozzles make it look like shit but I’ve had good results overall. Maybe turn your retraction up a little.
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>>2040366
Gotcha, going to give it another go
>>
Has anyone tried using a 3d printer for scarification?
it seems like it would be pretty easy to mount a knife on one and carve something on your arm
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>>2040074
>Off. Keep your belts tight
That's... That's not how this works...
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50000 what?
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>>2040408
50000 units
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>>2040412
??????????
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>>2040408
Motor steps?
>>
Have any of you ran the OctoPi SD in a VM before? I can't seem to figure it out. I spent a few hours dicking around with it last night. Finally just gave up and went to bed when I realized I didn't need that specific file, I could have just used the regular Raspberry Pi OS and then manually installed OctoPrint.
>inb4 run octoprint natively in windows
I wanted to test Klipper.
>>
>>2040389
I'd probably just use the hot nozzle instead of a knife. I have a gnarly scar on my wrist that I burned in with the wedding ring from my ex wife. Dumb ass move. I usually just tell people it happened from a welding accident.
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>>2040402
That’s exactly how it works. After having fucked with Cura’s “jerk control” shit for a month straight, I found it’s better to leave it off and just regularly tighten up your chassis.
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>>2040467
OctoPi runs on a Raspberry Pi: an ARM.
You can't virtualize it on an x86.
>>
>>2040469
>just regularly tighten up your chassis.
what did he mean by this?
t. delta lad
>>
>>2040389
uneven surface see all the tattoo discussion
>>
>>2040469
I mean in the firmware you idiot
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>>2040475
People make Raspbian VMs all the time though.
>>
>>2040353
Print the top most layer slower than everything else. Also you want a good 3 or 4 horizontal shells on the top.
>>
>>2040481
just use the bltouch to probe the arm and build a mesh first
maybe design something that keeps their arm in place so it doesnt move
laser scan their arm so if it does move its ok
>>
>>2040467
What virtualization software?
Or just use a normal Linux VM and install it there, it should run on x86 just fine...

>>2040475
QEMU supports ARM hosts, apparently with support for raspberry pi hardware.

>>2040508
Why would anyone, who isn't developing raspberry pi software, want to do that?
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>>2040582
I was trying in VirtualBox but just because I already had it installed.
Some people want to test the software out when they don't have a physical Pi. That's my reason for attempting it. I ordered one and it will be here this weekend but I'm getting anxious to use it.
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>>2040591
>I was trying in VirtualBox
That can not work. Virtual box doesn't do instruction set emulation. So you can't run raspbian or any other ARM OS on it.

>Some people want to test the software out when they don't have a physical Pi.
You have to use something like QEMU to emulate Raspberry pi hardware.

If you want to try things out you either have to switch to QEMU, where you should be able to run these OSs or just install an x86 Debian (which is very close to Raspbian) on VirtualBox and install octoprint on that.
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>>2040593
Okay well I will try QEMU tonight then. Most likely I will get the Pi before I figure this stuff out. I was just hoping to familiarize myself with the OS and the software before I attempted it live.
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>>2040596
>I was just hoping to familiarize myself with the OS and the software before I attempted it live.
In that case just running x86 debian will probably bring you the most benefit. It should just werk with VirtualBox and is very similar to what you will be running.
If you can set up octoprint there you will be able to set it up on a raspberry pi.
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>>2037746
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L337KpcwrPk
>>
the cr10 i got was fucked with by an idiot. how do I wipe and reflash the board and bootloader? ive tried chris rileys video but it says

Error: The program size (129894 bytes) is greater than maximum allowed (126976 bytes)

it has some TH3D marlin on there that doesnt respond. i want to wipe it all and restart the process. I want to git gud at this and never have teh same problem twice if I can help it.
>>
>>2040684
if you can even attempt to flash it, the bootloader is fine, so don't fuck with it. download the firmware you want, open it in the arduino IDE, make any changes you need, and upload.
>>
>>2040597
My Pi is actually out for delivery a couple of days early, so looks like I just wasted time trying to figure it out. Oh well, thanks for the info anyways.
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>>2040330
>being so triggered about someone else buying something that you have to jump in and convince anons that it's a good thing™ that you cant afford something
>>
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>>2040596
>>2040597
You guys do realise octoprint runs just fine on a normal x86 linux, right? Just install it normally, start it up, and navigate to 127.0.0.1:5000 in your browser to explore all its wonderful menus.
>>
>>2040353
>>2040366
Fucking aced it!
>>
>>2040483
Just keep your belts tight, lad.
>>
>>2040774 forgot pic like an idiot
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>>2040578
>we cyberpunk now

>>2040727
why buy expensive thing when cheap thing do trick?

>>2040761
F
>>
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The new glass bed for my ender 3 pro just arrived, do I really need to take the magnetic sticker off? I kinda want the option to go back to it if I need to
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>>2040806
removing it will make the glass heat faster, but otherwise you should be okay leaving it.
>>
>>2040798
Your "trick" might be appallingly shit to someone who has the money for a better alternative.
>>
>>2040843
sauce?
>>
>>2040859
well I certainly wasn't expecting it to be MLP but thanks
>>
>>2040763
The point of the exercise was to familiarize myself with the OS and software before I actually got the hardware to install it on. But, it's almost here so looks like I get to dive right in instead.
>>
>>2040774
>>2040793
Looks great, but what is it?
>>
Any tips on calibrating flow rate for tpu, ninjaflex in particular?
>>
>>2040912
Wouldn't you just calibrate it like usual? Print a small box of known dimensions with no top and one or two thickness wall, measure the walls, do some quick math to figure out the difference and make that your flow rate?
>>
>>2040930
I'm guessing so, I've tried doing that and I still end up with gaps in the top layers though, so I was wondering if there was anything special to do since it is flexible.
>>
>>2040937
What speed and temperature are you printing at?
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>>2040843
uhh, but why?
>>
>>2040860
>wasn't expecting it to be MLP but thanks
Where else would you find tits put right next to the fun bits like that, other than /d/? Or are you into some kind of horrible midget fantasies?
>>
>>2040954
idk I just thought it'd be normal anthro furry porn with anatomically correct tits or whatever
>>
>>2040956
yeah sure you did horsefucker
>>
>>2040956
only horsefucker and old furries from like the 90's do those kinds of things anymore, anon, sorry to tell you
>>
>>2040860
>>2040954
>>2040956
>>2040960
>>2040962
had to go to the archive hoping for some cool printed twilight sparkle thing or pinkie pie and it's fucking markerfag.
>>
>>2040866
>>2040793
Looks like a Metal Slug tread to me
>>
New Thread
>>2041010
>>
>>2040789
I'm printing faster than what you use as a travel speed, i bet.
>>
>>2040839
You’re not impressing anyone here with your money, partner.
>>
>>2041066
Doubtful.
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>>2041103
careful you might trigger him again
>>
>>2040763
>You guys do realise octoprint runs just fine on a normal x86 linux, right?
That was exactly what I said...



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