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Do You Know How Fast You Were Printing Back There? Edition
Old thread: >>2032312
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, Lulzbot Mini (If you want to wait months for it to show up)
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright.
>>
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>>2034502
I use 3D Solutech and have had no problem about bleed through for any of my signs at 0.1 inch (2.54mm) and some thinner than that at 1.27mm for 12V led signs.
>>
I got bored this evening and looked on thingiverse for something interesting
Do people really? Like all the popular ones are just shit to rice your ender 3 or some politician sitting on a chair
>>
>>2034511
Why a pill sign?
>>
>>2034513
drugs lmfao
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>>2034513
>>2034514
To sell on Etsy to Dr. Mario fans... or pharmacists. Who else would buy them?
>>
>>2034502
Just go buy a 50 cent paint brush kit and get one of those $1 bottles of black paint in the arts and crafts isle of any department store. You won't have any issue with light bleed through no matter what filament you use.
>>
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no memes serious talk

im rebuilding my replicator clone and throwing out the og plastic bed arms
is this construction feasible or will those bearings bind up when loaded on an angle? The original part uses 2 short lMUU per side
>>
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nth for wanting to order a TL mosqiito-clone and some 0,9degree x+y steppers but that probably would arrive in 2months
ordered a 5.5W* cutting laser over a week ago and its still not in shipping, thanks new year
>>2034515
in pink/lightblue? probably trannies in the making vor people who link synthwave/ 80s aesthetics
>>
>>2034527
Yeah, the colors work really well together. I could make whatever color combination, but it would take buying multiple colors then making to order. That could be done, but if nobody wants like yellow or orange then I'm stuck with unusable stock.
>>
>>2034515
I'd buy a purple and green one.
>>
first time buyer, everyone is telling me to get en ender 3
it gud?
>>
>>2034551
I have an ender 3 V2 and a flash forge dreamer. The dreamer was more plug and play, and something that is simple may be your best bet if you're new to 3D printing. That being said if you don't mind tinkering, doing some research, and getting some cheap upgrades the ender 3 V2 can be an excellent machine.
>>
>>2034551
no
>>
>>2034551
It's functional and cheap, but you'll need some patience to set it up and dial it in.
>>
>>2034551
>it gud?
Sort of. It's the best value for money and as a first printer it's good enough. You don't want to spend a lot of money on a quality printer only to then end up printing two figurines from thingiverse and then having the printer collect dust and decay into a useless mess. The Ender gives you a taste of printing, teaches you how things work, and if you don't end up using it regularly you at least haven't wasted a lot of money.

That's not to say the Ender is bad. You can get high quality prints from it, it just takes a bit of tuning. Buying a more expensive printer means that tuning is already done, and you get luxury features like automatic bed leveling (which isn't difficult to do manually anyway).
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It's so hairy
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Does this look like a typical G26 mesh for a glass bed? I'm just using mirror glass from Lowe's. I had to set it up where the edges are 26mm in on all sides because of my probe offset, it wouldn't get the right side of the bed. I made it symmetrical even though I didn't need to (probe cold reach the edge on the front, back, and left side).
I feel like it should be flatter because, well, it's glass. But maybe I am missing something. I'm running the probing again for fun (5 probes, discard the atypical reading, take the average). I would bet money that I'm going to get different numbers this time around, just like every other time, and I don't know why. It's driving me nuts because I thought I would get the same numbers each time when nothing has changed. Same bed temp, haven't touched the bed or printed anything.
>>
>>2034542
seconding
>>
>>2034557
>>2034554
i'm in a bit of a pickle since i need something to churn out prototypes for clients and the local makerspaces i was leeching off closed for corona
>>2034556
how fidgety will it be and will calibration stick?
>>
>>2034571
From what I have found the only difference in quality from a $1,000 printer and a $300 one is the settings I use in the slicer. If I use settings that takes time to print I can get a 1 thou dimensional accuracy.

I haven't done any work on my Ender 3 since I got it in December and the print quality is still just as good as the day I tuned it. However, the same can be said for my dreamer.
>>
>>2034520
While not an optimal configuration a similar setup has served me well for over 8 years now. and my bed weighs in at over 1kg.
>>
>>2034571
Well, if you know you'll be producing prototypes for the future as well, it might be worth investing a bit more for a superior machine. If you may need to print things that are bigger than 235x235x250 I would look at Ender 5 or Ender 5 Pro. These are XY printers which also lets you use higher speeds (the bed moving back and forth on the Ender 3 and Prusa style printers causes "ringing" patterns in prints if the Y-axis speeds are higher than about 50mm/s).
>>
>>2034576
sounds good
since 2 of the original bearings are shot i will give it a try.
buy 2 bearing flange ones and cast the frame
>>
>>2034568
>I would bet money that I'm going to get different numbers this time around, just like every other time
So every time you make a mesh, the hills and valleys are in different places? Like the right side of the bed isn't always measured low? And the left is always high?

Different numbers every time could make sense, but only if the mesh is still showing the same general topigraphical pattern.
>>
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Hi, the Ender-hating Prusa-cock-sucking mega-faggot retard-who-cant-how-to-level-a-bed-with-a-fucking-sheet-of-paper from a few threads ago is back.
Managed to level my bed somewhat and started printing like crazy for four days.
The level bed area was small so I could not batch it and had to print every box separately and change it every 3/5 hours and the ender is in my bedroom and I couldn't sleep so I printed until I got so tired I could get a few hours nap despite the fans and the stepper motors and then I would wake up and print again and my day-night cycle reversed so I slept during the day and printed during the night.
Printed some shitty boxes but they're only prototypes so thats ok.
I still can't level for shit and they finally shipped my BLTouch that I have all my bets on to fix stuff enough so I can get a full-bed print, not only the middle.
Stopped sucking Prusa cock and instead thinking of sucking Chiron cock, if you want an update on my sexuality.
>>
>>2034599
Yes, anon, we know you're tsundere for the Ender, no need to tell us.
>>
>>2034599
What is this trash you've printed?
>>
>>2034604
boxes anon
they will hold relays inside for my relay computer
the only one finished is that NOT gate
that long one will be a RING OSCILLATOR which is gonna be really fun
8 relays in a ring all clicking and clacking around, starting slow with undervolting then raising the voltage and making them dance dance dance
>>
>>2034467
That's pretty cool. Did you observe the cutting? How long did it take? Did you call around first or just go to a machine shop? I've been thinking of doing something similar.
>>
Why does my ender3 keep skipping on the extruder.
I'm printing petg, I adjusted E steps, and the temp is at fucking 260 and it's still clicking constantly.

It also completely can't make a top layer even over 20% infill and is hairier than my dick
>>
>>2034629
Sounds like you have a clogged nozzle. Heat it up, pull the filament out, and shove the nozzle cleaner back and forth a few times. Then extrude filament until it comes out smooth. You may need to repeat a few times.
I usually don't bother and just change the nozzle entirely. Chinese brass nozzles are a dollar a piece including shipping, I just bought a bag of twenty a few years ago and haven't run out still.
>>
>>2034631
It comes out smooth tho
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>>2034612
this demo box (not finished yet but you might start getting the idea) that covers the whole Ender bed will contain the long oscillator box inside.
there will be a light bulb protruding from the lid, a tumbler-switch protruding from a wall, and a small opening in the back for power wires to go in
in that demo box I will demonstrate the ring oscillator in its full glory

also I really need a bigger printer, I will have multi-story cube-demo-box designs in the future. it will be like a relay box but will hold other relay boxes instead of relays.
>>
>>2034584
Yeah it's all over the place. One test, the right two quadrants were basically flat and in the next, they weren't. I did use TeachingTech's guide and he increased the probe speed from 4*60 to 20*60 and said something along the lines of he thought it was accurate enough, the speed outweighed the slight loss in accuracy. For the mesh I posted, I brought the speed back down to default. Currently running through a few tests so I haven't had a chance to look at the results yet. But maybe it has to do with taking the average of the 5-1 probes.
Do you think it is better to have a mesh that covers the entire bed or a mesh that is symmetrical or does it matter? For all my previous tests, I was trying to cover as much of the bed as possible. But for the current round of testing, I basically set all the edges to the limit for the column that wouldn't print, so I ended up getting 100/100 points instead of 91. I won't know the results of my testing until tonight but I hope the numbers are the same or close to. It's really irritating.
>>
>>2034632
Try it anyway. I've had it look like it's working perfectly except for occasional clicking and persistent underextrusion. Cleaned it once and it was back to working as if new.
>>
>>2034599
Wait, so the guy that can barely level a bed over the span of a couple of weeks and whinges about an Ender not being a Prusa is the same tool that uses OpenSCAD? I am not surprised in the least.
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>>2034637
>>2034612
>>2034599
>>
>>2034599
Can we call you EHPCSMFRWCHTLABWAFSOP for short?
>>
>>2034507
Anyone know how to run solidworks offline long term. So I don't have to connect it to the internet at all and can just run the software locally without it needing to connect every 48 hours or so
>>
>>2034713
>To work in offline mode, in the SOLIDWORKS title bar, right-click the Login icon and select Take License Offline. You can continue to use the product for 30 days without reconnecting to internet. At the end of 30 days, you must select 'Take License Offline' again if you wish to continue working in offline mode.
>>
>>2034715
True but I'm asking how do I get around that completely so that it doesn't connect to their servers. Can I get the Solidworks license to communicate with a private server to allow infinite use ??
>>
>>2034719
You can only "check out" a license for offline use for a month.
>>
>>2034719
You mean crack it? Just download one of the ones on your favourite torrent site, the one with cracked flexnet server works fine and doesn't even have to be blocked in the firewall.
>>
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I paid for the WHOLE PLATTER and I'm gonna use it.
>>
>>2034512
That politician is bernie sanders you fascist pig!

It really helps if you look for something specific, like "statue" or "pig". Unfortunately the site itself is a gigantic pile of crap so even when search isn't broken the paging doesn't work or whatever. Bernie is just the latest meme thing, before that it was 70% baby yoda.
>>
>>2034761
At least it's not yet another air guitar.
>>
>>2034599
you mean can't design a simple circuit for shit guy? also nice fucking sharpie. add can't use rendered text to your resume of suck.
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>>2034599
>>
>>2034668
Hey, I use openSCAD and I built my printer from scratch with zero experience with printers.
What do you have against it?
>>
>>2034760
i too did that once and couldnt believe the print finished
>>
>>2034761
So because I don't even care about American stuff, I'm suddenly assumed to follow whatever political enemy you currently hate?
This is why America deserved 9/11.

When I figured most popular I assumed it's sorted by people who actually printed it out. I'm going to guess now that it's simply a likes based thing because haha meme click heart even though I'd never waste time printing it out.
Ah well now I'm printing some massive enclosure so I'm tied up for the next few days
>>
>>2034788
Yeah it seems the only thing stopping a ender3 from printing 240 wide is the psu and the last 5mm kinda floating on the mat. I should have shifted the mat over but this was more funny so I left it
>>
>>2034797
The 220mm ender 3 size is software only. You can absolutely print to the very edge of the bed and beyond if you up the size in your slicer.
>>
>>2034629
I had to loosen my extruder spring recently because PLA was getting deformed to where it had trouble passing through past the extruder.
>>
>>2034797
yeah, if 0-0 is not the nozzle exactly sitting on the corner your wasting print space, lol

but seriously, if you want to max out every mm buildplate it might be worth a shot to move the X endstop and set a minor negative homepostion offset.
>>
>>2034568
You have -0.04 deviation in the worst spot. That's not very bad at all.
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Is it best to order from crealitys own website or from amazon? Im in leaf land if that matters, aliexpress and bangood are both pretty bad in pricing it seems
>>
>>2034811
If you get a faulty printer, Amazon are a lot better at honouring their return policy.
>>
>>2034818
amazon is shit for vendors, they give you money back if you complain about faulty product no questions asked but they usually remove vendors with shitty products people complain about
>>
>>2034800
You can also adjust the limits in the firmware. The travel on my X axis for example is 250mm. The Y axis is less though because it starts at -14mm.
>>
>>2034513
AKIRA
>>
got some interesting questions here that I seem to have posted in the wrong thread. tell me what you think. If I had a 3d printer, I'd like to create custom earrings

>>2034919
>>2034927
>>
>>2034946
You'd need a resin printer, preferably 4K resolution, and small features like pins or suzanne's ears would be very brittle. You could do a resin print and then create a silicone mold of it for pewter casting.
>>
>>2034949
I wonder if the pin could be reinforced somehow. maybe a thin coat of silicone on, a dab just thinly spread on it. but then the locking mechanism wouldn't fit. I'm sure that I'm going to go through so much trial and error with this.

Molds are always great. I've never made a mold of anything, but I've watched plenty of youtube videos of people making molds of stuff.
>>
>>2034965
I think your idea of getting metal pins and putting them in is better, obviously they're stronger but there's also hygiene to consider, anything 3D printed is going to be microporous on the surface, that could be a bacterial nightmare.

but certainly a resin printer would be ideal for the small detail, with the added benefit that it won't take any longer to do a dozen of them at a time than it would to do one
>>
>>2034511
>>2034515
Are these the Adafruit silicone LED strips?
>>
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>>2034986
that's true, I haven't put too much thought into bacteria. I just looked into it and earring mounts are super accessible. I could glue any sort of small 3d printed thing to this and it's an instant earring. I might even end up doing just that.

I don't know if "you" own a resin 3d printer or not, but I'd be happy to share a Blender ".blend" project file with you, or somebody else in this thread, of some earring design and you can print it if you'd like. I just want to see a picture of the finished earring afterwards.
>>
>>2034998
I can print one out for you if you'd like, what I've got in the vat at the moment is pretty nasty yellowy-clear resin but it should be fine for seeing the detail you could achieve.
>>
>>2034998
be warned cheap metal studs will fuck up a lot of people's ears. then again, you get what you pay for and most people who get fucked by cheap earrings know not to use them. also you want a stud you can implant into the resin, the ones you pictured are for setting stones. I'm sure they make glue on studs that are more like a tack (disc on a pin) and you can actually sculpt a hole in the piece put the stud disc in the hole then add resin and cure manually.
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is there a fucking ghost in my room? why does my ender 3 randomly register a press of the dial button when nothing is near it?
>>
>>2035027
the ghost of me fucking your mom
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>>2035010
here's the monkey from before
https://pasteall.org/blend/5979f86b04d94cd5af8ac0bc3b825c90
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>>2035029
>>
>>2035043
you could've requested an STL export if you wanted one. A blend file gives you maximum flexibility over what format you can export to and the freedom to make any changes that you deem necessary (thickening the pin, whatever). You SHOULD have Blender installed if you 3d print stuff.
>>
>>2034998
just be aware that those "925 sterling silver" earring studs are most likely fake. The chinese flood the market with silver -plated- pot metal earrings where there's probably less than a penny's worth of silver on them.

Just something to keep in mind if you actually plan on trying to sell them. Buy an acid test kit and make sure you scratch the shit out of atleast one of them onto the stone to make sure you get past any potential plating. Your customers would rightly be royally pissed if you inadvertently sold them fake silver earrings.
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>>2035047
>You SHOULD have Blender installed if you 3d print stuff.
No, anon, most people here print functional parts so they require CAD, not free modelling.
>>
>>2035047
I have blender which is why I recognize the extreme amount of effort you put into that earring.
>>
>>2035076
Then what's the problem then? you drama queen!
>>
OK monke won't be ready until after the time at which I wish to be asleep so I'll post him tomorrow
>>
>>2035090
awesome. thank you, man! can't wait to see it. I'll be lurking. Go get your ears pierced so you can wear it, too!
>>
>>2034988
no, just some 12V solid color LED silicone strips I got on ebay.
>>
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Look guys I made a necklace. Anyone want the blender file?
>>
>Atomstack Cambrian's hidden cables
I wonder if there is a way to do this on a printer with regular aluminum extrusion like the Ender series.
>>
>>2035131
Looks like hell to fix
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>>2035131
>Flat cables
Pinch it once and it's fucking done
>>
I want a corexy printer like the ender 6 but the build volume of the ender 5 plus. Halp...
>>
>>2034507
Oh wow you featured my raspberry pi beta camera, thanks :) still working on the design, that was just a quick draft.
>>
>>2035129
Stl so I can print it?
>>
When choosing an Orange Pi to run Klipper and OctoPrint on, is it better to go with a model that has a faster CPU or a model with more RAM? I don't care about the network interface because my router is right there, but I would like to be able to have a camera connected to it so I can check my prints from afar.
>>
>>2035129
it looks really low poly...
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>>2035175
Raspberry pi. Orange pi sucks.
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>>2035129
Haha, what a retard
>>
>>2035180
Why does it suck? I was checking them out because an anon recommended them a few threads back. I don't want too spend too much money in order to make this work but I guess I shouldn't complain about the $100 or whatever it will cost. I can afford it, I'm just being a cheapskate. My girl always makes fun of me because I will get the cheap version of something, complain about it, and end up getting the better version. I really don't want that to happen with this Pi thing.
>>
>>2035202
hardware is fine, software is shit
>>
>>2034764
>you mean can't design a simple circuit for shit guy?
you mean a PCB?
>also nice fucking sharpie. add can't use rendered text to your resume of suck.
these are prototypes, I will use colors to distinguish them in the end
although thanks for the idea, I might consider adding text or other symbols
>>
>>2035203
Ah. I thiught the way it worked was you could load any Pi image and just run that, so wouldn't it be the same software? I'm not entirely sure because I've never played around with one, but that was my understanding. Like putting Windows on a Dell VS a HP.
>>
>>2035209
OS yes, firmwares no. pi clones have universally trash firmware support for basic hardware features like cameras and GPIO
>>
>>2035211
Ah shit, well that does suck then. Guess I'll have to go with the 4 B then. I was thinking about the 8Gb version just because it has the most RAM. I guess I could see how much memory it would actually take to run Klipper and OctoPrint but I'm guessing more memory is better like any computer. $75 isn't that expensive either.
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Got the speeddrive bmg+pancake stepper up and running. Nothing from the original ender is left now except the thermistor.
I might have messed up the bottom roller though because the hex eccentric nut spins almost freely now, I think I need a spring washer or something
>>
>>2034507
Should I return my QiDi X Plus and get another printer? Or is it worth sticking with? I bought it for $800.
>>
>>2035232
Why do you want to return it?
>>
Is SKR V1.4 a good board for ender 3, compatible with klipper and linear advance?
>>
>>2035216
What duct is that?
>>
>>2035216
My BMG and pancake is in the mail, can you share what configs you used for the setup?
What hotend you running?
Might be a good baseline for mine
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do gcode acceleration-settings override firmware accel limits? just discovered by change that the firmware only allows 500mm/s accels and I've been running calibration test with inconclusive results
>>2035242
yes and depends on the drivers, tmc2209 are nice
>>2035245
the herome5
>>
>>2035245
resin printed herome v5

>>2035247
The only config you need to tweak are esteps (start at 415 and calibrate from that, I got 424) and the extruder driver current (it will get hot as fuck at the stock current, lower it to 500 or something, don't remember). I'm running a microswiss all-metal hotend with brass nozzle. Retraction for PLA at 2mm/25mm/s
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>>2035260
Damm, I ordered a 1A stepper and I thought I wouldn't have to touch the current. I'm running 4.2.7 so I think I'll have to mess with the pot
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>>2035263
Yes an anon in a previous thread said
>Motor current should be <90% rms so if 1A is peak set the value at 900/1,414 =~640
Which is compatible with the stock ender3 firmware current, but the motor got boiling hot, I was worried it could warp the PLA direct drive support. That's the reason I got the bmg clone (3:1 gear ratio can be driven with less motor torque)
>>
>>2035264
I got my trianglelabs BMG waiting
>>
I just bought the ender6 as my first printer. I'm concerned because there isn't as much of a community and not as much Documentation on it yet. But it seems like almost the compromise between the 5 pro, and the 3 v2 I was looking for. Plus the promise of speed.
I'm trying to learn fusion 360 right now, but I need to focus on re-creating an easier part than doing this other bullshit thing I need to get more measurements on.
I wanna make it.
>>
When upgrading the X and Y stepper motors on an Ender 3 to a 0.9° step angle motor, is it also a good idea to upgrade the belts and pulleys? I'm guessing the stock pulleys don't come off easily. Are aluminum pulleys good or is it better to go with plastic ones?
>>
>>2035263
Just set mine to 1.0v and called it good personally
>>
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Pink bowser anon with blobbing from last thread, I got very good results using klippers linear extrusion, now on to more config
>>
>>2035242
>>2035250
Is there any reason I should buy the SKR 1.4 over the MKS Gen L if both sport the TMC 2209 if I don't plan on dual Z?
>>
>>2035287
>thing I need to get more measurements on
That's one of the things I like about parametric design.
>Guess at measurements
>Design part
>Replace guessed parameters with actual measurements when it's convienent
You never run into measurements you missed and have to go back and get, or end up with extra measurements you don't need
>>
>>2035308
Mks gen uses an atmega 2540

Its 20201, 8 bit is outdated an more hazzle than 32bit
>>
>>2035316
Holy fuck, I automatically assumed it was 32 bit.
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>>2035147
thats what i thought too
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I don't have a macro lens, sorry

the ears are pretty fragile, so I'd thicken them up but otherwise the model is fine
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>>2035335
slightly better pic
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>>2034551
It’s certainly the best value for someone who has genuinely no idea what they want out of a printer and is getting one to make little plastic dicks. It’s also a decent platform for upgrading and turning into whatever you want down the line because there’s just so much aftermarket stuff for them.
I’d recommend the V2, as it’s not that much more and the difference in performance from the control board is well worth it.
You will be able to print within two hours of opening the box, but it takes a lot of fucking around to dial it in. I’ve found that to be true of $1200 printers as well.
-guy who has made $5500 selling little plastic dicks on Etsy
>>
>>2034811
I’ve bought two straight from Creality so far. One shipped with a broken extruder arm and they sent me a replacement part they day I sent the email. No complaints.
>>
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>>2035335
>>2035349
I've been working on this ring all morning. What do you think? Can I print something like this?

>>2035151
I saved over the stl with this one sorry.
>>
>>2035495
> Can I print something like this?
Yes. The question is "should you" and IMHO you should do better.
>>
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New to modelling. Any advice?
>>
>>2035287
Fusion 360 is complicated. Most 3D modeling software is. Tinkercad is a bit easier but that means it's more limited.
>>
>>2035307
What are you running Klipper on?
>>
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>>2035543
I really like this frog I made but the file for it is on my other computer back at home.
>>
>>2035557
4.2.7 creality, no idea what drivers it uses but stock
>>
>>2034810
his total deviation is .1 which is a whole layer (or more) in any quality print, and if he's having problems actually generating a consistent mesh, he probably has a bigger fish to fry ya feel me
>>
>>2035495
How about you go be a nigger somewhere else? You shouldn't be so buttmad about someone asking for some input on making something and another people giving it, it's what the general should be about instead of just "why did my print fail" and creality/prusafags bitching back and forth
>>
>>2035594
Klipper doesn't actually run on the 3D printer though. So what did you install Klipper on?
>>
>>2034568
have you probed the plate underneath the glass bed ?
the numbers are always deviating by +/- 0.01-0.02 due to the vibrations and or probably temperature differences in the material just shoot for a rough estimate

the plate underneath your glass bed could be warped ( you culd measure it )
if it is not warped you know its the problem of the glass itself
if it is warped too it could be because of the material plate or your suspension could be warped
e.g. if you have two linear rails the right one could be screwed on lower at the top right end
or it could be warped


since it is a uneven pattern it has likely to do with the bed construction and or the y axis
if it was an issue from the lead screws you would have a even pattern ( given that the bed was a-okay ;-) ) same goes for the x axis since it is uneven on the y so
fingers crossed that its the glass plate
>>
>>2035596
Yeah I don't know what the hell is going on with it. What I did that worked was take the last point on the X axis that the probe could reach, say it was 212, then I used that to limit the mesh by 23 on all sides so the mesh area was square. I probed this area 5 times (5 probes per point throwing out the atypical probe and then took the average of those). Those results looked good, the meshes were pretty much the same in the topography view.
So last night, I decided that more points would be better, so I changed the limits to be only 2mm in from the edges and probed 15 points per axis (225 points total). It took ~1.75 hours! Then I tried G26. The mesh validation print was going down OK, but I stopped the print and started fucking with the Z offset for some reason. After that, none of my mesh print tests would stick.
My next idea was to make a very small mesh, maybe only 1x1 or 2x2 and try to get the Z probe offset figured out. Assuming that goes good, I'll reflash and try again.
I was using a combination of Marlin's and Duet's instructions to figure out the offset.
>home x, y, z
>move nozzle to bed until it grips paper
>set z to 0
>move z to 10
>move probe to same point nozzle was on
>deploy probe
>babystep z until probe tiggers
So I did that a few times.
One thing I realized was that the amount Marlin let's you move the probe at its smallest increment is 0.025mm. However, on the Z axis, if you take the steps/revolution (400 steps) and divide the amount moved per revolution (8mm) by the steps, you end up with 0.02mm. So I think I need to change the firmware so that the smallest move is 0.02mm instead of 0.025mm.
Does that make any sort of sense?
>>
>>2034632
look up cold pull with nylon. you can do it with just the petg but you have to be patient either way and actually let it cool and pull while it heats up, but it works.

the other similar problem I had with PLA2 at 215º which I don't have with PLA at 195 or PETG at 240º is that the heating just doesn't seem to get uniform and the stepper will skip during the preextrusion and sometimes the skirt. preheating the nozzle or canceling and restarting the print works. And only the PLA2.... anyway I doubt that's your issue as it's a preprint issue not an extrusion issue which you're clearly having.
>>
>have ender exter for ender 3 pro
>got dual z kit
>only the far side moves now and feed side doesn't
>take out the plug on the far side and then the feed side can move
What am I doing wrong, I have been tinkering with this think for a month now?
>>
>>2035604
I don't see you posting any blender files. Do you not have blender anon? Be the change you want to see instead of trying to be edgy, "nigger".
>>
>>2035644
inadequate power? How are they wired and how are they plugged into the control board?
>>
>>2035650
I used this wire to connect them because the other wire i have doesn't work
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQW9VFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_FHQK2P8W9NT6GP6RYW93?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
>>
>>2035650
I'm also in the states so I'm only getting 115 volts
>>
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>>2035650
This is the wire that came with the dual z, im also using a skr mini e3 board
>>
A vid for gonna-giant-printer-anon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhBdMpEGH0o
>>
>>2035646
I'm not the one trying to be edgy here, you're being an absolute shitter for no reason whatsoever. It's like mom's given you your allotted 4chan time for the week and you've thought "great, this is my opportunity to expiate all of my life's frustrations being being a little bitch on the internet".
>>
>>2035625
I haven't actually probed the bottom bed itself yet, that's a good idea. The glass I'm using is just mirror glass from Lowes. The hotend was cool but the heater was on for the bed at 60 for quite some time.
I haven't checked my X gantry or the Y carrier yet. I guess these numbers could be from one or both of those. I'll tear it down tonight and rebuild it, maybe it will make a difference, I dunno. Only one way to find out!
>>
>>2035652
I meant from the PSU/board not your source. Like if you hook a 1.5v battery up to 2 12v motors one might spin and the other may not. Unplug the one and it's just the other.

I'm honestly not clear what makes a stepper motor "tick", and it seems like this would be a known/common issue with dual z if the board is inadequate. Hopefully someone more EE will be able to help you, I'm way out of my depth. Good luck!
>>
>>2035073
Not the fag you responded to, but thank you, I tried blender for a little bit, and my autism start acting up. I saw people recommend freecad, and Im gonna give that a try.
>>
>>2035669
Thanks lad, I just want big print
I've thought about returning the dual z motor kit to swap out for simpler dual belt kit like this one
https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ender-3-dual-z-upgrade-kit/?share=Modified3d
The dual motor isn't gonna work at this rate so if another anon thinks this is a better idea let me know your thoughts
>>
>>2035616
Raspberry pi 4
>>
>>2035683
2 4 or 8Gb? Are you also running OctoPrint? If so what camera are you using (if you are using one)?
>>
>>2035238
>QiDi
Only because I feel like $800 might have room for some better printers or even cheaper ones. It isn’t a bad printer at all though.
>>
>>2035644
What board are you using? Depending on the board, you may need to have the two motors wired in series VS wired in parallel. So try whichever method you haven't yet, it might work. I don't think it will harm anything if it doesn't work.
>>
Why aren't you printing your own seed starters?
>>
>>2035689
I have an SKR mini e3 v1.2, not sure what other points I can plug the motors into
>>
>>2035693
>one of the few things that costs more to print than buying the actual thing
>doesn't decompose when planted

not EVERYTHING is better 3D printed anon.
>>
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Is there any printable mod to use the V6 + BMD direct drive for the Ender 3?
Kind of like a Direct Drive bracket + duct
>>
>>2034818
>>2034820
my ass. amaon sent me a broke dick CR10 when I ordered the CR10S. then told me lolno refunds. the heat block had a crack in it and the power supply fried the board.
>>
>>2035148
Look up voron, thank me later, there's also a printer called the sapphire which has a 300x300x350 build volume (not quite at big as the ender five plus, but close) that's core xy, can't really attest to it being good tho, but my creality ender 5 plus is trash out of the box, and from the reviews of the ender 6 it's an even worse deal, so you'll have to invest a 2-300 extra anyway to make em decent
>>
>>2035202
Just get the rpi zero, literally can't get much cheaper, as long as you dont run a webcam and octoprint through it it has more than enough horsepower for klipper
>>
>>2035724
>Just get the rpi zero, literally can't get much cheaper
Old shitty laptop you don't need anymore
>>
>>2035731
Or that, anything that runs Linux half way decently essentially
>>
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>TFW finally got klipper to properly print
don't know what I did different today or if its just due to updates but I'm happy, next I want to get arcwelder to postprocess
>>2035701
yes, I tried 2 so far but they weren't that great
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4072013
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4441537
>>
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>>2035553
I have some slight history with 3d modeling, maya and blender. Im kind of liking it, i just need to learn how to think in cad instead of modeler.

Trying to recreate pic related, but with a rod protruding from the center of the half-circle part.
>>
Thinking about upgrading my old board on my Ender 3 Pro for a 32 bit version with silent drivers.
Should I buy the new original version, or should I go for an aftermarket one like the SKR mini.
I have a bltouch btw.
>>
>>2035686
>QiDi X Plus
looks like a solid machine with some serious thought in the cloning process, THICK cast printbed, superior kinematic to i3 clones and enclosed. Also theres a gigantic community behind these makerbot clones.

I dont think on 800$ there will be room for improvement if you dont go full /diy/. If you feel like you've overspend thats fair but keep in mind every 100$ you shave off will be bought with drawbacks, like warped beds and ABL. with that bed you will never have to worry about stuff like that
>>
>>2035735
Do not buy the creality upgrade board, it's a ripoff, I bought an SKR, its a tad more depending on the model, but its worth the better tweaking potential, and community
>>
>>2035733
They weren't? I'm suprised they seem reasonably sound, what was wrong?
How do they compare to regular direct drive like speed drive?
>>
>>2035735
as i said before
the skr e3 has superior stepdrivers compared to the cucked creality board and more i/o
also cheaper when you buy the 1.2 version, which is plenty good, its only 28$ on banggod
>>
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>>2035695
For that board, try wiring them in series. It should work. The Y splitter is basically a parallel splitter.
>>
>>2035724
I want to run Klipper, OctoPrint, and a webcam so that won't work for me. I might try to make it work from my PC before I buy the Pi.
>>
>>2035685
8GB but not by choice, simply what was in stock.
OctoPrint, octopalse and klipper and works like a charm, I'm running a shitty Microsoft webcam from 2008.
>>
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guys is it possible to change filament mid print on an ender 3?
I think it gonna run out

Also any way to check material needed for a given set of z coords in prusa slicer?
>>
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I got my artillery sidewinder x1 today, and I'm trying to feed the filament through the sensor and it gets halfway through when I hear a click and a blue light comes on, but it won't come out any further. What gives?
>>
>>2035777
I know you can pause prints with the ender3, not sure about changing the filament between pause and unpause
>>
>>2035543
Pretty good, make the feathers and feet and I would print that in a heartbeat.
>>
>>2035787
try cutting the tip of the filament at an angle and rotating it slightly to get it through the hole
>>
>>2035799
That did the trick. Thanks anon
>>
>>2035696
It decomposes in 3 months.
>>
>>2035777
I think there's a vid on youtube on how to do that but maybe you could weld the end of one spool to the other with a lighter and sand it to a uniform thickness
>>
>>2035906
Welp I just paused the print, pulled the old out and put in the new.
I was really on the fence of just leaving it and hoping but I compared pics of the spool 24 hours ago to now and I think it would have just run out.

It seems to be fine still, idk what it could do really as the print is so large it's about 20min per layer
>>
>>2035543
General advice
>sculpting isn't as hard as everybody says it is
>blender is not as shit as everybody says it is
>lern2 topology flow
>(flat) ngons are not the devil incarnate
>tris are not sent down from heaven
>quads should be flat, no exceptions
>have fun while modeling; if it's not fun, you're probably not learning
>>
>>2035771
Not sure if this would be a solution or not but I dont have my wiring tools where I'm set up so would this be an alternative?
https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/dual-z-stepper-motor-adapter-w-cable/
>>
>>2035834
PLA only decomposes quickly in industrial composting facilities, otherwise it rots in the sun like any other plastic. Unless that's printed cardboard or paper, it's exactly the same as the plastic pots you see everywhere
>>
>>2035335
>>2035349
Awesome! I'm the guy from yesterday who put that blend together. Looks a little rough on the ears and forehead. Is sanding a typical step that you gotta do? Does the sphere slide off? How hard is it on there? Does the pin feel flimsy? Tell me anything about it that comes to mind because I still intend to print my own earrings at some point.
>>
>>2035771
The adapter you posted is basically the same as what you have right now.
This one on eBay should work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Z-Axis-Series-Adapter-for-3D-Printer-Double-Z-Motors-/202925007999
Or if you feel like complete DIY, these instructions should also work
https://www.instructables.com/Wiring-Your-Z-Stepper-Motors-in-Series/
A video on the process
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GCwdfTL2oYw
>>
>>2035915
This was meant for (You)
>>2035980
>>
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Anyone know how to do a top cover with colored transparent plastic cheap?

Something like this, but this one is at least $6 for one sheet, which is not practical. I'd figure a transparent coloured top cover would look sleek on my boxes.
>>
>>2035999
Here's a better picture of what I mean.

Freecad's 3D printing tools has a 50% transparent option, and you can choose color of individual items as well.
>>
>>2035999
is it like to store resin or something?
>>
>>2035999
>>2036004
you're trying to 3d-print a transparent object? not really super feasible. it is possible, but it requires a lot of post processing to get it clear and isn't really worth the time over just buying a sheet of acrylic. You can get larger sheets of clear plastic at home depot, then apply a colored film to the inside to save some money.
>>
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>>2036004
>>2036007
you can easily SLA print transparency though.
>>
>>2035981
Thanks
>>
>>2036011
>>2036007
Yeah, that's what I found. I think SLA is the way to go, to allow for screwholes, cutouts, and whatnot, but buying one of those printers will probably have to wait. They aren't cheap.

I guess until then, I'll have to order sheets of acrylic.

Maybe a silicone mold and resin would work, but it might be difficult to make it look professional.
>>
>>2036007
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmbAlTxLbg0
>>
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I printed this just earlier, pretty neat.
>>
>>2035733
Also, what configuration or calibration do you consider important for klipper?
I basically installed and printed straight away, only dialed in preassure advance
>>
>>2035744
the first one was horrible to install but good in it's first iteration, the current one dropped the volcano-support and I don't feel like investing time to change the files.
on the second one i got clogging and cooling issues and the bltouch-mointing is wonky
Both have the problem to have the motor hanging to the front. Now I'm using the speeddrive setup with the volcano hotend on a cr10-style cooler and get beautiful prints, could be because the screwed, short cooler is more rigid than the clamped v6
>>2036105
the standard calibration is all I did
today I'll go through my drawers and look for a sensor to do that harmony-frequency test or what it's called
>>
>>2036130
Any guide for standard calibration? All I found was temp tower and esteps
>>
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What do
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>>2036173
ignore it
>>
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>>2036173
This is what awaits you
>>
>>2036169
follow the teachingtech guide to also tune slicer flow, retraction etc and look up klipper input shaper after that
>>2036173
order a pei flexsheet from China so it arrives in 3 months when your bed hits EOL - or flip it and print on the non-coated glass
>>
>>2034637
very cool idea
>>
>>2035777
i do that all the time
you jus tneed to sit next to the printer and feed in the new filament by hand until it reaches the extruder gear and if you have a filament sensor not let it slip out
like when you take your two index fingers and point them at eachother without letting a gap in the middle
>>
>>2036004
make a mold and cast them with clear epoxy
>>
>>2035916
You could 3dprint a mold for seed starters and fill it with cardboard mashed in a blender with water. I think the cnc kitchen guy did something like that
>>
>>2036198
thanks anon
>>
>>2036284
Why nor just use an old egg carton? No need to waste plastic when you can just recycle things you'd otherwise throw away.
>>
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lads, what do I do with a 200x40x1mm sheet of steel?
I've can thinking about making some kitchen knives or so but still have plenty of them
>>
>>2036198
>klipper input shaper
Holy fucking shit I was not ready for that
>>
What is this? Oozing from the hotend or the fan pulling stinging in?
>>
>>2036494
Heat break and nozzle aren't butted up against each other, or bowden tube is loose. It's leaking hot plastic from somewhere.
>>
>>2036328
What alloy?
>>
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>>2036452
>test finished
>100mm/s and fucking 7000mm/s2
>didn't skip a beat, looks clean with minor ghosting
yeah its pretty cool
>>
>>2036544
Holy shit man
Is that a stock Ender 3?
>>
>>2036544
>7000mm/s2
For what? Travel speed or something?
>>
>>2036544
Did you just set acceleration in your slicer?
Because it's limited by the firmware too.
>>
>>2036537
it's a sheet of steel, so it's most likely to be cold rolled mild steel.
>>
>>2036553
>stock
No, it has a toolhead similar to this >>2035216 and is running klipper on a rpi4, the creality 1.1.5 board and the rest of the hardware is stock tho
>>2036558
>for what
its the standard input shaper test, starts at 1250mm/s2 and ramps up to 7k. for normal prints I'll try 1500mm/s2
>>2036562
firmware is set 7k accel/ decel, part of the test as well
>>
>>2034551
You ought to rather buy a Prusa mini
>>
>>2036544
How long did the whole thing take you? Like the printing and tuning for the input shaper?
>>
>>2036494
Changed tubing, how do I tighten break and nozzle?
>>
>>2036544
do you have a glass bed?

my y axis is around 1 kg and at 1000mm/S2 a 150mm/s travel move stalls out the axis in stealtchop
>>
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>>2036593
5min for gcode and reading the how to, print took and hour, another 5min to measure out the ghosting ripples and calculate frequency, another hour for the nice looking print
>>2036596
yes, stock creality glass bed. check if has lose belts and that the vref is 1V, from the factory most be came with 1,3V which leads to overheating steppers
>>
>>2036617
Can you post the intital testing print?
>>
Slow thread this weekend...
Well, I was doing some testing with the Z axis and I can confirm that your movements have to match your steps. So on the Ender 3 Pro, the Z stepper motor moves the axis 8mm in 400 steps (1 full revolution). If you divide 8 by 400, you get 0.02mm per step.
I set the smallest increment for my movement to 0.01 and it only moves on the even numbers, 0.02, 0.04, 0.06, etc.. If I try to move from 0.08mm to 0.10mm, nothing happens at 0.09mm.
So essentially this means that the smallest increment of movement of 0.025mm is wrong. Very wrong in fact. I'm going to leave mine on 0.01mm instead of 0.025mm and just have to remember that I can only do even numbered movements. I suppose I could change it to 0.02mm but with 0.01mm increments it gives the knob some wiggle room I guess.
>>
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I made a thing for used razor blades.
>>
>>2036734
???
for tossing them out safely? you can sharpen them on a pair of jeans pretty easily i haven't bought a new blade in years
>>
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What do you guys think of the bed leveling used on the BIQU Magician? It's a force sensative resistor that is mounted to the nozzle cold.
>>
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>>2036800
>>
>>2036800
>mounted cold
Going to be inaccurate because of that
>>
Should I reprint this? My BLTouch is supposed to mount here. It happened because I had multiple parts on the plate and I guess retraction wasn't tuned properly. One thing I was thinking I could try instead of reprinting would be a heat set thread insert.
>>
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>>2036831
Shitty thing.
>>
>>2036832
i would but it would probably work
>>
Other than using it for Klipper and OctoPrint, do you guys use your Raspberry Pis for anything else? I was thinking about using mine to control LED lighting on the printer. What are some other useful things I could do with it?
>>
>>2036734
Should make a craft-knife handle for them, with a guard across one blade and some sort of clamping method through the middle hole. So you can easily and safely use them as craft knives. Fuck xacto blades, they go blunt way fast.

>>2036780
Huh? I gotta look into that.
>>
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>>2036884
Not that anon but I did do something like that, messing with nut sockets. Too lazy to dig up the bolts, wrench, and blades to put it together.

This is the v2 since the v1 was a basically a leaf shaped thumb sized grip and I somehow managed to turn the wrench, spin the whole thing, and almost take my finger tip off. Damn thing is still healing.
>>
>>2036884
it works great and you can do it with any type safety razor or disposable
i had to replace my razor once in the last 5 years but only because i went to visit my mom and my retarded stepbrother shaved his balls with my razor
>>
I got my Ender 3 Pro a few weeks ago and have had a really great time with it so far. Money wasn't really a concern so I am sure I could have gotten a much fancier printer, but for my first one I think I made a great choice. The experience of upgrading it and seeing their effects has been just as fun as actually printing shit.
Lately I have been using a PEI coated spring steel sheet as my build surface. Though I only have the stock surface to compare to, I am really pleased with how it has been doing. It does make me somewhat curious as to why everyone suggests glass beds all the time when these are around. I've only printed in PLA though. Does PEI not work well with other types of materials? I would love some input on this topic, as I would eventually like to try some other filaments out.
I haven't really done any tuning yet. I had calibrated my extruders steps/mm, but then I updated my firmware when I installed a BLTouch and haven't done it again since. Besides that, what are some other things I can tune on the printer to get better, more accurate prints? Eventually I know I need to calibrate my steps/mm for my 3 axes, but I need to get a more accurate set of calipers to do that I think.
Also, I haven't seen a ton of discussion on filament manufacturers. All I have used so far is eSun's PLA+ and it seems to do pretty well. Is there better stuff I could be buying? Are there any brands to avoid?
>>
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>>2036892
Yeah that's why I'd put the whole blade in a shroud, with a cover over the top blade, and probably a ridge in the central slot. There are probably some decent boltless fixing methods to try, like something with a cam, or maybe just a swing-together clamshell that includes the handle; that way there's no chance of it coming apart while you're holding it. Add a stiff o-ring for security.

Like this thing I spent a bit too long doing
my pizzas cold now
>>
>>2036916
Isn't the PEI sheet textured? Glass isn't, so you get a smooth finish on the bottom of the print (or top, depending on how you print is orientated). Glass does not work with PETG as the PETG actually bonds to the glass. I think a lot of people use glass because of how flat it is.
You can use this guide to tune your printer: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html it's pretty good. Whenever you do an upgrade like new stepper motor or hotend you should recalibrate it.
For better accuracy, you could upgrade the X and Y stepper motors to one's that have a 0.9 degree step. This is twice as many steps per revolution as the stock motors, so 400 instead of 200. Beyond that, if you upgrade the motherboard and get better drivers, you can increase the microstepping which would give you more accurate prints. But think about the accuracy for a moment. A single step with the 0.9 degree is 0.02mm. That's fucking tiny!
>>
Say I had a 2D shape like an equilateral triangle where the base of it was along the X axis and the tip of it was on the Y axis. How could I spin that object to create a 3D shape? What program could I use to do that?
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>>2036943
any CAD software with a "revolve" tool, which is basically all of them
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>>2036917
Closeup of folding part.
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>>2036944
Sweet, that's what I needed to know. Thanks anon.
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>>2036943
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>>2036780
>sharpen them on a pair of jeans
>.t
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>>2036620
The initial print didn't finish, lost steps in y
apparently fixed it by setting vref to 1V
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>>2036960
Probably hard to model a solar wheel in OpenSCAD...
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>>2035777
Only way I could think of is cutting the model at the desired z and re-slice/recalculate needed filament. Then Ctrl-Z.
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Is a 128Gb microSD card too big for using on a Raspberry Pi 4 with Klipper and OctoPrint?
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>>2037019
No, but you'll have tons of free space you'll never fill
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DId E-Steps and slicer flow calibration, walls measured .045 instead of .40, reduced flowrate to 88% now walls measure 0.32 and there's underextrusion all over the place, what gives?
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>>2037045
do it again retard. you overshot.
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>>2037034
Is it a stupid idea to instead use something like a 128Gb NVMe drive connected via USB3? Will it be noticeably faster than using a microSD card? I think the microSD card can only go like 50Mbps and the USB3 is much faster than that.
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>>2037045
What did you Esteps end up being? Where you doing it through the hotend or into the air? For me, I found that some of TeachingTech's files didn't give me good tests so I ended up slicing my own. You can use the calibration cube model and go with 0% infill and 0 top layers to get a similar print for the flow test. Some people recommend doing the Esteps calibration 3 or 4 times in a row. One thing too, you should round to the nearest whole number on that to avoid rounding errors. Your stepper can't really do 97.28 steps, so just go for 97.
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>>2037072
No, it's not bottlenecked by the storage but by network and serial communication. All a faster disk will do is let it boot faster.

Also SD Cards that can do 170MB/s are cheap.
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>>2037034
Hey at least you get to make as many timelapses as you like
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>>2037085
How big does those files get anyways? Like for a 12 hour print? I m kw there is a way to automatically upload it to Dropbox but I probably won't do that.
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I've tried printing this part twice, and it fucked up twice in the exact same spot toward the end of the print. Any ideas why?
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>>2036917
>>2036948
It doesn't need to be so thick and the gate doesn't have to be the whole handle, you could go just longer than the blade and add a screw. actually that extreme thickness is bad because you cannot see the blade at the work. You could move the joint behind the blade to further clean up the visibility... something like this.

Good concept though, I know you're just throwing out an example for the other anon. Still I've always thought we should have a thread design theme, like one thread it's a pip box and anons design a box and riff on each other's design, next thread it's a razor blade handle, pen cup etc.
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>>2037141
the last good print plane is being deflected. it might be in g-code, might be a factor of leverage at that point, so it' seither just leveratging or flexing instead of squishing the extrusion. regardless a different orientation or support under the arch should help.
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>>2037149
I let it put a support under that registration hole so probs gcode then

i've never seen something like that before though
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>>2037158
yeah I'd either orient it down on the front left edge or fill that box with a pop out manually.
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>>2037146
That does sound like a great idea for a thread. Maybe we could get some mechanical guys in here too who can lecture about stress risers and torsional strength and what.

You just designed that yourself? With what program?
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>>2036931
>Isn't the PEI sheet textured?
Not really. It's far smoother than the stock build surface. Most of my prints since installing it have had extremely an extremely smooth surface on the bottom; smoother than the sides at least.
I'm still a little fuzzy on how these stepper motors work, but I'll get there eventually. I would assume I would probably need custom firmware to utilize better steppers, right? Or even a different mainboard? Maybe that's something I will look into more down the road.
In the near future, I would like to try out some of those neat 'exotic' PLAs like the stuff that looks like wood, or glow in the dark PLA. I've heard that you need a different nozzle since those filaments are somewhat abrasive. Is a nozzle really all I'd need, or should I look into replacing some other stuff in order to print abrasive filaments?
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>>2037226
For firmware, you can just use Marlin like when you added your BLTouch. If you switch out the motor, you just have to change a few lines of code. You don't even have to do it through Marlin either, you could do it via GCode commands from Pronterface or even just through the LCD screen. I like messing with the firmware so I'd do it through Marlin.
You don't have to upgrade anything other than the stepper motors to get better resolution. But if you upgrade the drivers (chips on the motherboard) then you can take advantage of different and better features, like increased microstepping or certain movement improvements. The drivers on the stock Ender 3 board aren't easily changed but I've seen some people do it online. It's way easier to just buy a new main board and plug the drivers in. When the drivers get upgraded (or the motherboard) you absolutely have to upgrade your firmware.
Exotic filaments are fun. I've been using a lot of glow-in-the-dark filament. You do not necessarily need a better nozzle but it is a good idea. Nozzles are considered consumable, at least the brass ones are. To print filled filaments, you really should use at least a 0.6mm diameter nozzle to help prevent clogs. It's not strictly necessary but it's a good idea. I think the nozzle is all you really need. I upgraded my hotend to an all-metal V6 clone. I got it from Gulfcoast Robotics. I think it was less than $20 compared to the real deal which is like $70 I think. I also upgraded the heatbreak to a titanium one to help prevent clogs.
You should get a cheap pack of brass nozzles to try out the different diameters. I really like the 0.6mm and I am tempted to go bigger. Print times are way reduced even if the prints look a bit chunky. You can go about 75% of your nozzle diameter for your layer height and line width so on the 0.6mm nozzle I'm doing 0.4mm for both. Here is something I printed and, just my luck, it fucked up at the end. >>2036832
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>>2036962
That happens from not shaving with the grain of your hair, not from a dull blade.
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>>2035787
whats it like so far? im stuck between getting either it or the cr10v3
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>>2037273
PETG is easier than ABS, just crank up the heat and use minimal cooling (and live with the stringing). PLA-CF is borderling useless, any of the nylon variants are much better with CF nylon being just about the best filament you can buy nowadays. Needs a heated chamber though if you want to print halfway decent.
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>>2037273
>never heard of Alloy 910
>google it
>"the combined effort of chemical companies, extrusion manufactures and Taulman 3D to specifically develop a single material"
But what the fuck IS it. An alloy, sure, but what's it alloyed OF?
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>>2037287
It's not an alloy.
http://youraccount.70.ekmpowershop.net/ekmps/shops/billyboyclyde/resources/Other/alloy-910-msds.compressed.pdf
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>>2037285
They were all cheap, especially the short strand PLA CF, so I'll give it a try eventually. Yes I've had issues stringing, but realized that 100% of the problems I was having was not a slow enough first layer. I don't know why I didn't realize earlier. My retraction, temp tower, and calibration cube all came out fantastic, eryone PLA+ ender 3 microswiss direct drive, 235/70, but my first layer was either not sticking, partially sticking, or sticking just enough then coming loose later on through the print. Seem to have it now.
I have a good enclosure, how hot are we talking for NylonCF? With the other printers in there it gets pretty spicy, but are we talking constant and controlled higher temp?
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>>2037287
>>2037290
The main reason I wanted to give it a go was because of it's high temperature resistance, apparently once printed it has a melt point of like 210c. Handing for what I'm working on.
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>>2037291
The company I worked at made CF Nylon, our recommendation was 80 degrees science, preferably 100. Most printers can't handle that though, just try your best.
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>>2037295
Printed with or produced? I'd like to hear more.
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>>2037302
Produced. I'm still under NDA.
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>>2037306
I doubt anyone will go after you for talking on a Mongolian Gurkha Knitting Forum.
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What resin printer should I buy under 200$? Theres too many options that all seem basically the same so it's really hard to tell whats better.
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>>2037295
>80 degrees science, preferably 100
In either Kelvin or Planck, that would be pretty cold.
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>>2037322
He probably meant rankine, it's 44.4 repeating degrees.
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>>2037306
wouldnt want to talk any secrets on an anonymous 3d basket printing forum now would ya
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>>2037312
>>2037329
Well, I kinda listed /3DPG/ as a source for my graduation thesis, so I bet they're monitoring this thread.
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>>2037322
There are no degrees kelvin
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Any PLA brand-recommendations?
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>>2034507
i need a fan duct for my cr10s pro. couldnt find in thingiverse, also a noob. found a way from /b/->/pol/->/biz/.... you give me a decent amount pleasure, the other are poison...
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>>2037332
surely your thesis isnt under nda though right?
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>>2037345
What kind of fan duct? Heat sink cooling fan duct or part cooling fan duct? What type of fan, axial or blower? What size of fan? What type of hot end? You aren't giving us enough info to work with...
>>
so is the elegoo Neptune worth trying to get?
or should i just get an ender 3 pro?
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>>2037191
Freehand. It's a technical 2D vector program Adobe bought and killed many many years ago.
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Have any of you ever tried this UFO box thing?
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>>2037355
ok anon, need this part bacause the original is melting and scratching my print, made some pics maybe you can give me advice...
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>>2037355
>>2037382
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338694
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>>2037372
for $15 you can get like 30 PLA or ABS samples including glow in the dark. so they take 4 of those, make them too short to print anything useful, and throw in a few nickles of hardware and a project from thingiverse? Sounds like fucking overpriced bullshit for someone who can't think of anything to do with their printer. Oooh but you get entered into a lottery to maybe win one tool worth $7 instead of the usual tripe. The only thing even resembling a 3D print on their website is a stupid hex box that isn't even a nice design.

Seems like a deal anon, you should totally subscribe.
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>>2037386
B-but... Ayyliens...
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>>2037385
bless you, will try out, thx
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>>2037391
send me a mere $25 a month anon and I'll send you one cool alien thing to print, a certificate of authenticity and a picture of some chicks tits.
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>>2037392
>tfw you realize egyptians were gay all along
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>>2037332
>/3DPG/ as a source for my graduation thesis
that cant be real
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>>2037332
lmao you're fucked if they click on /pol/
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>>2037414
>lmao you're fucked if they click on >>>/pol/
FTFY
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>>2037404
Sign my ayy-ss up!
>>
Hey guys, I'm looking to make an easy enclosure for my prusa mk2s.
- Needs to be collapsible (no storage space)
- The room it will be in is colder than the rest of my apartment, maybe gets down to 60f in the winter
- I mostly print PLA, rarely PETG

Do you think a PVC pipe cube wrapped in plastic wrap would do it? The PVC would easily come together/apart, and I'm thinking I could make a slip cover out of a plastic shower curtain. Do you think this alone would get the temperature from ambient ~60f to ~80f?
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>>2037433
It's probably not necessary. I print in 50º unfinished basement and the only reason I use auxillary heat on PETG is my little bed only gets to 50º. I don't do anything for PLA.

PVC and saran wrap should be good though, just make it fit over so you can lift off and put back- light easy, no door, some visibility to stop spaghetti.
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>>2037433
You can get a 4ft x 25ft roll of this stuff at a home improvement store for around $50 (they have a 2ft x 25ft too). Easy to work with, just cut it how you need it. Folds up nicely if you want. It also helps soundproof. I haven't used it for an enclosure but I bet it would work nicely. It would work a hell of a lot better than a plastic slip. Only downside would be that you couldn't see what's going on inside the enclosure.
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>>2037442
That stuff is fairly stable on it's own. You could literally make a "tin can" shape cylinder that would fit over your enclosure. Cap it with another piece, add some painters tape (cheaper than aluminum, works just fine on reflectix) and you've got a can that weighs about 10oz you can slide over your printer. No structure support needed provided you don't smash the shit so it doesn't stand up. It's easy to work will too, you can cut a panel and replace with taped on saran wrap for your viewport. I actually have a roll to replace the stuff in my RV (once it's smashed enough it won't hold itself up in the windows but that took about two years of active use) I might build an enclosure for my printer out of it tomorrow.
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Pretty scared to print this and have the supports stick to the model.
What do?
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>>2037433
>I mostly print PLA
Then don't make an enclosure, it will not help you in any way.
Increase bed temperature to 70 C and clean it with alcohol and you'll have no issues with adhesion.
>>
Parametric design is great, but damn if it isn't making me think differently.
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>>2035939
Sanding is part of the process because you need to support the model as it prints, an then when you're done the supports have to be snipped off, which leaves a mark. So you can see here, the monkey was supports on top of his head and under his ears, so that's where the marks are. The damage to the ears can be reduced by beefing them up, they're so thin they crumbled a little when cutting off the support. The damage so the top of the head was more than it should have been because I was using a clear resin, you get resin sitting on top of the model as it it prints and then curing due to the light passing through the already-cured resin, so instead of a little mark it was more of a wide pad, if you used an opaque resin it would be a lot less

The sphere doesn't slide off, it's a bit tricky to do print-in-place stuff like that, a lot depends on the orientation wrt the build plate. If you wanted to go down that road I'd recommend just printing the sphere as a separate piece. The pin actually feels fine, but I'd still recommend going with a stainless steel one.
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>>2037463
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>>2037437
>>2037461
Thing is a recent print curled up from the bed - I assumed it was because the cold air caused the print to contract on top. It was at like 70% infill though, could that cause curling?
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>>2035999
>>2036004
Is it just flat with holes in the right places? Why not get some plexi lasercut? 3D printing is not always the solution
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>>2037473
>Why not get some plexi lasercut? 3D printing is not always the solution
NTA but not everybody has access to a 3D printer AND a laser cutter.
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>>2037478
i dont even understand why this has to be lasercut
nothing you cant /diy/ with a saw file and drill.
Most webshops will accept a cutlist for like 50ct per part over the raw material price, so scratch the saw
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>>2037472
No, you have shit bed adhesion because the surface is not clean or you're not printing on a sufficiently sticky surface.
I print my PLA with the bed at 60C and often times I struggle to remove the part from the bed because it sticks that well.
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>>2037460
Your Support Distsnce is pretty close. Maybe increase that to 0.3mm. You could always cut the model and just print the gun looking thing and see if it works. Maybe download the Custom Supports plug in and be more conservative with the placement than the default "everywhere" setting.
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>>2037321
Don't accept anything less than a monochrome screen with at least 2k resolution
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>>2037342
Fusion, Paramount, RepRapper, Geeetech, Gizmo Dorks, 3D Solutech, IC3d, Ziro, and AMZ3D
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>>2037496
Custom supports plugin? You're a life saver
I actually tried to cut the model but I don't think cura has that support anymore, my other option was printing 2 copies and have the bed cut them in half
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>>2037342
The stupid expensive Polaroid stuff is on clearance for stupid cheap at brick and mortar stores right now.
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>>2037335
based

>>2037368
>a technical 2D vector program
I use QCAD. It's surprisingly decent, though the free version is a bit gimped. It's open source, so presumably someone can just compile a version without the "you must delete these files in order to use it for free".

Also re: a "design thread", there's actually a board dedicated to 3D modelling, that nobody uses. If 3DPG anons make a thread over there, the whole board will double in traffic. Not sure if they'd want that or not, but it would still be fun.
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>>2037702
i feel like that would split our traffic here kind of like how hiroshimoot keeps making ever more specific boards
>>
New Thread
>>2037746
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>>2037702
>a board dedicated to 3D modelling, that nobody uses
For good reason, it's full of elitists who think they're hot shit while making Babby's First Tutorial Model and anybody serious about modeling is sick of it by now



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