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File: narrow pallet jack.jpg (154 KB, 2000x2000)
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Thread hymn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MebuKbDuVew

Last thread: >>1997077

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists
>Edge precision
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-kgF0sJFno

N.e.w.
>Setting up a grindall spindex on a surface grinder
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9rcyIRTfz0
>Precision ground toolroom stones
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVLXsq7pi9Y
>narrow pallet jacks, internal barcode work order system and more
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooKIIwbkw1E
>>
Should I buy a lathe like this? I'm buying my first lathe
>>
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>>2015423
I would. Study on home machinist forums on how to inspect used machine tools. Old industrial lathes produced (for example) all the classic firearms. The bigger your lathe the better if you have room. Read about VFDs etc on Practical Machinist forums as you do not need three phase power.
Also study how to move lathes safely. I bolt heavy channel to the base with bolted on industrial casters when I move them so the CANNOT TIP which is critical as their CG is so high. Picrel is a tool and cutter grinder we moved for my bro with that style setup. Note it permits winching onto a car trailer and doesn't require a forklift or any special handling equipment. You can roll right into your shop. Beats paying a rigger which can save you hundreds of dollars. You can buy the steel locally. Next one I fab will use scaffolding casters which have brakes and can be pinned in place or left to swivel. They're only about 100 bucks a set and if you're going to have a home machine shop mobility makes life much easier. We've moved several lathes, mills and other tools this way. Also google
"moving a Bridgeport" for various useful ideas. Machinery movement is usually overlooked and many machine tools damaged because bubba thinks he knows better.
>>
>>2015489
more pics of your setup?
>>
>>2015489
It appears to have a big weld on the slide and they're asking 900€ for it. I've had an offer for a newer lathe (from the 80s I think) also for 900 euros but it too had a welded slide and the rack and pinion were not moving freely so I passed it on but I might reconsider. Lathes like that go for double and more of that price so it could be worth repairing it
I'm not in the US and three phase power is not a problem, we have it everywhere. Moving the machine is a great concern for me but I have a friend who has a big lathe, mill, shaper and other machines who would help me with it
>>
>>2015595
Repairs can be a bitch. Buy what you can use immediately. Bring friend to help inspect and turn a test bar etc. He'll know what I mean.
>>
>>2015586
My pics w. detailed instructions:
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49394

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49394
>>
>>2015627
Doh.

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49394
>>
>>2015629
WTF? Pasting working strangely today.

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43779
>>
>>2015423
Yea prolly
>>
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Would anybody wanna following along in pictures for boring out lathe jaw blanks with no boring jig? Maybe next time I have to do this I'll document everything
>>
>>2015489
My shop bought a new to us CNC lathe recently. I prepped the old ones for shipping by sticking a 1.5in steel bar into a boring bar holder in the turret, jogging to the centerline of the machine and then clamping the chuck into the steel bar. You can imagine how horrifying a sight this was, the amount that could go wrong if some retard that didn't know what they were doing got their hands on the contriller was unending. Is this the correct way to do this? I was also told I could use ratchet straps

The new lathe came with a wood 2x4 laid down in the chip conveyor which I assume came dislodged from supporting the turret during the 15 hr drive. In transit, the turret got knocked out of place somehow and was between two tool positions. It was crashed. Had to call a service tech in to realign it. Cost us a thousand bucks because some retard was a lazy faggot
>>
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I did it but I fucked up and literally everything went wrong
>spend an hour trying to dial in the od but can never get it closer than like .002
>can't use my brass live center condom because apparently it's some angle other than 60 degrees
>turn my indicator sideways and just dial in the end face
>tool chatters and makes shit surface finish when turning down od
>somehow fuck up my thread and make w peaks even though I was waiting for the same number every time
>when I remove the center to check my threads it doesn't repeat when I put it back in so I have to pick up the thread every time
>try to put steady rest on my threads so I can recut the crown but there's so much runout I'm afraid to fuck it up even more
>when I take the tape off some paint comes off in a place that wasn't even clamped
fuck everything
>>
>>2015753
wood boards is probably the right way to do it anon
>>
>>2015897
so, did it turn out okay?
>>
>>2015903
no but it will never get gauged and it's shooting a .204 bullet through a .330 hole so there's little chance of it exploding and the customer will probably attribute any point of impact change to the silencer.
>>
>>2015921
Rework is terrifying. Imagine scrapping someone's engine block of a vehicle that has not been in production since the 80s. I am sweating just thinking about it
>>
>>2015897
so if your thread was offset you probably switched gears or the part slipped in the chuck a little

thread slower next time?
>>
>>2015953
I was already going at only 63 rpm because I'm afraid of crashing my tool into the shoulder. I didn't change gears or anything either. I think there's backlash in the half nut or something.
>>
>>2015983
what I meant was less depth of cut
>>
>>2015989
doc was .005, .005, .004, .003, .003, .002, .002, .0015, .0015. I'm sure it must have happened on the 3rd pass because I was pleased at the shiny chips it was cutting but then suddenly there was a nasty looking one.
>>
>>2016039
does the lathe have a metric lead screw and you were cutting a standard thread?
>>
>>2016041
no I had to cut a metric thread with it once and it was fucked up until I realized I had to keep the half nut engaged the whole time
>>
>>2016075
oh ok
>>
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I love these loli pallet jacks.
>>
I'm about to go to an interview for a full-time manual machining job. Any advice? I am bringing my resume and a box of parts I have taken from drawing to reality using various means. Is this a good plan or should I leave the box at home
>>
I just switched to carbide lathe tools but I’m getting an awful squealing noise with any cuts I make. I’m cutting cold rolled mild steel, and running ~20% faster rpm than I do with HSS tools. Feel free to call me an idiot, but what am I doing wrong?
>>
>>2016532
What is the shape of the tool?
>>
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>>2016296
if you bring the box if:
>The box is small and the parts are good quality
>Bring print outs of the designs you made too,

Worse case they don't care, best case they see you know CAD/Drafting and get to see the finished product.

Might help distract if you stammer thru the interview.
>>
>>2016560
Left it in the car. I'm going to clean the parts and take high quality well lit pics to include in my resume for next time.

Place was nice but the guy was a literal used car salesman. Offered me a dollar less an hour than I make now. Said no, he called me later offering me 50 cents less than I make now. Then tried to bullshit small talk me and pressure me into saying yes by repeating "so do I have you?" Over and over between fake chit chat. Kept saying "come on now this is 20 dollars less a week we are talking about" well if it's such a small number why not just give it to me? Said I'd think about it, gonna call and tell him no. That is no way to begin a relationship with a new employer. Had he offered me 10 cents an hour more than what I make now (18.50/hr) I would have taken the job.
>>
>>2016532
In my experience poverty chinese carbide turning sets from Amazon are extremely dull straight from the factory. Id touch em up on a silicon wheel, add some relief. You're probably dragging at some point along the tool
>>
hmmm Hardinge conquest 42 in unknown condition for $2750 in Indiana
>>
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I spent most of today making this loading gate mostly with hand tools. would have gone a lot faster if I had a surface grinder. I can't figure out how to dish out the middle though. is there a way to do it other than the right size ball nose endmill or spending a week trying to sand it? top is the "original" part which was obviously a replacement someone made previously but wasn't right. middle is a reproduction I bought but ended up being wrong in every dimension.

>>2016296
>full-time manual machining job
these exist? what's the position?
>>
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here's the one I made in the gun. I still have to make the spring but I'm waiting on parts for the acetylene torch so I can heat treat it.
>>
>>2016708
something like that looks basically hand-made I doubt I could even 3d model it good enough to profile it out of a solid block.

I would say get it close and then finish it somehow with hand or power tools?
>>
>>2016710
hmm actually a good cnc 3d profiling operation would get most of that material out of the way.

someone with a tormach and fusion360 would be great.

but anyway, yeah I would probably just rough it out with ball endmills, traveling less far each pass to sort of make the curved end maybe
>>
>>2016717
the gun was made from 1884 to 1904 so the orignal part probably was at least partly hand made. I'm assuming it broke at some point and someone made the one in the picture as a replacement, but changed the design and forgot to heat treat it so it would spring. it's supposed to have that oval shaped dent in it like the reproduction but I don't know of a good way to make it.
>>
>>2016725
I bet you could 3d model it if you tried hard enough.
>>
>>2016730
I could draw it easily in cad if I had the software but it wouldn't do me any good since I have no cnc.
>>
>>2016731
damn, sucks
An old fadal or something is probably accurate enough to make something that old. Then you would have a 3d model of a part that is basically unobtanium that might turn into a giant collection of unobtanium parts. And that collection might end up valuable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27LAxy190yQ
>>
Anyone know a good supplier for stuff like inconel and titanium? hopefully a web store like alro has instead of a lengthy quoting process.
>>
>>2016810
eh I guess these will have to do
https://www.nyccnc.com/guide-buying-aluminum-steel-raw-materials/


Reliable Sources:

McMaster-Carr: Generally have low shipping and handling, with fast shipping speeds and a strong inventory
Onlinemetals, Speedy Metals: Beware of shipping and handling
Alro, Yarde: Great for large orders (truck delivery) or small orders (UPS delivery); will-call
Hudson Tool Steel: Carries small pieces of tool steel
>>
>>2016811
Damn, onlinemetals has the same brass order I got from alro for around $1500 not even including shipping. Around $1000 from alro.

Alro really is pretty amazing sometimes.

>$2,235 on speedymetals

Alro steel is like a pro-tip.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjQf6ISFlSg
>>
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holy thread gauges batman

probably like 65 lbs of thread gauges
>>
>>2017084
damn, I think I should buy more of them kind of.
>>
>>2016810
Unironically scrap yards.
>>
>>2017213
What brand of hex bits should I buy?
The 1/4" hex shank, hex bits for torque wrench.
Also, for small sizes, like 8-32, would a t handle torque wrench ( made for working on bicycles) be good, so I don't have to use a long wrench
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjl5OVeXCGM
>>
>>2016075
>until I realized I had to keep the half nut engaged the whole time
lmao what?
you engage it at the same time when you have it running, but you definately don't need to always keep it engaged. what are you talking about?
>>2016598
ignore handy-andy's post, as if it's acutally CVD tooling that's just going to grind off any carbide that might be left still
>>2015423
belts can be a pain in the ass. get a gearbox lathe.
>>
>>2017674
the thread dial didn't work like cutting inch threads
>>
>>2017674
>you engage it at the same time when you have it running, but you definately don't need to always keep it engaged. what are you talking about?

For Metric threads on an imperial leadscrew, you cannot use the thread dial. You must keep the half-nut engaged and run the lathe in reverse to back the saddle up before starting another pass.
Its an old school technique.
>>
fuck I spent like 2 hours trying to remove a roll pin from a blind hole. I broke 2 drill bits and fucked up and drilled through the part.
>>
>>2017674
>ignore handy-andy's post, as if it's acutally CVD tooling that's just going to grind off any carbide that might be left still
I have read this a few times and don't get what you mean. Did you reply to the right person?
>>
>>2017767
Located dead center and plunge it out with carbide endmill
>>
>>2017769
I was being retarded and trying to do it with a hand drill because it's a stamped sheet metal part with the pin through a boss at an angle
>>
>>2018108
workholding workholding workholding

clamp to 1-2-3 blocks maybe?
>>
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Im too stupid to understand roughing cycles. I can only program because I write it how I'd do it manually. I need to make a bunch of stainless steel balls. How do i program this? I can't fucking understand what the shitty terribad haas manual is trying to tell me, and they never explain their example programs. This picture is before parting off. I'm going to finish the back with a file in a manual lathe. The finished part will be a perfectly round stainless steel ball. Please help me understand how a roughing cycle works. All my programs are miles amd miles long because I have to write out every single pass. I have also never successfully used an R code. All my previous radiuses have been I, j, and k. The only issue with using these is I have absolutely no fucking idea where my radius ends in Z. Alsi there is the issue that the part will need roughing, doing in 1 pass is clearly impossible as fuck. Is there a youtube video that explains this to retards or am I just fucked? I'm getting mad as fuck at this point I'm about to just grind a forming tool and throw it in the cnc lathe to form a radius then flip op. Fuck this
>>
>>2018346
https://youtu.be/XqEWdLbOeZQ?t=129

I really don't know manual programming at all, but that might help.

Also, if you know enough to use variables on the control to store numbers, you can just make a loop that will increment X and Z a certain amount every iteration of the loop to make like a perfect circle that ends at values you specify.
>>
>>2018354

Research: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/fanuc-o-m-macro-looping-338551/


(SET VARIABLES HERE)
#1 = 0.0 (Z Start Level)
#2 = -5.0 (Z Cut In Amount)
#3 = -50.0 (Full Depth Z Coordinate)
G00 X0.0 Y0.0
G01 Z1.0 F_ _
G01 X10.0
(WHILE - DO Loop Example)
WHILE [#1 GT #3] DO1
#1 = #1 + #2
IF[#1 LT #3]TH #1=#3 (Ensure No Z Over-cut)
G03 I-10.0 Z#1 F_ _ (HELICAL INTERPOLATION MOVE)
END1
G03 I-10.0 (CLEAN BOTTOM OF HOLE
G01 X0.0
G00 Z1.0

The Local Variables #1,#2 and #3 and the logic of the above program snippet gives you the flexibility of being able to change the DOC without having to worry about whether or not its exactly divisible into the total cut-in amount.
>>
>>2018346
it's ez. use g71 to make it cut the rough contour and then g71 with the same lines for the finish pass. start with the tool out in space when you call the g71 line. then since the contour goes in and out you have to put both x and z in the first line of your tool path. to find the end point of your arc you have to use geometry. you draw a triangle and you know the hypotenuse is the radius of the ball and the short leg is half of the stub diameter. I forget which formula you use just probably put it in cad.
>>
>>2018525
sorry that should be g70 for the finish line
>>
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This is a used thread gauge I picked up, I am curious as to why it has the crests of the thread truncated, and why it has a "GO" side and a "LO" side instead of "no-go". Is this some kind of length gauge or is there a funky thread spec that specifies it's "good" if the "LO" gauge doesn't slip out of the hole? Because the LO gauge side is smaller than the GO gauge.
>>
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>>2018689
>>
>>2018689
>>2018690
got my answer, it's a "SET" gauge for setting ring gauges
>>
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>>2015219
>tramming the head on my mill
>only 2 thou in the Y left to fix
>ok ez
>spend 20 minutes trying to fix it
>2 thou stays no matter what
>still cant figure out why
am i retarded?
>>
>>2018880
it's probably springing back when you tighten it up or something
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeIsuCpJNnU
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LMGEBAVb5M

rego-fix stuff is pretty nice it looks like
>>
20/60

breaktime
>>
>>2018990
best there is
>>
>>2018880
are you doing a y back and forth or rotational sweep in the spindle?, ways could be fucked, or tighten down the ways before you do it
>>
>>2019354
rotational sweep in the spindle. ill make sure the ways are tightened down next time. see if it makes a difference. mabye the indicator is having trouble because it doesnt have contact through the whole sweep as it goes over the table slots?
>>
>>2017768
the post I was quoting talked about "touching up" carbide tooling, even if it's cheap stuff, Chemical Vapour Deposition tooling (CVD) will be ruined by using it on a grinder. You will strip the carbide layer right off, it might cut better with a sharper face, but you might as well use HSS at that point.
>>
>>2017768
as a general rule, you don't "touch up" carbide tooling, it's usually brazed on a tip, or it's insert tooling, which can usually be indexed, or replaced. you can end up chipping the tool, or cracking it all the way through. ruining the insert.
>>
Are there good resources for finding used machines? been stalking faceberg and craigslist and rarely see machines there.
Also was there ever a bridgeport style mill without the head tilt?
>>
>>2019541
yes I think there is one on resellcnc at the moment, they are still expensive as fuck.

if not check kdcapital.com instead
>>
44/60
>>
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This small horizontal boring mill is $600 on fb marketplace rn
>>
You guys know any handbooks or textbooks that serve as a good introduction to manual machining? Interested in both mills and lathes. I've done a little CNC stuff before, but always felt like I had a massive void of knowledge in that area, and I'd like to know it better.
>>
>>2020473
Here is a great Lathe one.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/17437.pdf
>>
>>2017084
post the top 5 most useful/common ones in the box
>>
>>2020518
1/2-13, 1/4-20 etc.
>>
>>2020473
the "Workshop Practice Series" of books is pretty excellent imo. It's from the 80's I think, so some of it is a bit dated, but it's great for the fundamentals. You can find all these online as pdf's if you just search.
https://www.librarything.com/series/Workshop+Practice+Series

They seem to be on internet archive, here's book 35, "Milling: A Complete Course"....
https://archive.org/details/35millingacompletecourse
>>
I just got a label printer and I'm playing around with some custom branding for shipped packages.

Anyone have any bright ideas?
>>
>>2020568
What do you mean?
Are you a small shop that doesnt have branding or something?
Pay a streetshitter on fiverr to make you a logo or something.
>>
>>2020594
lol k
>>
It's me again, buying my first lathe
I've found another offer, a Monarch lathe which I've heard good things about. What could go wrong with buying a lathe like this? It's priced 1500€
>>
>>2020625
ways so worn the gib is out of adjustment (can't tighten 'er anymore boss), screws or nut so worn they are about to give out and stop pushing the slides, broken gear(s), can't do metric threads just imperial or vise versa, needs new spindle bearings or something.

it should make parts though, it's a 2-axis lathe. and you probably won't even know what you're doing good enough to know what is wrong with it after you get it anyway.
>>
>>2020638
Except for the ways can those things be fixed readily? I'm pretty sure I won't find spare parts for a Monarch lathe in the Balkans where I'm at
Would I be better off with a chinese benchtop lathe for around the same price?
I would need a lathe to work on vintage tractors and making tools and agricultural machines like winches, wood chippers, augers etc. I'm not a total noob regarding machining
>>
>>2020646
No you would be better off with the Monarch, I think you can still buy parts from Monarch for those old lathes.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJTKIJ2Vm1o

oof
>>
>>2020473
If you can't do both CNC and manual machining, you're not going to master either one. The knowledge gained from learning one will greatly increase your skills with the other. People say you should learn manual first but I was programming entire parts by hand typing code before I ever got comfortable manually machining. I was taking programming courses before I ever even used an edge finder, indicated a pocket or drilled a hole using a bridgeport. The cnc knowledge put me miles ahead of someone starting from 0. By day 3 or 4 of being trained on manuals I was comfortable cutting whole parts with little oversight. Obviously, button pushing is not what I am talking about.
>>
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>>2019507
Damn i have been sharpening my flycutter on a silicon wheel for years and I had no idea. The cutting tool looks similar to this. As you can see, it's not indexable. Does the no grinding carbide rule apply to these too?
>>
>>2021144
he is talking about coated tools, don't even worry about sharpening your steel shanks with brazed on chunks of carbide.
>>
Whats the point of solid carbide drills? As far as I know carbide is extremely hard, but very weak as it is a brittle material. With drilling there is a shitload of rotational stress on the tool, as well as heat. Heat + stress will fucking wreck carbide. Drilling is a high stress operation compared to turning, grinding, and even milling. For those operations force is applied on the tool in even, predictable ways. With drilling and pecking you're getting your tool hot and cold over and over again. Every time I use a carbide spot drill or stub drill, they snap way way before HSS steel would, and to get them to last you have to run them extremely fucking slow. Please show me the light. I want to love carbide drills but I just can't, they always let me down.
>>
>>2021290
they are stiffer and don't wander off as easy, and the cutting edges last longer. harder for more difficult to machine materials too.

buy a kennametal GOdrill and tell me they suck
>>
>>2021290
>Whats the point of solid carbide drills
to fucking blast through material what the fuck do you think is the point
if any of the things you mentioned were the case, then no one would use carbide. The things you say are also true of all cutting tools. think about what carbide is. extremely hard, very strong/stiff and dense as fuck, with the side effect being brittle, so it can chip upon sudden impact . it can also withstand heat much better than hss can. so when an hss drill wanders, or you mash it into the part, since it is more ductile than carbide it wont break.

-proper speeds/feeds
-thru coolant
- you dont peck
>>
>>2021290
>Heat + stress will fucking wreck carbide.
Heat + stress will fucking wreck HSS, at much lower temperatures and lower stresses.

> Please show me the light
Listen to the manufacturers rated speeds and feeds for their product, if you are having issues its on your end. Quality carbide is very predictable, proper shops know exactly how many pieces they will get for each tool, will have their carbide drills resharpened, and expect to get just as many out of them for the life of the tool.
>>
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how do I make this part? I bored the taper through a block and cut it in half but I don't know how to get the flat in there. my only idea is dovetailing a trapezoidal spine in but that sounds annoying.
>>
>>2021359
If you've bored to where the small end of your taper is just tangent with where the flat is going to be? Set the side up against an angle/sine plate, step over with your endmill until one half the flat is satisfactory, do the same for the other side of the flat. If that's a radius lead in to the flat and didn't get put in when boring, stand it upright and go in with a radius cutter.
>>
>>2021759
I bored all the way through since I didn't think it would be possible to complete it otherwise without some kind of cnc or 4 axis. it's a clamping fixture and the flat is an anti-rotation feature.
>>
>>2021359
fucking screw it in
>>
>>2021290
>With drilling and pecking

You don't peck a solid carbide drill, throw out everything you know about conventional drills. If you have high pressure thru-spindle coolant and your speeds and feeds correct, you can fly through material at warp speeds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqhL_-hchFo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnqeY_EzBVM
>>
>>2021855
If i had the cash to spare I would probably buy a full set of Kennametal GOdrills to keep on hand. Full set of letter and number drills. They are fucking awesome drills.

Also, NEW SHOP TOUR: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnN1rvifKyg
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Dul5mnE-j4

This is pretty cool, I guess they pull the wires through the die like that to put a set into them before twisting into a bigger wire?
>>
>Tfw xom blowing up my fucking email with work this week

Gonna be a good year I bet.
>>
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Do burger flippers really make $25/hr these days?

Why is everyone always bitching about machinist pay if pic related is correct?
>>
Oh shit gucci caliper list is out.

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/inspection-and-measurement/top-5-digital-calipers-for-machinists/
>>
>>2022170
Machinists don't make shit in NC. I was programming 7 axis subspindle millturn machines (4 on main 3 on sub) doing prototyping for 18 dollars an hour. I could make more than that driving a box truck for some local distribution warehouse. If I didn't enjoy this trade there would be absolutely no point
>>
>>2022342
Damn, sucks.
>>
>>2021835
screw how? I cut the dovetail and made a wedge today but my estimated dimensions were off so I have to file it some. I broke my dovetail cutter too somehow. which sneeds and feeds are based on the small diameter and which are the big one?
>>
>>2022436
i don't evne know what im looking at in that crappy drawing, learn CAD.

but i figured you could pocket the entire section out from the OD to the ID then screw it in place from the outside.
>>
>>2022443
it's supposed to be a vise fixture to clamp a tapered shaft with a flat section cut on one side.
>>
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https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/us-bolts-tensile-proof-load-d_2066.html

According to this thing I can use a 15,000 lb bottle jack with just one of my three 1" 8tpi bolts holding it right? So it has a 300% safety margin (or so)?

Making a tiny press for a friend.
>>
>>2021855
Damn filming these commercials would be fun. Standing around cranking the feeds and speeds up to hell until something bad happens
>>
>>2022694
>right
No. That press uses three bolts that surround the jack to provide evenly balanced support so the load can be carried entirely in tension. If only one of the bolts is bearing the load, the plates will deflect and bend the bolt. The bending strength of a bolt is way less than its tensile strength.
>>
>>2022733
i meant theoretically, as if only one bolt was perfectly centered and holding it
>>
>>2022757
>i meant theoretically
Theoretically, in the press configuration you showed, no. As explained above.

>as if only one bolt was perfectly centered and holding it
Thatt's not the theoretical situation you gave above. How is this new system supposed to work, structurally? If you just want to know if the tensile strength of a 1" bolt can exceed 15,000lbs, why not ask that specifically?
>>
>>2022733
>If only one of the bolts is bearing the load, the plates will deflect and bend the bolt
the jack is captive, it might deflect 1/16" before you preload it all the way which will then have it square with the press.

>If you just want to know if the tensile strength of a 1" bolt can exceed 15,000lbs, why not ask that specifically?

He already does, lol that 300% number didn't come out of his ass.
>>
I made the switch from job shop retard to tool and die retard. I may be one of the youngest tool and die makers in my state
>>
>>2021811
Is it possible to alter the design for a keyway? Thats a very complex design if you want accuracy without CNC. Perhaps it could be done on a normal milling machine if you hold the piece at the correct angle and offsets on a rotating platton and use an end mill for the whole thong
>>
>>2022789
>the jack is captive, it might deflect 1/16" before you preload it all the way which will then have it square with the press.
The jack is square with the top plate. With only one bolt holding it in place, the top plate will not be square with the press. The hole in the plate needs to be large enough for easy assembly, and if it wasn't made to the tolerances of a linear bearing, it won't act like one. And a 1" grade 2 bolt can only handle about 3600 inch-lbs of bending load before it deforms permanently. If we eyeball the center of the jack as 4" from the center of the bolt, the jack will produce 17 times that in use.

>He already does, lol that 300% number didn't come out of his ass.
It came from the link here >>2022694. I'm guessing he was looking for a sanity check to be sure he was reading the chart correctly. How else would you interpret this bit here >>2022757? And the part here >>2022694 where the point of asking about one bolt being able to handle the load was to confirm a safety margin in the three-bolt design?
>>
>>2022694
And to answer the question you apparently meant rather than asked, yes, three 1" steel bolts will hold the load fine. If the press is centered in an equilateral triangle, they will share the load equally, giving that big safety margin.

Three issues with that design, however:

The middle plate is free to wobble, and if the pressed object is not centered very well, it will tilt and bind against the bolts. Welding on some pipes that encircle the bolts to prevent wobbling would fix that. There is plenty of room next to the jack, and the longer you make them, the less resistance to movement the plate will have. Just get them very straight and precisely aligned with the holes.

The jack is upside-down. That style of bottle jack typically relies on gravity to keep the oil fed to the pump intake. Just attach it to the movable plate instead of the top plate. That will also help to keep it straight, especially if you make a socket on the top plate to hold the top of the jack piston in place.

Spring return. Put some springs on it that will automatically retract the movable plate when the jack is not pushing against it. Huge usability issue.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwAvaLAH_RY
>>
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I am sleeving a break action shotgun barrel with a piece of 1008. The barrel functions as is, but the sleeve will serve as a extra layer of protection and for cosmetics. My barrel is 1.055. I have a drill and reamer that will make a 1.050 hole. My plan is to drill, ream, the sleeve. Then make a shitty poverty hone, hone it for 30 min or so, blowtorch the fuck out of it and shrink fit It to the barrel. I cannot accurately bore on this lathe as it is a clapped out abused shitbox sitting on uneven cracked concrete stored in horrific conditions for years straight. It turns an insane taper, it isn't even close to level. You can take two passes with the dro zerod in X and the second pass will cut .007 deeper. The carriage visibly twists on the beginning of cuts no matter how hard you tighten the cross slide. Tool posts slide around after every cut. it's a horrible lathe. My question is, can I hone out .0045 with emory cloth tapped around a mandrel in a cordless drill? Pic related. And how much will my sleeve actually expand with a buetane torch? What should I shoot for before blowtorching? Is my plan retarded? If I fuck this up and overshoot it, as long as it's still a slight interference fit or slip fit I am fine with jb welding the sleeve in place. Please shit all over my plan and explain the proper way to do this
>>
>>2023245
Od of sleeve will be 1.25. id 1.0545(?). It's about 4 inches long.
>>
>>2023245
yes you can sandpaper 4 and a half thou
>>
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>>2021359
make 2 parts
just make the corners square, the engineers at work try to do to pull that shit all the time, even though we have a wire edm, my manager still says no. just because it doesnt have to be like that, so he makes square corners
>>
>>2023245
>I cannot accurately bore on this lathe as it is a clapped out abused shitbox

You can't really bore a gun barrel, anyway. They're too long and skinny. That's why they're drilled and reamed.

But I question whether you'd be able take that much off of a bore that long with a hone without measurably fucking the geometry of the bore, especially with a ghetto-ass sandpaper hone. Personally, I'd just get or make a reamer of the proper size, but the accuracy of the bore might not really matter if it's just a cosmetic sleeve.
>>
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>>2023268
The shotgun barrel is done already. The sleeve will cover the breech when closed. Pls no bully the finish, this is proof of concept. The next one will be beautiful
>>
>>2023268
The sleeve will extend from the beginning of the fore end to the back of the breech to be clear. This is at most, 6 inches or so
>>
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>>2022927
I made the thing but it didn't work. even with it in the 20 ton press when I started trying to turn it just deformed the insert and started spinning. I guess the tolerances were wrong. I realized that there was no reason for it to be dovetailed and just made a straight slot with another insert, but it still didn't work. I don't know if I should try with a steel piece or not.

>>2022876
how do you make that upgrade? is it at the same place or a new one?

>>2023245
how are you going to make the sleeve fit over the lump? instead of trying to hone to dimensions I would just ream it for a clearance fit and solder it on. you could probably even get away with acraglas. if you have to hone instead of sandpaper you might be able to find a brake hone that will fit.

>>2023271
damn that looks like an absolute piece of shit.

>>2023263
even if you make the corners square how do you do it with the taper?
>>
Haas automation is tonka toy shit
>>
>>2023288
wat you didn't drill and tap for bolts to keep it clamped around the barrel?
>>
>>2023288
and have you already tried a good strap wrench?
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXL1fKbfp9o

PM shop tour, proteum machining. Pretty cool.

I really need to finance a mori HMC, only one left of the ones I've been looking at and it's the best one.
>>
wtf manual mill centroid conversion only $1,250

https://www.resellcnc.com/products/used-cnc-verticals/01t3Z000004eqDRQAY/atrump_vertical_mill
>>
>>2023491
I didn't have stock big enough for that so I just set the blocks up on the press and then crank it down as hard as I can without crushing the barrel

>>2023492
I don't think a strap wrench will work since the shank is tapered
>>
>>2021144
to clarify, there are some solid carbide tools that you can infact re-grind, but most cheap stuff is CVD tooling. if you are buying 300 dollar tooling for CVD insert prices, hook me up! :)
>>
>>2024022
CVD/PVD coated tools shouldn't be impossible to regrind... You just won't have the benefits of the coating.
>>
>>2020268
visible rust on the ways, and knee. plus you have to remember that a HBM like that one doesn't have as much x, and y travel as you would hope for. it also looks like that machine has no tilt on the head? so if you want to only do perpendicular stuff? or lots of trig...
600$ is probably what you could make selling it for scrap, after taking the cost to transport it to a scrapyard. assuming it's base is mostly solid.
>>2021290
when you are using carbide tools, are you trippling your speeds? carbide likes heat, and speed.
>>2024029
correct, but you might as well just use HSS at that point because it's cheaper.
>>
>>2024037
>correct, but you might as well just use HSS at that point because it's cheaper.
lol no.

sharpening carbide tools will last longer than HSS tools, so less sharpening.
>>
>>2024135
You should look up what the differences between solid carbide tooling, and CVD/PVD tooling are.
Then get back to me on it.
It's like saying the chewy core of your fat mother's ass is as tough as her thick, and scaley hide. ;)
>>
>>2024163
what the fuck is CVD/PVD those are just coatings over regular carbide

unless you're talking about some kind of powdered metal they make cheap carbide drills out of
>>
>>2024166
Chemical vapour deposition, and physical vapour deposition.
you know anything about tooling, or no?
>>
>>2024172
yeah those are fancy coatings for carbide
>>
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>>2024166
this is what a chipped carbide insert looks like.
notice how the hard coating is lost on the damaged area.
This coating is what actually helps the insert with heat, and abrasion resistance.
>>2021181
you might have missed this other dude's post, but I am not wrong about coated carbide inserts.
certainly there are some positive benifits to re-sharpening solid carbide endmills, and drills.
but usually it's not done in industry. as these solid carbide tools often contain lead,cobalt and other "fun" additives to help with manufacturing and toughness.
So if you are adamant on griding your dull solid carbide tooling, atleast do it outside.
>>
>>2024172
>>2024196
that's solid carbide with titanium nitride coating. unless it's some chink scam I've never seen or even heard of tooling that's only carbide coated.
>>
>>2024196
even raw carbide out preforms HSS
>>
>>2024196
>This coating is what actually helps the insert with heat, and abrasion resistance.

So?

>>2024316
^ this
>>
>>2024196
>certainly there are some positive benifits to re-sharpening solid carbide endmills, and drills.
>but usually it's not done in industry.

bullshit, it's done all the time on large endmills, you can send them back to major companies like harvey/helical for a re-grind. I bet if you asked the other companies like kennametal/iscar/sandvik they would be willing to regrind them too.
>>
>>2024630
Lots of little shops will regrind small endmills and carbide drills, proper shops will even send them in and get the coatings stripped and replaced. TIALN is the best for Steel and TICN is best for aluminum. And TIN doesnt actually improve tool life in carbide, there is a reason no companies use it.
>>
>>2024196
>So if you are adamant on griding your dull solid carbide tooling, atleast do it outside.
Shops grind under coolant,
It has a really odd smell when you do grind it dry and breath the dust.
>>
>>2024196
Are you trying to claim that uncoated poverty carbide bits are ungrindable? I'm not talking about high end exotic coated indexable milling inserts, I mean like a fucking grout scraper or $2 masonry/concrete drill or even a $10 amazon turning tool w brazed on chunk of raw carbide
>>
>>2024674
to be fair, if they are made in china they might not actually be worthwhile carbide at all without the coating painted on them.

there is a reason the carbide they use in china inserts weighs so much less than real inserts. it's probably like crushed up toilets or something.
>>
Old guy at work was describing a bubble level tool height thing for centering your cutting tool to the work piece. Anyone ever heard of one? Sounds interesting. I usually just make face cuts until i got no nipple left but I'm curious now.
>>
>>2024643
>TICN is best for aluminum
it's better than zrn?
>>
we regrind endmills all the time, we even buy cheap reground endmills. sometimes we just get the bottom reground, sometimes the whole diameter if the length of the cutting edge is killed. $20 to regrind 1/2 em, $40 for a new one. shit works fine. they even sell uncoated carbide tools. still way better than hss
>>
>>2025080
I think I have a ticn coated endmill I used on aluminum once, it's a poor imitation of ZRN
>>
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how are you supposed to make a taper when it's dimensioned with a datum diameter? I made this cylinder with the id matching the datum diameter and the length the same as the linear dimension and just cut until the ends lined up. is there a better way to do it?
>>
>>2025080
TICN is slick and repeals galling like ZRN does, while actually being a hard coat.
Both are great for aluminum, with TICN being better for tougher gummier aluminum that ZRN struggles with.
>>
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>>2024993
It seems unnecessary
>>
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What is the metal equivalent for a router table? I'm trying to round over the edges of some small mild steel pieces but I can't find any practical power tool to do it with. The closest thing I found was a bevel mill but I haven't found one with a flat surface like a router table for doing inside curves
>>
>>2025638

Use a wood router, the bits are carbide and will work surprisingly
>>
>>2025638
Machinist here. We'd usually just clamp it in a vice attached to a mill table and run a formed cutter around the edges. It's faster with a cnc. But for a home project you probably don't have access to one and paying a job shop to do it costs more than people think. Theres no easy cheap way that is really good, next best is a router table with a bit thats made of something quite hard. The greater the surfacea area that you have to round over the harder it will be to get a good finish so if you can just break the edge, you bight get horrible chatter trying to do it by hand on a deeper cut.
>>
>>2025638
mill with a corner rounding endmill
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5v1B9tgbts
>>
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>>2018880
update on this. trammed the head with another area of the table and got it right. checked on other areas and they were all perfect. just that one spot was a high spot? kind of has me worried. it was under right where the old vise was if that is reason? idk.
also older coworker gave me a few of his tools that he said he wont use anymore. pretty neat, shoutout to him.
>>
>>2025943
nice that's a couple hundred worth of tools. did you suck his dick?
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ti1k06bgkw4

pretty cool meatloaf
>>
>>2025943
oh shit that's a high precision indicator, nice

calipers look nice too

would prefer a mitutoyo digital mic, the super precision one I have tho.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbfm4nyu8Ro
>>
If bidenbux goes though I want to get myself a mini/benchtop mill. Are there any brands to look at other than little machine shop and grizzly? Id like to spend $1,000 or less and save the rest of the money for tooling. Bonus nachos if there are commonly available CNC kits for it, should I ever get the itch. I think the sieg x2d would be perfect for me, but the fuckers are never in stock for more than a few days and now they're back ordered to March. but even then if I can spend a few hundred dollars more to get a little more space and/or power that would be fine too, just so long as it's not a shitpile with a fancy pants motor.
>>
>>2026399
Just buy it you retard.
Weve spent the last month in several threads telling you not to, but you wont listen
Enjoy buying your glorified drill press that will be far too loud to use in your apartment.
>>
>>2025943
hey it's me your friend, i need those back thanks
>>
>>2026399
see if you can buy a used one for like $300
>>
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>>2026415
well this guy might be crazy it at least proves there are mini mills on fb marketplace
>>
>>2026408
Literally the first time I posted in emt in like three fucking years dipshit. Last time I posted is when I picked up that old 1990 whatever harbor freight 12x36 lathe. Stupid nigger.

>>2026415
Oh I've looked but The used tool scene around me isn't that big because coastie Cityfag, let alone "heavy" machinery like this. Plus I don't really want to get used because chasing down little problems that crop up on old used machines especially if they were abused gets real old real fast, see aforementioned lathe.
>>
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>>2026431
kek ok then but you know chang is going to wipe his ass with your mill parts before lighting up a cigar with a crisp $20 thanks to you
>>
>>2026435
I would see if one of these sellers would be willing to take it apart and mail it in pieces. Provided it ends up cheaper that way.
>>
>>2026435
>Buying a used harbor freight knock off of a sieg, which is the worst clone of one of them you can buy of course, for the MSRP of a brand new seig
>>
>>2026438
yeah i figured that was too high, i'm not even sure what they are going for these days

but still, there are listings damnit
>>
>>2025943
>it was under right where the old vise was

Did you stone off the table or check for burrs before you trammed it?

Also those are some nice tools, treat them good and they will last you a lifetime.
>>
>>2026440
Well the MSRP on the horrible freight is 900 fucking dollars for some reason, so compared to that 750 isnt bad but like I said it's basically the worst clone you can buy and the MSRP of a brand spankin new actual seig
>>
>>2026408
What would you suggest then
>>
>only guy at the shop who can prog at the controller
>Take massive workload off of office programmer for little bullshit fixtures and easy jobs
>2 years ago
>"Plz give raise, I am programming for button pusher money"
>"Sorry bro no money for raises right now"
>1 year ago
>"Plz give raise, I have been programming for button pusher money for a year now"
>"Sorry bro no money for u"
>3 weeks ago
>"Here is my two week notice. I have found another shop that will pay me what my time now costs"
>"Plz stay, here is *bullshit amount* lmao"
>"Fuck off"
>"Plz stay, here is *slightly more*
>"I said no fuck off"
>"Plz I am begging u here is *way overbid the other shop* and we will give u a free homak toolbox"
>"Ok I stay now"

Why is this trade like this? Why do u gotta literally threaten to quit to get paid?
>>
I dropped my calipers and completely smashed the shit out of the inside jaws. Had I left them alone, they would have failed calibration. I polished them on the back of the jaw on a soft scotch brite wheel until the smashed part was removed evenly on both sides, making sure to keep them cool using light pressures. Before under a jewelers loupe, you could clearly see they were completely fucked. Now under a loupe compared to calipers of the same make and model they are nearly idetical minus .010 on the jaw depth or something miniscule. Held to a light, no light peaks through even at the tip. They passed calibration. Am I retarded? I heard this is what they do if you send them off to be repaired. Note that I did not polish any of the measurement surface, just the back of the jaw.
>>
>>2026725
Well clearly the boss got away with it for 2 years, so why would he think anything other than he can continue to get away with it
>>
>>2026725
I don't know, my dad never bitched about the pay doing tool and die.
>>
>>2026725
I hope you are leaving anyway.
>>
>>2026743
They signed another 2 year lease with me, that's it. No regular raises, you don't get my skills.
>>
>>2026821
hmm I wonder if this guy is actually a pajeet over-valuing his skills?
>>
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>>2026219
lol. last year he said he would retire in a few years. he hasnt said anything else about it since but its probably still on his mind.
>>2026443
I must confess that i didnt. i probably should do that. how do i know im not going to fuck up the table?
>>
2' of 2" 6061 bar:
$119 on alro
$102 on speedy metals
$68 on online metals

what's the trick? also my boss is finally approving buying stock for fixtures and shit. what should I ask for?
>>
>>2026725
>Why is this trade like this? Why do u gotta literally threaten to quit to get paid?

Because you arent in the union so you have little to no power for leverage
The fact that you had to go and get a different job offer to force your employer to give you a raise to keep up with inflation, while your workload had significantly increased is pathetic.
Ultimately its your own fault, you let your employer walk all over you for 2 years, they know they can continue to walk on you.

>>2026845
How can you suck the shop owners dick when clearly another shop was paying closer to market price. And then they immediately gave him the raise?
And you know this doormat didnt actually negotiate with the second shop like he should have, so his offer was probably too low anyways.
>>
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im really hoping someone here can help me with this. fusion 360 cam is going to make me blow my fuckin brains out. ive been fighting with this 45 degree ramp for 8 hours. im self teaching so im sure im the problem but in over 8 hours ive gone through every option and operation i can think of. this is the closest i got. this is being cut out of 1 inch solid stock. there has to be a better way. i really want it to cut the stock down to the contour in as few lifts as possible but i must not be selecting the right faces. either it tries to machine the hole again or it just ignores that theres still stock above the ramp and crashes into unremoved material. i havent been able to get any parallel functions to do it either. if anyone can offer some insight or tell me better terms to google to find the answer i would really appreciate it. part photo without toolpaths to follow
>>
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>>2027122
>>
>>2026725
You should have taken the offer at the new shop.
They actually wanted you around and were willing to pay you better.
Instead you are with a company that has proven they dont value you, they were willing to lowball you.

You played hardball with them, and you think they wont take offense to that?
Expect repercussions for your actions.
>>
>>2027124
>>2027122
Unless you have a 5th axis then that might just be another setup...

I'd lay it flat after cutting the hole and then use a 2d contour to cut that. It might take longer and be less effcient...
>>
>>2027122
Also turn on rest machining
>>
>>2026988
the trick is probably that they will take forever to cut it and ship it from the lower price places and it will probably be shittier aluminum with like little pieces of aluminum pressed into the outside of the rough stock. might also be crooked or something.
>>
>>2027122
touch or avoid faces, select all faces of the hole and mkae sure it's on avoid mode instead of touch mode
>>
>>2027122
"in as few lifts as possible"
set your boundary larger then, the tool probably thinks it can't go outside the boundary so it has to lift up and reposition
>>
>>2026999
>Because you arent in the union so you have little to no power for leverage
https://www.foxnews.com/politics/afl-cio-president-richard-trumka-keystone-xl-biden-unions
or they might just walk all over you with the union's blessing all the while they are taxing you for the privilege
>>
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>>2027182
>>2027180
I was hoping I would be able to cut rectangles out of the stock to match the slope like this. It's really simple g code but getting the software to model it shouldn't be this hard. I have rest machining on but it still tries to cut the back face of the hole cleared in the previous bore operation. It seems like it ignores my settings a lot of the time. Sorry for ms paint picture I'm not at my cad computer
>>
>>2027293
>>2027295
I'll attempt these when I get back to my computer. I tried both of them but I'll look at it again.
>>
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>>2027310
tool outside of boundary + avoid surface the bore

does some stupid loops that i can probably change in the linking tab
>>
>>2027122
>no 3d contour

nigga you done fucked up
>>
>>2027318
I tried everything bro, that was the closest I could get ;_;

>>2027315
That's at least closer than I got. I'll try and replicate it
>>
>>2027315
Actually looking at that again, that is still a problem because I have stock in the way. I need to cut the stock down before I cut the 45 or the tool crashes.
>>
>>2027326
no it isn't, it starts at the bottom provided you have a tool long enough
>>
>>2027331
oh wait it starts at the top, that is adjustable though
>>
>>2027347
Can you tell me how? I haven't figured that out yet.
>>
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>>2027355
with bottom to top it keeps wanting to lift the tool up

so i set
linking->retraction policy -> minimum retract

and now it doesn't waste too much time doing that
>>
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>>2027347
this is after replicating your post with dont touch surfaces added. i guess i hadnt added enough surfaces to not touch before. i still have the material issue from before. ive circled it
>>
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>>2027369
>>
>>2027370
i wouldn't even worry about that irl it will just get ripped off and not be big enough to damage your tool probably

but you can adjust probably your stepdown to clear that off i assume
>>
>>2027370
>units: mm

well there's your problem anon
>>
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>>2027372
>>2027369
adding the "order by depth" option cleared it and now sends the tool completely across the part like i wanted. i could kiss you im so relieved.
>>
>>2027377
actually removing the "order bottom up" but keeping the "order by depth" keeps in contact with the flutes and clears the little island from >>2027370
>>
>>2027377
so you are like a euro guy trying to make a decorative 9mm brake?
>>
>>2026884
it's 2021 the US is practically a 3rd world country now, you need investments to retire.
>>
>>2027298
Based retard proud to be making half the money his peers are
>>
>>2027381
no im just bad at imperial lol
a friend mentioned it would be funny to have a slant brake on his handgun and i needed the fusion practice.
>>
>>2027408
I think I would use a 3d parallel toolpath on that, it would start from one side going top to bottom then bottom to top both ways, but not dip down into the center pocket area.

with a small stepover it would be just like side milling except with the Z axis moving too.
>>
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>>2027413
oh well probably too complicated for you
>>
>>2027418
>>2027413
i was able to get it to do that yesterday but it kept going in the pocket. now that i understand the "dont touch" check box i should be able to do it.
>>
>>2027418
hows this? only took 30 minutes but i figured it out
>>
>>2027442
Not too bad I guess. I bet there is a way to make it not skip over the hole and just continue on with the toolpath.

I know one way to do it would be to make a patch over that surface, but there might also be an option to do that.
>>
>>2027444
thats what im looking for. it was trying to lift over the hole because the surface was marked as "dont touch" but its seeing it as a full cylinder. i messed with the pathing and got it to just do the surface. i would prefer it to act as vertical milling though.
>>
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>>2027449
just draw a new surface over top of the old one . it makes life easy
>>
>>2027463
I had attempted that and it didn't work but I've learned from this thread since then so I'll try that again
>>
>>2027485
you can do that most easily with the Patch enivronment

then select the "model" as the patch
>>
>>2027530
Noted. Thanks for the information. I'm not near my computer again so I'll try it later.
>>
https://youtu.be/PuPjv_GMv2w
>>
>>2027557
this video should show you how to use a patch to drive the toolpath instead of model
>>
>>2027559
>>2027557
Wow thanks! That makes it easy easier.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Db_WSvHqf8

Grob shop tour
>>
I remember a guy on here talking about going the extra mile in the shop to use every bit of material and being under-appreciated for it. Machining brass or something expensive that guy would go pretty far in my little shop.

I just saved like $500 on a job just by holding onto less stock.
>>
>>2026444
Theses chink mills used to be 500 with coupons. Now they want 900 ? Fuck that get a the larger grizzly for that money.
>>
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>>2023288
Bro I had trouble like you did but what i ended up doing was using some flexable brake/clutch pad material that I bought off of mcmastercarr. Shit worked wonders. I made my own barrel vice that I clamped down on in a hydraulic press. It has 2 3/4 rods acting as guides. Im sure you can get the brake/clutch pad material from other places. Nice thing is it didnt mar or scratch the barrel. Pic related
>>
>>2028205
is the entire thing made out of that material or are you just using it as shims around the barrel? do you remember what it's called?
>>
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>>2028225
Im using it as shims around the barrel. Heres the stuff:
https://www.mcmaster.com/6175K834
Its really flexible so it just molds itself to the barrel. Its also easy to cut to shape. Heres a pic of me boring out the vise as well.
>>
>>2028229
Also I should add it comes in 4in wide strips in certain lengths. I bought a 1ft long piece, which is more than I needed, for $14. It works great, doesnt leave marks/residue/whatever. After I pulled the barrel off of my rifle I tested the whole setup with a piece of 1in pipe. Using a 3ft pipe wrench and a 4ft cheater pipe on that I still wasnt able to get the pipe to slip in the vise. Dam near flipped over the hydraulic press though. Pants were shat.
>>
>>2028237
so if my barrel shank has a 1 degree taper can I just crush that shit around it and have the bore in the vise tbe straight?
>>
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What are engine output shafts made out of?

Today I had to drill a cotter pine hole through a crankshaft (output shaft?) on a tiny bebe internal combustion engine. .078 hole, on a .312 shaft. It went well for about .125 deep and then rapidly workhardened using raw hss drill. I mean, no chips or anything just straight up grinding and squealing. I got myself a .062 carbide endmill and was able to painstakingly plunge through the hard spot being careful not to break my fragile cutting tool. Drilled it to size after I plunged through with no issue. That material was very strange, I have never had something go from cutting like butter to drilling into diamond so quickly. The engine came with thread damage where the customer retardedly tried to grind a flat spot into the threads so his cordless drill wouldn't walk, maybe the heat from the grinder annealed the outer surface of the shaft? Anybody have a clue what I was working with?
>>
>>2028602
4140 prehard maybe? just soft enough to machine properly, still kind of hard.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlXGJ_mTtAI
>>
>>2028243
Yes, the brake/clutch pad material will conform to your barrel, since the vise I made is a bit oversized I can use it on pretty much any barrel size/shape, just add more pad material.
>>
besides fusion 360 are there any free as in free beer cad programs?
>>
What is the best way to ensure that a thread that I make with a manual die is perfectly straight?
>>
>>2028835
screw thread gauge onto it, measure that?
>>
>>2028842
I’m thinking more along the lines of the process to do it; I have a specific stock length that needs straight threading but if I fuck up the angle of the thread then I need to get more stock and go again
>>
>>2028871
you might have to call the company that made your thread die and ask them what the tolerances are for concentricity and what the best place (and way) to measure runout is.
>>
>>2028871
Because you never know if the OD of the die is actually concentric to the thread cutting area.

One other solution might be a floating die holder, like those floating reamer holders for chamber reaming, etc.
>>
>>2028872
Yeah I’m already planning on that
>>2028875
One idea I had is something like the guide for an annular cutter, since that way it’ll interface with the pipe and maintain concentricity that way
>>
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So I'm thinking about making a trepanning tool that will leave me with 1 & 3/8" diameter brass rods worth around $45-50 (mcmaster pricing) a piece from each job I do for a specific customer.

Anyone have experience using or making these things? I might be able to just buy one for around $1000 from sandvik.
>>
>>2028928
I would like to do it without needing to make insert cartridges but perhaps that will not be possible.
>>
Hey
I’m not a machinist although ironically my late father was, I’m a scale model hobbyist and over the last 2 years I’ve been wishing that I had a lathe to shape metal parts, mostly small parts from about an 0.5 cm to 3 cm but I figured the price would be prohibitive since I’m kind of poor
Are there any options for someone on a budget who isn’t using the machine for a job?
How difficult are lathes to learn?
Are desktop lathes a thing?
Thanks
>>
>>2028957
pocketNC?
>>
>>2028959
Is that the price range I’d be expecting? Cause that’s the price I expected but not one I can afford atm sadly
I suppose I’ll have to give it a miss until retirement and make do with 3d printing until then, thanks
>>
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>>2028960
I would find a place you can set something very heavy and find a quality brand (used) small lathe like a little weiler or something.

Under $3k probably.
>>
>>2028957
>Are there any options for someone on a budget who isn’t using the machine for a job?
For small scale work, there are a lot of small lathes out there.
In the USA, Taig and Sherline come to mind. Old Unimats maybe.
Just look for Jewelers type lathes locally around you.
They can be had pretty cheap
>>
Is there any resource about analyzing tooling marks and inferring what tooling or machines were used as well as the potential reasons for the markings, such as too fast of a feed rate, dull tooling etc?
Like for instance, you can tell some stamped parts by looking at the edges and seeing they are still rough from the material being sheared at that point.
>>
>>2028976

Are you serious, forgetting South Bend? Literally revolutionized lathes and are ubiquitous and whose designs everyone copied
>>
my boss keeps complaining that I don't keep the shop clean enough but I don't think he's being fair. I sweep up every day and wipe chips and oil off tools off before I put them away, but he's mad that there are fingerprints on screwdriver handles and toolbox drawers. there's no sink in the shop and the sink that I've been instructed to use on the other side of the building hasn't had soap refilled in amost a year. today he was complaining that there was greasy dust on the shop vac that I use to suck chips out of the t slots on the bridgeport. is this unreasonable or am I just lazy? I don't see how I'm supposed to keep everything spotless unless I spend half my day cleaning.
>>
>>2022170

2 years experience in a job shop, programming long hand, using conversational and with cam for all sorts of parts on 3 and 4 axis haas machines.

$15.50 per hour. I'm married with 5 kids so that wage lets me live like a single undocumented Mexican making $5 per hour under the table...
>>
>>2029463
Dude you gotta quit that job what the fuck. You are worth easily $20/hr in a shithole state if you are not lying. If you can go from piece of paper to stable machining process to part in a few hours or so with no pestering anyone for help you are worth your weight in gold... Not many people can do this. When most people say "machinist" they mean they can measure tools and use an edge finder in a CNC mill you are obviously more than that
>>
>>2029426
I hope your boss gets hit by a car and dies in the hospital
>>
>>2029426
>unless I spend half my day cleaning.

If you have time to lean, you have time to clean!
Its just overbearing bosses trying to micromanage and wring more "productivity" out of you.
Id find another job and tell him to get fucked
>>
>>2029277
South bend didnt really make micro lathes, and a 9" swing is going to be far more than he really needs. Not to mention more expensive because of the name
>>
new edge precision

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JodAVb399Ns
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wocSUyEozXU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxm0KpPQcxY

big boring with wilks in uk
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ez2Y3T8P0k0
>>
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Sneeds feeds and speeds formerly chuck
>>
>>2029830
I still kind of want to get some kind of fancy chucking arrangement so it's faster to set up for jobs.

My options are
>big collet chuck, like the royal system
>fancy (and super expensive) quick change jaw chuck from schunk
>and what else??

It looks like the royal collet chuck is only like 3 or 4" diameter max so that's out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVhNPKH6hts
>>
I would give this one an award for innovation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zU92zZjwQMI
>>
I just saw a job posting for basically my dream job that will teach me skills I can't learn anywhere else, but the posting is only for a 12 week internship. am I a bad enough dude to quit my current fairly well paying job that I don't really enjoy for this and hope I can somehow wrangle a full time job at the end?
>>
>>2029954
well you aint gettin any younger
>>
>>2028602
Your drillbit may have work hardened it
>>
gonna be 15 degrees F monday, might have to run the wood stove as well as my furnace.
>>
>>2030620
oh wait monday is presidents day
>>
>>2029954
> basically my dream job
Its only your dream job until you start doing it
Just like any other hobby turned job, it quickly stops being your hobby.

If you are settled down, and have a good job with decent job security just drop the idea.
You arent supposed to enjoy work, its fucking work.
What you strive for is to be apathetic to your job. I would only jump ship if your current work makes you want to blow your fucking brains out every morning.
>>
>>2022170
These are boomers who have been with the company for 40 years.
ITT are kids fresh out of high school complaining about not having that exp.and 40 years worth of raises
>>
>>2015219
Hi, I'm the guy who started making these threads and WHO THE FUCK HAS CHANGED THE HYMN.
anyway, I found some links from the first pastas. I'll leave them here if anyone wants to take a look
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M [Embed]
https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M [Embed]
https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo [Embed]
>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
https://www.youtube.com/user/featony
>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA
>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/
>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY [Embed]
>>
>>2030984
and maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy3yElAWwI [Embed]
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1oASjbm2F8 [Embed]
and https://www.youtube.com/user/Threadexpress
and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzaz39hUUKM [Embed]
and for old iron and restoring it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc5Z_Mo2J0Y&t=0s [Embed]
and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4vaszLFBOE [Embed]
and stefan gotteswinter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJgXH6K9GIU&t=1s [Embed]
and another guy that does metal castings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5pu3hJ7SZE [Embed]
and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aP3SIWIVlY&t=0s [Embed]
and this guy isn't too big an idiot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDJOJSBXswo [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ/featured
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXoG9uEMIpA [Embed]

http://www.cnc1.com/files/PDF/FANUC-CNC-Specifications/Fanuc_0i-MD_Standard_Features_and_Options.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20-%20PARAMETER%20MANUAL.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20%28VMC%29%20-%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poOngCE7tyM [Embed]

https://www.youtube.com/user/AndersonPrototypes/videos

https://www.youtube.com/user/artisandice/videos

https://www.youtube.com/user/jhawkdesign/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0

https://www.youtube.com/user/l0ckcr4ck3r/videos

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuusVnkjtCWzO5FHLNsDxRg

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6QfeDvhEuA5DiUoypF9OYw/videos

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7BdO8koXBLWmzjYLT2aSoA/videos

https://www.youtube.com/user/tjzelick/videos
>>
>>2022170
The bar for the title "machinist" is unbelievably low imo. Most guys doing the same 8 setups over and over in a production shop are button pushers still imo. I could do setups like 3 weeks into operating a CNC lathe but I certainly was no machinist. Machinist goes from print to part in a profitable timeframe. If you can't do this, get your shit together
>>
>>2031002
Just wait until you find out how low the bar for the title "Engineer" is.
>>
>>2030984
>I'm the guy who started making these thread

YOU MEAN ME?
>>
>>2030986
I bet we get a lot more cool videos like those this summer.
>>
>>2031010
in math class parallelism was always taught as with straight lines, I blame them
>>
>>2031023
>these threads
I made a mistake. I am the dude who started the EMT threads.
>>
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Need some help guys. Have this old mill I'm going to run via VFD. Can't find any info on this particular motor, but according to the nameplate, it's a 3hp, 3phase 60hz 220v. Now what the hell is CONT.400??? continuous duty cycle? Then what's 400? 400v at full speed? Is that even possible? The mill is a USA made wartime machine, so 220v should be the norm right? I have it running with a 5hp vfd right now, but suspect it may be underpowering the motor. Seems like it may be lacking power and the vfd errored out on spin up a couple of times so I want to make sure I'm using the correct inputs. Thanks!
>>
>>2031035
Never mind, I think I answered my own question. It's CONT.40C, not 400. I can't tell by looking at the nameplate but when I zoomed into the image could clearly see. Thanks anyway guys! You helped me figure it out!
>>
>>2031036
You are welcome friend, post any time these questions are the easiest.
>>
>>2030640
Nobody listen to this fucknut, enjoying what you do for a living is not an unattainable fantasy.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tjq3IidJW4w
lol lewd
>>
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>>2031023
>>2030986
>>2030984
>>2031032

who cares, we all have google. post a better fucking image every fucking time such a shit image. like an extra 5 seconds and you have have something relevant and recognizable
>>
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>>2031128
fuck ,sittin here ,just laughin like an idiot
>>
>>2030640
it's basically my job now but I larp while doing it and actually have someone to teach me shit
>>
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Just got one of these off craigslist, going to use it to learn some cam and fuck around with. It has 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 chucks, what are some essential endmills that I should get?
>>
>>2031327
1/8" lakeshore carbide ZRN coated 3fl
>>
>>2031070
Thanks. I've been on 4chan for a while but only discovered /diy/ today. Will be lurking regularly from now on.
Got a couple of questions off the bat. I'm a home gamer with a small shop in a shed, slowly learning machining as a hobby. Have a beat-to-shit south bend heavy 10 lathe and a wartime gorton mill that I picked up for a steal. The lathe has deep wear on the ways and lots of slop everywhere. The head seems ok though it's pretty loud. Should I try to refurbish the machine or just sell and replace with something better? The mill uses older b&s#10 taper. My research seems to suggest that an adapter to accept r8 tooling is possible. Haven't seen any for sale, thinking of attempting this myself at some point. Anyone have experience with antiquated mill tapers? Bonus question - handsaw or cold saw? I only have room for one. Cheers!
>>
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Found it.

The answer to that guy on here's prayers.
>>
>>2031526
Are you willing to spend a couple grand on cast iron straight edges, a surface plate and scraper blades? The means to sharpen them? Then after all that learn to scrape and finally even rough the surface up, epoxy down turcite and then scrape that in? Some assorted indicators and stuff too for actually checking your work.

Just sell it man.
>>
how do they make those spring loaded detents in socket handles? it's a blind hole with a ball and a spring in it but I don't see how they get the shit inside without it just falling out.
>>
>>2031544
No, I definitely don't want to get into restoring the ways by hand. Even though I have a surface plate, this task feels way above my current level. In any case, I was thinking more along the lines of replacing worn parts with parts from donor machine - I see them come up for sale every once in a while. But yeah, I see the point - it is easier to just replace it...
>>
>>2031550
>>
>>2031550
>drill hole
>place spring in hole
>place ball on top of spring
>peen sides of hole over so that ball stays in place
>>
Is it a bad practice if I have a 45mm x 14mm die to use a 45mm x 18mm die holder? Seems like a retarded quesiton and I suppose the answer is no but I'd rather ask.
>>
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>>2031072
>enjoying what you do for a living is not an unattainable fantasy.

Keep telling yourself that anon.
The odds are so far against you its not funny, and burnout happens no matter what you do.
>>
Is a gedore T40 Torx Long 1/2" bit good for diesel injectors?
>>
>>2032439
probably
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TYPN6DLRB8
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TYPN6DLRB8

giant material order hopefully on the way, might not be here until tomorrow or the next day. fucking snow
>>
>>2032723
fucking gay, tomorrow
>>
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>>2032580

Telling it? I'm living it. Maybe you kill yourself if you're suffering so much.
>>
https://www.xometry.com/blog/definitive-guide-10-different-types-thread-taps/

all about taps from xometry
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRPi1sFjHio
woah that's pretty cool, faster tapping
>>
>>2032984
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbfEVtA7JMg
>>
>>2033051

n.e.w.



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