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Delta Hotbox Edition
Old thread: >>1999156
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.
>>
first for tree supports
>>
>>2001543
first for my shithole 70% tax country surfing down the right slope of the Laffer curve
>>
>>2001543
I think I missed something last thread. What's the thing with tree supports and Enders? I'm having no problem with Cura tree supports on my Ender 3. ELI5?
>>
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>>2001532
if i can get a used WanHao Duplicator I3 plus for less than $100, should i get it?
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>>2001550
~$60
>>
>>2001510
are you confused? the mini me is no v6 shroud.
i use the original sturdy clip on with different 40mm adapter pieces i design myself and compare performance.
So far the stock 30mm was 2° cooler than the best performing adapter
>>
>>2001565
The question was more in general than particularly about the V6
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>>2001510
>>2001565
the satsana looks horrible btw. It restricts the duct surface area to like 1/2 the fan with very steep lines and widens after that again
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>>2001550
Buy it for the frame, rip the electronics out. Maybe the motors can survive.
>>
>>2001502
>>2001505
>you don't really want to use those springy threaded rod adaptor thingies
why not? do they have a short lifespan or something? I really like the idea of having a little miniature 'universal' joint in the z height assembly. I don't wanna fuck up the stepper motor's bearings if the two axes aren't exactly aligned and it causes binding.
>>
Does anyone know a lightweight 3D modeling program? I tried using Fusion 360 and it was very slow. Sometimes it would freeze and then I would have to force close it. The PC I'm using it on has an old ass Athlon II X2 @ 2.7ghz with 6gb ram and 2gb vram if that matters.
>>
>>2001639
By their nature 3D suites need a decent chunk of RAM. I ran Solidworks 2017 on Windows 7 and 4gb of RAM for a while, it wasn't happy but it worked.
>>
>>2001639
openscad 2015 works fine on my printer running computer which is half the computer of yours(1ghz, 3gB). Final rendering is a bit slow is all
>>
>>2001639
One place I worked at ~5 years ago was using one of those micro PC's to surprisingly good results.
>>
>>2001695
with SW*
>>
Can Prusa slicer be used with other printers, specifically a delta? I want to iron.
>>
>>2001652
I was running autocad13 on a 386dx 2 66 in 96, 3d software doesn't HAVE to be intensive.
>>
>try to remove nozzle
>pliers slip and rip the thermistor wire
Ok I can probably reattach that...
>take the heat block/cartridge out for better grip
>heat block wire snaps
I can solder that too I guess...
>nozzle shears off inside the cartridge
ONE NOTHING WRONG WITH ME
>>
>>2001709
That's why you remove nozzles with the printer up to temperature.
>>
Would a basic room fan pointed right at the printer be able to sufficiently replace a hot end fan?

Hot end fan on my ender 3 broke just as i began a print of the hero me shroud, creality is being a nigger about replacing the fan that broke a week after purchase, and I'd rather avoid buying another 40x10 and soldering it in just to immediately replace it again
>>
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How do I make a side hustle/money using my 3d printer?
>>
>>2001420
You've been testing with the V6 with stock setup? I thought the V6 needed an adapter to be mounted on the Ender 3. I just want to be able to see the nozzle while it prints. I guess I could design something but it seems kind of complex for a first timer.
>>
>>2001546

There's nothing wrong with tree supports. I think the issue last thread was that the larger moon models were so extremely detailed that the method for generation of tree supports wasn't really able to hack it. An extreme situation.
>>
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>>2001712
Not that dude but holy shit how much more are you going to spout this bullshit? 0 degrees or 260 degrees it's all the same, nozzles can still break in the heater block. It all depends on your particular nozzles.
Creality nozzles stick in there real well after 2-3 prints. Chinkshits for the stock Creality hotend don't get stuck.
I got a Volcano clone from Trianglelab and the nozzles for that one don't get stuck either. V6 clone with Trianglelab nozzles doesn't get stuck but chinkshit V6 nozzles do.
>>
>>2001720
1. have 3D printer
2. print fancy filament
3. ???
4. profit

printing out filament is a little known unexploited ability of 3D printers.
>>
>>2001720
make things
>>
>>2001740
Why would I print filament instead of just cutting a length of it off my spool?
>>
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Hey guys does anyone have experience with these cheap SLA printers. I've used the formlabs one but it is way out of my price range. I didn't know they made ones this cheap. Are they worth it?
>>
>>2001740
Where do you find the 1.75mm or bigger nozzle?
>>
>>2001701
You can iron in Cura
>>
>>2001703
Dumb solids are dumb.
>>
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>>2001735
>I thought the V6 needed an adapter
goddamit, this is /diy/
a slotted piece of aluminium, with 2 m3 threads and a 12mm hole.
Mounted in the lower center of the carriage for unrestricted airflow backwards
i doesnt need much, just because you have a printer doesnt mean everything has to be printed

>want to be able to see the nozzle while it prints
why?
>>2001746
>what is Die swell
>>
>>2001744
fancy you gutter nigger, you make FANCY filament, like two color or short burst rainbow
>>
>>2001748
spoonfeed me anon
>>
>>2001756
So you want me to manually change filaments to print like 1m of that fancy crap? Yeah, no thanks.
Put more thought into it and try again
>>
>>2001745
What's your use-case? Printers like the LD-002 or the Mars are MSLA, rather than SLA. They use an LCD screen to mask off a UV light from where you don't want resin to cure, rather than using a mirror to shine light where you do want resin to cure. The main upshot of that is SLA can do a curve to a finer resolution than an MSLA, but something like the Mars has a 2K screen, it's not like you're going to notice the difference.
>>
>>2001758
THIS IS WHY YOUR ARE POOR FAGGOT
>>
>>2001745
I'm looking into the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k myself.
Is there any reason I shouldn't just go for it?
>>
>>2001759
I want it for printing small things with fine details. I know how much more detailed and SLA can be than my FDM printer. So you are saying that this can't achieve as high resolution as an SLA but for non-professional uses it's probably close enough?
>>
>>2001761
Anon, I didn't buy an automated tool to babysit it and change filaments manually and all that crap.
Untill I can afford to build a Jubilee or other toolchanger based system I'm taking the hit and printing with one material only.
>>
>>2001757
Cura has a search bar. Write "iron" and the relevant settings will pop up.
I'd strongly recommend you just set it so that it shows you ALL settings, put your mouse cursor on each setting and reading the little blurb. Do that for all the settings and you'll have a much better handle on how it all works and what settings to use for desired results.
>>
>>2001765
MSLA is still much much more finely detailed than FDM. SLA is technically "higher resolution" in that it has no easily definable upper limit on its resolution. But you won;t notice the difference between SLA and MSLA without a microscope.
>>
>>2001773
ok then I think I might go for it then. Thanks for the advice.
>>
>>2001739
Without getting into the different expansion coefficients of brass and steel, the simple fact of plastic not acting as loc-tite really helps alot. Cold plastic can basically act as a molded rivet inside the nozzle and hotend, which will put even more unneeded stress on the soft brass nozzle if you try to remove it.

I wasn't aware this was controversial knowledge.
>>
>>2001739
>0 degrees or 260 degrees it's all the same
No, no it's not. All that gunked up filament makes a pretty effective adhesive if it's coating the threads of the nozzle. And a new nozzle should never be screwed in when the hot end is cold either.
If you insist otherwise then you really don't print all that regularly.
>>
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>>2001739
The other two anons explained why you're wrong already, I just wanted to call you a retard too
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Tuned my linear advance K value using the calibration pattern on the marlin site, and I just noticed these gaps which I assume are related at the ends of longish straight bits of perimeter.
Is this a sign that K is too high, or too low?
Am I just retarded and this is nothing to worry about?
>>
>>2001752
I have some old heatsinks from cpus, maybe I can make something that would work. Or so you mean like aluminum bar stock?
I want to be able to see the nozzle so I know if it's fucking up on the first few layers. I really like to watch it print and listen to it's music.
>>
>>2001759
Does MSLA have any benefits over SLA? I think I saw someone in a previous thread say that due to the masking behavior, the X/Y dimensions of a print have no impact on print time, meaning printing 10+ copies of a model is just as fast as printing one.
>>
>>2001532
Hey moon anon from the previous thread, how do I print the moon without the inside filling up with supports?
>>
>>2001841
>I want to be able to see the nozzle so I know if it's fucking up on the first few layers.
Why not just squat so that you're low enough to see under the fan/hotend assembly, when you want to look?
Is your printer on the floor or something?
>>
Is there any conceivable benefit to buying/using steel nozzles if I'm printing pla almost exclusively
>>
>>2001863
If it's printing layer 1-5 and I get down low to look at it, I'm pretty much only looking at it straight on and can't see it's full movement. I don't entirely trust it not to fuck up (with good reason as all of my prints in the last 24hrs have failed) so I need to make sure it's doing good before I walk away. Seems like the vast majority of cooIing systems are big and bulky and really block the view. I've only tried out the one that comes on the Ender 3 but I really don't like the design.
>>
>>2001891
fancy pla thats a bit more abrasive(glow, wood, other additives that might be somewhat abrasive)
>>
>>2001896
do you print everything smaller than your hot end? you know when the head moves off one part of the print you can see if that part is fucking up/fucked up and then you wait 2 seconds and you can see the other part...
>>
>>2001639
>Does anyone know a lightweight 3D modeling program? I tried using Fusion 360 and it was very slow. Sometimes it would freeze and then I would have to force close it. The PC I'm using it on has an old ass Athlon II X2 @ 2.7ghz with 6gb ram and 2gb vram if that matters.
You likely need a CAD program that doesn't track history like fusion does. It's incredibly useful to fix previous changes and errors but it does require juice. Speaking of which, I do think you can turn that off in Fusion
>>
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I got contacted by an ali seller that I had bought some dual axis concentric encoders from who wanted to know where I had gotten knobs for it. I hadn't but decided to make some and share with the seller and anyone else interested

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4708038
>>
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>>2001908

I also designed this to hold some crimp tools. After measuring them i put them back on the magnetic rails where they hang temporary and one of them slipped and almost broke my work laptop
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>>2001908
sounds odd
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>>2001918
I have to admit I was a bit perplexed when I got contacted, but decided it was a good project to do the next day
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>>2001905
>I do think you can turn that off in Fusion
Yes
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>>2001908
>>2001919
>doing free work for chinamen

just kidding, sounds like fun
>>
>>2001862
not him but choose touching buildplate in support options
>>
>>2001908
this makes my pee pee hard with nostalgia
>>
Do you guys post makes to thingiverse? Do you post remixes? That site is such as shitfest, I'm trying to post my first remix, and you know, give back a little and the fucking search under "this is a remix" is borken. grrr.
>>
>>2001953
>Do you guys post makes to thingiverse?
Nah. The most I've ever done was remake a fucked up model of solder fingers for an anon here. It's alot comfier doing it in a smaller community like these generals.
>>
what was that list a few threads back for filament sales?
>>2001719
buy a noctua
>>
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>>2001532
How do I remove a forced allen screw. I need to retire one of those that attach the cover of the hotend to the frame in the CR10S because I want to take out the nozzle to see if it's properly clean but I just can't because I cannot separate the damn cover piece.
Also I've ran into so many failed tries to do a first time print that at this point idk if the problem is the leveling, the extruder, the printer itself or what
>>
>>2001977
Try an Allen key
>>
>>2001903
I've been printing a lot of tiny stuff. Last thing I tried to print was a 10mm long lion but it failed on the base layer. I think my hotend is clogged so I ordered a new one, along with better tubing and more nozzles. I won't be able to install the hotend until the weekend, but hopefully I can get the rest working tonight so I can print my mini lion.
>>
>>2001987
Emphasis on forced, or eroded or whatever. That's why I can't do it with the Allen key, which worked for the other screw
Worst part is that I never touched this one and yet I cannot take it out because the key won't just hold it.
>>
>>2001996
You might be using the wrong size then. If not, you can try a screw extractor or a left handed drill bit. Those operate on the same principle. You could cut a slot in to it and use a flathead screwdriver, too. As a final resort, you drill out the screw.
>>
>>2001996
I've always had good luck tapping in a torx bit one size larger into a stripped out hex bolt.
>>
>>2001919
But like honestly that is really odd, like wtf.
>>
>>2001977
pics? there are lots of options including trying a star-hex, going slightly bigger (metric -> SAE or vice versa) and pounding key in, cutting a slot to use a flat blade, gripping the outside with vice grips, etc. also clean up your hole before jamming tools in it.
>>
What kind of material can I put between my V6 hotend and my PLA frame to help keep it from melting? Aluminum tape? Some type of insulation piece? I know it should be printed in a better plastic but I'm not there yet. The only thing I'd really be worried about would be if the hotend would still be level with some extra material in there. Or should I just not worry about it? I'd be using the stock fans.
>pic related
>>
>>2001963
go back
>>
>>2002012
Won't the air gap and heatbreak fan be enough to keep it cool?
>>
>>2002033
I have no idea. I'm not even sure how hot it gets above the heat break. I just don't want it to melt and fuck everything up.
>>
>>2002012
Kapton tape. And reprint it in PETg as soon as possible.
>>
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>>2001861
Yeah, that's true. Curing in MSLA is essentially putting the inverse image of the layer on your LCD screen, so that the pattern you want to print is clear and everything else is blacked out, then shining a UV light up through it. The UV passes through the pixels that have been left clear, allowing it to cure 1 layer thickness of resin there between the screen and the build plate, but it's blocked everywhere else, so the resin doesn't set elsewhere. Because the UV light is going to be shining on the whole screen anyway it doesn't matter whether you have 1 clear area or 10, it's still just going to be one exposure, usually 8 seconds per layer.
>>
>buy chink clone v6
>inside of box literally smells like shit

Did the chinaman boxing this thing wipe his hands with his ass and put it in the box? I had to Lysol the box and then transfer the contents out and throw it outside because it stunk so bad.
>>
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To anyone considering an Ender 3s from Canada Computers, it's a horrible idea. Everything tightened like fuck to the point all the rubber rollers had a small divot that was noticable when running, belts tightened to piss, nozzle must have been put in with an impact, and my god is this a nightmare.
I have 2 Ender 3 Pro v2s and wanted to add to my farm so figured some cheap ones would help, and they've both been a fucking nightmare to the point I'm probably going to turn them into parts for something else my god. Can't get anything to stick to the bed no matter how well I clean it, tried a glass bed from one of my others, same shit, set nozzle height and it just fucking wanders up or down as it sees fit.
The Anycubic Chiron gave me less trouble than these 2 cunts.
>>
>>2002011
>clean up your hole before jamming tools in it.
Wise words.

>>2002090
For that matter, what are the best places for a Burger to snag a V2 right now? Assume I don't mind waiting.
>>
>>2002090
Should have bought a Prusa Mini
>>
>>2002094
funny way to spell anycubic megazero 2.0
>>
>>2002095
>>2002094
>>2002092
For a burger? No idea. I have a little Chinaman that hooks me up.
I just want to keep printing, I have so many orders I can't keep up and these 2 printers being shit bags really fucked me over. I can't afford to buy another pro v2 right now so I'll have to hump along until I can. Canada Computers won't take these back.
>>
>>2002098
>Canada Computers
The quality of CC's varies wildly depending on location.
>>
>>2002098
Should have bought prusa minis for your print farm.
This is what you get for believing the lies and buying cheap garbage.
You get what you pay for is something the Chinese very much observe.
>>
>>2002101
>bought
>for your print farm

shouldn't you just print printers until you have nowhere to put the printers? a la prusa?
>>
>>2002119
You're one networked Raspberry Pi away from Skynet, friend. Tread lightly.
>>
>>2002123
>Alphabet boys hack your print farm to make DIAS
>Plan is to kick open his door as soon as the print is done
>Anon was too drunk the night before so he didn't bother to remove the 8" dragon dildo from the print bed
>Crashes the machine and suddenly the speckled, neon green glow in the dark PLA catches fire
>Police kick in the door only to introduce a bunch of oxygen to the fire
>Explosion of flames takes down the two closest to the door
>>
>>2002049
When I reprint it, should I also put the tape on it or no?
>>
>>2002090
the wheels being tightened too much is definitely on them, but everything i've read/seen seems to indicate belts can never (within reason) be too tight.
>>
>>2002129
>anon gets shot for killing two officers
>anon is forever branded a cop killer
>feds high five on a job well done
>>
>>2002170
>Anon did not have a dog, but the government buys him one and then shoots it, free of charge
>"Two hero law enforcement agents killed in brutal firefight involving Dragon's Breath machine gun ammunition."
>>
>>2002089
Everything from china smells like diesel and coal because nobody cares about air quality over there
>>
>>2002161
Due to chink tolerance belt and puley profile seldom match 100%
If you tighten them more than needed this transfers the belt ripple as optical artefact in the print perimeter.
Overtightened as in streched reduces the bearing lifetime on the stepper significant and increases drag on the axis
>>
>>2001720
not necessarily printed, but design nerf blasters and sell the hardware to build them while keeping files accessible/open source
>>2001953
github blows thingi out of the water for file hosting
>>
>>2002211
>github blows thingi out of the water for file hosting
obviously, but i imagine most people post there because its a community
>>
>>2001808
Depends on which way the nozzle was going.
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>>2002011
Here is a pic of the two screws of the cover part. They are the same type of screw as it an be seen on the pic, but the same allen key doesn't work for the other one and no matter what it's either unscrewing very slowly if it is even unscrewing at all.
I'll try to see into some of the solutions you all gave me, thanks.
>>
>>2002233
Also
>clean the whole before jamming tools in
but it too damn small like a couple of mm or something like that
>>
SLA printers, are DMD printers better or LCD printers?
>>
>>2001908
Does that encoder have a push button?
>>
>>2002293
>Does that encoder have a push button?
it does, upper encoder can be pushed
>>
>>2002295
Nice.
Since they're not that cheap, I'm thinking of a multi function box where pressing a button cycles the mode that makes the encoder output appear to the computer as a different encoder.
That way you could for adjust the first 2 digits on a transponder in one mode, press a button and adjust the second 2 digits, press a button again and adjust the radios, press the button again and adjust heading and altitude on an MCP, press it again and adjust speed and vertical speed and so on.
>>
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Got all the parts of the 6x12 panoramic camera printed and assembled. Now im just waiting for my Rodenstock 90mm 6.8 lens and the helical to arrive. so fucking excited.
>>
>>2002130
You don't need to, but it helps, so if you already have it you can get real posh.
>>
>>2002318
Congrats! Looks pretty! Don't forget to sand and paint the frame to help make it lightproof.
>>
>>2002236
Use an old toothbrush
>>
>>2002233
Use a drop of vinyl glue or sealant to increase grip, wait until firm but not completely dry, push real firm against the screw while unscrewing. If on inspection you find the unscrewed screw is screwed, screw it and screw another screw.
>>
>>2002322
Yeah Im definitely gonna paint the insides matte black and add some felt light seals
>>
>>2002331
F A N C Y
>>
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>one spool of PLA I have needs to be lubed
>another one doesn't and has bedadhesion problems since
what kind of oil do you use for filament lubing? so far I'm using sunflower oil and its alright. I coated the inside of the heatbrake with ptfe-spray but it had little to no effeft.
>>
>>2002336
Why would you lube filament?
>>
>>2002336
I've never put anything on any of my filament.
What brand are you using?
>>
>>2002336
Ive always just used regular old canola

>>2002338
It helps keep your nozzles from wearing and clogging among other things.
>>
I'm looking to 3D print a knob that, if turned the wrong direction, breaks off to prevent damage to the mechanism it cranks. Any ideas? I'm dealing with profoundly stupid and impatient people here. Thanks in advance.
>>
>>2002343
How much resistance does the mechanism itself provide?
What if you made the outside of the knob connect to the center of the knob via some kind of ratcheting mechanism, so that the knob would just spin if they tried to turn it the wrong way?
>>
>>2002343
One way slip clutch, have the crank rotate freely and engage the shaft over a sawtoothed pressureplate on its backside. A coaxial spring provides the engagement
>>
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>>2002343
>>2002355
For that matter, if you wanted to skip designing such a mechanism for 3D printing yourself, you could just buy a finger ratchet for $10 and make an adapter between it and the device instead.
Although you'd probably have to break it somehow to ensure it remains stuck in one direction.
>>
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>>2002343
u get me?
So if you turn it one way,t he flat face nagegs with the flat face, the catch on the slanted part of the socket sticks in the little hole on the handle to keep it together. If you turn it the other way, there's just enough tolerance to allow the bump on the slanted part to push in the catch keeping the handle together, so the handle just tweests off.

Of course then the question is: why does it have to break off, why not just use a ratchet
>>
>>2002343
This query may guide you:
https://thingiverse.com/search?q=ratchet+knob
An example:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1049884
>>
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>>2001763
I have one and I love mine.
You should be more on the crafty side to use it, the buildplate comes unsanded, so it's probably the most consumer unfriendly resin printer by default.
It doesn't have an air filter (which are a meme anywqys) and the stepper motor and fan are on the loud side.
Compared to other printers I have not once experienced any noticeable layer misalignments.
People complaining about it being harder to operate are retards who just want to push a button and don't think about anything else, I appreciate the industrial minimalism and focus on quality components that matter instwad of having fancy anodized colorful metal parts which are a waste of production cost.
Pic related is printed on my PSM4k at 0.5mm layer height and the quality even at larger layer heights like that is incredible.
>>
>>2002398
>air filter (which are a meme anywqys)
Air filters are 100% not memes. This is itself a meme spouted by non-filterhavers.
>>
>>2002422
No, it really is. The machine can run just fine without filtered air. It's not a car engine.
>>
>>2002430
?
It filters the air going out, not going in
>>
>>2002432
Then it's even more pointless
>>
>>2002432
>>2002422
The fumes just go through the filter like it's nothing, it's a cheap meme chinks implement to give their customers a false sense of security, it's 100% a meme.
Ever noticed how only cheapshit chink printers have filters but not the expensive ones like Formlabs printers?
You need proper air ventilation, ideally an air exhaust tube out the window, everything else is a meme.
>>
>>2002437
It's not a meme
You can smell the fucking fumes mate, take off the hood, fume smell, put on the hood, no fume smell. Simple as, anyone who disagrees either never had a filter or only had shitty ones.
>>
>>2002094
>>2002119
>Should have bought a Prusa Mini
And then wait ___ number of weeks for it to ship. The long lead time for their printers is one of the primary reasons I never seriously contemplated adding them to my print farm.
>>
>>2002440
I disagree because if you're breathing the same air as your printer, be it FDM or SLA, you're a certified retard. It's the crayon eating of the 3D printing world.
Needing a filter pretty much tells me you keep it in your house.
>>
>>2002447
There are 49 posters in this thread and I guarantee you 45 of them keep their printers in their houses. Not everyone has a dedicated shed or workshop.
>>
>>2002447
>f you're breathing the same air as your printer, be it FDM or SLA
But I'm not. Because it gets filtered, though the filter
>>
>>2002453
unless it's an activated carbon filter, you're still breathing in all the fumes. Either you've become noseblind to the smell or you just have a shit sense of smell to begin with. But they're still there.
>>
>>2002447
but hot PLA smells good
>>
>>2002340
>>2002336
don't fucking lube your filament baka
>>
>>2002447
im not advocating its healthy, but cooking without a fume hood or smoke from a campfire is likely thousand times more dirty than a fdm printer, let alone being a smoker.
Seasoned cast iron gasses off VOCs, teflon pans gass of toxic flour compounds

Do you have softwood in your bedroom? they gass off terpene compounds toxic to humans
>>
File deleted.
>>2002454
well fucking obviously
>>
>>2002343

>>2002355
>>2002361
>>2002362
>>2002379
>>2002387
Thanks for the replies. It's a knob for a toaster oven. My grandmother's home aides keep forcing the toaster off by cranking the knob against the clockwork mechanism instead of just opening the door and letting the mechanical timer run out. Now I have to replace it and it was hard to get the replacement part. I had to print a new knob because the shaft is different, so I may as well design something that will save my weekends from appliance repair. I started with a knob that has a slope that prevents a good grip if you try to turn it the wrong way but gives you a good surface the right way.

I'm going to use this knob in the short term, but thanks to your posts I have an idea for a compact, 3 piece ratchet - one piece that has the ratchet, that attaches to the shaft, which inserts into a cup with the flexible drive "fingers", and a cover that closes the whole thing up. I'm working in a limited space so we'll see how it works out.

Thank you.
>>
>>2002458
>>
>>2002447
I keep my printer in my bedroom.
PLA's fine anyway.
>>
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>>2002461
Here's the knob, about 1.25" diameter, .6" deep.
>>
>>2002462
>resin odor
kinda funny how they don't just say resin fumes, innit?
>>
>>2002462
Odor isn't fumes m8.
Keep inhaling bro.
>>
>>2002461
>My grandmother's home aides keep forcing the toaster off by cranking the knob against the clockwork mechanism instead of just opening the door and letting the mechanical timer run out.
There's no way to shut it off immediately without damaging it? How old is the toaster oven?
If it really is causing damage then your approach is warranted, but it sounds like a dumb mechanism to begin with.
>>
>>2002466
>>2002465
you think the activated carbon is selectively filtering out just the gases that smell?
>>
>>2002449
Aren't 3D printers technically not supposed to be left unsupervised while printing anyway, since they're potential fire hazards?
>>
>>2002472
>since they're potential fire hazards?
They're only a fire hazard if
1. The power supply is complete garbage
2. You store items near them with a flashpoint that's in the save range as the nozzle temp
3. You like to push or dick around with the mainboard while it's plugged in. Like that one Anon here that posted of WEBM of him accidentally grounding his to a standoff.

I have 9 printers that run 18 hours a day and have been running that way for 3 years now. They all have Delta or Meanwell branded power supplies. They're in a dedicated closet isolated from the rest of the house and kept away from pets and children.
>>
>>2002472
That's more FDM than MSLA. The only sort-of fire risk on an MSLA printer is the UV LED array, and even so it's only 40 watts, it's not producing a huge amount of heat. Whereas obviously on an FDM printer you've got your hot end running somewhere between 200 and 400 degrees C
>>
>>2002471
Why would they specifically mention odor and not fumes?
>>
>>2002476
Meanwell are good? I thought they had a bad rep
>>
>>2002479
Because they're trying to make it a selling point and it's easier to convince a customer that something smells bad than it is to convince them that something is unhealthy?
>>
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>>2002480
>I thought they had a bad rep
They might get bad results sometimes, but they mean well.
>>
>>2002482
kek. Keep doing those mental gymnastics, anon. If it really filtered the fumes(which can be the same particle size as the air around it) they'd have mentioned it next to odor.

Fact is they're lying by omission and that entire statement can be judged using occam's razor.
>>
>>2002479
Because they're chinky chinamen, not to mention the fact that if you state something is a safety precaution there's a whole stack of standards you have to meet, not to mention you could be liable.
Like an activated carbon filter is not a sophisticated system, it's just carbon with massive surface area adsorbing whatever contaminants pass through it. How is it you think it's filtering only the parts that smell bad and leaving the parts that are harmful.
>>
>>2002487
>>2002491
Instead of guessing like a bunch of mongoloids, why don't you just look up if activated carbon or whatever they are can properly filter out fumes using scientific data
>>
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>>2002484
CARLOS
>>
>>2002493
nah I already know I'm right
these non-filterhavers are just coping
>>
>>2002467
You can shut it off by leaving the door open, which interrupts the electrical connection. It's not brand new but it's still fine and most importantly, she's a hundred years old and has a hard time learning new anything, let alone appliances. I'd like to not have to repair or replace the appliance. Even if I bought a new one, the aides would beat that one to death in a month in spite of me.

The mechanism being wound up by the knob is a basically a mechanical relay operated by an egg timer. Tick-tock and all. If you try to force this mechanism to run out faster by horsing it counter-clockwise, it first broke the OEM knob off, then I 3D printed a replacement knob which was too strong to break, and the main spring ended up getting weakened and stuck the relay in the "on" state. That's more dangerous than anything else. I thought to put a DIY digital timer and relay in there but I don't want to pull up to her house and find out she burned up with it.
>>
>>2002493
Those printers have pretty tiny carbon filters, you'd have to change the carbon inside on a regular basis.
How often do you change the carbon?
>>
>>2002503
Every day.
>>
>>2002503
I'm changing it right now
Maybe I'll change it again afterwards, just for a laugh
>>
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>>2002505
>>2002513
Cool, I don't believe you but whatever bud.
Pic related is a filter that would actually work. Notice the size difference between that and the tiny little box inside the average printer?
>>
>>2002517
>that would actually work
>axial fan
lol nope
>>
>>2002518
All resin printers have axial fans.
What's the problem here?
>>
>>2002233
hopefully it's too late but also make sure your hex is seated fully, if the hex wasn't inserted and stripped the rim, a flake could bend into the well and make it seem like you can't put hex in deeper, but sometimes it's just a matter of seating it all the way to get a grip.
>>
>>2002336
>>2002338
>>2002339
>>2002340
>>2002456
>2021
>lubing your filament
baka indeed
>>
>>2002503
>>2002505
>>2002513
you can't just change carbon, it has to want to change
>>
>>2002534
The carbon may have internalized the status quo as normal. Somebody could gently guide the carbon into thinking about the help that it could do to change.
>>
>>2002398
>Massive scalloping on the back and crest
That picture is a perfect example of how the difference between good and bad anti-aliasing is much more important than the difference between 2K and 4K
>>
>>2002463
https://chemicalinsights.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Characterization-of-particle-emissions-from-consumer-fused-deposition-modeling-3D-printers.pdf
>>
I want to print a clear box. Is there a FDM filament that prints clear? Or am I going to need to make a frame out of white or some other color and then add panes of plexiglass to they?
>>
>>2002563
>Is there a FDM filament that prints clear?
Not really.
>Or am I going to need to make a frame out of white or some other color and then add panes of plexiglass to they?
Yes.
>>
>>2002318
Your design or is it uploaded? I actually have a rodenstock laying around, with no body... could be interesting...
>>
>>2002563
how clear? You can get translucent but not something you could read text through probably.
>>
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First print with wood filament. Everything is pretty nice except the bottoms are kind of ragged (far right). Made a logistics error when I dumped 20 some cans of various old stain from woodworking projects so now I have none.
>>
>>2002538
It's printed without anti-aliasing, I updated Chitubox before printing and didn't bother activating it, it's just a test print of my sculpt.
It's also roughly 4mm large (without supports) and I can't see the lines with my bare eye.
>>
>>2002089
might have actually been a vietcong trap designed to cause infection
>>
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>>2002595
>>2002538
Here is my previous version of the model printed on three different printers with anti-aliasing activated, I made that comparision for /tg/ a few months ago.
>>
>>2002343
a screw/bolt
>>
>>2002461
sounds like you're way over thinking it. ever pull apart a pill bottle child proof cap? just have teeth interlocking one way and slip the other. leave out the press down function.
>>
>>2002606
>leave out the press down function
>>2002461
Nono, be truly devilish, keep the press-down required
>>
>>2002567
Ok, thanks for the info.

>>2002574
Yeah clear enough to read through. I guess it's too bad they haven't figured out how to print plexiglass yet.
>>
>>2002590
Are you going to cast that?
>>
>>2002570
its a design I purchased from Etsy. Its called the Kraken 6x12. it was $30. The design is actually really well done. it comes with like 100 different lens cone lengths to fit all sorts of focal lengths.
>>
>spend some time tuning extruder
>calculate new e step value
>100
Why even bother going through tuning the shit if the value is the normal and expected value? It actually came out to 100.7 but that's pro ably because I was using an inch caliper and converting to mm.
>>
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>>2002619
I wasn't, no.

>>2002618
Yeah, that technology won't be possible until like 2005
>>
>>2002669
yes, why would you even go through the trouble if you're not even going to do it right?
>>
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Going to have to print sturdier(thicker) brackets for the Y rails, but I'm happy with how the Torch height bracket turned out. Plenty stiff for what it's going to be used for.
>>
>>2002713
Why the fuck is it so ugly.
Why the fuck is it so pretty.
Congrats anon!
>>
>>2002719
Well I haven't gotten around to painting it yet so... Thanks, I guess?
>>
>>2002598
Again there's no way the anti-aliasing on that mars can be working properly, from a slicer that has AA enabled and properly calibrated such a result is simply impossible.
>>
>>2002727
Leave it as it is. It's a song to liberty. I love it.
>>
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My filament runout sensor arrived ($1.50 from china).
Does anyone know how to install this directly onto Raspberry Pi (I run OctoPrint) so I can avoid tapping one of the pins on Ender 3?
>>
looking to buy a printer, is it worth shelling out double the price for a prusa mini or should I just buy an ender 3? All the stuff I've read online says its a lot easier to work with but I want to hear your guys' opinion.
>>
>>2002736
just buy Ender 3 and learn how to use it and then upgrade parts you need or really want.
most of the "gucci" printers come with mediocre parts or parts you won't need or use.
>>
>>2002545
It says it emits particles, it doesn't say they're dangerous.
>>
What does /3dpg/ think of the SPACE 3D printer?
>>
>>2002545
I used to work at an injection molding place that had 4 machines and they used to make medical parts/housings from ABS. we had emissions 100x higher than what your shitty 3D printer can produce and no one ever complained. Note even OSHA cares since it's a non-issue.
>>
i want to add rgb led strips to my 3d printer enclosure to work with octopie. basically want the leds to be one color while it’s printing and another color when it’s done etc. i’m pretty retarded. what do i need to make this work? just run jumpers from the strip to the gpio pins on the raspberry pi?
>>
>>2002763
>>>/g/
>>
>>2002767
they are just going to tell me to install gentoo and compile my own raspberry pi
>>
>>2002769
Sorry
>>>/v/
>>
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>>2002771
>>
I am not a smart man

If I connect my ender directly to my pc and print that way instead of dicking with sd cards, will the printer fuck up if I put the pc to sleep or vidya
>>
>>2002763
You need transistors to control a bare RGB strip with your Pi.
Unless you're talking about one of those strips where every LED can have different individually.
>>
>>2002776
*different color
>>
>>2002776
just a regular rgb strip. they don’t need to be addressable
>>
>>2002774
>sleep
yes
>vidya
no
>>
>>2002781
is octoprint/whatever the only option if I don't want to deal with sd cards then
>>
>>2001739
>>2001712
I've literally never removed a nozzle without heating up the hotend to at least 150c. I've just thought this was common sense, it's not like I explicitly read somewhere that it's required. Do people actually try to remove a nozzle from a hotend that are both completely filled with solid plastic?
>>
>>2001720
The easiest way is to do commission based. People come to you with what they want printed, and you print it and charge them based on filament cost, machine cost and other related costs including your labor to clean the print. More money is involved in commissioning 3D models. Just remember that 3D printers are only good for one offs, and repeatedly printing the same part isn't cost effective compared to injection molding.
>>
>>2002783
Yes. Buy a raspi and don't be stingy, even I in my shithole 70% tax country surfing down the right slope of the Laffer curve got one.
>>
>>2001891
No, stainless has terrible conductivity for heat and sucks as a nozzle. It's only benefit is that it's harder than brass, so it lasts longer for exotic materials like carbon fiber filled PLA. Never use a stainless steel nozzle unless you plan on printing with an exotic filled material. Even then you can get away with small prints without using one.
>>
>>2001908
You realize the seller is literally going to just steal your model turn around and sell it, right? That's the standard business practice in China.
>>
>>2001953
I had bought some G.Skill ram which had a colored plastic insert in the fins, and I hated the color. After an hour of trying to first find a model, and then trying to find someplace that just sells different colors, I ended up making my own model. I decided to post it because of the amount of forum posts I found asking for the same thing. Why would I deny humanity my creation when there was a need for it? It was the first and so far last thing I've ever uploaded to Thingiverse.
>>
>>2002776
>>2002763
You'll probably want to run a relay from the pi to the LEDs because they'll probably end up causing too much draw through the pi itself.

Thankfully relays are fairly cheap and very easy to wire.
>>
>>2002472
ovens are potential fire hazards, but do you sit in your kitchen watching it for three hours while the ham is cooking?
>>
>>2002757
That kind of printer wouldn't work in microgravity, though.
>>
>>2002774
>>2002781
printing from pc is a bad idea, it can cause the print to lag, especially if your pc is busy or old. always print from sd card
>>
>>2002211
>not necessarily printed, but design nerf blasters and sell the hardware to build them while keeping files accessible/open source
Nerf Anon here.
I make most of my money off the hardware. The printing is done at a narrower margin as it just facilitates selling the hardware. I sell at a relatively low price per print hour, but that's because all of the parts are already optimized for printing. So the failure rate is really low, and everything is already sliced and ready-to-print.
>>
>>2002808
Ovens tend to comply with fairly stringent safety regulations though.
>>
>>2002813
I always print from an old 1ghz laptop.
Print pauses when the charger kicks on, so I just unplug it and have no problems.
Just keep the USB cable as short as possible and away from the motors
>>
>>2001720
I've made some decent money printing custom lithophane nightlights, enough to pay for the printer a couple times over.
>>
>>2002211
>not necessarily printed, but design nerf blasters and sell the hardware to build them
>>2002819
>The printing is done at a narrower margin as it just facilitates selling the hardware

What exactly is meant by "hardware" in this context?
How do people build the custom blasters you design if not with 3D-printed parts?
>>
>>2002846
bolts, air tubes, springs etc
it's not hard to figure out
>>
>>2002850
But why do they have to get that from you? Couldn't they just get those parts at any hardware store?
>>
>>2002756
UFP can plug your alveoli. If you've got a ton going at once and you're exposed 24/7, it could be an issue. I'll admit that cooking your bowden tube is more likely, though.
>>
>>2002859
people pay for convenience
what's easier, sourcing all of the parts, or just buying a complete kit with everything you need? it's also cheaper to buy a box of 100 springs than it is to just buy a single spring, so there's profit margin also by buying in bulk.
>>
>>2002859
I've met people who can't boil water, man. Let alone assemble mechanical assembly.
>>
>>2002846
>What exactly is meant by "hardware" in this context?
Threaded rods, springs, plastic tubing, aluminum tubing, aluminum strips with drilled and tapped holes, screws, hex nuts, standoffs.
>How do people build the custom blasters you design if not with 3D-printed parts?
They print those themselves. I sell twice as many hardware sets than I do complete kits.
>>2002859
>Couldn't they just get those parts at any hardware store?
Lowe's and Home Depot don't carry material useful for barrels. Nor do they carry springs long enough or strong enough for scratchbuilt blasters. Home Depot for instance doesn't even carry O-rings in standard ASME sizes. You have to get a conversion chart from Danco that lists their product codes next to matching Dash codes.
1-1/4 Schedule 40 PVC pipe has been used in the past for plunger tubes in conjunction with rubber fender washers. But plastic pipe only has a narrow dimensional tolerance on its outside. So I find it to be unreliable for getting a consistent inside diameter and surface finish.

Ace Hardware is a bit better in terms of what they carry and have more variety in springs. But useable tubing is still an issue.

I do provide a full set of part numbers, specifications, and drawings for end users if they want to source and produce the hardware themselves. But economy of scale still means that I am offering the full set ready-for-use at a price that is below what they would pay in order to produce 1 to 6 sets themselves. You can't buy the source materials in lengths that are convenient for a single kit either.
>>
>>2002812
>SPACE 3D printer
>not in space
what a shitty marketing team, considering there is already literally almost a half-dozen printers in space by now

>>2002757
It is a bitch and a half to get SLA working in microgravity, that's for damn sure
>>
>>2002338
>>2002339
I'm using matte DasFilament and some amazon silk filament. The PLA tends to stick to my all metal heatbrake and clogs or underextrudes. without lubibg I have to print it at 215-225C as it pretty much instantly clogs at 210C, lubed I can print it fine down to 180C
>>2002340
I bought a bottle yesterday to try that out, ty anon
>>2002456
>>2002533
any other solutions to solve my problem are appreciated
>>
>>2002731
The Mars 2 Pro just plain bad.
>>
>>2002011
>star-hex
You mean a torx right?
>>
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External MOSFET for E3... yay or nay?
>>
>>2002950
It's got a few annoyances, the plastic screen in particular, but performance wise it's about on par with any other mono MSLA unit you can find.
>>
>>2002958
What does it switch, the heated bed? I wouldn't use it on something that needs high frequencies (motor driving), if that's what you're wondering.
>>
>>2002964
That's not true considering it has a light pyramid, which causes uneven curing and requires longer layer curing times.
The Z-axis arm is also shaky on most of them.
It's objectively the worst monochrome printer on the market.
>>
>>2002972
https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/news/elegoo-mars-2-pro-vs-the-original-mars-what-are-the-upgrades

The mars series uses a lens for the mono version and not a reflector AKA "light pyramid". Even still if you want to devise a backlight evenness test I'd love to try it for science, so long as it doesn't use too much resin.
>>
>>2002984
That's still a reflector pyramid.
You can but you don't have to, I had one for a few days and sent it back.
If you print some tiny object copypasted dozens of times spread evenly across the buildplate, the ones on the outer edges will likely fall off while the ones dead center will stick when you lower layer curing times = uneven lighting.
>>
Do we have affordable metal printing for home yet?
>>
>>2002988
No, not happening, ever.
Metal printing services are relatively affordable tho.
>>
>>2002989
Why not? Last time I checked it was a laser melting/soldering metal dust. Too much power needed?
>>
>>2002992
If you really need 3D printed metal parts you can simply use PLA printed parts for lost wax casting, get a muffle furnace and a casting setup for whatever metal you want, you can manage to get all of that used dental lab gear for under 2000 bucks - this is the cheapest way you will get what you want.
If you want to do this at lower casting temperatures with a simpler DIY setup there is also synthetic wax filament, but that stuff is expensive and has no real advantages over PLA when you have a proper muffle furnace.
>>
>>2002997
Can a conventional oven not get hot enough to liquefy PLA?
>>
>>2002998
>liquify
You need to vaporize it, a conventional oven is indeed enough to liquify it, but that's not what you need for casting.
>>
>>2002804
>You'll probably want to run a relay from the pi to the LEDs because they'll probably end up causing too much draw through the pi itself.
That's why you use transistors.

Relays are retarded for this. Not only are they more expensive and less reliable.
You can't hook up an relay directly to a Pi because they need a bit of power to switch, so you'd still need extra transistors.
Also they don't allow any dimming through PWM, which for RGB leds means you severely limit the colors you can display.
>>
>>2002989
actually building a powder-bed printer wouldn't be that difficult, the scraper motors and Y stepper/servo would need to be powerful but apart from that it's just a laser cutter iirc
someone will probably come out with a <5k barebones hobbyist model eventually, not one of those semi-professional models like >>2002997

>>2003001
i wonder if you could mix up your own filament with an oxidiser in it like a solid fuel mix, so you can burn it out
>>
>>2002992
Watch the Dan Gelbart video on metal 3D printing, that gives a very good rundown.
>>
>>2003011
>i wonder if you could mix up your own filament with an oxidiser in it like a solid fuel mix, so you can burn it out
Considering you can get cheap muffle furnaces that are powerful enough to burn out PLA for under 400 bucks that's something not even worth thinking about and if was possible it likely would already exist.
I doubt you could make something cheaper than synth-wax filament.
>>
>>2001579
What would you suggest replacing the electronics with? I have one of these and would like to upgrade it.
>>
>>2002937
Print your PLA at 230C.
Makes it stronger.
>>
>>2002992
>Last time I checked it was a laser melting/soldering metal dust.
SLS is expensive no matter what you do with it.
The laser is expensive. CO2 lasers require precise optics, and the materials that those are made from are expensive. All the other parts got a bit cheaper over time, but the lenses are not likely to. ALON might be an option for lenses in the future, but the patent won't expire for another 15 or 20 years. Even then, small scale metal powders, argon gas bottles for chamber atmosphere, and Class 4 lasers are never going to be something that a home user should really dick around with. And the parts will always have a somewhat rough finish.
The software for these machine is also entirely closed source right now. The powder consumption of this equipment is also quite high. You will rake three times more powder off the build area than you use to produce the parts. And that excess powder has to then be reprocessed for use.
>>
>>2002954
brb, killing self
>>
>>2003105
>not grinding your own lenses from 3D printed clear filament
and I thought I was on /diy/
>>
I guess 230 C is too high for this PLA
>>
>>2002735
Yeah.

Connect the pins to the raspberry pi then run a python script to do whatever it is you want with it when the switch is thrown.
>>
>need an emergency print overnight
>wrong color already loaded
>load brand new spool
>swap colors fast, push new stuff hard to clear old color asap
>watch first line of brim go down
>go to bed
>8 hours later looking perfect (12hour print)
no problemo
>>
>>2003147
You didn't post a picture so I'm doubtful.
>>
>>2003156
I just glanced it over this morning before work. I'll post it later but it's just (another) piece of this damn keyboard again
>>
>>2003169
>Iris
Oh boy, don't shame me Anon, I never assembled mine.
Can you link those cases and keycaps?
>>
>>2003173
>base
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4597151
>walls (the thick ones)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4484220
>top (NOT BOTTOM)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3545130
>keys
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178644
>PCBs, cables, etc
https://keeb.io/products/iris-keyboard-split-ergonomic-keyboard
>build guide
https://pothix.com/iris/

I scrambled the key locations since the original layout didn't feel great. And I have a grocery bag full of parts I printed that ended up either being for the wrong rev or not fitting or whatever. But that list should (probably) work with M2x16 screws.
>>
>>2003105
>Class 4
As soon as the laser is encased it becomes a class 1, just like any cd player on the market.
>>
>>2003105
What kind of wattage are you talking for one of these lasers?
>>
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Why do these strings happen?
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>>2003188
Because.
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>>2003144
Thanks! Any idea which script can do this?
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>>2003188
Increase retraction.
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>>2003188
because god hates that you masturbate so much
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>>2003187
The plastic SLS printers have a minimum of 30 watts. The more capable metal SLS printers range from 300 to 800 watts. Systems rated below 300 watts that claim to be able to produce metal parts are likely to require post -sintering of the parts, or will have lower speeds and lower print accuracy. Laser marking of metals starts at 150 watts as a minimum.
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>>2003188
Which material and what temperature? If it's too high that could happen.
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I see this thing being recommended to me on a shopping site... but I have no idea when I'd actually use this. What is this actually used for? When would you need it?
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>>2003258
If you want to control a dual-screw Z axis (or if you're a heretic dual-belt) with two motors for more dakka instead of one and a belt, and with one motor output, for example if you only have 4 motor outputs or you have 5 with two extruders
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>>2003260
Interesting. Never even heard of such a thing. I wonder how synchronized the two steppers would be after an hour of operation.. Off hand, it seems like a bad idea.
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>>2003261
>I wonder how synchronized the two steppers would be after an hour of operation
The z axis in particular? Quite. It doesn't move a lot.
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>>2003200
>filament runout sensor
>Does anyone know how to install this directly onto Raspberry Pi (I run OctoPrint)

https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/filamentsensorsimplified/
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>>2003260
>>2003261
It's for stepper motors, which are synchronous motors that usually operate without feedback anyhow. So long as they're not putting so much force that they're in danger of skipping steps, I'd wager they'd stay synchronised indefinitely. If the two are connected by a toothed belt, then even if one skips a step then the other will too, else the belt will go fucko.
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>>2003141
bowden setup? don't go over 205.
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Anyone have actual experience with printing carbon fiber reinforced parts (guess it wouldn't HAVE to be a "part" but I can't think of a better word) with their ender 3? Yes, I know it needs upgrades and modifications to do so, swear to god if I have to listen to one more "3D printing community" member go on about obvious fucking shit just to end with "oh but I've never done it myself..."
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>>2003313
I have experience 3D-printing with CF-reinforced PETG and Nylon. Tensile tests we did showed marginal gains for PETG, but the CF still destroys your nozzles and possibly extruder gear on both kinds of filament, so CF-PETG is a mediocre choice. CF Nylon is pretty good but requires temperatures far above what an Ender 3 can safely do, and requires at very minimum an enclosure, preferably actively heated. Expect lots of warping unless you can get the hotend and environment temperature under control.
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>>2003175
Thanks Anon, I think I'll copy your button layout idea too, looks comfy.
Gonna resin print those keycaps and see how that holds up.
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>>2003313
NylonX is amazing. My best friend prints with it all the time. He uses a steel nozzle (they're $0.95 on chinese sites).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTMyCySehAE
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>>2003329
I wish it were cheaper
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>>2003332
Yeah, but that's why you use it sparingly and only for parts that need lots of wear and strength. This shit even beats glass fiber reinforced injection molded stuff.
Another one to look into is PolyMide and other brands of nylon-polyamide mix filaments. They're not as strong as CF but kevlar is pretty fucking strong too. I doubt you'd easily tell them apart.
Set some price drop alerts on a few sites for these filaments and hope you score a deal.
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well fak
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>>2003340
I see a lot of people making these yarn ball models. Is this some kind of meme?
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>>2003329
What's the durability on those wheels?
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>>2003340
This is what you get for being a delta heretic.
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>>2003295
Yeah it's bowden. Why not? The seller recommended 200-230C for temperature. I didn't get a chance to really inspect the print this morning to see what one is best. It took over two hours to print.
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>>2003370
bowden tubes (especially those cheap ones that are almost always white) and high temps don't mix. I wouldn't heat them up above 210C myself.
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>>2003340
anon you spilled your spaghetti all over your printer
did a cute girl walk in?
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>>2003147
>>2003156
for some reason the brim itself looks awful but the parts are perfect except some feature echoes I don't care about.
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>>2003420
Brim working as intended.
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>>2003420
unless that's ABS, brims are totally useless for PLA. if you can't print PLA without a brim, you're doing something wrong.
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>>2003436
brims have always done wonders for me with PLA

ledt brim, right no brim. Unless concentric bottom layer can cause this the only difference is the brim
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>>2003437
you need to learn how to properly tune and lay down your 1st layer. increase extrusion, lower speed, increase hotend temps, increase bed temps etc.
brims cause poor finish and add an extra step and waste plastic too.
completely unneeded with PLA/PETG.
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>>2003439
It's the only choice when you buy a chinkshit printer, even PLA is too much for those...
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>>2003436
I've noticed significantly better PLA prints with manually modeled brims. Still not super experience with other manually modeled supports yet, though.
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>>2003439
my initial layer settings are 0.2mm, 220 nozzle, 65 bed, 10mm/s. Anything with a cross sectional area less than an inch or so doesn't stick and anything too big the corners curl.
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>>2003439
>completely unneeded with PLA/PETG.
>PLA
>completely unneeded
Dunno bro, my big PLA prints warp pretty badly to the point where I'd rather print PETG or ASA instead. Brims can help if I'm printing just a bit larger than the maximum safe PLA size. For really big stuff(>170mm) they're fucking pointless, shit just warps until the brim comes off the bed.
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Is this the right way to wire in a second part cooling fan? Or will it create nerve gas
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>>2003340
Could've been worse, trust me
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>>2003470
Uh, yes. But why did you draw it that way?
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>>2003470
>>2003481
they are having sexy time
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>>2003379
Ah. I just upgrade the tubing to Capricorn yesterday right before the test. I did print the Ender Hotend Fix but haven't installed it yet. I was going to measure it precisely first to make sure everything is to spec. I'm getting a new extruder soon so I guess I'll have to calibrate it when I do.
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>>2003481
to trigger you and make you feel superior on an anime forum
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So can I print out and assemble waifu garage kits with the Sonic Mini 4K?

Or is it better to just make tabletop figures?
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>>2003436
how else am i supposed to print large flat parts without a heated bed?
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>>2003436
>if you can't print PLA without a brim, you're doing something wrong.
They're useful whenever the part you need to print has very little surface area on the build plate side
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>>2003313
>CF Filament
Gave a nice surface finish and really hid the layer lines, but the parts lost a lot of ductility and felt more brittle than I expected. I don't recommend it.
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>>2003470
the "Y" splice is dumb
just bring the pos to one fan terminal, then from that same terminal go to other fan and then repeat with neg
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>>2002531
>>2002326
Not too late, tried the vinyl glue/superglue solution but didn't work on the first try. Might do another attempt or look for something else
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>>2003442
>It's the only choice when you buy a chinkshit printer, even PLA is too much for those...
nonsense. anything based around 24V will be more than good and even the bed will have enough watts to keep it hot and stable. when dealing with 12V and shitty power supplies, things do vary.
>>2003448
>I've noticed significantly better PLA prints with manually modeled brims. Still not super experience with other manually modeled supports yet, though.
Unless you're printing something really thin, brims are not needed. And even when printing thin stuff, you can just use some diluted PVA glue or a glue stick. and if that fails, tabs.
>>2003449
you could use tabs for corners only.
>>2003454
what bed surface do you use when things come off so easily? you should also try increasing your temp way higher because it looks like your bed might not be calibrated properly. Also, verify with a thermometer or a probe what the true temp of your bed is.
>>2003508
>without a heated bed?
with glue. but yeah, why not upgrade the bed to a heated one?
>>2003515
>They're useful whenever the part you need to print has very little surface area on the build plate side
You should always try increasing the bed temp, increasing the hotend temp and using the extrusion multiplier to put down more plastic before using brims.

Brims are like training wheels... they're for amateurs. I'm yet to see any pro-shop use brims.
And rafts are for people who have no clue how to use a printer or use a printer from 10 years ago.
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>>2003442
Maybe you happened to get an especially shitty chinkshit, but I've never needed to use brims with my glass bed Ender 3, and have only even used rafts a handful of times.
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>>2003470
Yes. But I think you might be overthinking something, it makes no difference that the positive wire goes to the second one and is spliced over to the first and vice versa. Once all the terminals are connected together they're one net anyway, there's not really an "order". So you can just wire in one fan, then solder from negative on the first fan to negative on the second fan, positive to positive.
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If my bed is at a slight slope and I use something like the BLTouch, does it compensate by varying the thickness of the line somehow?
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>>2003582
I believe it compensates by offsetting your Z-axis based on the nozzle's current X/Y coordinates, so that it remains at a constant distance from the buildplate as it moves around.
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>>2003527
>>2003572
kinda gay bruhs

| Y | y-splice no homosecks
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>>2003488
you can but if you want something decent sized, youre gonna have to print them in parts
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If I upgrade the board in my Ender 3, is there a way to keep the sounds the steppers make?
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>>2003652
You /like/ ancient printer noise?
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>>2003548
>what bed surface do you use when things come off so easily?
Creality glass. Also the things come off so easily only applies to PLA. A PETG print directly on the bed is near impossible to remove.
>increasing your temp way higher
Initial layer is already printing at 230C at 20mm/s. I think that's plenty hot for PLA.
>your bed might not be calibrated properly
Not possible, as this would affect all prints no matter the material. Also you're trying to tell me that 5*5 grid bilinear leveling does fuck all to help.
>Also, verify with a thermometer or a probe what the true temp of your bed is
At 115C target it's only 1-2C lower. I can only assume the error would be lower at 60C.
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>>2003548
>Brims are like training wheels... they're for amateurs. I'm yet to see any pro-shop use brims.
I use them all the time for certain parts. I even add them selectively to specific areas on my models to increase reliability of repeated prints.
More adhesion by other methods isn't always the answer. And having too much adhesion can mean not being able to remove the parts from the buildplate without damaging the surface.
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when cleaning prints with alcohol, how many times can i reuse it? will it get visually cloudy or something before it starts to lose its cleaning power?
just want to know before hand since the IPA % you need to properly clean prints is pretty damn pricey.

kinda thinking i should go with the resin where its water clean based but i heard those resins arent as good or something.
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New Thread
>>2003663
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>>2003654
For peak aesthetics I'd also like to mix in some dial up modem noise. Is there an Octoprint plugin that does that?
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>>2002798
>You realize the seller is literally going to just steal your model turn around and sell it, right? That's the standard business practice in China.
I told him its ok
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>>2003817
>helping the chinese
bruh you deserve the chinese disease
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Hey bros, I upgraded my heated bed from 12v to mains 120V. When the heated bed is on, to either reach or maintain temperature, the incandescent lights in my room kinda flash. Is this a grounding issue, or is this to be expected from a shitbox apartment?
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>>2002457
>toxic flour compounds
I hope you mean fluor. Or is your wife using your teflon pans to roast her poison bread?
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PSA:
Never ever ever ever buy ASA from 3dprintingcanada. It is the very worst filament I've ever had the displeasure of trying to print with. ASA is supposed to be easier than ABS to print but this waste of money ASA from these guys is unprintable. I have gone back to ABS.

Direct drive dual gear setup, heated enclosure, heated bed. No issues with ABS



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