apologies in advance for another nerf thread on the catalog, but what's the optimal length of tubing in this system? the idea is that the ram seals behind the dart and the dart gets shot out through the barrel like a champagne cork. what length of tubing should i use if i want to minimize friction on the walls while also minimizing the amount of dead space the tubing introduces to the system? is there an optimal radius for this setup as well; should it follow an angle shallower than 45º?
>>2001303darts are assumed to be 12.7 x 36mm, forgot to mention
You're gonna run into problems trying to push a cylinder through a curved tube blowing air at the side. I know need darts are bendy but I doubt your design will work as well as you think it will despite the pretty picture you drew
>>2001364yeah, i am somewhat afraid that the dart heads rubbing up against the walls will impede performance the point that the blaster squibs every couple shots, but there are aftermarket darts with narrow heads and i can always increase the radius of the PTFE to at least alleviate some of the friction. darts going through curved pathways has been proven to work, though, at least in gravity-fed hoppers like pic: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/topic/19569-diy-hopper-clips/ (gotta click the image archive button if you want pics, embeds are broken)
with enough force you can make a 50 cal curve 180 degrees looneytunes style. YouTube it i didnt believe it either. but its gotta enter the barell straight, first. maybe sleeeving might help you with that plumbing your thinking about. >45the very fact youre bending it loses efficiency but if your fit is good it wont matter with enough psi given its nerf. id almost consider an oring application to the base if the darts, simulating the nerf blaster piston design.i dunno why youre going curved its brutally difficult and akward. 90 deg fitting with a paintball can works better. a nerf ar-15 is much easier.
>>2001303Hmm, youre interesting, im guessing your probably a hair over 18?Instead of mentally prentending you have to explain things to people, "pretend this gap is sealed in", just think more about what you're designing. Everything you drew obviously isn't functional anyways, it doesn't need pretense. I guess you're trying to get the scoop on trolls, but your drawings are so advanced that anyone mentioning air leaks would be obvious bad faith actors. To step up your game, instead of saying "pretend poo poo pee pee", say "sealed coupler" "sealed junction" or even if youre using some form of it, say "sealant". It sounds gay but having quality and standards is how you level up. By pandering to people who have to pretend gaps are sealed you are inherently lowering some of your cognitive ability to their level.
Dude your design is retarded and will not work. Go for tried and tested like the retaliator. Or go for the homemade blasters that have all the plans premade. Or brass breech and existing blaster, like the retaliator. Retaliator.
>>2001380add a second perforated tube that blows air to keep it stable.