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File: collage.jpg (497 KB, 1800x1800)
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The Secret Of The Ooze Edition
Old thread: >>1953782
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.
>>
>>1956540
>Solvespace still not in the op
>>
my hairspray, bltouch, and roll of PETG arrived. Gonna try printing off that E3P fan cover thing. Am I 3dpg approved yet?
>>
>>1956632
Spamanon here. You're approved in my heart.
>>
>>1956632
Print the reverse cooling duct first.
>>
What is the minimum nozzle size for (good quality) wood fil? 0.8? or is 0.6 good without clogging?
>>
>>1956632
Don't forget to print a dragon dildo mold for silicone.
>>
>>1956714
Haven't used any wood impregnated polymer, but the ratio of of the nozzle diameter vs filament diameter is pretty important when it comes to both heating the filament and the pressure inside the nozzle.
I've seen good wood prints with .4mm, so of those two I'd just try .6 and start with a temperature tower test.
>>
How well does PLA handle heat? My router's plastic shell cracked on moving and I want to print a replacement but I'm afraid of it warping since it can get pretty toasty.
>>
>>1956761
Make it T H I C C (3mm+), maybe take the opportunity to put in an active fan. Or make it in PETG.
>>
>>1956761
Not very well. It starts to warp around 50-60C depending on brand. I printed some drawers for my Ender 3 and the top drawer's roof starts to cave in when I'm printing with the bed above 85C.
>>
>>1956761
I think you'd be better off printing a mold and casting it with of a thermosetting polymer.
>>
What's your method for dealing with primings, brims, rafts, failed prints, and all that stuff? Do you have one big bin, do you have one bin per colour? Do you just toss it into the garbage or do you send it for recycling? I'd like to not contribute to the microplastics problem but PLA is just too cheap.
>>
>>1956777
Plastic waste is seperated and recycled here, so that's where my homeprint waste goes. At my workplace students have designed a shredder and filament extruder, although the latter is rarely used because filament diameter is hard to control. We're looking to build a pelletprinter instead, much easier.
>>
>>1956777
I only print PLA and I just toss them all into a bin for processing down the line. I'll build/buy a shredder and extrude it into filament again.
>>
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Should have started with not shit filament....
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>>1956780
>We're looking to build a pelletprinter instead, much easier
How so? Making pellets from pieces for further processing, or a printer that eats pellets instead of filament?
>>
>>1956784
Bro this is like the nth time you post these miniature buttplugs. At least tell us what they're supposed to be.
So far my best guess is that they're something like nerf darts. It's certainly something consumable and most likely not to be reused.
>>
>>1956784
Hurray for the Mob Of Buttplugs!
>>
>>1956787
The latter, obviously.
>>
>>1956790
>The latter
Supposed so, noice
>obviously
I have learned to use that word very sparingly
>>
>>1956784
Which filament were you using before?
>>
>skr1.4t and 2209s arrived
>some stuff to stiffen up the e3p in the mail
>can't wait for it to arrive so I can take the printer apart and rebuild it properly squared
I wish I would've ordered earlier, forgot about 11.11.
parts for the rc car still somewhere in the shipping process
>>1956714
why restrict yourself, order a set with one of each size
you can print 0.2mm layers with a 0.8mm nozzle so quality should be good with either
>>1956788
one-way buttplugs so you don't have to worry about bacteria growing in the layerlines
>>
>>1956805
>one-way buttplugs
PVA?
>>
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>>1956794
Some junk called Creozone, i think a workmate bought it and i sort of borrowed it.
This one is called Extrudr, never heard of this either.

>>1956788
Reasearchy stuff. Im doing simulation of nonspherical particle movements and alignments, the buttplugs will be used for validating the results with real wold data.
>>
>>1956819
>simulation of nonspherical particle movements and alignments
That's actually very cool. It's nice to see people here using their printers to make something more interesting than 3D printer parts and figurines.
>>
>>1956819
Neat. What fluid are you going to use? Water in a pipe, a wind tunnel or what?
>>
>>1956824
>It's nice to see people here using their printers to make something more interesting than 3D printer parts and figurines.
Probably because a bunch of new people just got printers and that's what everyone prints in the beginning
>>
Is this compatible with an Ender 3? If yes how do I even mount it?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32948416008.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.32.3b555d53tciE4s
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>>1956824

>>1956834
The buttplugs will be rigid bodies being shaked in a container. Ill play with different shapes and shaking acceleration profiles.

Heres a CT of the buttplugs chucked in a Pringles cup.
>>
>>1956856
It looks like the filling of the buttplugs is arsey metrical, is it intentional?
>>
>>1956877
That was the idea. Although im not sure if that tiny amount of extra weight will have any effect on anything.
>>
Are there any accurate Beretta 92 models around? I'd like to practice holster draw without having to pull it out of the safe every time.
>>
>>1956540

does anyone know for sure whether the new versions of the sovol sv01 come with the ptfe tube installed already?

I want to print flexible material and I'm torn between the artillery sidewinder and the sovol sv01.

anyone have any ideas on which has less issues?
>>
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Not sure if this is the right place, but google is not giving me much
I got an Anycubic Photon and I have no idea what I am doing. The first time I printed the print reference file inside the USB instead of the test model, It did attach to the plate, so I know that i at least set the Y axis right.
Now that I am trying again I find it impossible to lower the Y axis enough. I see a piece of thin metal attached to he head(?), and within the main body there is what I assume is a sensor and a red light (the black thing at the base behind the screw), when this piece of metal enters the sensor the light turns off and you cannot lower the head any more. I have tried using a L touch this strip of metal and it sometimes works for enough time that I can move my Y axis again, but it is very precarious and more often than not whatever is happening stops and the movement stops again.

I want to ask before I fuck around any further, I have seen someone else with the same problem but there were no replies. My best guess is that this piece of metal somehow deformed and went down a millimeter or two, so the solution would be to push it back up, you can see on the picture that it does "sag" a bit (even if it is stiff and moving it would require force), it seems to be deformed just over the exact amount of Y axis I am missing
>>
>>1956929
I have no experience with that particular printer, but what you are describing sounds like the end stop. It's how the printer knows it has reached the end of that axis.
>>
>>1956929
That's the endstop.
If you connect to the printer via USB and Pronterface you should be able to disable the endstops and move it further, though I don't see why you'd do that.
>>
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Wonder what 2021 has in store for us...
>>
>>1956942
I love it
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>>1956942
When I see stuff like this I really wish I had an E3D toolchanger
>>
>>1956949
There's no reason you can't print the different parts separately and then glue them together.
>>
>>1956950
That would require me being proficient enough in CAD to isolate the pieces and make some way of putting them together.
Very rarely do you find models that are also available in parts that you can print individually.
>>
>>1956953
Then get good at painting, I guess.
>>
>>1956932
>>1956934
I imagined that it was some security feature. But now that you mention it I remember that the manual said to be careful when lowering the plate as to not break the screen, so I guess it is not meant to protect from millimeters but whole centimeters. The sag does make me think that it is supposed to be up a bit, and those screws tempt me to just remove the whole piece. I think I will be deforming the piece back up two millimeters, but I will be waiting for someone to tell me not to do it and why
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>>1956955
>and those screws tempt me to just remove the whole piece
NO
>I think I will be deforming the piece back up two millimeters
Yes
>>
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After owning a 3D printer for few days, I've come to a realization that unless you know how to use some CAD program, the 3d printer is not that useful. You can't even modify any design unless you know how to use some 3D program well. I attempted asking some guy on Thingishit to modify something for me but he didn't even check his messages. I'm guessing he gave up on this hobby long time ago.

Now... which 3D program should I learn... hmmmmmmmmm... what do you guys use?
>>
>>1956960
I use SolidWorks, but the program(s) you should learn change based on end use. SW/Inventor/Fusion360/SolidEdge/CATIA/etc are better for functional, mechanical parts.
If you want to make sculptures, you'll be better off with Rhino/Blender/ZBrush/Meshmixer/etc.
>>
>>1956960
I use solidworks. I'm still learning but if you'd ask me to draw a 3D penis I could probably do it.
Many people here will shill against it because it has a steeper learning curve than fusion360, but it's a professional grade program with high tech stuff like fluid flow analysis built in. If you can learn it then it will serve you well. It's also something that looks good on your resume if you're in a domain may require 3D design.
>>
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>>1956959
Aye aye cap
Will do it tomorrow, in the meantime I will be looking for anime figurines to print, already found a Crusader MKIII I can paint to resemble best girls's
>>
>>1956942
how was that printed?
>>
>>1956964
I haven't played around with Fusion 360 much, but SW has been incredibly ubiquitous in many industries. All sketch based parametric modeling software works basically the same way. The main difference is how all the different tools are organized.
If you want a good experience working with SW, I strongly recommend you learn the contextual menus.
If you're in a sketch and want to make a circle, for instance, you press and hold the RMB and then move the mouse to the right. If you need to dimension something, press and hold the RMB and slide up. That, combined with keyboard shortcuts, makes modeling very quick.
>>
>>1956960
currently getting the hang of freecad, its alright. before that I used fusion360, for small stuff I use shapr3d on iPad and for serious work I open up catia. go with f360 first, its easy and has tons of how-to's online
>>1956844
you can make everything fit. the customer pics show some creality machines so I guess yes
>>
>>1956971
>learn the contextual menus.
Adding to this, the contextual menus are customizable, so you can change them to suit your workflow.
>>
>>1956994
Yeah, but knowing the default ones means you can jump from version to version or from one computer to another with little headache.
The custom shortcuts I make are on the keyboard. I use the "i" key for isometric view and the "m" key for the measuring tool.
>>
>>1956960

SolidWorks. You can sail the high seas, but I just went ahead and threw down 100 for a year long hobbyist license.

Don't get discouraged. You can spend years increasing your proficiency with these programs. The key thing is learning the fundamentals of the programs and understanding how to not fuck your future self taking shortcuts. Speed will come with time.
>>
>>1957028
Yeah, the #1 advantage of programs like SW is that, if you build it logically, you can very quickly revise it and make different iterations via the "configuration" functions.
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>>1956705
yep, then the z shim and then the circuit board cover
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>>1956947
Thanks senpai

>>1956949
>>1956969
I used the MMU2S upgrade for my Prusa i3 MK3$ https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-multi-material-2-0/
>>
>>1957064
How much are you selling them for?
>>
>>1957064
>MMU2S
just saw a vid on this... pretty fucking awesome! is there something like this for Ender or CR10?
>>
>>1956648
https://files.catbox.moe/3irhof.stl
>>
Anyone know the name of the hinge where you can separate 2 halves? I'm making a case and I would like the lid to be removable to be used as a tray
>>
>>1957064
Purge block looks almost as much material as the dumpsters lol
>>
I just inherited ancient 7 year old printer
I have no idea what to even do with this nearly useless thing
>>
>>1957100
Parts for a new better printer
>>
>>1957098
Do you mean a piano hinge?
>>
>>1957115
It's similar to that, but you can slide the two halves apart whenever you want. No pins or anything.
>>
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>>1957068
They were gifts for mates/family, so not selling


>>1957092
Hmm, I know there are a few diy MMU2's out there. BUT if you plan to get one be aware that they are not ideal for printing with different materials (like PLA body and PETG supports), but if you are printing with single material then it's perfect.

This limitation is due to the single hotend, which takes heaps of purging to clear:
https://www.antalife.com/2020/07/project-just-how-multi-material-is.html


>>1957099
Not quite it turns out (see pic). If you were to print a single model then yea it would be a waste, but the more models you print in one go the more economical it becomes (as the purge block stays the same size)
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>>1957097
thanks anon
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>>1957115
>>1957131
To get a better idea, here's what I have so far. Also need to add a clasp/latch.
>>
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thoughts on this goy
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>>1957150
I think I figured it out. This is my first design I made and I hope it isn't shit. Also forgot to chamfer the edges.
>>
>>1957154
Used to be an annoying hypeman, now a literal who.
>>
>>1957154
I remember when he was the host of Make: magazine's weekend projects then started posting videos of his rep-rap work. How much money has he made off of makerbot?
>>
>>1957064
>>1957141
Surprising how much material you have to put into the wipe tower, I was not aware of that, how many millimeters do you have to extrude every color change?
>>
>>1957334
I just use 250mm3 for every colour
I know there are ways to run purge calibrations, but I am too lazy to do it for all my filaments
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>>1957339
Can't you just purge in the infill to save some filament?
>>
>>1957339
Wait, do you extrude full ten centimeters, hundred millimeters, of filament each and every filament change?
Surely there is no way that is necessary.
>>
Guys, little help needed here. I got a set of acrylic paint from the local hobby store, but I am a total numpty about model painting. How to thin it, how do I wash the brushes? Does it need any special thinner, washer or some special accessories? Didn't want to ask in the store cause it would make me look stupid.
>>
>>1957346
Also what is "pouring fluid" for?
>>
>>1957346
>acrylic paint
Just need water
>>
>>1957346
>>1957351
Yeah, just add water. But always mix it really well until it foams before using it.
>>
>>1957354
>always mix it really well until it foams
I am suspicious about this, not that I don't have the fine motor skills and experience
>>
>>1957351
>Just need water
Also how much? What is the normal mixing ratio?
>>
>>1957378
>When starting out, thin your acrylic paints with water until they have a thickness similar to milk.
http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature-painting-base-coat.html

The exact mixing ratio would depend on the paint you bought, some are thicker than others.
>>
>>1956960
I use rhino, it's pretty easy if you've already used 2D CAD or hand drawn technical drawings, you just draw 2d stuff on the 3 planes and then make solids, or add/subtract solids.
The only downside compared to parametric 3d modeling software is that just like real life you can't easily edit parts, too small hole can be enlarged but too big needs to be filled and redone, but saving incrementally can help you restart from a previous step.
>>
>>1956856
actually very interesting
>>
If I could get an ender 3 v2 for $230, is there any reason why I shouldn't?

As a first printer too
>>
>>1957574
If you want to print a bigger dragon dildo you should get the one with infinite z-axis for your cavernous asshole
>>
>>1957574
Don't listen to the autismo, the V2 is fine, go for it, it is basically a Pro with some of the mandatory upgrades already applied
>>
is the 220x220 a good enough space?
can i attach things together if i need to make it bigger?
what if i want to make a regular size storage box that is say 300x300 what then? will i have a problem or can i solve it without too much problems
>>
>>1957625
A 30cm box costs like 5 bucks.
Filament alone to print one will cost you more.
>>
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>>1957413
Rhino's really nice. Can recommend.
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>>1957634
so i would want to buy the box and then print splitters and custom inlays etc
then i would be a responsible user? seems fair and good and it would make the size perfectly acceptable too
>>
>>1957625
I would adapt to the box TBQH, printing boxes is not that a good idea, they are much weaker than injection molded ones. Internal separators are a different story.
>>
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>>1957340
Yup that is an option, but if the body colour is light (green/yellow...) and you are changing from a darker colour (black) then you will notice it. So I just use a purge block

>>1957344
Is that what 250mm3 is? If so yea ;^)
I found that for lighter colour changes (say yellow to white) you can use 150mm3, but for darker (say white to black or strangely green) you need at least 250mm3. So I just set and forget everything to 250mm3

Also here is something else I found out. If you are planning to print with PLA & PETG at same time (using MMU2S) then you need to purge >2500mm3 between swaps if you want to keep same model strength
https://www.antalife.com/2020/07/project-just-how-multi-material-is.html
>>
>>1957660
Seems so wasteful
>>
>>1957660
How about using one feeder exclusive to pre purge? It can do the large volume purge then doing the switch to the next color or mat in use you only need a smaller amount of purge?
Just an idea, like keeping a neutral filament just for purging to spare the colors actually in use.
>>
>>1957660
Genuine question, how exactly does the MMU2 even work? I watched the Prusa video on it but it doesn't answer the most important question: does it pull the filament out of the hotend completely or does it sever it and purge what's left?
From the pics you posted I can only assume it's the second one since the purge block looks ridiculously big. If you'd pull it out of the hotend you could probably get away with 5-10mm of filament purged.
>>
>>1957660
>2500mm3
that is crazy, how can it be true?
There's no way you need to extrude a full meter of filament just to clean the nozzle!
>>
>>1957681
Pulls it out, pushes a new one in, this is clearly demonstrated in the videos
>>
>>1957346
You should head over to /wip/, they'll get you sorted
>>>/tg/76060257
It's definitely 40k/related focused but the lads there are very helpful and can point you in the proper direction.
>>
>>1957681
Pull/load/purge. Kind of fiddly, though, but a useful device.
>>
>>1957669
Yea it is, but that's just the reality of having a single hotend multi-colour printer

>>1957673
Yea have though of using pre-purge/cleaning material, but it would be a pain in the butt to set up and would not help with using PLA/PETG in same print. Plus you still "waste" same amount of plastic

>>1957701
I have data to prove other wise ;^)
When I say clean I mean when swapping between PLA to PETG (and vice versa). It turns out that material contamination is a pain in the butt to deal with, like the model might look OK and be dimensionally accurate, but as soon as you apply any force to it the layer adhesion fails
>>
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>>1957254
What the fuck happened
>>
>>1957739
It lacks the top layers so best bet would be the nozzle clogged mid print.
>>
>>1957756
I think it finished like that. When I checked it a few minutes before it was done, it was still printing infill. Some of the layers ended up looking weird too. One layer looks like a dotted line.
>>
>>1957769
Sounds like a clogged nozzle.
>>
>>1957769
>One layer looks like a dotted line.
Yup, definitely a clog. When you get dotted lines like that it's a sign of underextrusion. If you pulled on it the layers would separate at that line.
Go clean the nozzle and try a test cube or something.
>>
>>1957756
>>1957771
>>1957773
Ok thanks guys I'll check it out
>>
>>1957739
Also, what is the consensus on cuboid infill? It seemed pretty aggressive on the motors.
>>
>>1957790
Cuboid, or gyroid? I find gyroid is great, lets you get away with 1/2-2/3 less infill (I use 10% Gyroid on things I'd print 15%+ grid or honeycomb). Doesn't take too much more time (if any) either, which is great
>>
>>1957791
Yeah gyroid, sorry. I thought all the constant turns would damage the motor quickly? At least that what I read about needing chamfered edges
>>
>>1957791
>>1957796
That'd really depend on the radius of the arcs, wouldn't it?
The tighter the curve, the more strain on the steppers.
>>
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Since the holiday season is coming and I'm fresh out of gift ideas I decided to print some ornaments.
This is what I made so far, what do you guys think?
>>
>>1957798
True, I should probably use grid
>>
>>1957800
I've had good results with triangle infill.
>>
>>1956964
>Many people here will shill against it because it has a steeper learning curve than fusion360
The reason I never tried it is because it's expensive as fuck.
>>
>>1957804
Not in international waters. :^)
>>
>>1957804
Ever heard of pirate bay?
>>
Is there a better way around having to constantly Level fdm printers? I have an Ender 5 and I have to level the damn thing after every fucking print and fine tune the leveling throughout existing ones
>>
>>1957812
I use these:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203563
Not sure if they work on the E5 as well, it's up to you to figure that one out.
Alternatively you can get a BLtouch and tighten the wheels all the way so they don't come loose again.
>>
>>1957812
>Is there a better way around having to constantly Level fdm printers? I have an Ender 5 and I have to level the damn thing after every fucking print and fine tune the leveling throughout existing ones
Sounds like the Ender 5 isn't good at holding level, or you aren't good at leveling. Haven't had this problem on our Ultimakers or some of my student's Anet/Ender 3 printers, although the latter don't have as much runtime.
>>
>>1957812
Put some wingnuts under the adjustment knobs to prevent them from walking themselves loose.
Pretty much mandatory mod.
>>
>>1957814
Ender 5 has the same Bed wheels as an Ender 3, so probably will work. I'll try them out thanks. Its annoying because I'm still waiting on my Arduino board so I can update the fucking firmware on it, since Creality didnt give you a way to do so out of the box
>>
>>1957799
I thought the one on the right was a fractal
>>
>>1957799
Good idea!
>>
>>1957809
I had heard that they were really shit hot on going after pirates.
>>
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>>1957843
I highly doubt that's the case. If you live in a 3rd world shithole like america then I guess that'd be possible but here in France nobody gives a shit.
I've been using Solidworks from piratebay for over 3 years, upgrading to newer versions whenever possible. Nobody gives a fuck.
Also, pic related. If they'd be so anal about pirates all these wouldn't be up.
>>
>>1957796
>all the constant turns would damage the motor quickly?
I'm not sure where you got that info from. It wouldn't really damage anything unless you've increased your acceleration and speed by a bunch and are really trying to shake it apart - there's a ramp up/ramp down in speed specifically so that it's quieter and doesn't put strain on the machine
>At least that what I read about needing chamfered edges
I don't understand how chamfered edges factor into this
>>
>>1956819
>>1956856
anon - will you be smoothing the surface for your trials?
>>
>>1956819
>Some junk called Creozone
I have actually had pretty good results with creozone, both their PLA and PETG. Although be sure to dry the PETG thoroughly before using.
>>
I just realised, am I the only person who doesn't have the screws on top where the motherboard is? (Ender 3 Pro) I need to turn the whole black box around if I want to see the inside of the motherboard box
>>
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Are these still any good? I'm seeing them on ebay for $70, as is. Surely it's worth that much in parts alone no?
>>
>>1957887

They're meh. I don't use mine anymore. The bed wasn't all that level and it can't get very hot. There's also a bit of wobble in the screw that shows up more and more the further you get away from the column. It also has a known issue with the way the bed's wiring is routed, which fatigues the wires and breaks them after only a couple hundred hours of printing. Mine also developed an underextrusion/skipping issue which I never really managed to correct, despite rebuilding/replacing the entire hotend and adding a filament box/wiper. Near as I can tell, the drive motor on the extruder is just kinda anemic.

I got an Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro, both of which I've had no major problems with. Only issue was that the beds weren't flat, but I've had better luck printing on glass, anyway, so that's not really a big deal. Between all the issues that the Malyan/MP Mini has and the fact that it has a tiny build area compared to the Enders, I just can't find any real reason to recommend it. There's a reason you're finding it so cheap; nobody wants it anymore.

I don't know about buying it for parts. You might just barely get your money's worth in usable components, but only just. And you have to go through the effort of dismantling it.


As an aside, the Anycubic Mega Zero's similar to the Ender with a few attractive design differences, and the sale on it right now ($109) is hot fire. I'm slowly losing the willpower needed to not buy a _fourth_ printer, thanks to that.
>>
>>1957891
>Anycubic Mega Zero
$109? that's a fucking deal if it's a half decent printer.
>>
>>1957874
I was considering, but rubbing them together felt pretty smooth. This is one variable i have no clue how to deal with irl and in simulation.

>>1957884
Interesting. Had no other problem with it, stringing was pretty bad tho.
>>
>>1957739
>>1957791
gyroid is fucking garbage. noisy af, takes too long and generates tons of heat for servos.
rectilinear ftw.
>>
>>1957064
That fucking purgetower, can't you use that material for a proper print on the side, one that doesn't have to be in once color??
>>
>>1957933
>generates tons of heat for servos
Good thing most 3D printers don't use servos then, huh?
>>
>>1957916
>if it's a half decent printer.

Its major failing is that it doesn't have a heated bed. If I got one, that's definitely something I would add, but, mechanically, it's pretty good.
>>
>>1957948
PLA only isn't that big of an issue to me. I could always print a master in PLA and resin cast it for different material durability/thermal properties
>>
>>1957933
>rectilinear
enjoy your gaps between layers
>>
>>1957992
is this real?
>>
>>1957995
>is this real?
no. he's full of shit.
>>
>>1957995
Yes. Rectilinear leaves gaps because the support layers don't intersect since each is printed at a 90 degree offset from each other

>>1957998
nice refutation
>>
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>>1958005
>nice refutation
the burden of proof is on someone who made the statement.
go ahead, give me a link that claims that rectilinear infill causes layer separation.
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>>1958009
>a link
Any slicer which using rectilinear infill will show it
>layer separation.
Not what I'm talking about, looks like I missed a word, meant "gaps between infill layers"
>>
>>1958028
rectiliniar is the default in every slicer on the market today and something like 99% of prints use it. if it was an issue, it would have been identified a decade ago.
I seriously hope you're just trolling. If not, I'm amazed retards like you can even pass recaptcha.
>>
>>1958032
Are you sure you're not confusing rectilinear for grid infill, which is at first glance visually identical, and thus most people don't even know there's a difference?
>>
>>1958036

Cura calls it "Zig Zag". It's dogshit. Tried it out last night and never again. I can't fathom why anyone would use it for anything.
>>
>>1958055
>I can't fathom why anyone would use it for anything.

"Line" infill is the fastest available. Though it provides reasonable support for walls (despite its looks, it's quite solid), its best use is as a low-density internal support for top layers. If you don't have explicit strength requirements for your part (which is better solved by thicker walls in 95% of cases, anyway) there's almost no reason NOT to use it. That's why it's the default.
>>
>>1958028
Looks like underextrusion in your infill to me.
>>
>>1958028
Slow down your infil.
>>
>>1958075
>>1958081
I think you two are fundamentally misunderstanding that there is a layer-sized gap between each of those strands, the only way this would be fixed is with massive overextrusion on infill (or... just switching to Grid)
>>
>>1957641
Looks great, did you model everything from scratch or are there pre-made models for components? Thinking about trying Rhino
>>
>>1958082
It's called underextrusion anon. Not enough filament is passing through your hotend to put down a layer, so it's just fucking stringing for your infill.
>>
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Ender 3
122mm/s
240mm/s infill
>>
Are there any good models for getting bed level just right?
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>>1958161
Printing a big fat brim and seeing if it's level.
>>
>>1958120

Not that guy, but how ignorant are you, even?

There is only one direction of lines per layer. It's not a grid infill, it's a LINE infill. That pattern alternates directions on every layer. There's a gap between layer lines in the infill because that IS no infill in that direction on the layer below.

I cannot believe this needs explaining to anyone...
>>
>>1958163
Hmm, I'm having trouble with the petg being laid down, but then not sticking and blobbing around the nozzle. I know it's a level problem, but I've leveled the Damn thing 5 times (with paper) with no luck.
>>
I give up trying to get piezo leveling to work. The wiring was a PITA because they were so thin. The mount for a cr10+titan aero combo was over designed yet he left no way to mount the piezo electronics. The mechanics of the flex mount require that the whole hot end be mounted further forward than regular rigid mounts, reducing build volume. The pre-tension spring the guy specified was too weak and useless. The actuator for the piezo disk was too short in the design. The trigger is almost impossible to adjust, too sensitive and you get false positives, too insensitive and the bed flexes ever so slightly before the trigger causing a bad mesh. Any tension on the wiring loom changes the sensitivity and thus the trigger offset, causing a sloped mesh.
I finally broke down and ordered a bl touch. I really wanted a solution that used the nozzle as the probe to avoid having to calibrate a Z offset every time the nozzle was changed, but frankly changing the offset for the few occasions I have to change the nozzle is a lot less work than the 6 weeks I spent fucking around with a piezo system.
>>
>>1958173
Better check all screws and belts, etc.
>>
>>1958173
Set your first layer to the maximum (75% of nozzle size), print it low and slow - this tends to even out any errors in bed leveling meaning you can isolate the other adhesion problemsn PETG may cause. Clean your nozzle beforehand (PETG likes to stick to nozzles instead of beds), I've had great luck with a glass buildplate and hairspray as a release agent. Don't use glass alone, you'll ruin it with PETG once you get it to stick. Have you tried different fan settings? PETG is finicky as far as first layer fan speed is concerned, it may curl up more than PLA does.
>>
>>1958028
That is grid infill, it is for top layer support and quick printing, not for structural strength. Don't mistake it for the cubic infill which does have structural strength, is a 3D infill type, has connected layers and is reasonably quick to print.
>>
>>1957916
The anon who printed the Pepe, here.

I own a Mega Zero and its fine if you just use painters tape. It sticks a little too well to painters tape, but before I started using that, prints would slowly warp and lift off the bed.
>>
>>1958128
That's pretty quick, how?
>>
>>1958218
Either
>klipper with direct drive and beefy Y stepper
>that's just the slicer speed and he set the acceleration very low so it never quite reaches that speed.
>>
>>1958119
everything from scratch
but rhino is really strong with adaptive/parametric design, especially if you work with grasshopper
>>
>>1957887
>Surely it's worth that much in parts alone no?
Not really, shitty parts have not much use since when you're doing DIY the last thing you want is to have to troubleshoot your already janky creations because the components you used were bad.
>>
>>1958218
>>1958243
The latter, especially on a small piece like that the acceleration will not be enough to reach those speeds.
And even if it could reach them the maximum volumetric output of the hotend as set in the slicer or firmware would retard the speeds to a manageable level.
>>
>>1958177
>>1958178
>printed part just fine after switch from PLA
>Have to take painter's tape off because it ripped in several areas
>PETG now acts like the bed isn't level after I put down new tape
>try 5 times to get it leveled just right again.
> fail every time
Should I go back to PLA to get it leveled and then try PETG again?
>>
>>1958257
I've never had good results with PETG on painted tape, I'd ditch that instead.
>>
>>1958258
Just bought a BL touch so it I'll just install that and get some hair spray.

Also, have you had problems with layer separation before? I think the issue I had was caused by having too many parts too far away so the layer before would cool and the next layer would be hot so it wouldn't stick, but that's just my opinion.
>>
>>1958266
Don't use part cooling fan on PETG
>>
>>1958268
Yeah, I turned that off in the slicer after I fucked up the bed level.
>>
>>1958269
See if your X-gantry is firmly attached, I once had a misterious bed leveling issue and mild Z-axis problem when my x-gantry screws got loose.
>>
>>1958271
When I get home I'll check this.
>>
>>1957592 pls answer
>>
>>1958314
There's a gap between your nozzle and heatbreak because you improperly assembled it, this will always clog right at that spot.
Take it apart, clean it properly. First, thread the nozzle into the heater block, all the way, then back it out a quarter turn. Then screw in the heat break. Heat the whole shebang to operating temp (plus a safety margin, 220-230 is plenty for PLA), then tighten the nozzle to 1Nm. This means the nozzle properly butts up against the heat break, meaning there's no gap in between them for a clog to form.
>>
>>1958314
>clogging here, why?
In a PTFE tube system you'd have the tube press up right against the nozzle butt and more or less seal that gap.
In an all metal hotend it's up to the heatbreak and nozzle to seal together, and that obviously requires much tighter tolerances. If you messed with it but it still doesn't get better you probably got fucked over by supreme leader Xi and his bugmen, all praise the PRC.
>>
Oi mates
I'm doing a long PLA print, and I'm having some overhangs curl up from their supports. I think I can play with the nozzle temperature; I had set it originally at 210ºC. Should I turn it down to have the plastic be more rigid and deform less, or tune it up so it tries to lay down?
>>
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>>1958471
>inb4 your fan guard looks like shit mate
>inb4 your phone has a potato camera mate
>inb4 why can't you hold your phone still mate
I know mate
>>
>>1956540
>some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD.
I want to learn CAD. I installed FreeCAD, but thought the GUI was very difficult to use, so maybe it's better to just learn the scripting. Is the scripting better in OpenSCAD than in FreeCAD?
>>
>>1958489
Script (pure parametric CAD is very hard for newbies to start with, direct modeling like Fusion or Solidworks is much easier.
>>
>>1958489
If you have the time, I recommend you to learn both and pick what works best for you.
>>
>>1958491
Oh, both approximately equally hard then. That's good to know. I had no idea there is two different paradigms. I don't want to use proprietary software and I use Linux so I think both Fusion and Solidworks is out of the question. Is it worth running these in wine or installing windows for? How much better would you say they are assuming I know how to use them.
>>1958494
>learn both
Both FreeCAD and OpenSCAD, or both parametric and direct modeling (something like OpenSCAD and also something like Solidworks)? I am considering just plunging into either FreeCAD or OpenSCAD. Steep learning curve and then get better?
>>
>>1958511
>Oh, both approximately equally hard then.
No, parametric is much harder. It's the difference between clay modeling and telling someone to do your clay modeling.
Apparently FreeCAD can work with a GUI, but it's difficult to use - so yeah, find out how to run Fusion.
>>
>>1958515
>No, parametric is much harder.
Yes, I understood. I meant since FreeCAD and OpenSCAD is both parametric they are both hard.
>It's the difference between clay modeling and telling someone to do your clay modeling.
Makes sense.
>Apparently FreeCAD can work with a GUI, but it's difficult to use
Yes, it has GUI out of the box. It was very difficult.
> - so yeah, find out how to run Fusion.
I will seriously consider it. Will look at some youtube videos to see the difference.
>>
>>1958491
>>1958494
>>1958515
Thank you guys
>>
>>1958511
>Both FreeCAD and OpenSCAD, or both parametric and direct modeling (something like OpenSCAD and also something like Solidworks)?
C) All of the above. The clay analogy by the other anon is correct, but knowing how both work will help you understand when to use each, and when/how to mix-and-match both approaches. Also take a look into sculpting, like with Blender, for "artsy" pieces.
>>
>>1958472
>>1958471
I turned the temperature down to 190 and it got wispy, then turned it back up to 195 and it's going relatively okay.

I definitively need better parts cooling. Has anybody replaced an Ender fan? Not just the shroud (which helped a bit). Particularly, I'm running my Ender 3 with all-default electronics and actuators, including the itsy bitsy teeny weeny yello^W stock 4010 fan.
>>
>>1958539
Order your fan from TH3D and you'll get a set of 3M splicer thingies with the fans
>>
>>1958543
>Order your fan from TH3D
Unfortunately, international deliveries are unreliable for individuals. But thanks for the recommendation, what's its original brand? I'll try and see if I can get it through a third party.
>>
>>1958543
>>>1958548
>Unfortunately, international deliveries are unreliable for individuals
*in my shithole in general, not from TH3D in particular
>>
>>1958543
https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/40mm-sealed-bearing-fan-24v-ender-3-tornado/
>Be sure to check the polarity on the wires you are connecting our fans to. Typically red is positive and black is negative but some of the Chinese printers to not adhere to these standards.
Nani ni [ F A K K U ] no namae, Chūgoku-chan
>>
>>1958519
>I meant since FreeCAD and OpenSCAD is both parametric they are both hard.

They aren't hard because they're parametric. They're hard because they're programmatic.

I tried to use OpenSCAD, after having used things like Inventor. Maybe I'm missing something, but I have no fucking idea how the hell anyone would tolerate designing anything that way. It's terrible. It's inefficient, slow, and prone to mistakes. "Normal" parametric CAD (like Inventor/SolidWorks) I found to be immediately intuitive. The building-block approach of adding parts and features to more basic solids makes sense to those who have done any previous design/machine work.

Which kind of brings me to a question: Is there anyone here who actually uses OpenSCAD regularly that can tell me WTF the appeal is? Other than the obvious "free" part, of course.
>>
>>1958563
>Is there anyone here who actually uses OpenSCAD regularly that can tell me WTF the appeal is?
I'm originally a programmer/sw engineer/whatever, and in particular a Lisper. I'm accustomed to just edit a syntax tree. With OpenSCAD, it's basically the same stuff.
>>
>>1958556
>Nani ni [ F A K K U ] no namae, Chūgoku-chan
why do you type like this
>>
>>1958570
>what in the name of fuck, china
>>
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why is ABS always a housefire waiting to happen?
>>
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>>1958515
>Apparently FreeCAD can work with a GUI
No shit. It's a GUI program. That's like saying that Microsoft Word can work with a GUI.
> but it's difficult to use
No it isn't. Like any other complex program, you have to learn how to use it. There's tons of great tutorials on how to use FreeCAD in the most basic form.
> so yeah, find out how to run Fusion.
No one should be learning F360. It's cloudshit and they take away features and have even locked out people out of their files. And they constantly change what you can do with a free plan. This time they allowed STEP export after a massive backlash but in the future they will ban it. Stay the fuck away from proprietary shit.

FreeCAD is one of the most rewarding CAD packages out there. And it's not difficult to use at all. You just have to figure out which parts are for you (hint: use PartDesign workbench).

https://wiki.freecadweb.org/PartDesign_Workbench

People need to realize that limitations almost always come from your lack of engineering skills and ideas about how to solve a problem and only rarely from the limitations of your CAD program. Almost every mature CAD program on the market can create some part.
>>
>>1958573
>the year of our lord two thousand and twenty
>printing ABS
>instead of PETG or TPU
You better have a good niche reason, which exist, although increasingly rare
>>
>>1958579
>>instead of PETG or TPU
both of them have completely different properties from ABS.
it's like saying: don't use steel because we have aluminum and brass now!
>>
>>1958573
Because you tightened you nozzle incorrectly.
>>
>>1958582
>Because you tightened you nozzle incorrectly.
havent touched it from factory install, which ill assume is the big issue here
>>
>>1958584
just because it came from the factory like that doesn't mean it was installed correctly.
you should learn how to install a nozzle properly.
https://youtu.be/FRzsGttNMyk
>>
>>1958584
Exactly, nobody knows how to properly tighten nozzles, especially not chinks.
>>
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Looking to get an ender 5 plus. Never had a 3D printer with BL touch before and I am a little confused as to how it works on the ender 5 plus. What exactly is the printer doing once its been leveled to compensate for bed level inconsistency? Is the bed physically moving up and down to accommodate?
>>
>>1958599
>Is the bed physically moving up and down to accommodate
No, it has a micro size black hole to manipulate the space to give an even surface. It also helps spaghettifying the filament
>>
>>1958631
Thats good to hear. I was worried it would be too complicated.
>>
>>1958581
What about ASA? Been hearing a lot about that every time ABS is brought up
>>
>>1958599
I don't own one, but I think it just compensates the prints accordingly. It doesn't do anything else than detect the surface level.
>>
>>1958641
very similar to ABS (materials property-wise) but with less smell. it's an excellent alternative.
however, all the printing rules that apply to ABS also apply to ASA.
>>
>>1958534
Good to know! I'm looking into everything right now. I suppose it's possible to export from Blender to another CAD program when sculpting is needed.

>>1958563
>They aren't hard because they're parametric. They're hard because they're programmatic.
>"Normal" parametric CAD (like Inventor/SolidWorks) I found to be immediately intuitive.
Noted! I know some programming and that's why I'm not that put off by this (even imagine some advantages), but I also can imagine that in certain situations it's a huge pain in the ass to be doing it that way. Especially when you want to sculpt by hand like two other anons mentioned, but maybe then Blender is even better?

>>1958577
>Like any other complex program, you have to learn how to use it. There's tons of great tutorials on how to use FreeCAD in the most basic form.
>FreeCAD is one of the most rewarding CAD packages out there. And it's not difficult to use at all. You just have to figure out which parts are for you (hint: use PartDesign workbench).
>https://wiki.freecadweb.org/PartDesign_Workbench
I will try to follow a tutorial before I give up on it. I just tried the PartDesign workbench and it makes more sense now. I was previously only briefly checking out Arch and Draft because they were the first two workbenches.
>People need to realize that limitations almost always come from your lack of engineering skills and ideas about how to solve a problem and only rarely from the limitations of your CAD program. Almost every mature CAD program on the market can create some part.
That's reassuring.
>No one should be learning F360. It's cloudshit and they take away features and have even locked out people out of their files. And they constantly change what you can do with a free plan. This time they allowed STEP export after a massive backlash but in the future they will ban it. Stay the fuck away from proprietary shit.
Oh...

Thank you to everyone!!!! I have decided to try to learn FreeCAD/OpenSCAD/Blender first.
>>
>>1958648
>Thank you to everyone!!!! I have decided to try to learn FreeCAD/OpenSCAD/Blender first.
good luck.
see this intro that someone linked in previous thread:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6JOITgw_T1Y
>>
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>>1958539
I have actually finished replacing my ender's fans today, got a Sunon 40x40x20 for the hotend and a Sunon 5015 from aliexpress, on a Hero Me v5 duct. The thing required a lot of additional M3 screws and nuts, the original Hero Me wass less bloat. Also I was worried about the 5015s being noisy but they go almost silent if you run them at 99% speed.

>>1958556
The stock 4010 fan on the ender has yellow and blue wires. Had to twist them to the new fan to make sure which was which.
>>
>>1958677
>on a Hero Me v5 duct
Are you the guy who was gonna print it in PETG? Or what did you use? Do tell us how it behaves on next print, I'm fed up with the cooling on my stock bullshit. Right now I only have PLA, but I'm considering ordering a roll of PETG just for the fucking duct.
>The thing required a lot of additional M3 screws and nuts
I should definitively call in a favour from a friend who said he'd give me a bucket of metric hardware. How many screws and nuts did it take you?
>they go almost silent if you run them at 99% speed
Sexay. Do they suddenly get noisy at 100% or did you just have it at 99% from previously and haven't pushed it to 100% yet? Although I don't think I'd sweat it for 1%.
>The stock 4010 fan on the ender has yellow and blue wires
"Fortunately" I think mine is red and black.Unfortunately, it may be inverted, which on replacing the fan I could maybe fix on the board too.
>>
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>>1958579
Yes, bro, I have a good niche reason.
I'm printing these snowflakes in ABS just to spite you.
>>
>>1958685
>Yes, bro, I have a good niche reason.
Do tell!
>I'm printing these snowflakes in ABS just to spite you.
Thanks, they look gorgeous!
>>
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>>1957739
Came out ok for my first attempt CAD. A bit tight on tolerances. Lettering also came out pretty awful. Not sure how to get small fonts in a negative space. Also a corner peeled off mid print, so I hit it with my dab torch and pressed it down with a flat piece of metal. Worked out pretty well.
>>
>>1958705
That's a lot of effort to protect a 3$ iron.
>>
>>1958709
Yeah, it's not about the iron, though.
>>
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>>1958128
Ender 3
256 mm/s
256mm/s infill

I have to upgrade my cooling to print at this speed and even faster. I've finally reached limitations of the default shroud and shitty cooling fan that E3 comes with. Now I have to print a Petsfang or Hero and add a different fan to print at this speed. I also have to fix few parameters too to fix ghosting.

One thing I've learned is that printing at 50mm/s what all these slicers default to is retarded. It's easier to print at faster speeds and the result looks way better too. Not to mention that you save hours of time. If a total noob like me who's had a 3D printer for a week can tune this, so can the rest of you. If you print to make money, get your settings right and make even more money.
>>
>>1958716
>>1958128
What filament is that? Some PLA?
>>
>>1958719
>What filament is that? Some PLA?
Literally the cheapest chink PLA I could find on amazon. Had a few 1 star reviews saying it's shit, bubbly, doesn't adhere and shit like that.
$15 or so... USD.
I didn't wanna buy a more expensive roll because I thought I was gonna print shit with it and just waste it on testing.
Even the cheapest of the cheap shit prints well if you go fast.
>>
>>1958685
>I'm printing these snowflakes in ABS just to spite you.
BASED
>>
>>1958716
That's quite the Dunning-Kruger there pal.
Even with a 0.1mm layer height you couldn't do much more than 100mm/s. The stock hotend simply cannot melt the material fast enough.
For me, printing in long straight lines at 0.1mm, 100mm/s with 600 acceleration was still good, but anything more than that and the stock bowden extruder would start skipping steps.
I upgraded to direct drive now and theoretically that should handle more than the bowden system but I've yet to have any big prints where I could test out the maximum speed.

Now, what is happening in your case is that you're not printing at the speed you set in the slicer. The printer takes time to reach high speeds, just like a car. In a small object like that the hotend has no time to accelerate to those speeds. Remember that it takes as much time for the axis to accelerate as it does to decelerate.
So yes, you're not printing at 250mm/s. That's a speed that only expensive and/or well engineered printers can achieve. A stock E3 is neither.
From the looks of your second print that looks more like 90-100mm/s overall printed with a rather high nozzle temperature.
>>
>>1958677
>The thing required a lot of additional M3 screws and nuts
Hmm.. got a recommendation on which M3 screws/nuts are useful for HeroMe?
>>
>>1958725
Id expect the firmware might have a speed ceiling too
>>
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>>1958725
>That's quite the Dunning-Kruger there pal.
>From the looks of your second print that looks more like 90-100mm/s overall printed with a rather high nozzle temperature.
LOL'd
No. You can fucking hear and see when your steppers go from 50 to 100 to 150 and then into the 200+ mm/s range. And you can also tell by the time it takes to finish the print because it decreases by tens of minutes.
This benchy took 1:10min.
Feel free to show me what you can do at your top speed.

Oh, and don't use Cura if you try to go fast. It will fight you every step of the way because those programmers at Ultimaker clearly know what's best and modify shit in G-code without honoring the settings you've actually picked. Slic3r doesn't fuck with your mind and generates the code you want.
>>
>>1958734
>You can fucking hear and see when your steppers go from 50 to 100 to 150 and then into the 200+ mm/s range
Your ear is not a standardized measurement device, retard.
But if you claim you're printing at those speeds then go ahead and hit me with your settings. Acceleration, jerk, stepper voltage, you know the drill.
>>
>>1958738
>blah blah blah
OK kid. Whatever you say. I'll keep on printing and reducing the time by hours. It's all just a figment of my imagination and clearly this is all an illusion.
>>
>>1958741
I told you to post your settings but you just sperg out instead. Are you afraid that I'd know you're trolling if you did post them?
But ok bro, keep printing at 50mm/s and claiming you're doing 250+. It's not like anyone here can tell you're full of shit.
>>
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Just finished picrelated & it's really time I learned something that isn't SketchUp. Is Fusion360 the way to go? Are there any go-to learning resources?
>>
>>1958748
no, learn freecad. >>1958577
>>
>>1958748
SolidWorks.
>>
>>1958748
what is this and does it use gps to tell it's position?
>>
>>1958599
The bed does not move up and down aside for core z movements. Other than that, you use the black knobs under the surface and hope for the best aka that your surface is completely level.

t. Satisfied ender 5 plus owner, but it has been a bit of a pain.
>>
>>1958748
>Is Fusion360 the way to go?
Try it out and see what you think before listening to people who have a vendetta against it. It's a pretty good tool, quick to pick up, and a good primer to CAD if you've never done "real" CAD before.
>are there learning resources
There's plenty of youtube tutorials, plus Autodesk has a lot of guides (but I don't like their built-in video player). There's also always the good ol' google "how to do X in Fusion".
>>
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Anyone tried this ABL setup?

>Under $10 DIY Auto Bed leveling Z-Probe for Creality Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3293821
for E3Dv6 hotend: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3522646

Looks and works fucking great from what people are commenting. Anyone tried it?
>>
>>1958748
Choose a proper CAD like Fusion, Inventor, Solidworks etc. with widespread adoption.
>>
>>1958787
ohh I can use it on herome, gotta try this now.
>>
>>1958748
> Is Fusion360 the way to go?
Are you willing to pay for fusion?
Because if not, dont bother. They have been removing features and locking down the software for quite a while now.
People who saw the last feature removal and said "oh I can live with this" are sticking their head in the sand.
It wont be long until you are stuck with all of your files on their servers, browbeaten into paying when they lock it down some more.
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>>1958779
Retard. You deserve to have your files be held hostage during the next ToS change.
You'd think all these retards would have learned when from Autodesk 123D.... but no, they fell for the same trick TWICE. And keep falling for it every single time.
>>
>>1958824
I actually enjoyed 123D, it was perfect for small 3d printing stuff. Its a shame they axed it
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>>1958472
>>1958539
Passable above...
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>>1958844
...horiburu below. I guess sanding paper and paint will make me the printer I ain't.
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>>1958832
>I actually enjoyed 123D, it was perfect for small 3d printing stuff. Its a shame they axed it
Yep. I used it too until they killed it. I learned my lesson. Won't be fooled again by these vampires.
Just imagine how many suckers were doing free work beta testing Fusion360 only to have their accounts neutered and features removed.
And the fact that you can never export the native file with full features and history immediately sent red flags to me.

Don't waste your time learning some package that doesn't even allow you save files locally!
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>>1958472
eh? why did you print it in that orientation?? it's literally the worst orientation out of the ones possible (only worse would be printing it at some arbitrary angle).
>>
>>1958851
Because I'm a retard and thought I could jew some supports and print time. Turns out the original was facing down for a reason, said reason being to avoid ending up with a mask with a face only a mother would love to cover my face only my mother would love.
>>
>>1958851
Dunno whether you're talking about the mask or the fan cover, but I'll reprint both, starting with the fan cover tomorrow with a couple filter holders for the mask.
>>
>>1956632
Not until you post your guns and get banned for it. Fuck jannies.
>>
>>1958870
ask for advice before you click print. do this for everything until you get a hang of it.
>>
>>1958878
does that happen here? I was gonna print a 10/22 receiver for the fun of it
>>
>>1958878
sad if true
>>
>>1958849
I have a CNC lathe, so I didnt get super invested in Fusion360
I tried it, but the turning CAM is broken as fuck, and doesnt even have an official LinuxCNC post processor.

Its baffling how such big parts of the program just dont work and have huge obvious bugs that were never fixed.
When I used it, there was a bug about tool orientation (which obviously is HUGE) that had been marked over a year prior and they hadnt fixed it.
Makes me wonder about how much other shit is fucked up with it
>>
>>1958890
Pirate inventor
>>
>>1958890
Thats the problem, there is no "good alternative" if you want it to be free.
Its a pro software that got people hooked over several years time under the guise of "free", doubled their prices and locked people down.

To get software on that level you have to pay a large amount, or pirate it.
Or just learn Openscad or Freecad or other opensource (but crappier) software
>>
>>1958878
Not him, but I have been featured in OP collages and haven't printed my guns yet. Is it okay if I print an "at-least-airsoft-compatible wink wink" receiver?
>>
>>1956540
>Solidworks
>Professional program

Pffft. Junk program for slobs and boomers grasping at employment in their final years
>>
>>1958927
what do you use? autodesk? catia? NX?
>>
>>1958849
>you can never export the native file with full features and history
Can you point to programs that DO do that? You generally can't read freely swap proprietary formats between CAD formats (like, Inventor won't open .sldprt and Solidworks can't handle .ipt files) unless you export it to a "neutral" format, where you generally lose data anyway.

Unless you mean you can't export a file with design history, which is patently false, since .f3d files exist.
>>
>>1958764
ah ok. So where exactly are the accommodations being made if any for inconsistencies with the level of the bed? Are they within the layers of the print job itself?
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Anyone used the leveling assistance feature on the anycubic chiron? How is it? Ive read it can be a pain in the ass and I wary of getting the printer because of it.
>>
>>1958846
Probably needed supports
>>
>>1958983
>leveling assistance
Don't know what the hype is about auto leveling. I rarely have to level my bed after I did a full check and calibration.
>>
>>1958991
different materials need different bed adhesion
>>
>>1958986
That was with supports T_T
>>
>>1959007
maybe lower temp on supports or less of them? looks like the supports adhered a little too well
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>>1958983
My printer has autoleveling and it only worked great the first couple of prints. I didn't know what was going on until I realized I might have a faulty sensor. I've been using manual calibration until the replacement part arrives and I'm having a really nice result. So I'd say that the autoleveling should be seen as an extra and that you should learn to manually calibrate your bed properly anyways.

Now, I'm having an issue myself, but with my resin printer. Elegoo Mars Pro here. For some reason, big detailed prints get the quality just fine, but when I'm trying to do small prints with little detail, I always get warping. Like when making dice.
Also, the print looks perfect until it's time for the curation process. It seems to "sweat" and warps the part even further. Pic related, notice how the circumference on the top is a little warped. What could be the cause? Very new to resin printing but I've had other small pieces with variable circumferences print just fine, it's only with constant geometry.
>>
>>1958890
>>1958893
>>1958897
This shit needs to be in the OP it gets asked every thread.
Go pirate solidworks/inventor/whatever
>>
>>1959039
Not really, the print was kinda floating above the supports. I did try lowering the temperature further up in the print, which helped with curling, and saved it to the profile. Also, horribru orientation and a too-thicc layer height that didn't enable steep enough overhangs.
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>>1958890
>What's a good alternative to fusion 360?
FreeCAD.
It's amazing and can do whatever you need a CAD program to do.
You can even make it look more like other CAD programs with this tip (Glass workbench):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zxjOB2Cao8
>>
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what would /3dpg/ make with this?
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>>1958679
>what did you use?
It's resin printed on a Elegoo Mars Pro. Got fed up with previous ducts sagging over time so I had a friend print it for me
>Do they suddenly get noisy at 100% or did you just have it at 99% from previously and haven't pushed it to 100% yet?
They suddenly get 3x more noisy at 100%. My guess is they don't support PWM so even a minimum drop in voltage slows them by a lot (also at 75% the stop completely). I have set it to 100% when printing bridges. Works good so far.

>>1958677
Nuts - normal M3 nuts. 10 or so
Screws = all M3, a dozen 10mm for the plate and ABL attachment, 4x 12mm for attaching the pipes to the base, 4x 25mm for the front fan (16mm if you have a 10mm thick fan), another 20-something for the 5015 fan (I'm using a 25 but it's too long, I'll cut it sometimes)
>>
Meant to quote
>>1958726
>>
>>1959062
>what would /3dpg/ make with this
My bet would be on dragondildoes
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>>1958878
>>1958882
>>1958884
>>1958926
You'd think jannies on /diy/ of all boards would understand how futile gun bans are.
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>>1959043
With the pro they used an led array. The problem is the lens spacer they used is at the wrong height and too thick, so you end up with a grid pattern of gaps and lines of lesser exposure.
Put a piece of paper over the screen and turn on vat cleaning. If you see any obvious areas of bad exposure, you'll need to contact elegoo support.
>>
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Is this any good? It's so fucking cheap, it has to be shit
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>>1959091
It's good. it will get the job done. However, I'd really use a geared extruder.
I'd spend my budget on a BMG and buy an all-metal hotend... and mount them in a DD configutation.
>>
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>>1959092
Funny I was just thinking that too. How about these? They're almost the same price.
>>
>>1959094
I ordered the exact same hotend on 11.11.
I also ordered Trianglelab BMG 2.0 because these other ones are garbage. They tend to crack and fall apart. They also don't use hardened steel for gears. Do your own research if you think this would be an issue for you.
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>>1959094
>>1959097
this is the list of differences between v1 and v2.
most of the negative reviews on Amazon/YT etc are of the v1 which is still being sold by many sellers. I would not buy v1 even for $10 since it's a waste.
>>
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>>1959097
>They tend to crack and fall apart.
That's a good point, I thought maybe the plastic housing could help with the weight on the gantry. I found this metal bmg clone. Not sure what left or right means?
>>
>>1958758
https://discuss.ardupilot.org/t/building-a-raspberry-pi-4-pelican-case-ground-station-computer-for-mission-planner/64391
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>>1959102
for ender3/cr-10 etc you want a right-handed one. it just means how the feeding lever is positioned. Only some non-popular printers use left handed.
And in case of mounting in a DD config, it doesn't matter on which side the lever is.
Only right handed is upgraded however so def get right handed one.
Main thing is that gears are hardened and not just made from soft steel which will wear out really quickly depending on the amount of retractions.
>>
>>1959097
>>1959100
>>1959106
Awesome thank you. By the way, does this all mount on the stock mounting plate or do I need to get a specific one?
>>
>>1959107
well, I haven't received my parts just yet but from what I've gathered, all you need to do is 3d print some mounts that fit your needs (if you have ABL or whathaveyou)
I like this one but feel free to do your own research and see if you can come up with something else. if you do, reply.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774363
>>
>>1959107
oh, and if you get mosquito, this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3660795
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>>1956540
What would yall suggest for filling small holes on practical pieces?
Made a vent hookup and while it came out mostly fine, there's this one really asshole seam that I need to fix.

Need to fill in the seam best as possible to get it air tight, it's structurally sound enough but air bleeds through.
>>
>>1959117
Wood putty, sand it smooth and then acrylic paint.
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>>1959115
Oh nice that's what I was looking for. I also found these types of aluminum plates, could be had for less.
>>
>>1959117
>>1959118
Yup wood putty works great and it dries pretty quickly too. Sometimes it doesn't like to stick so you have to mash it in between the layer lines with a putty knife.
>>
>>1959121
no idea how well that aligns.
I plan on printing a few and eventually printing my own if need be.
i've also ordered one other extruder that I plan on mounting on top of another Ender I have. I'll see what works the best.
>>
>>1959094
Those are setup for bowden. Unless they also have the parts to make a direct drive.
>>
>>1956942
that print turned out super sexy, good work. Great pick on the colors

>>1957064
Whoa

>>1958128
>>1958734
Nice benchy

>>1958748
incredibly based high IQ anon

>>1958844
stop FDM printing masks, it the wrong tech for it
>>
Why is there such a huge price jump between something like the Ender 5 and Replicator+ is the Replicator+ really that much better?
I've had a FlashForge creator pro for years and am looking for an upgrade.
>>
>>1959152
I feel like makerbot got so big that they don't really need to rely on hobbyist/individuals. They make a killing from selling machines to schools.
>>
>>1959092
Why geared? What's the difference?
>>
>>1959152
>is the Replicator+ really that much better?
No. The added cost is support/warranty.
There are dozens of clones of it available in various sizes and most of them are as-good or in some ways better at a lower price point.
>>
>>1959152
Ender is cheap because chinkshit
Replicator is expensive because it's makerbot, they sell garbage at crazy prizes
Just get a Prusa if you want a good printer and are willing to pay up
>>
>>1959117
Drywall mud
>>
>>1959100
I'm using the v1 for 2months now and haven't had issues with it yet. that said first thing I did was lubing all parts on the inside so I didn't encounter this flaking >>1959106 yet. got it for like 7€. would get the v2 now too.
>>1959062
maybe it could replace glass fiber for making stiff mold forms
>>
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dafuq did Cura mean by this?
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>>1959300
Your model is shit and has a small polygon in that place, which is smaller than your nozzle so it doesn't get printed but gets a brim
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>>1959303
I turned supports off and it went away. Apparently it was an orphan tree.
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>>1959304
>I turned supports off
Oh shit. I had sent it a good while ago to the printer. It'll print like shit, will it?
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>>1959305
Looks like a pretty serious overhang, yeah.
I'd honestly recommend killing the print now and save the time/filament.
>>
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>>1959315
We all make mistakes in the heat of passion, Jimbo^Wanon
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>>1959315
How would that overhang print less-shittily? Just to have a datapoint. Should I pump the temperature up to 210? I'm right now at 195, and I'm hitting the shelf in a couple of layers.
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>>1959319
Make the walls go up at an angle (print an overhang test to see what your printer can manage).
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594
>>
>>1959319
Also, that overhang would print at 75mm/s, 4 walls and bottom
>>
>>1959321
It is already printing. Let us add as a situation constraint that I can't change the model. Also I'm not the author, but I guess I could try to edit the piece for next print.
>>
>>1959319
>overhang
Also, it's a series of curved bridges fortunately, not directly overhangs/cantilevers. I'm guessing 10mm +-2 per span.
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>>1959323
Your choices are basically to fix the guy's model or to clone the model properly.
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>>1959305
I turned the temperature up to 210 and it seems like it workedish:
>first bridge layer: gappy as fuck
>second bridge layer: some unsightly gaps
>third bridge layer: bumpy but 100% coverage
>>
>>1959085
Any examples of "bad exposure"?
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>>1959351
>Any examples of "bad exposure"?
>>
my local hackshack is having a sale on fillaments, so i want to buy some, but i don't print that often..
how long does a pla spool last? they are sealed in a plastic with air sucked out
>>
>>1959386
Dried and sealed PLA lasts as long as the bag does, if you open it up it can be anywhere from weeks to months to sometimes years before it absorbs enough moisture to be garbage for printing. You can always dry it, though.
>>
>>1959386
Depends on how good is the bag, and like in every single thread: depends on your local climate. If you live in a swamp, get an airtight case and chuck a hundred grams of desiccant, and jerky your filament weekly (no homo). If you live in a salt flat, just leave it around. Anything in between, find the right middle ground.
>>
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>>1959390
>desiccant
but i ate it all and don't have any left :_;
>>
>>1959391
Comically enough, the warning is about the paper bag itself that can get trapped in your trachea, eating the silica is innocuous. Also, I've been saving desiccant packets for a quarter century since I was six, from toys and such, thinking it would come in handy. They used to laugh at me.
Used to.
>>
>>1959393
>Used to.
Damn, covid really doesn't fuck around
>>
>>1958652
Nice video, thanks!
>>
>>1959188
>Why geared? What's the difference?
stepper works less, minimizes the chance anything will slip.
>>
>>1959424
I mean, I guess. I just made a bracket so I can move the entire extruder and stepper motor and change nothing. I mean, it works fine for what I use, I just need an extension for the E-cable for the stepper.
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>>1959117
>What would yall suggest for filling small holes on practical pieces?
>>
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>>1959102
Plastic housing is fine. It's lighter than aluminum one and the original from Bondtech is also plastic.
If you're gonna mount anything on the moving X axis,go as light as possible.
>>1959437
Geared means there's a mechanical advantage. A geared extruder will have a gear-ratio allowing for less stress to be placed on the stepper motor, also adding a mechanical advantage for more torque, allowing the filament to be fed faster. BMG uses 3:1 gearing ratio which provides a lot of torque and if the gears are hardened, there's just no way that the filament will ever slip.
NEMA17 stepper motors can slip in high torque, low voltage situations so you want to avoid that as much as possible.
>>1959285
>I'm using the v1 for 2months now and haven't had issues with it yet. that said first thing I did was lubing all parts on the inside so I didn't encounter this flaking
Yeah, grease does help with the noise but it's also very dangerous since it will eventually migrate onto the filament if it's in a DD configuration. Also, grease doesn't help with the damage that filament impacts on the teeth. That's the most important part since this is where slippage occurs and that part can't be greased.

The only solution is to use hardened steel gears. If they're not hardened, don't bother. Just buy a replacement (they sell hardened gears separately).
Bondtech designed this extruder to use hardened steel. Chinks copied it and used mild steel and then there were hundreds of negative reviews of people claiming it doesn't work well and Bondtech BMG suffered some negative publicity even though they did nothing wrong.
>>
>>1959447
Thanks, I got a lot of nuances to learn to this thing
>>
>>1958685
>I'm printing these snowflakes in ABS just to spite you.
How did they turn out? :3
>>
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>>1959351
>>
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>>1959351
Usually results in a support failing and a pancake forming further up the model when it intersects some other part.
>>
>>1959337
That's reasonable. Bridging really only works well in straight lines.
>>
>>1959518
As someone who's never used a resin printer, the quality looks pretty much the same as an FDM
>>
>>1959521
Yeah, the wall spans of the first bridge layer got straightened out
>>
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>>1959496
They came out very nice. I really like the matte white color on them.
You can see the smaller ones as well as a tree here: >>1957799
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I also made some of these globes with rotating center.
These came out a bit rougher on the top surface but it's still pretty good.
>>
>>1959530
>>1959527
Thanks for the spite anon, they are pretty! Now about your other uses for ABS, were you the guy who mentioned putting stuff into engine bays?
>>
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>>1959534
Yeah. Up until now I've had no major projects, it's just replacing broken clips and covers for the wiring, so I don't have much to show from there. Might post pics of the engine bay tomorrow if you want. This white ABS is also the only filament I have in a sort of festive color, so I figured I can afford to print some snowflakes with it. It also has the added advantage of making that one guy absolutely buttblasted, so I'll keep printing in ABS until I'm down halfway with this roll.
Next project is a longer stepper bracket for my Ender 3's Y axis. I have a Titan Volcano hotend on the way along with a 48mm tall NEMA 17 for the Y axis so I can get into big boy speed. Will post here when I'm done designing and printing.
>>
>>1959524
Lol no, it really isn't. I'm all for extoling the amount of detail you can get out of FDM printers (a lot more detail than most people think), but they're not at all close to the level of detail of a resin printer.
>>
>>1959544
>It also has the added advantage of making that one guy absolutely buttblasted
But I'm not buttblasted anon :3 I was trying to tease/elicit some details out of you. I thought you'd have a thicker skin!
>Might post pics of the engine bay tomorrow if you want
Do do
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>>1959447
>they sell hardened separately
nice, I'll order some extra for that 1:7 ratio extruder I forgot the name of

in other news: I'm controlling my e3p via pronterface from my PC, sometimes the homing bugs out and crashes max speed into the opposite direction (front+right instead back+left) - does anyone know why that happens? if I take the gcode and throw it on the SD card everything works fine
>>
>>1959545
Maybe it's just that model, but I could definitely get that on my printer
>>
>>1959547
Never said it was you, duderino. I just know there's that one autist that gets 6 gorrilion% mad if you mention printing ABS.
Not sure what his problem is, ABS is a decent choice for heat resistant parts on a budget.
>>
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First two successful-ish prints, with the tank I:
>Forgot to add proper drainage holes and it is now filled with liquid resin even after curing
>Forgot to elevate the tracks from the raft and they are now fused
>Badly-placed support fused with the hull and there was no clean way of cutting it
>not enough support on the track covers and a few layers separated
Aside from that I am impressed with the detail, each rivet is crisp and manny details I thought were going to be either missing, deformes or low-res came out nicely

What is the best way to print thin and flat pieces in a resin printer? Directly on the plate, vertically or flat with supports?
>>
>>1959587
i dont know the answer to your question but that tank looks amazing. even the rivets are nice!

how long does something like this take to print?
>>
>>1959602
I think it was 2:50, it is only 8.5cm long and what took the most was the cannon since I pointed it diagonally upwards to fit both pieces in the plate, the hull itself only took like 1:45, maybe 20min less
>>
>>1959606
it takes long but it's def worth it.
do you plan on selling these or what?
>>
>>1959639
My family owns a dental clinic, so there is the possibility of using it there, I won't work there so I am learning to use it so I can teach others. As for right now I am interested in using it with making small props for sculptures with would be difficult to sculpt by hand (accessories, tools, weapons, etc). And a friend is interested in buying custom masks from me.

Right now I a, having trouble with very flat pieces, the raft does stick to the place, but then the supports seem to break and the rest of the print stick to the bottom of the tray. I am going to try for a more chunky print instead.
I think that these flat pieces should be printed vertically, maybe the immediately wide part creates suction which breaks the supports. The definition is good enough to make these pieces, but I think the resin is not up for the task
>>
>>1956540
new thread plox
>>
>>1959548
>nice, I'll order some extra for that 1:7 ratio extruder I forgot the name of
WHOA, there's a 1:7 ratio extruder? Which one, anon? Please post a pic/name...
>>
>>1959439
Only works with solid parts or ones with many layers of wall thickness, otherwise you'll deform the entire thing
>>
>>1959659
New Thread
>>1959679
>>
Should I pick up an sla for functional prints? I moved and left my fdm i3 back home and want something new.
>>
>>1959691
Try asking in the new thread: >>1959679
>>
>>1958950
I'll be honest, actually, I've noticed some odd things in my last 24 hours of printing. I'm trying to determine if this was a bed inconsistency or warping due to me having the bed at 90 C (shitty plate, it's the only way I get things to stick for the time being), but I tried printing a hexagonal log lengthwise along the bed and it turned out fairly significantly deformed.

I'm afraid there isn't much accommodation outside that which you make, at least if I'm understanding you correctly. The good thing is that I haven't noticed it with my larger prints, which is where the printer obviously excels. Small, geometrically-exact models can have variable results. Generally, though, I'm satisfied and the print I'm doing right now demands some fairly precise, small plug-in components. It has had about a 95% success rate so far with producing these in proper size and without messing up.
>>
>>1959807
Ah I see. I guess my next question is what exactly is the point of the BL touch if leveling is mainly based on manual? what practical difference is it making on the ender 5 plus?
>>
>>1959817
It does the leveling for you
>>
>>1958599
None of the other replies to this post know what they're talking about.

The bltouch is used to map out the variations in bed height. The z position of the bed is then tweaked in coordination with xy moves so that the printer prints in the same "plane" as the bed, regardless of leveling.

You should still manually level for the best accuracy and to avoid other problems. Some of the details vary depending on firmware config.
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Before the thread ends, I'll ask a stupid question. Is it possible to purchase black painters tape? I can only find royal blue and I don't like the color.
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>>1960802
this is the best tape for 3d printing. it's black too.



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