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Knobs And Conspicuous Bulges Edition
Old thread: >>1950706
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.
>>
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Holy fuck, FreeCAD is driving me up the fucking wall. Does anyone else have trouble with it, or is it just me being retarded? Seems stupid to have a bunch of different "workbenches" with a retarded amount of tools which don't seem to do anything.

What are my other choices for free (as in price) CAD programs for Linux?
>>
>>1953859
*and preferably not openSCAD because fuck that
>>
My ender 3 Pro Mainboard is fucked, what do I need to consider when buying a new one?
>>
>>1953859
Autodesk.
>>
>>1953878
That's not free.
>>
>>1953865
Consider making sure that whatever fucked the old mainboard is fixed so you don't fuck the new one too.
Also I'd consider one of the aftermarket boards like SKR instead of Creality boards.
>>
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after 10000 fucking cubes I tried a benchy....it came out....OK
>>
>>1953859
Fusion 360
>>
>>1953900
what garbage ass printer is this lmao
>>
>>1953905
0.8 nozzle on a cr-10
>>
My fucking RPi 3B died again in the middle of a print. I'm getting sick of this shit. I have it kept around 40C all the time and it still manages to shit the bed and I barely even use the thing.
>>
>>1953900
As long as you insist on printing thick ass layers with a line width larger than your nozzle you'll never get better quality.
I suggest you go back to the 0.4 nozzle and learn to use that instead of fucking around with 0.8 and wasting a ton of filament. You'll never get the same quality from a 0.8 as you do from a 0.4, especially at this layer height.
Those layers are so fucking thicc that I could get my nail under the edges and start pulling apart your benchy layer by layer. Seriously, this might qualify as 3D printer porn.
>>
>>1953910
It's only 0.4 height and 1.0 width, I would hardly call 50% nozzle height pushing the envelope, and ~1.20x width is what I've always done, but ill gladly test x1 width

But yah my 0.4 stuff looked very normal tier honestly, and I'm not expecting crazy 0.4 quality or anything I'm just trying to get it as free as I can of defects before I start printing actual shit, the only reason I switched out my 0.4 to 0.8 is because I have a good handful of parts I need to print that would have been over 30 hour prints with the 0.4.

I had a fine time going to 0.2 and printing miniatures at 0.08h after just a few benchys of testing , but apparently my retarded ass can't go up in size to save my life
>>
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>>1953894
dont worry, I wont move my printer while printing again.
>>
>>1953939
Lol, you moved the thing while printing? You do know that moving a motor can produce an electrical current just like an alternator? This is probably what shorted out your board.
>>
>>1953992
Eddy currents.
When my printer is off, if I move the bed quickly it's enough to light up the screen for a second.
>>
>>1953859
Just use the Part Design workbench. There are a lot of tutorials on YT. This https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6JOITgw_T1Y is a pretty good one for beginners. Three ~15m vids and I'm happily creating parts for my projects.

It's a painstaking process, though. Creating a base shape by constraining shape parts, then extruding them along an axis, then cutting holes and attaching more parts, both shapes made in the same way as the first.

It's always going to be a bit OCD and mathy, regardless of the CAD program you're using, unless you want to go freeform with Blender or something, but good luck making precision parts quickly with that.
>>
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>>1953910
>>1953900
noticeable improvement
>>
>>1954038
The bulging near corners makes me suspect your belt is loose.
>>
>>1954042
the X or Y belt?
>>
>>1953992
Anon said they moved the printer while the motors were on. Did you deliberately misunderstand that?
>>
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>>1953992
>moving a motor can produce an electric current
>moving the entire printer while printing is equivalent to spinning the stepper motors
I'm not even sure how to respond to this frankly, but you're a moron
>>
I can recommend the SKR mini with TFT35
>>
>>1954031
I took a year-long class in Solidworks when I was in middleschool, which is as much CAD as I have ever done, so I guess I am more used to that paradigm than the FreeCAD paradigm (whatever you call it).

FreeCAD just seems like it was created by an autistic 70 year old mechanical engineer. Lots of weird design and workflow choices (at least in comparison to Solidworks). Maybe it's just me.
>>
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Lots of talk about 3D printing, but what about 3D scanning?

Does anyone have any experience with 3D scanning? Is the (consumer-grade) technology "there" yet? Any recommendations about scanners?

I want to print a custom case for my Leatherman Skeletool and its bits, but as you can see from pic related it's quite a complex shape. So among other things, I was thinking about scanning it so I could design the case around it.
>>
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>>1954087
On a side, I also want to try printing out some custom bits (like pic related). Do you think ABS would be strong enough for a screw bit, or would it chip? My only other choice is PLA.
>>
>>1954090
none of the plastics are going to be strong enough for a screw bit
You are just going to shear anything that isnt metal.
>>
>>1954059
I can't know because I don't know how you oriented the print.
Check both.
>>
>>1954100
They both seem fine to me, checked right after you posted.

There is a like dead spot on the y-axis where the table kinda stops, almost feels like a little valley when pulling the table, but it's outside of this print so it didn't effect this one at all.
>>
>>1954090
you have zero chance of printing anything able to be used for that.
>>
>>1954087
Put the item on the bed of a flatbed 2d scanner with a ruler and scale the image output in CAD to match the scale of the ruler. Then trace the item in CAD to the level of detail you want (using one outline or multiples at various depths) and you'll have an accurate solid of the item to work with.
>>
>>1954124
Oh shit, thanks desu. Never even thought of that
>>
This a good deal?
https://www.newegg.com/p/288-00A2-00002?Item=9SIAMPNBBE6065&cm_sp=Dailydeal_SS-_-9SIAMPNBBE6065-_-11172020
>>
>>1954129
Looks decent to me
>>
>>1953992
>You do know that moving a motor can produce an electrical current just like an alternator?
Anon, there's more than one kind of electric motor. A Stepper Motor would be garbage for power generation.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor
For comparison
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator
>>
i equalize filament flow a good setting or no?
>>
>>1954141
Bruh, stepper motors are great at power generation.
Stepper motor and permanent magnet alternators are very similar in construction
>>
>>1953992
Aren't there diodes on the drivers to protect against any backfeed?
>>
OP needs to change ender 3 pro to the v2
https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer
>>
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Ayy, finally im getting somewhere with this shit.
Ill settle with this amount of stringing and seams for now.
>>
>>1954172
What the fuck are you making my dude
>>
>>1954176
buttplugs for the family
>>
>>1954184
nice and thoughtful
>>
>>1954176
Science!
>>
>>1954172
dunno what the hell kind of sex suit your making, but its a pleasure to watch you work
>>
What is the best all metal hotend I can install on my ender 3? I looked at the microswiss one but like 30% of the reviews complain that it's garbage and clogs all the time.
>>
>>1954153
Hover over it and read the blurb. Does it align with what you're trying to do? Because that'll be the answer.
>>
>>1954280
>What is the best all metal hotend I can install on my ender 3?
A hotend that does more than just being all metal. I suggest E3D volcano or at least V6. Both have a longer heating area for the filament so they allow you to print at higher speeds.
>>
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Is it worth it getting an Ender 3 V2 over the regular Ender 3? Apparently the "Pro" isn't worth it but what about the V2?
>>
>>1954283
I mean is that good or bad though? how would that effect the prints?
>>
>>1954087

How about looking into making a decent photogrammetry rig? Shouldn't be too complicated
>>
>>1954299
Depends on what price you find them at. They are all going on sale now. You can get a V2 for around $250
>>
>>1954311

Right now it seems you can get the regular Ender 3 for around €150 and the V2 is about a 100 more. Just wondering if the extra 100 are well spent or if I could just upgrade the regular one myself for the same money?
>>
Is there a way to stitch multiple gcode files together?
I want to be able to print multiple objects in one print job with different layer heights/filament profiles
I'm using prusa slicer currently but the sequential printing feature seems pretty bare bones
>>
>>1954303
>Print thinner than normal lines faster so that the amount of material extruded per second remains the same. Thin pieces in your model might require lines printed with smaller line width than provided in the settings. This setting controls the speed changes for such lines.

Again, you only need to hover the mouse over the setting to get this info.
Fact of the matter is that every setting in there is useful for at least SOME use cases. Whether it fits your project or not I can't say because I don't know what the fuck you're working on or issues you're encountering.
>>
>>1954321
Yes I read it, I also have no idea what effect that has on prints which is why I'm asking.
What problem is that meant to solve?
>>
>>1954328
It's to reduce print times at the expense of line thickness.
>>
>>1954331
> at the expense of line thickness.
From what I can tell it's for lines that are set thinner than the rest, making them print via speeding up the head with the same flow, instead of reducing the flow.

so the flowrate is the same at all times and instead of a reduced flow during the thin lines, it just goes faster.
>>
>>1954335
Ah, I think you're correct that it only speeds up for lines thinner than the nozzle diameter. Could pose issues if you're already printing very fast, though. Especially in the Y axis.
>>
>>1954299
>Apparently the "Pro" isn't worth it
It's not? Was thinking about getting >>1954129
>>
>>1954401

From what I saw the upgrades on the Pro seem to not be worth it, no. Compared to upgrading it yourself.
>>
What filament would you suggest to make a windshield washer nozzle? Cheap nozzles cost like 15 to buy. Wouls nylon work well?
>>
Has anyone made a fleshlight? Asking for a friend.
>>
>>1954388
yah sorry if I wasn't clear asking, I could tell what it does but I didn't know WHY you know

I guess maybe if your printer has trouble changing flow rates without screwing things up?
maybe a way to mitigate nozzle pressure problems?
>>
>>1954441
I'm thinking about it.
For some reason, sex toy manufacturers don't make them in big boy sizes.
>>1954444
Could make a big difference with flexible filaments, now that I think about it.
>>
>>1954445
actually yah didn't even think about it. I've just been going through some of the options I've never tried before figuring out what they do trying to see if anything might make my shit just a little better in general.

That seems to fall under the "fixing a very very particular problem" option
>>
>>1954412
You are stupid. The Pro has the wider 4040 beam for the Y carriage and is much more stable than regular Ender3. Just this one feature makes the Pro worth it over the regular.
>>
>>1954314
Yes, manually.
>sequential printing seems barebones
Can't help if you don't say what you're lacking
>>
thanks to the anon who recommended I try rhino a few threads ago
>>1954441
I bet you could make a good mold, but I wouldn't want to expose muh dik to whatever's in the extra flexible filaments
>>
>>1954473
Got it to do what you needed, finally?
>>
Would you suggest buying a used 3d printer off ebay?
>>
>>1954489
What is your budget? You might be better off buying a new one. The Mega Zero is selling for 109 USD
>>
>>1954489
i don't think that would be a great idea considering they're somewhat fragile, and shipping will be expensive
>>
>>1954454
this
it's not much money to begin with, it's only like $50 more
not a fan of that magnetic bed though, waiting for a glass one to show up
>>
does anyone have any smug pepe or apu apustaja drawings?
>>
>>1954504
Google is your friend. Planning on making a meme lithophane?
>>
>>1954172
I want to see more of where this is going
>>
>>1954507
that would be pretty damn cool
unfortunately i've not been able to find any pepes or apus, outside some normal non-smug or sad pepes
guess i will just have to work on drawing them myself

i haven't used cad in ages but it would be a good skill to learn, and i do have some experience making documentation and technical drawings so it shouldn't be too too bad for me to figure out

just got my ender 3 pro on sunday and got it running, i'm quite impressed with how easy it was to get working, i was making near perfect prints within a few hours of it arriving
>>
Is the gradient infil option in Cura worth my time?
>>
>>1954479
Starting small and meshroom didn't seem to be working well, couldn't export and there were large gaps in the part I wanted to scan.
Ended up using calipers and eyeballs to recreate one of the more angular parts and it's looking promising
>>
>>1954521
Depends on how much your time is worth
>>
QUICK: post top 3 things you wish you knew as a material extrusion AM noob

t. noob
>>
What causes the bowden tube to clog up? This is my 3rd clog in under 2 months. I changed to the Capricorn tubing after the 2nd clog. E-steps are calibrated.
>>
>>1954473
Best thing he could do is print out a mold and fill it with silicone
>>
Can ender 3 pro print with nylon without a mod?
>>
>>1954599
No you need an all metal hot end or else >>1954574 happens
>>
>>1953782
Not only I made it to the collage, I made it to the edition title. I can die in peace.
>>
How strong are electroplated prints? With copper
>>
>>1954489
Buy one off of one of the anons here. I am sure somebody would make you a custom build for a reasonable price
>>
>>1954512
>Pepe lithopanes
This is the best idea since dragon dildos
>>
>>1954658
Where is that pepe someone a few weeks ago of the dragon dildo printing?
>>
>>1954510
You will be disappointed
>>
Just took a quiz in my grad school AM class. Not fishing for answers - it was due at midnight CST so I've already submitted it - but I was just wondering what you all think an answer might be.

"Extrusion-based processes always have some level of void content in the as-deposited state. Explain why this is the case. Suggest a post processing method that might result in a fully dense structure."

I mentioned something about a resin bath blah blah blah but really what's the best way of getting rid of the voids? I couldn't find a definite answer in the literature.
>>
>>1954038
try 0.8mm linewidth, 1.0 is a bit much
>>
>>1954673
I think one of the ways it's done is by pressure-impregnation of some resin or epoxy, but I don't know what the actual process is. Maybe they soak it and then put it under vacuum until the resin seeps into the voids, I don't know; but either way, fully dense additively manufactured structures (excluding SLA parts) are somewhat of a unicorn IIRC
>>
>>1954087
making a 3D scanner that generates a point cloud is not that hard. you could generate a relatively dense point cloud using some basic electronic equipment which could be converted into a model of your tool
however it is much much easier to use photogrammetry methods or even just a ruler+cad knowledge to create these models. also since you are using metallic pieces you could run into issues with a lidar piece due to low diffusion
for photogrammetry as far as i know all you need is one of those small photography tents, a camera and a manual rotating base.
>>
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You're only allowed to use two filament colors for the rest of your life. What colors would you choose, and why?
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>>1954691
transparent, and translucent
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>>1954691
Paramount 3D's Iron Red and Hatchbox's Sparkle Blue
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>>1954704
>>
>>1954691
White and transparent.
I can then paint the white prints in any color I want.
>>
>>1954512
>>1954658
>>1954659
Lithophanes don't require cad experience. There are tools online where you can convert images into stl files.

https://www.lithophanemaker.com/Framed%20Lithophane.html

This is where I made my steamed hams lithophane.
>>
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>>1954755
I made this a while ago, I might of even posted it here months ago. Lithophanes are awesome.
>>
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>>1954756
I also posted this one here on a thread months ago. White filament is the best for lithophanes, but you can use other very bright colors or glow in the dark filament.
>>
>>1954755
We need some rare pepes!!!!!!!!
>>
This dude modified his 3D printer and is now able to machine metal with it.

Makes me wonder why stuff like this isn't more popular, considering how expensive traditional machining is, especially CNC.

https://youtu.be/x4m1RWWJElM
>>
>>1954807
You can also slap a laser on and make an engraver
>>
Found a love for my little black box again. Just getting into dual extrusion. Qidi Tech 1 with sailfish 7.8 on it.

When i try to set the toolhead offset though,it gives me three decimal places of accuracy, however when changing the offset it changes by .012 to .015 mm. My two nozzles are always off by about .01 in the x.

Im printing 3 60x60mm targets right now, but wanted to see if you all had any idea or guides
>>
>>1954807
>Makes me wonder why stuff like this isn't more popular, considering how expensive traditional machining is, especially CNC.
Because machining metal is much more involved, it means you need to withstand cutting forces instead of just the inertia of the printhead, so you need to really make a stiff and strong machine to cope. Lasers and ECM isn't as demanding, but can only really do 2D, so the kinematics of a 3D-printer are all kinds of wrong for most machining methods. 3D-printing is already CNC, though.
>>
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Me vs dirty toilet bowl
1 - 0
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>>1954818
What I am trying to say is that this might be a viable alternative for people who can't afford a CNC mill or don't have their own workshop. You can just get a chwap printer, convert it and walla, you can now machine metal parts in your living room.

So it's kinda weird that there is so little interest in this topic, you'd think the makersphere would be all over this.
>>
>>1954824
>You can just get a chwap printer, convert it and walla, you can now machine metal parts in your living room.
Cheap printers can't handle cutting forces.
>>
Does anyone have the link of the blog of the anon making the HL2 pulse rifle? Can't remember his name and I haven't been in the thread as much to see him post if he has.
>>
>>1954828
There are no cutting forces involved, watch the video
>>
NEW KICKSTARTER REVEAL IN 2 HOURS
Creality CR-30 3D print mill
LiVESTREAM:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=mnzpEh4ESXc

Background info: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1UwaWLnGmXk

Conveyor belt 3D printer for unattended mass production.
GO GO GO
>>
>>1954832
I don't need to watch it to know you're wrong.
>>
>>1954839
Fuck off timaz
>>
>>1954843
Not him, but please do watch it. It works by etching the plate without pushing against it. At no times does the nozzle push and exert a force against the plate.
>>
>>1954839
I'm a bit disinterested in it given how rough the belt surface is and what it will do to the bottom surface of the prints. The application I had in mind for buying this would probably suffer from that one downside.
>>
>>1954843
You fucking retard
>>
>>1954850
Don't feed the bugmen
>>
>>1954824
>walla
input discarded
>machine metal parts in your living room.
That would be a huge mess.
>you'd think the makersphere would be all over this
CNC routers have a place, but they're not all that well suited for working metal. The Stepper motors used for 3d printing aren't a high enough torque rating for CNC routing. And the guideways used aren't strong enough to handle the backlash or loading either. It requires linear guides with more rigidity and alignment.
>>1954847
>I don't know what side-loading is
>>
>>1954854
>>I don't know what side-loading is
No u. Seriously watch the video.
>>
>>1954854
Anon, just watch the video instead of making an ass out of yourself. The process used is called electeochemical machining, basically electroplating in reverse. At no point do the cutting tool and the workpiece touch at all, so there are zero cutting forces involved. A 3D printer can easily do it, as was demonstrated in the video.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrochemical_machining
>>
>>1954860
You saw it move almost no material in an hour anon
>>
>>1954863
Well, it's better than not being able to machine metal at all. Also it's more a proof of concept, a higher current would mean faster cutting.
>>
>>1954860
>electeochemical machining
or "eroding" as we call it in the real world.
Commonly used to process tool steel for injection molding in contours where you can't reach with CNC milling.
>>
>>1954866
Not really, the sort of tolerances you get for the time spent, you are better off doing it by hand
>>
>>1954871
You can cut all sorts of weird shapes with it quite accurately, no way you can do the same with hand tools.
>>
>>1954875
Since it's clearly your video, why don't you do something useful with it and come back?
It looks like shit to me, I'm not going to wait 4 hours to cut abstarbinto a thin piece of metal
>>
>>1954888
Not my video, I'm just interested in the technology and was hoping to find more projects like this one. Unfortunately there is almost nothing out there.
>>
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Tried out some cheap nozzles I got off ebay. Came out really nice, maybe even better than the stock nozzle.
>>
>>1954839
Christ that stream is such a cringe party.
Its like a teleshopping show with a chinese host on meth.
>>
>>1953782
What's a decent entry level printer I could buy this black friday? I'm mainly looking to print motor mounts for my rc planes.
>>
>>1954914
Ender 3 Pro or V2.
>>
>>1954839
If there's anything that really stands out about this printer it's the way the stuff is printed.
I was expecting the belt to move forwards and backwards kind of like in a bed slinger, but instead it just makes layers at an angle and the belt only moves forwards. That's actually very neat.
About the rest of the features, it doesn't seem to be anything too special. It has dual 4010 fans for layer cooling but they're equipped with the same worthless ducts you see on Ender 3s. The hotend fan seems of a similarly trash design that would blow air on your prints.
Also is that belt even heated? The way I see it this is only useful for PLA or other materials with minimal warping. Something like ABS would probably come loose before the end of the belt.
>>
>>1954931
yea I'm very sceptical regarding bed adhesion and bed longevity. Lets wait until first reviews come along.

>equipped with the same worthless ducts you see on Ender 3s.
Come down. The Ender 3 ducts are fine. Never had the need to change it. Thats the last bit I would worry about regarding this printer.
>trash design that would blow air on your prints.
So what? Barely matters. If you can't get good prints out of the stock Ender 3 you are doing something wrong or received a faulty machine.
All these duct upgrades are so esoteric where hardly anyone does a real comparison with identical gcode. And some who did compare it found that it had only little effect or none.
>>
>>1954940
The problem with the stock Ender 3 duct is the dinky little part cooling fan very difficult to find a replacement for. You need the various ducts to use the more accessible fans.
>>
Is this normal
While my CR-10 max is getting ready to print, a bit of filament comes out. The extruder doesn't seem to be running, either. When I take it off manually, more seems to come out. Is it just because the filament is expanding as it heats up?
>>
>>1954963
Also FUCK WHY WONT THE FIRST LAYER STICK
>>
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Ever have that feeling?
>>
>>1954963
It will always leak once the extruder is hot enough, thats why it does a deposit line in the beginning and you should use the skirt option in the slicer to get an even flow before starting the actual print

>>1954968
>Also FUCK WHY WONT THE FIRST LAYER STICK
Which filament? First layer height, bed temperature, fan, brim/skirt are options to play around with. Tell us your filament
>>
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>>1954972
PLA through a 0.8mm nozzle, and yes the skirt option seems to have remedied the problem. I cleaned off the board with alcohol and set the nozzle height lower, pic related is current progress of a benchy
>>
>>1954940
>The Ender 3 ducts are fine
No, the stock 4010 duct is trash and because the fan is mounted a tad too high the air goes towards the silicone sock, not the print you're supposed to cool. This is not obvious though because in a stock E3 the air the hotend fan blows on your prints dwarfs whatever that puny 4010 can do.
>So what? Barely matters. If you can't get good prints out of the stock Ender 3 you are doing something wrong or received a faulty machine.
Ok bro, see if you can print ABS with a stock E3. No warping allowed.
>inb4 easy bro just turn off part cooling
Yeah, that's the problem, part cooling is never completely off because the hotend fan runs all the time and it blows air past the heatsink then down and out, right towards your print. PLA doesn't mind, but PETG will have shit layer adhesion and ABS will warp 9.9.
>>
>>1954981
how do I fix this? I'm still trying to get my brand new e3p to work. just ordered some aqua net upon recommendation of a friend
>>
>>1954983
Print a proper fan duct in PETG.
>but PETG will print like shit
The first version will be shit, but use it to bootstrap a second better version.
>>
>>1954090
Sorry man, plastic is too weak for any kind of bit
>>
>>1954983
Time for the daily shilling of the reverse cooling duct.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531

Print the first version in PETG, use that to print a better one in ABS.
>>
>>1954986
thanks

>>1954984
I have a kg of abs right now, what PETG should I get? or is it all the same
>>
>>1954976
>0.8mm nozzle
Only ever used 0.4mm nozzle, not sure if a larger nozzle can be runnier but its likely quite faster
>>
>>1954986
anything else I'm lacking with my e3p you think? already learned from the other thread that I need to upgrade the firmware to avoid thermal runaway.
>>
>>1954989
You can print straight in ABS then, just know it will warp a lot, especially around the slot for the part cooling fan. That's how I did it at first.
You can also try taping it with aluminum tape like this guy here did
https://youtu.be/QvyesgYLwQk?t=210

>>1954994
I also recommend this Z motor spacer:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230

Other things that are not must have but nice:
Z axis knob:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572466
Bed level locks:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203563
An extruder knob so it's easier to see what the extruder is doing. I used this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3116871
A nice cover for the LCD circuitry:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3302814

For more neat stuff you can just search on thingiverse, there's a ton of cool or useful stuff you can find for the Ender 3.
>>
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>>1954993
%45 into the benchy, have had no problems with it. The stringing on the side is from the skirt, acceptable losses
>>
>>1955002
that's nice anon. It takes a few days to get used to it in the beginning, there's a lot of slicer options and each filament is different
>>
>>1954998
neat. also, my Z microswitch metal bendy thing got snapped out of the housing, so I had to put it back in. now I'm worried my z zeroing won't be consistent. is there a good upgrade for it?
>>
>>1955010
You can get a BLtouch so you won't have to level the bed yourself. That also acts as a Z endstop.
>>
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Will an ender 3 in my home office be too noisy and distracting if I am using it when I am in the room?
>>
>>1955013
Nah. But do print yourself some feet and fan guards if you don't plan to upgrade to a silent board soon.
>>
>>1955013
not if you upgrade the board to an skr mini
>>
>>1955020
>feet
you mean to replace those dumb rubber things on the bottom of the extrusions?
>>
>>1955028
Indeed. Alternatively, you can put it as-is on a thicc slab of stone if you happen to have one around.
>>
>>1955031
my board housing is lower than the extrusions, can that be fixed? otherwise year I'd put it all on a chipped cheap surface plate or something
>>
>>1954956
>The problem with the stock Ender 3 duct is the dinky little part cooling fan very difficult to find a replacement for.
Well you kinda don't need a replacement in the first place.

>>1954981
Why am I getting such good prints out of it smartass?
>print ABS with a stock E3
Why would I want to print ABS in 2020? I can print PETG, TPU and PLA no problems
>inb4 beeing a figurine sperg who gets high of acetone smoothing
just get a resin printer man

>but PETG will have shit layer adhesion
entirely made up. Went through kilos of PETG no problem.
Pic rel just one out of many examples. PETG bike bottle holder. The expensive Elite™ brand one snapped so I made my friend this one. He used it on may tours and prefers it over the bought one.
>>
fuck you guys, you're making me poor. just ordered some PETG and bltouch. stop recommending me upgrades ahhhhhhhhhh
>>
>>1955041
>ordered PETG and bltouch
>now poor
wait until he gets his first gf
>>
>>1955036
>Why am I getting such good prints out of it smartass?
Because you're only printing shit that requires low temperatures.
>Why would I want to print ABS in 2020?
For the high temperature resistance. If you don't require your parts to stay solid at 100C then that's okay, you do you, but I'm using ABS for shit I want to throw in an engine bay. PETG will get soft around 80-85C so it doesn't cut it.
>muh figurines
I could do that with PLA and a 0.2 nozzle. No point in doing 3d printer gymnastics to print such shit in ABS.
>Went through kilos of PETG no problem
Ok, so how are you so sure that you're getting good layer adhesion?
No, "they didn't break" is not an acceptable answer.
>>
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Looks pretty good, but what happened at the end there?
>>
>>1955050
Looks like overheating to me.
>>
>>1955050
>>1955051
Lot of thermal mass into a tiny chimney at the end. The PLA is likely printed at a too high temp, might also explain why you have issues with a runny extruder.
>>
>>1955051
This desu
>>1955050
Increase minimum layer time to 10s, and if it's not enough keep ingreasing by 1s
>>
>>1954829
There's like 3 of them at this point but the only one I bother following is https://www.antalife.com/
>>
>>1955049
>Because you're only printing shit that requires low temperatures
Your claims become more desperate.
Pic related is a >200g PETG print @ 260°C nozzle and 80°C. Its a tent rack for another bike packing friend. Flawless
(I printed lots of PETG at 260°C. swapped the brand recently for a lower temp one, because the previous one isnt available anymore)

>PETG will get soft around 80-85C
It difficult to make a general claim though. Different brands vary greatly regarding print temp. So maybe try a higher temp specified one.

>Ok, so how are you so sure that you're getting good layer adhesion?
To be fair I'm a fan of printing slow and hot. I don't print PETG over 30mm/s. Just werks
>>
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I 3d printed Make Anything's Tippi Tree board game.
>>
>>1955049
>ABS
>100°C
>high temp resistance

>laughing in Greentec Pro at 160°C
>>
>>1955132
>$70/kg
No thank you. I'd rather get polycarbonate at that price point
>>
>>1955139
>$
>laughing even harder in european
>>
>>1955141
I converted it to local currency, deal with it
>>
>>1955116
>PETG print @ 260°C nozzle
Fair enough, I guess that's one way to deal with the shit fan.
>try a higher temp specified one
I would if I could. Seriously, I'd print in something like ApolloX if it wasn't 100 european pesos per roll in my country. Anything slightly fancy or brand name costs double what you see on amazon or other places. The only filament I can get that comes in the prices you'd expect is some no name crap that comes with no box, no company name no nothing. Just the vacuum packed roll with a bit of silica gel inside. It's probably some china sweatshop export but that's what I'm using because it's only 20 euros per kg.
>To be fair I'm a fan of printing slow and hot
Yeah, that's how I print my stuff too, but trust me, that crap fan design isn't helping. If you hold your hand under the nozzle you can feel how much air is blowing on your print, and having the layer cooling fan on barely makes a difference.

>>1955132
>>1955139
>$70/kg
Ayy lmao if that one was available here it would probably cost over 150.
>>
>>1955151
>try a higher temp specified one
Well the one I used was actually specified at 255°C nozzle. It was M4P PETG first recipe. They changed it now for a lower temp recipe. It was somehwere 25€/kg or so.
I'm now using Spectrum PETG but it became unavailable too. Das Filament PETG is rather low temp so I try to avoid it.
>>
Has anyone tried this chinese modded mosquito for 2-in multi material?

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000502710296.html
>>
>>1954042
>bulging
>belt is loose
hot
>>
>>1955258
>Ender-chan gently brushes her fingertips up and down the edge of the nice, warm bed as she hums sweet nothings to you.
>As you approach, she slowly splays open her legs, stretching her short skirt as far as it'll go.
>"You're not going anywhere", she says as she clasps her legs around your waist.
>>
>>1954839
>naomi wu
lol. get lost, dipshit
>>
>>1954907
cheap nozzles wear out super-fast. report back after the next spool.
>>
>>1955297
I'd take cheap nozzles over no nozzles any day.
Also the cheap nozzles don't break in the hotend when I try to remove them.
>>
>>1955287
>You feel an intense burning from her crotch
>Don't worry anon, I'm only at 190c
>The scent of burning sugar fills your nostrils
>The temperature keeps increasing, she's grinding too hard!
>Your nuts burst into flames as ender-chan bottoms out while printing on your rod
>S.. Sorry anon! I passed QC I swear!
>89.9WDIY reporting; local anon dies in house fire late last night, fucked by hot Chinese garbage.
>>
>>1955300
It was coming along well but you just had to blow it with those last 3 lines.
>>
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>>1955299
>I'd take cheap nozzles over no nozzles any day.
"something is better than nothing"
not an argument.
>Also the cheap nozzles don't break in the hotend when I try to remove them.
slightly more expensive ones don't break either.
cheap nozzles are cheap for a reason: they're not machined well and simply can't push out a consistent amount of filament.
if you don't care about quality, cheap ones are fine for most things.
>>
>>1955302
Two different authors, two different directions.
>>
>>1955303
I've broken 4 Creality nozzles in the hotend so far and most people here agree that Creality nozzles are at least decent.
I bought some dime a dozen shits from Ali and so far I did not break any. They do string a bit more but I solved that with slicer settings. All things considered I'm okay with a slight decrease in print quality if it means I don't have to convince a broken nozzle to come out of the hotend with a hammer and a screwdriver.
>>
>>1955303
Why does the cheap one look so blurry compared to the expensive one? #nozzlegate
>>
>>1955307
larger internal diameter => more blur due to shallow dof.
>>
>>1955303

I've looked down the bores of some of my cheap nozzles, and, while they work fine, I honestly have no idea how the fuck they manage to make them so incredibly badly. I'd have to TRY to drill/bore a hole that wiggly.
>>
Someone post a good meme or image, and if I like it, it will be a 3d printed lithophane. I want to use the remainder of my white filament.
>>
>>1955324
This one gets my vote
>>
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>>1955321
>I honestly have no idea how the fuck they manage to make them so incredibly badly
I'd imagine it would be more difficult to make them all wobbly like that instead of straight.. LOL
I think what's going on is that the machines they're using are not rigid at all so when they bore nozzle blanks, there's a massive amount of play. and the tooling must be worn out too. that's why they look so shit.
and this wobbliness translates to shit prints too.
another thing that's noticeable about cheap nozzles is the internal angle. it's way more obtuse/wide than E3D nozzles which obstructs the flow as well.
finally, cheap nozzles have a chamfer at the end of the nozzle which contributes to over-extrusion and unevenness of lines.
>>
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>>1955326
This is what I got. Panning around, the text look like it wouldn't print without supports. I'm going to pass on this one.
>>
>>1955334
I found a image I like. Jogging Pepe.
>>
>>1955333
>E3D nozzles
Ok shill
>>
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Hey guys, i just got a preliminary setup of my home built SLA printer, its pretty cheap too.
>>
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>>1955347
Even had it in a different mount
>>
>>1955347
>>1955350
Looks ghetto as shit. Love it.
>>
>>1955347
any examples of prints?
>>
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>>1955359
>>
>>1955368
looking good!
how did you build it? any guides? BOM?
>>
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Anyone tried 3d printing a mouse or a trackball?
>>
>>1955373
Not yet. Sounds like it'd be a fun project to buy some shit optical mouse and convert it to a trackball.
>>
>>1955373
That's pretty cool, but why the fuck is it using that ancient usb port
>>
>>1955394
>ancient
USB-B still has its uses. It's way more robust than Micro and a little less fiddly than Mini.

Also probably because it was cheaper and that's a custom PCB.
>>
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>>1955375
I'd really like to build a trackball but for cheap. trackball balls are like $10 and the shell should be easy to print.
electronics is the expensive part. even in kit form it's over $150.
>>1955394
>>1955398
all of this plus it's easy to solder. it's a trackball, afterall, so it's stationary and doesn't move so the size is irrelevant.
>>
>>1955045
>wait until he gets his first gf
Are you sure this is possible?
>>
>>1955339
We can change the world with these
>>
Does anyone use a trackball for cad?
is it easier than normal mouse?
>>
>>1955400
>even in kit form it's over $150
Might as well just buy an MX Ergo at that price
>>
>>1955414
Why would it be?
>>
>>1955414
I use a spacemouse
>>
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Printing time soon. A buddy of mine does model trains and needs a replacement part for a smoke stack, they don't make them anymore.

I think I'm getting semi decent at solvespace too.
>>
>>1955448
hope you are going to cast it or make it out of metal if it's going to have any real heat on it.
>>
>>1955458
No no heat, it's purely decoration. Anything that actually has "smoke" is just little fog generators. This is for model trains after all, they're all plastic.

I'm going to print PLA and then paint them.
>>
>>1955461
You charging for this?
>>
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>>1954907
Got the duct on and it's working well. Had to up the bed temp to 70 to get things to stick though. Also printed a temp tower and was able to bridge at 225C, but had a lot of blobs/oozing on corners.
>>
>>1955477
PLA? that's gonna melt away.
>>
>>1955480
Yeah I know, but whatever I'll see how long it lasts
>>
>>1955471
Nope.
>>
>>1955484
>I'll see how long it lasts
not long.
use that new setup to print something more permanent out of PETG or ASA.
>>
>>1955333
>the machines they're using are not rigid at all so when they bore nozzle blanks

The thing is, why would they bore them? It's faster (read: cheaper) to drill them, and an accurate hole is CLEARLY not required if that mess works at all. What the fuck ching chong logic is going on here?
>>
>>1955512
>What the fuck ching chong logic is going on here?
Doing it wrong is more crucial than doing it cheap. It is part of their creed to go out of their way to actively fuck the customer, even if it's more expensive.
>>
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>>1955339
>>1955407
>>
on the list in OP- I was curious about getting the mega S.

will this be able to printe tpe?

I really want to print flexible/rubbery material.

ty in advance for any help, ive never used a 3d printer before.
>>
>>1955448
>solvespace
Just checked it out, looks interesting. New version coming real soon too. I'll try it out as soon as I can!
>>
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Is there some cheap SBC that can run OctoPrint? RasPi 4 is expensive and rarely in stock. Is there a cheaper way?
>>
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Anyone here build a mini RPi arcade cabinet? Looks like a fun project.
>>
>>1955537
Get RPi 3 B+ for $40
>>
>>1955448
>>1955532
Solvespace doesn't support lofting, right? That makes it less then ideal for any complex shape.
>>
>>1955565
>Solvespace doesn't support lofting
I don't actually know what that means.
>>
>>1955571
it's just an advanced modeling technique. if you can get by without it, then by all means just continue enjoying SS.
>>
>>1955404
>>
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>>1955571
Loft is where you take two or more cross sections and then create a surface that goes from one shape to the other
>>
I have all the parts to make one. I might as well design my own
>>
>>1955061
That's the one! Thanks!
>>
>>1954839
holy shit, the kickstarter gained 630k$ in one day
makers muse was in the lottery of the live stream, but I think he didn't win
>>
>>1955347
I'll never not laugh at how the peach printer crashed and burned.
>>
>>1955627
Not surprising. Reducing the time between prints, as well as the ability to make very long prints are two of the main issues people have with the current selection of printers.
I'm not going to be their beta tester, but I do see myself buying or building a similar setup in the coming years.
>>
>>1955627
fuck off Timaz.
>>
>>1955632
who tf is timaz
>>
>>1955627
Effective marketing of the "look at mah tits" PR program
>>
>>1955538
I've designed arcade usb controllers with my 3d printer, but never designed my own arcade machine with cad software, so I came up with a very rough idea.
>>
>>1955640
Angle the back wall/top so that you don't need to print supports.
>>
>>1955642
Good idea
>>
>>1954545
>Lower z
>clean the build plate
>dry your filament
>>
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>>1955538
No but I am improving on my old fight stick design.

For anyone doing anything arcadey, slagcoin has a ton of info / drawings for button layouts and such.
>>
>>1955523
impressive. the world is ours!
>>
>>1954820
You are going to spray shit everywhere
>>
>>1955128
That game is genius. The dude is going to make a fortune.
>>
>>1955303
I highly question the authenticity of this image.
It should not be used for general assumption.
>>
>>1955634
Timaz is the white guy behind her operations. She is just a mascot.
>>
How unsafe is a mains powered bed?
I'm looking into building a Voron 2 and it uses mains power for the bed heating.
>>
>>1955745
Assuming it's properly grounded and connected, with a good solid state relais in between: pretty safe.
>>
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>having sticking problems with my stock ender magnetic bed no matter how well I cleaned it
>got a piece of glass for a bed, still didnt stick that great
>got a pei plate
>the prints are so stuck I had to spend 10 minutes getting the part off
>>
>>1955775
I don't know how you guys get such bad adhesion problems. I have a shitty monoprice prusia i3 knockoff that's quite literally 6 years old and I have NEVER EVER replaced the heated bed sticker. It's all scratched up and dented and worn and everything pops off fine.

Get a putty knife and a file and sharpen the end of the knife, wiggle it back and forth under it and everything will come right off.

can provide pics if you want.
>>
does anyone know how I prevent black/purple goo coming from the threats from the heatblock? I tightened it to the max but it keeps coming. I have to wipe it every 30mins or it will drip to the nozzle and fuck up the print
>>
>>1955729
any sources to back this up?
>>
>>1955783
Are you not using a PFTE tube?
>>
>>1955785
yes there is an PFTE tube inside
>>
>>1955780
I ruined my stock ender plate. I ran out of alcohol to clean it so I decided brake cleaner should work too.
fucked it right up.
>>
>>1955784
Lurk moar.
>>
>>1955780
This but with creality glass.
Everyone told me to use glue when printing ABS so it won't warp off. I decided to try without glue first.
>fuck how do I get this shit off now?
Basically I've never had any problems with shit not sticking, it's usually that they stick too well. I use glue when printing PETG so I can remove my prints without breaking the glass.
>>
Looking to get a printer that make mold/casts for candle/soapmaking?

Any advice?
>>
>>1955819
The Ender 3 will serve you just fine. There are fancier options out there but they also cost more.
>>
>>1955783
loosen the nozzle a bit and screw the throat in more
check for a cracked block too
>>1955775
same, I think when I scraped it with a sharp blade some yellow/brownish stuff came off, at first I though it was dirt but now I think it was the coating
>>
>>1955825
Is the bed leveling meme real?

I don't want to be spending all my time doing that.
>>
>>1955826
thx I will try it tomorrow
>>
>>1955827
bed leveling is just moving the hot end to the four corners and putting a sticky note underneath the nozzle until there's drag
>>
>>1955827
It is but it's fixable. Print bed detents.
>>
>>1955805
I have never ever cleaned my build plate. Not even once. Everything comes right off with a sharpened putty knife.
>>
>>1955805
I used brake clean to remove thermal paste from my cpu. It worked great. Don't use it anything that isn't metal...
>>
>>1954090
you would need to use the printed bit for a casting positive
>>
What are the printer requirements for PVA?

If you can print PLA you can print PVA?
>>
>>1955868
Why would you want to print PVA?
Are supports that hard to remove on your print?
>>
>>1955878
Making silicon molds to pour into. My idea is to

Print mold.
Pour Silicon.
Put in water.
Then have mold.

Now i'm using PETG and cutting with a saw like an animal.
>>
Is $349 for the CR-10 v2 at the Creality store, like the webshop, not the Aliexpress store, a good price? They have the black friday sales coupons out already: ZPSB02
>>
>>1955883
If your silicon can handle 60C then you can print PLA and then soften it up in the oven to remove your silicon.
PVA is very demanding in regards to storage because it's much more hygroscopic than nylon even. Any exposure to moisture and the filament will start disintegrating on the roll.
If you really want to use some soluble filament you can go for HIPS, or ABS if you're really poor.
>>
How safe are PLA fumes? Say I'm printing 8 hours a day, then open the window all night to vent it, is that enough to avoid harmful levels of exposure when I return to work in the room the next day?
>>
>>1955913
Why wouldn't you just keep the window open during the day while printing?

PLA stinks like shit. I'd just have an enclosure.
>>
>>1955913
>How safe are PLA fumes?
Not proven to be bad, but can still be noxious and cause a headache. Don't stick your head in a dedicated printing room for too long.
>>
ANYCUBIC Mega-S for 299 CAD?

Worth? IS that a good deal?
>>
>>1955913
>How safe are PLA fumes?
It depends on the dyes and additives added to it. PLA by itself is not harmful at all if you're not burning it. If you are that concerned then opt for a cheaper brand that offers undyed PLA.
>>
>>1955927
It's windy, drafts fuck my prints up. Should get an enclosure maybe.
>>
Is it possible to print indented text on the bottom face that is facing the bed? i only want it to be like 0.1mm i wonder if it would work or not
>>
>>1955983
Yes, that's a standard feature on every Benchy. Doesn't always come out pretty though, and you need to check that your slicer correctly processes it. Make it as thick as your first layer, to be sure.
>>
>>1955627
Isn't that the Y axis?
>>
>>1955927
Really? I've only ever printed PLA+ from a few manufacturers and it gives off almost no smell at all.
>>
>>1955883
>>1955891
>silicon
Guys. Come on. Don't do this.
>>
>>1956011
You're made at the spelling of "silicone" lol?
>>
Anons any thoughts on pic related? Some guy on ebay is selling a bunch of these as customer returns for something like ~$110 a pop. It's the Flashforge Finder.
>>
>>1956054
Look at the shipping price.
>>
>>1956061
it's ~120 with shipping but I wouldn't want to buy into a closed eco-system. I thought i'd ask here because someone might own it already and could weigh in.
>>
>>1956068
>closed eco-system
Is it worth saving on upfront costs to get milked in the long run?
>>
>>1956054
it's garbage
>>
>>1956017
>You're made
Trolling is a art
>>
>>1956068
>closed eco-system
you can literally replace everything. and that price is amazing if true.
>>
>>1955661
Well deserved, that guy is a real artist.
>>
>>1956147
there are openbox returns pretty regularly on ebay listed "as is". I saw it the other day for $85 + $27 shipping. I bought a broken Monoprice Select Mini V1 for $60 + free shipping. It just had a broken extruder mechanism.
>>
>>1956170
You're going to upgrade parts anyway, as long as the break isn't catastrophic and you have a lick of sense, buying "as is" is a pretty good idea.
>>
>>1955784
stop asking retarded faggot redditt tier questions
>>
>>1955927
>PLA stinks like shit.
Only if it is the contaminated Chink shit fake PLA
Real PLA has little to no odor
>>
I got 2 wanhao i3's (open box) from microcenter for 80$ each, so check their website if ur into that or whatevfer. They were basically unused, like someone did a print then returned it lol.
>>
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Defaced some fine art so it would print in vase mode
https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/art/sculptures/le-reveil-cut-down-for-vase-mode
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Is this product a meme or legit?
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>>1956249
you will have the same results with a sponge
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>>1956249
it's legit but you can print your own as well. I've printed one and run it all the time.
I've also added a drop of oil to the sponge.
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>>1956252
>>1956254
Nice gonna try it now
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>>1956268
here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190118
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>>1956313
>A filament dust filter that can be attached after you've already loaded the filament into the printer. You know, for people who always forget to do it before. You know who you are.
Spamanon here, I printed a couple of threaded sets and just store the filament rolls with them on
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>>1956318
>threaded sets
( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153807 )
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>trying to get PETG all fucking day
>layers keep splitting mid print
so many attempts...
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>>1956339
>plebbit shit
you have to go back bud
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>>1956361
what are you talking about? the PETG?
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>>1956339
Are you using cooling?
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>>1956374
yeah
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>>1956375
Don't
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>>1956327
threaded offers no benefits. snapfit is so much more versatile.
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>>1956379
snapfit offers no benefits. threaded is so much more versatile.
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>>1956170
>>1956192
Having spare parts is always a good thing.
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>>1956399
snapfit offers so much more benefits. threaded is no versatile.
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>>1956418
threaded offers so much more versatile. snapfit is no benefits
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My printer has been sitting motionless for about 4 months.
Do tension belts get fucked from not moving or continue to wear while under tension, or would they not stretch out unless they were over-tensioned?
Probably should've asked this 4 months ago so I could've disconnected the belts, but whatever.
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>>1956442
just re-tighten them. they're reinforced. you cannot fuck them up. they can last 100,000+ hrs of printing time.
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>>1956003
Actually, it's not.
The xy plane is tilted at an 45° angle. The belt advances once for every layer so technically it's the z-axis.
Yes this changes the overhang behaviour entirely.
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New Thread
>>1956540
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>>1956249
Both. Print your own from one of hundreds on thingiverse and use a sponge inside it. I've been using one since one week after getting my printer and never had a blocked nozzle since.
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>>1956236
link doesnt work anon
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Bought this clone after breaking the original hotend on my ender 3. It just doesnt work and always clogs up. Things ive done: change nozzle, tighten nozzle and heatbreak, put thermal compound arround the original heater. Upon closer inspection it looks like the molten filament is spreading in a small space where nozzle and heatbreak meet and causing a clog. I just dont know why this would be happening? Did i get a bad part? Should've just bought the orignial shouldnt I?
(cont. 1/2)
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>>1957454
(2/2)
drawing of what I think is causing the problem.
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>>1957454
>>1957455
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw
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>>1957503
thats not the problem im experiencing. the hotend i bought is all metal. I had no issue with the stock hotend, other than the fact that i fucked up the threads.
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>>1957454
>>1957455
>>1957503
>>1957512
updated my sketch since the first one didnt seem very understandable.



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