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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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Mistakes Were Made Edition
Old thread: >>1867941

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro, Anycubic i3 Mega
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
http://www.autodesk.com/
http://www.solidworks.com/
http://www.openscad.org
http://www.freecadweb.org
http://www.blender.org/

Resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0
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>>1873583
>page 3
>315 replies
>no fucking debug print reply format again
>no collage
>anycubic shill
PISS OFF
>>
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Almost done. Just have to pick up some laser cut parts for the bed and then I can start properly wiring everything.

This print head desing isn't the final one. This one had problems with bending over time deu to the force from the belts, next version doesn't have this problem and it will swappable head so I can easily switch types of nozzles/hot ends.

At one point this used to be a ultimaker original but all that is left are some of the motors and screws.
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>>1873605
Nice, how will your bed-mount work?
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>>1873608
I have an prusa bed over from a different project so it's just a standard prusa plate but made to fit these carriages. I have a friend with a laser cutter so I'm getting it cut out of black acrilic.
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>>1873605

Keep in mind I only have experience with CNM, but how in the fuck are those lead screws supposed to NOT wiggle all of your work into oblivion when they're positively reinforced by v-wheels?
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>>1873615
I have dialed them in with a dial indicator (I do this very offer with bigger mills as well) and some shims so they don't wiggle more then 0.1mm. But even if they wiggle that much it's no problem since the linear rails give so much rigidity that the wiggling is isolated at the lead screw.
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>>1873598
>REEEEEE
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>>1873605
ive been thinking about trying to design my own cnc, where did you get your 20s, china?
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I have an ender 3 I'm looking to print diorama terrain bits and pieces on. I'm about to install a 0.2 nozzle, and I'm printing at slow speeds to get the highest quality I can get out of it. Does any one have any suggestions I wouldn't usually run across? I watched a bunch of YouTube videos on guys printing stuff and using their settings got me worse results than my own settings did. I'm using basic PLA and getting okay results out of it. I don't mind doing some putty work, using filler primer or sanding things to get them looking good. I have to do that with purchased models any way

Don't suggest resin printers. I'm disabled and dealing with hazardous materials is out of the question. I bought the ender over the elegoo mars because of these difficulties.

Is there a good stl piracy site out there for /tg/ stuff? There's so many patreon limited edition models that disappear after short windows. I don't mind supporting good creators (And I have bought stls) but there's not good ways to test models out before you pony up the cash. I'd be much happier being able to print things and then if they were well designed purchase them. Like Vidya piracy where I'll pirate a game as a demo and if I played more than an hour I'll go buy it.
>>
>>1873672
There are plenty of free RPG models on thingiverse, and ways to download the preview files from paid sites.
>>
>>1872190
> However, I did flash a new version of Marlin (one of my changes was to switch from stock ender 3 to skr 1.4), is it possible the thermistor got "decalibrated" somehow?
Did you select the correct thermistor table?

>>1872231
That's the cheap 0.96in 128x64 SSD1306-based OLED? It costs literally $1.5 on aliexpress. Try to guess the bulk price…
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>>1873667
Aluxprofiel, it's a German company but is insanely cheap and very good quality.
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>>1873674
I know. It's because of thingiverse I'd like to try before I buy. Too many models with errors or that just don't print nicely. I've had a few prints they turned into spaghetti when they should of printed fine and I can't find a solution.
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>>1873714
>I've had a few prints they turned into spaghetti when they should of printed fine
That's hardly the model's fault, check your supports, walls and the gcode obtained to find obvious flaws.
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is it inadvisable to print 0.4mm width ~0.2mm height using a 0.25mm nozzle. Apart from possible artefacts in print quality will the higher pressure damage the nozzle in any way
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>>1873715
Nothing wrong with any of that it just messed up half way through for no obvious reasons.
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>>1873738
Check if your printer is skipping steps. When your motors have been running for some time they might warm up a bit and lose some steps, this can cause spaghetti.
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>>1873672
good luck, none of the STLs on the vola are compatible with >fdm
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>>1873760
>good luck, none of the STLs on the vola are compatible with >fdm
What a pile of bullshit, how are they restricted from getting printed on an FDM printer?
Pic related was printed by some Anon on /tg/ for Epic40k, those models are tiny as hell.
with the right approach you can get great results with FDM.
>>1873672
>Is there a good stl piracy site out there for /tg/ stuff?
There is, depends on what you are looking for specifically tho.
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Fits like a glove. (Just saw in the picture that I should put a washer under those nylock nuts)

>>1873721
Those are some beautifully printed tanks. He must have used a 0.2mm nozzle.
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>>1873777
Now I see how the bed mounts. Nice So thats how its normaly done on Prusas machines?
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>>1873742
It's not that I can tell. I've had very few bad prints. It was just that single model.

>>1873769
I'm just curious in general. I want to print kings of war bases with cool terrain built into them and fun things to paint. I'm wanting to do a nice bust at the moment. something like a kaiju or a demon.
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>>1873801
That's just how I do it, normally it's done like this.
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>>1873817
If you're looking for nothing specific you can just search around on thingiverse, there is tons of /tg/ related terrain and minis.
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>>1873824
I see, thanks for the spoonfeed.
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>>1873714
If you suspect a model of having problems you should be able to see these problems when you preview your g-code after slicing; the g-code cannot lie.
Run your model through Microsoft's 3D builder software and it will repair any issues which would cause bad prints due to the model itself.
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>>1873760
Is there a live vola right now? The last two I was using got nuked.
>>
How high of a temp can the normal CR10 go to? I want to print high temp stuff like carbon fiber filled nylon or zytel.
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>>1873837
I went through thingiverse busts and found hundred of budhas with different heads on. It was fucking terrible.. the upvheim stuff on thingiverse is great I bought his commercial packs. I've got my eye on building a floating kingdom in 10mm scale right now


>>1873845
Awesome. Thank you.

It was a silly test piece nothing serious so I just ditched it.
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>>1873908
Look for groups and collections, not individual things.
Most copyrighted stuff has obscured names on there, gotta dig deep.
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>>1873865
I can't remember the temps, but you can't print high temp stuff on the CR-10 until after you upgrade it to a full metal hot end. The heater cartridge will happily go well past 350 degrees, but by that time you'll have melted the PTFE tube and released some seriously toxic gasses, you don't want to be going past 250 if you can avoid it.
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>>1873923
the names on night goblin models are pretty funny

>night shift gobbos
>>
So I am looking for a relatively cheap and easy out of the box ready to go with minimal setup and I’ve seen some reviews of this China delta printer FLSUN Q5 and they all give it pretty high regards for a starter 3dp for its price tag of around 220 bucks

Anyone have it, am I being scammed by China if I order one? What do we know about banggood because amazon says delivery date of September - October and banggood says 7 days
>>
If I'm looking to print paint caddies to sit my paints in drawers what's the largest I'd want the nozzle size to be?
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>>1874048
2mm
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>>1874038
Don't get a delta printer if you have never used a 3d printer before. Also don't expect a out of the box experience with Chinese printers. A Chinese printer is as good as the amount of time you put in it.
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>>1874060
>Don't get a delta printer if you have never used a 3d printer before.
I started with a monoprice delta. Prints like a damn champ right out of the box.

>>1874038
monoprice delta. it's $50 cheaper than that chinese shit and the only mod I've done is to stick a circle of borite glass on the bed.
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How is that part called so I can connect my e3d heating cartrige?
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>>1874060
Like I’ve said I’ve probably watched 5 or 6 reviews on it and every single one has said this is actually not a bad printer out of the box and it’s not bad even being a delta printer for noobs
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>>1874070
monoprice seems to have a smaller build area than I’d prefer
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>>1873992
It has to be "night shift gobboz". With a "z", not an "s", otherwise it won't show up anything. Thingiverse is trash.
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>>1874113
Its awkward to find anything and half the interesting stuff is "here's a free finger. become a paypig to get the rest of the model".

That's why I want to find s good piracy site.
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Just got a ender 3. How hard waa ot to change the nozzle? I put the wrench on it but it was turning the whole block so i chickened out. Also was it counterclockwise to pull off?
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Mars Pro coming in the mail tomorrow, Any setup tips besides the paper leveling thing ,Painters tape on the edges of the LCD ,ditching the USB that comes with it and reslicing the rooks to test?
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>>1874128
thats what torrents where made for, violafile and telegram is nice for continual releases tho
tell you this, If I buy 3d content I'm obsessed enough to pay for I'll make sure to hook up anyone who asks as a hobby. I'm not a big fan of piracy for profit sorts of setups I've seen when I ripped models before.
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>>1874136
How does violafile work?
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>>1874158
kinda like telegram with a focus on files, multiple files can be uploaded after the first in a chat-esqe window is, so patreon or stores where people share a common interest can share their files as they are released
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Hey 3DPGuys how do you do a little doodle inside the Gcodepathing? For example, the little dog the comes reloaded onto the ender has a little 3 drawn underneath. Do you need to do it in CAD directly or is there a way to easily path the Gcode in Cura?
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>>1874162
Intradesting. How do I get access to these places?
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>>1874204
last one for warhammer stuff died (I heard), find communities on discord or reddit, dm some people who post lots of models for karma and ask them
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>>1874080
bottom looks like a ferrule, top looks like a 2-pin JST based on the other connectors
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>>1873777
that's a pretty neat way to adapt the prusa to linear rails
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I'll thinking of replicating this general design with a 400x1000 bed.
Would it be better to have the long side on the y or the x? I'm kind of leaning to have it be sideways to keep the bulk down.

Also, what sort of bed structure would you recommend? I've got a few ideas but I'm not 100% sure yet.

https://youtu.be/VXOHudgBwtM
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>>1874244
follow his design with the long x rails, a 1000x400 bed moving 1000mm is really dumb, make it only move 400
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>>1874248
Yeah that's what I was thinking, I'll also drop the other X rail as I think one will be enough for the hotend. But i still wonder how I should do the bed, it'll have to be heated so getting the heating element might become an issue.
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>>1874253
as long as you use one rail you should be fine, maybe a beefier one tho, you don't want wobble, so use lots of mounting screws
use multiple heated beds(you can buy silicone ones with adhesive for your own beds) and a relay board. you could use the fan pins to control them as heating zones but you'd need a hotend thermocouple expansion. (but by this point you should use a duet or a board with expansion capabilities, duet natively supports multiple heaters/sensors set to any compatible pin in the firmware.
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what's up you fucking nerds I just bought this thing for $250 off of ebay and I want to make a 3d printer out of it. what kind of crazy shit would you do with a compound z axis like this?
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>>1874283
cool deal. Unfortunately it won't be verry fast with all that mass. You could take non-planar printing to the max with that setup though.
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>>1874300
that looks like a printer+2axis arm project
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>>1874300
Agreed as is its a chunky fucker. I could take the whole z axis off and do a bed that raises on leadscrews if I wanted to quicken it up. Nonplanar is a good call will read up on that
>>1874304
Salvage from "a medical device". It has closed loop steppers for the x an y so it needed some precision. Maybe pick n place for samples into some tester? Idk
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>>1874308
those pick and place things have wonderful x/y speed, I used one during my biotech certification
does it still have its controller? you might want to modify the firmware for linux cnc if you have it
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>>1874310
Unfortunately all the boards were salvaged off it. Came with two power supplies and three steppers and all the physical bits for $250 though I'm not complaining
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>>1874311
thats why it was $250, that's where trinamic makes all their dough
are the closed loop steppers modularly controlled or just encoded?
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>>1874283

Good deal, but it's clearly a CNC mill, most of it is too chunky to make an efficient printer. For example you can't drive those big NEMA23 motors with tiny Pololu drivers - you need to use external ones, or a board with beefy built-in ones like the Duet3. And even then you're not benefitting much, if at all, from their extra torque. If it were me, i'd either keep it as a mill or try to scavenge the rails, extrusions, dragchains etc. for another project.
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>>1874352
>Good deal, but it's clearly a CNC mill,

>X,Y drive belts
>wobbly 1/4" plate base
>frame with no lateral support making it as stiff as cooked noodles
>tool head with a ton of electrical connections

You need to get your eyes checked. There's a complete unit in the background and that ain't no cnc mill.
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Prusa still hasn't delivered my magnetic bed so I've just printed some little cubes so I can put my old anet bed on it.
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>>1873672
For patreon, just look to furries, an anon asked a couple of threads ago and apparently yiff.party has a decent selection of STL patreons (though it's definitely not gonna be comprehensive)
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>>1873694
>Did you select the correct thermistor table?
You mean for the PID parameters? I grabbed the Ender 3 config for those. Or something else?
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>>1874313
The steppers are certainly encoded. I'm not sure if they're modularly controlled. They're Vexta brand model ASM66K-T7.2, and they're geared output 7.2:1
>>1874352
I would not use anything made from aluminum extrusions as a cnc mill unless the extrusions were just a skeleton within a big epoxy granite slab or something. The compound Z axis would also be a tramming/rigidity nightmare and I would want ballscrews on all axis, no belt drives. I understand this will not be as efficient as a purpose built corexy cube or something but it's unique and I think it's cool af and has possibility
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>>1874308
The entire gantry assembly is chonky as fuck even if you remove the Z axis.
It's definitely doable for fun, so if you have free time and want to fuck around go right ahead, but it's not optimised for 3D printing.
>>
I'm looking to get into 3d printing to print my own 6mm minis for epic Armageddon. I see you've got a list of recommended SLA printers in the OP. Is there any reason to choose one over the other? Also, while I'm asking stupid questions, has anyone bought a refurbished 3d printer instead of new? A seller on ebay has a refurbished mars pro for 180, shipping included. I'm wondering if that would be a bad idea to pick up as a first printer. Sorry if I missed a link that answers these questions.
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>>1874409
Don't get a resin printer as your first. You can print epic stuff fine with a 0.2 nozzle. You should also get a kit you self assemble so you understand how it works. There's loads of fiddling and mechanical tinkering you will want to do and it's better to know the machine. I was going to buy a pre built one and was recommended not to, understood why after I'd finish building it. I knew how to adjust things and correct small imperfections. Would of been nice if the machine base was better put together so it didn't take me several hours because the fan cover was too far over and I thought I was messing up not the cover needed moving over. The place I bought from signed my email and phone number up to a bunch of spammers as well.

>Think printer sounds a bit funny
>Check around the bed
>Notice the wheels on the bottom of the bed have loads of plastic shavings on them
>The wheels are slowly eating themselves inside out.

Is this normal? Wtf is going on? I know ender 3s are cheap chink shit but still.
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>>1874416
FDM epic minis are alright, but the layer lines bug me like you wouldn't believe. I know jumping in headfirst to a resin printer is probably going to make my life harder in the short run, but I'm really not interested in FDM for minis.
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>>1874391
PID parameters control when to turn on and off heating to reach and hold the temperature readings on desired level. PID parameters have nothing to do with incorrect temperature readings.

Temperature readings are controlled by thermistor tables. Such table is a set of points: ADC output and corresponding temperature.
Take a look here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/Marlin/src/module/thermistor
This data is used to estimate temperature from ADC output.

The pic shows how voltage changes with temperature for some particular circuit and sensor.
This obviously depends on the sensor and at least one resistor on a board that is in series with the sensor.
When you swapped the board, you may have changed a part of temp-measuring circuit that is on the board.

Although Marlin is a terrible spaghetti patchwork of code, it is pretty well documented how to set this up.
You need to set "#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 XXX" to a nonzero value XXX that selects proper table for your hardware. There's a reference here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L359
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>>1874416
>don't get a resin printer as your first
Why not? I don't own a resin but from everything I hear they're far less fiddly than FDM.
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>>1873583
It's absolutely fucking hilarious that the printer got its shit together and finished the top of that print
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>>1874443
That has also happened to me, made me snort.
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>>1874428
Thanks for the explanation, yeah, makes sense.
According to both https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro/Configuration.h and https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/blob/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4/Firmware/Marlin-2.0.x-SKR-V1.4-Turbo/Marlin/Configuration.h my firmware should be correct, yeah (using thermistor preset "1").
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>>1874439
I'm guessing it has to do with the workflow of a resin printer. Once you print you need to wash the minis in isopropyl alcohol and the UV cure them. Plus resin is a liquid that's a skin, eye, and lung irritant. So it's less idiot proof that spooled plastic filament as far as material safety is concerned.
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>>1874463
I mean sure but FDM just lacks that completely, so when you get your first resin printer you're gonna have to deal with that for the first time regardless of whether you have FDM experience or not. So I still don't see why one should start with FDM before getting an SLA.
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>>1874439
Resin is really dangerous to work with and most people aren't going to handle it properly. It's something you fuck up and can end up dead or seriously injured from. 3d printing technology in general is cheap crap made in China then sold at a premium. Given a few more years the technology will refine it's self into being user friendly and safer. Systems that print and cure resin internally instead of making you smosh around buckets of hazardous chemicals

Resin is also dangerous to work with. You need to wear a mask (a mask, not the dumb shit corona masks people think protect them from fumes). And goggles while cutting or sanding it. Failure to do so results in either lung cancer long term or scarring lungs short term. I've heard stories of guys not handling resin models properly and getting lung damage from it in a single night. Resin was always a dirty cheap option for hobbyists to produce models quick, cheap and high detailed. It's not something the average person should be messing with on a whim.

As an experienced autist making models there's few things harder to work with than resin. If you're just learning the ropes and getting your set up sorted resin adds multiple difficult steps to deal with. If you're printing shit for epic scale models or your DnD nights you're better off using FDM because no one gives a shit at that scale or just putting dudes in the table. Risking your health to print pin head sized space wizards is stupid. Get FDM print off your shit and by the time it's painted on the table no one's going to see the lines. Especially if you get a smaller nozzle.
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>>1874471
First printer you're going to print loads of dumb stuff on. You're going to find cool paint racks you want. Upgrades to your printer or a really cool paint brush stand. Printing that in resin is more expensive and hazardous for no real benefit. It's like buying your first car. You get something cheap and reliable in you can have a few fender benders in before you buy a nice car.

There's nothing wrong with having that nice resin printer for making models. If possible I would have one resin and one FDM printer and use them to compliment each other. Your first roll of filament is going to print a bunch of shit you had no plans on printing when you bought it. You browse thingiverse and go "Oh hey I want that" and end up printing it off as you adjust your settings. Everyone does it so to may as well plan for it then buy the specialist printer at a later date.
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>>1873927
So I need a e3d or a microswiss as an upgrade?
>>
I was looking to get a cheap printer, as in under 300, that I would just be using for terrain. do you guys have any suggestions?
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>>1874515
ender 3 v2, v1 if you want to save money
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001022496028.html
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>>1874386
this is nice
>>
So glass beds. Got one, started strong, now everything pops off about an hour into a print.

Hairspray? Glue? Nano-polymer Adhesive? Increase bed temp? Mix my own filament with iron particles and replace my glass bed's underside with every single one of my extra magnets?
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>>1874518
Whats the difference between v1 and v2?
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>>1874578
>Updated mainboard with silent TMC2208 stepper drivers: Compared to the Ender 3 and Ender 3 pro, a V2 design that delivers users out-of-the-box experience and silence-oriented upgrades(quieter 3D printers).
>A new screen with updated easy to use interface
>New Heating Element Enclosure.
>Smart filament sensor and resume printing.
>Easy filament feed function.
>X and Y-Axis Belt Tension: quick and fast adjustment. and better to improve dimensional accuracy.
>Y-Axis – 4040 Aluminium Extrusion: The Y Axis has been replaced with a 4040 extrusion, the same as the Ender 3 Pro.
This gives greater stability to the Y Axis over the original Creality Ender 3.
>Nozzle and Toolbox, convenient and tidy.
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>>1874568
Clean it thoroughly with acetone.
>>
If you want a resin printer for fine detail and delicate prints, just get it first but do a lot of research. I spent so long trying to dial my FDM printers into that perfect Goldilocks zone for 28mm tabletop models and the very first prints I got off of my Mars blew them away. Get water washable resin if you don't want to worry/can't get ahold of isopropyl alcohol, get some rolls of paper towels, a proper UV curing light, a box of nitrile gloves, a quality p100 respirator (good luck these days) and some goggles and you're good to go.
Plenty of info on YouTube on proper handling/processing, honestly it's not as bad as some fearmongerers would have you believe. Just don't be fucking stupid and you won't win stupid prizes.
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>>1874515
Just got my ender 3 and it prints terrain great. Here's a ruin I threw some paint on
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>>1874598
Just don't ever have an accident or your carpet needs to be entirely removed. Don't forget to open a window or you can Holocaust yourself..

Give it a few years and resin printers will become enclosed and functional consumer devices. As it stands now they're hobbyist novelties that need to nature as a technology. We're just starting to see screens made for them instead of reusing smart phones screens..FDM is starting to see compact prebuilt high quality machines so resin ones will slowly mature as well. We'll move behind cheap crappy work around a to functional machines that just work. Same way computers refined into game consoles.
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>>1874219
Thanks anon
>>
I need to convert a CATPart file into any god damn thing else so I can print/manipulate it. All of the stuff I'm pulling on is paypig mode. I have to be missing something that doesn't have a loicense on it right?
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>>1874644
>Same way computers refined into game consoles
Lol, is this your brain on /v/?
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>>1874644
>Same way computers refined into game consoles.
What in the fuck
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>>1874778
>>1874796
Chillax /v/. He's just making a reference to the convenience of a console. Imagine not having to worry about how a project will come out, just plug it in and go.
>>
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>>1874283
sell it on ebay and buy a 3D printer
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First big problem. Monoprice Mini Delta. Printing gray PLA no problem. Switch to gloss red PLA for a few prints, no problem. Switch to gold PLA, have some layer adhesion problems, crank temp up a bit, gets real stringy but prints fine (1). Switch back to gray, reprint same model at same elevated temp for direct comparison. It fails(2). All indications are the filament stopped advancing. Everything looks fine (3) but the extruder is clicking and the PLA is bouncing and not advancing. Preheating and manually feeding it as if changing filament only extrudes a bit but nothing else. Pull back filament a bit, nothing. Use nozzle tool for first time and poke back to filament. Seems clear for several inches (back out filament and needle advances). Remove filament, end is melted, looks normal (4). Cut at 45º and reinsert. There is a slightly tough part to get it through a few inches back from head, like I'm pushing through wet paste maybe, but the filament advances without much force so I don't worry. Did this while preheating, at temp manually feeding does nothing even when pushing hard enough to bend filament only releases the tiniest bit of PLA. There seems to be filament in the tube (6) and nothing foreign. Remove and the end is melted but frayed (7) not smooth.

Preheating and advancing the extruder via menu just makes extruder click, the filament jumps but doesn't advance and PLA doesn't extrude. Upon manual inspection the tip is hot. Printing goes through the motions but deposits nothing. I returned to my normal heat setting (190º, had been printing gold at 200º but the gold extruded fine at 190º)

So I'm pretty sure the filament is hung up but it seems worst than is possible, comes back out fine and is heating but won't extrude. No visual problems, I just wan to know what to start tearing into or testing instead of just beginning to remove things hoping I'll find something obvious.

What are my steps to determine the problem? Where do I start?
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Redpill me on these chink 3-in-1 hotends.
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>>1874867
You a big gay
I have multiple printers already and want to fuck around
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>>1874283
Lucky bastard.
I'd find a way to slap a die grinder on it.
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>>1874644
>We'll move behind cheap crappy work around a to functional machines that just work. Same way computers refined into game consoles
But the cheap crappy boxes are the consoles, you fucktard.
>>
>>1874877
Download for the one in purple and the one in the middle (right to purple girl)?
>>
Ok, so I`m stupid:
>change steps per mm with M92
>save with M500
>power cycle
>settings are lost
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>>1874964
did you make sure the settings changed with m503?
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>>1874974
No, I just checked on the small screen of the printer.
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>>1874977
worth double checnking the value is actually being changed before you m500
otherwise you could try re-flashing the firmware then m502, changing settings again,then m500
>>
How hard is it to make upgrade parts for warhammer models on these things. im not talking space marine shoulder pads thats easy. I mean how hard is it to make something that is exactly 5mm by 3mm that would fit into a kit during assembly. Is it possible to be that precise?
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>>1875047
Yes
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>>1874778
No. It's your brain on someone who was alive at the time. Early computers compared to a master system or nes is a world of difference. it's nothing like today's PCs were and things didn't drastically improve until the late 90s with windows xp. Printers today still use dials and buttons. Technology forgotten even to basic phones. It's all way out dated and will slowly improve. The pursa models are starting to get there and are the first signs of a mature technology instead of a hobbyist one.

What's the best way to flash ender 3 firmware? I'm seeing kits on eBay you plug into a computer and switch out one plug on the printer. Other tutorials are for single wire connections. I'm leaning towards the kit but want to ask for advice before I do it.
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>>1873583
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Currently converting my anet A8 to the am8. I'm also looking to install a new board with trinamic drivers but I don't really know anything about modifying/changing firmware. Any recommendations for a board?
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>>1874923
You people know nothing. The NES and master systems ability to smoothly scroll a screen was completely out of reach for PCs of the era. They couldn't display as many colours and had poor input devices. This was during the keyboard only era of PCs. Mice were a novelty and not made standard until windows 95 took off. Then while windows was maturing and becoming a work environment the PlayStation hit. Which could do 3d graphics way beyond the PC tech of the time. PCs then started to add graphics cards to catch up to the consoles of the era. PlayStation 2 and DVDs, ps3 and Blu Ray. PC is constantly playing catch up to consumer electronics. That's why PCs are a hobbyist machine and a console is a mature technology. It's not until the last few generations where the technology has stagnated that you see PCs being the forerunner over consoles. But even then the price of hobbyist parts and functionality are still sketchy. If you want a recent example for those who just hit puberty SSDs have just crossed the line. The hobbyist could have one if they made four times the price of a HDD for a quarter of the storage. Now they're refined enough to be used in consumer electronics (consoles) and to compete with the price of a HDD. And even if you want to argue PC is superior, it's at this point a consumer machine more than a hobbyist one. Windows is a consumer friendly OS, Linux is a hobbyist one. If you understand that comparison you will understand why one is a mature technology and the others a gimmick people use as a hobby or exception.
>>
>>1875079
bigtreetech skr boards are pretty good and affordable
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>>1875080
What the fuck did I just read?
Jesus Christ.
>>
sure is /vr/ in here
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>>1875098
Something you don't understand.
>>
>>1875080
There has been a long time since I've heard such a compilation of bullshits.

I had no interests in computers before Win 3.1, but all starting from that time you write about is wrong.

> Mice were a novelty and not made standard until windows 95 took off
Mice were standard at the times of Windows 3.1, UI of most programs at that time was designed to be mouse-oriented.

>Then while windows was maturing and becoming a work environment
Windows 3.1 was already a mature work environment with a large choice of software (much larger than nowadays - for instance try to name five word processors nowadays).

>PCs then started to add graphics cards
PCs had graphics cards from when I remember.
To be honest, I never saw (apart form museums) a PC running without a graphic card.

>PC is constantly playing catch up to consumer electronics. That's why PCs are a hobbyist machine and a console is a mature technology.
Console is a dedicated hardware for one purpose - games.
PCs are not built for games. Ability to run a game is just one (and not a major one) feature looking at the market. PCs are workstations and for some time were web browsers.

>If you want a recent example for those who just hit puberty SSDs have just crossed the line.
SSDs became a mature technology when the technology allowed the manufacturers to guarantee long time data retention. This happened a decade ago.

>if they made four times the price of a HDD for a quarter of the storage
That's stupid to compare prices for a different class of hardware. Tapes would win in your comparison. Tapes are still the storage of choice in many cases for a reason.

>And even if you want to argue PC is superior, it's at this point a consumer machine more than a hobbyist one.
You say that PCs are inferior to what? To consoles? Do you mean "consoles are better to play games than personal computers"? Who would have guessed that for games hardware made for games is better than hardware made for other purposes!
>>
>>1875142
Stop responding to bait.
>>
Early consoles weren't really trying to compete with computers, they were competing with arcades. Console hardware was closer to arcade machines than computers and a shitload of popular titles were just ports of arcade games.
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A bit of help here if possible.

I'm relatively new to 3D printing. Changed nozzle recently and since my prints are coming out crappy or warped. I've levelled the bed god knows how many times but it seems not to change. The flow seems fine but adhesion seems fucked. Is there something I'm missing or is my levelling just off?
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>>1875142
>>1875165
>be me
>1984
>get c64
>plugs into TV
>later CRT become a thing
>later flat panel become a thing
>be one day before HDMI was as common as pubic hair was when I grew up
>want to plug my computer to TV
>takes an expensive shitty adapter
>be now
>TVs are more powerful computers than our first 286 IBM compatable

also the mouse was invented before 1968 you mongoloids
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>>1875222
level the head closer to the bed
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>>1875226
I thought it would be this. Cheers for clarifying.
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>>1875222
>Changed nozzle recently
bingo.
Not all nozzles, even from the same pack or manufacturer aren't exactly the same and won't screw in exactly the same distance. I level my bed with every single nozzle change (or in my case, change the z-offset on my bltouch).
>>
gamer tip:
lots of people with miscalibrated ABL distance and the "prevent moving outside axis limits" safety settings (won't allow negative z babystepping) should change the 0 position slightly lower than the paper gripping point because even if you hand level the ABL sensor will force the nozzle z up higher.

god I speak english and even I cant understand what I wrote back there
okay you have your ABL, it touches the bed while the nozzle is a certain distance above, you set the offset in firmware usually by hand homing then probing the point and calculating the difference.
the problem is when you use the ABL for homing, as the sensor triggers where the bed is, not where a fixed z home switch is, so if you adjust the bed in order to have the nozzle lower for a print, the ABL will reset it on the next homing. When negative axis values are disabled, you can't baby step that difference; so if your paper homed offset is too high, you won't be able to get a good squish.
by just increasing that offset by one/two millimeters, then using babystepping to move the nozzle back home, you can babystep without disabling safety features that can break your nozzle AND you can do things like nozzle swaps without having to redo the offset for a minor change in nozzle height.
>>
There any way to send files to a cr10 without using a sd card?
>>
Any people who are into this hobby who are engineers? collegefag looking to pick up some hobby here
>>
WHY IS THINGIVERSE CRACK HOING AGAIN??

REEEEEEE

thing viewer not available for new designs even after 6 hours
number of collections gone in my design overview
website stutters like mandingo anal
image compression seems to be completely out of whack now
>>
>>1875222
is your nozzle screwed in tightly? after you screw it to the hot end you need to heat up the nozzle and then tighten it again while hot.
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>>1875338
you're supposed to do the whole process hot, waiting for the nozzle to heat up before tightening
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>>1874130
This guy is the best for ender 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPAs-DzgOWM&list=PLCTBNjIRCuG-Dh2cvK3TXYmwjAacRgDBo
>>
>>1875330
why the fuck would it matter if someone is an engineer doing a hobby?
>>
>>1875222
How are you leveling your bed to the nozzle? From the picture, it looks like your nozzle is way too far away from the bed. There's no way you have that a thin paper sheet distance from the bed at zero.
>>
>>1875222
You should keep it as it, and put blue painters tape down and see if that helps compress the first layer. If it does help, your bed is too far away from the nozzle and you have been leveling it wrong.
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>>1874964
As a last resort you can put your desired steps per mm in your start gcode if it isn't saving to the printer.
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>>1875330
I am, but how is that relevant?
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If I want to create a tight fit hole with a through pin what should I allow for a tolerance on the pin if the print is done with the circular profile on the XY plane? The wall thickness?
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>>1875412
.125-.25mm, if your printer is well-calibrated and depending on the size of the pin
>>
>>1875413
It is reasonably well calibrated, it's just the standard E3 CR-10 with a .4mm nozzle. Probably about a 5mm dia pin.
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>>1873849
Diff Terrain and Mini Madness right? I'm still looking for the re-up too as well.
>>
Has anyone checked this out? Seems sketchy af but damn, if I wouldn't use it lmao
https://3decode(dot)xyz/index.html
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>>1875416
Just in case, would be useful to make a hole gage so you can see what size hole you need without printing the whole part. Something like pic related.
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Why am I seeing these 'waves' in my first couple layers?
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We did it boys, first try
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Is there a support builder that can build vertical supports between models?

I've got some models, 28mm figures to be precise, that I want to print in vast quantities. I can fit 6 on my plate, but I'm wondering if there's a way to add another row and have supports build out to them from the previous layer. And if itd fuck up the previous layer or be too heavy

Anyone had experience with this?
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>>1874283
now that I physically have it couple interesting things. the secondary Z axis drives this set of 8 plungers. I'm guessing it drew samples from vials for setting up GCMS specimens or something.
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>>1875480
it's got a secondary y axis too, on rack and pinion, that looks like it just clacks a plastic block into the plunger unit. Maybe to shake stuff loose? Anyways the whole Z head is gonna get nixed and replaced with something lighter to save weight. Also have to figure out a solution because the bellend who put up the ebay item can't run a tape measure and it's 2 inches longer than advertised and won't fit in the enclosure I have for it.
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>>1875448
Slightly too close
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>Listen here resin boy, Im gonna print out my wife and Im gonna paint her better than you so count your days in the sun while youve got the time
>>
>>1875337
Fucking 500kb file size for pictures, yet hundreds of MBs cool for stl filesize, real priority shit.
>>
>3d printer arrives tomorrow
Can't wait
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>>1875554
what printer
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>>1875557
Cr10 v2
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>>1875531
if it only was 500kB for images.
Thats just the upload limit. Once on the server, the images get crushed to something 30kB for the normal webview. My fotos look like shit.
They also have a horrible hickup regarding portrait aspect ratios and previews.
>>
>>1875477
It might be possible but it'll inflate print times a lot compared to printing that batch directly on the bed.
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>>1875629
And they STILL haven't fucking made it possible to fullscreen the images without some shitty workaround, IIRC. You can get the original quality by changing the URL though I think
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>>1875482
>>>/toy/
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>>1875637
>>
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>>1875640
You're very slowly getting better at this, only a few more months and you'll reach tabletop quality, but painting is very unrelated to this thead.
Wouldn't these 7 months of work have been better invested in trying to clean up your place and getting a job?
>>
>>1875643
Why would I need a second job if the first one is enough for my house?
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Note to self #1: when this happens, then the bed is moving with too much resistance.
Note to self #2: at the next disassembly do mark left and right rod and their rotation.
Note to self #3: chinks happen to ship precise rods that are not straight.
(At least this failure looks hypnotizing.)
>>
>>1875311
Yes - USB cable. Printer appears as a virtual serial (COM / RS232) device, it readily accepts g-code.
Then run any g-code sender, e.g. Repetier-Host - see more here:
https://reprap.org/wiki/CAM_Toolchains#RepRap_Drivers
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>>1875713
>https://reprap.org/wiki/CAM_Toolchains#RepRap_Drivers
>RepRap
>RapeRape
RAPE APE
>>
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>tfw you enjoy the CAD more than actually using your printer
Anyone else feel this way?

>>1874386
Fun vase.
>>
Holy shit trying to make some simple geometry in blender in order to sculpt it is absolute cancer. Why do freetards never make things simple?
Does anyone have ant experience of making a rough model in a CAD package and then sculpting in blender? Any issues with this approach or am I on the right path?
>>
>>1875330
yes and it's amazing because engineering school never taught us where to source anything and being able to finally produce my own prototypes is a fucking godsend.

also get a fucking internship. change schools if you have to. no amount of classes or knowledge replaces the value of an internship in engineering.
>>
>>1875467
the real test is the first time your shit fails.
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>>1875745
hol up
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>>1875330
Aeronautical and aerospace engineer here, you'll learn more useful stuff from /3dpg/ and /mcu/ than from the college, but the title is the title.

Also what >>1875772 said.
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>>1875477
>turn off snap to build plate
>change supports to "everywhere"
>arrange however suits your fancy
>slice
>print
>???
>then realize why nobody does this
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>>1875480
>>1875481
>needs to take kids to school
>buys a dump truck
>it'll be fine because there are enough seats
>what's all this extra stuff that makes the bed tilt
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>>1875745
someone isn't using Fusion360

>I used to enjoy the CAD too...
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>>1875774
Just your standard 3d-deprinter.

>>1875781
Why would I want to use an inferior product?
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>>1875778
My sides...
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>>1875745
>right picture
Oh no.


Never really got into the swirls and stuff like that.
>>
Alright bois I'm cashing out, I've had my fun tinkering but I've printed my last benchie.
Gonna list my shit on craigslist or something.
How much should I charge for:
Ender 3 parts, Anycubic Linear Kossel parts, working ender 5 and a duet upgraded working anycubic predator that needs calibration?
>>
>>1875889
About tree fiddy
>>
Hey guys, anyone has an idea on why my Elegoo doesn't save the bed calibration? I did all the steps of the calibration correctly, hell even the rook came out amazingly nice, but for some reason, the calibration was never saved and the next time I tried to do a print, the plate presses against the screen and keeps trying to go down, making a BRRRR sound due to pressure probably.
So I do all the steps again and set the axis to 0 but when I start a print, again the calibration isn't saved and starts pressing the bed again.
The process is also random, sometimes it'll work, sometimes it won't and I have to do the calibration process again hoping this time the set Z=0 is actually saved.
Anyone knows what could be happening? I kind of fixed it by loosing the screws, starting a print, wait for first layer, pause, tighten the screws. But it's far from ideal.
>>
>>1875745
Vase op here. Yes! I don't even print that often for myself just for other people. But I do love 3d printing new 3d printers and the design process behind it.
I'm at my 4th printer now, but I already want to do my own take on a Cartesian style tool changer.
>>
>>1873583
i need to build a gearbox which can reduce somewhere between 5:1 and 8:1 (not sure yet) and handle 300-400 watts at 10-15k rpm on the input shaft. can 3d printed spur gears handle this without overheating due to poor tolerances and shitting the bed? i need it to run for at least a few hundred hours.
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>>1876019
print it with TPU, those give best results
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>>1876033
isn't that flexible? that's the last thing i want.
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>>1875745
Yes, the printer is a tool for me. I don't get the people who endlessly tinker and rebuild and upgrade obsess over every little feature of their printer. If you're pushing for quality, just get an SLA machine at that point and save yourself the hassle. Being able to CAD stuff and hold it in my hand an hour or two later, now THAT'S the appeal for me.
>>
>>1875780
that's a pretty good analogy for my fuckaroundiness here
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>>1875768
>trying to make some simple geometry
>rough model
>Any issues with this approach
What fucking approach? There's a thousand ways you could do this, how is anyone supposed to help if you don't provide any examples of what you've tried?
>>
Anyone have a flsun q5? Wondering what you think of it
>>
>>1876019
As a proponent of 3d printing strength, insomuch that I print guns and stuff, I would not say that a 3d printed part is gonna be strong/durable enough for this job.
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>>1876092
fug. maybe i'll just 3d print in the housing and do a 2 stage gearbox with off the shelf nylon spur gears from rc cars or some shit.
>>
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So how do I mitigate these lines? this was my second print ever.
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>>1876107
sandpaper
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>>1876112
Oh okay so its not cause I set something up wrong or suction from my FEP is causing the build plate to wobble?
>>
>>1876107
Print at a lower layer size, like .03 or .025. you'll need to reduce your exposure per layer as well. Or you can try playing with Chitubox's new grayscale + blur + antialias combo.
>>
>>1876054
Not at all.
>>
>>1876019
Looking at the accuracy of gears in the cheap market drills you can give it a try.
A couple of ideas:
- print it from PA (nylon) or at least PET-G - ABS sands away at high speeds, PLA softens at 60°C,
- consider a planetary gear (see na example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1049401) - it can withstand larger forces without breaking
- consider aluminium lost PLA casting
>>
>>1876092
Any time something isn't suitable for what you need just print a mold and then cast it in a better material
Or look into electroplating/chemical plating
>>
Elegoo Mars, frist print, rooks sticking to fep. Where do I start?
>>
>>1876260
Level your bed.
Increase bottom layer exposure time.
>>
>>1876275
Apparently rooks on the included thumbdrive might suck, gonna try a different model and do the settings correctly. Bought some ptfe spray too,just in case.
>>
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I got a voxel/ flash forge adventurer 3 for$300.

First printer, wanted to print extra strong parts from abs... rather than pla on an open frame chinkbox.

How bad did o fuck up
>>
>>1875745
Yes
Built a reprap a couple years ago and I'm just now almost done with a second spool of filament.
I've used openscad to design gears, threads, and even played around with parametric boobies, lawl

>>1876062
Same here. Had to clean the carburator on my chainsaw yesterday. Everything I could find on the needle valves said start with about one turn. They were set at 2 and 2.5 turns and it ran fine a couple years ago the last time I used it. The damn adjustment screws are thumbscrews with a head about 4.5mm in diameter, 4mm tall and accessed through a 7mm hole about 50mm deep. WTF? Couldn't even reach them with hemostats.
Set them at one turn and made a tool like a piece of tubing with a tapered hole on one end and an oval handle on the other end. Worked like a charm and took me about 20min to design, 20 minutes to print. About the time it would have took me to disassemble and reassemble the thing to change adjustments. Turned out to be the 2 and 2.5 turns.
>>
>>1875768
I dabbled with blender a couple years ago. Seems to me that one of the greatest tools for sculpting would be the subsurface modifier. That modifier requires that the model is made with quads. I think that most cad models with triangles
>>
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>Install V6 hotend instead of Lite6
>hotend now always jams after 20 minutes

Why does it do that? I've lowered the retraction to 2mm
>>
>>1875889
not worth much at all desu
should have bought a prusa so that instead of spending 90% of the time working on the printer you spend 99.9% of the time actually making shit with the printer
>>
>>1876362
Probably because you didn't assembly it properly. Completely take it apart and:
>Install thermistor
>Install heater cartridge
>Screw in nozzle all the way
>Retract 1 turn
>Screw in heat break
>Tighten nozzle against heat break
>Install heat sink
Done. Most problems with the V6 come from people not butting up the nozzle against the heat break.
>>
>>1876367
Please die.
>>
>>1876368
Not him but doesn't the nozzle not screw all the way into the v6? Swear I remember a video by prusa detailing this.
>>
>>1876376
the full turn creates that gap
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>>1876376
>Not him but doesn't the nozzle not screw all the way into the v6?
No. If the hex you use to screw it in butts up against the V6 heater block itself, this means there is a gap between the nozzle and heat break and then it WILL leak.
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>>1876388
>No. If the hex you use to screw it in butts up against the V6 heater block itself, this means there is a gap between the nozzle and heat break and then it WILL leak.
I got a v6 clone and in any case when the nozzle is not tightened to the heat break the heat block is wobbly, so it's hard to miss that you did something wrong.
I usually first tighten the nozzle to the heat block, then turn the heat block until it tightens to the heat break.
The only time when something leaked is when I did not tighten it after switching to higher-temp material (PLAPA).
>>
>>1875768
Use voxel remesh. Or pirate zbrush and use dynamesh like a normal person
>>
There are so many conflicting guides. Do I screw and unscrew nozzles while hot or cold? Ender 3 hotend if that matters.
>>
>>1876458
metal expands when it's heated, what makes sense to you?
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>>1876458
Only ever install/remove/adjust nozzles when hot. If you have crap in the threads (which invariably happens), it softens when heated. Aluminum expands more than brass when heated, so unless the nozzle is tight to the rest of the assembly, if you install it cold, it's almost guaranteed to loosen and leak.
>>
where do you guys buy your resin? about what price do you get it at?

for SLA printers

i got 1 liter for about $45 usd, but i'm worried i might have overpaid. hard to find a seller that isnt out of stock of every color or charges double the price in shipping
>>
>>1876632
Only just started resin printing, but that seems about right for elegoo from amazon.
>>
>>1876632
It used to be $40 for 500mL, count yourself lucky. Amazon's been good to me so far, just stick with resins that have a decent amount of reviews and aren't obviously shills.
>>
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So yeah, the Elegoo is pretty great although calibration is tricky. Sent an email to them and they told me my limit switch might be faulty oh well, gonna have to dissasemble the machine and check it myself.

Pic related, Yharnam hunter from Bloodborne I ripped from the game files and fixed topology/increased polygon count with ZBrush
>>
>>1876694
if you ripped the game files, look to see if you can also rip the textures. see if theres a "normal map" or "displacement map"

then look up a tutorial on converting a displacement or normal map to geometry. should give the model a lot more detail.

video game models convert all high detail polygonal data to specific types of texture map images, and in the engine those images make the model look detailed, but only use a lower polygon wireframe for the actual model.

if you can get those maps and reverse the process, you can get a much more detailed version of the model that more closely resembles the in-game detail.
>>
>>1876698
Fucking nice tip. Gonna check it out, should be way easier than trying to fix the model in Zbrush. Thanks man.
>>
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>>1876716
yeah, no prob. dont know how familiar you are with zbrush, but when game developers make a model for a game like a character they use the subdivision levels in the geometry menu. the highest detail is sculpted on the highest subdivision level, say level 5 or 6 (your 10 million polygon zbrush model), while the base model that is actually used in game is at level 1 (usually well below 100k poly, sometimes as low as 500-1k for indie type models).

when they export it to be used for a game engine, they export the level 1 model for rigging, animation, and use in engine, and export level 6 as a normal or displacement map, which is then applied via shader in the engine. in the engine, the normal map tells the light which way to bounce, so the model will always look like the high poly version everywhere except at the edges of the silhouette.

you are basically trying to reverse that process. pic related illustrates what's going on. normal maps will look like that grey-ish purple image
>>
>>1876737
Ohh makes sense. That's why the Yharnam hunter looked incredibly low poly huh even though it's a PS4 model and looked beautifully in game. Dunno if people managed to rip the displacement and normal maps from the game though, gonna check it out with the tool the main ripper provided.
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>>1876368
Thermal expansion creates a gap large enough for filament to get into and clog the nozzle.
>>
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>>1876698
thanks anon, I think I'm gonna go backt p ripping ffxiv now that I know how to get more detail
>>
>>1876759
Do you have any good guides on ripping FFXIV NPCs? The only one I've found is a 4 year old reddit post for FFXIV Explorer.
>>
>>1876698
I use this same method for embedding diffuse maps (converted to a depth map using whatever program suits our fancy, some will use edge data others will just make the image b/w) so I can get textures embedded instead of painting on faces for toonshaded games
>>
>>1876694
This guy here. My limit switch is not working and that's the reason why I can't calibrate and I have to calibrate it manually after the print starts and it's already submerged in resin lmao.
I bought it from Amazon. Should I just ask for a replacement of the whole fucking printer?
>>
>>1876814
Sounds like a lemon. If you buy something new and it doesn't work, that's a defect in manufacturing. If I were you, I'd refund or return.
>>
who has the best tutorial for meshmixer?
>>1876698
>>1876694
also how do I learn to do what you guys are talking about? like the Lydia videos? also what kind of a build would I need to do high detail models like this or just fiddling with high detail stuff? I ant to learn it for myself. I got some ideas no one else has ever made and I want to get them out of my head and on the table top.

my FLGS owner has a elegoo mars he is willing to part with for cheap to make space for the Saturn. I want to make minis on it for SPECTRE: OPERATIONS, from COD, Far Cry, and whatever I can learn to get out of the files of games. I'm not looking to sell them just make a few for myself and friends for sheer trolling purposes. I will mostly use the printer to make very very lewd scale models of some of those fan made videos using the game engine of the female characters being risque on up to tentacles in places God never intended.

I have a feeling that running a bespoke waifu model service would pay for hte printer.
>>
>>1876823
Sent an email directly to the Elegoo Mars support and they replied, gave me a file to run, some instructions. Did everything and it didn't work. Told them I'm not feeling like getting a replacement for a limit switch of a new printer.
Waiting for the reply, depending on that I'll replace the printer with a new one since Amazon just does it.
>>
>>1876871
>Told them I'm not feeling like getting a replacement for a limit switch of a new printer.
did you confirm it's working? It's a switch. It either works or it doesn't.
Not fixing the part if it's broken is retarded. If it's the issue, fix it. If not, then you can complain.
>>
>>1876313
considering every ABS part I've printed has sheared, I'd say bad unless it can handle nylon.
>>
>>1876871
>>1876885
nah, I'm with him. you shouldn't have to take apart a brand new printer and replace a switch. just return it and get one that isn't defective out of the box.
>>
I'm trying to SLA print dice for masters and it's driving me up the walls.
If I try printing them angled, they always end up slightly contorted and parallelepiped.
If I try printing it planar, the face with the supports ends up warped and rounded, but not in a way where I could sand excess off, instead shit's just MISSING. I've already noticed on some prints, especially angled discs, that the first few layers seem to just go missing and I end up with a disk that has has a weird flat top, and maybe it's the same problem here, but I can't figure out the reason.

I'm on a Photon and I already figured out that the problems are way worse with white resin. With grey, the planar prints are still completely fucked but the angled ones are only slightly parallelepiped. Playing around with exposure times has helped a bit on the white, not so much on grey. What am I fucking up here? I just want cubes that look good to the naked eye.
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>>1873583
Pls help! I just got my first 3d-printr (a Creality ender 3) but I can't print anything made by myself because stuff doesn't want to stick to the plate!
The strange thing is that happens only for the stuff I make; pre-defined models always turn out just fine, but whenever I try to print my own ones they never stick; I even tried messing with the Z-offset value but to no avail.
What the fuck?
>>
>>1876993
Either try a brim or use a glue stick on the plate.
Also try cleaning the plate with iso before the glue. Oils on the plate mean it usually won't stick. Pre-defined models usually use better first layer settings like 150% layer height, 150% layer width, very slow speeds etc.
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>>1876698
>>1876716
>>1876737
Made this a while back to print detailed treebarks.
>>
Is there any point in FDM printing anymore? A friend let me borrow his cheapass resin printer and oh my god it's so much better
>>
What an absolute retarded question.
>>
>>1876993
have you considered sharing some information so maybe anons could see whats wrong with your models? like close /d/ and google how to screenshot your slicing app.
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>>1877038
>Is there any point in FDM printing anymore?
Clear yes here. I got both FDM and SLA. I print moslty functional pieces where the high resolution of SLA is unnecessary and preffer to just use the printed part without having to do any post-processing.
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Banner contest here I come.
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>>1877038
there is more to printing than cranking out coomer models
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>>1877056
Like stronger and more precise parts for prototypes? Because that's what the SLA brings
>>
Sure it’s just a nut and bolt and it came on the printers sdcard but it’s pretty satisfying out of the box print
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>>1877077
Also it's faster and seems to be a lot less finicky
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>>1877077
PLA always felt more durable to me, but maybe I'm wrong.
>>
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your days are numbered paintlet
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So should I be hearing my FEP release when it prints a new line? It sounds like a drum getting tapped, is this a good thing or a bad thing?
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>>1877027
veiny benis
>>
>>1877038
>large models
>quick prototypes
>cheap material
>impact strength
A bunch more, but yeah, there is.
>>
>>1877181
you forgot no chemicals no curing little mess
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>>1877181
more and more widely varied materials
flexible and rubberized materials
multicolor prints off the bed

I mean if you're going to respond to bait, you might as well be complete
>>
>>1877144
Everything I've read leads me to believe the "sticking" noise is normal since that is in effect what is happening, but the resin is sticking to the FEP less than the build platform/the rest of the model
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>>1877189
>flexible and rubberized materials
you can get those with resins these days as well, they're just a pain in the ass to print (at least on the Form 3)

>respond to bait
After seeing how fucking dumb the world is over the past year, I have no idea what's bait, what's trolling, and what's genuine stupidity anymore
>>
>>1877144
>>1877190

Yes, that's normal. That's why you need to ensure good buildplate adhesion, otherwise the part can get detached from it when its being peeled off the FEP.
>>
>>1877181
>>1877188
>>1877189

I find the resin to be less of a mess and even with cure time it's faster. The resin I'm using hardly has an odor and it beats the sound of a printer anyway. Post-processing is at least something I have control over instead of finding out a day and a half into a print that something hitched up with the filament/extruder/hotend/enclosure temperature, or bearings for a millisecond and ruined the whole thing.
>>
>>1877038
Structural or mechanical parts, utility parts, large parts, material requirements.......
Yes is the answer.
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Any thoughts on resin printers? Pic was apparently made with one (or 5) and it got me curious.

Also how much do you suppose it cost in consumables? $45 would be my guess but I honestly can't tell
>>
>>1877301
>Pic was apparently made with one
I'd like to see the details on that claim. It certainly would be possible to make something like that in multiple small parts, but I can't see any seem lines that should still be there.
I suspect what is more likely is that a 3D model was cut up with indexing features. printed and reassembled, then cleaned up, gap filled and blended in to create a master for resin casting. In that case the resin printer is simply usurping the role of the traditionally sculpted clay model but the final product is still not directly printed.
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>>1877310
Pic is from the sculptor's Twitter
Yeah I didn't mean it was done in one go, look at the parts behind the figure, they include tabs to fit together.

My shock comes from the surface quality and detail (that armor, the face, the hair), never knew such detailed prints were possible.
>>
>>1877301
Even without painting this looks magnitudes better compared to the garbage we used to see from our resident retard.
>>
>>1877317
Yeah resin printers get that kind of finish. Even cheap ones
>>
anyone print wood filament? if yes what kind of detail are you able to get out of it? also, have you tried sanding and staining it?
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>>1877227
good for you champ. I bet your step-dad is proud.
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>>1877317
welcome to club coomer, coomer
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Let me show you how its done
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>>1877301
Depending on if it's hollow or not, that would probably cost anywhere from $25 to $150, ballpark
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>>1877395
when people post pics they should mention the size of the objects they made. it would help put into perspective how much room is there for detail . for instance yours looks like a table top figure but i dont know if you made everything custom or if your adding to existing collection. you could be doing everything at 1.5 times scale for all i know

this would allow people to understand the limitations of their own 3d printer set up and adjust where needed to get the level of detail they want even if its a little bigger than the original concept
>>
>>1877449
its 100mm and thats what the STL was
>>
>>1877038
FDM printers are cheaper for the same size, I think it's less work, and I've read SLA parts can be irritating to the skin eg if used for headphone plugs. Also, not everyone needs the fine details or smooth surfaces. Then there are FDMs with multicolor support. For very small parts I think SLA would be more interesting, but FDM should be considered to be the to go standard.
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>>1875076
Literally my first thought
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>mention 3d printing (pla) to co workers, they are interested, show them little bits every now and then
>old fella goes and buys a resin printer without saying anything
>"do I need to wash the prints?"

Oh god he's going to poison himself
>>
>>1877542
Resin is amazing, but it's also a chore. Handling the fucking resin is a pain in the ass, gets everywhere and you can't just wash it off if it gets in you. I mean, the result is completely worth it but damn. Also, add like 100 bucks extra from the curing station + materials and you have to consider that resin is like 40% more expensive than filament plus buying Isoprpyl Alcohol and nitrile gloves constantly. I've seen that there's water washable resins now but still.
>>
>>1877588
Based boomer not giving a shit about the safety warnings.
>>
>>1877590
I want you to repeat after me: you do not need isopropyl alcohol.
https://youtu.be/tnGasVwkgMk
Add LA's Totally Awesome cleaner to that list. An ultrasonic cleaner is at least a strong want if not a need (a cheapo jewelery cleaner will do; it's what I use).
>>
>>1877635
No, but IPA is easier to dispose of, you just let it evaporate in the sun which also cures all the residual resin. With other stuff you can't just pour it down the drain.
>>
SLA anons, I have a question. I've just had a print fail because the z axis stopped moving (still works manually); is that not unheard of? Is it just a corrupted file? I'm new to resin printing and I don't know how to troubleshoot it like I would Gcode.
>>
>>1877665
I had that happen to me once. In my case, it wasn't the file; I just restarted the print.
>>
>>1877661
I expose my used to sunlight for a few hours, filter the plastic, and toss the rest down the toilet. Planet has yet to die.
>>
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>>1877696
>>
>>1877635

Not everyone has access to those shrek-coloured cleaners they sell over there in burgerland
>>
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Ive had fails with this head twice. First I tried without hollowing cause im using water washable and ive heard there are issues, second time I hollowed it but it snapped off the supports. Not an issue of sticking to the build plate but the model is falling off the supports.

any tips for getting it to print properly?
>>
>>1877635
huh, I've been using simple green to strip paint off of old metal miniatures for years. I would have thought that would make it too harsh for resin.
>>
>>1876694
>I ripped from the game files
How did you do that?
>>
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rate my new invention
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>>1877890
Needs a spot to grab onto where the spout won't drip on your hand while carrying but pretty solid otherwise
>>
>>1877890
Do you have stl for a 1 person version? I dont have friends.
>>
>>1877893
Just do what I do, don't bother with the shot glass.
>>
New to 3D printing and nabbed a Creality CR-10. Set it up and everything seems fine except for the extruder, the extruder gears push the filament OUT instead of pulling it in. Anyone knows what could be causing this?
>>
>>1877966
Connector might be flipped. I don't have a CR-10 so I don't know if the socket is polarized/will fit that way. Check with another stepper to see if it rotates the same way.

Make sure the power to the whole printer is off before you ever do anything with steppers, otherwise you'll probably fry the board.
>>
>>1877969
Ohh I see, will try that, thanks!
>>
>>1877890
Should be a form right in the center that spreads the liquid evenly, by seeing at how you poured the liquid, some glasses will always have more than others.
Aside from that, pretty cool!
>>
>>1877966
Depends. Could be a wiring issue, but far more likely to be a firmware issue. When you say you "nabbed" one, do you mean it's second hand? It could be that the previous owner tried to update the firmware and got the stepper direction wrong.
I'd recommend using the TH3D unified firmware. Just edit the configuration.h file and uncomment all the parts that pertain to your printer (they'll be labelled), then flash it to your printer with the arduino IDE. If that doesn't fix the problem, there'll be a section where you can change the extruder direction without having to fiddle with wires.
>>
>Go through 16 hour overnight prints just fine
>Ease off printing for a while
>Start up again
>Printer freezes on like the third layer
>Retry, freezes halfway through the first layer
>Retry, goes well but eventually freezes about 60% of the way through

Ender 3 Pro upgraded with Big Tree SKR E3 DIP V1.1, their LCD panel, BLtouch v3.1, printing from SD Card, slicing with Cura 4.6.1, hooked up to an UPS while not having any apparent power issues (Florida, so lightning and shit but I'm on the East coast and getting nothing weather-wise), pressing a button on the LCD panel bleeps once but nothing happens and nothing bleeps after that, bed and extruder stay hot and it just sits there making a small puddle.

Fucking.
>>
>>1878025
you mean raising the center point even higher?
The video was literally first try and the plate was slightly crooked to the front.
I also thought about making the holes smaller so the liquid takes longer to pass and builds up evenly in the plate.
>>
>>1878257
I wonder if the opposite would work, a hollow in the center from where it overflows after a bit. I don't know if the overflow will give natural regulation or if it will be just as uneven.
>>
>>1877142
>>1877395
Nice, I hope that will make him shut up.
I didn't know printcoomers models are this huge, I always assumed he was doing a terrible job at 28mm, but at 100mm it's just pure retardation at work.
I really don't know how he manages to have so many layer seperations, this is such an bizarre problem to me, at least I see one of his models in decent quality for once.
>>
>>1878257
Yeah do the opposite. Have all the funnels be fed from the centre which would also be the lowest point.
>>
>>1877890
What drink?
>>
>>1878090
Is it pausing instead of freezing?
try cleaning off your touchscreen to make sure its not getting phantom pushes.
or switch into the old lcd mode.
>>
>>1877077
>stronger
wrong
>>
>>1874198
>Hey 3DPGuys how do you do a little doodle inside the Gcodepathing? Do you need to do it in CAD directly
Yes, that's done to the model itself. You can cut lettering out using Blender or other software, but the lettering needs to be large enough to actually be resolved by a printer. Try not to use lettering any smaller than 3/8 of an inch in height.
>>
>>1878386
FDM comes apart at the layers and takes a century to finish if you print it solid. SLA you can print solid just as fast as hollow and the layers aren't the weakest point
>>
>>1878345
>>1878335
yea I see what you're thinking but that would leave a puddle in the center.

>>1878351
Fresh 80 proof cranberry schnapps I got off the local farmers market on Saturday. Crazy sour taste, but I like it.

(i just made that up it was some red non alcoholic test liquid for demonstration purposes. come on man it was Sunday evening and I was alone.)
>>
>>1878456
I believe the best way to fill the glasses evenly is to pour the liquid inside a (thin at the bottom) cylinder. This should separate turbulences you create when pouring the liquid from the hydrostatic pressure on the exits. You need to make sure that the diameters of the outputs are consistent, and that when you're pouring something inside, keep the level reasonably above the exits.
>>
New Thread
>>1878467
>>
>>1878468
way way WAY too early
like several days too early
>>
>>1878370
It was freezing. I opened it up, jiggled the wires, closed it, and it's working again. I fucking love 3D printers.
>>
>>1878454
>>1878386
>>1877077
all of you are tards. Neither SLA or FDM is "better" than the other. FDM has impact resistance, is generally faster, and can have a mix of several materials (like filament reinforcement, elastomers, different support material). SLA is more detailed and can handle more intricate geometry. They've each got their uses.
>>
>>1878792
>FDM faster

>when SLA prints whole layers in seconds

get real
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>>1878841
fdm faster, bigger layers
>>
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>>1878336
>100mm models
Are you retarded?
>>
>>1878850
>suddenly out of fucking nowhere printcoomers army appears
>actually see some good ones

is this the power of drinking paint water
>>
>>1878841
>SLA prints whole layers in seconds
Only MSLA and projector, not laser SLA, AKA what most high-end machines use.
>>
>>1876033
>print gears with TPU
>gears intended to do 10k or so rpm
are you dense?
>>1876054
correct, ignore the fucktard.
>>
>>1876367
don't be a fucking tool, ya fanboi.
>>
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>that distinct failed print smell
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can anyone identify what printer this is based on the control panel? I printed some stuff with it when I was at community college, but the lab assistant always set it up for me. there was also one that was fucking huge, like refridgerator size.
>>
>>1879491
it's the Gruntmaster 6000
>>
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>>1879950



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