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Never Update Cura Edition
Old thread: >>1862410

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
http://www.autodesk.com/
http://www.solidworks.com/
http://www.openscad.org
http://www.freecadweb.org
http://www.blender.org/

Resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0
>>
>>1867941
still no report print errors script in OP
>>
Allright. I took the plunge and bought the ender 3. Took all day because i missed a couple steps in the video i was watching. Put the wrong screw on the z axis drive but got the right ones in now. I finally did it and am proud. Even got the unit to home.
So now i have to aquire more items. What do you ender 3 owners use to connect the printer to your computer? Do you still have to manually print stuff or can the computer just load print and be done with the whole job eventually?
>>
Didn't get any advice last thread. So I'll try again.
I'm printing in ABS now because I want to do some acetone smoothing and need heat resistance. Naturally, the ABS is shrinking more than the PLA I'm used to. I have already calibrated PLA with a 20mm cube. Should I account for the ABS shrink by calibrating the esteps again and adjusting them accordingly, or should I just scale my model up to account for shrink?
>>
What's the ender 3 stock hotend cooling fan rated as? I wanna get a quiet 4020 and https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/ebm-papst/414?qs=P41GyhEsKL7bxsX2N3Qv2A%3D%3D is the only one that's both reasonably quiet and available to buy. Is 5.9 CFM good enough or is it gonna be shit?
>>
>>1868069
comparable to orion, not quite as good as sunon but quieter so it's a wash. looks quite good.
>>
>>1868022
>What do you ender 3 owners use to connect the printer to your computer?
The TF card it came with

>Do you still have to manually print stuff
Yes, it is actually more reliable than having the computer stream the commands to the printer. The TF card is also faster, direct printing usually has missing steps and random gaps.

>So now i have to *acquire more items
The only mods I bought for mine are a geared extruder and a capricorn tube and yellow bed spring set, the rest I just printed. Make sure you properly leveled your bed, it shouldn't take more than a minute.
Also since you are new, your first prints should be as follows:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230 Z-axis spacers.
thing:4220059 Hot end fix, you should do this as soon as you can. You will spare yourself quite a lot of headaches later on.
thing:3236093 Cutting jig for the hotend fix above, gives you a precise length tube with a precise cut for a flush connection.

Anything else can go after these.
>>
>>1868054
>need heat resistance
print greentec pro, senpai
>>
>>1868086
to add to the tubing you should also get bowden fittings at the same time, the stock ones are shit
>>
>>1868084
Yeah the sunon won't be in stock for a month.

Can you recommend me a blower? Is the stock ender 4010 blower good enough or should I get a 5015/5215, and if so, any recs? I'm basically just printing PLA and PETG. Currently printed a Bullseye (which I can easily change if I get a 5015).
>>
>>1868093
The newer batch of the Enders come with the right fitting on the hotend side, but the plastic extruder has the small ones. At least they also supply the little plastic clips.
It should hold on until Anon gets his geared extruder and that comes with the right fittings.
>>
>>1868096
i forgot about the v2 and just assumed they were talking about the original. some friends were asking about getting into 3dp and i suggested the v2 because it sounds like they did solid improvements
>>
>>1868054
I'd think the esteps should be tied to actual machine movement to keep accuracy over any distance and shrinkage should be allowed for in the slicer
>>
>>1868022
>So now i have to aquire more items.
pla
acetone for bed cleaning
more pla
a second tf card maybe?

also
>mfw 2 pics in the op
>>
>>1868110
IPA and denatured alcohol/methylated spirits is enough for bed cleaning, you only need acetone if you regularly print ABS.
>>
>>1868114
acetone = good bed adhesion
>>
>>1868087
I'm also acetone vapor smoothing my parts and ABS is super cheap, so I'm not too interested in other plastics.
>>
>>1868125
But it is bad for the environment. Printing environment friendly is always a priority.
>>
what happened to printing on blue painter's tape? Im only on three rolls after three years and I prefer it to the glossy PEI/glass bed
>>
>Have touch sensor
>Have bilinear leveling
>7th point, back left, fails
>Starts print by itself anyway and immediately scraps my new glass bed on the Cura default purge line

1. Why does that fucking screw keep coming loose?
2. Why the fuck does it continue printing if a probe fails?
3. What the fuck do I change to make it realize it's fucking stupid and it shouldn't run blindly off a cliff?
4. Why the fuck isn't that the default setting?
>>
>>1868188
use some loctite or better springs (or just get rid of springs since you have bltouch)
>>
>>1868007
Link the post from the previous thread about it
>>
What's print time valued at?
What should I charge
>>
>>1868193
>>1862189
>>
Anycubic photon on sale at scamazon for 229. I want REALLY fucking good detail for printing microscopic fucking models, like N scale train shit level of realism, like https://miniprints.ca/

Any recommendations that won't break the bank? Mostly I just love small shit and think it's the coolest thing ever to have tiny little baby things for some reason.
>>
>>1868086
Tf card?

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-Certified-Meanwell-220x220x250mm/dp/B07VMG98ZN/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=ender+3+pro&qid=1595209774&sprefix=ender&sr=8-6

Is the one i got. Wanted to do minis and was going to use a smaller nozzle to see about detail. Use larger nozzle for terrain.
Came with bodan tube couplers and an extra nozzle but no cards
>>
>>1868228
>tf card
micro sd card
old name for the same exact thing, other than microsd cards can have larger sizes due to new standards
>>
>>1868232
>old name

More like the Chinese word for it. Every piece of chinkshit with an SD card slot calls it TF Card like they can't move on.
>>
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I installed an all metal hotend onto my CR10. Now the hotend cooling fan is working too well and causing the molten filament that works its way up the hotend to cool and stop extrusion. Is there a way to lower the speed of this fan? Note: it's not the part cooling fan. Arrow is where the filament hardens. I already turned the temp way up, but it still happens.
>>
>>1868114
>>1868119
keep in mind acetone fucks up PEI build plates
>>
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>>1868296
I don't have a CR-10 but if your filament gets molten above the heatbreak in any printer, you've got bigger problems than "heatsink too cold". Filament where you've marked it should never me molten there.
>>
>>1868140
I moved on to cum on glass because it gives me better adhesion and the print pops off on its own when the bed cools down.
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i hate summer
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>>1868398
you should print a benchy like that
>>
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Reminder to hit the image search when a post looks suspiciously retarded.
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Is my vibration damping setup overkill? Seems pointless without the board upgrade as the majority of the noise is stepper and fan noise.
>>
>>1868439
what is it all sitting on, a wire rack? jesus
>no matching images
ohnono
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>>1868447
It's garage shelving I have in my storage/workshop room, pretty stout shit
>>
>>1868448
Plus the whole unit is weighed down with several hundreds pounds of copper plus those bankers boxes are all books. Plus a 200lb Trinitron to the left of the printer.
>>
>>1868451
>*right
>>
>>1868323
>>1868296
In an all metal hotend, it's likely not actually melting in the heat sync, but pulling molten plastic back up during retraction. Some websites recommend 1mm of retraction, but if your model has small layers and lots of retracts, you'll probably need to halve that.
>>
>>1868463
And by small layers, I mean not a lot of surface area and quick changes to the next layer.
>>
>>1868196
>What's print time valued at?
>What should I charge
It depends on whether you are printing files you designed, or files the customer requests.
I only do the former and the files I design are specifically designed for reliable printing, so I charge $2 per hour.
Those that take requests or customer-provided models charge $3 to $4 per hour since there's more troubleshooting and upfront labor.
>>
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My prints have developed a weird wobble/gradual layer shift that only affects longer prints. Shorter prints that are near the same height are printing out perfectly fine. The bottom image is my last few prints in order they were printed. I thought it might be a filament being too tight issue, that's why I switched to the black, but got the same result. I'm stumped as to why length of print seems to be the main factor, if it was something wrong with the axis you think the shorter prints would have the same issue.
>>
>>1868523
should have bought a you know what
>>
>>1868278
>>old name
>More like the Chinese word for it. Every piece of chinkshit with an SD card slot calls it TF Card like they can't move on.

SD cards are protected by a full fuckteon of patents, IP rights, copyrighted content and all other possible prosperity blockers.
It was so bad that initially the SD Association even tried to ban all publicly-available SD-related stuff and keep the details secret from all who did not pay them a bazillion of dollars.
So basically "TF-compatibble card" means "SD card, but I don't want to pay a ridiculous cash just for using that name". Obviously, this does not bother anyone in China, but amazon or ebay sellers have to be cautious.

There is a bunch of other super-popular names that are in fact registered trademarks of companies or associations ready to launch their piranha lawyers to rip your guts to pieces if you dare to use their name without a permission. Such names include for instance bluetooth and wifi, and included I2C until its patent expired.
>>
if I 3d print a sex toy, would mod podge be a safe way to seal up the layer lines? It's literally all I have right now
>>
>>1868584
The safer solution to 3D printing things you will be making excessive body contact with is to print a mold and use an actual skin safe material to make the end product.

If you can't get some silicone then your 3D print should be considered one time use.
>>
>>1868584
ehh just sand it flat, it'll be fine
>>
>>1868591
that'tll just make microscopic crevices for bacteria to build up
>>
>>1868584
>>1868591
>ehh just sand it flat, it'll be fine
NO.
I've worked with a student who was doing a minor on growing bone cells (?) on 3D-printed components, with the intent of using a 3D-print as a bone replacement that dissolves once the bone has started growing (or something like that). We investigated the growth of regular bacteria as a starting point, and used various layers heights to change the Z-surface roughness, and sanding for the X-Y plane. None of it helped: no matter the layer height or surface roughness, bacteria managed to crawl in there all cozy like. The experiment was a succes, but NEVER EVER EVER use 3D-printed sex toys. Not even once (>>1868587) unless they're straight from the desinfection tank, and even then it's a retarded idea for toys that experience force (e.g. buttplugs) since one bad layer adhesion can mean there's 3D-printed stuff up your butt and you can't get it out. The only correct way it to 3D-print a mold and silicone it up.

Mods, please do not delete this post, leave it up as a warning.
>>
Hi /3dpg
I have a 2 week temporary access to a ultimaker3.
Is it worth printing pices for building a prusa i3 clone, or not?
If not, any 3d printer I can print easily?
Idealy, I would like to keep the vitamins under $200
>>
>>1868593
>>1868584
>mod podge
>crevices
Crafsman, are you doing a video on diy dragon dildos?
>>
>>1868614
nope. I just want to print myself a prostate toy
>>
So is it worth getting a 5015 blower or nah? I just print petg and pla and have no plans to diversify (maaaybe tpu one day but I don't foresee it)
>>
>>1868617
>nope. I just want to print myself a prostate toy
The powers of 3dpg
>>
>>1868416
I thought it was a report from like three threads ago, but holy fuck now reddit is doing it too
>>
>>1868598
Lmao dude there is no way the human body can exert enough force on a buttplug or something similar to break it as long as the infill and walls aren't crazy weak
>>
>>1868637
you're missing the point of his post. the main issue is the bacteria. the toy breaking is very unlikely as long as it's not printed vertically.
>>
>>1868610
>vitamins
?
I've printed a reprap printer, I'd recommend the hypercube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752766 its a (slightly) cheaper/better option than the ender 5 since you can buy your own (far) better controller and hotend, but it costs around the same...
the BOM is in there, if its too expensive its easier to just get an ender 3 kit really...
I'd also recommend just buying a bondtech clone extruder, 3d printed ones are shit.
you can print the entire thing in PLA without issue (mine's lasted for 3 years without replacements, PLA bushings are wonderful once you print a nice fitting one and use silicone grease), but a heated bed should use petg.
>>
>>1868702
*costs the same in the long run
>>
>>1868637
>there is no way the human body can exert enough force on a buttplug or something similar to break it as long as the infill and walls aren't crazy weak
The human sphincter is actually decently strong, and the human mind sometimes makes for terrible printing or designs.

>>1868639
>as long as it's not printed vertically.
Three guesses as to how most people print their sex toys. Hint: ribbed for their pleasure.
>>
>>1868439
Retard level 9001
>>
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resinchads ww@
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>>1868890
looks like one of those thingiverse bot remixes
>>
>>1868439
jfc you dont need all this crap with a 32 bit board
I just use a rubber mat since its an expensive wood table, makes 0 noise other than blower fan pwm.
>>
>>1868523
if its only on your longer prints, then its probably a cooling problem.
>>
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>>1868893
>kneejerk response to resin printing
>doesn't know these are done by professionals
seethe
>>
>>1868723
>>1868723
>ribbed for their pleasure.
yeah pleasure until it snaps inside your asshole
>>
>>1868904
I don't think you know what I'm referring to but okay.
>>
>>1868584
Smooth-On Dragon Skin line of silicones. $40 for a kit. Body safe. Go nuts.
>>
>>1868904
A professional craftsman can make the sharpest blade in the world but it'll be useless in the hands of a retard who uses it like a shovel
>>
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What's the best cheapest replacement fan that can get for my Ender 3 pro off ebay? The oem one is making vibration and rubbing sound while it prints and l don't think it'll last much longer.
>>
>>1868702
Thank you for your pointers anon.
Vitamins was used to refer to all non printed part back in the day.
I wanted to try a toyrep, but I think one can't really do serious thing with it, so I will gladly have a look at your solution.
>>
I seem to get inconsistencies between every type of PLA I use, even when it's the same brand but a different colour. Is this always the case? More specifically; I had eSun PLA+ in green which was pretty cool but needed a bit more heat at the nozzle, then I bought some eSun PLA+ in red but I struggled to get it to print as nicely.
>>
>>1867941
what metal 3d printer can i buy thats under $1000?
>>
>>1869165
None.
>>
>>1869165
The smallest, most basic ones start from around 100k
>>
>>1868296
that's not the problem, you actually want that to be as cold as possible and the heat transition zone as small as possible, your problem is that your retraction is too long, so when a retraction happens it solidifies too quickly. Just lower your retraction.
>>
>>1869163
Either you're getting unlucky with their quality control or there's other factors you're not considering. Were you printing non-stop and getting through a roll in a week or were you going slower and taking a month or more? Humidity over time ruins filament, so the longer it's out the worse it gets. Could have also been change in temperature, do you have an enclosed printer or live somewhere it's gotten significantly colder or warmer between rolls? Did you move your printer? Clean the nozzle? Maybe check and see if your model of printer has some "this eventually happens to every one" flaw like the Ender 3 and their PTFE-Hot End gap.
>>
>>1869163
That's just how filament is. Different colorants do different things, and different manufacturers have different base formulas. hatchbox grey will print like hatchbox grey, but not hatchbox white, and no hatchbox filament will print like any esun filament.

>>1869165
You can get a Sinterit Lisa for like $9K. You might also be able to build a Binder Jet printer for under $1K, but given the question that you asked, I doubt it.
>>
>get anet a8
>sd card comes with "cura 14.07" for slicing
>use it fine
>decide to try out cura 4. whatever
>seems to slice fine, go to print
>fucks up terribly, complete catastrophe

I went back to whatever slicer came with the a8, would there be any benefits to figuring out the newer version of cura? what features am I missing out on?

also, I've been printing exclusively in PLA since that's all I got before chinkflu happened. whenever I can get PLA+, will that directly work in my printer without any special bed, extruder etc? my anet a8 is completely stock.
>>
>>1869175
yes, get it
>>
>>1869177
why did it mess up the test print so bad? I copied the settings off a reddit post that everyone referenced. as soon as I tried with the older version it printed perfectly.
>>
>>1869180
are your machine settings correct? nozzle size, print area, etc correct? You should also copy over your pre-print gcode from the old version if you have it
>>
>>1869175
pla+ would print fine, they just add shit to make it matte or stiffer, pla+ is a very simplistic name for a basic PLA hybrid
cura has some new features and stuff but you own an anet so until you can mod the thing to something more usable for detailed models you dont need to deal with reconfiguring your printer settings for newer versions of cura.
>>
>>1868905
it won't snap, don't be delusional
>>
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>>1869170
You're absolutely right. I keep pulling these out of my hotend after jams. I removed my enclosure (garage is still 95°F 35°C), printed a new fan shroud that focuses the cooler fan on the heatshrink instead of the old creality one but it is still happening. My board is 12v so I can't get a much better fan. Would increasing the diameter of the fan help? I read the creality one is ~8CFM. Is that BS? Could I stack fans to lower resistance? Stock fan is a 12v 40x40x10. Would a 4020 be better or a 5020 or 5010?
>>
>>1868523
>I'm stumped as to why length of print seems to be the main factor
You need to watch the extruder temps. You might be having a PID or thermistor problem.
>>
>>1868523
>same height, not same issue
probably rules out z-binding

do you hear clicking? layer shifting is usually caused by missed steps in the X or Y, tightening belts should fix it. your longer prints look wider, so there's necessarily more movement in those axes. also, sorta dumb but, is your hotend affixed to the x-carriage properly?
>>
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i made a hybrid gearbox (cycloidal + gears). im planning on using it for some robotics applications. id like to measure the gearbox inertia.
im stuck at home due to fucking 'rona exposure, so i dont have any fancy tools (torque wrenches or force gauges).
anyway to easily at least approximate the gearbox inertia?
>>
>>1869295
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia
>>
>>1869299
theres plenty of unknowns that analytic approach wont work.
i need to measure the torque necessary to rotate the gearbox, but i dont know how to do it without special tools.
>>
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My stock hot end on my ender 3 seems me be constantly leaking fillament. Lasted me a long time but since that is happening I am debating on upgrading and getting something like an E3D Titan or Micro Swiss's dual gear extruder/hot end. What do you guys think? I will probably end up switching it to a hypercube next year.
>>
>>1869304
may as well try some maintenance before dropping money.
trim PTFE tube, put it back it right up against the nozzle, which you can swap if you want. heat up hotend and tighten nozzle. clean it with the accupuncture needle it came with and cleaning filament if you have it.
>>
>>1868463
creality calling that extruder "all metal" when the bowden tube physically touches the nozzle is blatant false advertising. Same with their e3d lite clone.
>>
>>1869304
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831
its only a band-aid solution but it works while you print a new bracket for an e3d clone hotend
>>
whats the most flexible ear saver on PLA out there? i gave away some on this model for free on a local hospital
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4278617
now they want something more flexible.
>>
>>1869346
try printing that one thinner
idk why they think that one is too stiff, the design was made to be flexible for PLA prints instead of just TPU
>>
>>1869174
>Sinterit Lisa
Cant seem to see it printing metal.
>>
>>1869318
OP of this issue topic here. Yeah, the creality one is not all metal. I got a replacement hotend. I'm wondering if the heat creep is from the metal tube connecting the heating element to the heat sync. I might try to nigger rig a dremel to act like a lathe and cut some grooves in it for heat dispersion before the heat sync.
>>
How do I stop shit from sticking to the FEP? Every time a layer cures and it pulls the print up before lowering it again I can hear it being ripped off the FEP. If I lower my exposure times by a second it will get further into the print but my supports fail. I've even tried the WD-40 with PTFE. It made the FEP feel slick as hell but it still didn't work. My last 3 prints have failed because they keep getting ripped off the supports. I can't really rotate it either. It's a sphere but it's also hollow. There isn't some giant ass surface area that it's trying to pull.
>>
Water washable resin any good? How long can uncured prints be submerged for? Could I cure it while under water?
>>
>>1869471
its normal that the release fron the fep makes an audible noise. If you want something better get a sheet of teflonAF. No clue how you would source it though.
>>
>>1869256
Normally it shouldn't be a problem. 8CFM sounds way too high, especially for a 12V.
The meme answer is a noctua 4020. It's quiet, and though it doesn't have optimal CFM due to being quiet, plenty of people use it to great success. For 24v printers there are better solutions, but since yours is 12V it's probably fine. But again the main advantage is that it's quiet, I doubt it'll solve a cooling issue. If stock is failing to cool it adequately for you, then I dunno, maybe you might need to go big like a 5020, non-quiet fan, but it sounds weird and I haven't heard of other people having to do this.
>>
>>1869302
I have zero clue about mechanical engineering anything, but could the following work
>connect lever/beam to shaft, I say "level" but it should be equal weight on both sides
>hang known weights from one end
>when it starts rotating, measure length of lever and use the weight of the, uh, weights to calculate torque
>>
I see some people using fan ducts, as in input ducts that control the air flowing towards the fan. Is there any rationale for this (better flow somehow?) or is it just snake oil/aesthetics/"safety"?
>>
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I'm becoming a 3d printer idort
Any first prints I should do? Also, is UV 100% necessary? My uv led strip won't arrive until next week...
>>
>>1869550
I'd recommend the test print, to make sure everything is hunky-dory. Then fine something with nice, fine details that you wouldn't be able to do on a non-resin printer. Lots of options for miniatures or dice (though from what I understand the printed material isn't great for dice that are going to be rolled repeatedly).
>>
>>1869256
just lower your retraction to like 1mm and see what happens.
>>
>>1869489
>>1869586
I figured it out. I got chinked. It was not an all metal hotend, it was a normal hotend where the Bowden tube had to go all the way down. So I was essentially using a normal hotend with no Bowden tube. It's a miracle I was even able to finish little 4 hour prints.
>>
>>1869587
Kek
Another anon said that earlier itt, that the creality hotends aren't all-metal despite the name

Glad you figure it out, can always still buy a quiet 4020 to reduce noise though
>>
>>1869550
>is uv 100% necessary?
It is if you want to cure prints after the sun is down.
>>
>>1869312
>>1869321
Already tried multiple times. That is why I am actually willing to buy instead the preferred diy.
>>
>>1869593
Yeah, it's not a creality hotend. Or at least sold by creality nor branded creality.
Gonna splurge and get a $25 hotend.
>>
>>1869623
Based chinks
>>
I see that Cura lays a grid on the build platform. Is there a way to measure exact points on a 3d model? I know you can get the x,y,z dimensions but say I want to edit something specifically.
>>
>>1869627
use a different program. meshmixer or fusion360 are both pretty easy
>>
>>1868439
You just need the concrete. Mass absorbs vibrations provided your frame isn't jumping around like a retard on coke.
>>
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A friend with too much money and too little time left sent me an Anycubic Photon SLA Printer. I have had no interest in 3D printing, but I do in sculpting with polimer clay and other physical medium.

What can I do with this printer?
How can it aid me in my artistic pursuits by being complementary to manual sculpting?
Or the best way of using it is to completely switch to digital sculpting?
How can I make money using it?

I also saw in their website that they were selling Special UV Resin for Dental Casting, My family has a Dental Clinic and I want to know what is this about
>>
>>1869643
I did the foam just because I had it laying around. It's pretty hard stuff.
>>
>>1869689
Have you tried looking up all these questions on google
>>
So has anyone figured out a way to reliably get rid of print lines on PLA without sanding?
>>
>>1869708
To be honest, not much outside of exactly what the machine was and its characteristics relative to other things. I know that there is a market for custom figurines and the like (But I also know that 3D printing is not well-suited for mass-production), but I still get the suspicion that due to my ignorance I am not asking google the right questions. Still, I feel that I will get better answers from here than some website about some boomer telling you how you too can earn passive income with a 3D printer now! Click the link bellow if you wish to know more. So far a lot has being tabloid nonsense.

I do not want to sound entitled, and I am aware that this board in particular is tired of people with no knowledge asking basic questions, but there are so manny things I have to learn and I at least want some hints to aid in my research, since I have no prior interest in 3D printing I have no idea just how deep the rabbit hole goes and if it is even going to be worth it.
>>
>>1869689
>option 1: get a photogrammetry setup (or mooch one off your friend), sculpt things, scan them and print them (though it's questionable whether this is better than just making molds)
>option 2: learn digital sculpting (in blender or I hear zbrush is good for that) and print things
It can be a side hobby anyway, I don't see a reason to "switch to digital sculpting".
I mean, you can make thingies out of plastic. Being an SLA printer, the thingies can't be too big, but they have a high resolution available for potential detail. To make a thingy you have to create a 3D model of it (or find an existing one). That's the tools you have to work with, it's up to you to find what you can do with them.

I dunno, you could print tools or something? Jigs to hold up structures? Make "wireframes" or even mannequin-like featureless cores that you then detail manually with clay? I'm not a sculpter so I don't really know. For example, would a rigid plastic skeleton have any advantage over a metal wire skeleton that can bend?
>>
>>1869736
>it's questionable whether this is better than just making molds
This is my main concern, so far I always planned to do something like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0raRhCfrYY
Since a new opportunity literally just came by my door I wanted to know if I could use it in some way related to my hobby.
But even if right now I do not have a serious use for it maybe I should learn to sculpt digitally

Something I can think of right now are custom tools, and custom elements, I am much better at sculpting organic shapes, and struggle with unnatural objects like tools and the like. So if I make a character I would sculpt by hand his body and clothes, but 3D Print his accesories like swords and the like, at least so I can make casts later
Also, Maybe I could complement sculpting with 3D printed elements like making ball joints (where precision matters) so I can create posable figures. That's all I can think about right now

Oh Well, I first have to learn how to use the dam thing
>>
>>1869755
Those are pretty good ideas. Though I hear ball joints are hard to get right in SLA.
>>
>>1869710
Primer filler spray paint
>>
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>tinker with e3pro for months to achieve perfect settings
>still not satisfied with quality
>get resin printer
>literally hit print
>print minis
>get this amazing quality for no effort
resinchad wasn't lying
>>
Why do people complain so much about the resin, I thought it would be comparable to epoxi and it barely smells. Anycubic resin tho,maybe that's it?
PD what you think about my setup. The Snapmaker 2 has a small area but modular 3d printing, laser and CNC for 700 bucks is quite a great deal when simmilar standalone 3d printers cost twice the price in my country.
>>
>>1869857
Can you link where you got those stls from they look excellent
>>
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>>1869870
Maybe later, if I get into the next OP
>>
>>1869863
>Why do people complain so much about the resin, I thought it would be comparable to epoxi and it barely smells

Its extremely hazardous to your eyes, your mucus membranes, and your lungs
It also causes skin problems, and can kill you if you drink it
There are no ifs ands or buts, its toxic as shit and you should not be breathing in the fumes or touching it

So yeah, "it barely smells" is still you ingesting toxic fumes and why people are diligent about not being exposed to them
>>
>>1869765
I've seen a few designs and some should work best than others (like loose sockets pulled together by a rubberband running trough both pieces). From what I have seen about this device I will suppose that the plastic is brittle and not made for snapping together like Bionicles.

Well, now that I see value in this I will do more serious digging
>>
>>1869890
That's why you use a facemask and gloves though. And I have it in a well ventilated area right next to 2 windows.
Also saying it can kill you if you drink it is just stretching it don't you think? I'm just saying that most people give the impression that the place will smell like epoxy when it's not the case.
>>
So for the first time ever I bought a stepper motor not from China and it has a problem.
I have tried 1.4A to 0.5A and it never has enough power to work properly, I can even stop it with my fingers. It's a 27mm pancake motor but my 24mm pancake motor work just fine with the same settings, even a normal full sized motor work with these setting.

Is the stepper motor just fucked?
>>
>>1870021
did you unplug it while it was powered on
>>
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>>1867941
>Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
why no love for the Anycubic i3? its has actual linear rails, good cable management and the monolithic sheetmetal frame is imho better than something you bolt together from extrusions.
>>
>>1869493
dont be so hard on yourself anon. im a meche, and thats basically what i ended up doing, just using a scale instead of known weights.
problem with this approach is that its inaccurate as fuck. although most torque wrenches are quite inaccurate too, so whatever i guess.
btw, if anyone is interested, i found that my gearbox needs ~0.04Nm to be rotated.
>>
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>>1870029
>its has actual linear rails
Look closely, it has linear rods, not rails. Nothing wrong with V-slots on a 250 USD printer either. I'd sure prioritise a printer with linear rails on all three axis in that budget - but if it ain't broken, why bother fixing it?
>good cable management
Nothing wrong with the Ender 3 - and why would the i3 be better?
>and the monolithic sheetmetal frame is imho better than something you bolt together from extrusions.
Not better per se, it is far from monolithic since it can still bend and is still bolted together from different components. It sure is stiffer when done properly with thick sheet metal, but if I recall correctly the i3 only uses 0.75 or 1mm (or some imperial equivalent). Pic related used 2mm, and you could really stand on it during printing, but it also is way overkill in terms of amount of panels. A shop I've worked with has 20 Anycubic i3's for their print farm and they work well, but they took quite some time to get dialed in and I therefore did not recommend them in the original OP. Not saying they're a bad choice, I've just had more positive reviews from newbies with their Ender 3.
>>
>>1870029
>actual linear rails
I dont see any in your pic.
>>
>>1870028
No, and every other motor still works fine on the same driver.
>>
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>>1870029
>Actual linear rails
>>
>>1870021
Datasheet where? If the rated voltage is to high your driver will struggle to raise the current fast enough. Usually you want it rated for 2-3V
>>
>>1869623
>25$ hotend
>splurge

just get a microswiss for $75 and be done with it forever
>>
>>1869863
>>1869967

The smell varies a lot with the brand/type. The tough ones usually smell the most, while stuff like anycubic's plant-based resin is supposed to smell the least. It's not a bad smell, but it is toxic in any case, so you have to vent it outside. The more you breathe it in or touch it, the more sensitive you become, and it can get to a point where you can get a severe reaction from it. There was a pretty graphic pic of a dude on reddit who spilled some on their skin, they were likely allergic to epoxy.

>>1870060

Hey neat, is that an opensource design?
>>
>>1870067
I might post the cad files when it's done. It's going to be an idex printer
>>
>>1869883
Hopefully you wont. Ever.
>>
Redpill me on rods vs rails
>>
>>1870097
Linear rods and V-slots are both a good compromise between price and accuracy. If you want great accuracy and don't care about price, get you some linear rails and install them properly.
>>
>>1870021
>>1870061
This. I had tried a 12V stepper on the extruder when I was sourcing parts for a reprap, and never could get it to work right. Put a proper low voltage motor on and all the problems went away.
>>
>>1870098
This.

I love rails but I would have spend around 500 euros in rails and carriages for my new printer if I couldn't get Draco pieces from my work with a discount.
>>
>>1870098

With linear rails does the direction of the load matter? Like is it a problem if the rail is mounted on its side and weight is being placed on the side of the carriage instead of its flat part?
>>
>>1870168
Not if you have a preloaded carriage. If you order chink shit then yes.
>>
>>1869173
Thanks. Nozzle clean, same location, same temps etc, no real humidity, using filament pretty quickly, couple of weeks for 1kg I would guess in general. The thing that piqued my interest is that the eSun labels have different recommended temp ranges on the two colours, so presumably something is different about them. I think one is like 195-215 and the other is something like 205-230
>>1869174
Thanks, I guess in general it's best to find a particular brand and colour that works for you and stick to that? I'm not bothered about what colour I use as anything bigger I would tend to paint.
>>
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>>1870168
>>1870171
yes, the direction matters. any decent manufacturer will provide this information in their catalog, pic related, from nsk.
>>
>>1870190
It matters, but 3d printers really don't weigh enough for it to matter. That's more what u mean.
>>
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Chiron annon here, anyone got tips for easily removable support materials?

Also kinda related latest print, it was a bitch to remove supports on this one but it was manageable.
>>
>>1867941
why is leveling so fucking hard
i had this bitch leveled great and after like a month of not touching it its all fucked up AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
>>
>>1870237
tree style supports work pretty well for me
>>
>>1870237
Use Prusa Slicer.
>>
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>>1870047
>rails

Sorry my mistake, I meant rods. Still, akshual rods with bearings instead V slots.

It's a more shit resistant solution as any debris gets pushed along the rail rather than crushed under the rolling wheel.

The electrics are hidden inside the metal case on the i3 and protected while Ender has open PSU and other stuff on the open.

An i3 sat in a college 'workspace' (tiny bathroom sized hovel) next to a drill press and people creating flying shit through sawing etc.. I'd sometimes find it covered in metal shavings. Just wiped the buildplate clean with my hand and it worked.

>frame
Thickness being the source of rigidity is a misnomer. You need maximum amount of surface area as far from the geometric centre of profile as possible. The example in your pic isn't actually a very good solution. A flat plate is rigid only in one direction.

And aluminum extrusions are narrow rods, despite having more material. So the wide thin steel L profile on the i3 is akshually the better option.

>cables

Filament feed tube bends along a larger radius on the i3 hence less resitance and snapping brittle filaments like wood. Also cables in general are hidden neatly inside the frame so less chance for fuckups. Ender has open ribbon cables.

Ultrabase is nice. And setup is really quick - 8 screws, insert filament, level and print the owl.

tl;dr had one in uni workshop, has survived 2+ years of abuse and metal shaving showers by uncaring students. so i think it deserves a honorable mention at least.
>>
Fresh elegoo dude here, so far just printed the test print from the usb but damn the quality is superb, never thought this quality could be achieved this cheap. Keep in mind that it's dirty because I couldn't properly clean it cuz IPA arrives next weak lmao shortages. Also, no uv till tomorrow so I just left the in the sun for like 5 hours
>>
>>1870301
With a non-prusa printer it ought to be more enjoyable to 3d scan your erect penis and print that desu
>>
>>1870332

Oh yeah, the quality of these is impressive, the pixel density is so high that the smallest possible feature is less than the laser spot size of the first formlabs printers. I've been able to print things the shape and size of a sewing needle on my Photon.
>>
Can anyone suggest a better extruder stepper for ender 3?
>>
>>1870285
Talking minis and I had bad luck with tree supps.
>>
>>1868416
What about one of these
>>
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>>1868416
the fact that the bubble is level concerns me more
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>>1869690
That's foam? Unless it's very heavy it probably won't help
>>
>>1870302
Any chance you could share a link to that file? the guys I work with would get a chuckle out of an astronaut jousting on a duck
>>
>>1870464
I hope you're joking.

If you're not, there are several reasons you wouldn't use a level or this method. The bed needs to be square with the printer frame/nozzle, not the planet. Also, a standard level has nowhere near enough precision in terms of the tolerances that your printer works to.

Use paper or feeler gauges, paper is easiest and most accessible.
>>
>>1870639
It's little foam squares between two concrete pavers with the printer on top.
>>
>>1870579
THIN YOUR PAI-
Oh wait, that doesn't look half bad.
>>
>>1867941
Is there a 3d printer for silicone or metal?
I want to make a project pic related
>>
>>1870776
Your best bet is to use a resin printer to create a negative mold and then pour the silicon into the mold.
For metal make a positive mold, make a negative sand mold using the positive and then make metal mold from the sand. Won't be super good quality though.
>>
>>1870776
You don't need silicone or metal to make a figurine or cosplay prop or whatever your pic related is supposed to be
>>
>>1870777
based trips or truth
>>1870784
it is an android
>>
>>1870776
>>1870788
>it is an android
>Doesn't even have a clue on basic manufacturing
Never gonna make it.
>>
For Alfawise U20/U30, an amazing tcl file that help to reduce noises at power supply level :
https://youtu.be/O0Jrytb_8sA
>>
>>1870776
>>1870777
i wish we could get silicone filament so we can bypass all this mold making bullshit
>>
What can cause PLA layers to literally curl up when printed, in places barely sticking to the layer below in the process? Too much/too little cooling? Wrong temperature? Under/over extrusion?
>>
>>1870853
With PLA, it's most likely a clogged nozzle in my experience. Printing other plastics, those signs indicate too much cooling plus poor layer adhesion. If it's early in the print, your bed may be too far and so the platic can't adhere well to other layers until it has self corrected a few layers in.
>>
>>1870862
I'm a tard and have never done nozzle maintenance, so I guess I'll have to get on that and figure out how to properly check.
It did start early on but it continued fucking up the benchy print for about 1.5cm. Then it magically fixed itself and the rest of the print is great, although some of the bridging is garbage.
I added a BMG clone and also printed a bullseye, so the cooling and extrusion are different and the most probable culprits. I did think too much cooling could be possible (even if it sounds unlikely for PLA, plus I'm still only using the stock ender3 4010 blower), but turning off the fan yielded no difference, and the top half of the print went fine (with full fan).
>>
>>1870873
Turn the nozzle on and try to manually push filament through, it may curl a bit at first, but with even a little bit of weight of extruded plastic hanging down off the nozzle as you push through, it should go straight out and down. If not and it keeps curling, proceed to try nozzle clearing stuff.
>>
>>1870842
Silicone cures, it doesn't melt. It isn't a thermoplastic, how do you expect it to work?
>>
>>1870886
A nozzle that mixes two part silicone rubber while it extrudes.
I think someone tried something similar with epoxy resin.
>>
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>>1870772
>>
>>1870928
won't cure fast enough or will clog the nozzle
>>
>>1870886
which flexible filament is the closest to silicone in the way it feels?
>>
>>1870886
>it cures
SLA then? Maybe something laser-based?
>>
>>1870984
None, they are all harder.
>>1870986
Nope, not happening.
>>
>>1870986
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_rubber

Not gonna happen.
>>
>>1870984
veroshore is the only kind that approaches the flexibility of silicone, and that stuff still feels like crap because of all the bubbles.
>>
>>1870732
The term should be tramming, I think.
>>
Anyone know a good alternative to RAMbo 1.4, lot of them are out or the price is jacked.

Its going in an MPCNC not a 3D printer but I think it should be about the same its just axis with NEMA motors.
>>
>>1871081
if you're going cnc look towards something like the duet3, a SKR 1.4 with the correct stepper drivers can run RRF with a PI and would work well for CNC.
>>
There's no application for 3d printers is there?
> gay miniatures
> upgrades for the printer itself
> some shit you don't actually need like paper towel holders
>>
>>1871089
Thank you. Trying to build on the c heap to see if a business idea works. If it works will probably make something beefier but don't want to go all in and fail. SKR looks promising.
>>
>>1871097
All those are basic bitch normie applications, the sort for people whose printer of choice is an ender 3
>>
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>>1871097
>he doesn't print magazine capacity extenders that mag the mags illegal in cucked states just to dab on friends living in said states.
Why even live?
>>
>>1871154
*make the mags illegal
>>
>>1870776
You want a miniature or a bodysuit?
Theres a 10-20 minute video on youtube with Adam Savage and Weta talking about and taking apart that bodysuit. Pretty informative.
>>
>>1870932
What model is that, I wanna paint one
>>
>>1870932
>>1871191
samefag
>>
>>1871097
>> upgrades for the printer itself
That makes it self-sustaining, and it means the technology will never die out since it generates its own demand.
>>
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>>1871197
Dude I just want to paint models
>>
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>>1871200
X
>>
>>1871154
Just buy normal ones and pretend you bought it on the 'free week'. Its their burgen to prove you didn't.
>>
>>1871205
Now this is diy autisim
>>
https://youtu.be/C7wYfaHT1g0
>ASMBL(tm)
they trademarked cnc+3d printing
and no, the nonplanar slicer does not work additively
>>
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>>1871217
>>
>>1871205
why the fuck would I waste my time
>>
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I cant find this fucking model anywhere, I went back through the threads and nothing I just wanna print my giant wife
>>
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Would I be able to print something like this straight vertical on a photon without having to support it? That way I would be able to print it at the largest size I can or would I run into problems of it warping or just falling apart or something?
>>
>>1871423
If want to waste hours of printing because of a mishap, sure.
>>
>>1871425
Thats why I'm asking
>>
What can i use to generate gears, outside of paid autodesk stuff? I'm using blender, but every gear plugin for blender seems to be unfinished. Don't wanna model it myself either, sounds like a major case of reinventing the wheel.
>>
>>1871423
Try printing it at a 5-15 degree angle on its back. You'd still get maximum build height (and even a little more due to the way diagonals work) and nothing would be directly overhanging and would all be at a slope
>>
>>1871457
McMaster-Carr has downloads for I think most of their gears, try that.
>>
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>>1871462
Their models are not really good for blender (not manifolded after import), so i'm still looking for a nice generator that works for ordinary 3d stuff, but i love the idea. God, what a life hack, this shit is the future. Thanks.
>>
3D printing pisses me off so bad at times.
I had my shit printing perfect, like fucking awesome, but then something changed and I don't know what, it feels like a constant struggle to keep my print quality good. I leave prints running overnight and always wake up to spaghetti now. I was printing the hulk and the detail on the feet and lower legs was great (for FDM), but something fucked up around the waist and it spaghetti'd. The model was still stuck to the bed etc, so presume the nozzle caught on the print or the ambient room temp was too cold and it fucked up, god knows.

What do people tend to use for PLA in terms of retraction and stuff? I.e. speed, distance, and also z-hop distance etc. Pulling my hair out here and considering just trashing my profile and starting again, but it's infuriating as it could be a number of things causing the issues.

Help me bros
>>
>>1871458
If I angle it would I just have to support it from the base of sholud I run supports up the back too just to be safe?
>>
https://youtu.be/O0Jrytb_8sA
>>
>>1870821
>>1871484
You already shilled your shitty video you made yesterday here. Fuck off.
>>
>Decided to buy a large volume printer.
>Thanks to Corona-chan not many left to buy here in Aus.
>Decide on a A30m and to play that chink lottery.
>Have it arrive, do a few test prints then decide to go do a 25 hour print.
>12 hours in, kick the power cable by mistake, think I've lost the print.
>Plug it back in and go to remove the print.
>See the display asking me if I want to resume.
>Breath a sigh of relief.

I think I might be in love with this printer........
>>
>>1871483
Run supports up the back, better safe than sorry. You can sand it afterwards or just leave it, it's the back after all
>>
>>1871493
You know that most printers do that, right?
>>
>>1871097
I mean, you just posted several applications yourself. I use it also for my electronic projects
>>
>>1871191
Dragon Trappers Miniatures
>>
>>1870029
I wonder that as well, I have it and it works great.
>>
>>1871457
>What can i use to generate gears, outside of paid autodesk stuff?
http://www.sdp-si.com
Their entire gear catalog includes CAD files.
>>1871477
>Their models are not really good for blender
You shouldn't be using blender for CAD. It's for making mesh models, not for modeling to exact dimensions. Try Fusion
>>
>>1871457
I've used a couple of times this website:
http://hessmer.org/gears/InvoluteSpurGearBuilder.html
You can re-work dxf's in qcad / librecad, then use them in openscad / freecad.

Also, inkscape can generate moderate quality gears with a built-in plugin, but it seems inferior to the link above.
>>
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>tfw you'd love to give in to the resin meme for the incredible clean prints but only have a tiny apartment where you'd fucking wither in the resin STINK
Guess I'll have to wait a couple years more
>>
Just bought the anycubic mega s
Should be a decent upgrade to my anet 8
>>
>>1871619
good choice
>>
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First time trying to do this, Ive been placing supports on areas that start disconnected from the model or on areas that will be supporting a lot of weight, Im wondering if I NEED a support on all the red areas or if its just showing where the overhangs are.

Pic related is my first time
>>
>>1871585
I can tell you from experience that sirya fast barely smells like anything. I would be more worried about having an area to do cleanup work than the stink.
>>
>>1867941
I had a thought the other day that I could print a simple circuit board and use gold leaf laid over the pathways as a conduit but then I thought that the PLA I’ve been using might melt. Is there a better material to print with that is maybe more heat resistant/non conductive? Is the standard blue PLA I’ve been using fine for a project like this?
>>
>>1871678
Do yourself a favor and get your circuits done professionally.
I mean you could try but I see nothing but frustration and potential fire hazard in this.
>>
Can I 3d print life sized parent?
>>
>>1871700
Yes but they will be hollow deep inside.
>>
does the photon workshop have a way of evaluating if you are going to run into overhang problems? or is it all just automated by angle and you have to check it by eye?

fairly new to this, and my last few prints have clearly had support issues, and i'm printing detailed 28mm scale miniatures, so small fuckups basically destroy the model
>>
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>>1871700
>>
>>1871513

>You know that most printers do that, right?

Yeah, but my printers are pretty old, so new working features feel like I'm being spoilt.
>>
Have stepper motors improved in the last few years or does stepper motor performance decrease over time?

Pretty much the only thing I 3D print are my own disinged 3D-printers just for fun. Whenever I'm done with one I immediately go to a new design, I've made 7 printers in the last few years. But I keep using the same motors from my old ultimaker original I bought on its release date. I haven't noticed any problems but that might just be because it's been a slow process.
>>
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I'm glad I got a 3d printer. Even for little parts like this filter it's super easy to jump into f360, and print something out with such accuracy, that everything just fits right into place. Final print was only ~0.07 mm off. Just blogging here, but damn we really are living in the fuggen future. Looking foward to making more practical prints.
>>
>>1871700
I want a life sized gf
>>
Stupid question but can I just stick acrylic paint into a 3d printer and use it to make paintings/print my own graphic shirts? I've heard about people using airbrush nozzles with 3D printers, but I figured the paint/ink could be a problem.
>>
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Alright, PLA curling anon back here again. I tried the "passing some filament through the nozzle test" >>1870883 and it's giving me the exact same behaviour I've always had - filament curls up at first, sticks itself to the nozzle in a loop, then if I unstick it and let the loop hang down the weight pulls follow-up filament down as well. I might as well clean it to be sure, since I've never done it before.

I've gone ahead and compiled some photos of what the fuck is going on. At the top are a couple of shots I took while printing. In the middle are two shots of the complete benchy, where you can see the curling layer lines in places, and the absolute spaghetti at the front. It's worth pointing out that this shit was happening everywhere, including on the near-vertical sides, and then it stopped absolutely suddenly.

At the bottom are a couple of other attemps I made. I thought that since it'd started printing perfectly at one point, maybe it had dislodged a clog or something, but no, I am getting the exact same results, reproducibly. I also varied the speed, because I had tried to bump up my speed for that benchy - nope, going back to the normal slow stock speeds did nothing. Anyway, with the prints stopped really early on, you can very clearly see the layers curling upwards at the corners.
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>>1869883
>if I get into the next OP
please dont
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>>1869870
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-lila-elf-ranger-115881
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>>1869174
When do those patents expire? I want cheap metal printers
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hey guys can anyone bolean some models together for me? They're just putting arms on bodies of 40k minis like 3 of them.. Im trying to pick up meshmixer and im just not getting it..
i'll pay for your time.
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>>1871902
It might just be the light, but your layers looks smooth and glossy, which could be a sign of insane overheating. Print a temperature tower. Or try printing something in like 5°C increments from 185-215°
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>>1871816
IFKR? I convinced the higher-ups at my company to get a Form 3 because I needed it for a few detailed parts that had too long of a lead time and were too expensive to prototype and they're constantly amazed by how fast they go from "I need this done" to "what do you mean you already have a final part?". Shit's great.
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>>1871496
Yeah that what I did along with supporting the bottom though it feels a little acoustic and excessive but id rather it not implode
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>>1871892
What? No. Unless you completely swap out the extruder you can't just print with ink. People use airbrush nozzles, sure, but it's still plastic going through it unless they've got a special setup.
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>>1871892
related

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbaP12_CazU
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>>1872081
You can probably get away with half that number of supports on the base, the bottom cones shouldn't need to intersect unless you've got a lot of fine features (which you don't)
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Those fuckers at triple aught design wanted me to pay a shit ton of money to stupid little pieces of metal
I made my own shit in 36mins on 360 fusion
Pic related
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4546536
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>>1869883
What a fucking cunt you are
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>>1872109
The hell are these things?
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>>1870029
>Anycubic i3 mega s
I've asked the same thing a few threads ago. It really is a nice little machine and should be included in the op imho.
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>>1872139
Ah, ad hominems. print a better reply
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>>1872152
You put these on any molle strap (backpack, plate carrier or anything else) and put inside a tritium bar so it glows in the dark and you can be seen
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>>1872005
They kinda look mostly like my other prints. I did take those photos directly under a strong light, in order for the black plastic to actually have the layer details show up on camera.
It's sunlu PLA+ rated 190-220*C, and I printed these at 215*C (I've always printed around 215-220 even before this, with no real issues). However, I did flash a new version of Marlin (one of my changes was to switch from stock ender 3 to skr 1.4), is it possible the thermistor got "decalibrated" somehow? I grabbed PID settings from provided Ender 3 configs, but either way the temperature readings should at least be correct, right?

I'll try printing a temperature tower later today (provided I can get it printed without devolving into a spaghetti mess).
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How realistic is it to 3D print a skull and then create the outer layer of the head using silicone in 3D printed molds? For the purpose of fucking the head.
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>>1872211
It's safer dealing with commodities.
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>stepper motor has a faster processor and more pixels on its display than a prusa
has science gone too far?
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>>1871902
you need more cooling fan
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>>1872231
>simp
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>>1872222
You mead buying a pre-made head? But I don't want a pre-made head
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Absolutely terrible, but FDM and my shaky hands and terrible work ethics hit me hard here. Anyone know more about painting/have experience in smoothing PLA? Thought about using spray-on polyurethane, already tried paint on acrylic but no good luck with it. Tips anyone?
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>>1872231
if that nigger uses all that old reprap style shit on the xl there will be consequences
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https://youtu.be/O0Jrytb_8sA
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>>1871730
photon workshop is kind of shit. use some other slicer, save as .stl and open it photon
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How capable will my 3d printer be?
Currently have an Ender 3 pro with BLtouch, Capricorn tubing, glass bed and Dual Z stepper upgrade. Just got my SKR 1.4, can i make it print as good as a prusa with these upgrades (Perhaps if i upgrade the hotend)?
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>>1872535
Oh yeah, already got an aluminium extruder too.
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what 3d editng software is the easiest to make a rounded rectangular coin slot in a .stl?

i have meshmixer working and the ui is confusing shit.
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I have a bunch of parts that are long in one direction. 4"x 3" x 17" approx for the largest one, but the rest of them have similar aspect ratios. Because of the forces they'll encounter, printing them with the long axis in Z puts the layer lines in the weakest orientation. I need to print with the long dimension on X or Y. Most of the large dimension printers I can find have Z as the big axis, or are a fuckhueg 600x600x600 box that's complete overkill for what I want and have a $4000 price tag starting. Does anybody make a large xy, reasonable z printer?
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>>1872698
click 3d model
click edit
click hollow (pic)
make hollow with tool
click meshmix
drag box mesh (inside primitives) onto main area (put it in a blank area, dont drag onto the model)
use transform tools to make a rectangle shape
move rectangle to where you want hole (shape it to make the slot shape)
click model
shift click rectangle
click edit button
click Boolean Diffrence
???
profit
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>>1870821
>>1871484
>>1872437
Can we get rid of this faggot?
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>>1872843
Surprisingly, reports do nothing
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Is Thingiverse fucky for anyone else?
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>>1872885
Always has been.
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>>1872885
You mean now or in general?
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>>1872894
>>1872893
Right now, it's super slow to load on my end. Then again, I'm an Eurofag
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>>1872897
It's slow as hell 70% of the time, I'm also euro
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>>1872898
I remember it being pretty fast and zippy, so I got real confused.

In related things, what is /3DPG/ working on?
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>>1872902
>what is /3DPG/ working on?
A sub 100g filament drive based on an RC servo. Has been done before but this one uses a brushless metal gear servo to hopefully avoid motor failure.
Figured out decent-ish PID parametrs today. Next I'll move the electronics onto perfboard and mount it on my printer for testing.
Future plans include getting a new servo that does not have a bent output shaft, moving the software from arduino to C (possibly with a different MCU) and maybe getting a propper BLDC driver instead of tricking the servos controller into doing what I want.
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Looking for a little bit of advice here lads.

A few weeks back I changed the nozzle on my Ender-5. After going through the rigmarole of changing it and re-levelling the bed to make sure it's all fine, I've not been able to get proper bed adhesion. At first I thought it was due to the nozzle change and re-levelled yet again. This changed nothing.

I've only been able to get adhesion on things printed with a raft and the last week the raft's have showed signs of warping in specific spots of the bed. I've so far been able to print around these spots but, it only helped a little bit.

Is there something I'm missing here?

>tldr: bad adhesion since nozzle change, can't figure out why
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>>1872959
Is it a nozzle that came with the printer? Post pics, might just be bad flow, temperature, bad leveling or warped bed, god forbid.
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>>1872970
Think I've figured out the issue. Extruder was leaking. Found it encased in a blob of PLA. I mustn't have tightened the nozzle properly when I've changed it.

Oh well, best making stupid mistakes early to learn from them.
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>>1871480
Control your ambient temp better. Print a tall something to test again. Z hop zhop zeeehoooop
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>>1871700
Yea Modix 1800mm machine...
>Your plastic parents would be taller than you
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>>1871700
make a hangprinter
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>>1873060
Jesus fuck Annon, you killed him
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>>1871809
Samefag op here
Anybody know?
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>>1873230
shouldnt be much difference unless you are burning out the motor windings. Not much changes in the world of steppers.
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I picked up an ender 3 and I've been fiddling with it for a few weeks now. I'm learning to use thinkercad and doing various small adjustments and test prints. Tomorrow I'm looking at changing my nozzle down to a 0.2 for printing wargaming terrain and model parts. I've shifted my print speed down and I expect to get okay results but I'm curious what I could do to improve them further.

I want to print a town for a display board and add on parts for gunpla. I know they will need sanding and possibly filler spray on the flatter surfaces and I'm okay with that. Just fishing for any tips I wouldn't. Naturally run across.

Pic is a print I did a few days ago to test filler primer and painted up.
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>>1870776
yes, actually. though you'll have to make it yourself as it's not going to be produced in for a good while.
https://youtu.be/i5L6CpD6nM8
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>>1871700
Is there a hang rope on thingyverse?
> print in place, easy assembly
> submit make
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>>1873312
can the hang printer do retracts? I've never seen it do moves without extruding
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kinda like this general design, think I'm gonna replicated it with 200x1000mm bed size
https://youtu.be/VXOHudgBwtM
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>>1872902
>In related things, what is /3DPG/ working on?
Nonsense
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>>1872902
catz
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>>1872189
I imagine a majority of the cost is in the tritium vials though no? I mean, I can't just pick those up at costco. With a little research, yes 25 - 60 bucks of that is in the vial itself. Congrats on saving yourself twenty bucks and having a shitty resolution 3d print instead.
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>>1873531
no they ship it with a shitty ass glow-in-the-dark tube, people complained about it.
>With a little research, yes 25 - 60 bucks of that is in the vial itself.
With more search you could have found they don't shup it with a tritium bar, retard
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>>1873393
>FLAK
If that thing doesn't shoot multiple darts in one go, I will be disappoint.
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>>1872109
You're part of a niche market. Shit will always be expensive for you, same as every other niche market
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>>1873555
So what?
I'd say good on him for using 3D-printing to get around that.
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New thread:
>>1873583
>>1873583
>>1873583
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>>1870932
this is unironically starting to look OK for once
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>>1872535
Yes, it'll be fine, there's not a lot in it, and it comes down to settings and filament more than anything. Most decent FDM printers are capable of similar results under the right conditions. The Ender is great for the money, it just lacks some of the fancy shit by default.
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>>1873552
>If that thing doesn't shoot multiple darts in one go, I will be disappoint.
You can swap out the ammo type to Rival Mags, Talon Mags, Sledgefire shells, Spring Thunder shells, or Trilogy shells.
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>>1872535
Start by removing the heavy ass glass bed
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>>1872308
I did a large Yoda thing, turned out pretty decent, I just sanded a little and used a bit of putty on a couple of bits, then airbrushed it using Vallejo acrylics. I used some random high build primer I had lying about (in a rattle can). Worked fine.
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>>1868439
Ignore other retards. Buy a single sheet of dense roof insulation. Put the insulation under one of the slabs. Throw the other slab in the trash. Printer on top.
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>>1873330
Fuck off Tom you whiny little bitch. Literally no one cares about your ultraboring review channel. Go and gargle Prusa/E3D balls.
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>>1869883
aren't you busy junking up /tg/?
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>>1869863
what cnc is that and how well does operate.
I'm looking for a small cnc to work with aluminum at a depth of at most 1 1/2 inches



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